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  1. #1
    BOSS TYCOON
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    Did with ever have problems with...

    1 1/8" steerers? I have heard discussion before but i've never really gotten an answer. Were people crackin 1 1/8 steerers? I've never heard of it happening. Did we just go to 1.5 to strength (although it was not needed)? Thanks
    I searched but i couldn't find anything helpful

  2. #2
    Natl. Champ DH Poser/Hack
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    not sure how much help this is but no, i havent. i know of 1 major player in the frame biz who says he feels theres no clear advantage yet produced his last dh and fr frames in 1.5". my take: stonger? no doubt. but is it really needed? maybe for a small percentage of the ridin public who go mega huge on single crown, long travel forks and weigh 220 plus. how big do you go and what do ya weigh?
    No, I'm NOT back!

  3. #3
    Glad to Be Alive
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    Quote Originally Posted by cactuscorn
    not sure how much help this is but no, i havent. i know of 1 major player in the frame biz who says he feels theres no clear advantage yet produced his last dh and fr frames in 1.5". my take: stonger? no doubt. but is it really needed? maybe for a small percentage of the ridin public who go mega huge on single crown, long travel forks and weigh 220 plus. how big do you go and what do ya weigh?

    agree....guys are slaying it around here with no problems
    the trick is ENJOYING YOUR LIFE EACH DAY, don't waste them away wishing for better days

  4. #4
    BOSS TYCOON
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    Yea i'm like 180 and i never really hit anything over 10ft that isn't smooth. I'm guessing a 1 1/8 would be okay for me. The only thing that makes me want a 1.5 is the security. If your steerer snapped, you would be so screwed. I hate tradeoffs

  5. #5
    squish is good
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    Quote Originally Posted by cactuscorn
    not sure how much help this is but no, i havent. i know of 1 major player in the frame biz who says he feels theres no clear advantage yet produced his last dh and fr frames in 1.5". my take: stonger? no doubt. but is it really needed? maybe for a small percentage of the ridin public who go mega huge on single crown, long travel forks and weigh 220 plus. how big do you go and what do ya weigh?
    Agree as well, don't see much of a reason for the 1.5 standard for the general public. IMO 1 1/8th is fine for pretty much everyone.

    Assuming your referring to Dave Turner on the DHR. I was actually pretty stoked to see him pull that out.
    Bike good, work bad.

  6. #6
    Natl. Champ DH Poser/Hack
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    yep. rumor is it may go back to 1 1/8 or tapered but that is way up in the air right now. last we spoke anyway.

    big e-argument goin on about whether or not to use 1.5 on the new rfx. i lost the full length housing battle and i expect to loose this 1 too. guess well find out later this year. tapered might be ok once h/sets and forks are more available but it aint no highline and i say keep it much like it is and add the dwl. this bike is damn close to perfect anyway. i rode the proto dwl spot last fall and its ride qualities were sooooooo good! its addition to the rfx and dhr chassis should be amazin.
    No, I'm NOT back!

  7. #7
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    1.5 isn;t really for strength as much as stiffness to weight ratio. Its not like people were breaking 1.125 left and right, its just not as stiff. Also, you can get a much stronger HT with the added weld area with 1.5. Tapered is the way to go IMO

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by William42
    1.5 isn;t really for strength as much as stiffness to weight ratio. Its not like people were breaking 1.125 left and right, its just not as stiff. Also, you can get a much stronger HT with the added weld area with 1.5. Tapered is the way to go IMO
    pretty much. there's a lot of material required on 1.125 steer tubes to keep 'em rigid. you can compare the wall thicknesses, but it's basically the same reason that frames have oversized tubing, you gain rigidity and strength but can reduce material thickness.

  9. #9
    Urban Ninja
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    Quote Originally Posted by William42
    1.5 isn;t really for strength as much as stiffness to weight ratio. Its not like people were breaking 1.125 left and right, its just not as stiff. Also, you can get a much stronger HT with the added weld area with 1.5. Tapered is the way to go IMO
    +1. 1.125" is flexy.

  10. #10
    SamIAm
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    Quote Originally Posted by cactuscorn
    yep. rumor is it may go back to 1 1/8 or tapered but that is way up in the air right now. last we spoke anyway.

    big e-argument goin on about whether or not to use 1.5 on the new rfx. i lost the full length housing battle and i expect to loose this 1 too. guess well find out later this year. tapered might be ok once h/sets and forks are more available but it aint no highline and i say keep it much like it is and add the dwl. this bike is damn close to perfect anyway. i rode the proto dwl spot last fall and its ride qualities were sooooooo good! its addition to the rfx and dhr chassis should be amazin.
    so it WONT have full length housing?!?!?!
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  11. #11
    Living Ghetto Fabulous!
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    The 1.5 thing seems like a no brainer after seeing enough ovalized 1.125 headtubes. A reducer headset with a 1.125 steerer makes good sense. More room for bigger bearings and more metal to metal on a 1.5 headset/headtube interface. Sure it's heavier and I see the logic in having more area on the lower headtube area, but the tapered steer-tube thing seems like marketing. I would like to see the real differences in gram counts between a full 1.5 set-up vs. tapered.

    As far as steer tube strength goes; I know this guy who snapped his steerer clean off a 1.125 steerer 66. We all call him "Flatlander" though, as he's broken his frame a couple times as well. He was the local crash test dummy. I can't say I've heard of any 1.5 steerers snapping... Anyone?
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  12. #12
    Its got what plants crave
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    IMO every frame should come with a 1.5 head tube. That way if you don't like 1.5 forks, you can just run an adaptor headset and a 1.125 fork instead. OR if you do believe in simple physics and know that you get a stiffer fork with virtually no weight penalty, you can run a 1.5. I've never broken a 1 1/8 fork but would any of you complain about a little extra stiffness? If you'd like to complain about your bike being stiffer under virtually all conditions perhaps you should convert your 20mm fork back over to quick release.

  13. #13
    mtbr member
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    The biggest thing I like about 1.5 hts is the options you get from them. You can run a reducer headset with a 1.125 steerer, in either an internal or external design to mess with the front end height of your bike a bit. I don't have any particular interest in using a 1.5 steerer, but don't see any real downsides to having a 1.5 HT.

  14. #14
    BOSS TYCOON
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    Okay okay, i understand what you guys are saying about the greater stiffness in the steerer. However, i do not see what you guys are saying about ovalizing headtubes. Headtubes ovalize from havnig your headset a wee bit loose (which everyone does, its annoying).
    Bigger headtube? Ever heard of integrated? An integrated headset is super super easy to work on, not to mention it results in a bigger headtube. All the bmx guys are running integrated now and the only ovalized headtubes are from loose headsets.
    Tapered would be cool, but it would make forks more expensive, and forks are rediculous enough already.

  15. #15
    dirt rules
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    I like 1.5. I've loosened the steer tube from the crown of several 1.125 forks, and like the idea of a beefier connection there.
    1.125 is probably ok for dual crowns, but for single, give me 1.5.

  16. #16
    ..ouch
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    Ah... but look at some of the possibilities when combining 1.5 / 1.125 tech:
    http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=491565


  17. #17
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    gotta love the adj. head tube set ups now

  18. #18
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    bigger is better.. duh

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matt 891
    bigger is better.. duh
    yep. It just looks more hardcore.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtb4life45
    Okay okay, i understand what you guys are saying about the greater stiffness in the steerer. However, i do not see what you guys are saying about ovalizing headtubes. Headtubes ovalize from havnig your headset a wee bit loose (which everyone does, its annoying).
    Bigger headtube? Ever heard of integrated? An integrated headset is super super easy to work on, not to mention it results in a bigger headtube. All the bmx guys are running integrated now and the only ovalized headtubes are from loose headsets.
    Tapered would be cool, but it would make forks more expensive, and forks are rediculous enough already.

    also in the bmx world you have to factor that the ht angle is usually right around 75 degrees. the fork is not as long and the impact is more of a punch straight up where as a mtb has the leverage go forwards and backwards

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