Michelin DH 24 and DH 16 backwards?- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Michelin DH 24 and DH 16 backwards?

    I just got a set of Michelins for my VPFree. I am going to use a DH24 in the rear and a DH16 in the front. Looking at the tread, the ramps on the knobs look like they are facing the wrong way when mounted with the arrows facing in the direction the tires rotate. I was just wondering if any of you mount your Michelins with the arrow facing backwards? Sorry if this has been discussed before, but my search came up empty. Thanks in advace.

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    I do that with the 16 as well (if thats the one that looks similar to a Maxxis high roller). Kinda weird that Michelin does that tho with the arrow facing backwards

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    Michelin faces the direction arrow the way of most traction because thats what you want on auto tires and other tires. Reverse it to get less rolling resistance.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jamesdc
    Michelin faces the direction arrow the way of most traction because thats what you want on auto tires and other tires. Reverse it to get less rolling resistance.
    thats is 100% true now that i think of it

  5. #5
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    I stopped by the michelin support truck at crankworx 2 years ago, even their techs reccomended running their tires backwards.

    Incredible support by the way- I had a comp 24 that wasn't seating properly. They replaced/ warrantied it on the spot, did the install for me, even offerred to do some custom siping/knob removal to make it a better mud tire.

    michelin rocks

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    im sure they put the arrow facing that way for a reason...

    but you'd prob. get better traction with it backwards as said above

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    Quote Originally Posted by FM
    I stopped by the michelin support truck at crankworx 2 years ago, even their techs reccomended running their tires backwards.

    Incredible support by the way- I had a comp 24 that wasn't seating properly. They replaced/ warrantied it on the spot, did the install for me, even offerred to do some custom siping/knob removal to make it a better mud tire.

    michelin rocks
    I am the tech that runs that truck program and travels with the truck. If you see us and have a problem, I will do whatever I can to make things run properly.

    For the direction arrow, boy this is a question I answer all the time. Depending on what the conditions are, the tires works better either with the arrow or against it. With that being said, it is hard to guess which way to always put it on the bike. I can say this. We generally run the tires opposite the direction arrow. This is for 2 reasons. 1) It does help the rolling resistance and will be slightly faster. 2) The ramps get into the right position to aid in braking. The less "wordy" answer is that is brakes better and stronger facing the tire opposite the direction arrow.

    Hope this clears things up a little and if not, feel free to ask more questions......

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    Thanks for all the replies, looks like I'm mounting my tires with the arrows facing backwards.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Michelin Man
    I am the tech that runs that truck program and travels with the truck. If you see us and have a problem, I will do whatever I can to make things run properly.

    For the direction arrow, boy this is a question I answer all the time. Depending on what the conditions are, the tires works better either with the arrow or against it. With that being said, it is hard to guess which way to always put it on the bike. I can say this. We generally run the tires opposite the direction arrow. This is for 2 reasons. 1) It does help the rolling resistance and will be slightly faster. 2) The ramps get into the right position to aid in braking. The less "wordy" answer is that is brakes better and stronger facing the tire opposite the direction arrow.

    Hope this clears things up a little and if not, feel free to ask more questions......

    BIG QUESTION

    Why don't you make the 32AT in a 2.5 size along with the 2.8 that is my favorite tire

    also I was told the the 24 is better for turning by running it the right way in front and the rear it should be opposite for better rolling and stopping...what are your thoughts??

    Tons of riders want the 32AT in a 2.5 or 2.6 size...how do we get that across to the company
    Last edited by SHIVER ME TIMBERS; 02-26-2008 at 03:39 PM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by SHIVER ME TIMBERS
    BIG QUESTION

    Why don't you make the 32AT in a 2.5 size along with the 2.8 that is my favorite tire

    also I was told the the 24 is better for turning by running it the right way in front and the rear it should be opposite for better rolling and stopping...what are your thoughts??

    Tons of riders want the 32AT in a 2.5 or 2.6 size...how do we get that across to the company
    The only way that you (I) would want to run them in the direction of the arrow is on the rear on a bike that is used for pedaling..ie NOT a DH bike.

    For what you want on a DH bike..run the arrow backwards.

    SMT, if you want side/cornering traction on the DH 24, remove the intermediate side knobs. This leaves the low, straight-line rolling resistance and knob life that makes the 24 so good, but adds a bunch of cornering/edge grip in non blue groove and a bit of added mud shedding (not that I would ride a 24 in the mud, but it makes it better in more conditions).

    I agree with you about the 2.5 32, but I dont think that is ever going to come back. The cut 24 is very good in the same type of conditions (dryish,rocky, dusty).

    BTW the mich tires will 'expand' a bit over time if you leave them at high pressure for a bit....

    Up here, I always cut my 24s

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Michelin Man
    I am the tech that runs that truck program and travels with the truck. If you see us and have a problem, I will do whatever I can to make things run properly.

    For the direction arrow, boy this is a question I answer all the time. Depending on what the conditions are, the tires works better either with the arrow or against it. With that being said, it is hard to guess which way to always put it on the bike. I can say this. We generally run the tires opposite the direction arrow. This is for 2 reasons. 1) It does help the rolling resistance and will be slightly faster. 2) The ramps get into the right position to aid in braking. The less "wordy" answer is that is brakes better and stronger facing the tire opposite the direction arrow.

    Hope this clears things up a little and if not, feel free to ask more questions......
    I got a question for ya heheh. I bought a set of dh 24's about a few weeks ago, and I set em up tubeless. After taking about 3 to 4 riding days on em, the back one pierced through the top and the hole is too big to be sealed by tire sealant. So I was curious, is there any type of warranty or something on a case like that?
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    Quote Originally Posted by davep
    The only way that you (I) would want to run them in the direction of the arrow is on the rear on a bike that is used for pedaling..ie NOT a DH bike.

    For what you want on a DH bike..run the arrow backwards.

    SMT, if you want side/cornering traction on the DH 24, remove the intermediate side knobs. This leaves the low, straight-line rolling resistance and knob life that makes the 24 so good, but adds a bunch of cornering/edge grip in non blue groove and a bit of added mud shedding (not that I would ride a 24 in the mud, but it makes it better in more conditions).

    I agree with you about the 2.5 32, but I dont think that is ever going to come back. The cut 24 is very good in the same type of conditions (dryish,rocky, dusty).

    BTW the mich tires will 'expand' a bit over time if you leave them at high pressure for a bit....

    Up here, I always cut my 24s
    nah I cut them in the front....but the knobs are designed to corner the right direction (so I put them on the front rightway) rear backwards
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    Quote Originally Posted by acdcfan1283
    I got a question for ya heheh. I bought a set of dh 24's about a few weeks ago, and I set em up tubeless. After taking about 3 to 4 riding days on em, the back one pierced through the top and the hole is too big to be sealed by tire sealant. So I was curious, is there any type of warranty or something on a case like that?
    empty air.....super glue hole with hole at top(sealant at bottom)....let dry 30 seconds...re-inflate...spin tire....u r all good

    do not super glue with air in tire....glue will splatter on face...trust me...I learned from error
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  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by acdcfan1283
    I got a question for ya heheh. I bought a set of dh 24's about a few weeks ago, and I set em up tubeless. After taking about 3 to 4 riding days on em, the back one pierced through the top and the hole is too big to be sealed by tire sealant. So I was curious, is there any type of warranty or something on a case like that?
    Probably not a warranty but I have had great luck fixing cuts like that. Superglue has not worked well for me since it's brittle when dry. What I have done serval times is use a standard tube patch & glue on the inside of the tire, just make sure to sand the inside of the tire really well. Use plenty of glue on both the tire and patch, and let both dry for a good while before putting the patch on the tire. Put some glue or shoegoo on the outside too. Use a little stans or latex and you're good.

    If it's a really big cut, you can make a larger patch by cutting a 1x2" chunk out of another tires sidewall- road or XC tires are perfect for this.

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    Quote Originally Posted by SHIVER ME TIMBERS
    nah I cut them in the front....but the knobs are designed to corner the right direction (so I put them on the front rightway) rear backwards
    Do what you want, but no one runs them forward for DH type riding...for a reason. You are sacrificing braking traction where it matter the most (in the front) ...and they will roll faster in the 'reverse' direction. I have never felt a difference in side traction in tire direction...just in cut vs not cut.

    If you were concerned about traction, you would run them reverse of what you do. 'With arrow' in the back would give acceleration traction, reverse of arrow in front would give the most braking traction...both on the tires that can take advantage of said traction.

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    Thanks SMT and FM, ill give that a try
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    How about Michelin DH Mud 3

    Quote Originally Posted by Michelin Man
    I am the tech that runs that truck program and travels with the truck. If you see us and have a problem, I will do whatever I can to make things run properly.

    For the direction arrow, boy this is a question I answer all the time. Depending on what the conditions are, the tires works better either with the arrow or against it. With that being said, it is hard to guess which way to always put it on the bike. I can say this. We generally run the tires opposite the direction arrow. This is for 2 reasons. 1) It does help the rolling resistance and will be slightly faster. 2) The ramps get into the right position to aid in braking. The less "wordy" answer is that is brakes better and stronger facing the tire opposite the direction arrow.

    Hope this clears things up a little and if not, feel free to ask more questions......

    Hi
    Does whatever you said about fitting DH16/24 apply to DH Mud 3 tyre?
    thanks

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by tatankainlondon
    Hi
    Does whatever you said about fitting DH16/24 apply to DH Mud 3 tyre?
    thanks
    If your running mud 3's I doubt rolling resistance is a factor..
    "The future belongs to those that believe in the beauty of their dreams."

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    Quote Originally Posted by SHIVER ME TIMBERS
    BIG QUESTION

    Why don't you make the 32AT in a 2.5 size along with the 2.8 that is my favorite tire

    also I was told the the 24 is better for turning by running it the right way in front and the rear it should be opposite for better rolling and stopping...what are your thoughts??

    Tons of riders want the 32AT in a 2.5 or 2.6 size...how do we get that across to the company
    We have been asking the folks at Michelin France that same question for quite some time. Unfortunately, if they don't see it as a viable product, they will not make it. The best thing I can say is just keep asking for it and hopefully, someday, we will get it. I can say that every sales meetings we attend, that is one of the discussions that we have.

    For the DH16 and DH 24, I have always run them backwards both front and rear. Like I said before and other posters said, that lines up the ramps for better braking. I would think putting it backwards in the front would be more beneficiary because of this "extra braking power".

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    Quote Originally Posted by acdcfan1283
    I got a question for ya heheh. I bought a set of dh 24's about a few weeks ago, and I set em up tubeless. After taking about 3 to 4 riding days on em, the back one pierced through the top and the hole is too big to be sealed by tire sealant. So I was curious, is there any type of warranty or something on a case like that?
    We have never super glued tires on the circuit, but the one thing we have done is use a regular vulcanizing glue patch on the tire and run a tube or if the hole is small enough, just run a tube without the patch.

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    Quote Originally Posted by tatankainlondon
    Hi
    Does whatever you said about fitting DH16/24 apply to DH Mud 3 tyre?
    thanks
    I just looked at one of the Mud3s in my office and there was no direction arrow on them. If you do look at the tires though, you will see the center knobs have a small cut out on them. I always mount them up with the knobs in the back. I have just talked to others in the office and they didn't think it made much of a difference being the cutouts are so small. Like other posters said, rolling resistance isn't much of an issue, but I tend to think the cutouts will help with braking.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Michelin Man
    We have never super glued tires on the circuit, but the one thing we have done is use a regular vulcanizing glue patch on the tire and run a tube or if the hole is small enough, just run a tube without the patch.
    heheh, but I bought em to be run tubeless...so running a tube doesnt exactly solve my problem
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    Quote Originally Posted by acdcfan1283
    heheh, but I bought em to be run tubeless...so running a tube doesnt exactly solve my problem
    True, but if you pay 50 bucks for a tire once and Stans and a patch doesn't work to make it completely tubeless, running a tube will let you get some more life out of the tire.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Michelin Man
    We have never super glued tires on the circuit, but the one thing we have done is use a regular vulcanizing glue patch on the tire and run a tube or if the hole is small enough, just run a tube without the patch.
    I glue them all the time without problems.....

    man send another memo...I would be all over 2.5 or 2.6 32 A.T.'s
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    Quote Originally Posted by SHIVER ME TIMBERS
    man send another memo...I would be all over 2.5 or 2.6 32 A.T.'s
    One of the purposes of me checking out forums is to get feedback such as this. Now that I have suggestions like that, it will be easier for me to show France that this is what the US market wants and would use.

    Thanks for the feedback and keep it coming for things like this...

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Michelin Man
    One of the purposes of me checking out forums is to get feedback such as this. Now that I have suggestions like that, it will be easier for me to show France that this is what the US market wants and would use.

    Thanks for the feedback and keep it coming for things like this...
    many people I talk to feel the same.....we all love the tire but it is just too big....if you could get the weight down to 1000 grams then you would perhaps have the #1 selling tire
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    Quote Originally Posted by SHIVER ME TIMBERS
    many people I talk to feel the same.....we all love the tire but it is just too big....if you could get the weight down to 1000 grams then you would perhaps have the #1 selling tire

    Imagine the weight if the 2.8 was as big as the 2.7 Nevy.....both good tires. If you produce a 2.5 version of this tire, make it an actual 2.5 tire. The Michy 2.8 looks like a 2.6 in relation to other 2.7's
    "Why are you willing to take so much & leave others in need...just because you can?"

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    Quote Originally Posted by man w/ one hand
    Imagine the weight if the 2.8 was as big as the 2.7 Nevy.....both good tires. If you produce a 2.5 version of this tire, make it an actual 2.5 tire. The Michy 2.8 looks like a 2.6 in relation to other 2.7's
    true....the 2.8 use to be so huge and then 2 years ago they started making them smaller
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    Quote Originally Posted by SHIVER ME TIMBERS
    true....the 2.8 use to be so huge and then 2 years ago they started making them smaller
    This not true!! They have not changed any of the tires at all.


    You can however stretch most tires (mich certaily do this). A new 2.8 will be noticably smaller than one that has been ridden for a while. Since this tire never wears out, some get quite stretched over thier usefull lifetime.

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    Quote Originally Posted by davep
    This not true!! They have not changed any of the tires at all.


    You can however stretch most tires (mich certaily do this). A new 2.8 will be noticably smaller than one that has been ridden for a while. Since this tire never wears out, some get quite stretched over thier usefull lifetime.
    id agree with this statement actually. I bought my first DH bike (used) and the guy had a 2.8 dh32 on the front that he had ridden for 2 seasons, and it still had tread. But it was definitely stretched, because when i rode a new set of 32's on my apocalypse they looked thinner. But couldnt it also look wider based on width of the rim? I mean, i know part of it had to be the fact that the used dh32 was running on a modo rim, whereas the new ones were on a set of outlaws...i dunno
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    Cutting knobs on DH24

    Hi everyone,

    Can someone be more specific on which knobs are supposed to be cut off the DH24? Heres a bad attempt at an ASCII DH24

    I I - I I
    I = = I
    I I - I I
    I = = I
    I I - I I

    So should I be cutting I I, - (obviously not since this is the center knob), I, or = ?

    Thanks,
    Mike

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by gte213u
    Hi everyone,

    Can someone be more specific on which knobs are supposed to be cut off the DH24? Heres a bad attempt at an ASCII DH24

    I I - I I
    I = = I
    I I - I I
    I = = I
    I I - I I

    So should I be cutting I I, - (obviously not since this is the center knob), I, or = ?

    Thanks,
    Mike
    I cut off the inside l on mine like:

    I - I
    I = = I
    I - I
    I = = I
    I - I

    I still can't imagine them comparing to the DH32 on loose stuff though.

    Ak, sorry, text doesn't show the spaces...

  33. #33
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    another vote for the 2.5 32

    I ended up buying an intense 909 because I could get it in 2.5. Like Michelin rubber better but 2.8 was too much tire. If you build them, we will buy them.

  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by aenema
    I ended up buying an intense 909 because I could get it in 2.5. Like Michelin rubber better but 2.8 was too much tire. If you build them, we will buy them.
    What is the actual width of the 2.5 909?

  35. #35
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    just measured

    Quote Originally Posted by fsrxc
    What is the actual width of the 2.5 909?
    casing measures about a mm or two short of 2.5. You count side lugs and it is more like 2.7 so it looks healthy sized for sure when on the bike.
    Last edited by aenema; 04-17-2008 at 02:10 PM.

  36. #36
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    Check this out on Michelin's site

    http://two-wheels.michelin.com/2w/fr...113300&lang=EN


  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by davep
    This not true!! They have not changed any of the tires at all.


    You can however stretch most tires (mich certaily do this). A new 2.8 will be noticably smaller than one that has been ridden for a while. Since this tire never wears out, some get quite stretched over thier usefull lifetime.
    actually it was more like 4 or 5 years ago...they are definatly are smaller
    Last edited by SHIVER ME TIMBERS; 04-17-2008 at 08:58 PM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by SHIVER ME TIMBERS
    actually it was more like 4 or 5 years ago...they are definatly are smaller
    You are flat out wrong. I have been running Mich DH tires for at least that long myself..they have changed nothing but the hot patch. You can contact Mich USA if you want to confirm....but this has been confirmed (on another MTB board) by several people connected to Mich (employees, sponsored riders). Nothing has changed in those tires.

  39. #39
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    Put me down for wanting the 32AT in a 2.5.
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  40. #40
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    I have a DH32 on order and have one on a current bike. This tire is great. I would love to see one in 2.5 or 2.6 range. Has anyone tried the Schwalbe Muddy Mary, it comes in a 2.5

  41. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by Michelin Man
    One of the purposes of me checking out forums is to get feedback such as this. Now that I have suggestions like that, it will be easier for me to show France that this is what the US market wants and would use.

    Thanks for the feedback and keep it coming for things like this...
    hi michelin man,
    i want to try some michelin tires i am ride 95% switzerland and 5% PDS most dry or wettish what tire and wich direction.. What they recommend?
    thanks.
    Last edited by 8664; 05-20-2008 at 11:06 AM.
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  42. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by 8664
    hi michelin man,
    i want to try some michelin tires i am ride 95% switzerland and 5% PDS most dry or wettish what tire and wich direction.. What they recommend?
    thanks.
    For something that is a bit more wetish, I would recommend the MICHELIN DH 16 as that tire works a little better in wet conditions and also when it is a bit loser. I would say the MICHELIN DH 24 would be used on dry and hard packed conditions. Either way, I would run them both opposite of the direction of what the arrow says, the the ramps will line up a bit better to give you better braking traction.

    Hopefully this helps. If not, let me know.

  43. #43
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    Michelin Man-

    When cutting DH24's what do you recommend to use? I tried using wire cutters and that didn't work that well.

  44. #44
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    We use a hot knife that we took from our auto division. That works the best and you can find them on the net for like $400. If you do not want to go that route, which most people don't, we use a pair of hand held fiskars. Make sure you get the ones with a spring in them as that will make it so your hand doesn't get as tired. Last case scenario would be a normal pair of wire cutters. They work, but it isn't a whole lot of fun.

    I attached some pictures of the fiskars that we use.


    IMG_0451.JPG

    IMG_0452.JPG

  45. #45
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    A plug for:

    Quote Originally Posted by Michelin Man
    one thing we have done is use a regular vulcanizing glue patch on the tire and run a tube or if the hole is small enough, just run a tube without the patch.


    Innovation tubeless plug kit

    Fixes most holes too big fur just sealant and can be easily done without breaking the bead right there on the trail. My experience is that the repair is durable.

  46. #46
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    One more vote for the 2.5 DH 32.

    The 2.8 is just a little bit too big to fit in the rear of my Intense Socom, but I would love to run DH 32's for general use downhilling.

    So the consensus on DH16's and DH24's is to run them opposite of the arrow for both front and rear?

    I have just about all of the Michelin DH tires except for the 2.2 DH24, so I would be interested to hear more about different cuts and tire combos that you use for different conditions and tracks.

  47. #47
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    I would also like to say that a comp32 in a smaller size would be awesome. Like some of the other guys above, I and others I know have bought Intense 909 in the 2.5 but would prefer if it was available from Michelin.
    Michelin Man - Please let us know which tires, in which conditions and which DH tracks the pros ride on the DH circuit.

  48. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by clovis46
    I would also like to say that a comp32 in a smaller size would be awesome. Like some of the other guys above, I and others I know have bought Intense 909 in the 2.5 but would prefer if it was available from Michelin.
    Michelin Man - Please let us know which tires, in which conditions and which DH tracks the pros ride on the DH circuit.
    For the DH 32 in a 2.5, that is something we have expressed interest to France with many times, but they have yet to make it. We will keep telling them and hopefully they will change their minds. With Nico pushing the pedals again, maybe he might be able to convince them, I don't know.

    For the pro's and what tire on what course, boy that is a real hard one to answer. I have seen pros change through just about every tire on a single course trying to figure out exactly which one works the best in that particular condition. Then, once they find out which one they like, it rains and the process starts completely over. Here is how we break down the tires for different conditions:

    DH 16 – For loose or rooty conditions. Also works well in wet conditions when dirt is just starting to get tacky.

    DH 24 – For hard pack and rocky conditions. 95% of the time this will always be the tire on the rear no matter what situation as it is the fastest rolling tire of the DHs.

    DH 32 – The big meat (only comes in a 2.8). To be used only on a fast trail. You do not want to have to pedal this tire because of its size. Really only used when gravity is a huge factor (Mt. Snow). The tread does work well in just about everything.

    DH Mud - I think you can figure out when to use this tire. We call them “spikes” on the race circuit because the tread works just like spikes, digging into the mud.

    Hopefully this helps. If not, let me know.

  49. #49
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    I'm running a tubless DH16/DH24 combo on my Socom, both opposite direction, and they are working out great.

    I'd also be up for a DH32 in a 2.5.

    Appreciate the advice Michelin Man... here and over on roadbike review. I run Michelin's on my trailbike (Mountain A.T), DH bike and roadbike (Pro 3 Race).

  50. #50
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    which one makes the best front tire between a DH16 and a DH24 both 2.5 and why? I'm using a DH32 as a front tire right on my Demo right now but man, it's a tank!!but I like it more than the Minion supertacky I'm running as a front tire in my Bottlerocket...

  51. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by ban
    which one makes the best front tire between a DH16 and a DH24 both 2.5 and why? I'm using a DH32 as a front tire right on my Demo right now but man, it's a tank!!but I like it more than the Minion supertacky I'm running as a front tire in my Bottlerocket...
    They both make great front tires. Which one all depends on what the trail conditions are. If things are a bit looser and slightly wet, I would go with the DH 16. If things are much more hard packed and rocky, I would go with the DH 24.

    The DH 24 is a faster rolling tire, which is why it works better on hard pack and such. The DH 16 has a bit different side knob pattern and that is what helps it bite in a bit better on the loose stuff.

    I guess if you were only going to go with one and never change it, I would recommend the DH 16. It will be a bit slower on the hard pack stuff, but will still work, and will work much better in the loose stuff.

  52. #52
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    Cheers for the info!!
    Quote Originally Posted by Michelin Man
    They both make great front tires. Which one all depends on what the trail conditions are. If things are a bit looser and slightly wet, I would go with the DH 16. If things are much more hard packed and rocky, I would go with the DH 24.

    The DH 24 is a faster rolling tire, which is why it works better on hard pack and such. The DH 16 has a bit different side knob pattern and that is what helps it bite in a bit better on the loose stuff.

    I guess if you were only going to go with one and never change it, I would recommend the DH 16. It will be a bit slower on the hard pack stuff, but will still work, and will work much better in the loose stuff.

  53. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by ban
    Cheers for the info!!
    No worries....that is why I am here..

  54. #54
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    I really like Michelin's rubber compound.. something about it seems to shed off mud and water, provide good traction, and yet somehow still last a long time. I'm considering running a DH24 on my AM/FR bike but wondering how it's going to pedal. Do they run pretty true to size? Maybe I should run a 2.2 rear and 2.5 front? Also I think I heard that they can be run UST, can this be confirmed?

  55. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim311
    Do they run pretty true to size? Maybe I should run a 2.2 rear and 2.5 front?
    They do run pretty true to size. If you are looking for something that is "pedally", I would think the 2.2 in the back and the 2.5 in the front would be good set up. It will help keep the pedal drag down while wheel speed up because of that smaller sized tire in the rear.

    Quote Originally Posted by Jim311
    Also I think I heard that they can be run UST, can this be confirmed?
    Our downhill casings can be run both with tubes and also tubeless with the UST systems.

  56. #56
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    Great, thanks. I'll throw them in the list of prospects along with the new 2.35 UST Nevegals.

  57. #57
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    I know this is an old tread, but I got a question. I started running 2.8 32 front and rear today. How should i mount them? Opposite the arrow or not?

  58. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1+1
    I know this is an old tread, but I got a question. I started running 2.8 32 front and rear today. How should i mount them? Opposite the arrow or not?
    Run both of them in the arrow direction, not backwards.
    You're not entitled to anything until you work hard and earn it. CMQ

  59. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scrub
    Run both of them in the arrow direction, not backwards.
    Good to know, I've been running them that way. Cheers.

  60. #60
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    Wow, impressive service! I'm glade I have your product
    There....Are... Four...Lights!

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