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  1. #1
    e.f.f.e.c.t smoothoperatr
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    people with floating brakes......

    when going over little bumps do you here the thing making a metel clanking noise? because there is alittle bit of lateral play with the floating brake " bar". i dident know if this was normal.
    if this helps
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  2. #2
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    first of all floting brakes suck al to gether and another thing if it clanks then tighten it up duhh. a secondthing how could u be so stupid to think that if it clanks it is helping anything you dumbass

  3. #3
    e.f.f.e.c.t smoothoperatr
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    Quote Originally Posted by hughairboy188c
    first of all floting brakes suck al to gether and another thing if it clanks then tighten it up duhh. a secondthing how could u be so stupid to think that if it clanks it is helping anything you dumbass
    haha I BET BOY! i still need an answer, thanks derek

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by hughairboy188c
    first of all floting brakes suck al to gether and another thing if it clanks then tighten it up duhh. a secondthing how could u be so stupid to think that if it clanks it is helping anything you dumbass
    responding like that makes u the dumass sry
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  5. #5
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    clanking

    Quote Originally Posted by themarsvolta55
    when going over little bumps do you here the thing making a metel clanking noise? because there is alittle bit of lateral play with the floating brake " bar". i dident know if this was normal.
    if this helps
    hey dude....as a general rule...clanking = bad....on the other side: it`s normal for the floating brake thingy to move a BIT from side to side...if it clanks it must be hitting the frame at some point of the suspension movement..so try to bend the rod in a way it doesn t hit the frame...oh...and don t brake anything.
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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by El Dorado
    hey dude....as a general rule...clanking = bad....on the other side: it`s normal for the floating brake thingy to move a BIT from side to side...if it clanks it must be hitting the frame at some point of the suspension movement..so try to bend the rod in a way it doesn t hit the frame...oh...and don t brake anything.

    no its not hitting into the frame or anything, its the tie rod part, where the bolts go into the floating brake and into the frame

    where i drew the circles, the bolts ACT like there to small and the bearings around the bolt just move back and forth and make that clank noise. even going at walking speed, if i tap the back brake it makes the noise. i can remove one side of the floating brake and shorten it becuase it has those " adustment screws" but i dont know if it will work
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  7. #7
    Tear it all out! SuperModerator
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    I have one too. What you are hearing is the play in the rod ends.

    If they are relatively new, and not worn out, you can get rid of the noise by using chain lube on the ball.

    If they are old and worn, you'll need to replace them.

    Tightening the rod ends up won't get rid of the play, it only adjusts the length of the rod.

  8. #8
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    i have a fly also, it is fairly normal for it to "clank" as it breaks in, see above post. It isn't hurting anything except your sanity, it really bugged me so I put zip-ties on both sides of the ball joints, it restricts the side to side movement of the arm ans the zip-ties serve as bumpers, it cut the noise down almost completely. hope that helps.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by iattackthedarkness
    i have a fly also, it is fairly normal for it to "clank" as it breaks in, see above post. It isn't hurting anything except your sanity, it really bugged me so I put zip-ties on both sides of the ball joints, it restricts the side to side movement of the arm ans the zip-ties serve as bumpers, it cut the noise down almost completely. hope that helps.

    do you have a pic of the zip ties on the floating brake?

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by hughairboy188c
    first of all floting brakes suck al to gether and another thing if it clanks then tighten it up duhh. a secondthing how could u be so stupid to think that if it clanks it is helping anything you dumbass
    You need to stop being an a hole you are a newb and need to step off, as well there are arguements to be made that a single pivot bike with a floater is better than a 4 bar or VPP bike and if you ride a kona you can't say anything

  11. #11
    e.f.f.e.c.t smoothoperatr
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    do you think i can press the bolts and " bearings" out and get new ones?

  12. #12
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    Mars V -

    I saw you and the bike over at Diablo today.

    The 'clank' you hear on there is normal. It did it when I owned the bike too. It's from the rotation of the ball joint thru the travel. You can remove the joint and put some adhesive backed foam behind it where it contacts if you don't like the sound.

    -ska todd

  13. #13
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    You replace the rod ends as a unit.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by CraigH
    You replace the rod ends as a unit.


    ya im probably do that

    ska todd- where you the one with the morewood? i think your whole team has morewoods right?

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by ska todd
    Mars V -

    I saw you and the bike over at Diablo today.

    The 'clank' you hear on there is normal. It did it when I owned the bike too. It's from the rotation of the ball joint thru the travel. You can remove the joint and put some adhesive backed foam behind it where it contacts if you don't like the sound.

    -ska todd

    its not only from the ball joint thru the travel, even if im going at walking speed and im tap on the brakes it makes the noise, im going to try your method first with the foam, ( which i dont really get, ill post a close up of the joint and if you can explain where to put them) and if it doesent work ill replace them like whats CRAIGH said

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by themarsvolta55
    ska todd- where you the one with the morewood? i think your whole team has morewoods right?
    Nope...I was the guy on the jazz blue Sunday.

    Quote Originally Posted by themarsvolta55
    its not only from the ball joint thru the travel, even if im going at walking speed and im tap on the brakes it makes the noise, im going to try your method first with the foam, ( which i dont really get, ill post a close up of the joint and if you can explain where to put them) and if it doesent work ill replace them like whats CRAIGH said
    He's what I'd recommend:

    1. rock the floater side to side and not where it contacts the frame
    2. unbolt floater
    3. put adhesive backed foam or rubber in the spot where the floater contacts
    4. put floater back on

    -ska todd

  17. #17
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    There are a wide range of quality of rod ends available, from really cheap industrial quality, up to amazingly expensive rod ends used for aviation.

    The cheaper rod ends have a lot of play. The aviation rod ends have almost no play but are probably to tight, so could prevent the floating brake working properly.

    It sounds like you bought the frame used so the rod ends might be worn. I used to race a formula car, and replacing rod ends was part of the annual maintenance.

    I'd start with contacting the frame manufacturer (or who ever made the floating brake) and buy a new set of rod ends.

  18. #18
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    If the rod or arm is hitting the frame, fix that first. You can move the position of the rod by spacing the rod ends in or out using washers as spacers.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by CraigH
    There are a wide range of quality of rod ends available, from really cheap industrial quality, up to amazingly expensive rod ends used for aviation.

    The cheaper rod ends have a lot of play. The aviation rod ends have almost no play but are probably to tight, so could prevent the floating brake working properly.

    It sounds like you bought the frame used so the rod ends might be worn. I used to race a formula car, and replacing rod ends was part of the annual maintenance.

    I'd start with contacting the frame manufacturer (or who ever made the floating brake) and buy a new set of rod ends.

    If the rod or arm is hitting the frame, fix that first. You can move the position of the rod by spacing the rod ends in or out using washers as spacers.
    Mars V's frame has been ridden hard by expert level New England DH guys for the past 4 seasons. I can almost guarantee it needs some love to stuff like bearings and those end joints.

    He probably can't get those end joints thru Profile as they only made a handful of those frames and a small number of them with floaters. The guy who worked on this project unfortunately passed away so finding someone at Profile with intimate knowledge of the project could be tough.

    When I owned the bike there was no contact between the floater arm and any frame part. The end joint would rotate some and knock against the rear brake adapter. We just would pad up the contact area w/ some adhesive (like w/ a Shimano derailleur on an old M1).

    -ska todd

  20. #20
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    I'd bet that if he took the rod ends to a Formula race car shop, they could source them with no problem. Race cars eat rod ends.

    The other would be to contact Brian @ Brake Therapy as he makes and sells floating brake that look quite similar. He would have the suppliers to get the rod ends.

  21. #21
    e.f.f.e.c.t smoothoperatr
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    Quote Originally Posted by CraigH
    There are a wide range of quality of rod ends available, from really cheap industrial quality, up to amazingly expensive rod ends used for aviation.

    The cheaper rod ends have a lot of play. The aviation rod ends have almost no play but are probably to tight, so could prevent the floating brake working properly.

    It sounds like you bought the frame used so the rod ends might be worn. I used to race a formula car, and replacing rod ends was part of the annual maintenance.

    I'd start with contacting the frame manufacturer (or who ever made the floating brake) and buy a new set of rod ends.


    you cant get them from like a hardware store or somewhere like that

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by CraigH
    I'd bet that if he took the rod ends to a Formula race car shop, they could source them with no problem. Race cars eat rod ends.

    The other would be to contact Brian @ Brake Therapy as he makes and sells floating brake that look quite similar. He would have the suppliers to get the rod ends.

    does brake therapy have a website? or a phone #

  23. #23
    Fly
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    If you have a Grainger store nearby they carry them. I think you can order them online too.

    http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/start.shtml

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    Cool-blue Rhythm

    Quote Originally Posted by Fly
    If you have a Grainger store nearby they carry them. I think you can order them online too.

    http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/start.shtml

    cant find any on there......

  25. #25
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    Brake Therapy's floating brake page:

    http://www.therapycomponents.com/FLOATING%20BRAKE.htm

  26. #26
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    picture of zip-tie fix

    It ins't pretty, but it works and it's cheap.
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  27. #27
    Fly
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    I know Grainger carries them only because thats where I got mine. If you do a search on their site for"rod end" a whole bunch of them come up, but I am not sure if the size you need is up there. Other than there I would agree with everyone else just contact the manf. Good luck dude!
    Last edited by Fly; 05-23-2005 at 03:13 PM.

  28. #28
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    www.mcmaster.com thats where i got my ball joints for my floater. Pretty cheap and good tolerances.

    a good way to get rid of the noise is to route the brake line along the rod instead of the swingarm. This keep the rod from flopping around and also gives you the optimal brake line routing.
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  29. #29
    e.f.f.e.c.t smoothoperatr
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    thanks alot, bought the bolts from MC and put them on its all fixed

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by themarsvolta55
    when going over little bumps do you here the thing making a metel clanking noise? because there is alittle bit of lateral play with the floating brake " bar". i dident know if this was normal.
    if this helps
    mine does that too. last time i went riding the noise was really starting to bug me in the stutter pumps. i think there was always a little play in the rod, even when it was new. anyway, thanks for posting this thread. i'm going to try the zip-tie trick and see if that helps.

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