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Thread: 20mm Thru Axel?

  1. #1
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    20mm Thru Axel?

    Just wondering, is it really a large improvement over the regular Qr? Anyhow Thanks

  2. #2
    Drugstore Trailrider
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    Quote Originally Posted by RuNDmC1087
    Just wondering, is it really a large improvement over the regular Qr? Anyhow Thanks
    Yes.

    John W.
    Body Armor--Don't Leave Home Without It!

  3. #3
    TNC
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    Two factors.

    Quote Originally Posted by papajohn
    Yes.

    John W.
    First, the 20mm interface is much beefier in several ways because of size, contact area, and bolts (usually). Secondly, most of the forks that come with 20mm axles are usually built stronger also. Some manufacturers do make almost identical forks with QR or 20mm, but most have some significant differences. There is definitely a more positive steering precision in rough terrain with 20mm front axles in just about all cases.

  4. #4
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    once you go 20 you won't feel "safe" with QR
    the trick is ENJOYING YOUR LIFE EACH DAY, don't waste them away wishing for better days

  5. #5
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    How about the new crop of forks? AM1, Shermans etc with QR and 150mm travel (and 32mm stanctions), do they compare for rigidity with prev gen ~130mm thru-axle forks?

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by fsrxc
    How about the new crop of forks? AM1, Shermans etc with QR and 150mm travel (and 32mm stanctions), do they compare for rigidity with prev gen ~130mm thru-axle forks?
    Yes, even the new generation forks benefit from having a 20mm axle. A mate had the QR Nixons and said they were awesome...didnt need a thru axle, then he tried the 20mm and said he was wrong. This guy works for a bike comp wholesaler and rides alot of new stuff.

    SMT hit it when he said, once you've tried it you wont go back. I have 20mm set up on my trail bike as well as my DH.

  7. #7
    VIA
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    Doble that....

    I'd love to have 20mm in the back too...like thos DH-9

  8. #8
    Soul Cycles
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    if i have QR and i buy a fork with 20 mm do i get a new wheel set or hub?

  9. #9
    VIA
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    Quote Originally Posted by sreiman
    if i have QR and i buy a fork with 20 mm do i get a new wheel set or hub?

    I think that you gonna be better off buying a new front wheel ...but if you like your rim you may get a 20mm hub for cheap and put it on that rim.. It may end up costing you more money...go for a new fron wheel.

  10. #10
    your mom
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    ever since i've gotten a 20mm front i always look at the rear skewer and wonder why i havnt bought a frame with a solid 12mm rear axle

  11. #11
    No longer riding a haro!
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    Does anybody know where I can buy a cheap front wheel (new) for around 100 bucks.
    It needs to fit a hexlock axle, because I want to get the stance flow!
    Thanks
    Craig

  12. #12
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    my mate says the stance flow is crap. he works for a shop and ride a lot of new stuff. Get a 2nd hand tcpplus sherman or a Z1 stance flows have crap damping
    www.hope.co.uk

  13. #13
    Jm.
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    it depends, when you move to a dual-crown fork...it doesn't make as much difference IMO, especially when you put a BMX-bolt-on axle in your hub (if it can accept it). 20mm is nice, and for all downhill oriented stuff it makes sense to just make it all 20mm so it's all "standard", but for some applications it's not critical, a good solid bolt-on axle can make a big difference too.
    I know in my heart that Ellsworth bikes are more durable by as much as double. AND they are all lighter...Tony Ellsworth

  14. #14
    COOL BUZZ & TASTY S-TRACK
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    Nutted axle hubs

    Quote Originally Posted by Jm.
    it depends, when you move to a dual-crown fork...it doesn't make as much difference IMO, especially when you put a BMX-bolt-on axle in your hub (if it can accept it). 20mm is nice, and for all downhill oriented stuff it makes sense to just make it all 20mm so it's all "standard", but for some applications it's not critical, a good solid bolt-on axle can make a big difference too.

    I have a P2 that came with both ends 10mm nutted axle (which I thought was good for jumping).

    I know the rear end has to be stronger, but I was wondering how the front was comparable to a 20mm thru axle in regards to flexing and steering inputs.

    I just upgraded the fork and stayed with a standard dropout.
    Hope it was a good choice.

    Can you buy cheap and or expensive front and rear aftermarket 10mm nutted axle hubs?
    I might want to have a lighter set of wheels built.

    Any info would be helpful.......thanks
    I can fix it............... my dad has an awesome set of tools

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