New MRP G2 Mini SL...redesigned and 30% lighter- Mtbr.com
Results 1 to 61 of 61
  1. #1
    Glad to Be Alive
    Reputation: SHIVER ME TIMBERS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    42,929

    New MRP G2 Mini SL...redesigned and 30% lighter

    Building the new M-9 and came across this MRP which is 30% lighter...has anyone else tried this MRP out...I just ordered one

    claims are 30% lighter, more compact, lower profile upper guide reduces noise from chain slap while improving fit on bikes that have tight clearance tolerances with frame members. The lower guide is more compact, lighter and stronger than previous models. Our patented skid is tapered and relieved in multiple areas to provide the lightest, most durable, and best fitting bash guard possible. (copied off chain reaction)
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails New MRP G2 Mini SL...redesigned and 30% lighter-61120.jpg  

    the trick is ENJOYING YOUR LIFE EACH DAY, don't waste them away wishing for better days

  2. #2
    18 years old
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    632
    Whats a nice piece of art like that cost these days, Bob?
    Quote Originally Posted by irieness
    ...it's just that when I'm wondering what things are like head tube, seat post, cranks, flux capacitor, SS, FS, hardtail...

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    312
    That is going on my new 951 Looking forward to seeing how diffrent the 951 is from my 04 spec bighit.

    The guide is about 150$ direct from mrp

  4. #4
    Glad to Be Alive
    Reputation: SHIVER ME TIMBERS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    42,929
    Quote Originally Posted by DeadlyStryker
    Whats a nice piece of art like that cost these days, Bob?
    google it and it is a little less then 120

    fricken awesome
    the trick is ENJOYING YOUR LIFE EACH DAY, don't waste them away wishing for better days

  5. #5
    Commit or eat sh!t
    Reputation: Cable0guy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    2,383
    Not a fan of the new G2. My friend's couldn't take a rock strike and broke. Less than a week old. Not only that, now that the roller is on the taco, you couldn't simply take the taco off and ride the rest of the day either. I think MRP took too much weight off and make it pretty weak.

    I had the previous G2, and that was more bombproof. Even with my penchant for finding rocks and hitting them.

  6. #6
    GUIDANCE COUNSELOR
    Reputation: NoahColorado's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Posts
    3,766
    Quote Originally Posted by Cable0guy
    Not a fan of the new G2. My friend's couldn't take a rock strike and broke. Less than a week old. Not only that, now that the roller is on the taco, you couldn't simply take the taco off and ride the rest of the day either. I think MRP took too much weight off and make it pretty weak.

    I had the previous G2, and that was more bombproof. Even with my penchant for finding rocks and hitting them.
    Interesting. Sorry your friend had a bad experience. I suppose if you hit a rock hard enough you could break the skid, regardless of how old it is. He should've contacted the warranty guy, he's pretty fair. He may not give away the part, but taking into account that he just bought it, and that MRP wants people stoked on the product, he probably would work him a pretty sweet deal.

    Before I even worked for MRP, they would provide me with prototypes to test, so I've been riding the G2SL for well over a year and haven't broken a single part (well, early one I broke one of the captive slider nuts, but b/c of that they redesigned it). I've found it to be pretty "bombproof", certainly every bit as strong as the original G2. The majority of failures I see, and I mean the VAST majority, are caused by solvent based lubricants which absolutely destroy the plastic. As a good rule of thumb, steer clear of lubes with "Dry" in the name. Wax based lubes are generally safe and I've had good luck with them in a variety of conditions.

    Cheers

    Enjoy your guide SMT.
    Last edited by NoahColorado; 03-31-2011 at 08:21 AM.
    NOAH SEARS
    MRP - VP of Business Development
    Pivot Cycles - Team Rider

  7. #7
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Posts
    153
    I just just put the g2 sl on my spec enduro, no complaints so far but then again I haven't ridden anything to gnarly since I got it. Super easy to install, love the way it looks and it's feather light so I hope it can take some abuse. I paid 130 at universal cycles

  8. #8
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    352
    I hate to say it but the G2 mini SL is not a robust product by any stretch of the imagination. In my experience, the parts on the guide are worthless. The lower roller guide broke on mine and my buddies G2 mini SL within two rides. The trails we were riding on were smooth and there was no visible sign of rock impact. On the other hand, I must praise MRP's customer service for stepping up and replacing the part. Unfortunately it took almost 2 weeks to receive the replacement.
    FYI, my Lg1+ has been going strong for 1.5 years without one issue. I will not be purchasing any MRP products in the near future.

  9. #9
    mtbr member
    Reputation: hozzerr1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    366
    yeah boyyyyyyyy!

    Thanks for bringing this one up Bob.

    I just ordered one from my LBS and will be throwing this one on my new EME- NUEVE.

  10. #10
    Glad to Be Alive
    Reputation: SHIVER ME TIMBERS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    42,929
    Quote Originally Posted by hozzerr1
    yeah boyyyyyyyy!

    Thanks for bringing this one up Bob.

    I just ordered one from my LBS and will be throwing this one on my new EME- NUEVE.
    Bike Shack
    very downhill friendly shop
    6672 B Santa Susanna Pass Rd
    Simi Valley
    805-285-0592
    805-551-5502 cell
    the trick is ENJOYING YOUR LIFE EACH DAY, don't waste them away wishing for better days

  11. #11
    mtbr member
    Reputation: woodyak's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    3,198
    I've been running the 1st edition MRP Mini-G2 since it first came out and it's been rock solid. Over the 1.5 year span I did have to replace the roller wheel and the little plate that goes over it but it was a minor issue that MRP was very fair about taking care of. I also replaced my skid plate due to wear and my taco has a bend in it from taking a couple of pretty harsh direct hits. Overall I've been very happy with it and I've recommended them to many of my friends. I recently installed the newer BB mount version on my wife's bike and it's been rock solid so far. Highly recommended.

  12. #12
    Ricky DH
    Reputation: rep_1969's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    2,249
    Looks pretty whimpy.

  13. #13
    banned
    Reputation: PapaSmurf99's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    165
    Weight Weeny.

  14. #14
    GUIDANCE COUNSELOR
    Reputation: NoahColorado's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Posts
    3,766
    Quote Originally Posted by rep_1969
    Looks pretty whimpy.
    Did you mean flexy? We'll be sure to add moar shims to next years version for ya.
    NOAH SEARS
    MRP - VP of Business Development
    Pivot Cycles - Team Rider

  15. #15
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    510
    anything that simply slips between the frame and BB WILL move on first impact which, to me would be VERY annoying...

    I too heard of a few people breaking their rather easily...On my trailbike , maybe, for my DH ,I think I'll pass on this one.

  16. #16
    bikeaholic
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Posts
    712
    Quote Originally Posted by tuumbaq
    anything that simply slips between the frame and BB WILL move on first impact which, to me would be VERY annoying...
    Pretty sure they make it in ISCG varieties as well.

  17. #17
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    427
    I am replacing my G2 mini with this, when it breaks, but so far, all i had to do was regrease the roller wheel (pulleywheel?)

  18. #18
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Posts
    8,218
    I mounted a mini G2 SL on my knolly delirium, a dozen rides with some direct strikes and it is still OK.

  19. #19
    Ricky DH
    Reputation: rep_1969's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    2,249
    Quote Originally Posted by NoahColorado
    Did you mean flexy? We'll be sure to add moar shims to next years version for ya.

    I stand corrected.

  20. #20
    Glad to Be Alive
    Reputation: SHIVER ME TIMBERS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    42,929
    Quote Originally Posted by woodyak
    I've been running the 1st edition MRP Mini-G2 since it first came out and it's been rock solid. Over the 1.5 year span I did have to replace the roller wheel and the little plate that goes over it but it was a minor issue that MRP was very fair about taking care of. I also replaced my skid plate due to wear and my taco has a bend in it from taking a couple of pretty harsh direct hits. Overall I've been very happy with it and I've recommended them to many of my friends. I recently installed the newer BB mount version on my wife's bike and it's been rock solid so far. Highly recommended.
    been riding my G2 mini for over a year and my taco has many deep gouges (Flyin Monkey) and it still is in great shape
    the trick is ENJOYING YOUR LIFE EACH DAY, don't waste them away wishing for better days

  21. #21
    Trying to be helpful
    Reputation: Guy.Ford's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    2,503
    Lopes guide = FTW
    #THELEGENDMTB
    2016 RSD Mayor
    2018 Diamondback Release 5CA

  22. #22
    Glad to Be Alive
    Reputation: SHIVER ME TIMBERS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    42,929
    Quote Originally Posted by Guy.Ford
    Lopes guide = FTW
    that is the GL model.....I think
    the trick is ENJOYING YOUR LIFE EACH DAY, don't waste them away wishing for better days

  23. #23
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    54
    Quote Originally Posted by NoahColorado
    Interesting. Sorry your friend had a bad experience. I suppose if you hit a rock hard enough you could break the skid, regardless of how old it is. He should've contacted the warranty guy, he's pretty fair. He may not give away the part, but taking into account that he just bought it, and that MRP wants people stoked on the product, he probably would work him a pretty sweet deal.

    Before I even worked for MRP, they would provide me with prototypes to test, so I've been riding the G2SL for well over a year and haven't broken a single part (well, early one I broke one of the captive slider nuts, but b/c of that they redesigned it). I've found it to be pretty "bombproof", certainly every bit as strong as the original G2. The majority of failures I see, and I mean the VAST majority, are caused by solvent based lubricants which absolutely destroy the plastic. As a good rule of thumb, steer clear of lubes with "Dry" in the name. Wax based lubes are generally safe and I've had good luck with them in a variety of conditions.

    Cheers

    Enjoy your guide SMT.
    I dunno, I've been thru 4 lower guide shields this year. Other than that tho, it's been mint. And when they have broken the've left a tiny lil circle of plastic behind enabling the lower pully to stay in place so I never actually lost my chain at all.
    And no over torquing either, after the first one broke, all consequent ones got a dab of locktite and the bolt lightly sipped up, still broke the same way.

  24. #24
    GUIDANCE COUNSELOR
    Reputation: NoahColorado's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Posts
    3,766
    Quote Originally Posted by SlackBoy
    I dunno, I've been thru 4 lower guide shields this year.
    What kind of lube are you using? Any cleaning products?

    That's a lot of failures of the same part, something must be causing it.
    NOAH SEARS
    MRP - VP of Business Development
    Pivot Cycles - Team Rider

  25. #25
    Glad to Be Alive
    Reputation: SHIVER ME TIMBERS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    42,929
    Quote Originally Posted by NoahColorado
    What kind of lube are you using? Any cleaning products?

    That's a lot of failures of the same part, something must be causing it.
    I like Pedros dry lube...what do you guys recommend....I run pretty much dry chains because it is so dusty...any thoughts or brands??
    the trick is ENJOYING YOUR LIFE EACH DAY, don't waste them away wishing for better days

  26. #26
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    54
    Quote Originally Posted by NoahColorado
    What kind of lube are you using? Any cleaning products?

    That's a lot of failures of the same part, something must be causing it.
    Ya Rocks are

    Finish line wet, and fenwicks wash which is non solvent.
    Same as on many other bikes and guides.

    I personally think that the lower guide plate sits either a fraction proud, or bang on the line of the taco and when bouncing off rocks they slide up/along the taco and smash off the lower guide plate

  27. #27
    GUIDANCE COUNSELOR
    Reputation: NoahColorado's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Posts
    3,766
    Quote Originally Posted by SHIVER ME TIMBERS
    I like Pedros dry lube...what do you guys recommend....I run pretty much dry chains because it is so dusty...any thoughts or brands??
    I use Boeshield T-9 in drip bottle, the spray version has a butane propellant which can cause damage. It's really dusty here too and it seems to work well, stay clean. I've also used Pedro's Synlube, which does a great job too. And my latest is Chain-L which I really like, a little dirty, but quiet.
    NOAH SEARS
    MRP - VP of Business Development
    Pivot Cycles - Team Rider

  28. #28
    GUIDANCE COUNSELOR
    Reputation: NoahColorado's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Posts
    3,766
    Quote Originally Posted by SlackBoy
    Ya Rocks are

    Finish line wet, and fenwicks wash which is non solvent.
    Same as on many other bikes and guides.

    I personally think that the lower guide plate sits either a fraction proud, or bang on the line of the taco and when bouncing off rocks they slide up/along the taco and smash off the lower guide plate
    Well let me know if you'd like to try a different guide, I want you to be happy with the product. We'll have the new S4 available at the end of the month (the very end) if you want a guide with a tradition bash guard.
    NOAH SEARS
    MRP - VP of Business Development
    Pivot Cycles - Team Rider

  29. #29
    GUIDANCE COUNSELOR
    Reputation: NoahColorado's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Posts
    3,766
    This one's even lighter....

    carbon haters, start your engines.....
    NOAH SEARS
    MRP - VP of Business Development
    Pivot Cycles - Team Rider

  30. #30
    mtbr member
    Reputation: berzerker's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    350

    too light...

    ...and nowhere near storng enough. My Session came with one, went through 3 skid plates and two uppers in a matter of a few months. They're definitely not made for smashing rocks. Next bike I'm going old-school aluminum chainring sandwich type. Some things just can't be made any lighter without comprimising strength.

  31. #31
    GUIDANCE COUNSELOR
    Reputation: NoahColorado's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Posts
    3,766
    Quote Originally Posted by berzerker
    They're definitely not made for smashing rocks..
    Correct, that's not what they're made for. We design them to protect your drivetrain from damage caused by rocks, logs, etc., but not specifically to inflict damage to rocks.
    NOAH SEARS
    MRP - VP of Business Development
    Pivot Cycles - Team Rider

  32. #32
    Glad to Be Alive
    Reputation: SHIVER ME TIMBERS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    42,929
    Quote Originally Posted by NoahColorado
    Correct, that's not what they're made for. We design them to protect your drivetrain from damage caused by rocks, logs, etc., but not specifically to inflict damage to rocks.
    TOO FUNNY
    the trick is ENJOYING YOUR LIFE EACH DAY, don't waste them away wishing for better days

  33. #33
    Glad to Be Alive
    Reputation: SHIVER ME TIMBERS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    42,929
    Quote Originally Posted by NoahColorado
    I use Boeshield T-9 in drip bottle, the spray version has a butane propellant which can cause damage. It's really dusty here too and it seems to work well, stay clean. I've also used Pedro's Synlube, which does a great job too. And my latest is Chain-L which I really like, a little dirty, but quiet.
    Will the pedros dry lube be fine to use
    the trick is ENJOYING YOUR LIFE EACH DAY, don't waste them away wishing for better days

  34. #34
    Glad to Be Alive
    Reputation: SHIVER ME TIMBERS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    42,929
    Quote Originally Posted by NoahColorado
    This one's even lighter....

    carbon haters, start your engines.....

    thanks...after I order mine

    how much lighter compared to the regular Mini GL??
    the trick is ENJOYING YOUR LIFE EACH DAY, don't waste them away wishing for better days

  35. #35
    GUIDANCE COUNSELOR
    Reputation: NoahColorado's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Posts
    3,766
    I don't know. Terrible answer I know, but lube makers generally don't say what's in their lubes. We could probably call them up tomorrow and ask, I don't see that lube on their site anymore.

    I suspect that most "dry" lubes are basically solvents coupled with PTFE or similar, and solvents KILL polycarbonate. In the past we've basically said "do not use with solvent based lube" in the instructions of our guides, I want to make that more known and let folks know which lubes are copacetic - that's proving to be a pretty hard task though with so many lubes on the market. We'll keep working at it.
    NOAH SEARS
    MRP - VP of Business Development
    Pivot Cycles - Team Rider

  36. #36
    mtbr member
    Reputation: berzerker's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    350
    Quote Originally Posted by NoahColorado
    Correct, that's not what they're made for. We design them to protect your drivetrain from damage caused by rocks, logs, etc., but not specifically to inflict damage to rocks.
    I wasn't even trying Phoenix DH trails at South Mountain can be pretty unforgiving, and I'm not the most fluid of riders

  37. #37
    Calm like a Bomb
    Reputation: stunzeed's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    1,070
    Has anyone installed one yet on the 951? Do you know if I need the regular or wide?

  38. #38
    GUIDANCE COUNSELOR
    Reputation: NoahColorado's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Posts
    3,766
    Brand new 951 or previous gen? I think they've made some revisions right?
    NOAH SEARS
    MRP - VP of Business Development
    Pivot Cycles - Team Rider

  39. #39
    Calm like a Bomb
    Reputation: stunzeed's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    1,070
    previous gen

  40. #40
    GUIDANCE COUNSELOR
    Reputation: NoahColorado's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Posts
    3,766
    We made a special original G2 for the original 951 where the ISCG05 holes were rotated, but the angle of the guide was the same.

    Pretty certain there are no issues with the G2SL on either the orignal 951 or the 2011. Intense specs the G2SL in their build kits. But a call to Intense might be in order.

    Def. don't need the what we call the "wide-angle", that's for bikes like Canfield and K-9 with idler pulleys.
    NOAH SEARS
    MRP - VP of Business Development
    Pivot Cycles - Team Rider

  41. #41
    Calm like a Bomb
    Reputation: stunzeed's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    1,070
    Quote Originally Posted by NoahColorado
    We made a special original G2 for the original 951 where the ISCG05 holes were rotated, but the angle of the guide was the same.

    Pretty certain there are no issues with the G2SL on either the orignal 951 or the 2011. Intense specs the G2SL in their build kits. But a call to Intense might be in order.

    Def. don't need the what we call the "wide-angle", that's for bikes like Canfield and K-9 with idler pulleys.
    Is the original rotated version available for sale?

  42. #42
    GUIDANCE COUNSELOR
    Reputation: NoahColorado's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Posts
    3,766
    We actually shipped the remainder of our stock to Intense yesterday, so they've got 'em.
    NOAH SEARS
    MRP - VP of Business Development
    Pivot Cycles - Team Rider

  43. #43
    GUIDANCE COUNSELOR
    Reputation: NoahColorado's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Posts
    3,766
    Quote Originally Posted by SHIVER ME TIMBERS
    thanks...after I order mine

    how much lighter compared to the regular Mini GL??
    ~34g, all other parts are the same so that weight savings is purely in the backplate. The Mini G2 SL Carbon ISCG weighed in at ~140g IIRC.
    NOAH SEARS
    MRP - VP of Business Development
    Pivot Cycles - Team Rider

  44. #44
    mtbr member
    Reputation: gticlay's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    6,654
    Quote Originally Posted by NoahColorado
    ~34g, all other parts are the same so that weight savings is purely in the backplate. The Mini G2 SL Carbon ISCG weighed in at ~140g IIRC.
    Are those in stock now?
    "It looks flexy"

  45. #45
    Glad to Be Alive
    Reputation: SHIVER ME TIMBERS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    42,929
    For 34 grams get the non carbon
    Quote Originally Posted by gticlay
    Are those in stock now?
    the trick is ENJOYING YOUR LIFE EACH DAY, don't waste them away wishing for better days

  46. #46
    GUIDANCE COUNSELOR
    Reputation: NoahColorado's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Posts
    3,766
    We're currently testing them, no ETA as of yet.
    NOAH SEARS
    MRP - VP of Business Development
    Pivot Cycles - Team Rider

  47. #47
    Oh, So Interesting!
    Reputation: davec113's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    4,700
    G2 SL Mini has been great on my trailbike. Many rides and quite a few rock hits and it's doing fine. I try not to just bash into stuff though, I haven't hit anything REALLY hard. When I do I consider it a MISTAKE and expect to possibly break something.

  48. #48
    mtbr member
    Reputation: russthedog's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    8
    hi guys, hopefully this hasnt been asked elsewhere - i couldnt find it anywhere. is the MRP Mini G2 SL Skid Plate interchangeable with the standard G2 SL? I wouldnt mind getting some small increase in clearance

  49. #49
    Glad to Be Alive
    Reputation: SHIVER ME TIMBERS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    42,929
    Quote Originally Posted by russthedog View Post
    hi guys, hopefully this hasnt been asked elsewhere - i couldnt find it anywhere. is the MRP Mini G2 SL Skid Plate interchangeable with the standard G2 SL? I wouldnt mind getting some small increase in clearance
    call MRP.. just to make sure just call...MRP guys are really helpful
    Last edited by SHIVER ME TIMBERS; 12-04-2011 at 11:42 PM.
    the trick is ENJOYING YOUR LIFE EACH DAY, don't waste them away wishing for better days

  50. #50
    GUIDANCE COUNSELOR
    Reputation: NoahColorado's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Posts
    3,766
    Quote Originally Posted by russthedog View Post
    hi guys, hopefully this hasnt been asked elsewhere - i couldnt find it anywhere. is the MRP Mini G2 SL Skid Plate interchangeable with the standard G2 SL? I wouldnt mind getting some small increase in clearance
    No, only the lower and upper guides, pulleys, and hardware are interchangeable between the two. The backplate and skid are unique to each.

    Cheers
    NOAH SEARS
    MRP - VP of Business Development
    Pivot Cycles - Team Rider

  51. #51
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    358
    SMT....I have ridden with one for a little over 2 months. 15mm more clearance. I have it set up with a 32 t front ring, 9-26 in the back. Canfield micro drive 9t hub works so well with this !

  52. #52
    Glad to Be Alive
    Reputation: SHIVER ME TIMBERS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    42,929
    Quote Originally Posted by gollub01 View Post
    SMT....I have ridden with one for a little over 2 months. 15mm more clearance. I have it set up with a 32 t front ring, 9-26 in the back. Canfield micro drive 9t hub works so well with this !
    awesome product...low low weight and it just works...I pound mine on rocks all the time. I have been riding with MRP since 2002...there company rocks !!!love the customer service they provide
    the trick is ENJOYING YOUR LIFE EACH DAY, don't waste them away wishing for better days

  53. #53
    mtbr member
    Reputation: KAZU's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    124
    Quote Originally Posted by tuumbaq View Post
    anything that simply slips between the frame and BB WILL move on first impact which, to me would be VERY annoying...

    I too heard of a few people breaking their rather easily...On my trailbike , maybe, for my DH ,I think I'll pass on this one.
    I have been smashing mine against logs for a while now and it hasn't moved at all.


    This is my review of my experiences with the G2 Mini from a while ago.


    Since I didn't see anybody from Straight line talking up their stuff, which I'm sure is just fine, I thought I would give MRP a try. I was settled on the S4, however, by chance, I walked into a bike store that unfortunately was going out of business.

    Fortunate for me they had all their merchandise wicked cheap. I got a bunch of stuff including the G2.

    I thought for the price I got it for might as well give it a shot, maybe I'll like it.

    I have five days on it and for me it was a pretty hard five days on it.




    The bad:

    First, I was not impressed with the finish of the product the machined edges are really sharp, like cut you open sharp, I do quite a bit of machining and that bothers me, just get the rounded bit for the extra $50 and make it smooth.

    Second, the composite looks and feels really brittle. If they used a softer compound it would do wonders for their product. Spend the extra money on the plastic, with nylotron you would have a completely silent and self lubricating product. This is the part that they need to focus on.

    The plastic has grind marks on it to smooth out the injection site. If they used UHMW or delrin or nylatron they can fire the guy that does the grinding and make up the cost by replacing him with a guy with cutters.

    The good:

    Last week did two days of XC with it installed, worked flawlessly.

    On the bike stand in from the middle gear to the highest gear it rubs the upper chain retainer and it makes noise.

    On the trail I couldn't hear it over my awesomeness.

    No really it either blends with the load on the gears or the chain being tight and under load makes a difference.

    This weekend I did 3 days of lift riding and it was moist out, not raining but sloppy from the snow melt off.

    The MRP G2 worked great.

    I have no complaints about it's performance. I did install the orings like suggested and the only time I could hear it was in the super rocky sections where I assume the chain is slapping the top of the top guide.

    I did the biggest drop I've ever done this weekend and the chain stayed on and I didn't hear it, but I probably didn't hear it over the terror I was experiencing.

    It cleared the mud and was not louder than any of my other components on the bike.



    To summarize:

    So far I'm really happy with it, but what worries me is that I never really smacked it off of anything going at speed. There is nothing thus far that indicated the product will fail, but only time will tell. So far I recommend it.

  54. #54
    Oh, So Interesting!
    Reputation: davec113's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    4,700
    Quote Originally Posted by KAZU View Post

    So far I'm really happy with it, but what worries me is that I never really smacked it off of anything going at speed. There is nothing thus far that indicated the product will fail, but only time will tell. So far I recommend it.
    Just wait a while...

    Mine was fine at first, but IMO, a bb-mount guide with a taco is retarded. It does move when you hit things with it. Mine hit the chainstay and bent the backplate (G2 mini on the trailbike)

    The full size G2 on my dh bike bent over sideways.

    Lower guides are easy to break, very poorly designed, and stupid-expensive for what they are.

    I cannot recommend MRP guides anymore until they make some improvements.

    A friend recently installed a Straitline Silent Guide, after riding his bike, this is the guide I would go with.

  55. #55
    GUIDANCE COUNSELOR
    Reputation: NoahColorado's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Posts
    3,766
    Quote Originally Posted by davec113 View Post
    Just wait a while...

    Mine was fine at first, but IMO, a bb-mount guide with a taco is retarded. It does move when you hit things with it. Mine hit the chainstay and bent the backplate (G2 mini on the trailbike)

    The full size G2 on my dh bike bent over sideways.
    Sorry you had a bad experience, though we appreciate the feedback.

    I'm curious why you purchased a G2 BB-mount guide if you thought they were flawed - we make other designs as well (like the S4) that use a traditional crank-mounted bash guard and thus are less likely to rotate. We wish every bike had ISCG tabs, but unfortunately they don't (some don't even have thread-in BB's either, so mounting ANY appropriate chain guide becomes nearly impossible). We do think BB mounting is perfectly fine for "skid" style guides though and when tightened down appropriately slippage is rare - but again, we offer other style guides.

    I'm sorry your backplate bent on your DH rig, but it must have been a very serious hit to bend a 5mm thick aluminum plate. Was it the G2 Steel? The lower-priced steel models aren't as stiff - steel is more pliable than aluminum (but also more malleable so you can bend them back easier than alloy - I think I used those words right). We offer the G2 series at several price-points ($90, $150, and $220) so you can decide what balance of price, weight, and durability you'd prefer.

    As for the lower guides, we've made a few design changes that were implemented early on in G2 SL production. Anyone who has any issues is strongly encouraged to contact us (info -at - mrpbike.com). I've had several bikes with G2 and G2SL guides (I was even one of the first to have the pre-production G2 SL on my bike for testing before I worked for MRP) and have only ever broken one lower guide. That instance was during a crash though and the guide wasn't nearly as mangled as I was.

    Cheers
    NOAH SEARS
    MRP - VP of Business Development
    Pivot Cycles - Team Rider

  56. #56
    Oh, So Interesting!
    Reputation: davec113's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    4,700
    Quote Originally Posted by NoahColorado View Post
    Sorry you had a bad experience, though we appreciate the feedback.

    I'm curious why you purchased a G2 BB-mount guide if you thought they were flawed - we make other designs as well (like the S4) that use a traditional crank-mounted bash guard and thus are less likely to rotate. We wish every bike had ISCG tabs, but unfortunately they don't (some don't even have thread-in BB's either, so mounting ANY appropriate chain guide becomes nearly impossible). We do think BB mounting is perfectly fine for "skid" style guides though and when tightened down appropriately slippage is rare - but again, we offer other style guides.

    I'm sorry your backplate bent on your DH rig, but it must have been a very serious hit to bend a 5mm thick aluminum plate. Was it the G2 Steel? The lower-priced steel models aren't as stiff - steel is more pliable than aluminum (but also more malleable so you can bend them back easier than alloy - I think I used those words right). We offer the G2 series at several price-points ($90, $150, and $220) so you can decide what balance of price, weight, and durability you'd prefer.

    As for the lower guides, we've made a few design changes that were implemented early on in G2 SL production. Anyone who has any issues is strongly encouraged to contact us (info -at - mrpbike.com). I've had several bikes with G2 and G2SL guides (I was even one of the first to have the pre-production G2 SL on my bike for testing before I worked for MRP) and have only ever broken one lower guide. That instance was during a crash though and the guide wasn't nearly as mangled as I was.

    Cheers
    Yeah... live and learn I guess. It is a big problem that my frame does not have iscg tabs, and I'll never buy another bike that does not have them. My trailbike is a '09 Remedy. I think even a guide with a bashguard will move, but it'll take hitting the lower guide rather than the bash plate. Chainlove was blowing out Sunline guides with spring-loaded lower guide arms for $30, so I'm trying that. It's heavier than the g2 mini but if the spring loaded arm keeps the guide from rotating it'll be worth it. Anyway, after owning a bb mount g2 mini, I wish I would have bought a guide with a bashguard.

    My DH bike is a Session 88, the chainguide was well used for a couple full seasons and just folded over sideways. It was whatever guide comes stock on the bike. I broke one lower guide on the dh bike, one on the trailbike.

    If you saw the thread I started on chainguides on ridemonkey dh, I do have quite a few opinions on how to improve the g2. There are improvements that could be made across the board, from the top guide, backplate and lower... Mine performed great when new but didn't last as long as I'd like and replacement lower guides are far too expensive.

    - Top guide needs to be adjustable in-out. Chain has hit top guide on both my bikes in the largest cog, eventually wearing into the top guide.

    - backplate needs to be stiffer in the in-out direction, both of mine bent. 7075 alum or stiffening ribs would help

    -Bottom guide is fastened to the backplate using insubstantial hardware and threadlocker. A bolt with a safety nut slotted into the backplate to keep it from rotating (the kind with the nylon thread locker) would be a huge improvement.

    - Bottom guide needs to be molded with a metal sleeve where the bolt goes through so it is not as sensitive to torque, would make the guide much more robust. It's VERY easy to crack the $14 + shipping lower guide by applying only slightly too much torque

    -Roller gets too much crap in the bearing, needs to be protected from dirt better. They seize up if you don't make it a point to clean them regularly. The sliders on the Straitline guide seem to work better than rollers anyway...

    -Get rid of the stupid washer that's used as a spacer in the lower guide. Figure out a way to build it into the product.

    All in all, the product has used too many shortcuts to save money and IMO the design is basically good but fairly poorly executed.

  57. #57
    GUIDANCE COUNSELOR
    Reputation: NoahColorado's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Posts
    3,766
    Your suggestions are appreciated. I think you'll find that in the current product, the G2 SL, we've implemented improvements in several of the areas you mentioned (further explained below).

    Quote Originally Posted by davec113 View Post

    My DH bike is a Session 88, the chainguide was well used for a couple full seasons and just folded over sideways. It was whatever guide comes stock on the bike. I broke one lower guide on the dh bike, one on the trailbike.
    One lower guide and one backplate in a couple seasons of DH use is pretty solid, IMO. I can think of several other, more expensive components on my big bike that I'd love to have lasted a few seasons - but it's DH and sometimes I crash.

    - backplate needs to be stiffer in the in-out direction, both of mine bent. 7075 alum or stiffening ribs would help
    The SL's backpalte does have more "ribbing" then the previous generation and now we offer it in carbon - which will flex instead of bend upon impact. Making the backplate thicker than it is currently would present fit issues on several bikes - we make our best effort to make our guides work on most bikes.

    -Bottom guide is fastened to the backplate using insubstantial hardware and threadlocker. A bolt with a safety nut slotted into the backplate to keep it from rotating (the kind with the nylon thread locker) would be a huge improvement.
    The SL uses captive hardware within the backplate and skid. The new alloy bolts with larger 4mm hex heads are treated with a thread locker.

    - Bottom guide needs to be molded with a metal sleeve where the bolt goes through so it is not as sensitive to torque, would make the guide much more robust. It's VERY easy to crack the $14 + shipping lower guide by applying only slightly too much torque
    The SL (and Lopes SL and 2x) feature a brass insert here. The new lower guides also have an additional fastener that enters from the back of the skid and thread into the sliding post.
    NOAH SEARS
    MRP - VP of Business Development
    Pivot Cycles - Team Rider

  58. #58
    Oh, So Interesting!
    Reputation: davec113's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    4,700
    That's true, I did get 2 seasons out of a part that bashed a lot of rocks. One of the optional lines on Jam Rock at Keystone did it in

    A carbon backplate might work well, and upgrading the material on the alum model to 7075 would also make a big difference. I wouldn't make it thicker but a couple of strategically placed ribs could help.

    The captive nut and threadlocker on the lower guide don't work well, IMO. I would use a standard nylock nut that set inside a channel in the backplate thats as wide as the nut, that way you wouldn't need a wrench to prevent the nut from spinning when it is assembled. The nylock nut could be replaced when the nylon threadlocker is worn out at any hardware store. On the current design, to be effective the threadlocker compound would need to be cleaned off the bolt and replaced every time the lower guide is disassembled, which happens often due to the need to clean the bearing in the roller. It's stretching it a bit to expect all your customers to make sure the lower roller is properly assembled with the stock hardware, a nylock nut would be far more "idiot proof". And the washer-spacer has got to go, that's bordering on ridiculous for a mass produced part, that kind of thing should be abandoned early in the prototype phase.

    The last lower guide I ordered (a couple months ago) did not have the brass insert. Brass is the best material for the purpose, but aluminum would work fine and save a few grams and a few pennies too. My guide did have the screw that went into the backplate from the backside, but again, this is a poor design lacking in durability. It is a very small screw that threads into plastic, which is a poor choice for it's intended use. This should also be a through hole/bolt with a metal sleeve.

    I understand my ideas would add weight and cost, but probably not too much of either... and it would make for much better product, IMO.

  59. #59
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    42
    On my 3rd ride with the Mini G2 SL, the Upper Guide cracked! I don't have any idea how or why and I did correctly torque it. I did not hit or anything so now my wallet is $20 lighter purchasing a new upper guide.

    If I break another one, I may have to switch over to a different chain guide!

  60. #60
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    42
    I give up! First ride out with the new upper guide, it broke. Maybe I'm unlucky or my chainline is not compatible with the MRP. Does look like a solid product.

    Converted to a Blackspire Stinger w/BBG Bashguard. No issues on the two rides with this new set-up.

    If anyone is interested in an MRP mini G2, BB Mount, 32T, without the upper and lower guides PM me. I'll give you a great deal!

  61. #61
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Posts
    2
    Hi I'm just wondering can mrp chain guides use TF2 extreme wet lubricant?

Members who have read this thread: 0

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

THE SITE

ABOUT MTBR

VISIT US AT

© Copyright 2019 VerticalScope Inc. All rights reserved.