Codes not powerfull enough. What else?- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Codes not powerfull enough. What else?

    I know Avid Codes are a powerful brake, but at nearly 300lb fully suited up (with armour) I'm still finding them lacking. I'm losing weight at the moment but in top notch condition I don't think I'll be much under 265lb (I'm tall).

    I'm running Codes with 8" rotors front and rear, but they still struggle to pull me up.

    What brakes are stronger? And by how much?
    Anything I can do to improve the Codes?

    Thanks

    J.

  2. #2
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    Go to either Magura GUSTAVs or Louise FRs...but I would suggest the GUSTAV for you. Should be cheap on ebay about this time of year!

  3. #3
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    Try using a more aggressive pad compound and maybe upgrading the brake lines before trying new brakes.

  4. #4
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    Brake lines will not make a difference in braking power.

  5. #5
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    assuming u have them set up correctly with a good bleed and broken in properly...u could try some metallic pads as the stock pads are organic....they may give u the bite u are looking for
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  7. #7
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    Hope Moto V2...
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  8. #8
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    saints, gustavs, and "the ones" are all more powerful. I've heard that the ones fade over long descents though, I'd look at the new saints (which are even more powerful) or gustavs. Try a different pad compound then what you're using now though

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    upgrade to stick in spokes method. You may need to upgrade the spokes consequently - and modulation is not the best, but similar to Hayes.
    Last edited by mobile chernobyl; 10-17-2008 at 08:12 AM.

  10. #10
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    Magura Gustav's may be your only logical upgrade. I've not seen anything on the market that is as powerful. I run the Louise's and while they have great power, they're very similar to the Codes.

    You might try sintered pads as a first step.

    Oh, one other reasonable option may be Formula The One's with 220 mm rotors. Very powerful brakes in ordinary form but if you step up to the 220 mm rotors, they should be more than enough.

    Beastly ->

  11. #11
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    rock the dual front rotors yo....
    ridin in bmore

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Err
    Magura Gustav's may be your only logical upgrade. I've not seen anything on the market that is as powerful.
    yup, modulation is really good too...

  13. #13
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    I'd go with Hope Motos. They're vented rotors, so they stay cool. They're pricey though. Retail on a set with 8" rotors is about $690. But if stopping is a life/death situation, it's worth it.

    My Codes stop me on a dime, but I'm 170 with gear, so I'll shut up now.
    Meh.

  14. #14
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    I agree with what most people have said. Not Lousie Fr or anything like that (which i have) but not for a 300lbs guy.
    Magura Gustav
    Hope Moto V2
    Shimano Saint
    Formula The one 220mm Rotor
    Your only realistic options i would say

  15. #15
    Rb
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    At 300 lbs., I'd definitely opt for Gustav's.

  16. #16
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    Formula makes 220 mm (~9") rotors. Not sure if Avid does. Try upgrading to these or another maker's set of 9" rotors before changing brakes.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paranoid_Android
    I know Avid Codes are a powerful brake, but at nearly 300lb fully suited up (with armour) I'm still finding them lacking. I'm losing weight at the moment but in top notch condition I don't think I'll be much under 265lb (I'm tall).

    I'm running Codes with 8" rotors front and rear, but they still struggle to pull me up.

    What brakes are stronger? And by how much?
    Anything I can do to improve the Codes?

    Thanks

    J.
    I think you have the best brakes. Re bleed them and get new pads and make sure your rotors arn't glazed!
    "life is a little slower when your over 100 MPH" JAD

  18. #18
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    Gustavs

    tHEY ARE MADE TO STOP YOU UNDER ANY CONDITION AND ARE TOUGH ASS HELL.I have had mine for 5 years and have not do much more then a few pad changes and one or two bleeds. They are amazingly strong and are what you are looking for.
    Last edited by daisycutter; 10-18-2008 at 03:34 AM.

  19. #19
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    how about Brembo brakes???
    I know Brembo makes bike brakes which are probably the most powerful bike brakes, but can you get them anywhere ???

  20. #20
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    Get them bled really really well with a high quality fluid and a more aggressive pad compound.

  21. #21
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    I don't think Brembo has made bicycle brakes since like... the late 90's?
    Meh.

  22. #22
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    Nowhere near your weight (210lbs b-day suit) but my Saints (8" f, 7r rotors) seem pretty powerful with my single finger braking technique. I have taken a liking to the shimano organic semi-metallic pads (M07S).

  23. #23
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    No one mentioned this, but maybe trying different braking techniques would be a solution?

    Sorry if I missed the mark here, but I'm guessing more than half the riders out there don't use the front brake to it's best advantage as well as "other" techniques to "scrub" speed on long downhill runs.

    I read something on www.leelikesbikes.com about thinking of your brakes like an "on" or "off" switch, never drag your brakes, but apply them as hard as needed to slow you down slower than needed, than don't touch the brakes again until you have gotten to just past your "comfortable" speed this gives your brakes time to cool down between applications and forces you to learn proper braking techniques.

    You may have already tried this and found it didn't work, but for me I found it difficult to learn this on/off technique, but once I began to apply this method I spent less time worrying about and overheating my brakes.

  24. #24
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    Hope moto v2s for the win
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  25. #25
    moaaar shimz
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    Gustavs all the way man

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paranoid_Android
    I know Avid Codes are a powerful brake, but at nearly 300lb fully suited up (with armour) I'm still finding them lacking. I'm losing weight at the moment but in top notch condition I don't think I'll be much under 265lb (I'm tall).

    I'm running Codes with 8" rotors front and rear, but they still struggle to pull me up.

    What brakes are stronger? And by how much?
    Anything I can do to improve the Codes?

    Thanks

    J.
    Totally do everything you can to get the Codes working top-notch.

    Pretty expensive to change brakes, esp if the current ones just need some tuning.


    Here's what you need to do:
    1. Give them a fresh bleed with DOT 5.1 fluid.
    2. Se how that feels.
    3. If more power is needed buy the Semi-Metalic pads. The Codes come stock with organic pads which don't have the same amount of bite.
    4. If still not enough power, buy a boat anchor you can throw with a rope attached. or just buy some stronger brakes.

  27. #27
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    Thanks heaps for all the replies! I'll bleed the Codes and make sure everything is working properly then maybe look at some Gustavs.

    I'm in Australia and they look pretty damn cheap here. http://www.torpedo7.com.au/products/MEBDDW7GU

    The rotor size isn't very big though. Is this the rotor size (front and rear) that people are thinking of when they recommend them?

  28. #28
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  29. #29
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    doesnt hope make a 6 piston brake?
    looking for someone fast to ride with in the yay

    RIDESFO

  30. #30
    Rb
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    More pistons does not [necessarily] equate to more power.

  31. #31
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    I'm rooting for the gustav as-well
    Jake
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    Didn't you read the sticker on that shock? It said not to do whatever you did.

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Prettym1k3
    I don't think Brembo has made bicycle brakes since like... the late 90's?
    Actually I saw a set in Whistler a few years back. (2004...) They were on a RMX at the Marzocchi trailer. One of the guys in Fanatyco I talked to said they were unbelievable...
    Quote Originally Posted by kidwoo
    The internet sounds like a tough place to ride.

  33. #33
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    I just did a test ride recently on a bike with the new style Saints. They are top notch and pretty powerful. Too much for my taste currently, but maybe I just need to get used to them. I weigh 200 lbs and they could've killed me if I had used 2 fingers...

    A set of those with some 220 rotors would be enough I bet!
    Quote Originally Posted by kidwoo
    The internet sounds like a tough place to ride.

  34. #34
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    Only thing I can suggest for you is to re-bleed the brakes. I bought some '08 Codes and I hated them until I bled them. Turned out my front brake had a HUGE air bubble in it (and I mean way big). After that, my problems literally disappeared entirely. They're unbelievably powerful and I barely even need to pull on them to get them to stop. The "spongy" feel of them went away, too. The only thing is that they rub, but that's only because 8" rotors are impossible to keep trued and when you have the pad contact all the way up it forces the pistons closer and thus they rub. I wouldn't go out and buy new brakes - Codes are expensive enough as they are. Just keep working out and losing weight and your Codes will magically get better over time

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paranoid_Android
    Thanks heaps for all the replies! I'll bleed the Codes and make sure everything is working properly then maybe look at some Gustavs.

    I'm in Australia and they look pretty damn cheap here. https://www.torpedo7.com.au/products/MEBDDW7GU

    The rotor size isn't very big though. Is this the rotor size (front and rear) that people are thinking of when they recommend them?
    They come (or used to) in 160mm rear, 190mm front, with a 190mm rear, 210mm front option.

    If you are going for the ultimate never fade insanely powerful brakage, get a 210/190mm set.
    This is what it looks like on a bike, big enough for you?
    https://farm2.static.flickr.com/1025...ad2a0859_b.jpg

    I run mine with 190/160 rotors and they are great, never any sign of fading no matter what I do to them. I'm only 165# so no surprise there, but the modulation is great, too.


    The gator 8 piston brake is only for the showroom, performancewise it is sh1t. Hope M6 also get mixed reviews, they definitely require more lever force than gustavs. More pistons is NOT equal to more power.
    wanted: Cannondale Lefty w/ V-brake studs

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zell
    Only thing I can suggest for you is to re-bleed the brakes. I bought some '08 Codes and I hated them until I bled them. Turned out my front brake had a HUGE air bubble in it (and I mean way big). After that, my problems literally disappeared entirely. They're unbelievably powerful and I barely even need to pull on them to get them to stop. The "spongy" feel of them went away, too. The only thing is that they rub, but that's only because 8" rotors are impossible to keep trued and when you have the pad contact all the way up it forces the pistons closer and thus they rub. I wouldn't go out and buy new brakes - Codes are expensive enough as they are. Just keep working out and losing weight and your Codes will magically get better over time
    the code caliper has a dead spot in it where air will sit...when bleeding it's beneficial to remove the caliper and rotate it around, taping it while drawing the air out....u may have been experiencing this phenomenon....also, it's not impossible to keep the caliper centered with an 8" rotor so it doesn't rub....u should center the caliper like u would any other avid caliper...using the business card trick helps as well...the pad contact knob does not move the pads in or out....so if u are getting rotor rub, push your pistons back and center the caliper...if this doesn't work u may have excess fluid in the system...simply remove some
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  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paranoid_Android
    I know Avid Codes are a powerful brake, but at nearly 300lb fully suited up (with armour) I'm still finding them lacking. I'm losing weight at the moment but in top notch condition I don't think I'll be much under 265lb (I'm tall).

    I'm running Codes with 8" rotors front and rear, but they still struggle to pull me up.

    What brakes are stronger? And by how much?
    Anything I can do to improve the Codes?

    Thanks

    J.
    first off make sure the codes are bleeded and in top condition (no contaminated pads or rotors)....if they are then you need to take some bike skills classes....not trying to be harsh, but you need to use the front brake more.... u should be able to ride your trails with front brake only...if you can't do that, then IT IS YOU THAT NEEDS TO LEARN MORE BIKE SKILLZ and your brakes are fine. I am 225 with gear...I ride Saints that are not as strong and have no problems stopping
    Last edited by SHIVER ME TIMBERS; 10-18-2008 at 04:37 PM.
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  38. #38
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    buy hope, v2's is what nearly every one i know is rocking going to get some my self, currently on the m4's but there anchent, but still made a mate whos 17 stone go over the handel bars sat down about jogging pase. and v2's are supose to be more powerful, enough power for you? (8" rotors ofcourse)
    Quote Originally Posted by [Orge
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    This problem could quite simply be solved if people would stop buying Konas.

  39. #39
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    Paranoid Android, aside from the gear let's talk technique for a minute. I'm (currently) 230# wearing gym shorts, so geared up with armor and 100 oz of water I'm getting up near 260+ for riding weight and I run Juicy 5s on my big bike (200mm rotors) and they stop me on a dime when I need them to. And in context, my riding on that bike is Whistler and Vancouver's shore trails and other long, steep runs in the local mountains around Washington and Oregon.

    Are you comfortable using your front and rear brakes together in proper modulation? I ask only because many people tend to have a fear of using the front brake on the trail, and this significantly impacts braking performance. The front brake provides well over 70% of the stopping power on any bike, and proper modulation and application of the front and rear brakes is achievable in any conditions and learning this skill will take your riding places where new gear never can.

    Also, are the Codes new? Avids have a funny break-in period, where for a couple of rides you wonder why you bothered buying them because they don't seem to work at all and then they work like a dream.

    Cheers, hope this helps!

  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by d_m_b


    rock the dual front rotors yo....

    HOLY CRRRAAAP!!!!
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  41. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by pipes10
    the pad contact knob does not move the pads in or out....so if u are getting rotor rub, push your pistons back and center the caliper...if this doesn't work u may have excess fluid in the system...simply remove some
    I'm definitely sure it moves the pads in ever-so-slightly when I change the reach. They will rub much more depending upon how much of the pad contact adjustment I have turned up. When I turn the reach down, they rub less.

  42. #42
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    Got a pair of Clark's clim8 brakes new on ebay for $150. They are the best brakes I have ever used. Don't let the price fool you they kick ass!
    Attached Images Attached Images

  43. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zell
    I'm definitely sure it moves the pads in ever-so-slightly when I change the reach. They will rub much more depending upon how much of the pad contact adjustment I have turned up. When I turn the reach down, they rub less.
    False. The pad contact adjustment only changes the position of the small allen reach adjustment screw. The pads to not move, only a barrell in the lever moves. You can watch the reach adjustment screw come outward as you turn the dial in the "in" direction.
    Last edited by Jake_HT; 10-18-2008 at 02:08 PM.
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  44. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zell
    I'm definitely sure it moves the pads in ever-so-slightly when I change the reach. They will rub much more depending upon how much of the pad contact adjustment I have turned up. When I turn the reach down, they rub less.
    Read the manual. The knob does not affect pad position. Basically all it does is affect the relative position of the timing port. It does not change the capacity of the system... and it's an open system, not closed. The only thing that might be causing this issue is that your system may be overfilled. Even if the pad did move... the movement would be so minuscule per amount of knob turned that I doubt it would be noticeable.

    The reach is different than the pad contact adjust.

  45. #45
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    you should realy re bleed your brakes and put some metallics pads before even thinking about changing your brakes.... Btw if your Codes are not strong enough do not buy the Saint brakes... AND IF ONLY the bleeding and the mettal pads doesnt do anything on your codes than u might wanna look into the Gustav brakes or HOPE M6 for a lot of power but i do doubt atm that the codes arent strong enough because its not just about how strong the piston are but the surface the brake use, a code with 8 inch rotors is very strong and use enough braking contact to stop an elephant, so i cant see why they are not working properly for you... a lot of big guys on the WC use them if i rmb Rennie does and he weight over the 200 pounds bar and im 100 % sure hes way faster than you ( not saying that you are bad) and i can tell you that he likes his brakes ...

    good luck !

  46. #46
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    No mention of Steel Braided hoses.... Some good ol Goodridge will liven up any pair of crappy brakes.
    Bikeless Rider

  47. #47
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    the fact is, codes are not suppose to be crappy brakes first off and it wont affect enough to change anything special at the moment, that would be defintly the wrong thing 2do ..

  48. #48
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    The only choice would be Gustavs

    I'm 240 and have run the Gustavs for the past 3-4 years with no problems and they are more than enough power. Just swapped them out for some 08 codes (got a good deal) and they aren't as powerful as the Gustavs but still plenty I'd say. Sell the codes and pick up a set of Gustavs and be done with it.

  49. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by wyrm
    No mention of Steel Braided hoses.... Some good ol Goodridge will liven up any pair of crappy brakes.
    But they did and "Jerk C" shot them down saying they don't help, LOL! Anyone who's used Goodridge brake lines KNOWS the improvement in braking efficiency is worth the cost. Having said that, a pair of EBC red pads cures 85% of all poor braking issues.

    Have FUN!

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    Last edited by Gman086; 10-20-2008 at 05:50 PM.
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  50. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kortface
    .

    Got a pair of Clark's clim8 brakes new on ebay for $150. They are the best brakes I have ever used. Don't let the price fool you they kick ass!
    I like how they only have 6 pistons, yet are called the "8".
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

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  51. #51
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    You could be 800 lbs. and any of these brakes will lock up the wheel. Work on your riding technique, and your brakes will be less of an issue.

  52. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by joelalamo45
    You could be 800 lbs. and any of these brakes will lock up the wheel. Work on your riding technique, and your brakes will be less of an issue.
    That's crap I think about 400 is the limit.

    I never apologize. I'm sorry, but that's just the way I am.

  53. #53
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    brembo`s are like a grand + for the pair...

  54. #54
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    If the knob does not affect the pad position, then why do they rub badly when I have it turned all the way in? I mean it's not like I'm lying here. I can make a video and show you My pistons are definitely moving in when I turn the the red pad contact knob counter-clockwise. I mean I can see it when I spin the wheel when I turn it both clockwise and counter-clockwise. I can even see it if I take them out and look at them. So what's wrong with my system? Unless the bike shop over-filled it or something like you said.

  55. #55
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    https://www.brembo.com/ENG/Racing-Br...ountain+Bikes/

    OMG I GOT TO HAVE IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    I thought you guys were kidding about brembo making bike brakes

    *EDIT*

    found these pics dont know if it them or not! but sure it would look similar

    Quote Originally Posted by cascaderider9
    I just dont get the fascination with sucking the money cock.

  56. #56
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    Vaporware. Those things don't exist, on top of that, the examples reviewed showed only that this company has no idea about what mountain bikers need.

    Also they did a bad job of hiding the Grimeca roots.

  57. #57
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    I wasnt kidding..

    I dont know if they're good or not, i just know brembo is a really really good company...

  58. #58
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    i'm really close to your weight 260 w/o gear so probably close to the 300 mark with gear. i have run codes all this year and i never had any problems with them power wise. pretty much no matter the speed i was going i felt like i could throw myself over the bars with them.

    btw i pretty much rode them at snowshoe this year which is a very brake heavy park that is known for killing brakes. i have smoked but my front and rear rotors and never even noticed a hint of fade.

    basically i have been very impressed by the codes and i'm not a big fan of other avid brakes.

  59. #59
    moaaar shimz
    Reputation: tacubaya's Avatar
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    Brembo brakeset.







  60. #60
    Disco-Superfly
    Reputation: Jake_HT's Avatar
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    I like the rotors. Floaty... yay
    Jake
    Yeti 303 WC 25th

    Quote Originally Posted by Dwight Moody
    Didn't you read the sticker on that shock? It said not to do whatever you did.

  61. #61
    long standing member
    Reputation: PCinSC's Avatar
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    Joining the party a little late here, but I'll second (or fifth?) that Gustavs are the way to go. I'm ~300lbs all kitted up with a pack full of water and I'm running Gustavs with 190mm rotors front and rear (a 210 front is available) on my Big Hit. I never use more than one finger on the lever, and I never have to strain to brake. They don't fade, they have awesome modulation and power to spare when I need to haul it in. There's no better choice for a downhilling super-clyde.

  62. #62
    Elitest thrill junkie
    Reputation: Jayem's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tacubaya
    Brembo brakeset.
    Wow, a 2-piece 2-piston caliper with a hope-style rotor. That's really breathrough stuff there. Those guys should like make brakes for a living or something.
    Last edited by Jayem; 10-22-2008 at 10:45 PM.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

    You're turning black metallic.

  63. #63
    183 BRO's before hoes.
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    I would work on technique. Rode silverton no problem at 320# with one 4 year old hayes mag when one of my brake lines got yanked. Not gonna let something like that stop a fun day of riding, just gotta go fast and brake less.

  64. #64
    yaha ha
    Reputation: snowforner15's Avatar
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    At 185# plus... a helmet and clothes my gustavs stop on the dime and have not experience a single flaw anywhere.

  65. #65
    Gold it's the new Pink!
    Reputation: Crimson's Avatar
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    Change your pads and lightly sand your rotors with 400 or so grit sandpaper. You should not be having any problems.

    I have the new 09 Saints and absolutely love them.

    Crimson

  66. #66
    183 BRO's before hoes.
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    Quote Originally Posted by joelalamo45
    You could be 800 lbs. and any of these brakes will lock up the wheel. Work on your riding technique, and your brakes will be less of an issue.
    The whole point of good brakes is how much energy they can absorb without locking up.

  67. #67
    some know me as mongo
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    well i have also had brakes that i certainly could not lock up as well. i think his point is that if you are moving at speed and you can lock up your wheel at that speed then you have more than enough brake to stop you and how you are using that brake is more important than the total power.

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