rock shox pike? worthless or good?- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
    monkey's throw poo
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    rock shox pike? worthless or good?

    any one rode the new pikes yet, good fork, worthless? which model is the best for you $,
    fork will be going on an azonic steelhead.
    two six is bet-ta

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2inthehole
    any one rode the new pikes yet, good fork, worthless? which model is the best for you $,
    fork will be going on an azonic steelhead.
    I hear there flexy.

    -TS
    Fayetteville, AR and N.W.A RePrEsEnT

  3. #3
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    no matter how good or bad they are they will stop working in no time . Get some bombers z1 or 66

  4. #4
    monkey's throw poo
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    need~

    Quote Originally Posted by inspecter horse
    no matter how good or bad they are they will stop working in no time . Get some bombers z1 or 66
    well i need something that'll run 100mm for urban riding and has a 20mm through axle, any other ideas? i would like something adjustable so i can pop the travel up for some bigger hits...
    two six is bet-ta

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by inspecter horse
    no matter how good or bad they are they will stop working in no time . Get some bombers z1 or 66
    You my friend, are in an idiot.

    -TS
    Fayetteville, AR and N.W.A RePrEsEnT

  6. #6
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    am i am i realy thats why i have had two pair of rock shox break and need LOTS of work while i lashed on a set of bombers and havent had to go near them and they feel way better .
    Maybe they have sorted there forks out now im not sure but i would stay away
    Last edited by inspecter horse; 12-30-2004 at 02:25 PM.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by inspecter horse
    am i am i realy thats why i have had to pair of rock shox break and need LOTS of work while i lashed on a set of bombers and havent had to go near them and they feel way better .
    Maybe they have sorted there forks out now im not sure but i would stay away
    Wow; complete sentences and periods please. Oh and what kind of "Rock Shox" did you have?

    -TS
    Fayetteville, AR and N.W.A RePrEsEnT

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheSherpa
    Wow; complete sentences and periods please. Oh and what kind of "Rock Shox" did you have?

    -TS
    sorry, I like the "to pair" comment.

  9. #9
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    haha that guys my hero. Anyway.....I think Manitou makes a Sherman Jumper in 100mm, 20TA....and it should be much stiffer than the Pike.
    Quote Originally Posted by bulC
    freeriding ain't safe. sooner or later you will hurt or kill yourself.yer spokes aint' gonna make any difference less'n you get yer johnson caught in them

  10. #10
    Chinky on a Stinky
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    firefly +

  11. #11
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    A feck off i had pyslo or something and duke both crap . If your just doing urban its hard to beat a dirt jumper


  12. #12
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    My bad.....Stance Static, the jumper only comes in 80mm.
    Quote Originally Posted by bulC
    freeriding ain't safe. sooner or later you will hurt or kill yourself.yer spokes aint' gonna make any difference less'n you get yer johnson caught in them

  13. #13
    monkey's throw poo
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    what about?

    Quote Originally Posted by Chikity China
    firefly +
    what about the Manitou Stance Static 100mm?
    two six is bet-ta

  14. #14
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    Bad thing about the DJ is that its up to what now....6 1/2 lbs?
    Quote Originally Posted by bulC
    freeriding ain't safe. sooner or later you will hurt or kill yourself.yer spokes aint' gonna make any difference less'n you get yer johnson caught in them

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2inthehole
    what about the Manitou Stance Static 100mm?
    well he said he wanted something with like 100mm travel that can be turned up for the big hits, if u want a cheap one, then stance flow will do pretty good as well

  16. #16
    monkey's throw poo
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    i would

    Quote Originally Posted by Chikity China
    well he said he wanted something with like 100mm travel that can be turned up for the big hits, if u want a cheap one, then stance flow will do pretty good as well
    i would like adjustable travel, but its not important, im looking for something lighter, i had a marz DJ1 and didnt like it because it weighed almost more than the frame, plus im looking for try some other brands, im a marzocchi guy, but im trying to broaden my horizans (or something like that????)
    just looking for something that wont always break like the boxxer or a pyslo...

    so im between the stance static or the pike race....
    two six is bet-ta

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2inthehole
    i would like adjustable travel, but its not important, im looking for something lighter, i had a marz DJ1 and didnt like it because it weighed almost more than the frame, plus im looking for try some other brands, im a marzocchi guy, but im trying to broaden my horizans (or something like that????)
    just looking for something that wont always break like the boxxer or a pyslo...

    so im between the stance static or the pike race....
    Get a Pike. No doubt.

    -TS
    Fayetteville, AR and N.W.A RePrEsEnT

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by inspecter horse
    A feck off i had pyslo or something and duke both crap . If your just doing urban its hard to beat a dirt jumper

    I haven't had any problems with my psylo on the urban scene. However, if I get the P.2 as I would like to, it will be equipped with the DJ.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheSherpa
    Get a Pike. No doubt.

    -TS
    yeah. second that.

    For $327 the PIKE is cheap enough that if it does turn out to be a bad fork you can always try something else.

    I have not heard of a single problem with the PIKE as far as design and manufacturing go. If there was a weakness, I'm sure at least some 250 lb rough rider would have been on here complaining about it by now.

    I'm still going to take the rockshox logo off of mine. I'll get my tires slashed out here in Marzocchi country (everyone rides Marz here) if they found out I converted. I think I'll put a SRAM logo on it instead.

    That's really all the fork is. It isn't a RS in the crappy sense of the word. I've read that the PIKE was designed from the bottom up by new people, not the typical plastic masters of RS past.

  20. #20
    M070R-M0U7H FR3NCHI3
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    PIKE's are HOT and I want one BAD!!!! I just got a save up a bit and I will HAVE one!! I rode one at Sea Otter last year and was pretty impressed. The Maxle system is awesome and the stiffness or the 20mm front is nice.

  21. #21
    monkey's throw poo
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    i think

    Quote Originally Posted by BudhaGoodha
    yeah. second that.

    For $327 the PIKE is cheap enough that if it does turn out to be a bad fork you can always try something else.

    I have not heard of a single problem with the PIKE as far as design and manufacturing go. If there was a weakness, I'm sure at least some 250 lb rough rider would have been on here complaining about it by now.

    I'm still going to take the rockshox logo off of mine. I'll get my tires slashed out here in Marzocchi country (everyone rides Marz here) if they found out I converted. I think I'll put a SRAM logo on it instead.

    That's really all the fork is. It isn't a RS in the crappy sense of the word. I've read that the PIKE was designed from the bottom up by new people, not the typical plastic masters of RS past.
    i think a pike is what i'll get (the race) i havent heard one bad thing, exc for the guy on the top....rock shox in the past 2 years have come out with some good things, the reba which i belive is the best XC fork on the market, Marz are great forks, and i love them, but they're heavy, (i own 4) so i think they're turning around and starting to make good product, now if they could make a sweet dual crown!...
    thanks for all your guy'z help for making my choice!....
    two six is bet-ta

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by BudhaGoodha
    yeah. second that.

    For $327 the PIKE is cheap enough that if it does turn out to be a bad fork you can always try something else.

    I have not heard of a single problem with the PIKE as far as design and manufacturing go. If there was a weakness, I'm sure at least some 250 lb rough rider would have been on here complaining about it by now.

    I'm still going to take the rockshox logo off of mine. I'll get my tires slashed out here in Marzocchi country (everyone rides Marz here) if they found out I converted. I think I'll put a SRAM logo on it instead.

    That's really all the fork is. It isn't a RS in the crappy sense of the word. I've read that the PIKE was designed from the bottom up by new people, not the typical plastic masters of RS past.

    Actually, the Pike has very cool swiss-cheese looking plastic internals.

    -TS
    Fayetteville, AR and N.W.A RePrEsEnT

  23. #23
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    get a pike

    i have one of the first ones out, the top of the line with pop-loc and all. been nothing but perfect since i got it. running on a 4-6" adjustable frame, so it is a great match. I am 220lbs and am not easy on parts. spent 5+ days at mammoth on the fork really giving it a workout over the summer, including the superD at the nat champs. highly recommend it, love it.

  24. #24
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    my homeboy jake (roaming oregon) has one and swears by it. it felt pretty stiff to me but i can't vouch for it's durability, it still remains to be seen.....


  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by inspecter horse
    i lashed on a set of bombers
    Yes, you can tell he is a smart one when he calls them "Bombers"....
    Jake
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dwight Moody
    Didn't you read the sticker on that shock? It said not to do whatever you did.

  26. #26
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    Is it true that Manitou has recalled alot of the stance forks? I was going to get a Static for my imperial in 80mm, but I decided on a Jumper instead. It's about almost twice the price but I think it will be worth it. Later.

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by m88tow
    Is it true that Manitou has recalled alot of the stance forks? I was going to get a Static for my imperial in 80mm, but I decided on a Jumper instead. It's about almost twice the price but I think it will be worth it. Later.
    Yea they did. I think they also recalled the Jumpers.

    -TS
    Fayetteville, AR and N.W.A RePrEsEnT

  28. #28
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    I've ridden the Pike and it is a suprisingly good trail bike fork. It seemed plenty stiff and the travel range covers an important amount of ground. There will be folks who will bag on this fork simply because it is from Rock Shox, but keep in mind that it is the first generation of forks from the SRAM oversight of Rock Shox, and so far it seems like a change for the better.
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  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by .WestCoastHucker.
    my homeboy jake (roaming oregon) has one and swears by it. it felt pretty stiff to me but i can't vouch for it's durability, it still remains to be seen.....
    I wouldn't say I swear by it... But then I don't really swear about any fork out there... I've ridden all the forks talked about on here except for the Stance. My first choice would be the Sherman Jumper. After that it's whatever fork I can use until I case a landing and bend the steerer...

    It seems there are some "haters" spouting about stuff they have no clue about in this here thread. Somebody needs to use some discretion befor they make an accusation regarding the stiffness or quality of the Pike fork.

    WCH- are you available to dig or what? The dirt piles are just waiting for someone with some quality packing/lip shaping skills...
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  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2inthehole
    any one rode the new pikes yet, good fork, worthless? which model is the best for you $,
    fork will be going on an azonic steelhead.
    I've been on a team now for a few months and am very happy with it. Been replying to questions about it in the shock forum. I've been bottoming it pretty hard on landings lately, but I don't do anything where I should need the steel steerer, I don't use the travel adjust or flood gate and stuff much either, probably would have been fine with one of the cheaper models, except they are reasonably priced anyway.

    Plenty of features to make it a stiff fork, lots of overlap of the crown to stanchions, the arch is beefy, etc. Looks to me like they have really turned things around and are headed in the right direction. I'll let everyone know the moment it gives me any trouble. Luckily I don't have a bad taste in my mouth from previous rock shox experiences, I had a mag 21 more than 10 years ago, I saw it the other day and it is a mess. We've got an old GT with a mag 21 that still works good. Used a Judy one year and it was okay. My GF ran a few sids for awhile with no problems.

    Mostly I'd been a marz guy with some time on a vanilla. Problem now is marz didn't have the ideal fork for me, I'm over the Qr20, kept losing parts. Will probably start running a z1FR2 130mm, when they arrive, as I'd prefer the true TA.

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roaming Oregon
    I wouldn't say I swear by it... But then I don't really swear about any fork out there... I've ridden all the forks talked about on here except for the Stance. My first choice would be the Sherman Jumper. After that it's whatever fork I can use until I case a landing and bend the steerer...

    It seems there are some "haters" spouting about stuff they have no clue about in this here thread. Somebody needs to use some discretion befor they make an accusation regarding the stiffness or quality of the Pike fork.

    WCH- are you available to dig or what? The dirt piles are just waiting for someone with some quality packing/lip shaping skills...
    Saaaweet Jesus Maria that dirts looks gorgeous!!!!!

    Juuuuust waiting for some sculpting and than , wow, is that on some private land near you ?

    Maybe I should try and bring my HT the next time I'm down in Santa Monica and schedule a day off?

    Hmmm?

  32. #32
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    I've owned rock shox before and they're a nightmare to deal with. Adjustability is one thing, but when you screw up your fork swapping the oil, then we got a problem. No its not cause I'm a idiot....it's just cause Rock Shox are made....differently.

    The Pike doesn't exactly look very FR/Djish. If you DJ, FR, or even Urban, get a Zocchi. Once you go Zocchi, you never go back.

    I would reccomend the DJ series for what you want to do. Stiff as hell (I ride a DJ), perfect compression, and tough and not a mechanical nightmare.
    Northstar 2008 Riding Crew

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by pdirt
    Saaaweet Jesus Maria that dirts looks gorgeous!!!!!

    Juuuuust waiting for some sculpting and than , wow, is that on some private land near you ?

    Maybe I should try and bring my HT the next time I'm down in Santa Monica and schedule a day off?

    Hmmm?
    It's been raining.

    um- yeah someone owns the land...

    yes. Just be ready to be blindfolded

  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by BudhaGoodha
    I have not heard of a single problem with the PIKE as far as design and manufacturing go. If there was a weakness, I'm sure at least some 250 lb rough rider would have been on here complaining about it by now.
    That would be me, and no complaints so far. I was even able to run the stock setup that was too soft with heavy gate lockout. Now with the proper spring its great! Dont be stuck in the past. The pike is a good fork, and MAXLE is bad ass. By far better than the QR system of any other fork......

  35. #35
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    Go with the Pike,I have the SL model and it works smooth and the fork delivers a precise steering response.For the pricing of the fork you canīt go wrong.I would a take a Pike anytime over a Sherman Stance with their crappy fluidflow damping and steelstanchions or the lower end Zokes.
    My 2 cent
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  36. #36
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    Sorry about that post i was drunk.

    I'll get my tires slashed out here in Marzocchi country (everyone rides Marz here) if they found out I converted
    Its the same hear . I just orderd a gemini and am afraid im going to get abused because of the fork . Im also afraid the fork wont have that lovely butter smooth feel of the marz

  37. #37
    WWT
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    Inspector Horse--You're Right

    I have to agree with Inspector Horse on this one. Marzocchi or Manitou would be a better choice for a freeride, dirt jump, or urban fork. Rock Shox's forks tend to feel pretty plush, but have a tendency to blow through seals on a regular basis and have "beer can" thin sliders; which can crack or puncture fairly easy.

    BTW, Kerry why would you call Inspector an idiot? If you want to ride a Boxxer or another Rock Shox product that's fine, but don't call someone an idiot who disagrees with you. My personal expirence with Rock Shox has been terrible. I had one Rock Shox World Cup Boxxer that lasted fewer than two months before it needed a complete rebuild...I had oil everywhere!

    Rock Shox suck!

  38. #38
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    I am a 220lb rider on a pike for about a month now- I had a Z-1, but have really grown to like the pike. The Z-1 had a better feel to it as far as sensitivity and dampening, but properly set up, the pike comes close. I don't experience any flex with the pike and I DJ regularly, so that part is good. As for warranty and customer service and such, Manitou is definitely the easiest to work with, but Marzocchi is definitely the most difficult- they won't even send directions out on how to swap springs out of it. I know of some problems with the older Psylos, butt the pike is a completely different fork. Build quality has definitely jumped up since SRAM took over, and the worst thing I have experienced so far has been some of the grease under the adjustment knobs coming out. Other than that, the fork has been solid, the maxle-thing is easier to deal with than a traditional through-axle, and the price is right. There are no other forks under $500 with through axles and the same feature set.

  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by BudhaGoodha
    yeah. second that.

    For $327 the PIKE is cheap enough that if it does turn out to be a bad fork you can always try something else.

    I have not heard of a single problem with the PIKE as far as design and manufacturing go. If there was a weakness, I'm sure at least some 250 lb rough rider would have been on here complaining about it by now.

    I'm still going to take the rockshox logo off of mine. I'll get my tires slashed out here in Marzocchi country (everyone rides Marz here) if they found out I converted. I think I'll put a SRAM logo on it instead.

    That's really all the fork is. It isn't a RS in the crappy sense of the word. I've read that the PIKE was designed from the bottom up by new people, not the typical plastic masters of RS past.
    I hear the Maxle is really slick but I also hear the internals are simply Psylo internals. Maybe the Reba is a better bet.

    I was thinking about the Pike because I wanted to lower my front end for jumping but I simply dialed my Sherman down to 110 and put dual 24's on it and man, its spot on now!!! The Sherman ar 130 with a 26 up front is plenty of travel for trail and light FR so I think Im sticking with the Manitou for now.
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  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by namaSSte
    I hear the Maxle is really slick but I also hear the internals are simply Psylo internals. Maybe the Reba is a better bet.
    Nope. Pikes have the new Motion Control damping too.

    -TS
    Fayetteville, AR and N.W.A RePrEsEnT

  41. #41
    WWT
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    Dankiller

    I've actually heard that Rock Shox's forks have improved quite a bit over the last year. The World Cup I had was an '03 and was nothing but a headache. However, from what I understand is that the new models have been fixed internally--no need for the black box update. Sadly, my one bad expirence turned me off on Rock Shox, although I must admit when my Boxxer wasn't leaking I really liked the way it felt...

  42. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheSherpa
    Wow; complete sentences and periods please. Oh and what kind of "Rock Shox" did you have?
    -TS
    Take it easy Sherpa, your grammar in post #2 is deplorable.
    You don't have much room to comment on someone else's.

    Quote Originally Posted by TheSherpa
    I hear there flexy.
    -TS

  43. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by Padre
    Take it easy Sherpa, your grammar in post #2 is deplorable.
    You don't have much room to comment on someone else's.

    At least mine is easily read. Take a joke/constructive criticism.

    -TS
    Fayetteville, AR and N.W.A RePrEsEnT

  44. #44
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    re-read the original question

    Quote Originally Posted by WWT
    I have to agree with Inspector Horse on this one. Marzocchi or Manitou would be a better choice for a freeride, dirt jump, or urban fork. Rock Shox's forks tend to feel pretty plush, but have a tendency to blow through seals on a regular basis and have "beer can" thin sliders; which can crack or puncture fairly easy. Rock Shox suck!
    He didn't ask about the history of Rockshox, he asked about the new Pike. Did you get to see a cross section of the Pike's sliders to know how thin they are? Your history lesson is just a biased opinion of the company, not a review of the fork. I agree with Sherpa on this one - anyone who answers a specific question with a blanket, "this company sucks" is an idiot, or at least does a good job of representing themselves as one.

    And yes Raptordude, everyone was waiting on pins and needles to hear which fork you think looks the most FR/DJish. Thanks for that.
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  45. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roaming Oregon
    It's been raining.

    um- yeah someone owns the land...

    yes. Just be ready to be blindfolded
    Awesome.. prolly Feb or March ...

    shall I bring my own blindfold or are those included in the admission price?

    ...and what is the admission price? 12 pack of what?

    ?

  46. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roaming Oregon
    It's been raining.

    um- yeah someone owns the land...

    yes. Just be ready to be blindfolded
    um hum....I liked to be blindfolded...did I just say that???
    the trick is ENJOYING YOUR LIFE EACH DAY, don't waste them away wishing for better days

  47. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by pdirt
    Awesome.. prolly Feb or March ...

    shall I bring my own blindfold or are those included in the admission price?

    ...and what is the admission price? 12 pack of what?

    ?
    Stella Artois
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  48. #48
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    back to the post...

    Can't go wrong with Marzochi products
    the trick is ENJOYING YOUR LIFE EACH DAY, don't waste them away wishing for better days

  49. #49
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    THE NEW FOX 36 there decision made 110-150 mm

  50. #50
    Uhhhhh...
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    Quote Originally Posted by inspecter horse
    THE NEW FOX 36 there decision made 110-150 mm
    You can also buy about 3 Pikes for the price of one.

    -TS
    Fayetteville, AR and N.W.A RePrEsEnT

  51. #51
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    but you can only fit one on the bike?

  52. #52
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    Get a Marzocchi 66 or Z1 Freeride. Much stronger and better performance.

  53. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by pdirt
    Awesome.. prolly Feb or March ...

    shall I bring my own blindfold or are those included in the admission price?

    ...and what is the admission price? 12 pack of what?

    ?
    cool.

    no admission

    I'm sure you can figure out how to reach me when you are coming down...

  54. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by SHIVER ME TIMBERS
    um hum....I liked to be blindfolded...did I just say that???
    you gotta show up first...

  55. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roaming Oregon
    cool.

    no admission

    I'm sure you can figure out how to reach me when you are coming down...
    Yes, sir...

    Sweet.

  56. #56
    Te mortuo heres tibi sim?
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    Quote Originally Posted by NorcoRider
    Get a Marzocchi 66 or Z1 Freeride. Much stronger and better performance.
    you know this for fact? you've ridden all three forks?

    sure, the new 66 or Z-1 are likely stronger, they weigh a whole sh#tload more.......better performance for what? depending on what this guy wants to do with the fork, that may or may not be true. random suggestion for you: use your brain before you type random spew.

    uh, maybe the guy wants a bit lighter fork? maybe he wants it for a general trail bike, and isn't "going huge" on the thing? did you read the part aobut the guy wanting something a bit lighter? duh, it's a "trailbike" fork, not a DJ fork. it'll probably be fine, if you are decently smooth. if you're a hack, and case stuff all the time, it'll probably break no more or less than most other 5# forks.

    better performance? debatable. again, it all depends on what you want to do with the fork. i've got a pike team on my hardtail now. ahem. i like it MORE then the 04 Z-1 FR that it replaced. it's only a little lighter, but feels stiffer. the damping feels worlds better to me. right out of the box, it rides better than my Z-1 did.

    long term durability? who knows yet; some of us are gambling on SRAM having fixed those problems.........
    Florence Nightingale's Stormtrooper

  57. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roaming Oregon
    you gotta show up first...
    Next time 4sure...bad things were happening...Hospital...broken wrist...man the sun was in my eyes....mother of dirt jumps please 4give me
    the trick is ENJOYING YOUR LIFE EACH DAY, don't waste them away wishing for better days

  58. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by pdirt
    Yes, sir...

    Sweet.
    sorry PDirt..roaming Oregon had a little hit to the head...The price has been set...Stella Artois
    the trick is ENJOYING YOUR LIFE EACH DAY, don't waste them away wishing for better days

  59. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by SHIVER ME TIMBERS
    sorry PDirt..roaming Oregon had a little hit to the head...The price has been set...Stella Artois
    SMT was right...

    http://www.stellaartois.com/flash.html

  60. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roaming Oregon
    now that is what I am talking about.
    the trick is ENJOYING YOUR LIFE EACH DAY, don't waste them away wishing for better days

  61. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by SHIVER ME TIMBERS
    Next time 4sure...bad things were happening...Hospital...broken wrist...man the sun was in my eyes....mother of dirt jumps please 4give me
    I hope everthing is alright now... With the rain I'm on a mission to get my little area up and running properly... Should be ready in about a week. I do need to make it back to your area and hit that trail along with some of the other stuff near there on the big bike again. I'm blown away that WCH threw himself off the WOD. Only those that have seen it in person will understand the insanity.

    /someone should go up there with shovels and big buckets and create a real landing off of it now though...

  62. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roaming Oregon
    I hope everthing is alright now... With the rain I'm on a mission to get my little area up and running properly... Should be ready in about a week. I do need to make it back to your area and hit that trail along with some of the other stuff near there on the big bike again. I'm blown away that WCH threw himself off the WOD. Only those that have seen it in person will understand the insanity.

    /someone should go up there with shovels and big buckets and create a real landing off of it now though...
    time will come for that...I am gone for a week then I will be up for some...work/play...

    tomorrow afternoon might do a little run
    the trick is ENJOYING YOUR LIFE EACH DAY, don't waste them away wishing for better days

  63. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheSherpa
    Actually, the Pike has very cool swiss-cheese looking plastic internals.

    -TS

    You have obviously never seen one in person. That swiss cheese thing is actually thick rubber. The rubber is seriously thick, which you can't see in the pictures. It's part of the lockout system and isn't part ofthe damping of fluids. The damping parts look to be all metal.

    Peformance wise, it's pretty much just like an adjustable HSCV. You can tune it on the fly for low speed compression damping as well as high speed damping. Adjust the compression knob for low speed damping. The floodgate adjusts the high speed damping and acts similar to the HSCV blow off valve. The floodgate helps a lot in preventing botoming the fork on drops and hard hits.

    HSCV is great for being able to smash through everything and have it do it all. It's a sealed catridge so you can't adjust more than rebound. It's about the set and forget method of riding.

    Motion control isn't as much of a hit it all type of system. It allows you to fine tune the fork for what you're riding, which is extremely important when riding ALL-MOUNTAIN, but still maintains the same qualities of HSCV if set up right.

    As far as simpilicity goes. Motion control looks to have the least amount of parts of any high end damping system I'v ever seen. I like simple. Less likely to break and easier to work on.

    I hate to say it, but Motion Control IS the best and most versatile damping system out there. Where else can you get better than SPV AND as good as HSCV in the same fork? Good luck. It's clearly light years better than SPV, given it's lack of air and amount of tuneability. Close, if not AS good as HSCV in fast hits if set up right.


    On the note of being brand biased. Last time I checked Marzocchi has made some crappy stuff too, it's called dopio air.

    Even though I hate Ford cars and think they all suck in build quality. I have a 1990 Ford AreoStar van that's hasn't seen a SINGLE problem in 210,000 miles. Only changed oil and battery = close to perfect. Even though Ford typically makes junky cars that don't last at all, they happened to make a silver bullet for 1 year.

    The same goes for bike companies. Just because RockShox has made crap before doesn't logically mean that 100% of their future fork will follow the same trend. The opposite goes for Marzocchi. Just because they have a good rep doesn't mean that 100% of their forks are going to be perfect. Just look at Honda. They make some of the world's most reliable cars. They came out with the Honda Insight and guess what? The transmissions blow out religiously at 20k miles. One of the worste cars ever made and all of those people who thought Honda is impervious to fault got screwed into getting a new tranny every 20k miles.

    Brand loyalty is an idiot's method. Take each product for it's own merrit or you will loose out on great things.

  64. #64
    surf-ride-repeat
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roaming Oregon
    Done.

  65. #65
    RaD
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    Hey BudhaGoodha,what you describe is 100% spot-on.
    Good posting!

    Later
    RaD

  66. #66
    Jm.
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    Quote Originally Posted by BudhaGoodha
    Where else can you get better than SPV AND as good as HSCV in the same fork?
    With the marzocchi All-Mountain 1. TST damping allows extremely usefull compression adjustments, you can dial in the amont of low speed compression you want, lock it out (100% compression damping), use ETA to climb, adjust travel, coil-fork suppleness, etc....
    I know in my heart that Ellsworth bikes are more durable by as much as double. AND they are all lighter...Tony Ellsworth

  67. #67
    N* Bomber Crew
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    Quote Originally Posted by NorcoRider
    Get a Marzocchi 66 or Z1 Freeride. Much stronger and better performance.
    He doesn't need that much travel, and most importantly, weight proabobly.

    I STILL say Dirt Jumper. Freakin' awesome forks.
    Northstar 2008 Riding Crew

  68. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by BudhaGoodha
    The floodgate helps a lot in preventing botoming the fork on drops and hard hits.
    thanks, guess I'd better start trying to remember to turn that knob.
    good info, and to think, I only bought it cause it was cheap

  69. #69
    Uhhhhh...
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    Quote Originally Posted by Raptordude
    He doesn't need that much travel, and most importantly, weight proabobly.

    I STILL say Dirt Jumper. Freakin' awesome forks.
    But DJ's have no damping at all.

    -TS
    Fayetteville, AR and N.W.A RePrEsEnT

  70. #70
    Former Noob Herder
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    Quote Originally Posted by Raptordude
    I STILL say Dirt Jumper. Freakin' awesome forks.
    unless of course, you want to do other things besides dirt jumping...
    Quote Originally Posted by Gunslingger
    no doubt you must have majored in english or something rad!!!

  71. #71
    go big or go home
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    why the 20mm axel?

  72. #72
    Former Noob Herder
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    Quote Originally Posted by bentimby
    why the 20mm axel?
    why not? 9mm axles are stoopid...
    Quote Originally Posted by Gunslingger
    no doubt you must have majored in english or something rad!!!

  73. #73
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    Quote Originally Posted by zedro
    why not? 9mm axles are stoopid...
    you dont need a 20mm axel on a street/dj bike, ive held up with a 7' landing to flat with a friggin qr for christs sake, doesnt it weigh more anyway?

  74. #74
    Former Noob Herder
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    Quote Originally Posted by bentimby
    you dont need a 20mm axel on a street/dj bike, ive held up with a 7' landing to flat with a friggin qr for christs sake, doesnt it weigh more anyway?
    well good for you, i just dont like QRs. 20mm hub/axles can be made lighter (more efficient design, like fat tubes), but the fork dropout will add some. Plus if your other bike has 20mm, then it might be worth keeping it that way.

    its preference, and i like the added security which is indesputable, even if not needed.
    Quote Originally Posted by Gunslingger
    no doubt you must have majored in english or something rad!!!

  75. #75
    SingleTrackSal
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    I've got a Reba....

    And I dig it. I was anti-RockShox before the buyout but SRAM has really done a lot for product integrity. A buddy runs a Pike Team on his 4X/Super D bike and digs it too, stiff, reliable, adjustable, well thought out. My two cents worth, but what do I know, I wear lycra.

    Hey Roaming Oregon, great avatar - when were you last in Ketchum?

  76. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by SingleTrackSal
    And I dig it. I was anti-RockShox before the buyout but SRAM has really done a lot for product integrity. A buddy runs a Pike Team on his 4X/Super D bike and digs it too, stiff, reliable, adjustable, well thought out. My two cents worth, but what do I know, I wear lycra.

    Hey Roaming Oregon, great avatar - when were you last in Ketchum?
    Probably July or August...

  77. #77
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    I will probably hear crap for this but I just put one on my bike today and like it. Always get a bad feeling in my stomach cutting down a new steerer. Granted All I have on it so far is like a 20 mile spin for the hell of it on the street but its a nice fork. I took off a blown up Psylo Tulio and like the tulio but the new set up is even sweeter. I actually like it better than a Z1SL I have on another bike. I just can't get the rebound slow enough for my liking on the Z1SL no matter how you screw with it compound that with the fact that the axel to crown height on the Z1 seems an inch higher than any other fork I had in the same travel range. I had no problems with rock shox reliabilty for the past 3 years until this summer. I've gained about 30# since last year from not riding. Started riding this summer a couple times and blew up 3 psylos 5 different times to the point I won't rebuild them any more so I was leary about buying a pike but when its about 1/2 the price of the competitors its hard to pass up.

  78. #78
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    Still not convinced

    OK... still not wholly convinced. I'm sure most of the naysayers are those who haven't tried it, but I have a Rock Shox phobia to get over.

    I haven't ridden for a long time either, and I've had a huge clearout of my bike stuff over the winter, dismantled everything and basically am wondering what I should build out of what I've kept bits/frames as well as add new parts. I'm lacking most in terms of forks and the only relatively lightweight single crown freeride/urban fork I have is the '02 Shiver SC. I plugged this on the front of my Imperial and specced it up for a 'how it looks' fitting, let a friend ride it and it was while he was pulling some flatland tricks and I was watching him that I thought: "should the forks actually be visibly twanging? So, the SC is in the process of being built on my commuter.

    The price of the Pike is attractive especially as I'll be buying two or three (and I don't want to have to keep lots of different spares so I'll be going with one fork)... a Bullit, an Imperial and possibly a Switch, although I might be building that with a DC. My gut instinct is to go for the Z1 Freeride 1 but at the same time I'm wanting positive feedback on the Pike as I think the Z1 might be overbuilt for my light freeriding needs. I'll stress the light freeriding. What I want more is a versatile fork which can handle the occasional (OK... make that frequent) mistake. That means what I'm looking for is equally good handling on small and large bumps, good drop handling, confidence-inspiring stiffness, reasonable weight and a wide range of travel adjustment on the fly. Price is a factor because MTBing is just one of the hobbies making heavy demands on my wallet, but if a definite advantage can be demonstrated to justify the cost then my budget has practically no limit.

    Thanks.

  79. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheSherpa
    I hear there flexy.

    -TS
    not a chance. the pike is stiffer than my sherman firefly by far. the people that have told you this must not have ridden one. not callen you out. just staten the facts! i have one and it is a great fork!

  80. #80
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    this is my 2004 kona stinky and the pike works great on it.

  81. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by ctrailfreak
    this is my 2004 kona stinky and the pike works great on it.
    Nice ride! You happen to know what the wheel base is of your ride? How does it perform with the lower fork?

  82. #82
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    Quote Originally Posted by BudhaGoodha
    Nice ride! You happen to know what the wheel base is of your ride? How does it perform with the lower fork?
    actually it works well. the fork is only a half inch less travel than the rear.it still sits very slack with like a 65 degree head tube angle. this is a 20 inch frame that is actually more like a 19,and the wheelbase is 45 3/4 inches long. it works real well for both urban and deep backwoods.
    i first thought i'd get a jrt for it but i dont realy need one i dont think. you should get you one of these frames. there $599.00 right now at wheel world. just ask for lendon and tell him i sent you over there.cause the site shows them at $699.00 but there not. i love this bike.

  83. #83
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    Here's what angry asian has to say about Motion control

    angry asian review on reba motion control (same as pike), he also agrees it's the most tuneable damping system on the market today.

    nside, this particular Reba Race features Rock Shox' new U-Turn Air system. This is wholly analogous to their outstanding coil-sprung U-Turn system, but now in a lighter-weight and more tunable package, courtesy of the Dual Air system. Unlike some other "travel-adjustable" forks, U-Turn conveniently automatically adjusts the spring rate and bottom-out characteristics along with the travel, so the shorter travel settings aren't too stiff and the longer ones aren't too soft. The real story, however, is the new Motion Control damping. It's no secret that Pure wasn't perfect; it was hyper-sensitive to air in the damping chamber, and many found the system to be too progressive and not robust enough for hard use. The beauty of Motion Control is in its simplicity: rather than have a multitude of shims or a complicated variable air pressure system, MC works by using a simple plastic "spring tube" (yes, I said PLASTIC!!!!! Get over it; metal wouldn't work in this application so quit your *****ing). This spring tube, in concert with the spring-loaded Floodgate "blowoff" valve in the center, provides terrain-variable and externally adjustable compression valving. This new compression damper design includes a low-speed compression adjuster (with lockout capability) and the Floodgate, an adjustable secondary circuit. The low-speed compression circuit isn't anything terribly revolutionary; it's basically a relatively simple orifice-type damper with an adjustable port size (the little silver disc rotates to expose more or less oil port). Typically, simple orifice dampers (basically a small hole through which the damping oil is forced through) can be set to perform well in either low-speed conditions (such as brake dive) or high-speed conditions (hitting bumps at speed) but can't handle both equally well since the damping rate is not "speed-sensitive"; i.e., you'll get compression spiking on bigger/faster hits if the damping is set high enough to control brake dive, or you'll get a lot of wallowing in low-speed conditions if the damper is set relatively open so as to handle more severe impacts. What separates Motion Control apart from other orifice-type dampers, though, is the Floodgate. The secondary Floodgate circuit can be thought of in simple terms as an adjustable blow-off valve if you want, but unlike Fox's RLC-type damper (which is only active when the fork is locked out), the Floodgate works all the time, more like Marzocchi's HSCV damper. Conceptually, it might be easier to think of the Floodgate as an adjustable high-speed compression circuit with a really wide adjustment range. Sure, you can use it just as a blow-off valve when locked out, but you can also, for example, adjust things as follows:
    Low-speed damping set pretty firm for a good pedaling platform and reduced brake dive, but with a relatively open Floodgate setting so that the fork still absorbs bumps, especially fast/big or square-edged ones.

    Low-speed compression damping relatively open for excellent small-bump sensitivity, but firm Floodgate for resistance to bottoming on really burly stuff.

    Low-speed compression damping and Floodgate both relatively open for a super plush ride, letting the fork eat up small bumps and big ones, giving you a nicely linear, coil-spring-like feel.


    The first example setting is similar to what many of you already do with your Fox RLC dampers by running them locked out all the time but with a low blow-off threshold, but you currently can't mimic the other two. The best part about the new damper, though, is its amazing simplicity. There are astoundingly few parts in the assembly and the system is incredibly easy to service; just set the oil height, drop in the compression assembly, and off you go (no more elaborate bleed procedures!). The rebound damper isn't terribly different from the current design, although it now has greater oil flow for more consistent damping performance in varying conditions. The new PopLoc Adjust remote couldn't be a more natural fit unless you don't have a left thumb (check out how well they fit next to one of their trigger shifters). The paddle is wide and easily accessible, and the grey release button sits right where the end of your thumb would be. The adjustable PopLoc remote also adds a nifty little dial (in blue-anodized aluminum, I might add) to set where you would like the default low-speed compression damper setting to be (meaning you don't always have to go back to the full-open position like with the standard PopLoc or the old remote). The end of the housing routes cleanly into an integrated stop on the crown, and the general setup procedure is, overall, worlds easier and more straightforward than with the old setup (and thankfully, that stupid 1.5mm set screw has been replaced with one of a reasonable size!!!). :
    Last edited by BudhaGoodha; 01-09-2005 at 08:34 PM.

  84. #84
    Soul Cycles
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    do peeps still think the pike is crap?

  85. #85
    Te mortuo heres tibi sim?
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    Quote Originally Posted by sreiman
    do peeps still think the pike is crap?

    Crap kid; go read the various threads on the Pike for yourself! *Most* of the comment on the Pike has been favourable, with a few folks having some problems or not liking the Pikes for various reasons. Not really any different than any other fork, especially in it's first year. Sure, it may not be as great as a 36, but it's also a hell of a lot cheaper.

    Are you ever going to buy anything without needing your hand held?

    Read. Search the info on your own. Try and test on at a shop if possible. Or are you just going to keep endlessly asking on the forum about what you should buy?

    Sheesh. (rant over)
    Florence Nightingale's Stormtrooper

  86. #86
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    What's up with the pissy seals on the Pike?

    My buddy just got a Pike and on the first ride it started pissing oil pretty bad. Left many-a-oil ring on the stanchions. No joke....FIRST ride.

    It did feel good though (I only ride Bombers...er Marzocchi), and he's a RS guy. The adjustable travel and lock-out are nice touches.

    Anyone else suffer from leaky seals on their Pike?
    Leeann Tweeden is looking for me.....

  87. #87
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    Quote Originally Posted by FISHLEG
    What's up with the pissy seals on the Pike?

    My buddy just got a Pike and on the first ride it started pissing oil pretty bad. Left many-a-oil ring on the stanchions. No joke....FIRST ride.

    It did feel good though (I only ride Bombers...er Marzocchi), and he's a RS guy. The adjustable travel and lock-out are nice touches.

    Anyone else suffer from leaky seals on their Pike?
    It's not leaking. There is a foam ring under the seal that is soaked in oil. That oil can work it's way out the first few times it's ridden. It's called lubrication.

    Fox Forks do the same thing.

  88. #88
    err, 27.5+
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    Quote Originally Posted by FISHLEG
    What's up with the pissy seals on the Pike?

    My buddy just got a Pike and on the first ride it started pissing oil pretty bad. Left many-a-oil ring on the stanchions. No joke....FIRST ride.

    It did feel good though (I only ride Bombers...er Marzocchi), and he's a RS guy. The adjustable travel and lock-out are nice touches.

    Anyone else suffer from leaky seals on their Pike?
    Initial rides will have some lube showing on the stancions. It will go away after a few rides.

    FWIW...
    I rode the Pike team for about 3 months. IMO it is the best trail fork out right now, especially when you factor in that it is 1/2-1/3 the cost of the competition. Loads of adjustment, set it any way you want. Maxle is the slickest 20mm system I have used, faster than conventional qr or 20mm systems and trouble free for my time on the fork.

    I rode this fork primarily on my heckler at full travel. However I did run it for a week on my ss at 95mm. It worked well for everything I threw at it. Typical riding for me is 90% singletrack with jumps, logs, and 3-5' drops. Fork never was too flexy and more importantly never made any popping or creaking noises. Bottom out did happen, but was a soft impact instead of metal-metal clack.

    I ended up selling the fork since I am about 240 in gear and the X-firm spring still wasn't firm enough for my weight. If they come out with a stiffer spring, I drop 20lb, or they add an air assist I wouldn't hesitate to buy another one. It isn't a marzocchi, but for rockshox it is a hell of a fork.

  89. #89
    Meh.
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    Marzocchi DJs weigh WAY too much. Get a o4 or earlier Manitou Sherman Firefly or Flick with the TPC dampening (SPV is jittery feeling, and you sacrifice small bump sensitivity). They have travel adjust too. Marzocchi Z1s are pretty sweet.

  90. #90
    Soul Cycles
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    how many turns does it take to adjust the travel on the pike? i really like how the sherman flick changes at the flick of a switch. but im not sure if the sherman "lockout" will hold out on DJs

  91. #91
    Still on Training Wheels!
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    I've been riding my PIKE race for about a mounth now and couldn't be happier. Super plush and very stiff, and has saved my ass a few times. Rode Moab all last weekend and there wasn't a thing I didn't feel comfortable with. I droped the travel to 95mm for climbing 120mm for general use, and 140mm for DH or Freeriding. For the most part I left the Compression and floodgate completly open and only closed them when doing a larger drop. Lock out was great on climbs and is very easy to switch from full open to locked out. FWIW I still have the stock springs(med) and need the firm springs for my weight and I've done 4 feet to flat with the Comperssion and FG full open and still have about an inch of travel left. To sum it up, I feel this for is the perfect match for my do it all Kona Coiler, It climbs well, desends well and handles drops like they were a curb.

    As for the U-turn It is not realy a on the fly adjustment. It takes about 4 full turns to go from full travel to minimum travel, but feels easier to do when off the bike. You can drop the travel while riding, but if you want to increase the travel you need to unweight the fork to do so. Increasing the travel while riding just feels very harsh on the fork, not internaly, but just doesn't feel right.
    It's not a good ride if you don't scare yourself at least once.


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  92. #92
    Jm.
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    Quote Originally Posted by XSL_WiLL
    Marzocchi DJs weigh WAY too much. Get a o4 or earlier Manitou Sherman Firefly or Flick with the TPC dampening (SPV is jittery feeling, and you sacrifice small bump sensitivity). They have travel adjust too. Marzocchi Z1s are pretty sweet.
    yeah. a 5.4lb firefly is so much lighter....
    I know in my heart that Ellsworth bikes are more durable by as much as double. AND they are all lighter...Tony Ellsworth

  93. #93
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    Quote Originally Posted by sreiman
    how many turns does it take to adjust the travel on the pike? i really like how the sherman flick changes at the flick of a switch. but im not sure if the sherman "lockout" will hold out on DJs
    6 turns.

    The sherman lockout is a joke and just like ETA is pretty usless as a travel adjust, they are more of travel "lock downs".

    The Pike remains super plush when lowered down to 95mm. You can then turn on the Floodgate and create however much lockout you want. The Pike set at 95mm and full open compression feels 1,000 times better going up hill than any ETA type device. ETA forks will bounce off everything in sight when harmering up steep hills, because it is super stiff. This induces wheelies and loss of steering. The Pike just remains glued to the ground and makes a night/day difference in how it rides uphill over roots aand rocks.

    ---------------------------------------------------------

    The Pike usually comes full of oil under the seals to keep the bushings lubed for break in period. This will cause oil rings to form for a while, totally normal. So far the bushings on the Pike have held up fine for everyone, I haven't seen a single complaint of them failing bad. They don't have to hold any air, they just need to hold oil and keep dirt out. From what I've seen so far on my Pike, they do a really good job even though they are not very tight. That may be a reason why the Pike is so damn smooth on small bumps.

    You might want to squirt some oil into the seals with a needle pointed siringe. Just pull the upper lip back with a needle and squirt some oil into there. That will help keep the fork nice and lubed, seeing as how it's semi bath, it needs it.

    --------------------------------------------------------

    Despite what every "fork expert" thinks they know, the Pike is in fact a progressively sprung fork.

    SRAM designed the damper to have two small air/oil resevoirs in the motion control spring tube. These perform the task of containing the compressed air and providing a progressive, smooth bottom out, and serve well in rebounding the damping fluid.

    The oil is pumped into the damper by a pump rod that is smaller in diameter than the oil chamber. This gives it a hydrolic leverage over the damping and air chambers.

    The damping air chambers don't really "ramp up" until the last 2 inches of travel. Thus the Pike maintains a LINEAR feel for most of its travel, which everyone is liking a lot. Ideally you want to have an oil level in the damping chamber that will fill 95% of the space in the air chambers under full travel compression. That's how mine was setup from the factory and never once has my fork hit "real" bottom where I can feel and hear it, it always ramps up perfectly in the last 5 mm of travel and never hits metal on metal.

    The added progression effect of the new motion control unit might explain why they removed the rubber stopper from the Uturn springs. Earlier Uturn forks all had a rubber stopper for preventing harsh bottom out. The Pike doesn't have this.

    You can adjust your progession by removing the spring while the fork is still on the bike and still has the wheel on it. Add or remove oil from the compression damper to adjust how much it ramps up. Make sure to pull the fork to full extended travel when putting the motion control damper back on as adjusting, this will make sure that you keep the proper amount of air trapped in the damper. If you put it on when the fork is compressed, it will create a negative air pressure when you put the spring back in and actually remove any progression making the fork totally linear and will most likely bottom out hard.

    IF you want maximum progression without putting too much oil in, try this. take the spring out and remove the motion control unit. Next add a considerable amount of fork oil to the chamber. Then remove the rubber ring on the threads of the motion control unit where it screws into the crown. Then screw the unit back into the fork, but leave it loose just before it get's to full tight. Now push down on the fork as hard as you can so that it pushes all the way down in its travel. This should cause oil to leak out the top if the motion control unit where you removed the ring. Next unscrew and remove the motion control unit and then remove a tiny amount of oil, like 1-3ml. Then put the coil spring back in and put the fork up to 140mm. Next put the rubber ring back onto the motion control unit and screw it back in nice and tight. You should now have maximun progression that the Pike can provide. Don't expect the fork to be as progressive as an over filled marzocchi. This adjustment on the Pike really only effect the very last part of the travel and has an effect on bottom out.

    ---------------------

    Conversely, if you want to make your fork more linear and plusher in 100mm mode, you can do two things. First remove oil to a lower level than speced from the factory. Second, lower the fork down to 95mm and THEN screw in the motion control unit. This will lessen the amount of trapped air in the damper and provide for a more linear and plusher feel in 95mm mode.

    Setting up the fork for 140mm and then dropping it down to 95mm will always be less plush than setting it up in 95mm and leaving it there.
    Last edited by MicroHuck; 04-26-2005 at 08:08 PM.

  94. #94
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    Quote Originally Posted by MicroHuck
    6 turns.

    The sherman lockout is a joke and just like ETA is pretty usless as a travel adjust, they are more of travel "lock downs".

    The Pike remains super plush when lowered down to 95mm. You can then turn on the Floodgate and create however much lockout you want. The Pike set at 95mm and full open compression feels 1,000 times better going up hill than any ETA type device. ETA forks will bounce off everything in sight when harmering up steep hills, because it is super stiff. This induces wheelies and loss of steering. The Pike just remains glued to the ground and makes a night/day difference in how it rides uphill over roots aand rocks.
    Yes, and because ETA locks your fork down so much it can cause your pedals to clip rocks that normally could be easily pedaled over. U-Turn seems to be a much better choice in my opinion.
    <><

  95. #95
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    What a bunch of Bozo's some of you are

    I think there must be a bunch of children on this site. I can't believe how many of you bash the Pike based on heresay and speculation. If you have not ridden one, then reserve judgement. For those who replied that have ridden the Pike, you will see very positive feedback on the fork. I've been riding one for several months and beat the hell out of it and it is just as good as day one. I am a 230lb rider too. It is stiffer than the Dirt Jumper 2 and the Z1 FR I used to have. It is also a much more versatile design. There is a lot of good engineering that went into the Pike line of forks. The price is right, they are supper stiff, very adjustable and you can make them ride soft, firm or locked out, 95 to 140mm of adjustable travel by just turning a dial, motion control damping, exteranally adjustable Rebound and finally, the 20mm Maxle is the best and easiest design out there for removing the front wheel. And one last thing. I have the Team model w/o the stupid bar mounted poplock feature and my fork weight 4.75lbs. I had my reservations about buying a Rockshox but the reviews I read were awesome and I rolled the dice and bought one. I'm glad I did.

  96. #96
    Soul Cycles
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    the pike has my vote. i just hope it holds up.

  97. #97
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    Quote Originally Posted by drum714
    I've been riding my PIKE race for about a mounth now and couldn't be happier. Super plush and very stiff, and has saved my ass a few times. Rode Moab all last weekend and there wasn't a thing I didn't feel comfortable with. I droped the travel to 95mm for climbing 120mm for general use, and 140mm for DH or Freeriding. For the most part I left the Compression and floodgate completly open and only closed them when doing a larger drop. Lock out was great on climbs and is very easy to switch from full open to locked out. FWIW I still have the stock springs(med) and need the firm springs for my weight and I've done 4 feet to flat with the Comperssion and FG full open and still have about an inch of travel left. To sum it up, I feel this for is the perfect match for my do it all Kona Coiler, It climbs well, desends well and handles drops like they were a curb.

    As for the U-turn It is not realy a on the fly adjustment. It takes about 4 full turns to go from full travel to minimum travel, but feels easier to do when off the bike. You can drop the travel while riding, but if you want to increase the travel you need to unweight the fork to do so. Increasing the travel while riding just feels very harsh on the fork, not internaly, but just doesn't feel right.

    Nice review, just wondering, what Coiler do you have, 5" or 6" frame?

  98. #98
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    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleDown
    It's not leaking. There is a foam ring under the seal that is soaked in oil. That oil can work it's way out the first few times it's ridden. It's called lubrication.

    Fox Forks do the same thing.
    Cool, I'll pass the info onto my buddy.

    What's this "lubrication" thing you speak of.....never heard of it. Must be new for 05.
    Leeann Tweeden is looking for me.....

  99. #99
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    Nice review, just wondering, what Coiler do you have, 5" or 6" frame?
    I have the 04 model with 5 inches of travel. I think swapping my POS marzocchi drop off for the Pike rased my front end a little, but i like the feel of my rig better now. I dont know for sure, but i think putting the Pike on the 05 model(6 inches) would maintain the same head angle as it came stock.
    It's not a good ride if you don't scare yourself at least once.


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