66 fork crown hits frame! need advice- Mtbr.com
Results 1 to 40 of 40
  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation: creyc's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    701

    66 fork crown hits frame! need advice

    I was under the impression that a single crown fork will always spin around completely. (without cables) Well the edge of the crown of my new 66 ATA hits the brake line tab right at about 90 degrees.




    It gets a little closer and would never clear. I'm wondering if i could either add a spacer somehow on the bottom of my fork. (i know bad for my geometry) It wouldn't need to be a lot to make it work.

    Or is there a way I can limit fork movement, to prevent this nasty metal-on-metal contact which would gouge up both fork and frame. Maybe some foam glued to the frame..a fall would still really screw it up though.

    Any other ideas?

  2. #2
    thats not to steep is it?
    Reputation: thatdownhillkid's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    469
    dont turn the bars that far...
    just zip tie a little bit of an old grip to that spot. or roadie grip tape. or a tire liner, or etc. the list goes on forever.
    07' fsr xc pro
    06' bighit2
    05 hardrock comp set up as a dj bike
    02 fat boy hemi

  3. #3
    Yay! Bikes !
    Reputation: Nick.'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    1,760
    I believe Ventana makes a lower bearing race for CK headsets that will add either 5mm or 7mm to your stack height. That should give you just enough to squeek by. (maybe?)

    IMO: that is poor cable routing by Foes on the new frames.

  4. #4
    Meh.
    Reputation: XSL_WiLL's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    17,508
    In order to make the A2C height lower, the shape of the crown is different, there is less drop from the steer tube. This means there is less down tube clearance. Since you have a CK headset, you can get a Ventana crown race to give you a couple mm of extra clearance at the bottom.

  5. #5
    Bike Ninja |||
    Reputation: chooofoojoo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    2,037
    Chris King +7 lower race.. it'll bump your lower race 7mm higher so you can clear all that stuff. i think they are like $15 bucks.
    Proud to represent Mojo Wheels.

  6. #6
    moaaar shimz
    Reputation: tacubaya's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Posts
    9,117
    Drill a small V in your downtube



    I'm serious.





    NOT.

  7. #7
    mtbr member
    Reputation: creyc's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    701
    yea I thought the cable routing was a bit crap, but the top tube is really no better. It's a tough frame design, but the placement of that brake cable is just the worst.

    I'll try a chunk of innertube/tire for the time being but I'm worried about a crash, forcing the fork into the frame. I have no question as to which would win, thin walled aluminum frame or massive 66 crown. I'll check the ventana

  8. #8
    Trying a little
    Reputation: dusthuffer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    1,781
    Quote Originally Posted by thatdownhillkid
    dont turn the bars that far...
    just zip tie a little bit of an old grip to that spot. or roadie grip tape. or a tire liner, or etc. the list goes on forever.
    that's a bad answer none of that will work if you crash and the bars hit that tab at force none of that will help it will break something

    I never apologize. I'm sorry, but that's just the way I am.

  9. #9
    mtbr member
    Reputation: creyc's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    701
    Quote Originally Posted by chooofoojoo
    Chris King +7 lower race.. it'll bump your lower race 7mm higher so you can clear all that stuff. i think they are like $15 bucks.
    Is that the stainless steel tall baseplate listed here on the Chris King site?

    And do you have a link to that Ventana part by any chance?

    Thanks for the help guys!

  10. #10
    Bike Ninja |||
    Reputation: chooofoojoo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    2,037
    Quote Originally Posted by creyc
    Is that the stainless steel tall baseplate listed here on the Chris King site?

    And do you have a link to that Ventana part by any chance?

    Thanks for the help guys!

    yea.. i must be thinking of the cane creek +7... the king is a +5. but that's the ticket man.
    Proud to represent Mojo Wheels.

  11. #11
    Meh.
    Reputation: XSL_WiLL's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    17,508
    Ventana also makes a plus 7 and plus 4 race.

    http://www.ventanausa.com/main_accessories.html

  12. #12
    mtbr member
    Reputation: creyc's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    701
    awesome, thanks a ton guys!

    back to riding

  13. #13
    Just roll it......
    Reputation: ebxtreme's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    7,618
    Quote Originally Posted by creyc
    awesome, thanks a ton guys!

    back to riding
    Yeah, definitely getting the Ventana crown race. Sure, it'll raise your front end (slightly), but would you rather f_ck your fork or frame up? Didn't think so. A small price to pay for the right fit.

    On another note, you should let Foes know about that. Definitely a bad placement for the cable guides/stops considering the amount of folks running single crowns these days.

    Cheers,
    EB

  14. #14
    mtbr member
    Reputation: wormvine's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    3,160
    Is that exposed shifter cable on the bottom of the downtube of a 8-9" travel freeride bike?
    Foes should be ashamed.
    Ask foes about how they feel about drilling out those cable guides to allow full length cable housings. I love the fly but come on.

  15. #15
    mtbr member
    Reputation: creyc's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    701
    yea man, that was the first thing I noticed when I got over the overall beauty of the frame at the shop. I guess thats the price to pay ordering a boutique frame from pictures only.

    Should I invest in some jagwire or high performance sealed cable housings?

  16. #16
    Say Car Ramrod!!
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,778
    grind the tab off and run full housing
    I wish my grass was emo so it would cut itself...

  17. #17
    FM
    FM is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation: FM's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Posts
    9,450
    Quote Originally Posted by The Dude
    grind the tab off and run full housing
    Thats what I was thinking as well. Even with a tall crown race to clear the frame, you still risk catching your hydro brake hose on the ATA adjuster in a crash. You could easily blow your brake line that way, which would suck right in the middle of a riding trip.

    I'd run full length cable housing and use zip-ties to get your cables away from the danger zone- maybe like this:
    Attached Images Attached Images

  18. #18
    Glad to Be Alive
    Reputation: SHIVER ME TIMBERS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    42,929
    Quote Originally Posted by ebxtreme
    Yeah, definitely getting the Ventana crown race. Sure, it'll raise your front end (slightly), but would you rather f_ck your fork or frame up? Didn't think so. A small price to pay for the right fit.

    On another note, you should let Foes know about that. Definitely a bad placement for the cable guides/stops considering the amount of folks running single crowns these days.

    Cheers,
    EB

    exactly.............
    the trick is ENJOYING YOUR LIFE EACH DAY, don't waste them away wishing for better days

  19. #19
    mtbr member
    Reputation: wormvine's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    3,160
    Quote Originally Posted by creyc
    yea man, that was the first thing I noticed when I got over the overall beauty of the frame at the shop. I guess thats the price to pay ordering a boutique frame from pictures only.

    Should I invest in some jagwire or high performance sealed cable housings?
    Check this thread out!
    http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.ph...guide+drilling

    I don't know if I would do it on the Foes though.
    My buddy has a Fly on order and it's due anyday now. He has a 607' 6RC2X for it. I am curious to see if there will be any clearance issues.

  20. #20
    banned
    Reputation: Jerk_Chicken's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    16,457
    I'd also ask Brent about what he thinks about removing the stop altogether on your frame.

    I have to make the call and say it was a pretty bad oversight for Brent to not only route the cables there, but put the stops in a place where many, if not all, SC crown forks for that kind of travel will hit.

    Love his bikes, but that is a huge blunder. Hope he gets wind of it and makes changes for future customers.

  21. #21
    mtbr member
    Reputation: creyc's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    701
    Should I try contacting Foes directly, or wait (a week) and try to get my dealer to call?

  22. #22
    moaaar shimz
    Reputation: tacubaya's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Posts
    9,117
    Contact Foes directly

  23. #23
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    232
    i ran sealed nokon housing (inner liner) and a dual crown on my 07 FLY and of course never noticed either of these issues. removing that ATA knob will give you an additional 3mm or so clearance but it looks like you are hitting the frame with the crown itself. since you have an ATA fork, i'd go for the steerer spacer - you can wind back that 5mm and then some for climbing and then run sealed nokon or full length cable housing. enjoy

  24. #24
    mtbr member
    Reputation: wormvine's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    3,160
    Quote Originally Posted by creyc
    I was under the impression that a single crown fork will always spin around completely. (without cables) Well the edge of the crown of my new 66 ATA hits the brake line tab right at about 90 degrees.




    It gets a little closer and would never clear. I'm wondering if i could either add a spacer somehow on the bottom of my fork. (i know bad for my geometry) It wouldn't need to be a lot to make it work.

    Or is there a way I can limit fork movement, to prevent this nasty metal-on-metal contact which would gouge up both fork and frame. Maybe some foam glued to the frame..a fall would still really screw it up though.

    Any other ideas?

    My buddy just got his brand new Fly and he put an 07' 66RC2X on it and the crown hit's the cable stop too so it is not a 08' 66 issue.

    CREYC, Did you ever call Foes about this issue?

  25. #25
    Phil from San Diego
    Reputation: Prexus2005's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    581
    I have the same issue with my Yeti AS-X and 07 66 Rc2 eta. The As-x have 1.5 headtubes..and i'm running cane creek double xc reducing headset..

    so now my mission is to find a 1.5 to 1 1/8 reducing headset with the largest lower cup stack height. or to add a custom machined spacer between the bearing cup and the headtube.

    I think the top candidate is a woodman saturn solution.. but can't find anyone who has it in stock. =/

    I wish I could use that Ventanna crown race.. looks like a easy enough fix for you guys but I don't like the look of a 1 1/8 headset pressed into a reducer cup..


    Phil.

  26. #26
    Elitest thrill junkie
    Reputation: Jayem's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    31,527
    Quote Originally Posted by creyc
    yea I thought the cable routing was a bit crap, but the top tube is really no better.
    I have a 66 and a frame with top mounted cables.

    No contact with my 66.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

    You're turning black metallic.

  27. #27
    mtbr member
    Reputation: creyc's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    701
    Quote Originally Posted by wormvine
    My buddy just got his brand new Fly and he put an 07' 66RC2X on it and the crown hit's the cable stop too so it is not a 08' 66 issue.

    CREYC, Did you ever call Foes about this issue?
    I did call Foes, talked to Brent about it actually. He was aware of this issue with the 66's, as apparently the crown is wider than most other SC forks. His suggestion was the Cane Creek spacers, 5mm or so should remedy this.

    He also offered to take a look and possibly modify my frame for me if it was still an issue or the spacer doesn't work. I measured my clearance by loosening the stem and dropping the fork till it cleared, and I measured 6.3mm on a caliper. So I ordered a ventana 7mm spacer, will post how it works.

  28. #28
    mtbr member
    Reputation: creyc's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    701
    Just an update, with the Ventana spacer in place I no longer have the interference problem.


    (the caps are off because I was adjusting it, but they clear the frame although they get turned slightly because they brush past the hoses/cables. Oh well)
    Attached Images Attached Images

  29. #29
    mtbr member
    Reputation: kntr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    3,837
    My Fly was the same and I always thought about getting the spacer. I just didnt like the idea. Let us know how it works.

  30. #30
    banned
    Reputation: Jerk_Chicken's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    16,457
    I just got the +7 adapter for my bike, but for the purpose of slackening out. Have you noticed any slackening?

  31. #31
    StraightOuttaCompton
    Reputation: Djponee's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    3,145
    that is dumb, tell foes to fix that or else!!!
    HARDTAIL PRIDE- 09 Kona Five-0

  32. #32
    Say Car Ramrod!!
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,778
    that looks pretty ugly with the spacer. not gonna lie
    I wish my grass was emo so it would cut itself...

  33. #33
    mtbr member
    Reputation: creyc's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    701
    Quote Originally Posted by The Dude
    that looks pretty ugly with the spacer. not gonna lie
    Yea I agree from that pic it looks a bit whack but actually when you step back you don't notice it. Plus a little silver ring looks better than a dented/scratched up fork and frame.

  34. #34
    Say Car Ramrod!!
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,778
    Quote Originally Posted by creyc
    Yea I agree from that pic it looks a bit whack but actually when you step back you don't notice it. Plus a little silver ring looks better than a dented/scratched up fork and frame.
    true, function over form. sweet ride!
    I wish my grass was emo so it would cut itself...

  35. #35
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    849
    Quote Originally Posted by Djponee
    that is dumb, tell foes to fix that or else!!!

    Yea it is sort of an industry change right now. that is why you see Specialized and Santa Cruz and others with their downtubes going straight out then down. Foes will probably do it on later frames too.

  36. #36
    moaaar shimz
    Reputation: tacubaya's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Posts
    9,117
    Ugh well, I don't know how this Lyrik will clear the downtube



    I know I know... its just the photo..

  37. #37
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    849
    Quote Originally Posted by tacubaya
    Ugh well, I don't know how this Lyrik will clear the downtube



    I know I know... its just the photo..
    well also the NOMAD isnt one of the newest designs

    look at the heckler/superlight/bullit Specialized FSR and you will see what I mean with the bent downtube.

  38. #38
    mtbr member
    Reputation: gremlyn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    150
    There is no need for bent downtubes, intelligently placed gussets will help too. I run 66RC2X '07 on my Marin Quake using Syncros FBI (reducer) headset which has extremly low stack height (only 4.5mm)... and I still have no problems. Here is one of the older pics with taller FSA Orbit headset...
    Attached Images Attached Images
    I'm not a complete idiot, some pieces are missing.

  39. #39
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Mikey_C's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    454
    im interested to see how that ventana thingy hold up. Downtube clearance is an issue and that not all frame makers have addressed. I appreciate ventana's effort develop a solution to this problem and Im surprised there are few others who have.
    My issue with ventana's with the race sitting higher on the steerer its more likely to come loose. The only races I have seem come loose are ones that are a bit thicker and extend past the slightly oversized base of the steerer. So unless the inside of this spacer is slightly tapered to ensure snug fit. And if the crown race has any movement at all..thats not a good thing.

    I see a better solutions as a downtube extender that can press in to the frame and press the headset into. IF the headset companies want to have a solution how bout oversized lower cup option that would increase the stack height and look much cleaner.

    Maybe im just over thinking it.

  40. #40
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mcrumble69's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    1,055
    Quote Originally Posted by Mikey_C
    IF the headset companies want to have a solution how bout oversized lower cup option that would increase the stack height and look much cleaner.

    Maybe im just over thinking it.
    Here you go
    http://www.canecreek.com/s-3-plus-5-headset.html

Members who have read this thread: 0

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

THE SITE

ABOUT MTBR

VISIT US AT

© Copyright 2019 VerticalScope Inc. All rights reserved.