Avid Code Bleed = soft lever- Mtbr.com
Results 1 to 14 of 14
  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation: freeriderB's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,631

    New question here. Avid Code Bleed = soft lever

    bled my rear brake 3x and the lever is still soft.
    I'm following the Code instructions + watched the helpful You Tube Vid.
    Any tricks that I should know about?

    I put the red pad spreader in...turned the knob on the lever all the way out (counter clockwise).

    Can I just bleed the lever?

    I did not have this problem with the front. It came out ok.

  2. #2
    Meh.
    Reputation: XSL_WiLL's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    17,508
    Turn the knob half a turn in. Make sure you rotate and tap the caliper and lines while bleeding. They have little nooks and crannies that trap air. Make sure you degas the fluid pretty thoroughly.

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    325
    and don't expect it to be as tight as the front, ever...

  4. #4
    mtbr member
    Reputation: freeriderB's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,631

    knob

    Quote Originally Posted by XSL_WiLL
    Turn the knob half a turn in. Make sure you rotate and tap the caliper and lines while bleeding. They have little nooks and crannies that trap air. Make sure you degas the fluid pretty thoroughly.
    when you say 1/2 a turn in...do you mean midway? or just like 3 clicks?

  5. #5
    Meh.
    Reputation: XSL_WiLL's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    17,508
    No. You want it close to full out, but don't turn it all the way to the extreme. So just a click or two is fine.

  6. #6
    mtbr member
    Reputation: freeriderB's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,631

    pistons

    Quote Originally Posted by XSL_WiLL
    No. You want it close to full out, but don't turn it all the way to the extreme. So just a click or two is fine.
    I bled it another 3x and I think the last time worked. I was like 3 click from full out.

    Check this out though...before I bled the rear, I noticed that the pistons were only moving on one side of the caliper. Is this normal?
    I thought both sides should work in unison.

    I have not not checked if this is still the case AFTER the bleed since I just threw the wheel on to see how the lever felt.

    Any thoughts?

    thanks for the help.

  7. #7
    Meh.
    Reputation: XSL_WiLL's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    17,508
    No. Both pistons should move. If it is sticky, hold the piston that is moving freely and squeeze the lever a little to pump out the piston. Clean around the piston and lube with silicone spray or DOT fluid. Cycle the piston in and out until it moves freely.

  8. #8
    troubled economist
    Reputation: toowacky's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    591
    Aren't there two bleed screws on the caliper, one on each side?

    On my CODE 5's, the rear was spongy until I bleed a couple times, making sure I went through the bleed procedure once for each bleed screw. I figured that even though I tapped the caliper, there was still some stubborn air trapped on one side that I didn't get the first time thru.

  9. #9
    mtbr member
    Reputation: freeriderB's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,631

    2 bleed

    Quote Originally Posted by toowacky
    Aren't there two bleed screws on the caliper, one on each side?

    On my CODE 5's, the rear was spongy until I bleed a couple times, making sure I went through the bleed procedure once for each bleed screw. I figured that even though I tapped the caliper, there was still some stubborn air trapped on one side that I didn't get the first time thru.
    yes, there are 2 bleed screws but the instructions state it's only necessary to bleed the left.

    I'm going to take a closer look to see if the left side pistons are the ones that are working properly.

  10. #10
    troubled economist
    Reputation: toowacky's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    591
    Quote Originally Posted by freeriderB
    yes, there are 2 bleed screws but the instructions state it's only necessary to bleed the left.
    I hear ya, just telling you what worked for me from experience.

    It took 3 bleeds for me w/ the Avid kit to get the rear brake totally feeling good, twice from the one bleed screw, and then I did a third w/ the other... There was air in there somewhere, not sure where, but it will eventually get out with enough work (and w/ the Avid kit it's really just a matter of a few more minutes and a bit more fluid spent).

  11. #11
    mtbr member
    Reputation: freeriderB's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,631

    bleeding

    Quote Originally Posted by toowacky
    I hear ya, just telling you what worked for me from experience.

    It took 3 bleeds for me w/ the Avid kit to get the rear brake totally feeling good, twice from the one bleed screw, and then I did a third w/ the other... There was air in there somewhere, not sure where, but it will eventually get out with enough work (and w/ the Avid kit it's really just a matter of a few more minutes and a bit more fluid spent).

    good to know that you had success using the 2nd bleed port.
    If my brakes feel like [email protected] on my first ride I'm going to try it.
    thanks for the feedback...

  12. #12
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    172
    For me, the trick with the Avids has been to really work the vacuum on the syringe. Draw the bubbles out by pulling back on the plunger, then replace with clean fluid by pushing back in. You might have to do this for a few minutes on both the caliper and lever to get the fluid bubble free. When you have a good bleed, the plunger will feel very firm when you push the fluid back in, similar to the firm feeling at the lever when a bleed is successful.

  13. #13
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Posts
    262
    Definitely bleed both screws. Always had air coming out of the second one. Take plenty of time degassing the fluid first. Then don't be afraid to really pull on the syringe to get a good amount of bubbles out of the caliper, the original ones from avid are very airtight once the rubber piston is wet with DOT.

    Almost same hardness for front and rear is possible, the brake hoses are very stiff against expansion. In fact codes were the first brakes I ran without immediately slapping goodridge hoses for same feeling front/rear on.

  14. #14
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    1
    You can bleed them like a car caliper. Squeeze and hold while using the syringe at the same time. Then crack the bleed screws one at a time.Make sure the o-ring on the bleed screw stays seated on the screw. Good luck this was the only thing that worked for me

Members who have read this thread: 0

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

THE SITE

ABOUT MTBR

VISIT US AT

© Copyright 2019 VerticalScope Inc. All rights reserved.