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  1. #1
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    Spank Spike EVO - tubeless?

    I did some searching, but didn't see anything. Anyone set spike evo's up tubeless yet? I just built up one with a minion dhf Friday. Super tight fit with the 20" split tube, and it worked but doesn't hold air over a couple nights. Was wondering if I could get by without the split tube, or if maybe I'd better off with a stan's rimstrip. Maybe I should've just stuck with a combo I know works - sun, Alex (azonic), and wtb have all been flawless with ghetto tubeless minions...
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  2. #2
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    I've been wondering the same thing. I have a pair of Spank Spike EVO wheels that I'd like to try out as tubeless, but am not sure the best way to go. Anyone have any suggestions?

  3. #3
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    1st question:
    did you guys use stans to seal little holes???

    FYI

    I have found with Maxxis that tires take up to a month for a full seal...this is where the stans starts sticking to all edges.....sidenote...first time you put in stans make sure you shake bottle up like crazy before putting liquid in....and then spin tires after inflating
    the trick is ENJOYING YOUR LIFE EACH DAY, don't waste them away wishing for better days

  4. #4
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    I am currently running a set of Subrosas tubeless.
    Had minion EXO's on them until Sunday.. Switched to Butchers..
    Using Stans yellow tape and sealant...No strips.
    So far no problems but its not really rocky where I ride.....
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  5. #5
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    Thanks for the responses guys. dbabuster just responded to my post in an email with the following
    My Spank Spike set up tubeless with a DHF Minion 2.5 has been flawless. I initially installed a ghetto 20" tube (split at the seam) but punctured it while putting the tire on, so after a week of it not keeping pressure, I pulled it all apart and covered the spoke holes with a couple layers of electrical tape, and threw in a Mavic tubeless presta valve I had laying around, and the required amount of Stan's. I rode a handful of regular dh days on it, and then raced the Wintpark All Mountain Enduro (5 mostly dh stages over 2 days) - all without a burp or adding any more air. I didn't get out on it much after that, but it's still holding air just fine. So far I am impressed with the rim and how it works tubeless.
    Sounds like this rim works great with just sealing the spoke holes well and some Stan's.

  6. #6
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    I've had the Spike rims on my Nomad for close to 2 yrs and have had no problems running tubeless. I do have the Stans dh kit and I run Bontrager Super Juice. The only problem I've had with the rim are a couple of dents. Also, I noticed the other day there are small cracks around the spoke holes in the rear rim. All in all, awesome rims.

  7. #7
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    I run Subrosas with Minion 2.7s tubeless. I just taped the spoke holes with 2 layers of duct tape. The bike hasn't been touched in 2 months and they're still at about 20psi.
    Keep the Country country.

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    Hi guys...Mike from Spank here. I've run Spike 35AL EVO and Spike Race28 rims with the super thin "Fratelli Tape" conversion tape we offer and no sealant successfully. American Classic also has a thin, pliable tubeless tape that works well.

    Key point was mounting the tires (which are a tight fit due to the Oohbah profile of the rim) without scarring the tape. Even a light touch from tire levers can make minute holes that leak air slowly but are hard to find. That took me two tries on the big Spike 35AL rims.

    Its also important that your tubeless tape is malleable enough to get into all the grooves in the inner tube well of the rim, and you take a moment to smooth it out in there before mounting your tires.

    The wider rims certainly are better suited to tubeless (Tech Tuesday), but this is true for all brands. That said...currently my 28mm wide Spike Race28's have held air without any gunk for over a month now and no burp issues yet.

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    Hi Mike, That's very useful info. I had heard of Spank's tubeless tape before, but don't see where I can get it. There seems to be no mention of it on your website and "Fratelli Tape" in Google isn't showing anything. Is it available from a US distributor? Does it come in different widths? Please let me know what I should tell the bike shop to order and from where.

    I assume you're using UST tubeless tires? I'll have to use some sealant in my setup because I ride in the desert where it's impossible to avoid cactus needle punctures.

  10. #10
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    Try duct tape. I've been using it on 6 wheels for 2 years now and no problems. 2 layers cut to the appropriate width.
    Keep the Country country.

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    Hi Wheel-addict,
    You are spot on that I used UST tires in my personal tests, and most of those test riders reporting to us on tubeless results are too. Also right on that the terrain here isn't too bad for punctures, so sealant isn't such an issue here as it would be in Southern USA.

    With regards to the Fratelli Tape I mentioned, it will be hitting the shelves in shops this spring from Spank. That doesn't help you much today, which is why I mentioned the American Classic variety, which is available now. There are several super thin pliable versions out there, that we suggest over thicker, heavier solutions. BTI in USA has picked up on the tape from Spank and should have it, listed under Fratelli Tape from Spank Industries, as of Feb.

    Please feel free to post your reports here or on our Facebook Group page (Welcome to Facebook - Log In, Sign Up or Learn More). We are always keen to hear any issues and investigate ways to improve.

  12. #12
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    Mike-Spank Ind

    Hi.
    You wrote that the rim easily Spank remade by UST.
    Tire on the rim Spank altered by UST dressed with a hand pump? Or install tires need air to give a powerful impetus to the compressor, floor pump?
    I am Russian. In order to communicate with you using the google translated. I offer my apologies for the error in the text.

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    Hi zg2tn9 (nice handle),
    Hmm...I think I catch your drift. I have been running tests here with this set up:
    *Spank EVO rims
    *UST Tires from various brands
    *Tubeless conversion tape
    *Tubeless conversion valves (35mm length)
    *Foot pump
    *round tipped levers

    I have been able with all cases to use a foot pump to get the tires locked in place. I haven't tried with a small hand pump, but will soon.

    In some cases it is necessary to tighten the lock ring on the valve, then inflate to about 10-15psi, then lock down the lock rim on the valve one more time to create a perfect seal.

    Thats about it.

  14. #14
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    Hey Mike! I have some spike 35's ready to be laced up and am excited to get them on and get on them!

    I'll be running tubeless. I switched to these after busting multiple DT600 rims. I'm looking forward to the wider profile at the same weight and hoping the Spank's don't ding up so easy. The only point that worries me is the lack of eyelets. Trying to get the most life out of the new rims so I have a few related questions:

    Can I get away with aluminum nipples without any eyelets on the rim or will it gall?

    Should I throw some antiseize in there to help the nipple rim interface?

    What tension do you recommend for that rim?

    Thanks for your replies on the thread and for the great products.

  15. #15
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    Hi Squiby,
    Good points.
    We have successfully used alloy nipples with the EVO rims. Most the problems people have are from damaging the nipples during assembly or truing. Not from riding.

    In fact the load distribution on the nipple (at spoke bed interface) on a Spank EVO rim is actually better than with an eyelet. Part of the Oohbah patented profile is a spoke bed that affords 360 degree contact with the nipple. It allows for higher spoke pull through tests (when coupled with high end alloys),

    That said, we do not drill oversized spoke holes for oversized alloy nipples. Personally when using alloy nipples I've had better luck with the oversized ones, but I'm a bit of a monkey hands admittedly.

    We do suggest a small dab of antiseize/locktite on the spoke thread. Not on the spoke bed of the rim. This is simply because the rims are so stiff, that at times the spokes stretch out more quickly than with other rims, and once loose they can start to vibe out. If you prevent this, normally it simply takes a retensioning of your spokes once you notice any looseness.

    Spoke tension is a tricky game. We have team pro wheelbuilders that spec 60kgf to 140kgf range, and others that swear by a 110kgf max. Of course there is always a range, as you need to apply dish to the wheel. To be honest, the more I work with wheelbuilders, the more I understand that each combination of hub, rim, spoke, and nipple results in a different perfect SOP (Standard operating procedure) for that specific wheelset build.

  16. #16
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    My hack style requires the odd rim adjustment so I was worried about damaging the nipple during truing. I guess I'll play it safe and go with the brass.

    I use thread paste on the spoke. I thought the antiseize at the bed might help stop the nipple from sticking in the rim. Is it a bad idea to throw some antiseize on the bed?

    I know what you mean on the different wheel components making for a different build. I'm learning on the wheel building and found my latest build lasted longer with a lower spoke tension. I think that is because the DTrims are a little more prone to denting so the previous stiffer build made for a harder point of impact on the rim. The last build did end up with a flat spot and out of true but less dings and it lasted longer. I think I was right around 100kgf so I'll try that again.

    Thanks for the info.

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    Try that Squiby, but don't be afraid of 110-120kgf...it works for us.

    The antiseize on the spoke bed is something I haven't tried.

  18. #18
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    I'm just putting together an order to convert my Spank Spike EVO 35 rims to tubeless. Question: what tubeless valve stems should I buy? I'm only finding Presta stems for sale. Will those work with the larger Shrader hole? Please let me know what worked. I'm planning to get Stan's 25mm rim tape, Stan's sealant, Kenda Negaval 2.35" UST tires, but not sure about the valve stems to buy.

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    Hi Wheel Addict, this is a problem we are addressing, but not a serious one. The Presta Valves that are available on the market now are suitable for use with A/V (Schraeder) holes. However you need to be quite careful making your access hole in the tape, and with locking down the lock ring on the valve. Normally when I convert Spike or Subrosa, I tighten the lock ring once with pliers, then inflate to around 15 psi, then lock it down again. This helps the rubber plug on the valve deform into the larger hole and fill it with a tight seal.

    This season we will be revising the whole EVO line of rims to use Presta Valve holes.

  20. #20
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    Presta valves

    You can buy presta lock rings that are shouldered for schrader rims.
    Thats what i'm using on my Subrosas.
    I also just cut the presta valves out of some old tubes to use.
    You can't remove the needle valve for inflation like on the other ones but so far I haven't had any problems.
    I have an air compressor which helps..
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  21. #21
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    @Mike-Spank: I'm going with the Stan's Presta valves. Hopefully they won't slip through
    @DucJ: Any idea where you can get presta lock rings shouldered for schrader rims? I don't see them at universalcycle.com and can't find anything like it on Google. Perhaps I'm searching for the wrong thing.

    The parts are now ordered, I'll post back to this thread once I've succeded or failed.

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    You can cut them out of schwalbe schraeder tubes.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by weedkilla1 View Post
    You can cut them out of schwalbe schraeder tubes.
    Nice to know. That's a lot cheaper than cutting up a Stan's strip.
    Keep the Country country.

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    Quote Originally Posted by weedkilla1 View Post
    You can cut them out of schwalbe schraeder tubes.
    OR Continentals

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    Or if they've been drilled out by a hack use valves from moto tubes.

  26. #26
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    Dont know about pre made kits, but i run my spike with gettho tubless (the one with the cut 20" inner tube) and im happy with it for the past 10 months, no slips or stuff like that
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  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by katsooba View Post
    Dont know about pre made kits, but i run my spike with gettho tubless (the one with the cut 20" inner tube) and im happy with it for the past 10 months, no slips or stuff like that
    What tire are you running?

  28. #28
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    i had the minion 2.5 dhf super tacky [not tubeless]
    now i have the ONZA IBEX DH 2.4.
    i run about 26 psi upfront with these tires and my ghetto tubeless, i weigh about 170 and im not the most forgiving rider on the bike :P
    yet, it holds.
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    Thanks Katsooba...into the database!

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by wheel-addict View Post
    @Mike-Spank: I'm going with the Stan's Presta valves. Hopefully they won't slip through
    @DucJ: Any idea where you can get presta lock rings shouldered for schrader rims? I don't see them at universalcycle.com and can't find anything like it on Google. Perhaps I'm searching for the wrong thing.

    The parts are now ordered, I'll post back to this thread once I've succeded or failed.
    I got my adapters from my LBS.
    They had them in stock which kind of surprised me..
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  31. #31
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    np, btw, its not hard to mount the tire with the ghetto tubeless, i didnt have to "fight" the wheel to put it on
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    Hi All!
    A pair Questons on Spike:
    1. can I use schwalbe TLR tires tubeless? Or I need true UST only? What min. tyre diameter can I use with Spike? In my interess are Rubber queens and hans dampf. Do they fit with no problems? Can I pump them 3 bar for example?
    2. These nice logos on rims are stickers? can I remove them?

  33. #33
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    I just picked up a set of Race 28 wheels coming from Revolution 32's both were run tubeless. I was surprised how easily I got the tires to seat on the wheels using Stan's rim tape, valve stems, and sealant.

    With my Revolution wheels I always had to use a compressor. It was the only downside to tubeless since I don't bring a compressor to races or rides for that matter.

    I was able to seat and fill the tires first try with my bike pump. 3-4 days later they are still full. This is using Maxxis DHF/Highroller combo. Even the DHF which at first glance was no way going to seat as it wasn't even flush with the outside rim edge. They are definitely harder to get the bead over the rim edge - I had to use tire irons for that.

  34. #34
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    How do you like the Race 28 wheels? I was thinking of getting a pair for my DH bike. I'm also super impressed with how well Spank Spike 35 rims work as tubeless. I was also able to get my Kenda Negaval and Maxxis UST tires to inflate with just a floor pump. After 3 months, I've not burped any air even after taking some pretty hard hits. Stan's tape and presta UST valves worked perfectly.

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    They are brand new so I can't say much about them yet. Tubeless is great on them. They look really cool. Seem well made. You also can't beat that price.

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by erok81 View Post
    They are brand new so I can't say much about them yet. Tubeless is great on them. They look really cool. Seem well made. You also can't beat that price.
    So you used DHF/Highroller Tubeless tires not wire bead?

    I'm about to build some Spikes up Tubeless and was wondering which tire bead would seal best on the Spank rim.

    EDIT, Nevermind. I tried the DHF UST tire with stans tape. Sealed and seated real sweet. Much easier than my FR600's.
    Last edited by squiby; 04-21-2012 at 03:36 AM.

  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike-Spank Ind View Post
    OR Continentals
    Hi Mike,

    I'm looking to pick up a pair of the SPIKE RACE 28 Wheelset from JensonUSA. I just wanted to confirm that i'll be ok running a 10-speed cassette on the rear hub. also i understand a 10mm Thru Axle Adapter Kit Available Separately...what do those go for?

    thanks!
    chris

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by ocguy2004 View Post
    Hi Mike,

    I'm looking to pick up a pair of the SPIKE RACE 28 Wheelset from JensonUSA. I just wanted to confirm that i'll be ok running a 10-speed cassette on the rear hub. also i understand a 10mm Thru Axle Adapter Kit Available Separately...what do those go for?

    thanks!
    chris
    Hey Chris...the Race28's come in 12x135 or 12x150 standards. You can buy what is called a 10x135 adapter kit, but that is a standard QR type...not a thru axle type. What you need to do if you need a 10mm thru is buy a 12mm to 10mm step down bolt on axle. They are offered by many brands I believe. We are working on testing one here, but our test process takes a lot of time. 9/10speed cassettes are fine.

  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike-Spank Ind View Post
    Hey Chris...the Race28's come in 12x135 or 12x150 standards. You can buy what is called a 10x135 adapter kit, but that is a standard QR type...not a thru axle type. What you need to do if you need a 10mm thru is buy a 12mm to 10mm step down bolt on axle. They are offered by many brands I believe. We are working on testing one here, but our test process takes a lot of time. 9/10speed cassettes are fine.
    thanks for the reply. looking forward to giving these wheels a run. i'll look for the step down kit. thanks again!

  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike-Spank Ind View Post
    Hey Chris...the Race28's come in 12x135 or 12x150 standards. You can buy what is called a 10x135 adapter kit, but that is a standard QR type...not a thru axle type. What you need to do if you need a 10mm thru is buy a 12mm to 10mm step down bolt on axle. They are offered by many brands I believe. We are working on testing one here, but our test process takes a lot of time. 9/10speed cassettes are fine.
    hi mike.

    ordered the wheels and they are on their way. wondering if the rear hub is convertible to a DT Swiss RWS Thru bolt axles/skewer rather than the bolt-on axle.

    thanks,chris

  41. #41
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    No, the DT RWS is 10mm. That hub is 12mm. The step down axle is the only way to make it work with your frame. I've only seen steel 12/10mm step down axles. Is there an alloy one?
    Keep the Country country.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Lelandjt View Post
    No, the DT RWS is 10mm. That hub is 12mm. The step down axle is the only way to make it work with your frame. I've only seen steel 12/10mm step down axles. Is there an alloy one?
    thought there might be a way to convert. my other wheelset (forte xenduro) has an axle, what ever it is, inserted in the hub and uses a 10mm RWS type QR setup. thought i might be able to use the same with these...if not i guess i just use the standard QR stepdown adaptor...was hoping not to use the skewer.

    Last edited by ocguy2004; 06-17-2012 at 07:28 AM.

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    Azonic and Atomlab both make one.

  44. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike-Spank Ind View Post
    Azonic and Atomlab both make one.
    mike, wheelset arrived and i tried putting my shimano 10sp cassette on and it doesn't have a snug fit...what's with the funky hub body?

  45. #45
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    I've seen other hubs (AmClassic) that need a thin steel spacer behind the cassette to be snug. Most shops will have one around.
    Keep the Country country.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Lelandjt View Post
    I've seen other hubs (AmClassic) that need a thin steel spacer behind the cassette to be snug. Most shops will have one around.
    it's not that the cassette will not tighten, onto the hub, the splines (if thats the correct term) do not line up properly, so as i the spin the cassette there is some play. there is not a spline for each notch in the cassette.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ocguy2004 View Post
    it's not that the cassette will not tighten, onto the hub, the splines (if thats the correct term) do not line up properly, so as i the spin the cassette there is some play. there is not a spline for each notch in the cassette.
    Hi OCguy...I'm confused, we have never heard of this issue before from thousands of wheels. The reason for the strange splines on the freehub body, is it is an SLS freehub, made from a scandium alloyed steel and any unnecessary splines have been removed by CNC to save weight. Those remaining are plenty strong to take the forces from the cassette. It is fairly normal in weight optimized freehub bodies. Please can you email me at [email protected] and we'll get to the bottom of it together as quicly as possible. Lets get those wheels spinning!!!

  48. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike-Spank Ind View Post
    Hi OCguy...I'm confused, we have never heard of this issue before from thousands of wheels. The reason for the strange splines on the freehub body, is it is an SLS freehub, made from a scandium alloyed steel and any unnecessary splines have been removed by CNC to save weight. Those remaining are plenty strong to take the forces from the cassette. It is fairly normal in weight optimized freehub bodies. Please can you email me at [email protected] and we'll get to the bottom of it together as quicly as possible. Lets get those wheels spinning!!!
    thanks for the reply mike and thanks for the explaination of the hub body. 1st time i saw one like that. i'll take a short video of the issue and email it to you so you can see the "play" i'm referring to. thanks again,

    Chris

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    In Italy we have a producer that makes a QR to adapt 12mm thru axle hub on QR frame...

    I cannot post link since i like more read yhan write so i've few post here, however the producer is "protone components" and the device is called "Sganci rapidi Q_TASK" "Sganci QR 12 mm Ridotti".

    they ship directly from the site, or you can find on ebay, or at the italian online shop gd store

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    Quote Originally Posted by ocguy2004 View Post
    it's not that the cassette will not tighten, onto the hub, the splines (if thats the correct term) do not line up properly, so as i the spin the cassette there is some play. there is not a spline for each notch in the cassette.
    Mine was kind of like that too. I can't remember exactly as it's been a while, but I do remember the cassette not fitting nicely. I remember that because it was so weird fitting, I went back and put the cassette on my old wheel to see if it was normal. It fit nicely on the old wheel but seemed super loose/sloppy on the new one.

    I wanted to ride so I threw it together anyway. I haven't noticed it since and it hasn't been an issue either. Has just as much or maybe even a little less play then my old wheelset.

    They are also still ruling tubeless. Couldn't be happier with my wheelset. Still perfectly straight after three races and months of DH riding.

  51. #51
    mtbr member
    Reputation: dytrdr5's Avatar
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    Mar 2006
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    96
    This shouldn't be an issue, on the spank website it states that the spike race 28 wheelset ships with both 135x12 and 135xqr adapter.

  52. #52
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    The 135xQR converts the 12mm thru hub to a 5mm skewer type QR hub.

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