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  1. #1
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    Best derailleur for Sunrace 11-40 9-speed cassette?

    Sunrace have new 11-40 9-speed cassettes, the CSM980 and the CSM990. I am considering going to a 1x9 (32 tooth chainring on 11-40 tooth cassette) drivetrain on my Specialized AWOL in the future using one of the new cassettes.

    The question is which derailleur would work on a 32t - 11-40t 9-speed drivetrain?

  2. #2
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    I reckon any long-cage dérailleur would work and probably most medium-cage ones as well.

    A long-cage dérailleur can deal with a triple up front and an 11-24 cassette no problem. You've got a 6T bigger gear at the back but no variation at the front at all. The tooth difference at the front could be 20T so you've got loads of capacity.

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    Thanks. It looks like a lot of people have used Wolftooth Roadlinks with MTB derailleurs when going 1x9. It probably depends on the derailleur hanger of the particular model of bike, but the roadlink/9-speed MTB derailler combo looks promising.

  4. #4
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    I think any long-cage will have the range you need. The only other question is clearing the biggest cog, which is where these hanger extender things come in? I assume you'll need one but I'd fit the dérailleur to the bike and try it first. You never know.

    I have a road bike that came with a 12-28 cassette and medium cage dérailleur. The max quoted cog size for the dérailleur was 32 I think, it was a while ago, but I put an 11-36 cassette on and it worked. I'm sure it would work better with the long cage version of the dérailleur but it does work with a cassette that is bigger than it's supposed to take.

  5. #5
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    Best derailleur for Sunrace 11-40 9-speed cassette?



    Just did this on my wifes Ariel but 8 speed. Put on a bash i had with a 30t ring i had in the parts bin.

    All i did was grind the shark fin part of the hanger till it fit the roadlink properly as it was a bit tall. Works well other than some big ratio jumps even she noticed but its fine for her.

    Im sure the narrow wides up to the task of keeping the chain on but the bash will make sure and keep grease off her pants and i used the reflector bracket as an inside chain keeper too.


    If you can put down the torque... you might fold the cogs over. Its a $35 cassette for a reason.
    Fatbike, XC bike, Gravel Bike....

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by solarplex View Post


    Just did this on my wifes Ariel but 8 speed. Put on a bash i had with a 30t ring i had in the parts bin.

    All i did was grind the shark fin part of the hanger till it fit the roadlink properly as it was a bit tall. Works well other than some big ratio jumps even she noticed but its fine for her.

    Im sure the narrow wides up to the task of keeping the chain on but the bash will make sure and keep grease off her pants and i used the reflector bracket as an inside chain keeper too.


    If you can put down the torque... you might fold the cogs over. Its a $35 cassette for a reason.
    Looks good.

    The cassettes are kinda cheap, but will be using them for paved riding mostly and I have been riding $26.00 12-36 tooth cassettes (they're the only ones I can find that have that range) that I haven't harmed too badly on my current 30t granny ring.

    I am thinking 32t up front with the 9-speed 11-40 out the back on my Specialized AWOL, which I ride loaded on pavement and double track/fire road type trails. I have a roadlink in the mail and am still debating derailleurs.

  7. #7
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    10 speed shimano SLX shadow+ will clear the 40t without any modifications, roadlinks, goatlinks and such. you can pair it with any 9 speed SRAM trigger/grip shifter. this way you can have a clutch on 9 speed cassette as well.

  8. #8
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    I was wondering about using a Shimano 10 speed RD like an SLX M7000. Is there a reason why you should pair it with a SRAM shifter instead of a Shimano shifter? Sorry, I'm kinda new to the whole 1x thing...

  9. #9
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    shimano 10 speed has very different cable pull ratio from shimano 9 speed, but sram 9 speed is close enough that it should work.

  10. #10
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    I actually knew that. I feel kinda dumb right now...

    Thanks for your patience, I appreciate it.

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    Try oldies, but goldies Sram X5, see this https://www.mtbiker.sk/forum/post1357516.html#p1357516

    11t
    Best derailleur for Sunrace 11-40 9-speed cassette?-dsc08764.jpg

    40t
    Best derailleur for Sunrace 11-40 9-speed cassette?-dsc08763.jpg

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by syl3 View Post
    10 speed shimano SLX shadow+ will clear the 40t without any modifications, roadlinks, goatlinks and such. you can pair it with any 9 speed SRAM trigger/grip shifter. this way you can have a clutch on 9 speed cassette as well.
    Can it work with a Sunrace 11-40t 8-speed cassette? Or will the 9 or 10-speed chain be too thin to work correctly for the wider spacers in the 8-speed cassette? In other words is it possible to go 1x8 with the Sunrace cassette or is it just not worth trying because of chain incompatibility with the front 1x chainring and chain?

    I think I figured it out ... Shimano m361 crankset 28 38 48, removable chainrings (remove 38 and 48 leaving 28). Then you have 1x8 with no compatibilty issues. Still inferior to 1x 10, 11, 12 but I don't care with this level of hardtail. I'm sure they have something similar for 9 speeds as posted by others above.
    Last edited by richj8990; 04-03-2018 at 06:46 PM.

  13. #13
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    OK after reading different opinions from buyers, sellers, etc., I decided to go to the source: the Shimano website. Interestingly they didn't have any information on Deore/XT 9-speed rear derailleurs; those were all 10- or 11-speed and anything selling online off the Shimano site saying 9-speed must be holdover stuff. In other words Shimano archived the older Deore 9-speed stuff, which I find curious because they still are advertising 5/6/7 speed Tourney rear derailleurs!!!

    Knowing this above (as in excluding Deore/XT for 9-speed), there are supposedly three different Shimano 9-speed rear derailleurs that in theory can handle either an 8- or 9-speed 11-40t cassette without a wolftooth/extender. All of these below have a max 36t low gear rating, but again, if you are in the first or only chainring it should be doable up to 40t.

    Just as a point of reference, my current Shimano Altus 8-speed long-cage RD, max cog of 34 can ALMOST but not quite hold the 40t granny gear of the Sunrace cassette. It can but I can see it's really straining. So adding a couple of max t's with a 9-speed RD below may make all the difference.

    I will purchase the Alivio (they are all around the same cheap price) and let you know how it goes. Now that I'm climbing a lot lately just for the sake of it, a 22/40 granny ratio does not seem so insane like it did in the past. I'm 22/34 granny right now (cannot use the first 40t gear due to this issue we are discussing), and thought I would be fine w/it, but there are times when I'm doing a long somewhat steep climb and just want to rest a bit w/o getting off the bike. Pace myself. 22/40 can do that. Take a break from the torque of 22/34 for a bit. Yes it sounds crazy, but on a longer climb even that 22/34 ratio can become a grind.

    Shimano Alivio RD-M4000 Shadow 9-speed $35 Amazon

    Shimano Acera RD-M3000 Shadow 9-Speed $34 Amazon

    Shimano Altus RD-M2000 Shadow 9-speed $27 Amazon
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  14. #14
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    Below is a link to a Devore Shadow 9-speed (RD-M92) as another potential option. I like them better thanAilvio, Deere is all metal. I ran them for years, but never anything larger than a 36t granny. I don’t recall the b-screw being far in on the 36t, but am not sure.
    https://www.artscyclery.com/Shimano_...SABEgLll_D_BwE

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    From what I see, Shimano's 11S mountain derailleurs have the same movement ratio as SRAM's 7, 8, and 9S derailleurs. 10S Shimano is close, but 11S is closer. Try the M7000 SLX model if you want a clutch.

    Or just swap for an 11S cassette and run 11S. Plenty of options there too for the same price. I've listed every cassette and Shimano derailleur in the last 20 years below.

    https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...D1DRbfS59EDrE/

  16. #16
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    I am going to go with a Sora derailleur in a makeshift 9 speed drivetrain. New Sunrace CSM 990 cassette, Sora rear derailleur, Deore 26-36 double (made from a 9-speed 26-36-48 trekking drivetrain), Alivio front derailleur and used XT 9-speed shifters.

  17. #17
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    So I went ahead with the Sora R3000 rear derailleur, shifted by an Alivio flat bar shifter. I was going to go 2x9, but it turns out that with the short chainstays of the Brand-X HT-01 and a Wolftooth Roadlink, I could make a 3x9 26-36-48 crankset play nicely together with an 11-40 9 speed Sunrace cassette.

    The triple crankset is somewhat unfashionable, but I'm a fairly unfashionable (agressively uncool) middle aged dad these days, so I'm not really all that concerned. At all. I love my new drivetrain.

    Best derailleur for Sunrace 11-40 9-speed cassette?-fauxtroll2.jpg

    Best derailleur for Sunrace 11-40 9-speed cassette?-fauxtroll3.jpg

  18. #18
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    Wow! That is some low gearage you've got goin' on there.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Pig View Post
    Wow! That is some low gearage you've got goin' on there.
    My aging knees need it! Plus, I live in Korea--South Korea--and the country is basically one big mountain range, so I built this up to let me ride more in the hills. I also have a Specialized AWOL with a 30-39-50 crankset and a 12-36 cassette, and the low gears just weren't cutting it. The AWOL will be for the river path network, until I use up the current road crankset and get a 22-32-44 triple on it.

  20. #20
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    26-40 is...low! In fact it's so low it's hard to see the point as you'd move forward quicker if you got off and walked! ;0)

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    Bad knees is the reason. My knees have to be treated gently and I don't want to stop riding, but my doctor advised me to go as low as possible in the gearing department. Not one to shy away from a challenge, I have done just that. But yeah, it's low alright.
    Last edited by PDKL45; 07-12-2018 at 05:13 AM.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by PDKL45 View Post
    Bad knees is the reason. My knees have to be treated gently and I don't want to stop riding...
    Good for you, don't give up. Keeping moving is the best thing you can do.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Pig View Post
    Good for you, don't give up. Keeping moving is the best thing you can do.
    Right, and they'll be fine if looked after properly. You have to be tough to get older.

    I have a couple more of those cassettes, so after the first 7,500-8,000 kms, when the first cassette is worn out, I am thinking I may try a 1x9 set up with a 30t chainring, giving me around 20-75 gear inches.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by PDKL45 View Post
    You have to be tough to get older.
    Tell me about it! The saying is true, youth is wasted on the young.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by PDKL45 View Post
    Bad knees is the reason. My knees have to be treated gently and I don't want to stop riding, but my doctor advised me to go as low as possible in the gearing department. Not one to shy away from a challenge, I have done just that. But yeah, it's low alright.
    Did you had a good bike fitting?
    I also had huge knee issues and I'm not even old.
    At some point it was so bad that I couldn't even walk without pain for a whole week.
    When I got my bike fitting they did know what I was talking about and fixed it for me.
    My problem was a too steep seat angle.
    When my cranks were pointing forward my knee was over the middle of the pedal axle.
    http://www.gesunde-radrouten.de/medi...lotmethode.jpg
    Your knee needs to be exactly over the pedal axle or sligthly behind it.
    I had to slide my saddle a lot backwards, but ever since than I never had knee issues again.
    The guys in this bike shop are amazing.
    They told me a lot of stuff about modern bike geometry and that almost all bike brands are not going for steep seat angles because of that.
    And I believe them.
    For me the perfect seat angle with 175mm cranks is around 72 degree.
    I know there are lots of people who want a steep seat angle.
    But for me thats just a knee destroying nightmare.
    I changed all of my other bikes to that setup.

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by OneTrustMan View Post
    My problem was a too steep seat angle.
    I'm very sensitive to this as well. I've never had a fitting but I can feel it as soon as I sit on a bike, it just feels wrong. Usually a lay-back seat-post is all it takes to sort it but I had a hard-tail once I couldn't fix. Hated that bike and didn't keep it long.

    Very good advice to look at bike fit. It makes a huge difference.

  27. #27
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    The new "shadow" technology nine speed derailleurs seem to work better on larger cogs than the old-style derailleurs. The specs say they're made for 36t but I know for certain they work well up to 40t. I suspect they would also work for 42t with the angle-adjuster B-tension screw all the way in. Also the cable routing on these "shadow" derailleurs is an enormous improvement over the old 180 degree rear loop especially if your cable goes down the driveside chainstay. Now the cable goes in straight from the front. With one of those ebay chinese hanger extension links I think the nine-speed "shadow" derailleurs will probably work up to 44t if there is such a cassette.

    Shimano Alivio M4000 Series and Acera M3000 Series
    https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/compo...erailleur.html

    Note the Alivio M4000, Acera M3000, Acera M2000 have plastic bodies and are lightweight. I guess the idea here since these new derailleurs don't stick out as far they aren't as prone to breakage.
    Last edited by esXso; 07-23-2018 at 08:25 AM.

  28. #28
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    I have a 9sp 11-36 cassette with a long cage Shimano Deore RD-M592-SGS Shadow derailleur.
    Not sure if that is a new or old shadow derailleur.
    It can take the 36T well, but this shadow derailleur really sucks.
    I never had a shittier shimano derailleur than that piece of crap.
    Even the cheaper non shadow ones are better than this.

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by OneTrustMan View Post
    Did you had a good bike fitting?
    Good point. I did, and I need a layback seatpost on the bike above, but my knee issues stem from other known causes, not least my weight.

    I run a Deore M592 on a 12-36 9 speed cassette with a 30-39-50 road triple and I really like it, it's been good to me.

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    hey guys, i'm building an old bike up again since my 'newer' old FSR was stolen ( Death to all #$*&!kin' bike thieves).

    i'm looking at trying a 3x front setup (24-34-46) with the sunrace 11-40 9 speed csm9000 (i think) cassette ( ridiculously out of fashion i kno, but it is what it is.... Post divorce / realignment of life's priorities budget) cant afford a new drivetrain much less a newer bike, and my stock pile of parts are in excellent shape if mostly 10+++ yrs old.... (rode a ton yrs ago used to be a regular in here WAY back... have boxes of parts still.) hadn't realized you could find 9 speed cassettes with 40t..(!?!) BITD i remember working to make custom 11/34 cassettes work by combining gears from different clusters.. these 48-50t -1x setups today are nuts lol...

    my concern is HOW weak (crappy?) are these sunrace cassettes...? i like to grind out climbs and use low gearing to stay in the saddle... but im a bit heavier than i used to be and i'm a li'l concerned about tweaking a rear gear on a climb...?

    The bike is a 20 yr old Max backbone FSR Elite Pro/Risse rear end/NOS 2008 36 talas RC2 & a 2017 fox float DPS Evolve rear shock + MS link,... Bike has been on a hook for at least 12 years since i last raced it at downieville...

    Almost done with restoration, new rear wheel and 11-40 cassette are installed but i havent even tried to run thru the gears yet in the stand.. looks like the Sram XO rr derailleur Mid cage i think will work ok, , i have a 'road link" on the way JIC.

    any guidance or tips ... ?


    Best derailleur for Sunrace 11-40 9-speed cassette?-fsr-rear-end.jpg

    Best derailleur for Sunrace 11-40 9-speed cassette?-1998-fsr-max-backbone-elite-pro.jpg
    Last edited by FSRChuck; 3 Weeks Ago at 05:12 PM.

  31. #31
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    If you've got a triple up front, what the heck do you want a 40 on the back for?!

    With you on the 'death to bike thieves' though ;0)

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    a - Why not...?


    b - i'm planning on dropping at least one of the 3 rings up front sooner or later... been so long since ive ridden this bike and general drive train tech has changed a lot in 8-years or so since i last had to think about it.... feels like i'm starting at 0 in several areas..

    still working out what combo (gear inches and cost to convert) will be best suited for me and this old skewl beast.

    Last time i was heavily involved in the scene,...the largest rear gear avail was maybe 36... i remember looking high and low for a 20t front granny when the standard was 24,... to get every last bit of low gear capability on the beast..



    Hi, i'm Ed, the 50+ yr old MTB newb with 25 years of riding experience! ;-)

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by FSRChuck View Post
    Why not...?
    Because your gearing will be so low it'll be hard to keep balance! Old people will say hello as they walk past you.

    With a 40 on the back, three rings is a waste of time. In fact two are pushing it. I don't even know if you'll get a 40 to work with two rings, anyone? That's a lot of chain to gather up. I suppose you will, depending on the gears.

    I'd either go X2 with 36 or X1 with the 40.

  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Pig View Post
    Because your gearing will be so low it'll be hard to keep balance! Old people will say hello as they walk past you.

    With a 40 on the back, three rings is a waste of time. In fact two are pushing it. I don't even know if you'll get a 40 to work with two rings, anyone? That's a lot of chain to gather up. I suppose you will, depending on the gears.

    I'd either go X2 with 36 or X1 with the 40.

    I thought 22/40 was going to be to hard to keep balance on, but it's actually fine. You do have to keep a certain cadence or you'll fall over, but it's not hard to do. Right now I'm doing the traditional 22/34 just to feel the difference, and there is a slight but noticeable difference. 95% of the time 22/34 (or 36 if you have 9/10 speed) is fine but that 5% up a steeper trail really helps with 22/40. It's completely doable. I don't think it would be a waste of time with a 3x front because some of us are on pavement to/from the trail and that extra range is nice. With a 3x, your total range will be between 6.9x and 7.3x depending on if you have 42t or 44t for the large ring.

    I plan on doing the 11-40t cassette with a 2x9 (really 8/9) setup that has 22/36 in front; range is still 6.0x which is awesome compared with most 1x setups. Yes, there are times when the trail has multiple fast up-and-down transitions that I wish I had 1x, but it's not a big deal either way. If you don't need that much climbing power, SRAM has 2x9 in a 26/39, so the 11-40t cassette paired with that in front would be essentially the same ratio as 22/34. But I think 22/36 is nicer, because you can always go back to an 11-34t cassette if the 11-40t cassette is having problems working with the rear derailleur and/or extender. With 26/39, going back to 11-34t would only give a 0.76 granny ratio and that's not cutting it for the hills that I do.
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  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by richj8990 View Post
    You do have to keep a certain cadence or you'll fall over..
    Made me chuckle ;0)

    I'm 24/36 and find that low enough for the steepest climbs. And I am not superhuman.

  36. #36
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    The bike I posted above is 3x9 with 11-40 t in the rear. The main thing for it to work is the Roadlink, but also the chainstay length. They need to be short to use an unmodified chain.
    Last edited by PDKL45; 2 Weeks Ago at 11:35 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by OneTrustMan View Post
    Did you had a good bike fitting?
    I also had huge knee issues and I'm not even old.
    At some point it was so bad that I couldn't even walk without pain for a whole week.
    When I got my bike fitting they did know what I was talking about and fixed it for me.
    My problem was a too steep seat angle.
    When my cranks were pointing forward my knee was over the middle of the pedal axle.
    http://www.gesunde-radrouten.de/medi...lotmethode.jpg
    Your knee needs to be exactly over the pedal axle or sligthly behind it.
    I had to slide my saddle a lot backwards, but ever since than I never had knee issues again.
    The guys in this bike shop are amazing.
    They told me a lot of stuff about modern bike geometry and that almost all bike brands are not going for steep seat angles because of that.
    And I believe them.
    For me the perfect seat angle with 175mm cranks is around 72 degree.
    I know there are lots of people who want a steep seat angle.
    But for me thats just a knee destroying nightmare.
    I changed all of my other bikes to that setup.
    Huh, very interesting. I suppose that is why a recumbent stationary bike feels a lot better on my knees than the Peloton/spinning type.

    Most FS bikes are going towards the 74-75+ degree SA lately.

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Pig View Post
    Made me chuckle ;0)

    I'm 24/36 and find that low enough for the steepest climbs. And I am not superhuman.

    24/36 is fine, that's equivalent to 22/34. But here it's the loose dirt that will get you way before running out of gearing. Just because a higher ratio is lower overall torque doesn't mean you will not spin the back tire, because it's also a function of how hard you stomp down on the pedals. Here, in dusty trail central, anything over a 0.70 ratio (over 22/32) is tough to get up a level 4 hill, almost impossible if you don't have plenty of traction in back. Because if you have a really high ratio, as you shift down below 0.70, even though the torque on paper goes up, you pedal lighter on the seat during the crawl, and that lowers the torque and avoids rear wheelspin. If you are instead in a granny gear of say, 22/30 or 24/32, you have to pedal harder, and sooner or later that will spin the back wheel on loose dirt and you stop. If I have 22/40 it's hard to spin the back wheel so I am able to stay on the seat up the hill. Also as a disclaimer I have a tube in back and it's around 25-26 psi; if and when I try tubeless again, it can hopefully go down to 20 psi, and maybe I won't have this problem as much.
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  39. #39
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    I'm looking hard at these conversions.

    Seller "JG Bike" on Amazon sells 8-speed and 9-speed cassettes with a derailleur hanger extender.

    The Alivio M4000 Shadow RD (probably) doesn't need an extender and unlike the older higher group versions it has a barrel adjuster at the cable stop. SIS mean you can use it 8 speed too.

  40. #40
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    348
    Sunrace are probably the best in 8 and 9 speed but there are many others now, often offered with those generic roadlink type extenders.

    The main thing is having a sufficiently long derailleur hanger to get the top jockey wheel of the Alivio derailleur below the 40t cog. If you have a very long derailleur hanger it might work, but on the bike I posted pictures of above, a woldtooth roadlink extender was essential.

    To avoid the drivetrain locking up in the large - large combination in 3x9, it is essential to have short chainstays. The drivetrain I posted above was operating right at the edge of the envelope and I would caution that a 3x9 with 11-40 cassette is not easy to make work. I am 100% certain it was the modern trail geometry chainstays (very short) that allowed an XT chain with 114 links work on the bike above.

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