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  1. #1
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    1.5

    Yes im asking about 1.5 headset converters to normal size

    Can anybody help me with which is the chepest or strongest to get?Had a look on ebay but can only find some expensive XC ones.

  2. #2
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    Reputation: fred.r's Avatar
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    Check e13, I think they make a reducer.
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  3. #3
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    You've got a few options, although your best is the e13 route.

    Basically, the e13 reducer cups sit in your frame and allow you to drop a zero-stack HS into them. So, combined with an FSA zero-stack, you get a flush, low HS that's durable and clean looking.

    You can also go for cups that allow you to press a regular HS in but you also get a much higher stack height.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ojai Bicyclist
    You've got a few options, although your best is the e13 route.

    Basically, the e13 reducer cups sit in your frame and allow you to drop a zero-stack HS into them. So, combined with an FSA zero-stack, you get a flush, low HS that's durable and clean looking.

    You can also go for cups that allow you to press a regular HS in but you also get a much higher stack height.

    Yes i have a e13 one in there but dont know what headset is placed inside it and its making a rattling noise so it could just be the headset inside the zerostack that needs replacing?

  5. #5
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    Huh? There's no HS inside the zero stack. Your headset happens to be a zero-stack, that fits inside of your reducer cups.

    Your HS is probably loose. Do you know how to adjust it? It sounds like yours is out of adjustment. If it is in adjustment and your system is still rattling your bearings are probably no bueno but that generally creates more of a grind than a rattle.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ojai Bicyclist
    Huh? There's no HS inside the zero stack. Your headset happens to be a zero-stack, that fits inside of your reducer cups.

    Your HS is probably loose. Do you know how to adjust it? It sounds like yours is out of adjustment. If it is in adjustment and your system is still rattling your bearings are probably no bueno but that generally creates more of a grind than a rattle.

    Yhe i know how to adjust and ive took it apart and put it together servel times but its still rattling and the bearings are very smooth.

    Made a topic about this before,any help would be great its deffo the headset.

  7. #7
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    Weird. What kinda headset do you have? And you're SURE the HS is not under-preloaded?

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ojai Bicyclist
    Weird. What kinda headset do you have? And you're SURE the HS is not under-preloaded?

    What you mean under preloaded?Its a zerostack im sure it is.

  9. #9
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    Sorry. Basically, I mean are you SURE you're headset isn't mis-adjusted? You do know to snug up the top bolt until the play goes away, then tighten your stem, correct?

  10. #10
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    Yup done that fine and theree is no play at all its well smooth its the rattling thats doing my head in,i dont understand.

  11. #11
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    OK, what kinda HS? Sounds like you need a new one or it's an improper fit. FSA has always treated me well.

  12. #12
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    Yeh it says e13 so it must be teh e13 zerostack,Reccomend me some headsets

  13. #13
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    No, it can't be an e13 headset. e13 makes ONLY the reducer cups, a headset is then pressed into those cups.

    Look at this pic. The Cane Creek part fits into the e13 part. You need (it sounds to me) a new headset, which in the pic is a Cane Creek. I would recomend, though, an FSA HS.


  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ojai Bicyclist
    No, it can't be an e13 headset. e13 makes ONLY the reducer cups, a headset is then pressed into those cups.

    Look at this pic. The Cane Creek part fits into the e13 part. You need (it sounds to me) a new headset, which in the pic is a Cane Creek. I would recomend, though, an FSA HS.


    Would any FSA fir in there?

  15. #15
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    I use the E-13 cups the FSA orbit ZR

    http://www.fullspeedahead.com/fly.as...xid=65&pid=190

    Been using it for a couple of years with no problems on my V-tach.

  16. #16
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    You must use a zero-stack HS. It's a different OD than a normal headset.

    If you want to get rid of the cups and have an all-in-one system look here:

    http://www.fullspeedahead.com/fly.as...xid=65&pid=246

  17. #17
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    Better option: Use a reducing headset. I'm runnin' a 'zoke double-crown, held in by an FSA reducing-headset: Simple, no problems, low, . . .money!

  18. #18
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    will a FSA Orbit fit? i have one laying around somewhere.

  19. #19
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    So this would be fine http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Cane-Creek-ZS-...QQcmdZViewItem?

    Or is there a cheaper option? or would a Cane Creek IS2 do the job the>?
    Last edited by Imperial; 09-05-2006 at 11:24 PM.

  20. #20
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    if it's tight and the bearing's are smooth, it's not your headset. check fork/hub/etc, because otherwise you might be spending $$$$ and not actually fix anything...

  21. #21
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    You may need headset "microspacers". I just had the exact problem with a FSA headset and the e.13 reducers. Try as I might, the headset would not preload properly, and the headset rattled or else was so overtightened that I couldn't turn my bars..
    Basically, the centering sleeve was falling out of the top bearing, so my fork steerer was rattling. I thought for sure I had blown bearings and possibly some ovalization somewhere. Nope. Installed a few of these spacers and the problem appears to be gone.

    The microspacers, which fit between the top headset bearing center sleeve and the dust cap, help ensure proper preload from the inside of the headset.

    pic from Park: https://parktool.com/images_inc/repa...headtype17.jpg

    Check the FSA site or a QBP catalog for them.

    -r
    Last edited by rpet; 09-06-2006 at 08:35 AM.
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  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by rpet
    You may need headset "microspacers". I just had the exact problem with a FSA headset and the e.13 reducers. Try as I might, the headset would not preload properly, and the headset rattled or else was so overtightened that I couldn't turn my bars..
    Basically, the centering sleeve was falling out of the top bearing, so my fork steerer was rattling. I thought for sure I had blown bearings and possibly some ovalization somewhere. Nope. Installed a few of these spacers and the problem appears to be gone.

    The microspacers, which fit between the top headset bearing center sleeve and the dust cap, help ensure proper preload from the inside of the headset.

    pic from Park: https://parktool.com/images_inc/repa...headtype17.jpg

    Check the FSA site or a QBP catalog for them.

    -r

    Yup sounds just like my problem with the steerer rattling but the bearings are smooth,Will get some of them "microspacers"and hopefully it should fix the problem like it did with you.Save me some $$$ So on the link is it just the spacers i need?

  23. #23
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    Here are the actual spacers I bought. I used 3 or 4 I think, but you can order a bag of 10.
    FSA sells them on their site also.

    Your LBS may have some lying around.

    http://aebike.com/page.cfm?PageID=30...ils&sku=HD4683

    Quote Originally Posted by Imperial
    Yup sounds just like my problem with the steerer rattling but the bearings are smooth,Will get some of them "microspacers"and hopefully it should fix the problem like it did with you.Save me some $$$ So on the link is it just the spacers i need?
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