Stripped pedal threads, what to do??- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
    Me hates pinchflat
    Reputation: 545cu4ch's Avatar
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    Stripped pedal threads, what to do??

    Hi
    Yesterday I stripped the crank/pedal thread on my crappy FSA alpha drive right crank. Im really pissed off that it happened, since right now I am out of money and I already have a weaksauced rim which I have to replace I dont know what happened, maybe it was the new pedals, though maybe it was my fault...
    Anyways, I was wondering which would be the cheapest solution. I thought in going with a "tornero" (not really sure how to say it in english ...machine shop??) so he could put a "patch" and rethread it. However, I was told that not many torneros can do it, since it is not a common measurement and they sometimes dont have the tools. I also thought in maybe swapping the even crappier truvativ isoflow cranks and bb from my other bike, though I dont know if the bb shell is the same size.
    The last solution I came up with is to put some JB weld on it. The pedal is stuck in the crank, so I thought that I jb weld it and it would be fine for some time. Would this be a good idea?
    I know, I will eventually have to buy a new crank (or set of cranks?). Im pretty bummed this happened....specially with such a tight budget
    Quote Originally Posted by sriracha
    "jesus would huck it"
    Quote Originally Posted by FoShizzle
    i have found the 1.5" headtubes to be slightly larger in diameter than 1 1/8", plus or minus

  2. #2
    Just roll it......
    Reputation: ebxtreme's Avatar
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    You're not going to be able to warranty that.....you basically crossthreaded your pedal into the crankarm which happens if you don't get the threads started straight when you start to put your pedals on.

    First attempt. Take your pedal and thread it in from the back (inside) of the crank to see if you can straighten the threads from that side. This might work, but it might not work itself all the way throught the crank.

    If that doesn't work, take your bike (or just your crank) to a good LBS and they can put a steel pedal insert in there that will replace the original threads . You shouldn't be charged that much for the work (and a good shop should have the parts available). You might want to call around to ask them if they have the inserts and see what they'd charge. I just did this on an old set of cranks while in France and they charged me $25 euros for the work and I got it back the next morning and it held up to lots of abuse on that trip with no issues.

    Cheers,
    EBX

  3. #3
    Me hates pinchflat
    Reputation: 545cu4ch's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ebxtreme
    First attempt. Take your pedal and thread it in from the back (inside) of the crank to see if you can straighten the threads from that side. This might work, but it might not work itself all the way throught the crank.EBX
    The thing is my pedal is stuck. When I try to remove it, it just turns and turns and nothing happens. It also wiggles a lot....
    Quote Originally Posted by sriracha
    "jesus would huck it"
    Quote Originally Posted by FoShizzle
    i have found the 1.5" headtubes to be slightly larger in diameter than 1 1/8", plus or minus

  4. #4
    banned
    Reputation: JimmyJaymz's Avatar
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    ...good conversation piece though.

  5. #5
    No Fear!
    Reputation: Imperial's Avatar
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    I know how to fix it

  6. #6
    not really a noob
    Reputation: hardcore newbie's Avatar
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    get new pedals
    I HATE WORK, WORK IS BAD, WORK = NO BIKE, NO BIKE = NO GOOD

  7. #7
    not really a noob
    Reputation: hardcore newbie's Avatar
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    or ask a lbs to re-thread the crank
    I HATE WORK, WORK IS BAD, WORK = NO BIKE, NO BIKE = NO GOOD

  8. #8
    Me hates pinchflat
    Reputation: 545cu4ch's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimmyJaymz
    ...good conversation piece though.
    ...huh?
    Quote Originally Posted by sriracha
    "jesus would huck it"
    Quote Originally Posted by FoShizzle
    i have found the 1.5" headtubes to be slightly larger in diameter than 1 1/8", plus or minus

  9. #9
    Disco-Superfly
    Reputation: Jake_HT's Avatar
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    get a new bike
    Jake
    Yeti 303 WC 25th

    Quote Originally Posted by Dwight Moody
    Didn't you read the sticker on that shock? It said not to do whatever you did.

  10. #10
    Me hates pinchflat
    Reputation: 545cu4ch's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by [email protected]
    get a new bike
    Wow....thanks, I never thought of that
    Quote Originally Posted by sriracha
    "jesus would huck it"
    Quote Originally Posted by FoShizzle
    i have found the 1.5" headtubes to be slightly larger in diameter than 1 1/8", plus or minus

  11. #11
    Disco-Superfly
    Reputation: Jake_HT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 545cu4ch
    Wow....thanks, I never thought of that
    yep
    Jake
    Yeti 303 WC 25th

    Quote Originally Posted by Dwight Moody
    Didn't you read the sticker on that shock? It said not to do whatever you did.

  12. #12
    7am Backcountry ;- )
    Reputation: capoz77's Avatar
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    I was very nearly in the same situation as you this morning

    Went to my local shop and bought some DMR v12 flats for my new Kona as it came with SPD pedals. In such a rush to get out and give the bike a spin ended up attempting to put the left pedal on the right crank arm

    Got the thread halfway in and thought im sure I shouldnt have to use this much force on the spanner. Rung the bikeshop and he said they have huge long pedal tools as sometimes they can be very hard to get in.

    Unscrewed the pedal from half way and the thread looked a bit messy in the crank arm.

    OH SH**!

    Put some oil on crank arm thread to ease it in, went to put some more grease on pedal and seen the L symbol! PHEW, glad i noticed that! Upon trying to fit the correct pedal it screwed in fine, and glided along the threads with ease - the final tighen with the spanner was satisfying - came so close to writing off my new Race Face crank arms and having to strip it apart, let alone missing out on the maiden voyage and being stuck in all weekend

  13. #13
    Glad to Be Alive
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    Quote Originally Posted by 545cu4ch
    The thing is my pedal is stuck. When I try to remove it, it just turns and turns and nothing happens. It also wiggles a lot....
    just let the LBS deal with it
    the trick is ENJOYING YOUR LIFE EACH DAY, don't waste them away wishing for better days

  14. #14
    Me hates pinchflat
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    Quote Originally Posted by capoz77
    I was very nearly in the same situation as you this morning

    Went to my local shop and bought some DMR v12 flats for my new Kona as it came with SPD pedals. In such a rush to get out and give the bike a spin ended up attempting to put the left pedal on the right crank arm

    Got the thread halfway in and thought im sure I shouldnt have to use this much force on the spanner. Rung the bikeshop and he said they have huge long pedal tools as sometimes they can be very hard to get in.

    Unscrewed the pedal from half way and the thread looked a bit messy in the crank arm.

    OH SH**!

    Put some oil on crank arm thread to ease it in, went to put some more grease on pedal and seen the L symbol! PHEW, glad i noticed that! Upon trying to fit the correct pedal it screwed in fine, and glided along the threads with ease - the final tighen with the spanner was satisfying - came so close to writing off my new Race Face crank arms and having to strip it apart, let alone missing out on the maiden voyage and being stuck in all weekend
    I was not so lucky..... I noticed that I had stripped the treads when I lifted the bike by the pedal, which wiggled like mad but wouldnt come out
    Quote Originally Posted by sriracha
    "jesus would huck it"
    Quote Originally Posted by FoShizzle
    i have found the 1.5" headtubes to be slightly larger in diameter than 1 1/8", plus or minus

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