Redbull got some demo questions- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Redbull got some demo questions

    Hey redbull i no ur demo is really light i wanna shave some more weight of my demo 8 pro. I haven't modified anything really except threw on some bom proof deemaxs. Whats on ur demo 9?

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigBadHucker
    Hey redbull i no ur demo is really light i wanna shave some more weight of my demo 8 pro. I haven't modified anything really except threw on some bom proof deemaxs. Whats on ur demo 9?
    Get some ust tires. Your deemaxx's are already set up for tubeless so score some Maxxis or Michelin UST DH tires and set it up with some stans tire sealant (www.notubes.com). Apply for the TI spring that should have come with your bike. The new style XT cranks are really light and hella stiff. Also a lighter chain guide could save up to a half pound, check out gamutusa.com for some high quality yet light ones. Small parts add up quickly.

    P.S. Redbull's demo isn't that light.
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    JackNugz

    Quote Originally Posted by zedro
    no, but they are shinier....it's like the fututre, where everything is really really shiny.....but still really just the same ol'crap

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigBadHucker
    Hey redbull i no ur demo is really light i wanna shave some more weight of my demo 8 pro. I haven't modified anything really except threw on some bom proof deemaxs. Whats on ur demo 9?
    I have a Demo 9 that comes in at 42#. I am guessing right now that your demo is a little over 40#'s. A few things you could do would be DHX5 with Ti spring, XT cranks, Gamut Guide, Thompson seat post and light weight road Saddle, Easton Nano-Tech carbon fiber bar, running UST/stans rather than tubes... Other little things you could do, but that sounds good to me...
    Quote Originally Posted by Mouse
    what were is gnarcal

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by konabiker
    Get some ust tires. Your deemaxx's are already set up for tubeless so score some Maxxis or Michelin UST DH tires and set it up with some stans tire sealant (www.notubes.com). Apply for the TI spring that should have come with your bike. The new style XT cranks are really light and hella stiff. Also a lighter chain guide could save up to a half pound, check out gamutusa.com for some high quality yet light ones. Small parts add up quickly.

    P.S. Redbull's demo isn't that light.
    Haha, we both just said the same thing...
    Quote Originally Posted by Mouse
    what were is gnarcal

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Red Bull
    Haha, we both just said the same thing...
    (I started typing and then my mom called me down to dinner...)
    Quote Originally Posted by Mouse
    what were is gnarcal

  6. #6
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    carbon fiber bars and crap DO NOT save that much wieght. So sick of people reccomending that crap. Save a 1/40th of a pound and risk breaking your bars! yay! Anyway rant is over, here is a 39.2 pound demo 8 pro. Built light but not uber-light, and built very bombproof.
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    170mm profile crankset, silver king headset barely used, new blackspire chainguide, old version hope mini brakes---- all for sale at i-wanna-get-rid-of-it prices. I'm gone all of july after the 10th, other than that PM me if interested.

  7. #7
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    UST tyres (not bigger than 2.5"), your Ti spring, light seat pole (thomson) and lighter brakes (carbon Mags or Juicys/El Caminos) would be my advice, youll save quite a bit of weight and really improve the way the bike rides...

    but apart from that your bike should be pretty light to begin with...
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  8. #8
    gnar, brah
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    Quote Originally Posted by j6105
    carbon fiber bars and crap DO NOT save that much wieght. So sick of people reccomending that crap. Save a 1/40th of a pound and risk breaking your bars! yay! Anyway rant is over, here is a 39.2 pound demo 8 pro. Built light but not uber-light, and built very bombproof.
    Carbon bars actually save a lot of weight. Small parts will add up quick, and carbon bars will be just as effective as a lighter crankset. Easton (I use the Monkey Lite DH)) stress tests all off their carbon bars before they leave the factory. Carbon bars have a maximum yield (breaking/bending point) ten times higher than aluminum bars; you'll never break one unless you subject it to some blunt impacts, like hitting it with a hammer or over-torqueing the stem bolts.

    You save most of the weight on a bike with different wheels/tires. You'd be surprised what a lighter set of tires will do. After that, look at Ti springs, new cranks, bars, etc. Don't forget the cassette. A high end cassette will save a lot of weight. I have both Titanium and a Carbon composite Selle Italia Flite saddles. Not bad for comfort and really light. I'd recommend them just because you'll find a ton on ebay...I got my Ti one brand new for $12, regularly $90.
    Trestle Bike Park

  9. #9
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    There was an article in Decline about it...

    Biker3 has em'.
    Quote Originally Posted by Mouse
    what were is gnarcal

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Red Bull
    There was an article in Decline about it...

    Biker3 has em'.
    yeah is was about easton and carbon bonding or somthin like. sounded too much like chemistry so i didnt read it that much.
    Sully

  11. #11
    gnar, brah
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    Quote Originally Posted by Red Bull
    There was an article in Decline about it...

    Biker3 has em'.
    Well I love my Monkey Lite DHs on my FR bike so much that I'm probably going to get a set for my XC bike (the DH bars). Yeah, if you can get some, I'd go for it. Super light, super stiff, and 10x stronger than aluminum if you don't abuse them.
    Trestle Bike Park

  12. #12
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    Thxs for all the help but a few things to clear up. My bike came stock with ti spring and lighter hayes magnesium brakes. My frame is small and i just weighed it and it is 38lbs. But i think im gunna run some new tires, new seat post, new chainguide. (Hate the black spire its ****).
    Can anyone recoomend a specefic tire to run. Also whats the best chain guide system?

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigBadHucker
    Thxs for all the help but a few things to clear up. My bike came stock with ti spring and lighter hayes magnesium brakes. My frame is small and i just weighed it and it is 38lbs. But i think im gunna run some new tires, new seat post, new chainguide. (Hate the black spire its ****).
    Can anyone recoomend a specefic tire to run. Also whats the best chain guide system?
    For a chainguide, run an e.13. You will never need another chainguide again...

    Not too sure about the tires, i will let some tubeless veteran chime in...
    Quote Originally Posted by Mouse
    what were is gnarcal

  14. #14
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    WTF. Yes carbon bars are sexy but they only save about a 1/40th of a pound. Get a new cassette and get 1/4 pound and better shifting. Get a new saddle, save half a pound and get comfortable. Get Ti spring, half a pound and better suspension. Get a better chain guide like a MRP Fusion and save almost a pound.

    Carbon bars are purposeless.
    Easton 25.4 mm stem (270 g) + 225 g carbon bars ======================= 495 g
    Syncros OS 31.8 stem(stock on demo) 220 g + Easton EA70 OS 31.8 bars 265g == 485g

    As you see the non carbon is lighter, stiffer, can take repeated abuse (carbon fatigues and has internal damage). It is your choice, spend twice as much (loose about 80 bucks) and get the heavier carbon system. Loosers.

    Did we also mention you have to torque carbon bars with a torque wrench each time you put them on or risk breaking them on the spot? And have to clamp things is specific non adjustable zones? Easton is the king of carbon, but that don't mean much except for roadies.

    AndrewPalooza---- any form of apology and/or editing will be accepted lol.

    For future reference -- ~453 grams = one pound.

    I cannot emphasize how sick tubeless is....... the 2 pounds of weight savings from UST feels to be about 8-10 pounds on the bike if you were using DH tubes and tires.

    Stans rim strips are not cool because they are heavy, cannot change tires without mega effort, and you are required to use tire sealant.

    Go Mavic UST with hadley hubs. Expensive, but strong and light and worth every penny.
    170mm profile crankset, silver king headset barely used, new blackspire chainguide, old version hope mini brakes---- all for sale at i-wanna-get-rid-of-it prices. I'm gone all of july after the 10th, other than that PM me if interested.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Red Bull
    For a chainguide, run an e.13. You will never need another chainguide again...
    How do you like that gamut? do you a P40 or which one?

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by j6105
    WTF. Yes carbon bars are sexy but they only save about a 1/40th of a pound. Get a new cassette and get 1/4 pound and better shifting. Get a new saddle, save half a pound and get comfortable. Get Ti spring, half a pound and better suspension. Get a better chain guide like a MRP Fusion and save almost a pound.

    Carbon bars are purposeless.
    Easton 25.4 mm stem (270 g) + 225 g carbon bars ======================= 495 g
    Syncros OS 31.8 stem(stock on demo) 220 g + Easton EA70 OS 31.8 bars 265g == 485g

    As you see the non carbon is lighter, stiffer, can take repeated abuse (carbon fatigues and has internal damage). It is your choice, spend twice as much (loose about 80 bucks) and get the heavier carbon system. Loosers.

    Did we also mention you have to torque carbon bars with a torque wrench each time you put them on or risk breaking them on the spot? And have to clamp things is specific non adjustable zones? Easton is the king of carbon, but that don't mean much except for roadies.

    AndrewPalooza---- any form of apology and/or editing will be accepted lol.

    For future reference -- ~453 grams = one pound.

    I cannot emphasize how sick tubeless is....... the 2 pounds of weight savings from UST feels to be about 8-10 pounds on the bike if you were using DH tubes and tires.

    Stans rim strips are not cool because they are heavy, cannot change tires without mega effort, and you are required to use tire sealant.

    Go Mavic UST with hadley hubs. Expensive, but strong and light and worth every penny.
    What if you already have a Ti spring, etc? And carbon bars don't fatigue, there just like aluminum and SNAP like aluminum snaps. Do you not use a torque wrench on the rest of your bike?
    Fayetteville, AR and N.W.A RePrEsEnT

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Carro
    How do you like that gamut? do you a P40 or which one?
    I personally dont have a gamut, but alot of people really like 'em because they are uber-light, and most people have never dropped a chain. However, if you like anywhere or your riding style likes to hit rocks, get an e.13...
    Quote Originally Posted by Mouse
    what were is gnarcal

  18. #18
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    The carbon bars will fail 100 percent. It is all or nothing. Aluminum bars will bend first and will have ovious signs like play and dents that they are about to break. Carbon bars just..........snap. Ask SMT about his friend. Yes, a torque wrench is required for linkages, but having to go to the LBS each time you change bars is annoying as hell, and there is still the risk the torque wrench is off. Snap again. If you already have a Ti spring, it is up to you if you want to drop money tiny tiny weigh savings or spend money for car gas to go ride or lift ticket fees. To each his own.
    170mm profile crankset, silver king headset barely used, new blackspire chainguide, old version hope mini brakes---- all for sale at i-wanna-get-rid-of-it prices. I'm gone all of july after the 10th, other than that PM me if interested.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by j6105
    The carbon bars will fail 100 percent. It is all or nothing. Aluminum bars will bend first and will have ovious signs like play and dents that they are about to break. Carbon bars just..........snap. Ask SMT about his friend. Yes, a torque wrench is required for linkages, but having to go to the LBS each time you change bars is annoying as hell, and there is still the risk the torque wrench is off. Snap again. If you already have a Ti spring, it is up to you if you want to drop money tiny tiny weigh savings or spend money for car gas to go ride or lift ticket fees. To each his own.
    Aluminum usually fails in the same exact way. If you pay attention to your carbon bars, you won't have a problem. People also like the way carbon bars feel.

    Oh and BTW you save 1/20th + 3 grams of a lbs with Easton Carbon DH bar over an EA70.
    Fayetteville, AR and N.W.A RePrEsEnT

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    but you have to run a heavier stem because the undersized 25.4 is not as strong and stiff and therefor they are always overbuilt. Find me the lightest true DH/FR 25.4 mm stem on the market. A company named large makes a Downhill specific 31.8 that comes in a t 180 grams. We don't need a calculator to tell this is a large difference.

    The arguement about carbon bars breaking is stupid. If there is enough force to start breaking all the threads go. I have been making skimboards and surfboards with 4 ounce 90/90 ballistics carbon for years, and when they snap, it is always the same story. Metal has to fatigue before it snaps, unless ungodly pressures are exerted upon it.

    Also that 10 stronger crap is based on a competitors 25.4 mm bar. An easton EA70 31.8 mm bar much stronger.
    170mm profile crankset, silver king headset barely used, new blackspire chainguide, old version hope mini brakes---- all for sale at i-wanna-get-rid-of-it prices. I'm gone all of july after the 10th, other than that PM me if interested.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by j6105
    but you have to run a heavier stem because the undersized 25.4 is not as strong and stiff and therefor they are always overbuilt. Find me the lightest true DH/FR 25.4 mm stem on the market. A company named large makes a Downhill specific 31.8 that comes in a t 180 grams. We don't need a calculator to tell this is a large difference.

    The arguement about carbon bars breaking is stupid. If there is enough force to start breaking all the threads go. I have been making skimboards and surfboards with 4 ounce 90/90 ballistics carbon for years, and when they snap, it is always the same story. Metal has to fatigue before it snaps, unless ungodly pressures are exerted upon it.

    Also that 10 stronger crap is based on a competitors 25.4 mm bar. An easton EA70 31.8 mm bar much stronger.
    Thomsons probably the lightest. Wtf, that hole carbon making **** is outta my league.
    Fayetteville, AR and N.W.A RePrEsEnT

  22. #22
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    I don't make the carbon fiber, I simply bond it to surfaces with epoxy resin complex just like easton. It actually isn't that hard to do and raw carbon fiber outside of resin is sooo sick, just like stiff shiny black cloth.
    170mm profile crankset, silver king headset barely used, new blackspire chainguide, old version hope mini brakes---- all for sale at i-wanna-get-rid-of-it prices. I'm gone all of july after the 10th, other than that PM me if interested.

  23. #23
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    i know carbon fiber is really stiff and strong+ light. They cost more because they are harder to make, but i don't think there is to much of a difference. I never had Carbonfiber bars, but i'm looking into some for an all around bike.

  24. #24
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    Carbon IS stiffer than aluminum, that is a fact. It had a higher impact strength than AL, however repeted impacts will cause the bar to break without warning.
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    How much weight do you save using a UST system over using tubes?
    I was looking at the Azonic Vigilante FR Tire which is a 2.5 and 760g, but not UST

  26. #26
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    Curb hucker--- yes carbon fiber is stiff, but not rigid. Metals by nature are rigid or they ftigue and break. My longboard has 4 layers of carbon fiber cloth and bends to the floor if you do not distribute weight near the trucks. Carbon fiber is NOT more rigid that metal, especially if it is near the same weight.

    The reason you see "stiff" touted in carbon description is because it is stiff compared to other composite materials such a kevlar, supra, sorona, fiberglass, and graphite. Not metal.

    The coolest thing in the world right now has to be metal glass. Still in proto form for even the most basic applications, it is 500x more rigid and 4 times stronger than a normal solid metal. Very cool-- hopefully it will be on bikes in 10 years or so.
    170mm profile crankset, silver king headset barely used, new blackspire chainguide, old version hope mini brakes---- all for sale at i-wanna-get-rid-of-it prices. I'm gone all of july after the 10th, other than that PM me if interested.

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigBadHucker
    Thxs for all the help but a few things to clear up. My bike came stock with ti spring and lighter hayes magnesium brakes. My frame is small and i just weighed it and it is 38lbs. But i think im gunna run some new tires, new seat post, new chainguide. (Hate the black spire its ****).
    Can anyone recoomend a specefic tire to run. Also whats the best chain guide system?
    the new MRP system 3 would be your best bet for a new guide, there the original and the best, there simple and they work, also they now come in 3 models, 1 being a full aliminum system, 2 being an aliminum body with a Lexan (clear plastic) Bashguard, or 3 which is a complete carbon fibre system...also theve beent rimmed down from there older and original design to no longer use an innner plate, to bring wieight down etc.

    as far as tubless tyres goes, id reccomend any UST Michy's, i personally like the DH Comp 32, but being a 2.8" tyre with thick sidewalls there kind of heavy so, if your concerned about the weight then maby a 2.5" or smaller Hot S or something might do the trick...

    and the lightest seat poles are made by thomson, the elite is the standard amungst most racers but if your wanting that extra shaded weight then the masterpiece will be your best bet, but elites are light enough to begin with...

    and my teacher is about to kick my ass so i must be leaving...
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