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Thread: loose frame

  1. #1
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    You can also do the lift with one hand while grabbing the links one at a time. You should be able to feel the movement and isolate it.
    Binary Transition Bikes Demon Dirt

  2. #2
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    loose frame

    When I lift my bike up from the seat or from the top part of the frame, it lags about a quarter-inch or so before the wheels actualy come off the ground. There is a clicking sound, like a metal "clank", when the lag ends and the wheels lift up. I don't know where the sound is coming from, but it sounds like its coming from a pivot point in the frame near the rear shock. I'm thinking maybe a bolt is loose in the frame where it pivots through its travel. Its an Airborne Taka, which is a single-pivot frame. The bike rides fine on small stuff, no noticable issues since the loosness is only when I'm lifting the bike up. But I'm not sure what would happen at Mt. Snow when I go as soon as it opens for downhilling.

  3. #3
    West Coast FTW!
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    you probably have a worn DU bushing in either end of the shock, this is real common and is easy fixed at your LBS....

  4. #4
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    Thanks bcbud. What does DU stand for? It wouldn't be an expensive fix at the lbs right?

  5. #5
    West Coast FTW!
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    bring it in to your LBS and see what they say after having a look at it, and it should be real cheap for the part plus labour to re install it, otherwise crank down all your bolts in the rear end since you only have 2 to work on, then do the lift test again, but do it real slow and look at both ends of the shock as you are doing the lift, you will be able to see movement of the shock where the DU enters the shaft, the DU is where the shock bolts go through, the bolts and the DU won't move but the shaft will, if its a worn bushing....

  6. #6
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    ok thanks. I just had my lbs build this bike last week as its brand new so I'd think they would do it for free. thanks for the info, i'll try to tighten the bolts and do the lift test myself.

  7. #7
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    I had the same problem with my new build. The shock bolt was too long so i had to throw an extra washer on the end before tightening down.

  8. #8
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    Sounds like you're reliable and durable, set and forget frame is proving otherwise.
    Anyways... Doesn't sound like a DU bushing to me, when a DU bushing goes it shouldn't cause more than a few mm of play. Sounds like loose shock bolts or linkage bolts or something. Grab some Allen keys, and a wrench and tighten all your bolts. But half an inch of play is quite a bit, even for some loose linkage... Maybe an undersized linkage bolt. Isolate the problem pivot and go from there.
    I'd rather have a bottle in front of me than a frontal lobotomy.

  9. #9
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    I may have over estimated the half-inch of play. After another feel, I think its more like a few mm's. Anyway I'm back at college right now and won't be home for a few weeks but when I'm back I'll get it all sorted out. This can probably be easily fixed by tightening some bolts or getting new ones If I need to. I wouldn't think it has anything to do with the frames durability. It all has to do with how it was assembled at my lbs.

  10. #10
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    First thing, check for any play in the pivot. Hold the top tube near the seat post, grab the top of the rear tire and try to forcefully move it back and forth. If there is any play, you will feel it here. Just tighten up the pivot bolts, and check to make sure they have used loc-tite on the threads. I had problems with mine coming loose until I used loc-tite on it. Second thing, have you replaced your shock spring with the correct weight one yet?? If not, check that your spring preload is not too loose. I'm also a lite-weight rider like yourself and even with a 300lb spring only use one turn of preload. Sometimes this doesnt put enough tension on the spring to hold the shock shaft out at full travel, and when I lift the bike by the seat, I also feel a ''clunk'' as the shock extends. Also running so little preload, the spring and collar tend to rotate and loosen as you ride. Give those things a check when you can. Let me know if there is anything else I can do for you. Rip it up bro!!!

  11. #11
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    Thanks for the info dhpeteinsc. I did turn the spring a few times, but I didn't really feel any difference in preload. The only thing that happened was the spring either became loose, or if I turned it the other way it became tighter. I didn't keep track of how far I was spinning it. Can I mess it up by spinning the spring too far in either direction? Also, since I am lighter, I would want less preload right? Also, how much would it cost to get a 300lbs spring? Where do I buy them? Its a marzocchi Roco R coil shock. Thanks.

  12. #12
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    Jesus... it's like spoon feeding you... you're on the WORLD WIDE WEB, use it. Google, go-ride.com, jensonusa.com, ebay.com, etc... will all lead you to your answers.
    And yes, you can mess your shock up by running too much or too little preload in your spring. Zero turns (Collar snug against spring) to 2 turns max is recommended.
    Regarding your specific preload setting, that depends on your spring weight. Preload is there to fine tune your sag settings, which is dependent on your spring weight.
    I'd rather have a bottle in front of me than a frontal lobotomy.

  13. #13
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    Thanks but you didn't have to reply if you didn't want to.

  14. #14
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    I don't mind helping someone out by taking a few seconds to type something up. But while I'm at it I might as well help push you in the right direction so maybe you don't have to ask us every little question that pops up.
    I'd rather have a bottle in front of me than a frontal lobotomy.

  15. #15
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    rswitz, I believe the Fox DHX springs will fit the Roco( I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong) so you should be able to get one from your LBS or online.

  16. #16
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    Fair enough. Though I do use the search function a lot and google etc.

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