My Saber is finally done - pics- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    My Saber is finally done - pics

    After bouncing back and forth between frames the past few months I finally have the bike I wanted done. Its my middle of the road, do everything bike. I've got the BigHit for DH and the P2 for urban so I needed something for trails/XC/some 4X and light DH. I was really happy with the Preston's geometry but it just didn't have enough travel. The Saber is almost identical except with 5-6" instead of 4-5". The addition of the Horst link is a big plus and frame weight is a bit less too. I rode today at our local DJ/4X spot and with a stiff 5" in back and the Pike dialed to 120mm it felt awesome!! Here's the specs:

    Frame: '04 Azonic Saber w/Romic (5-6")
    Fork: '06 Rock Shox Pike 426 Coil
    Shifters: SRAM X.9
    Front Derailleur: SRAM X-Gen
    Rear Derailleur: SRAM X.9 med cage
    Cranks: TruVativ Holzfellers
    BB: TruVativ GigaPipe DH
    Chainrings: 24,36
    Cassette: SARM Powerglide II
    Chain: SRAM PC-970
    Handlebar: FUNN (can't remember name)
    Headset: FSA Pig DH Pro
    Stem: FUNN Serial Killa
    Brakes: F-Avid BB7, R-Hayes HFX-9
    Wheels: F-EX721, R-Sun Rhyno Lite rear
    Tires: F-Kenda Nevegal 2.5 DH, R-Panaracer Fire XC 2.1
    Tubes: DH thick ass front, some random thin rear
    Grips: ODI Rogue
    Seat: WTB Power V
    Seatpost: Thomson
    Pedals: Weyless junkers from the parts pile

    Things I'm swapping out to:
    Avid Juicy's
    rear HighRoller or similar
    new rear wheel (its a loaner)
    QR seat collar (the first on my list)

    I was a little worried about having a silver fork on a silver frame but I don't mind it.
    I need a good real trail test to see how the Pike performs at full travel so I'm looking forward to the weekend




  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by tgreathead
    After bouncing back and forth between frames the past few months I finally have the bike I wanted done. Its my middle of the road, do everything bike. I've got the BigHit for DH and the P2 for urban so I needed something for trails/XC/some 4X and light DH. I was really happy with the Preston's geometry but it just didn't have enough travel. The Saber is almost identical except with 5-6" instead of 4-5". The addition of the Horst link is a big plus and frame weight is a bit less too. I rode today at our local DJ/4X spot and with a stiff 5" in back and the Pike dialed to 120mm it felt awesome!! Here's the specs
    Nice! Is it a large? Two friends I ride with had Sabers for a couple years. The medium one had the problem of the linkage plates hitting the seat QR when in the 6" mode. They were first year Sabers and eventually they both cracked their swingarms, but had no other problems once they got replacements.

    Fun bikes.

  3. #3
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    you suck i am so jealous....I want one bad....congrats to you biatch
    the trick is ENJOYING YOUR LIFE EACH DAY, don't waste them away wishing for better days

  4. #4
    ride hard take risks
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    HighRoller 2.35 rear tire, Azonic Q-R seat post clamps are the best, Rear wheel http://www.wtb.com/products/wheels_dualdutyfr.html

  5. #5
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    That is a really nice bike, congrats. That bike is a perfect all-mountain bike. Yeah I know, that term gets thrown around alot. But, you could ride that beast 20+ miles on the trail, jump the sh!t out of it, or take it off some nice sized drops. Don't worry about the silver fork with the silver frame, it looks pimp. The Pikes are great trail forks. I use mine for trail riding, dirt jumping, and downhill. Best single crown fork I have owned as far as price range and adjustablity. Enjoy.

  6. #6
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    Thanks for all the feedback guys, I am digging the silver more each time I see it.

    Danno - They did the sizing really weird, I have the 19" which is the biggest size but they call it a medium. They go down to a small (17) and X-small (16). It feels great, I can get over the bars on the climbs but also over the seat for going down. I read all about that 17" linkage problem, and that the 03's had crappy stays. I made sure I got the quality goods.

    dogonfr - I haven't decided about the rear tire yet, I've got a ton laying around but I am a fan of the HR in the back, hate them in front though. I was pissed, I went to Wheel World since they always have buckets of Azonic QR collars in stock but they're remodeling so they didn't have any! I'm getting sick of carrying an allen wrench already...

  7. #7
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    check cambria

    I went to Wheel World since they always have buckets of Azonic QR collars in stock but they're remodeling so they didn't have any! I'm getting sick of carrying an allen wrench already...
    www.cambriabike.com has them in many sizes

  8. #8
    rollin
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    that bike is sick!
    where'd you get the frame?
    how much?

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by mp29k
    www.cambriabike.com has them in many sizes
    Ya, but I'm one of those people that can't stand to pay shipping on something that my LBS has in stock. I usually only order online if my local shops won't match the price and after shipping its still better than buying local.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by sriracha
    that bike is sick!
    where'd you get the frame?
    how much?
    Thanks
    I got the frame off a guy on RideMonkey. We was local so we met up, it was basically new, he rode it once and decided he wanted more travel. I couldn't be happier with 5 & 6".
    WheelWorld has the frames in stock for $700 (a KILLER deal by the way) but I was able to score it for a really, really good price so I jumped on it.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by sriracha
    that bike is sick!
    where'd you get the frame?
    how much?
    my friend has a frame for sale for $350 i think, might be $300...
    SOCAL UNION REPREZENT
    Quote Originally Posted by JBsoxB
    does it still qualify as a mountainbike?
    Quote Originally Posted by kidwoo
    I've beat beer cans on my limp pee pee.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by tgreathead
    Danno - They did the sizing really weird, I have the 19" which is the biggest size but they call it a medium. They go down to a small (17) and X-small (16). It feels great, I can get over the bars on the climbs but also over the seat for going down. I read all about that 17" linkage problem, and that the 03's had crappy stays. I made sure I got the quality goods.
    I've been eyeing this frame for a while now and your build is just what I had in mind. Now the only real decission is what size? How tall are you? I'm 5'11" and some change and was thinking about the 17" but may be I should go for the 19". What do you think? Have you gotten to trail ride it yet? How does it handle? I'm very interested in your ride review. Thanks for the help.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Leprechaun
    I'm 5'11" and some change and was thinking about the 17" but may be I should go for the 19". What do you think?
    I'm about 5'8"~5'9", and I'm happy with my 17" frame ('04). Because of the 6"-mode prob with 17", 19" would be nice if you can get away with it, size-wise. For those of us not tall enough for 19", here's a remedy for an cheap/easy 5.64"-mode for 17"...
      http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?postid=1059051
    I'm 165lbs with gear, and - through trial & error - I settled on stacking 6 thinner rubber washers in the end. (You can find those in the plumbing aisle at local hardware stores.)




    Quote Originally Posted by tgreathead
    I went to Wheel World since they always have buckets of Azonic QR collars in stock but they're remodeling so they didn't have any! I'm getting sick of carrying an allen wrench already...
    I have a couple of QR collars that I tried on my Saber (before I settled on a Hope one) that I'm not using. I'll give/mail you one of them (dinged Salsa or clean Weyless), if you'd like. If interested, email me offline with your address. By the way, nice bike!


    Cheers,
    - PiroChu

    <P>

    PS. Here's mine...
    http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?postid=1412642


    <P>
    Last edited by PiroChu; 02-15-2006 at 01:23 PM.
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  14. #14
    kona-tize me captain
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    looks sick man, whats the weight on it
    Looking for a 7.87 x 2.25mm shock, any brand any age that runs well!! cheap would be appreciated!

  15. #15
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    Sweet...enjoy your new ride.
    "I push bike up and ride it down"

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by SOILWORK
    Sweet...enjoy your new ride.

    oh /.......................I hate you
    the trick is ENJOYING YOUR LIFE EACH DAY, don't waste them away wishing for better days

  17. #17
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    5.64" mode????

    Quote Originally Posted by PiroChu
    Because of the 6"-mode prob with 17", 19" would be nice if you can get away with it, size-wise. For those of us not tall enough for 19", here's a remedy for an cheap/easy 5.64"-mode for 17"...
    &nbsp; http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?postid=1059051
    I'm 165lbs with gear, and - through trial & error - I settled on stacking 6 thinner rubber washers in the end. (You can find those in the plumbing aisle at local hardware stores.)
    <P>

    So, how does this work? Due to the rocker interference in the 6" mode on the 17" frame, it will actually only get 5.64" of travel? But this doesn't happen on the 19" frame, which gets the full 6"? Seems like a real bummer if that's the case. I think I could probably fit the 19" but wanted my wife to be able to ride the frame too and she is around 5' 6 1/2".

  18. #18
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    My friend who was about 6' rode a large, and the other friend was around 5'9" and rode a medium. Both seemed to fit really good.

    The medium (17") had that seat collar problem, and yeah it was only in the 6" mode.

  19. #19
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    radical....
    member of the ZombiEKilleRSquadron
    "we kill zombies dead"

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  20. #20
    aka Jesse Palmer
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    I got some new bits for my saber a while ago
    Hope Bulb hubs, Alex FD28 rims
    Holzfeller Cranks
    X.9 shifters and rear deraileur

    I am really liking the 24/36 ring combo with 175mm crank arms. I tried running a 22/36 combo, but when you shift to the granny for climbing I didn't like the huge jump, the 36-24 is just right. The SRAM derailleurs are definately a good idea for a saber because shimanos beat themselves to death on the chainstay pivot, I was constantly taping and zipting stuff to my xt to keep it silent.

    I am being tempted to sell may saber however, we are getting sponsored by Morewood and Beyond Fabrications so I might finally get seperate DH and XC bikes. The saber is definately the ultimate all-purpose bike though. I raced everything on it for the 2005 WCCC MTB Season and won the Individual Men's C Omnium, so that pretty much proves it

  21. #21
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    5.64" travel

    Quote Originally Posted by Leprechaun
    So, how does this work? Due to the rocker interference in the 6" mode on the 17" frame, it will actually only get 5.64" of travel? But this doesn't happen on the 19" frame, which gets the full 6"? Seems like a real bummer if that's the case.
    Leprechaun,

    Yes, between the 2 modes in 2 frame sizes, only 6"-mode on 17" frame has a problem...
    &nbsp; * 17" in 5" = no prob
    &nbsp; * 17" in 6" = prob!! &nbsp; (5.64" travel with bumper fix)
    &nbsp; * 19" in 5" = no prob
    &nbsp; * 19" in 6" = no prob

    Long story short... With my 17" in 6", I came to this conclusion of 5.64" travel by using an air shock, letting the rocker bottom-out on the collar, then measuring the rubber ring on the air shock shaft. It "clunked" at about 48mm out of 51mm stroke (or 94%). So, 94% of 6" travel is 5.64" travel, assuming that 17" in 6" were to indeed yield 6" travel at the rear wheel. (Or, so it is "on paper".)

    If you're interested in reading the whole thing (long), here's the URL...
    http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?postid=959137

    Anyway, I'm pretty happy with this easy "fix" (posted in above URL), and have had no 'clunking' problems ever since. For me, 5.64" is enough, and I'm happily riding mine like that.


    <P>

    Quote Originally Posted by austinb89
    whats the weight on it
    austinb89,

    Were you asking about weight of tgreathead's Saber or mine? If mine, it's about 36.5lbs.

    <P>

    Cheers,
    - PiroChu
    Last edited by PiroChu; 02-15-2006 at 05:28 PM.
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  22. #22
    aka Jesse Palmer
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    Quote Originally Posted by PiroChu
    Leprechaun,

    Yes, between the 2 modes in 2 frame sizes, only 6"-mode on 17" frame has a problem...
    &nbsp; * 17" in 5" = no prob
    &nbsp; * 17" in 6" = prob!! &nbsp; (5.64" travel with bumper fix)
    &nbsp; * 19" in 5" = no prob
    &nbsp; * 19" in 6" = no prob

    Long story short... With my 17" in 6", I came to this conclusion of 5.64" travel by using an air shock, letting the rocker bottom-out on the collar, then measuring the rubber ring on the air shock shaft. It "clunked" at about 48mm out of 51mm stroke (or 94%). So, 94% of 6" travel is 5.64" travel, assuming that 17" in 6" were to indeed yield 6" travel at the rear wheel. (Or, so it is "on paper".)

    If you're interested in reading the whole thing (long), here's the URL...
    http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?postid=959137

    Anyway, I'm pretty happy with this easy "fix" (posted in above URL), and have had no 'clunking' problems ever since. For me, 5.64" is enough, and I'm happily riding mine like that.


    <P>


    austinb89,

    Were you asking about weight of tgreathead's Saber or mine? If mine, it's about 36.5lbs.

    <P>

    Cheers,
    - PiroChu
    I have mesuared the rear travel of the saber and it is exactly 6"
    To run my 17" frame in the 6" mode I just found a collar that didnt get in the way of the rocker plates from the lbs (I did file it slightly to make sure there was plenty of cleanence).

  23. #23
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    New question here. shaved QR collar ?

    Quote Originally Posted by jp3d
    I have mesuared the rear travel of the saber and it is exactly 6"
    To run my 17" frame in the 6" mode I just found a collar that didnt get in the way of the rocker plates from the lbs (I did file it slightly to make sure there was plenty of cleanence).

    jp3d,

    I remember your other post about this in another thread of the same topic, with this picture...

    Quote Originally Posted by jp3d
    Take the shock off, bust out the dremmel and cut away the back of the collar until you can bottom the frame on itself and not the clamp, them you should be fine. Cutting away the seatpost coller probably isn't going to make any difference at all as far as seat-clamping strength - I don't think a moddifed seat collar is ever going to fail.


    I'm still puzzled (and I was also puzzled back then) as to where on QR-collar you filed down by how much. Do you have another pic of your collar from a different angle to show this, so that we can see the "collar" better (not the "lever" so much)? That'll be a great help (visually), as I'm still very curious as to how you accomplished this successfully. If this is attainable, your method would be certainly more beneficial (to give back that last 0.36" of travel out of full-6" vs 5.64").


    By the way, first of all, just so that we're on the same page here... We are talking about the QR-collar / seat-tube hitting specifically against the "cross-bar" (bridging the "rocker plates"), not about hitting against the "rocker plates" on the side, correct? Depicted below are what I mean...

    &nbsp; PIC: "cross bar" (of "rocker plates") hitting the QR "collar"
    &nbsp; (REMEDY: by shaved QR vs by bumpers on shock?)


    &nbsp; vs

    &nbsp; PIC: "rocker plates" hitting the QR "lever"
    &nbsp; (REMEDY: by simply using a different QR)





    Don't get me wrong here - It's not that I don't believe you (so please don't get offended/upset), but it's just that - simply looking at my Hope QR "collar" (pic below) - I don't see much more material that can be shaved off to give back the shock that last 3mm of stroke...




    Anyway, I'd love to possibly get a full-6" out of my 17" frame, too, so I'm counting on your pic, please!

    Thanks for your info in advance,
    - PiroChu
    Last edited by PiroChu; 02-16-2006 at 10:28 AM.
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  24. #24
    aka Jesse Palmer
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    The collar I am using isnt as tall as the one on that hope looks like it is, so the cross bar can bottom out against the seat tube without hitting the collar at all. You could grind down that hope collar where the dent is untill it is short enough in the back to clear the crossbar, you wouldn't need to take off much material, and you can call it "tuned" and post it in the weight weenies forum

    The picture of the lever just shows the places where that was hitting, I bent it a little so the middle would clear the rocker and then filled the bottom of the end to make sure it wouldn't hit the crossbar. If you just run the lever facing foreward it isn't a problem, but it would have been in the way of my cables.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  25. #25
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    Ah, now I see what you're describing...

    Quote Originally Posted by jp3d
    so the cross bar can bottom out against the seat tube without hitting the collar at all
    jp3d,

    Thanks for taking the time to answer my question with a diagram.

    So, with your QR collar filed down, you're saying that your "cross bar" still hits against the seat tube itself upon full bottoming? That would certainly make sense as to what you've been describing...

    But, now I have a different question... Is letting the 'cross bar' to hit the seat tube OK? I mean, if a frame is designed well, shouldn't nothing on the frame bottom against each other upon full-bottoming? Ideally, shouldn't the only thing that "bottoms out" be the shock itself? For example, fully bottoming the 17"-frame in 5"-mode (or 19"-frame in either mode) doesn't let any frame pieces touch/hit each other, which I think is ideal/norm.

    Anyway, at least I think I understood your description this time (right?)... I think we just went with different approaches on this. You didn't want the cross bar to hit the QR collar and limit the travel (short of full-6" travel), so you filed down QR collar and let it travel a bit further by having the cross bar directly hit the seat tube instead (closer to full-6"). On the other hand, I didn't want anything (rocker plates or the cross bar) bottoming on anything (QR collar or seat tube); hence adding extra bumpers to my shock to slightly shorten the stroke to stop the travel just before anything hits anything (at 5.64"-travel).

    So, techincally, putting both approaches together, I could file down my QR collar and insert one or two less thin stacking bumpers in order to squeeze out just a tiny bit more travel (closer to full-6") without anything hitting anything. By the way, I say "closer to full 6-inch" (not "full 6-inch") because, when I experimented in my garage to bottom out with "an air shock & no QR collar", it still measured a bit short of a full 2" (or 51mm) stroke upon the cross bar hitting the seat tube. (Closer, but not fully.) Anyway, all that to use both approaches seems like a lot of work...


    Thanks again for your clerification,
    - PiroChu
    Last edited by PiroChu; 02-16-2006 at 04:47 PM.
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  26. #26
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    lucky I am getting the 19 inch....nice info
    the trick is ENJOYING YOUR LIFE EACH DAY, don't waste them away wishing for better days

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by PiroChu
    By the way, I say "closer to full 6-inch" (not "full 6-inch") because, when I experimented in my garage to bottom out with "an air shock & no QR collar", it still measured a bit short of a full 2" (or 51mm) stroke upon the cross bar hitting the seat tube. (Closer, but not fully.)
    - PiroChu
    I have done some measuring also (just with the shock off), just measuring the distance from one shock mount to the other, which should be 7.5 - 2 = 5.5inches, and I didn't have the crossbar thing hit the seat tube, also measuring the wheel travel from 7.5 to 5.5 i got 6 inches exactly. I bottomed the rear end out hard last week casing some little jumps and I can't see any marks on the seat tube from the cross bar hitting. Maybe the air shock has a longer stroke or shorter eye to eye length than the romic?

    By the way... another issue that I had with the shock mounting was the need to use some thin washers on either side of the lower reducing hardware to get proper clamping in the frame. Either the tabs on my frame are a tiny bit too wide or the reducers are a little too short, but either way if you dont have a really solid clamp on the lower reducers they will develope play in them quickly because the mounting bolt will wear the reducer instead of the bushings. confused?

  28. #28
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    lower shock-mounting tabs (22mm/spec)

    jp3d,

    Thanks for your further feedback, and I'm really enjoying this discussion.


    <P>


    Quote Originally Posted by jp3d
    I have done some measuring also (just with the shock off), just measuring the distance from one shock mount to the other, which should be 7.5 - 2 = 5.5inches, and I didn't have the crossbar thing hit the seat tube, also measuring the wheel travel from 7.5 to 5.5 i got 6 inches exactly.
    Unfortunately, I no longer have the air shock (5th Air) with me, so I can't measure mine with an air shock again. But I'll try to measure mine again without a shock this time (like you did), and see how it goes... Thanks for the tip.


    <P>


    Quote Originally Posted by jp3d
    another issue that I had with the shock mounting was the need to use some thin washers on either side of the lower reducing hardware to get proper clamping in the frame. Either the tabs on my frame are a tiny bit too wide
    Mine's the same way about the lower shock tabs on the downtube. I actually picked up a digital scale for this purpose (nerd! ), and mine was about 22.74mm (or something like that - can't remember exactly now - but not exactly the spec'ed 22.00mm). So I also have a thin (0.5mm?) washer jammed in there for good clamping. If I broke/lost that thin washer, I'm practically toast!


    Luckily BETD in UK offers something called "Strong Bushes" in the near-22mm sizes (22.00mm, 22.40mm, 22.75mm). Also, I noticed that PUSH offers something called "Factory Hardware Kit" nowadays, and I wonder if those are in custom-made sizes...?




    Cheers,
    - PiroChu
    Last edited by PiroChu; 02-16-2006 at 08:25 PM.
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  29. #29
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    Where?

    Quote Originally Posted by tgreathead
    After bouncing back and forth between frames the past few months I finally have the bike I wanted done. Its my middle of the road, do everything bike. I've got the BigHit for DH and the P2 for urban so I needed something for trails/XC/some 4X and light DH. I was really happy with the Preston's geometry but it just didn't have enough travel. The Saber is almost identical except with 5-6" instead of 4-5". The addition of the Horst link is a big plus and frame weight is a bit less too. I rode today at our local DJ/4X spot and with a stiff 5" in back and the Pike dialed to 120mm it felt awesome!! Here's the specs:

    Frame: '04 Azonic Saber w/Romic (5-6")
    Fork: '06 Rock Shox Pike 426 Coil
    Shifters: SRAM X.9
    Front Derailleur: SRAM X-Gen
    Rear Derailleur: SRAM X.9 med cage
    Cranks: TruVativ Holzfellers
    BB: TruVativ GigaPipe DH
    Chainrings: 24,36
    Cassette: SARM Powerglide II
    Chain: SRAM PC-970
    Handlebar: FUNN (can't remember name)
    Headset: FSA Pig DH Pro
    Stem: FUNN Serial Killa
    Brakes: F-Avid BB7, R-Hayes HFX-9
    Wheels: F-EX721, R-Sun Rhyno Lite rear
    Tires: F-Kenda Nevegal 2.5 DH, R-Panaracer Fire XC 2.1
    Tubes: DH thick ass front, some random thin rear
    Grips: ODI Rogue
    Seat: WTB Power V
    Seatpost: Thomson
    Pedals: Weyless junkers from the parts pile

    Things I'm swapping out to:
    Avid Juicy's
    rear HighRoller or similar
    new rear wheel (its a loaner)
    QR seat collar (the first on my list)

    I was a little worried about having a silver fork on a silver frame but I don't mind it.
    I need a good real trail test to see how the Pike performs at full travel so I'm looking forward to the weekend
    did you get your frame?? Looks different that the ones that I have found online.

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by PiroChu
    jp3d,

    Thanks for your further feedback, and I'm really enjoying this discussion.


    <P>



    Unfortunately, I no longer have the air shock (5th Air) with me, so I can't measure mine with an air shock again. But I'll try to measure mine again without a shock this time (like you did), and see how it goes... Thanks for the tip.


    <P>



    Mine's the same way about the lower shock tabs on the downtube. I actually picked up a digital scale for this purpose (nerd! ), and mine was about 22.74mm (or something like that - can't remember exactly now - but not exactly the spec'ed 22.00mm). So I also have a thin (0.5mm?) washer jammed in there for good clamping. If I broke/lost that thin washer, I'm practically toast!


    Luckily BETD in UK offers something called "Strong Bushes" in the near-22mm sizes (22.00mm, 22.40mm, 22.75mm). Also, I noticed that PUSH offers something called "Factory Hardware Kit" nowadays, and I wondered if those can be custom-made sizes?




    Cheers,
    - PiroChu
    Push does everything
    the trick is ENJOYING YOUR LIFE EACH DAY, don't waste them away wishing for better days

  31. #31
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    Folks, I'm ~5'10", where 32" length jeans, weigh about 190. What size Saber- 17" or could I comfortably fit the 19"? From what I've seen online, they're calling the 17" (small) and the 19" medium?

    Any help would be great.

  32. #32
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    WOW, all these replies around 2/16 I never saw since MTBR's email system was messed up. Sorry I hadn't gotten back to you all

    chris87114 - I love mine the size it is. I thought about getting the 17" at one point but the 19" fits me absolutely perfect. That being said I bet the 17" would probably fit you perfectly.

    austinb89 - haven't had it officially weighed but its sub 40 pounds, probably about 38 with the current setup. I now have the Minion 2.35 rear (not DH casing) and Avid Juicy 7s. Other than that the build is unchanged.

    I am freaking loving this bike. I bought another set of lighter wheels that I'm going to make my XC set, light tires & tubes for easy swapping. I'm also toying with the idea of getting the 06 Boxxer Ride with U-Turn. Being able to do serious runs at 170mm and still be able to climb back up 130mm with the compression locked out would be dreamy...


  33. #33
    [email protected] NYC Freerider
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    how do you like the saber compared to the bighit? intreasting job you got...

  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by tgreathead
    I now have the Minion 2.35 rear (not DH casing)
    Yeah Really!


  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Master_Jako
    how do you like the saber compared to the bighit? intreasting job you got...
    I love my Saber for everything. I really only rode the BigHit a handful of times and the biggest trail I rode it on was Mt. Wilson. If you see from some of our other posts it hardly warrants a BigHit. For the type of riding I do I much prefer the Saber.

    hahaha, I don't actually do that work work but more for fun. My day job is as an Assistant Editor. I haven't worked on a set since last year but I'd rather do camera work for fun.

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nagaredama
    Yeah Really!
    DAMN YOU WEAK CASING!!!

    Flat record:
    tgreathead: at least 7
    nargaredama: I think 1

  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by tgreathead
    DAMN YOU WEAK CASING!!!

    Flat record:
    tgreathead: at least 7
    nargaredama: I think 1
    Saturday I will drop my rear tire down to 25 psi in hopes of getting a flat for the second time ever!

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nagaredama
    Saturday I will drop my rear tire down to 25 psi in hopes of getting a flat for the second time ever!
    What tubes are you using? Still have the Maxxis DH?

  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by tgreathead
    What tubes are you using? Still have the Maxxis DH?
    Yup Yup

  40. #40
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    I ride a 19 inch.............have a 66 and it weighs 39.5 before I put it on a diet
    the trick is ENJOYING YOUR LIFE EACH DAY, don't waste them away wishing for better days

  41. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by SHIVER ME TIMBERS
    I ride a 19 inch.............have a 66 and it weighs 39.5 before I put it on a diet
    Lets see some pics Bob!

    Which 66 is on there?

  42. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by SHIVER ME TIMBERS
    I ride a 19 inch.............have a 66 and it weighs 39.5 before I put it on a diet
    What shock you gonna use?

  43. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nagaredama
    Yup Yup
    Now that I have the second set of wheels for XC I'll swap out my tubes for the crazy thick ass tubes I have. NO MORE FLATS!!!!

  44. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nagaredama
    Lets see some pics Bob!

    Which 66 is on there?

    maybe this weekend or next week
    the trick is ENJOYING YOUR LIFE EACH DAY, don't waste them away wishing for better days

  45. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by tgreathead
    What shock you gonna use?
    stock romic ...getting a ti spring or air shock.any air recommendations
    the trick is ENJOYING YOUR LIFE EACH DAY, don't waste them away wishing for better days

  46. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by SHIVER ME TIMBERS
    stock romic ...getting a ti spring or air shock.any air recommendations
    I might go the same way and get a Ti spring at some point. I like the Romic. I want to try a DHX Air at some point but I heard they're having problems with integrity.
    How much weight does the Ti spring drop? Its probably a lost cause since I don't have a bunch of super-light parts anyway. My next adventure may be going tubeless...

  47. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by SHIVER ME TIMBERS
    stock romic ...getting a ti spring or air shock.any air recommendations
    Does your compression work? Mine doesn't, got one of "those." I have to send it in at some point.

  48. #48
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    ti spring should shed 1/2 lb or so.. dependent on spring length of course..

    taylor,, im now a member of the transition cult to.. ToP baby!

  49. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by fiddy_ryder
    ti spring should shed 1/2 lb or so.. dependent on spring length of course..

    taylor,, im now a member of the transition cult to.. ToP baby!
    So I heard, back to hardtail pride. Got any pics? (direct me to another thread, don't want to hijack this beautiful Saber shrine I've built )

  50. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by tgreathead
    Does your compression work? Mine doesn't, got one of "those." I have to send it in at some point.

    we should talk.....I can get it done
    the trick is ENJOYING YOUR LIFE EACH DAY, don't waste them away wishing for better days

  51. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by tgreathead
    So I heard, back to hardtail pride. Got any pics? (direct me to another thread, don't want to hijack this beautiful Saber shrine I've built )
    dj forum on RM

  52. #52
    Justin Vander Pol
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    Saber pride - just like an RFX, but better!

    You'll love your bike. Mine has 2 1/2 years of hard Northwest abuse and still runnning strong. Let's see, 1 cracked chainstay (warrantied to the newer stronger one), one cracked seat tube mast from a nasty, nasty crash (sawed off - perfect!), a half-dozen or so rear der's, a couple broken seats, 5 or 6 flat spots in rear wheels, and still going strong.

  53. #53
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    ok here is mine
    Last edited by SHIVER ME TIMBERS; 12-27-2006 at 10:25 AM.
    the trick is ENJOYING YOUR LIFE EACH DAY, don't waste them away wishing for better days

  54. #54
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    Those of you on 19" sabers. How tall are you? What's your inseam?

  55. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by chris87114
    Those of you on 19" sabers. How tall are you? What's your inseam?
    a little over 6 feet....215 pounds 33 inseam
    the trick is ENJOYING YOUR LIFE EACH DAY, don't waste them away wishing for better days

  56. #56
    Justin Vander Pol
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    about 6'2" with 34" inseam - running a 90mm stem for xc. But it's your torso and top tube length that really matters when sizing a bike.

  57. #57
    Magic Man
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    Nice...both you and SMT have sweet builds.
    She said "No, you're wrong." I said "You got a lumpy butt." She got mad at me and yelled at me and I pissed in my pants and I never did change my pee-pants all day. I'm still sittin' in my dirty pee-pants.

  58. #58
    Transition Blindside v5
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    New question here. How do you like the WTB Power V saddle on your Saber?

    Quote Originally Posted by tgreathead
    Seat: WTB Power V
    tgreathead,

    I noticed that you have a WTB Power V saddle on your Saber. How do you like it? Do you do much climbing with your Saber, or mainly shuttling?

    My Laser V Stealth's Ti rails are getting bent, and I'm in a market for a new saddle for my Saber.

    So, should I get a bigger-sized Power-series saddle (152mm x 307mm) this time, or stick to the regular-sized Laser/Speed series (147mm x 269mm) or Pure/Rocket series (150mm x 277mm) again?

    I do have to climb up (with seatpost fully extended) to earn all the descends here, so I'm wondering whether or not this bigger Power-V profile (w/ 38mm-longer nose) gets in a way when climbing. Also, is a long nose simply an overkill, unless one attempts a no-hander, etc.? (No, I'm not looking for something quite super-big like Azonic Love Seat or Big Drop.)

    Thanks for your feedback in advance,
    - PiroChu
    Last edited by PiroChu; 04-10-2006 at 11:42 PM.
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  59. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by PiroChu
    tgreathead,

    I noticed that you have a WTB Power V saddle on your Saber. How do you like it? Do you do much climbing with your Saber, or mainly shuttling?

    - PiroChu
    TGreathead bought that seat because I had one. It is by far the most comfortable seat I have ever owned and I am pretty sure Taylor would say the same for him.

    Unfortunately I can't seem to find that exact model for sale anywhere. My Yeti has the DH version which isn't quite as comfortable.

    If you know of somewhere that has them in stock please let me know!
    Last edited by Nagaredama; 04-11-2006 at 09:29 AM.

  60. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nagaredama
    It is by far the most comfortable seat I have every owned
    Nagaredama, thanks for your quick feedback. Sounds great for seat-down descending, but how about for extended climbing? Does the bigger size get in a way while climbing? Is this strictly a descending saddle? Is it a total overkill for all-mtn/light-FR riding?


    Quote Originally Posted by Nagaredama
    Unfortunately I can't seem to find that exact model for sale anywhere. If you know of somewhere that has them in stock please let me know!
    I don't know if this is exactly the same as your "Power V" saddle, but Performance has a "WTB Power V DH Race" saddle on-sale for $22 right now...


    Cheers,
    - PiroChu
    Last edited by PiroChu; 04-11-2006 at 09:58 AM.

  61. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by PiroChu
    Nagaredama, thanks for your quick feedback. Sounds great for seat-down descending, but how about for extended climbing? Does the bigger size get in a way while climbing? Is this strictly a descending saddle? Is it an overkill for all-mtn/light-FR riding?




    I don't know if this is exactly the same as your "Power" saddle, but Performance has a "WTB Power V DH Race" saddle on-sale for $22 right now.


    Cheers,
    - PiroChu

    The Power V came on my KHS FR2000 which used for everything. Days at Big Bear, 15+ XC and Road ride, jumping, etc. The rails finally bent in either a car accident or when the saddle was on my hard tail. I also weight 220lbs so I am pretty hard on those rail.

    My AS-X has the Power V DH race on it. If I have padded shorts on the saddle isn't that bad. If I want to cruise to the market in jeans with no chamois the thing is painful. Over the weekend I did quite a bit of climbing on it and it felt pretty good. For $22 you can't go wrong.

  62. #62
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    This is my Saber

    It just died month ago. The chainstay has a 5mm crack at the CNC hollow area just behind the main pivot. The new version Saber no longer uses such design. So this may not be an isloated case. It is a good bike when it was ALIVE though.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  63. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nagaredama
    Days at Big Bear, 15+ XC and Road ride, jumping, etc. ........ Over the weekend I did quite a bit of climbing on it and it felt pretty good.
    Nagaredama ("流れ弾"?), that sounds good, thanks. Then I guess I'll pick up a bigger-sized "Power V DH Race" saddle, instead of a regular-sized "Speed V Race" saddle (on-sale for $28 at Performance). I'll check it out. (So, its surface is a bit stiffer than others, huh?)

    By the way, since I'm a big(ger)-saddle newbie... What's a bigger-sized saddle for, generally? I can see that the longer nose for knee-pinching for no-hander and for hand-grabbing on super-man (neither of which I can do). And I know that 8mm/cromo rails are for strength, for missing a no-footer (& have the butt slam on the seat. Did I miss anything else? I tell you, those 'product descriptions' seen on websites are more confusing than not...

    Thanks again,
    - PiroChu
    Last edited by PiroChu; 04-11-2006 at 09:59 AM.
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  64. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by eastpeak
    It just died month ago. The chainstay has a 5mm crack at the CNC hollow area just behind the main pivot. The new version Saber no longer uses such design. So this may not be an isloated case. It is a good bike when it was ALIVE though.

    call azonic 800-326-6325....maybe they will take care of you....instead of the chainstay....you might get a newer version of the bike
    the trick is ENJOYING YOUR LIFE EACH DAY, don't waste them away wishing for better days

  65. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by tgreathead
    After bouncing back and forth between frames the past few months I finally have the bike I wanted done. Its my middle of the road, do everything bike. I've got the BigHit for DH and the P2 for urban so I needed something for trails/XC/some 4X and light DH. I was really happy with the Preston's geometry but it just didn't have enough travel. The Saber is almost identical except with 5-6" instead of 4-5". The addition of the Horst link is a big plus and frame weight is a bit less too. I rode today at our local DJ/4X spot and with a stiff 5" in back and the Pike dialed to 120mm it felt awesome!! Here's the specs:

    Frame: '04 Azonic Saber w/Romic (5-6")
    Fork: '06 Rock Shox Pike 426 Coil
    Shifters: SRAM X.9
    Front Derailleur: SRAM X-Gen
    Rear Derailleur: SRAM X.9 med cage
    Cranks: TruVativ Holzfellers
    BB: TruVativ GigaPipe DH
    Chainrings: 24,36
    Cassette: SARM Powerglide II
    Chain: SRAM PC-970
    Handlebar: FUNN (can't remember name)
    Headset: FSA Pig DH Pro
    Stem: FUNN Serial Killa
    Brakes: F-Avid BB7, R-Hayes HFX-9
    Wheels: F-EX721, R-Sun Rhyno Lite rear
    Tires: F-Kenda Nevegal 2.5 DH, R-Panaracer Fire XC 2.1
    Tubes: DH thick ass front, some random thin rear
    Grips: ODI Rogue
    Seat: WTB Power V
    Seatpost: Thomson
    Pedals: Weyless junkers from the parts pile

    Things I'm swapping out to:
    Avid Juicy's
    rear HighRoller or similar
    new rear wheel (its a loaner)
    QR seat collar (the first on my list)

    I was a little worried about having a silver fork on a silver frame but I don't mind it.
    I need a good real trail test to see how the Pike performs at full travel so I'm looking forward to the weekend




    Damn this is a ****ing sexxxy a$$ bike..... that cost alot? hows the preformance?
    damn... if that bike was a lady.........id be cumming right now
    lol...
    sweet bike

  66. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by SHIVER ME TIMBERS
    call azonic 800-326-6325....maybe they will take care of you....instead of the chainstay....you might get a newer version of the bike
    No luck with the warranty...I live in Taiwan. The distrubitor of this frame is Xtension. They offer only one year warranty and it was void when I cracked the frame. I bought it around one year and half ago.

  67. #67
    Justin Vander Pol
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    Quote Originally Posted by PiroChu
    By the way, since I'm a big(ger)-saddle newbie... What's a bigger-sized saddle for, generally?
    Bigger saddle is great for technical climbing, especially on a bike with slightly slack geometry like the 68.5 degrees I'm running on my Saber. It allows you to scoot forward onto the nose of the saddle and seated climb up techy, rocky stuff and keep your weight nice and balanced on both wheels. Works wonders once you're used to it and then suddenly there's absolutely no reason for a steep, old-school head angle.

    The older PowerV Stealth saddles had narrower noses and ti rails - they were a great trailbike saddle (except that ti rails always break). The new PowerV DH is a tank with oversized chro-mo rails and a wide nose. It's great on my DH bike, but it would be too wide in the nose for my tastes on xc rides.

  68. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dnovick104
    Damn this is a ****ing sexxxy a$$ bike..... that cost alot? hows the preformance?
    damn... if that bike was a lady.........id be cumming right now
    lol...
    sweet bike
    Hahahaha
    I hand picked each piece and scored some killer deals in the process. Since I technically bought all the parts in the off season I got massive deals on components. I carried a few things over from a previous bike (stem, bars, seat, shifters, RD, front wheel) but everything else was bought new (except the frame). I spent under $1500 for everything and the full build would easily cost more than $2500.
    I love this bike. It fits me like a glove and I am constantly amazed how much fun I have on it. At some point I'm going to get a DC fork to try on it. I love my Pike but there have been a few times that I wish I had a bit more travel. The Pike, however, is my new favorite SC fork. I keep it long for descents and drop it down and crank the compression to climb.

  69. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by eastpeak
    No luck with the warranty...I live in Taiwan. The distrubitor of this frame is Xtension. They offer only one year warranty and it was void when I cracked the frame. I bought it around one year and half ago.
    lie when you got it...............
    the trick is ENJOYING YOUR LIFE EACH DAY, don't waste them away wishing for better days

  70. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nagaredama
    It is by far the most comfortable seat I have ever owned and I am pretty sure Taylor would say the same for him.
    Yup!!

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