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  1. #1
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    Carbon Dh Bar?

    Ok I just ordered a Easton Carbon DH bar and was wondering if I can use my lock on grips with it or should I use regular old style slide on grips. I don't really care to make face to ground contact and didn't know if they were made to work with lock ons.

  2. #2
    Ricky DH
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    I'm running them this year as well. I use the Lizard skin lock-ons and have had no problem. Just don't tighten them too much. I'd be more concerned about your brake, shifter and stem. I took my bike to the LBS and had them loosen and "re-torque" EVERYTHING that attached to my bars.

  3. #3
    mechmann_mtb
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    the DH bars are THICK. not likely to break them, unless you get run over by a train.

  4. #4
    Is flexy
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    This is where a torque wrench becomes very useful. I really hate the carbon bar debate but if you overtighten anything you should just throw the bars away because they become expensive dangerous junk.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by mechmann_mtb
    the DH bars are THICK. not likely to break them, unless you get run over by a train.
    Ditto - 230lbs ride hard, no sweat.

    I know a little 170lb guy who has been beating his at Diablo mostly for 2 years..

    These are Easton Monkeylite DH I refer to specifically.

    delishuss

    carbon doubters never rode carbon..... (Same guys gas up BCD while dissing other carbon... baaah)

  6. #6
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    carbon "set up" paste

    Quote Originally Posted by tbl325
    Ok I just ordered a Easton Carbon DH bar and was wondering if I can use my lock on grips with it or should I use regular old style slide on grips. I don't really care to make face to ground contact and didn't know if they were made to work with lock ons.
    I have been using the Gravity DH carbon bars with ODI Oury lock ons and I love them.
    I stumbled across some paste made by FSA (I think). You put it on the parts that will touch the carbon, and it allows you to use less torque when tightening.

    I bought some and put it on both my bikes (stem, grip locks, brake lever clamp)...
    I don't own a torque wrench so I can't really tell if it works...but it seemed to set up almost like a loc tite.

  7. #7
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    Running Easton carbons with no problems here.

  8. #8
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    the trick is ENJOYING YOUR LIFE EACH DAY, don't waste them away wishing for better days

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    Quote Originally Posted by SHIVER ME TIMBERS
    There you go! Couldnt find a better endorsement than that!

    So how many bars have you broken SMT?

  10. #10
    Ricky DH
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    Quote Originally Posted by SHIVER ME TIMBERS

    I'm not concerned at all.

  11. #11
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    I just got my bar in today and am wanting to put it on, but how much torque should I put on the bolts? I have a torque wrench of my own but the easton manual tells nothing about how much torque to apply.

  12. #12
    Ricky DH
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    I'm not sure. That's why I took mine to the bike shop and had them do it.

    This might get you some info.

    http://www.eastonbike.com/PRODUCTS/BARS/bar_rise_ml_dh_'07.html

  13. #13
    My arm hurts a little
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    Is this the bar you got
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Hardtail downhill
    https://youtu.be/sXhWDoz7_CM
    Quote Originally Posted by SHIVER ME TIMBERS
    tresspassing, thievery and poaching is all part of a DH'ers life

  14. #14
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    Yep thats the bar I have but what happened to that one? I am only like 160 lbs and riding an all mountain hardtail so not real worried about that happening anytime soon.

  15. #15
    My arm hurts a little
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    Quote Originally Posted by tbl325
    Yep thats the bar I have but what happened to that one? I am only like 160 lbs and riding an all mountain hardtail so not real worried about that happening anytime soon.
    Over tightened stem. I think

    Carbon is fine you just have to watch it ALOT more. It's not a set and forget bar. Watch your brakes, shifter & stem. If your getting a slit or anything trash it.
    Hardtail downhill
    https://youtu.be/sXhWDoz7_CM
    Quote Originally Posted by SHIVER ME TIMBERS
    tresspassing, thievery and poaching is all part of a DH'ers life

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    My FSA carbon bar is smooth like glass and had to really crank down on my ODI lock on grips to keep them from moving. The Easton carbon never had that problem. Has anyone had theirs break by the grip from over tightening? I have seen by the stem and brake levers break off. Does the kevlar reinforcing on some bars help keep it from breaking without notice?

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by #1ORBUST
    Is this the bar you got
    Bad mechnic does not equal bad parts.

    99 out of 100 broken things are due to moronic wrenching.

  18. #18
    N* Bomber Crew
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    Use a torque wrench and don't trip too much.

    I'm gonna guess that nearly half the Carbon Bar breakages are because people torque the living daylight out of everything on their bars: Stem, Brake Lever, Shifter Pod, Lock On Grips...all those added up can put a lot of tension on the bar.
    Northstar 2008 Riding Crew

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Huck Banzai
    There you go! Couldnt find a better endorsement than that!

    So how many bars have you broken SMT?
    none....I learned by watching 4 of them break on local riders......3 of them don't ride anymore because of it
    the trick is ENJOYING YOUR LIFE EACH DAY, don't waste them away wishing for better days

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by SHIVER ME TIMBERS
    none....I learned by watching 4 of them break on local riders......3 of them don't ride anymore because of it
    Huge pile o BS

    "I know a guy..."

  21. #21
    i like rocks
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    whats the point? plenty of alum. bars out there just as lite, if not lighter, cheaper, and no worries!

  22. #22
    bcd
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    Quote Originally Posted by tbl325
    Ok I just ordered a Easton Carbon DH bar and was wondering if I can use my lock on grips with it or should I use regular old style slide on grips. I don't really care to make face to ground contact and didn't know if they were made to work with lock ons.
    tighten the stem to where you can't roll the bars back. no more

    only tighten the brake levers and shifter where you can move them

    by hand, go to do anyway so you can fix them after a crash.

    lock ons same deal tighten till you have no throttle grip.

    great bars you will be fine.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Huck Banzai
    Huge pile o BS

    "I know a guy..."

    for some......mine our true words
    the trick is ENJOYING YOUR LIFE EACH DAY, don't waste them away wishing for better days

  24. #24
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    carbon bars should be replaced every year.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by bcd
    tighten the stem to where you can't roll the bars back. no more

    only tighten the brake levers and shifter where you can move them

    by hand, go to do anyway so you can fix them after a crash.

    lock ons same deal tighten till you have no throttle grip.

    great bars you will be fine.
    While Im still not convinced on the 29'er, I ain't gonna doubt the carbon knowledge. And since we're 'congruous' on this one... ...YAY!!

    lol

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by bcd
    tighten the stem to where you can't roll the bars back. no more

    only tighten the brake levers and shifter where you can move them

    by hand, go to do anyway so you can fix them after a crash.

    lock ons same deal tighten till you have no throttle grip.

    great bars you will be fine.
    use a torgue wrench and nothing else
    the trick is ENJOYING YOUR LIFE EACH DAY, don't waste them away wishing for better days

  27. #27
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    I decided to take my bike to the bike shop yesterday and have them put the bar on. Also, I know there are lighter bars out there that are aluminum. In fact the Easton bar is about the heaviest carbon bar I have seen but aluminum bars don't absorb shock like carbon. By the way why do you say that carbon bars need to be replaced yearly when according to Easton they are warranted for life. Carbon doesn't have the same fatigue life like aluminum. I would be more worried of riding an old aluminum bar.

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by SHIVER ME TIMBERS
    use a torgue wrench and nothing else
    Not necessary unless you question your judgement; and if you do, we have found the root of the issue!

    Boeing can make planes out of it, BCD makes downhill bikes out of it, SMT doesnt like em, SOLD!!

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2004haroX2
    carbon bars should be replaced every year.
    Bollocks. If you believe that I hope you are replacing your aluminium bars every month or two, my carbon DH bars are 4, my carbon XC bars are 5, I weigh over 200lbs no probs.

  30. #30
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    Guess I should get a torque wrench now so I can get carbon bars!
    Go BIG or Go HOME

  31. #31
    StraightOuttaCompton
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    SMT doesnt like em, SOLD!!
    why, not they are light as hell
    HARDTAIL PRIDE- 09 Kona Five-0

  32. #32
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    Anyone use the sunline carbon bars? I was thinking of getting these.
    Go BIG or Go HOME

  33. #33
    Is flexy
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    Quote Originally Posted by CountryBoy
    Anyone use the sunline carbon bars? I was thinking of getting these.
    I think they are more of an xc bar...
    Good People... www.efingersports.com

  34. #34
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    My buddys FSA Gravity Carbons have stress cracks in the clear coating.

    I broke my EC70s after less than a month.

    For 20gs less than EA70 bars or ProTapers I think Ill pass.

  35. #35
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    The Azonic ST-1 bars on my bike have an aluminum sleeve in the stem area so it's especially strong. They've been working perfectly.
    We can bomb the world to pieces, but we can't bomb it into peace -Michael Franti

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by CountryBoy
    Anyone use the sunline carbon bars? I was thinking of getting these.
    I'm running a set on my 6.6. Pretty darn light and no worries so far.



  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Djponee
    why, not they are light as hell
    Oh, I have a set - and at least regarding the DH/FR type - they're not significantly lighter.

    The Monkeylite DH @ 711mm are 5g lighter than EA70 @ 685mm. I could pick my nose for that kind of weight savings!

  38. #38
    gnar, brah
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    Don't all bars "work perfectly" until they break?

    Carbon should be fine for aggressive riding as long as they are installed properly. Aluminum bars will fatigue over a period of a few years, and should be replaced periodically. Carbon has an almost infinite fatigue life, so as long as the bar sustains no direct impacts, it should retain it's structural integrity. It is also interesting to note that the absolute sheer strength of a carbon bar is significantly more than aluminum...when properly installed. Judging by how many knucklehead wrenches there are out there, at the home garage and in the LBS, it is no surprise carbon has a bad rap...

    That said, I'll never buy a carbon mountain frame, and will opt for aluminum bars for downhill use. A lot harder to screw up, and cheaper to replace when they break.
    Trestle Bike Park

  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by SHIVER ME TIMBERS

    Thats pretty funny! Yeah. I agree. Unless you are religiously racing, I wouldn't use one.

    after you over-torch them, or after you crash, its pretty much a waist of time and constant fear of it failing.
    I'm always right. I thought I wasn't once, but I was wrong.

  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gravity Assist
    Thats pretty funny! Yeah. I agree. Unless you are religiously racing, I wouldn't use one.

    after you over-torch them, or after you crash, its pretty much a waist of time and constant fear of it failing.
    Check out carbon bar weights -- they are not used because they are ultra-light -- they are used because they are stronger!! (yes, barring idiot wrench work) and because they are vibration damping. In some applications they are made lighter as the superior strength of carbonb allows for a lighter implementation.

    EG Easton:

    --Mountain

    EA70 (XC) 145g
    EC70 125g
    While the ultralight EC90 goes down to 99g

    EA70 Monkeybar 250g
    Monkeylite DH (Carbon) 225g (oops I was wrong - it was 25g, not 5g -- wharz the cat-o-nine-tails)

    -- Road

    EC90 SLX -- 200g
    EA70 225g

    examples abound -- get it straight, yo shiz be crooked!

    Its unfortunate that clumsy mooks have ruined the reputation of this superior material so much so that people speak with 'authority' about how weak, fragile, or dangerous they are.

    So - us in the know shall reap the rewards while the detractors lose out. Not a problem!!

  41. #41
    Broken and dizzy
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    Mmmmm.....carbon! Yummy!




  42. #42
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    Been running my Monkeylite DH's for about 9 months now. They were first on my Nomad now on my Blindside. Have run a Thomson X4 stem, and nor running an Easton Havoc stem. I am 205 lb. Not a problem.

  43. #43
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    Use carbon prep (it's like a gritty grease, reduces pressure on the carbon.) Lock on's shouldnt' be a problem. I use lock ons on a carbon bar, but i use the specialized end plugs that wont' let the carbon compress in on itself. they are kinda cool.

    even without those, so long as you don't torque em down, you'll be fine.
    Proud to represent Mojo Wheels.

  44. #44
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    I recently got some Easton Monkeylite DH bars. I went to two (very reputable) local bike shops that deal with FR/DH bikes in the Orange County area of So Cal. I asked the mechanics at the two shops how they installed carbon bars? They BOTH said the screwed till they felt bottom and then a 1/4 turn more. That's it. No torque wrench involved.

    I was going to have either of the shops do it because I don't own a torque wrench. After hearing their advice, I just did it myself. No problems so far whatsoever. Hey, if it's good enough for NASA, then it's good enough for my bike!

    Last edited by Bobby Peru; 10-30-2007 at 08:44 PM.

  45. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by SHIVER ME TIMBERS
    use a torgue wrench and nothing else
    I found educated judgment to be suitable.

    AKA common sense.

    Someone earlier said they had to crank down tight to get the lock-on grips to not rotate.......this is not common sense.
    Extracting stings from wasps in flight.

  46. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by kntr
    I broke my EC70s after less than a month.
    EC70's are a XC bar. What kind of riding were you doing?
    Extracting stings from wasps in flight.

  47. #47
    The plough
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    Assemble your own bike/parts. All bike shops I have been to and that my friends told me about over tighten the crap out of everything.

    Parts broken due to shop over tightening:

    1. 20mm through axle fork lowers - those little screws that tighten the axle mount at the bottom were overtightened resulting in cracks
    2. Pedals to cranks - required removal of cranks
    3. Cranks to BB, required cutting of cranks and the BB to remove

    I have not heard of carbon parts damage yet, but I wouldn't be surprised if most damage comes from the gorilla method of bike assembly in the typical LBS.

    To be safe - even if you do your own assembly, buy carbon parts with aluminium collars inside at the clamp points - eg. middle of the bar and bar ends - and on top of that, take it easy with the wrench.

    Regarding sturdiness of carbon, some materials science data showed that the 12k weave (the broad tape) produces a stronger composite, but is heavier than the 3k weave - the thinner tape as in the Sunline bar picture above. I cannot find the link to that statement, even though I read it just yesterday... here we go:

    http://www.compositesworld.com/hpc/issues/2005/July/897

    In the end, carbon parts form structural elements in airplanes, cars (drive shaft for example), boats. By inference using carbon fiber parts on a bike is child's play, however the design and assembly have to be correct. Unfortunately I doubt carbon fiber bicycle part manufacturers spend much time doing strength and durability analysis of their bicycle parts as they would for aircraft of automotive parts. Therefore buying a more solidly built example of whatever you are looking for may be a good idea.

    V.

  48. #48
    Im a Cowboy
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    No......................
    DON'T TELL ME I'M STILL ON THAT FECKIN' ISLAND! ....

  49. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by #1ORBUST
    Is this the bar you got
    Jesus! Look at the thickness of that thing. If anything that has given me more confidence.

    Made by Easton and overbuilt, many are just paranoid IMHO.

    A video stress test with comparable aluminum bars would be very nice.
    About buying a bike:
    Quote Originally Posted by No MSG
    It's like finding a wife. Personality is important, but you gotta look at that face every morning.

  50. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by sdtmtb
    EC70's are a XC bar. What kind of riding were you doing?

    opps I ment EC70 Monkeybar sorry. I dint think I had to say that. I thought since this was a DH/Freeride forum that was given.

  51. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by kntr
    opps I ment EC70 Monkeybar sorry. I dint think I had to say that. I thought since this was a DH/Freeride forum that was given.
    Well, what were you doing that/when you broke them?

    I can post alot more pictures of broken Alu than you can of Broken Carbon!

    Wanna battle?

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