What's the best/cheapest way to go tubeless?- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    What's the best/cheapest way to go tubeless?

    I like the sound of dropping five pounds off my bike by switching to tubeless and ditching my maxxis downhill tubes (best tube ever, btw). I'm thinking of trying ghetto tubeless, but am wondering how much of a hassle it's going to be to do this? Do I need some sort of sealant like stan's? What are the performance benefits that you that have made the switch have noticed? I'm planning on running a 2.7 minion dhf front tire with a 2.5 highroller on the rear this season: would this be good setup for rocky conditions?

    Jeez I ask a lot of questions...
    I kinda wish my brakes actually worked, but I guess that just makes me faster, right?

  2. #2
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    Use a BMX tube and stans. It's better w/ an air compressor. And use LOTS AND LOTS of soapy water.

    From go-ride.com
    http://go-ride.com/ghetto_tubeless.htm

    Step 1. Take the custom rim strip (20" tube) and split it down the center of the outermost edge.

    Step 2. Place the rim strip on the rim with it hanging over the sides.

    Step 3. Mount one complete side of the tire, and 90% of the other side.

    Step 4. Add approx. 1 cup of sealant to the tire, and finish mounting the tire.

    Step 5. Make sure the rim strip is centered all the way around.

    Step 6. Rotate wheel in all directions to completely distribute the sealant.

    Step 7. Inflate the tire to approx. 50 psi. Check for leaks, and continue to rotate the wheel to keep the sealant moving around.

    Step 8. Remove excess rim strip material, leaving approx 5mm remaining (this way you may be able to re-use the rim strip next time).

    Step 9. Adjust psi as needed, re-check after about 1 hour to make sure tire is not losing air.
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  3. #3
    keystone addict
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    And how long will that last until it needs to have new sealant?
    I kinda wish my brakes actually worked, but I guess that just makes me faster, right?

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by fred.r
    Use a BMX tube and stans. It's better w/ an air compressor. And use LOTS AND LOTS of soapy water.

    From go-ride.com
    http://go-ride.com/ghetto_tubeless.htm

    Step 1. Take the custom rim strip (20" tube) and split it down the center of the outermost edge.

    Step 2. Place the rim strip on the rim with it hanging over the sides.

    Step 3. Mount one complete side of the tire, and 90% of the other side.

    Step 4. Add approx. 1 cup of sealant to the tire, and finish mounting the tire.

    Step 5. Make sure the rim strip is centered all the way around.

    Step 6. Rotate wheel in all directions to completely distribute the sealant.

    Step 7. Inflate the tire to approx. 50 psi. Check for leaks, and continue to rotate the wheel to keep the sealant moving around.

    Step 8. Remove excess rim strip material, leaving approx 5mm remaining (this way you may be able to re-use the rim strip next time).

    Step 9. Adjust psi as needed, re-check after about 1 hour to make sure tire is not losing air.

    or use a 20 inch tube instead of the rim strips (use Maxxis rim strips cheaper then the stans rim strips(major rip off)and butterfly it.....also for a tire 2.5 you should use 2 scoops of the Stans (highly recommended) not one scoop (a scoop = the little cup that comes with the purchase of the stans)

    after installing ride the bike around for 5 minutes to spread the stans goo around.

    as far as your tires you choose they are good but they lose air and burb a little (still run them though....they are a good tire.....michelins are better when running tubeless Michelin 24 A.T. (2.5's are really good)
    Last edited by SHIVER ME TIMBERS; 02-21-2007 at 07:13 PM.
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  5. #5
    Old No. 7
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    Quote Originally Posted by mothahucker
    And how long will that last until it needs to have new sealant?
    I think you're supposed to every 3-4 months, but it'll say on the stans bottle. I've had the same bottle for a long time.
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  6. #6
    The walrus and carpenter
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    I've had my 2.7" Big Earls on Outlaws set up like that since September and have not even added air in the entire time.

  7. #7
    Old No. 7
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    Quote Originally Posted by DeepSouthBuilder
    I've had my 2.7" Big Earls on Outlaws set up like that since September and have not even added air in the entire time.
    As wonderful a thing tubeless is, when you do have a problem, it sucks. I've had to put tubes in a few times I flatted, and recently had to replace a tire to keep the tubeless set up because of a small tear in the bead of an otherwise fine tire. I haven't bothered going back to tubeless w/ the new tires though, too lazy.
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  8. #8
    The walrus and carpenter
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    Quote Originally Posted by fred.r
    As wonderful a thing tubeless is, when you do have a problem, it sucks. I've had to put tubes in a few times I flatted, and recently had to replace a tire to keep the tubeless set up because of a small tear in the bead of an otherwise fine tire. I haven't bothered going back to tubeless w/ the new tires though, too lazy.
    Yeah but you have WAY less problems. If you're that worried about it just carry a light-weight spare tube. I got LOTS of pinch flats before. I haven't gotten a single flat since. Not to mention I dropped more than 2 pounds and have way more traction.

  9. #9
    Old No. 7
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    Quote Originally Posted by DeepSouthBuilder
    Yeah but you have WAY less problems. If you're that worried about it just carry a light-weight spare tube. I got LOTS of pinch flats before. I haven't gotten a single flat since. Not to mention I dropped more than 2 pounds and have way more traction.
    I agree w/ you, much less problems, I was just warning the OP that if, and when, a problem does occur, it can be way more of a hassle than a simple tube change, less frequent, but will happen.
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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by fred.r
    I think you're supposed to every 3-4 months, but it'll say on the stans bottle. I've had the same bottle for a long time.
    longer for moist climates
    the trick is ENJOYING YOUR LIFE EACH DAY, don't waste them away wishing for better days

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by fred.r
    I agree w/ you, much less problems, I was just warning the OP that if, and when, a problem does occur, it can be way more of a hassle than a simple tube change, less frequent, but will happen.
    I have never had a problem but I use the Michelins mostly.....they have strong sidewalls
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  12. #12
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    how much does the stan's sealant usually run for?

    This sounds like a no-brainer. Definately gonna do it.
    I kinda wish my brakes actually worked, but I guess that just makes me faster, right?

  13. #13
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    I just went tubeless by installing a set of Michelin DH Comp 32s on my Outlaws with Maxxis rim strips. With some soapy sponge action, the tires went on without levers in no time and I was able to fill them both up with a mediocre floor pump. Greatest bang for the buck invention I can think of in recent history those Maxxis rim strips. Outlaws take the 26DH2s and Go-Ride only had about 30 left last week when I called. They have the last remaining stock in the country as far as my understanding goes (Maxxis has discontinued the strips). As I wait for the snow to melt here in CO, they have been sitting without the slightest leak of air.

    Oh yeah, $20 to go tubeless and shave 12 oz. of rotating weight = SWEET.

  14. #14
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    i was thinking about doing this too. if i use Stanís Standard/UST Tubeless System will any rim work? Right now i have just sun single track rims... I dont want to upgrade rims til i have the money in the summer. Also does anyone know if i can run prest valves on these rims?
    Prison is hard, everything else is easy

  15. #15
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    I'm running ghetto tubeless with my Sun MTX rims and Maxxis Holy Roller tires and it's great. You shouldn't need any special parts...just a couple BMX tubes and some sealant.

    I think I paid approx. $16 for about a litre of the stans stuff which lasts 1-2 seasons for me. The stans bottle I bought came with a little filler nozzle so I put the tire fully on the rim on both sides and then I take the core out of the shrader (?) valve, squirt in the stans and then replace the core and inflate. Then you just shake it around until the hissing stops and go for a short casual ride to really coat everything with sealant.

    After 1 season of riding I didn't have a issue. I used to get about 5 flats/season on average and last season I got none. Once I partially tore my tire bead off the rim (sketchy drop landing) and so I jammed a bunch of dirt/grass/sticks in there which hissed for a couple seconds but I jumped off the bike, rotated the tire so the leak was at the bottom and then the stans solution sealed it right away. I went from 25psi to about 15psi but plenty for the trip home where I dug all the crap out.

  16. #16
    The walrus and carpenter
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    Check out the article in the tech section of nsmb

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