Reducing travel on Marzocchi- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Reducing travel on Marzocchi

    I got '99 Z.3 with 3"of travel. I want to make it down to 2". Is that the matter of cutting main spring and adding a spacer instead? Any how to's available?

    Thanks!
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  2. #2
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    this is a shot in the dark, but thats how travel adjustment is done with the dirtjumper forks. is the 99 z-1 open bath or cartridge?

    maybe you can over fill it w/ oil so it hydro-locks before reaching 3" travel.

    have you looked at the stance static 80mm? seems like a good match for a park bike.

  3. #3
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    Z.3, not Z.1

    Seals will pop out

    No manipoop **** needed. Already got Marzocchi.
    For the love of Oi

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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lucky13
    Z.3, not Z.1

    Seals will pop out

    No manipoop **** needed. Already got Marzocchi.
    yup, the spring thing will work. Remember, cutting springs will make them stiffer. Add the cut spring section or a spacer to the negative spring stack.
    Quote Originally Posted by Gunslingger
    no doubt you must have majored in english or something rad!!!

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by zedro
    yup, the spring thing will work. Remember, cutting springs will make them stiffer. Add the cut spring section or a spacer to the negative spring stack.
    You mean cut a piece and move it down to negative spring? Spacer or the piece of spring?

    Yeah, stiffer will be good.
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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lucky13
    You mean cut a piece and move it down to negative spring? Spacer or the piece of spring?

    Yeah, stiffer will be good.
    you can use a spacer or the piece of cut spring. Basically whatever you remove from the postive springs, you have to add to the negative.
    Quote Originally Posted by Gunslingger
    no doubt you must have majored in english or something rad!!!

  7. #7
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    Great, thanks much Zedro!
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  8. #8
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    Just wondering, how come you need only two inches of travel?

    You may run into problems with the cut springs biting into something inside the fork. Cutting the spring will also cause it to become stronger. The best thing to do is make some spacers out of PVC and put them with the negative springs that are already in there. I would then force the caps down and tighten them up. In effect you will have more preload on the springs. Not much different then having the stronger modified springs, but at least you won't be possibly damaging your fork from sharp springs and it will be only a couple bucks to do. I would make the spacers about 20mm. Not an inch but it will do the trick.

    Otherwise if you cut the spring you should take a torch and bend a new perch on the 4 springs. I would then grind down the perch to make it flat.

    Two methods, same outcome.

    Louis
    Last edited by Severum; 01-16-2005 at 11:21 PM.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Severum
    You may run into problems with the cut springs biting into something inside the fork. Cutting the spring will also cause it to become stronger. The best thing to do is make some spacers out of PVC and put them with the negative springs that are already in there. I would then force the caps down and tighten them up. In effect you will have more preload on the springs. Not much different then having the stronger modified springs, but at least you won't be possibly damaging your fork from sharp springs and it will be only a couple bucks to do. I would make the spacers about 20mm. Not an inch but it will do the trick.
    i disagree. Although i dont like the idea of cutting springs, this would be more ideal than preloading the springs since the fork will handle like total crap yet may still bottom-out.

    For example, for a 40#/in spring, if you preload it one inch, due to the travel decrease, you would get probably no sag at all and the fork would feel really harsh; ie. 40pounds of force are going to go right into your wrists before the fork starts to absorb the impact (on a landing say). Now by cutting a 7" long spring to 6", you'll get a 46.6#/in (top of my head calc.) spring with zero preload (no wrist shattering), and it being stiffer will allow for more bottom out resistance with the lower travel.

    You can try it, nothing to lose really.

    and just to note, keep the cut side of the spring pointing upward into the metal washer, not the plastic pumping rod head. And year, try and flatten it out as much as possible.

    Another alternative is air prings.
    Quote Originally Posted by Gunslingger
    no doubt you must have majored in english or something rad!!!

  10. #10
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    I'm doing the same mod to a Atom 80. I am getting extra top out springs and cutting the main springs. I am gonna spend the time to mod the springs accordingly.

    Your preload idea makes sense to me.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Severum
    I'm doing the same mod to a Atom 80. I am getting extra top out springs and cutting the main springs. I am gonna spend the time to mod the springs accordingly.

    Your preload idea makes sense to me.
    also you can go to your LBS and see if they have any old short springs (like from old RSs) in the defunct bin.
    Quote Originally Posted by Gunslingger
    no doubt you must have majored in english or something rad!!!

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lucky13
    I got '99 Z.3 with 3"of travel. I want to make it down to 2". Is that the matter of cutting main spring and adding a spacer instead? Any how to's available?

    Thanks!
    Your best bet would be just to put an extra top out spring in the bottom of the fork... It would max the preload and stiffen things up a bit....

    Brian

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Peterson
    Your best bet would be just to put an extra top out spring in the bottom of the fork... It would max the preload and stiffen things up a bit....

    Brian
    arrrrgg...any comment on what i said above?
    Quote Originally Posted by Gunslingger
    no doubt you must have majored in english or something rad!!!

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by zedro
    arrrrgg...any comment on what i said above?
    I try to avoid anything that involves cutting springs....

    Brian

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Peterson
    I try to avoid anything that involves cutting springs....

    Brian
    well, not much use in making the fork feel like crap either...

    but if it were me, i'd probably switch to air.
    Quote Originally Posted by Gunslingger
    no doubt you must have majored in english or something rad!!!

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by zedro
    well, not much use in making the fork feel like crap either...

    but if it were me, i'd probably switch to air.
    It's not really going to feel any worse that if he had the preload cranked up all the way.... Now, if you tried to go any more than the one top out, yes, it would drastically effect the ride of the fork. Not to mention getting the fork back together would be a feat in itself...

    The air option would probably be a better way... Especially if he tried to go any lower with the travel...

    Brian

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Peterson
    It's not really going to feel any worse that if he had the preload cranked up all the way.... Now, if you tried to go any more than the one top out, yes, it would drastically effect the ride of the fork. Not to mention getting the fork back together would be a feat in itself...

    The air option would probably be a better way... Especially if he tried to go any lower with the travel...

    Brian
    well he wants an inch, which is alot of preload. Also you'd need more than an inch of spacer/negative spring to actually get that inch since the springs would be pulling so much.
    Quote Originally Posted by Gunslingger
    no doubt you must have majored in english or something rad!!!

  18. #18
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    I modded my Z1CR down to 3" by clipping the springs and then addng pvc spacers to the negative stack......


  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by .WestCoastHucker.
    I modded my Z1CR down to 3" by clipping the springs and then addng pvc spacers to the negative stack......
    You mean that you put some kind of a bracket to hold a few coils together after you've compresssed them? Could you explain a little more?

    Thanks
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  20. #20
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    If I had to guess he is modding the fork for the same reason I am. I need a stiff but short travel shock for a trials/urban build. I'd go rigid but it tough on the wrists. Just using to take the edge off.

    I have some 70mm extra heavy springs coming from Marzocchi. I have to cut one spring because I am running a 2002 HSCV cart with the 2000 HSCV cart. The 2002 body is 20mm longer so it pushes that side spring up 20mm. I am going to cut that spring down to make it work. From my calculations I should still have a good 60mm of spring travel on that short spring without making it bind up on full compression.

  21. #21
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    "If I had to guess he is modding the fork for the same reason I am. I need a stiff but short travel shock for a trials/urban build. I'd go rigid but it tough on the wrists. Just using to take the edge off."

    Precisely. Have the same issue: just want it to be shorter in travel and a little stiffer.
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  22. #22
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    Remove the top caps.
    Remove the foot nuts at the bottom of the fork.
    Drain the oil.
    Remove the springs.
    Remove the carts.
    There will be small springs in the bottom of stanctions.
    If you put about a 20mm length of PVC on top of each of those springs, and you reassemble, then you will lower the ride about one inch. This is essentially the same thing Ryan Leech did on his Norco trials rig. He used the stock length springs just in the extra heavy variety with extra 20mm top out springs. It will be a little work getting the top out caps back on.
    I would just ride this around a bit and see if you like it. My guess is that it will not be stiff enough. If it isn't quite right and you figure preload is the problem, then you can either get 70mm springs for $40 a pop or cut the ones you have down.

    Louis

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    As a side note.

    When I had no top out springs installed I had 108mm of stanction tube exposed.
    With 1 20mm top out spring per side, I had 86mm and with 2 20mm tops out springs per side, I had 70mm of stanction exposed.

    Not that running without any top out springs is smart, just showing the difference in maximum available travel. (Yeah, it'll prolly be 5mm less actually then measured on those old Zoke forks.)

  24. #24
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    Yeah, thanks. I took it apart and going to strip its paint to kustomize it a bit and shorten/stiffen the travel a bit. So 20mm specer will take an inch out of the game?
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  25. #25
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    Yeah, 20mm is less than an inch but the preloaded main springs will load the top outs down. So 20mm should do the trick. Ideally if you like the feel you should buy a pair of 20mm top out springs for it. They will run you $5 each from your shop. That way the preloaded springs don't bottom out your top outs. Not that it matters as the top outs are there for the return to full extension, but it is never wise to full compress a spring.

    Louis

  26. #26
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    "Ideally if you like the feel you should buy a pair of 20mm top out springs for it. They will run you $5 each from your shop" <---- and? Where do they go?
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    In place of the PVC spacers when you find out how you like it. If your not too worried about the compressed top outs, then just leave the spacers in.

    I still think you'll find your interested in heavier springs later. Front wheel moves would be a lot easier with a stiffer fork.

    Louis

  28. #28
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    That's what I'm looking for. I had a stiff dirt jumper 2 ('02) b4 with like 2.5" and it was sick, but flexy. Now I got this Z.3 with 20mm axel; should be sick! Thanks for your help Loius.
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  29. #29
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    i made my spacers 40mm long because i cut 40mm off my 110mm top springs, then put that spacer at the bottom of the negative spring stack assembly....


  30. #30
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    WCH banned from Fontana
    the trick is ENJOYING YOUR LIFE EACH DAY, don't waste them away wishing for better days

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    hater....


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    u don't call me anymore...3 times this weekend is not enough....I wonder about you. Did you have fun dis weekend...any weekday rides???
    the trick is ENJOYING YOUR LIFE EACH DAY, don't waste them away wishing for better days

  33. #33
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    Thank ya all.
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  34. #34
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    Sorry to bring the thread back, but how about cutting those plastic spacers on top of main springs by the length of the spacer added so I won't have to force top caps back on? I decided just to add spacers without cutting the spring.
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  35. #35
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    Oh yeah, your model fork has the spacers on top. That will work great.

    Louis

  36. #36
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    so cutting them to the length of spacers is the way to go?
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  37. #37
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    Yeah, cut 20mm off the spacers, stuff the 20mm pieces with the top out springs and the remainder goes on top of the main springs.

    Louis

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