Buying a Specialized Big Hit Help!!!!- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Buying a Specialized Big Hit Help!!!!

    I am talking to this guy on another forum selling his Specialized Big Hit.
    "it is a 2003, I bought it used, but in like new condition in 2005, I have not ridden it too hard"
    That is all the info I have gotten so far, I starting offered $500 because it is regardless a 5 year old bike. Tech in mountain biking has come very far, and the bike is also used. In anyones opinion, what would be a good price for this bike?

  2. #2
    Meh.
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    500 or less. Emphasis on less.

    Parts are probably worn out - consider drivetrain as a complete write-off, will probably need new pads, new cables and housing. Pivots may have developed slop and will need servicing. Aluminum fatigues. The 24" rear sucks for getting over stuff. The geometry is weird.

  3. #3
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    Dude! KURT! What up man? I totally skiied with you the other day. Haha.

    If it's on Pink Bike, beware. People like to stretch their word over there. I'd be careful seeing as you'd be the third owner. If the drivetrain hasn't been replaced in the last year or even a few months depending on how hard it's been ridden, you'll need to replace that. Find out what BigHit model it is and see if you can post up a pic. You'll get some more info on the bike itself that way. I'll tell you now though, from what you've posted it sounds like you could easily find a much nicer deal. Keep your eyes out for Kona Stinkys, ect. They'll be nice beginner bikes for what you told me you wanna get into. Look locally too. I got a buddy named Chris who lives in the city who might be sellin his Stinky. It's in real nice shape.
    Quote Originally Posted by Internal14
    Ever slip a pedal and slam into the seat? That little thing would disappear until I later got to the ER.

  4. #4
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    I hope this isn't considered spam but I've also got a 2003 Big Hit for sale that I will sell for less than 500. Send me a PM if you are interested.

  5. #5
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    I'm gonna offer up some spam as well.

    Take it how you want, but this bike never saw more then XC trail use because I never had the time to use it like it was intended.

    http://classifieds.mtbr.com/showprod...?product=17083

    PM me if interested.

    Oh and Mods, if it isn't cool to make posts like this, PM me and I won't do it anymore.
    Disclaimer: I fix bikes for a living.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by XSL_WiLL
    500 or less. Emphasis on less.

    The geometry is weird.
    I'd have to disagree i really like the geo on mine, i have and 04


    my bike is my everything bike, cant afford two, so i do it all on my BH DH/FR/Dj urban and i think its a nice balance

    im sure you can get better bikes but not for 500-600 bucks

    not saying your wrong XSL_will just figured he should get more opinions

  7. #7
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    DJ Urban... definitely not. Slack, long, heavy.

    DH... not really. 24" rear doesn't get over things well, gets hung up on everything.

    FR... acceptable.

    I had one briefly. Outfitted it with a Pike air and a Swinger air thinking it'd make an okay slopestyle machine... nope.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by XSL_WiLL
    Parts are probably worn out - consider drivetrain as a complete write-off, will probably need new pads, new cables and housing. Pivots may have developed slop and will need servicing. Aluminum fatigues..
    Lots of good points there. If you can't go see it and listen for creaks, loose bearings, etc I don't think I'd bother actually.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by XSL_WiLL
    DJ Urban... definitely not. Slack, long, heavy.

    DH... not really. 24" rear doesn't get over things well, gets hung up on everything.

    FR... acceptable.

    I had one briefly. Outfitted it with a Pike air and a Swinger air thinking it'd make an okay slopestyle machine... nope.

    i got pics of my dirt jumping yeah you cant do tails whips and stuff, urban i can do wall rides and bunny hop up picnic tables i guess some people are better with working with what they got and in my opinion your a better rider if you can do it all on one ride


    not saying you couldnt do it better with a bike designed for the specific disipline of riding but not many people can afford 2 or 3, quality, bikes

  10. #10
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    Dead sailoring over a gap carved out of a pile of dirt doesn't require any skill... if you want to call that dirt jumping. You aren't going to be able to pump a tight set of DJs with a slack, heavy, saggy frame. The suspension is going to suck up all the lips. Wall rides are easy. And wallowing in travel in the street does not help any either. Can you? Sure. But just because you can, doesn't mean you should. Besides... how WELL can it do it? Can a big fat domestic muscle it's way around the twisties? Sure. But a well-balanced high-revving import would do it better, faster, and with less effort.

    It's a mediocre bike at best. My Kona rode lots better... and it was still a pig in the street. Riding a dedicated street rig makes a big difference.

    If you can't tell the difference, then you aren't riding hard enough. People think the Hayes HFX-9 and Marzocchi Drop-Off are great products... perhaps from their perspective it is... they don't ride hard enough to utilize the product's full potential. Or they don't know any better. Skill can only compensate for so much... and equipment is useless without a good rider.

    Point - there are better bikes out there. It's not worth the money.
    Last edited by XSL_WiLL; 03-06-2008 at 12:27 PM.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by XSL_WiLL
    Dead sailoring over a gap carved out of a pile of dirt doesn't require any skill... if you want to call that dirt jumping. You aren't going to be able to pump a tight set of DJs with a slack, heavy, saggy frame. The suspension is going to suck up all the lips. Wall rides are easy. And wallowing in travel in the street does not help any either. Can you? Sure. But just because you can, doesn't mean you should. Besides... how WELL can it do it? Can a big fat domestic muscle it's way around the twisties? Sure. But a well-balanced high-revving import would do it better, faster, and with less effort.

    It's a mediocre bike at best. My Kona rode lots better... and it was still a pig in the street. Riding a dedicated street rig makes a big difference.

    If you can't tell the difference, then you aren't riding hard enough. People think the Hayes HFX-9 and Marzocchi Drop-Off are great products... perhaps from their perspective it is... they don't ride hard enough to utilize the product's full potential. Or they don't know any better. Skill can only compensate for so much... and equipment is useless without a good rider.

    Point - there are better bikes out there. It's not worth the money.

    i agree they're a better bikes out there but and i know there would be a big diff. with a dedicated bike for what ever you want to ride but as far as it not being worth the money i think its one of the best bikes you can pick up for 500 bucks

  12. #12
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    I'd rather have a Stinky... it has the right size wheels on both ends... and rides way better. If you want FSR, old Norcos are cheap too. You can probably get an old Gemini for around there. Diamondback XTS... Raleigh Ram XT. Ironhorse SGS. Maybe an older Bullit or Weyless or Haro X6/7. Rocky Mountain RM6/7. Lots of choices. Resale on bikes suck.

    Depending on what you plan to do... a hardtail might be a better choice. Cheaper with better parts.
    Last edited by XSL_WiLL; 03-06-2008 at 01:04 PM.

  13. #13
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    Yeah Kurt, Will's pretty much hit this one on the head.

    The option of gettin a beefier hardtail is a good one too. I started out riding a Hardrock around here just like you and now I've built up a really beefy and strong freeride hardtail with 6" of travel up front. You'll be saving ton's of money goin with a hardtail over a fully and they can be built up really nice. You'd be suprised of what can be done on a hardtail I think. I rip the ROC on one. Never found a hit around here that it couldn't take.
    Quote Originally Posted by Internal14
    Ever slip a pedal and slam into the seat? That little thing would disappear until I later got to the ER.

  14. #14
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    i see XSL_WILL's point. i bought a 2005 big hit spec. im still not sure if its going to be a big mistake.ive put in alot money in upgrades just because after hard landings and what not it just wasnt holding up. so far vive gotten a new kassette x-9 shifters and deraluir. e-thirteen bash. and i just bought a 07 ROCK SHOX BOXXER RIDE. and im going to be putting a fox VAN R on it soon to. as well as hayes 9 HFX brakes. and transition red rims. and red levers. black/red 50/50's. red seat clamp. hoping it works out. if not striping bike down and selling its parts. lemme know your opinions. im only 130 pounds so the boxxer works perfect for me.
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  15. #15
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    I'm in the minority around here because I like my 2004 Big Hit. Up until this year I used it for heavy trail riding, jumping, DH, and FR. Now it will be a pretty dedicated DH/FR rig since I've got a Reign X too.

    The 24" has advantages and disadvantages. I still think it rails turns and manuals better than any other big bike I've ridden and the 24" wheel is bomber without being as heavy. Pointed downhill I don't notice it being any slower than my 26" rear wheeled bikes. For extended flat sections with lots of square edge hits I do find it to be slower, but if you just time stuff I rarely feel like I get hung up. I actually out climb most of my other DH friends on it and its 41lbs. Mine is however not even close to stock (8" travel front & rear, Go-Ride 888RC, Roco, X9, etc.) The bike can serve quite a few purposes depending on setup(6" to 8"), but the frame is 11 lbs with shock so it's never going to be light. I'll also say carrying two tube sizes on trail rides is a bit annoying. I think it's a great bike to get someone into big bike riding all the way to the advanced intermediate level (which I'm honestly not far beyond after 3 seasons), but I can see other bikes that are better if you are racing or just can't deal with the 24" rear wheel. You adapt to what you ride and the geometry is pretty nice IMHO. If I get dropped on a downhill, it's not the bikes fault, it's mine. It's also nice to ride something a bit different.

    Oh, and build determines what it's worth, not just the frame. Which version? If it's the stock, low end comp, yeah $500-700 is all it will likely fetch. If not, it could easily be worth a bunch more, just not to some of the people on this thread. Mine would be best parted out cause the parts are worth a lot more than the frame.

  16. #16
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    save your money shop around you can get an 06 or newer used for not too much more and i love my 06 this was the year for the redesign with 26 rear and front. there are weaknesses with my bike but thats because i saved money bought a big hit2 not the 3 i recently got a totem for mine waiting for it to ship and going to get a chain guide the stock sucks. the drop off triple fork after riding several runs you realize isn't that good i wrecked and the fork needs servicing so i figured replace it don't wast my time and the vanilla rear could be better i am told if you get the rear pushed you can have a sweet shock and save some money. the wheels are good but i am considering replacing them because the rear is untrue maybe needing replaced.
    my opinion is just wait save your money shop around my 06 new in the shop i got it for 1200 people posting them used for around 800 average some going lower some higher i had mine posted at 700 till i decided not to sell

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