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  1. #1
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    Raw steel frame?

    I was thinking of stripping all of the paint off my steelhead and clearcoating it so it wouldnt rust. Anybody have a pic of a raw steel frame all ive seen are aluminum and I like it but would steel look the same?
    thanks
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  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by saviorself
    I was thinking of stripping all of the paint off my steelhead and clearcoating it so it wouldnt rust. Anybody have a pic of a raw steel frame all ive seen are aluminum and I like it but would steel look the same?
    thanks
    i think it would look nice. just see how raw steel looks and picture it in ur head. be the first
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  3. #3
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    steel has a darker tone to it and is alot harder to polish, but sanded down can look fairly good. Clearcoating however wont be enough, it's too porous to stop rust it seems, but you can get clear powdercoat.

    Stripping paint can be a huge job, hope you have a good angle grinder and sanding disks
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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chikity China
    be the first
    exept he wouldnt....
    Quote Originally Posted by Gunslingger
    no doubt you must have majored in english or something rad!!!

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by zedro
    steel has a darker tone to it and is alot harder to polish, but sanded down can look fairly good. Clearcoating however wont be enough, it's too porous to stop rust it seems, but you can get clear powdercoat.

    Stripping paint can be a huge job, hope you have a good angle grinder and sanding disks

    use a sandblaster instead, alot faster and cleaner

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by zedro
    steel has a darker tone to it and is alot harder to polish, but sanded down can look fairly good. Clearcoating however wont be enough, it's too porous to stop rust it seems, but you can get clear powdercoat.

    Stripping paint can be a huge job, hope you have a good angle grinder and sanding disks
    I was thinking of using the paint striping stuf you can get in an automotive store in a can. Ive heard the paint just falls off after a couple of minutes. Any idea where I can get a clear powdercoat and around how much it would be?

    edit: and clearcoat is more pourus than the crappy paint that come on it?
    Last edited by saviorself; 08-16-2005 at 07:18 PM.
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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by .WestCoastHucker.
    don't do it, unless you plan on doing a clear powdercoat. i tried this once before, after about 2 months i had an unbelievable amount of spiderweb looking rust spots. after a year it was complete rust, even under my clearcoat.....
    yeah maybe ill go for a powdercoat. ill have to see what goes down when i deciede to build the rest of it
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  8. #8
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    don't do it, unless you plan on doing a clear powdercoat. i tried this once before, after about 2 months i had an unbelievable amount of spiderweb looking rust spots. after a year it was complete rust, even under my clearcoat.....

  9. #9
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    clear powder coat is the way to go.. strip off as much paint as possible with chemical stripper. the powder coat shop will media blast it anyway and get the last bit off.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by fiddy_ryder
    clear powder coat is the way to go.. strip off as much paint as possible with chemical stripper. the powder coat shop will media blast it anyway and get the last bit off.
    wheres a cheap place to get a powdercoat?
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  11. #11
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    this is what happens with just clearcoat on steel.....
    i thought i'd give my cranks that cool raw finish wih clear, it didn't last at all. the pic is on the outside face, but the rust runs all the way around to the back where the clearcoat is still intact....
    Last edited by .WestCoastHucker.; 01-23-2007 at 10:00 AM.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by .WestCoastHucker.
    this is what happens with just clearcoat on steel.....
    i thought i'd give my cranks that cool raw finish wih clear, it didn't last at all. the pic is on the outside face, but the rust runs all the way around to the back where the clearcoat is still intact....
    ok screw clearcoat
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  13. #13
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    didn't balfa do a raw finish? i thought it looked pretty damn sweet.

  14. #14
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    I don't know about "cheap" powdercoat but try your local off road ATV/Cycle centers or at least ask them to point you to a powdercoat place.. Lots of people powdercoat their ATV frames. Maybe just google or use Dex Online and search for "powdercoat" for your area.

  15. #15
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    Take that thing and get it chromed. A good auto body shop will dip in into a "hot tank" and then send it to be chromed. That would be slick.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by ianjenn
    Take that thing and get it chromed. A good auto body shop will dip in into a "hot tank" and then send it to be chromed. That would be slick.
    mucho $ right?

    edit: thatd make it more ridiculously heavy than it already is
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  17. #17
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    here's one....


    PM Evil4bc..... also ask him about his "trout" color. that is way cooler than chrome IMO...

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by COmtbiker12
    Same with companies like OnOne who sell their 4130 frames in raw. They're beautiful in a way that isn't often seen in frames. You can see the discoloration from all of the welds in the metal, its quite cool.
    that's because the clear powdercoat them. same with cortina......

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by JBsoxB
    here's one....


    PM Evil4bc..... also ask him about his "trout" color. that is way cooler than chrome IMO...
    Same with companies like OnOne who sell their 4130 frames in raw. They're beautiful in a way that isn't often seen in frames. You can see the discoloration from all of the welds in the metal, its quite cool.
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  20. #20
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    as always, look to bmx

    Quote Originally Posted by zedro
    exept he wouldnt....
    Yeah, bmx bikes have been clearcoated for years. A clearcoated Reynolds 853 roadbike, now that would be cool.
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  21. #21
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    haro makes some of their stunt bikes in a raw finish, the discoloration from the welds is awesom!!!!
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  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by urbanfreerider666
    haro makes some of their stunt bikes in a raw finish, the discoloration from the welds is awesom!!!!
    yeah the welds was what i liked about it. i got the idea from the haro and the onone gimp
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  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by urbanfreerider666
    haro makes some of their stunt bikes in a raw finish, the discoloration from the welds is awesom!!!!
    i saw someone at the skatepark on one of those. they look like they;re really fun.


    off topic i know, but i thought i'd share

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by ianjenn
    Take that thing and get it chromed. A good auto body shop will dip in into a "hot tank" and then send it to be chromed. That would be slick.
    the chroming process embrittles 4130 and some other steel alloys, so you'll be making the frame weaker. Its fine for heavy gage stuff, but not bikes.
    Quote Originally Posted by Gunslingger
    no doubt you must have majored in english or something rad!!!

  25. #25
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    well i thought about it and it would cost around $100 or a little more to have my frame and fork powdercoated. For that money, I can get a personal powdercoater and a pound of the paint. I already have a compressor so that not an issue. The only thing I wonder is how i can fabricate an oven with no exposed flames big enough to fit a bike frame. any ideas?

    edit: i know about infrared lamps, iwas just wondering if theres any cheaper way.
    Last edited by saviorself; 08-17-2005 at 02:39 PM.
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  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by zedro
    the chroming process embrittles 4130 and some other steel alloys, so you'll be making the frame weaker. Its fine for heavy gage stuff, but not bikes.
    ZEDRO ... seriously chrome doesnt effect bikes that much , how many BMX frames have been chromed plated ? TONS !

    I have herd the acid wash process does keep eating away at the frame though , under the chrome .

    Most chrome bikes I have seen fail usually have long miters with very thin wall thickness at the tip/end , with poor weld also .

    I think the trick is to get it copper plated instead of the cheeper nickle .... Not to sure though
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  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Evil4bc
    ZEDRO ... seriously chrome doesnt effect bikes that much , how many BMX frames have been chromed plated ? TONS !

    Most chrome bikes I have seen fail usually have long miters with very thin wall thickness at the tip/end , with poor weld also .

    I think the trick is to get it copper plated instead of the cheeper nickle .... Not to sure though
    common, BMX frames are boat anchors, way overbuilt. Like you said, thin tubes + a not so great weld = breaky breaky. I mean, we are talking about an Azonic (i think), not exactly the highest quality.

    Regardless, chroming embrittles 4130, the strength will be lower no matter what. Now weither it will cause him failiure is like discussing the possible effects of speedholes....
    Quote Originally Posted by Gunslingger
    no doubt you must have majored in english or something rad!!!

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Evil4bc
    True ...true

    Yea all the chrome stuff I saw break in my bmx days were either old bikes that had tons of rust between the welds or were the miters had been coped so much that the end were they were welded was a fraction of the wall thickness of the orignal tubes used .

    So now the real question , do you think it would be safe to Chrome one of my bikes ?
    S&M did the black bike in chrome and they use a version of the same tubes we use on our frames .

    But I guess it may all depend on the vendor ...
    hehe, i posted it!

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by zedro
    common, BMX frames are boat anchors, way overbuilt. Like you said, thin tubes + a not so great weld = breaky breaky. I mean, we are talking about an Azonic (i think), not exactly the highest quality.

    Regardless, chroming embrittles 4130, the strength will be lower no matter what. Now weither it will cause him failiure is like discussing the possible effects of speedholes....
    True ...true

    Yea all the chrome stuff I saw break in my bmx days were either old bikes that had tons of rust between the welds or were the miters had been coped so much that the end were they were welded was a fraction of the wall thickness of the orignal tubes used .

    So now the real question , do you think it would be safe to Chrome one of my bikes ?
    S&M did the black bike in chrome and they use a version of the same tubes we use on our frames .

    But I guess it may all depend on the vendor ...
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  30. #30
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    you just have to oil it to keep it from rusting, like guns...
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    does it still qualify as a mountainbike?
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  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Evil4bc
    So now the real question , do you think it would be safe to Chrome one of my bikes ?
    S&M did the black bike in chrome and they use a version of the same tubes we use on our frames .

    But I guess it may all depend on the vendor ...
    well i think its unpredictable, especially around welds which inherantly have defects. No matter what there will be worse welds than others in any production, and i think it would just magnify any potential problems.
    Quote Originally Posted by Gunslingger
    no doubt you must have majored in english or something rad!!!

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by .WestCoastHucker.
    don't do it, unless you plan on doing a clear powdercoat. i tried this once before, after about 2 months i had an unbelievable amount of spiderweb looking rust spots. after a year it was complete rust, even under my clearcoat.....
    most custom steel framebuilders who've tried it have found the same.

    apparently it doesn't take but a tiny amount of atmospheric moisture trapped beneath the coating.

    that iron oxide is a tenacious substance and forms quite easily.

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by scabrider
    you just have to oil it to keep it from rusting, like guns...
    Yup thats the best way to run the RAW look , WD40 works ok , I prefer a heavy chainlube and just wipe you bike down every few days .
    It's takes a wile for the oil to soak into the metal but once it's good you don't have to worry about rust at all . I ran a set of orignal Solid BMX cranks oiled for almost 2 years with no rust .

    My raw frame pictured above was wiped with oil also .. no paint !

    And speaking of Guns how to a bet a tank big enough a blue coat a frame ?
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  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by scabrider
    you just have to oil it to keep it from rusting, like guns...
    yeah, i always shoot my guns through the rain and mud

    in my climate that wouldnt last long, or would be alot of maintenance at least. City riding would be ok tho.
    Quote Originally Posted by Gunslingger
    no doubt you must have majored in english or something rad!!!

  35. #35
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    you can get brush on gun blue stuff...
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    Quote Originally Posted by JBsoxB
    does it still qualify as a mountainbike?
    Quote Originally Posted by kidwoo
    I've beat beer cans on my limp pee pee.

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by scabrider
    you can get brush on gun blue stuff...
    Oh snap ! well now I can do my dropouts !

    Thanks
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  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by saviorself
    The only thing I wonder is how i can fabricate an oven with no exposed flames big enough to fit a bike frame. any ideas?
    edit: i know about infrared lamps, iwas just wondering if theres any cheaper way.
    Use your grill, maybe even add some barbecue sauce.

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by vardiel
    Use your grill, maybe even add some barbecue sauce.
    well thats just stupid, barbecue sauce is very corrosive....
    Quote Originally Posted by Gunslingger
    no doubt you must have majored in english or something rad!!!

  39. #39
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    I think you should do it, itd definately come out nice.
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  40. #40
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    My Mosh cruiser is "raw" finished.


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