Setting up a older DH frame for freeride - some parts questions- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Setting up a older DH frame for freeride - some parts questions

    I've got a 2001 Specialized FSR team DH that I want to setup for med-heavy freeriding. It's currently setup for DH with a heavy fork (superstar) and DH parts, about 45 lb. I stopped riding DH years ago, but I'd like to get out on this bike more, so I want to set it up to be reasonable to trail ride with. I live near boston, so this would be for riding lynn and vietnam mostly, places where you can justify riding a 6"+ bike. The frame is adjustable from 6.5" to 7.6" travel with a head angle in the 65 to 68 deg range, with a fairly long wheelbase. I'm looking at replacing a few things -

    Fork: Was looking at the '05 66 VF, but it's just as long as the current fork in 150mm mode, and less than 3 lbs lighter. The '06 66 SL looks stuper rad, but pricy, and I don't want to spend big bucks on this bike, plus I'm worried the air fork wouldn't mesh with the coil rear. However, it would give a stiff 1700mm, and be 4+ lb lighter, and the right length. Worth it? The Manitou Travis 150mm seems like my best bet, about $400 on ebay. Coils, 6 lb, 34mm stanchons. Is it a good match to this DH frame??

    Cranks: Need new cranks and to get rid of the MRP. Was looking at the Saint cranks with the 22/32/bash - $150 on ebay, which seems killer. I like the design of the crank, should be stiff/strong, and it's not too heavy. There is no provision to put a front derailleur on the bike - how hard is it to rig something up like that? I guess I could modify a e-type derailleur and use some sort of cable stop. I'm not sure if that's needed either, I think I could ride it with a 32 only, no prob. What's a nice, super basic and light chainguide? Just something that goes on the BB cup, and works sort of like a derailleur cage?

    I have lighter tires to put on and am already riding tubeless. Wheels and brakes are ok for now. I need a longer seatpost and lighter saddle. Might go to a lighter stem and bar, but they're already not too heavy. Bike is 8-speed right now, 11-30, but something like a 11-34 9-speed would be nice if I keep it single in front. I'd like to get it down to around 35-38 lb.

    What say you?

    Thx.

  2. #2
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    EH??? No idea huh.

  3. #3
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    I'll give my input

    I'm not really up to speed on the longer travel, single crowns but the 66vf is a waste of money. The vf is not good at all. I bet you could find an '05 66rc for a good price though. You should also look into the Fox Van 36. That would be a great fork to have as well.

    As for the cranks. The saint is a great crank and if you can get it for 150 I wouldn't pass it up.

    If you are already running tubeless most of your weight savings will cost you a good chunk of change. Here are options for lighter weight parts. Titanium spring for the rear shock. This could save close to or more than 1/2 pound. Look into an SDG saddle/post combo. What about your stem and bars. Are they more DH oriented or trail/fr? If you are running flat pedals you could go to A-frame magnesiums. The other thing I can think of is your hubs. Like I said before most of these will be more expensive upgrades but could save the weight you need them to.

    Hope some of this will help. If not better luck with someone else.

  4. #4
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    The only thing I might add is that I run my bullit as a 9-speed (single ring in front) and never miss having the extra gears of course, it depends on what you will be climbing. I like the reliability of not having a front der. FYI: my bike is about 35-36 lbs w/ DH tires and tubes.

  5. #5
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    Cool, thanks for helping out guys. More info:

    Wheels are hadley DH, 36H with sun rhyno XL, 4 cross, 14/15, all black. I'll have to run them until the rear rim gives out, it's already bent up a bit. Already have a rebuild in mind for them to take off over 1/2 lb for the pair - DT 5.1 rims, revolution spokes, 2 cross with all the spoke heads on the inside (yes it's odd, but I know it will be light and stiff). Tires are michelen 2.5 DH, forget the model, but I recall them weighing around 1300g, so going to thinner casing, kevlar beaded tires will help alot - I have a few kicking around to go on the bike in the 800g range.

    Stem, bars, and seat are all moderate DH stuff, I have a 25"x1" rise bar to put on if need be, can get a lighter stem (that's still stiff/strong), and will probably use the seat off my XC bike. Need a post too, just something basic. Brakes are Hope O2, which are ok, but I could stand to get new rotors for them.

    Back to the tough questions though:

    Still can't figure out what to do for a chainguide. I'm looking for the right set of those saint cranks on ebay. I think I can ride a 32T with at 11-30 cassette around here, it's pretty flat and the climbs are short - I've ridden the bike plenty wiht the 42T on there now. Anyway, there is no ISCG screw hole on the frame so any chainguide has to be mounted to the BB cup only. Just looking for something light, simple, and fairly effective, doesn't have to be DH quality, but should work well.......any ideas?

    On the fork, I think all the '05 66's are out, they are just too tall, and I want to lower the front end by about an inch. That leaves the Travis 150mm, Fox Van 36r, and the '06 66 (either the rc2x or SL). The Travis comes in at the best price and reasonable weight, with coil springs - but IS IT ENOUGH FORK?!?! ARG! The bigger 170mm forks with their 35 and 36mm stanchons seem like they would be a better match to the frame, but they're expensive, and might be overkill for what I'm doing with the bike overall? Keep in mind there's a 10 lb, 8" travel inverted fork on there now, so anything is going to be much easier to handle. Eh?

  6. #6
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    As for the chain guide. If it is just a guide you are looking for try the E13 LG1 or the STS w/ bashgaurd. The Box guide from truvativ would work well. They should all work e-type. You could also use an MRP LRP (long range patrol). It is just a lower pully.

    Still can't help with the fork. Sorry. Try posting in the lets talk about shocks forum.

  7. #7
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    if it was me...then I would ride it the way it is.......this allows time to make sure if you still keep DH'ing
    the trick is ENJOYING YOUR LIFE EACH DAY, don't waste them away wishing for better days

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by SHIVER ME TIMBERS
    ...makes reply without even knowing the topic of discussion....


  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by .WestCoastHucker.
    yo...he is just getting back into it......he shouldn't go all out buying new stuff until he is sure he wants to keep on riding Lycra boy.........my side of the hill 3 o'clock
    the trick is ENJOYING YOUR LIFE EACH DAY, don't waste them away wishing for better days

  10. #10
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    Yah....I've been mountain biking since the early 90's, mostly technical XC trail riding (on a light XC bike). I got into DH for a couple seasons back in '00-'01, but pretty much stopped riding after that and got into modifying cars. I've ridden a little XC since then, but I've been pretty out of the sport. I sold my car last fall, and I need to get back into slaying it on a mountain bike, I've had a great ski season and want to transition into riding again. I could build up a light freeride/trail bike, but my buddies think they are limited by their 5" bikes at lynn and vietnam, so since I have this DH bike already, I can just modfiy it for heavy freeride and make good use of it. If I'm going to go out and trail ride/xc without jumps and drops, I like doing it on the light hardtail I already have. Though, it would be nice to have a lighter 5"-6" bike to do everything on - I have a foes frame frame I've been sitting on that I could do that with, but I like the specialized much better and the foes is too big, will sell off the foes. I probably won't race expert DH again, or any DH...just a couple trips to the resorts sometime.

  11. #11
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    Well, I did a bit more hunting around and decided on the '06 66 SL. Seems like I can't go wrong with this folk. Feels like a coil fork, stiff chassis, adjustable travel, low A-C length, real 5.6 lb weight (damn that's light). They're $700 new on ebay, but I can wait a few weeks to see if a deal pops up. I think the travis 150 would be too much of a compromise, in travel and beef, while the 66 sl would be spot on, and lighter and more tunable. The 66 sl should feel just as good or better than my stratos overall, and be over 4 lb lighter. Wow.

    Thinking about a Gamut chainguide too, they're the lightest and seem to work for people.

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