how to do a Jr to Super T conversion w/ picks ummm...- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Cool-blue Rhythm how to do a Jr to Super T conversion w/ picks ummm...

    so I recently converted my Jr T to a Super T. I will say that I was kinda worried about taking apart my fork but can officially say it couldn’t be easier. I just basically worked from top to bottom,( you don’t need to remove the C clip on the preload to take the fork apart, but to put the HSCV in you will ) drained the oil into a disposable bottle and whala! The HSCV went in pretty straight forward, replace the center of the preload with the new top of the HSCV, put the stupid nut back on the bottom ( why is it not a full hex I will never finger out) get the "official Marzocchi graduated cylinder" it makes life easier and holds exactly one beer (or soda-pop) I put 150 ml of oil in each leg, it seems a bit much maybe for my 170 full gear no big drop-in self, but we will see. and how much do I take out? like a few ml s ? or not even that. the whole trial and error thing is a pain in the arse.



    I did do the SSV mod to the remaining cart posted by Mike a wile back, I ripped out the washer that giggles around inside the SSV cart's slider thing with a pair of vice grips, cuz I dont have my fancy tools at school, but seems to work nice just from the late night ride around campus I did. If you have any Qs just shout

    Brent

    go-ride hooked me up with the cart, so I didn’t have to deal with marz for this either!!
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  2. #2
    Just roll it......
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    Komodo,

    I'm about to do this on my gal's Jr. T. Two questions.

    What'd the Go-ride cartridge cost you?
    What was the mod to the SSV cartridge? Care to explain a bit?

    Cheers,
    EBX

  3. #3
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    also, is there nothig holding a jrt together except stiction/air pressure? Also, you said you just ripped the washer out on the ssv side rather than trying to do the whole drilling/ spacer thing? I take it you had to cut it off or something?

  4. #4
    Meh.
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    Quote Originally Posted by skatetokil
    also, is there nothig holding a jrt together except stiction/air pressure? Also, you said you just ripped the washer out on the ssv side rather than trying to do the whole drilling/ spacer thing? I take it you had to cut it off or something?
    I never heard about ripping it out, the way I've always done it is to drill and tap 3 holes and thread in 3 small grub screws in the washer. The grub screws prevent that washer from snapping shut against the orifice and cutting off fluid flow which is what causes spiking.

  5. #5
    kona-tize me captain
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    Quote Originally Posted by skatetokil
    also, is there nothig holding a jrt together except stiction/air pressure? Also, you said you just ripped the washer out on the ssv side rather than trying to do the whole drilling/ spacer thing? I take it you had to cut it off or something?

    what holds the jr-t together, well actaully most forks are those 2 silver cap/nuts down on the underside of the lowers. his are right at the bottom of the lowers. hard to see but those 2 small silver caps with the O-ring around them screw onto the cartridge. im pretty sure of it
    Looking for a 7.87 x 2.25mm shock, any brand any age that runs well!! cheap would be appreciated!

  6. #6
    Just roll it......
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    Quote Originally Posted by XSL_WiLL
    I never heard about ripping it out, the way I've always done it is to drill and tap 3 holes and thread in 3 small grub screws in the washer. The grub screws prevent that washer from snapping shut against the orifice and cutting off fluid flow which is what causes spiking.
    Will,

    Drill into what? Put grub screws where? I know typing is tough (jk), but throw a dog a bone and give up a bit more info. Why would I need to drill into the SSV cartridge? If the newer Super T's come with a SSV in one leg and an HSCV cartridge in the other, how is that any different than just putting a HSCV into one leg of my gal's Jr. T and calling it good. I need a bit more info. here.

    I searched the forums and heard lots of conflicting info. on this so I'm looking for a bit of solid advice. I've got one HSCV cartridge on it's way shortly, so I've got time, but I want to make sure I do it right when I pull it apart and don't have to go into it again.

    Many thanks,
    EBX

  7. #7
    Meh.
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    Quote Originally Posted by ebxtreme
    Will,

    Drill into what? Put grub screws where? I know typing is tough (jk), but throw a dog a bone and give up a bit more info. Why would I need to drill into the SSV cartridge? If the newer Super T's come with a SSV in one leg and an HSCV cartridge in the other, how is that any different than just putting a HSCV into one leg of my gal's Jr. T and calling it good. I need a bit more info. here.

    I searched the forums and heard lots of conflicting info. on this so I'm looking for a bit of solid advice. I've got one HSCV cartridge on it's way shortly, so I've got time, but I want to make sure I do it right when I pull it apart and don't have to go into it again.

    Many thanks,
    EBX
    There's a small silver washer in the middle of the dampener that you drill, tap, and thread the grub screws in. The grub screws prevent the washer from completely snapping shut against the orifice. Spiking is caused when the fluid is unable to pass through the orifice.



    The washer he ripped out should look something like that, it might be completely circular without the little tabs. That's what you want to do to the washer.

  8. #8
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    Drop Off triple

    I'm actually taking mine in at the end of the month, to the marzo service guys in North Vancouver to re and re my Drop Off triple.
    I would do it myself. but being the bike and fork are only 3 weeks old, I need waranty to be there if I need it.
    He will put a Super T cartridge, and heavier spring and heavier oil and labour will cost just over 300 bucks. But its cheaper then buying a new fork, or a SuperT
    The Cartridge is 150 bucks.

  9. #9
    Meh.
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    Quote Originally Posted by wickerman1
    I'm actually taking mine in at the end of the month, to the marzo service guys in North Vancouver to re and re my Drop Off triple.
    I would do it myself. but being the bike and fork are only 3 weeks old, I need waranty to be there if I need it.
    He will put a Super T cartridge, and heavier spring and heavier oil and labour will cost just over 300 bucks. But its cheaper then buying a new fork, or a SuperT
    The Cartridge is 150 bucks.
    150 bucks for labor, spring, and oil is a rip. The spring is what, like 30 or 40 bucks? You can get a huge container of fork oil for 20 bucks. All in all, it'll take like half an hour to do.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by XSL_WiLL
    There's a small silver washer in the middle of the dampener that you drill, tap, and thread the grub screws in. The grub screws prevent the washer from completely snapping shut against the orifice. Spiking is caused when the fluid is unable to pass through the orifice.



    The washer he ripped out should look something like that, it might be completely circular without the little tabs. That's what you want to do to the washer.

    yeah I ripped out the float washer under that part, its totaly round and had a raised inside edge. that way looks allot nicer than what I did, but the principle is the same eather way, I might do that when I get home to my drill press, but what ever, ill see what it feels like on the trail.

    and the there are two big C clips that held the SSVs to the sliders, but the HSCV doesnt use them b/c of it being full length.
    OMG GUISE IT HAZ A AIER SHOCK WTF OO DUZ THAT?!?!?

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by XSL_WiLL
    150 bucks for labor, spring, and oil is a rip. The spring is what, like 30 or 40 bucks? You can get a huge container of fork oil for 20 bucks. All in all, it'll take like half an hour to do.
    Nope, 150 for cartridge, 70 for the spring, 15 for oil, 60 for labour.
    I have to get them to do it to keep the fork waranty... otherwise I would do it... and remember Im talking CAD dollars not US.

  12. #12
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    Will,

    That's even more than I was looking for. Thanks for the reply.....very helpful! So, now that I know I need to modify the ssv side, that makes it much easier for me when it comes time to pull this sucker apart.

    I'll have the HSCV cartridge in a couple of weeks, so if there's anything else I need to consider, it's always appreciated. Does it matter how big the holes, grub screws are? I assume (based on the diagram), that the holes are just to put the grub screws into and those basically serve from keeping the valve to shut all the way, eh? Sounds straigh forward.....

    Cheers,
    EBX

  13. #13
    surf-ride-repeat
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    Quote Originally Posted by KomodoRider
    and the there are two big C clips that held the SSVs to the sliders, but the HSCV doesnt use them b/c of it being full length.

    uhhh.. no, I think that is wrong, and uhhhh could be dangerous...my03 Super has dual HSCV carts with C clips on both, this is what holds the lowers on, once I remove the c clips, the lowers will pull off.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by pdirt
    uhhh.. no, I think that is wrong, and uhhhh could be dangerous...my03 Super has dual HSCV carts with C clips on both, this is what holds the lowers on, once I remove the c clips, the lowers will pull off.

    sry Pdirt, yeah the HSCV has the C clip on top, up by the crown, the SSV has one (about 1+" in diamiter) inside connecting it to the stantion tube, its a totaly different setup then the HSCV, but you are right the top one is critical to holding the fork together

    edit: dont read the stuff in the pic, I have no idea what I was trying to say
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  15. #15
    surf-ride-repeat
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    Quote Originally Posted by KomodoRider
    sry Pdirt, yeah the HSCV has the C clip on top, up by the crown, the SSV has one (about 1+" in diamiter) inside connecting it to the stantion tube, its a totaly different setup then the HSCV, but you are right the top one is critical to holding the fork together

    edit: dont read the stuff in the pic, I have no idea what I was trying to say

    Ahhh all good.

  16. #16
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    just finished....not so happy

    So I just finished with the conversion, and it went ok. I have everything back in w/ fresh oil, but man, the rebound is like mud. If you push down on the fork it takes like 10-15 seconds to come back up to full travel. Obviously I've done something wrong. Any ideas? I'm thinking the oil level is way off.

  17. #17
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    start here...

    Quote Originally Posted by billystack
    So I just finished with the conversion, and it went ok. I have everything back in w/ fresh oil, but man, the rebound is like mud. If you push down on the fork it takes like 10-15 seconds to come back up to full travel. Obviously I've done something wrong. Any ideas? I'm thinking the oil level is way off.
    I know this sounds silly...but did you try adjusting the rebound knob?
    Stock Super T's have a small external slotted knob on the top HSCV side.
    Sounds like you have the knob turned to full damping. Back it off to see if it feels any better.

  18. #18
    Yay! Bikes !
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    Quote Originally Posted by ebxtreme
    Will,

    Drill into what? Put grub screws where? I know typing is tough (jk), but throw a dog a bone and give up a bit more info. Why would I need to drill into the SSV cartridge? If the newer Super T's come with a SSV in one leg and an HSCV cartridge in the other, how is that any different than just putting a HSCV into one leg of my gal's Jr. T and calling it good. I need a bit more info. here.

    I searched the forums and heard lots of conflicting info. on this so I'm looking for a bit of solid advice. I've got one HSCV cartridge on it's way shortly, so I've got time, but I want to make sure I do it right when I pull it apart and don't have to go into it again.

    Many thanks,
    EBX
    Not Will, but ....

    My friend and I did this mod a few years ago to both of our Jrs. We used bbs and JB Weld to basically accomplish the same thing. Pics of my mod can be found here:

    http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.ph...highlight=hscv

  19. #19
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    still shiatty

    I just spent 10 mins spinnng the adjustment, and if its any better, I can't tell. I'm still thinking there's not enough oil in it. I measured the amount that came out of the ssv side and when I filled it back up I didn't put as much in (I was following the directions that came with the new cart). I'm gonna do some mtbr searching as well on proper oil level proceedures and then call G0-ride when they open.

    thanks for the reply...

  20. #20
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    knob

    Quote Originally Posted by billystack
    I just spent 10 mins spinnng the adjustment, and if its any better, I can't tell. I'm still thinking there's not enough oil in it. I measured the amount that came out of the ssv side and when I filled it back up I didn't put as much in (I was following the directions that came with the new cart). I'm gonna do some mtbr searching as well on proper oil level proceedures and then call G0-ride when they open.

    thanks for the reply...
    make sure you are just spinning the slotted knob. If you turn the black knob with it, it will only change compression.

  21. #21
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    what rocks?

    so I checked the Zoke site and then added the amount of oil they recommend. All I can say is wow, what a difference! I took the bike for a ride this afternoon and am really happy with the way it performs. Best upgrade I've made to any bike.

  22. #22
    2 wheel drifter
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    I did the conversion a little while ago and agree that it makes a world of difference. My fork seems to blow through travel a bit and bottom out more, which it basically never did before. I'm figuring this has to be an oil height issue so what height did you guys fill it to?
    I followed the go-ride recomendation of 90mm from the top in the cartridge side with the rod and stanction compressed and the upper spring removed. Does this sound about right?

    also a note to do it your selfers: I have an 05 jr. T and it requires a really narrow guage socket to remove the bolt from the bottom of the lowers. I actually had to grind down a 12 mm socket but I imagine marzocchi makes a tool.

  23. #23
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    Used the Zoke amounts+

    hey man, I'm sure you saw my posts, but just to reiterate, I used 245 cc's + 2 caps for the Super T side and, 260cc's + 3 caps for the Jr T side. "Caps" being the cap off the oil bottle. I used the amounts based on the 2003 Super and 2004 Jr. CC's convert to milileters on you mom's measuring cup. good luck.


    here's a link to the Zoke site:
    http://www.marzocchi.com/spa/mtb/pro...ito=mtb&Y=2004

  24. #24
    No Fear!
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    Im very intrested in doing this to my JNR,but is it worth the money?If its

  25. #25
    2 wheel drifter
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    I appreciate the link and information, however volumetric measurement is easy when the fork is empty but given the go-ride instructions used during the rebuild were based on oil height and the fork currently has oil in it. The chart doesn't get me too far, particularly given that I'm far too lazy to properly drain and refill, except as a last resort.

    Has anyone with a super t measured oil height after a build and can say whether the Go-ride numbers of 90-100 mm from the top of the compressed stanchion with the upper spring removed sounds about right? Lastly, was the measurement made with the damper rod compressed or extended?

    Thanks to the knowledgeable riders in advance.

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