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Thread: Brake woes -

  1. #1
    mtbr member
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    Brake woes -

    Just put a new 8" Hayes rotor on and it's bent already , I've only rode
    it a couple of times "XC" and haven't hit anything with it. Is this the norm
    for 8" rotors Is there something I'm possibly doing wrong putting them
    on? Are there better rotor (less likely to warp) than Hayes out there?

    Thanks,
    TBob

  2. #2
    Jm.
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    bend it back
    I know in my heart that Ellsworth bikes are more durable by as much as double. AND they are all lighter...Tony Ellsworth

  3. #3
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    Great - what is the right way to do that?

  4. #4
    Fly Rider
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    Hey TBob, how "bent" is the rotor? I've seen several Hayes 8in rotors that come straight out of the box with a wobble in them. In fact my rear rotor is that way...

    If you can find them, the Hope Gothic rotors are awesome, they are thicker, stop better, shed mud better and just look a WHOLE lot cooler then the stock Hayes. And then after you do that, get the Goodridge brake line kit and some new Dangerboy levers and you have a killer brake system.

  5. #5
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    sounds good - and thanks, I've already got razor roc levers, do you have a link for the brake line? why is it better? do you know of a good deal on the rotors anywhere?

    Thanks again,
    TBob

  6. #6
    Fly Rider
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    go-ride.com has both the rotors and the brake lines. The lines are better because they expand less and give you more power and better feel at the lever.

  7. #7
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    lighter wobbles tend to 'iron' themselves out, especially on the front where the most power and heat is generated. If its really bent, as in you can barely spin the wheel, then you'll have to do the three point bending method, although it doesnt sound like this is the case.

  8. #8
    Cynical Bystander
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    Quote Originally Posted by zedro
    lighter wobbles tend to 'iron' themselves out, especially on the front where the most power and heat is generated. If its really bent, as in you can barely spin the wheel, then you'll have to do the three point bending method, although it doesnt sound like this is the case.
    Yeah, bending them back is a biotch to do. i had to do it a while back because the rotor was rubbing on my caliper and it took me a few hours to get it to the point where it was just barely touches the pads on a certain part of the rotation.
    Tony
    is making a comeback.

    Turns out that five years of not mountain biking, really makes one strive to get back to it.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by COmtbiker12
    Yeah, bending them back is a biotch to do. i had to do it a while back because the rotor was rubbing on my caliper and it took me a few hours to get it to the point where it was just barely touches the pads on a certain part of the rotation.
    yeah i dont even touch light wobbles if its not entirely necessary, you can do alot more dammage since really your not straightening, but making a series of tiny bends to counteract it. Lukily i've only had to do it once.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by zedro
    yeah i dont even touch light wobbles if its not entirely necessary, you can do alot more dammage since really your not straightening, but making a series of tiny bends to counteract it. Lukily i've only had to do it once.
    Yeah, I've only done it once too, and haven't had any problems since
    Tony
    is making a comeback.

    Turns out that five years of not mountain biking, really makes one strive to get back to it.

  11. #11
    One tubby tubby
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    Warpage

    I'm a shop wrench and we have to bend rotors back all the time. It seems as rotors break in the heat warps them a bit. Just take a small crescent wrench and bend it back. Just take it easy. side note: rotors bent due to smacking them on stuff don't bend back near as easy....Lata
    BONES HEAL...CHICKS DIG SCARS...GLORY LIVES FOREVER

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