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  1. #1
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    1x10 or 1x11 Drivetrain Bail Out Granny Gear Tip

    This "upgrade" to your 1x drivetrain system will allow you to bailout when you are exhausted or a long climb is up ahead.
    https://ridealongside.wordpress.com/...rain-bail-out/
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  2. #2
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    Reputation: J.B. Weld's Avatar
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    I don't get it, seems like a 'downgraded' 2x setup to me.

  3. #3
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    Typically a well setup gear ratio will include your bailout gear anyhow.
    Rimmer - "There's an old human saying - if you talk garbage, expect pain"

  4. #4
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    90% of the time I am riding in my 32T. This works great for me.

  5. #5
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    In 1x, your lowest gear should be chosen so that its there for when you're feeling bad, or going up the steepest hill your technique will allow.
    Rimmer - "There's an old human saying - if you talk garbage, expect pain"

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by J.B. Weld View Post
    I don't get it, seems like a 'downgraded' 2x setup to me.
    I agree 100%
    In my case (YMMV).
    I'm running a SRAM XG-1199 Cassette 10-42 with a SRAM XX1 Crank with a SRAM Direct Mount 34 tooth chain ring.
    I hardly use the 34 x 42 gear it's to low even on really steep climbs.
    Personally I think each rider needs to find what front chain ring suits them best for the range of gearing they need.
    ​​
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  7. #7
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    Reputation: Chinman's Avatar
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    On a converted 2x or 3x drivetrain can be a good choice as the OP has suggested. I recently converted my Fatboy to 1x10 from 2x10 with a 30T NW ring on the big 104 BCD ring. I have no problem with this gearing on dry trails. Once the snow flies, this may change and I wanted to retain the option to use a really low gear to tractor up hills in the snow, so I left the 22T small ring on. I may not need it, but it certainly doesn't hurt to have it just in case.

  8. #8
    Keep on Rockin...
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    Its called a "manual shift". Been using it for a while on my 1x10.

    I find it most useful on really long steep climbs so that I don't continuously grind off the 3 last cogs on my cassette.

  9. #9
    Here, diagonally!
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    When in Texas, I run a 34t up front. When making trips to the mountians I bolt on a 26t in the granny position and move it manually for the long climb up. Although on a recent trip to Washington I mostly just left it on the 26t and coasted on the downs.

    I could add a big cog to my 11-34 6-speed stack, but the 26t ring is in my parts bin and gets the job done.

  10. #10
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    I think I will finally have a true bailout gear with my 1x11, something that's only used rarely, when you're tired/sick/whatever, and going up some really steep terrain. I wasn't able to do it until the new 9-44t cassette came out. So it's a 2 part deal. The 9t allows me to drop from a 32t chainring to a 30t chainring and still have better top end than my X01 cassette and the 32t up front. The second part is the 44t in the back. While not as big of a change as the 30t up front, it's still noticeable. The two combined give a really low gear, equivalent and even better than some 2x setups. As it is, after sitting for a couple months I have had to use first gear way too much in the hills. Hopefully now it will be 2nd and 3rd gears at the same fitness levels with first gear reserved only at the end of the day if I decide to make another loop. Once my fitness gets back up there, 1st gear should be a true bailout gear and there's no manual shifting of the front chainring.
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  11. #11
    BOOM goes the dynamite!
    Reputation: noapathy's Avatar
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    Seems more like a plug for a blog than an actual post to me. This idea has been around for a REALLY long time.

  12. #12
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    I have one of those and an upper chainguide that can push the chain to the granny. Pretty high-tech, i'd say.
    "Things that are complex are not useful, Things that are useful are simple."
    Mikhail Kalashnikov

  13. #13
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    So really it is a 2x11? Just have to manually drop the chain on the smaller ring?

  14. #14
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    More like 1.5x11or10

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by AlexRandall View Post
    Typically a well setup gear ratio will include your bailout gear anyhow.
    Depending on your setup, not always possible... 1x10 with 11-36 you kind of have to pick low end OR top end.

    1x11 with 10-42 is a lot less of a compromise but it still is a compromise for some.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alias530 View Post
    Depending on your setup, not always possible... 1x10 with 11-36 you kind of have to pick low end OR top end.

    1x11 with 10-42 is a lot less of a compromise but it still is a compromise for some.
    I run a 1x10 with 11-36 and you hit the nail on the head Alias530.
    Most of my riding is in a long, 10 mile long canyon, two miles from my house, that has a lot of long flat fireroad sections in it. Most of the fun singletrack is found on the side canyons that drain into it and while some of the climbs are too steep to make, most of them are do-able, especially if you are willing to train with a 1X setup and not drop to an inner ring. I posted this as a way to give other riders an idea of what is possible when you know that you will have some long climbs (we have a big climb here in San Diego that has average grade of 8% over 11.1 miles with some parts being much steeper. With almost 4700 feet of climbing) and yet do not want to add a front derailleur or change cranksets. Maybe it is a well known trick, maybe its called manual shifting, maybe its not as great of a tip of the week for many of you, but it seems to be useful to many that I have heard from already. Thanks for the feedback, now get your bike, get outside, and ride on!
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  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by scottzg View Post
    I have one of those and an upper chainguide that can push the chain to the granny. Pretty high-tech, i'd say.
    Me too. Its an ingenious little device. It keeps my fingers clean and I can remotely "shift" on the fly with a nifty lever next to my left grip. No longer will I have to stop every time.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by the-one1 View Post
    Me too. Its an ingenious little device. It keeps my fingers clean and I can remotely "shift" on the fly with a nifty lever next to my left grip. No longer will I have to stop every time.
    I'm surprised this never caught on...

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by noapathy View Post
    Seems more like a plug for a blog than an actual post to me. This idea has been around for a REALLY long time.
    +1

    The blog is written as if this is some revelation... Sad.

  20. #20
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    i think riders should think first and feel if they can handle 1x. there are several variables to consider here, primarily where one rides and one's combination of strength and endurance.

    i mean, why would someone complicate a simple 1x setup if simplicity were to consider? if someone is to have 2 rings on the crank, i can't comprehend why the front shifter will be ditched in favor of 'manual' shifting? it seems though that a front derailleur and front shifter has never been invented when in fact most LBS's have them.

    sorry if this is quite sarcastic, but i hope you get what i'm trying to point out...

  21. #21
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    I wonder in 10 years if we'll still be riding 1x setups

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

  22. #22
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    Chinman, Miker J, and JACKL all had good examples of applications for using this method that proved useful to them. We don't have snow here in San Diego too often and while my fitness is pretty good for my 32t x 11-36t gearing, I am headed out on a bikepacking trip soon where snow is still on the ground and I am hoping to put the manual shift to the 22t into practice. There are a few climbs at the end of the day that would require me to walk with the extra weight on the bike as well. Thanks for all the replies! Even the sarcastic & snarky ones!

  23. #23
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    Aloha,

    Here where I live the hills are quite extreme. It's a mixed bag. Some people are 1x, some 2x. And 1 or 2 doing the "hand shift" method.

    In the end, it's what works best for you. I've spent hours playing with the numbers I needed when I went from 26" to 27.5 and had to come up with the new drivetrain for it. The ultimate question was can I go 1x or 2x vs. the 3x9 that I had on my 26" bike.

    In the end, no matter what I did, I couldn't get away from a 2x. I could shift the bike manually by hand like others do. I happen to take my bike away from Hawaii and have traveled to places like New Zealand, Canada and even Switzerland last year. I personally do not want to get off my bike when I get to a hill and need to shift one way or the other. Therefore, I carry the extra weight of the shifter and derailleur. Others feel it's a slight nuisance to get off and hand shift the bike. To each his/her own.

    And if you live in a place that a 1x can work, excellent.

  24. #24
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    I converted a 2x10 to a 1x10 set up ... and I have 2 Narrow Wide rings up front and no front der., a 30T and a 36T, I can change the front ring based on the kind of ride I am doing.. And I do use both..

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by RajunCajun44 View Post
    I converted a 2x10 to a 1x10 set up ... and I have 2 Narrow Wide rings up front and no front der., a 30T and a 36T, I can change the front ring based on the kind of ride I am doing.. And I do use both..
    I may need to do the same. I have been really wanting a 36t cog for my general riding and a 30t would be great for those longer days and/or loaded bag bikepacking days, without having to go all the way down to the 22t. Thanks for sharing RajunCajun44.
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