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  1. #1801
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    It usually is cheaper to just replace the BB. It depends on what type of cranks you are using. For example sram cranks use GXP. Iíd take the cranks off and feel the bearings by hand first before buying a new BB. You could just be feeling some grim that could be cleaned off. As far as the creaking sound Iíd suspect the pivots before the BB. Threaded BB shells usually donít creak.

  2. #1802
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    Quote Originally Posted by srsiri23w View Post
    It usually is cheaper to just replace the BB. It depends on what type of cranks you are using. For example sram cranks use GXP. Iíd take the cranks off and feel the bearings by hand first before buying a new BB. You could just be feeling some grim that could be cleaned off. As far as the creaking sound Iíd suspect the pivots before the BB. Threaded BB shells usually donít creak.
    Itís the stock raceface bottom bracket and cranks that came on the bike.

  3. #1803
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    Curious about ya'lls opinion on frame change. I came across a 2019 Stumpjumper frame. Doing some maths and comparisons of geometry I gather that everything on my release is transferable to the stumpy minus the crankset which I gather is too long. Spesh uses a 170 length for their large, I'm guessing due to BB height.

    Now, I started with a Release two but put changed out the level brakes for guide rsc, put on Roval take off wheels from an enduro when my blanchard wheels ate up the freehub, pnw bars and stem because. I re-purposed the diamondback ones for a hardtail build. I also just did a debonair fork spring upgrade on the pike. So a lot of that stuff is what I want to keep. But, will the added 20mm in the rear and .5 degree head angle and carbon be worth the 2k price tag on the stumpy frame.

    Thanks

  4. #1804
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    Quote Originally Posted by smithers166 View Post
    Curious about ya'lls opinion on frame change. I came across a 2019 Stumpjumper frame. Doing some maths and comparisons of geometry I gather that everything on my release is transferable to the stumpy minus the crankset which I gather is too long. Spesh uses a 170 length for their large, I'm guessing due to BB height.

    Now, I started with a Release two but put changed out the level brakes for guide rsc, put on Roval take off wheels from an enduro when my blanchard wheels ate up the freehub, pnw bars and stem because. I re-purposed the diamondback ones for a hardtail build. I also just did a debonair fork spring upgrade on the pike. So a lot of that stuff is what I want to keep. But, will the added 20mm in the rear and .5 degree head angle and carbon be worth the 2k price tag on the stumpy frame.

    Thanks
    I keep an eye out for carbon frames with similar overall geo/specs all the time. Currently looking at SC 5010 frames- similar to you, Iím interested in moving everything over to a new frame (while keeping the longer fork).

    At $2k plus the cost of a new crankset, I wouldnít do it as a cost saving measure. Does the frame also include the shock? The Release shock wonít fit a Stumpy frame.If youíve got the spare $ and want a project, go for it! But if you ultimately just want a different bike, I think that selling the release and putting that $ toward a new bike is a better route financially. Otherwise youíll be left with just a frame thatís not worth much.

    Think about whether all of the money you have invested in the Release + the $2k stumpy frame + new cranks + random pieces youíll need to transfer/build, and whether that amount would be significantly more than just buying a complete bike.


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  5. #1805
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    Tarch... I'm going to be selling my like new Large Release 4C frame, if interested.

    I'll sell it either with no shock, or with a brand new, unused FOX DPX2 Performance Elite shock.

  6. #1806
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    Quote Originally Posted by srsiri23w View Post
    It usually is cheaper to just replace the BB. It depends on what type of cranks you are using. For example sram cranks use GXP. Iíd take the cranks off and feel the bearings by hand first before buying a new BB. You could just be feeling some grim that could be cleaned off. As far as the creaking sound Iíd suspect the pivots before the BB. Threaded BB shells usually donít creak.
    Thanks. Yeah I took it apart and did some research. I would just replace the BB with the same BB, a Raceface X-Type Team but I dont seem to see any of the same one for sale anywhere. Theres the DH version which is too long, and then the XC version which I can decide if I want to use. Not sure what the difference is between the XC and the normal Team but looks to be direct replacement.

    I was curious though if I could swap it with a similar Shimano one and have no issues. The cranks are Raceface Affect 24mm spline with the BB length needing to be 73mm outter bearing threaded. The BB is definitely a little grindie already so need replacing. Still might take one more ride on it before replacing though ha.

  7. #1807
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jerm2006 View Post
    Thanks. Yeah I took it apart and did some research. I would just replace the BB with the same BB, a Raceface X-Type Team but I dont seem to see any of the same one for sale anywhere. Theres the DH version which is too long, and then the XC version which I can decide if I want to use. Not sure what the difference is between the XC and the normal Team but looks to be direct replacement.

    I was curious though if I could swap it with a similar Shimano one and have no issues. The cranks are Raceface Affect 24mm spline with the BB length needing to be 73mm outter bearing threaded. The BB is definitely a little grindie already so need replacing. Still might take one more ride on it before replacing though ha.
    I wouldn't use a RF BB, but thats just me, I've never had good luck with them. That being said, again this is just me, if I were inclined to use a RF I wouldn't shy away from using the DH version and just tossing out the plastic center tube, I rarely use them and have had no issues.

    All that aside, as you have eluded too, since the spindle is 24mm same as Shimano you can use the Shimano BB and that would be my very first choice. Specifically I would go with the Saint, as I like the gold accents, but really it doesn't matter if it's that or XT, just be sure whatever you pick it's 24mm x 73/68.
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  8. #1808
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    Quote Originally Posted by Guy.Ford View Post
    I wouldn't use a RF BB, but thats just me, I've never had good luck with them. That being said, again this is just me, if I were inclined to use a RF I wouldn't shy away from using the DH version and just tossing out the plastic center tube, I rarely use them and have had no issues.

    All that aside, as you have eluded too, since the spindle is 24mm same as Shimano you can use the Shimano BB and that would be my very first choice. Specifically I would go with the Saint, as I like the gold accents, but really it doesn't matter if it's that or XT, just be sure whatever you pick it's 24mm x 73/68.
    The Saint BB is exactly what I was looking at. I like the gold too. There is one I noticed really expensive one that is red. The Hope BBs are crazy expensive. Wont be getting one of those but they do look cool.

    Thanks for the input and I will probably be picking up the Saint since my local BS has those in stock.

  9. #1809
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    What is the best order to service the pivots on the aluminum release? Any other advice?

  10. #1810
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    Quote Originally Posted by onesojourner View Post
    What is the best order to service the pivots on the aluminum release? Any other advice?
    Direct from DB this is the correct process and must be followed explicitly

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  11. #1811
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    Can some one tell me about the bearings in the pivot points? I have one in particular that feels extremely gritty/clicky. Can these be cleaned up or is better to replace them? Thanks in advance.

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    Quote Originally Posted by onesojourner View Post
    Can some one tell me about the bearings in the pivot points? I have one in particular that feels extremely gritty/clicky. Can these be cleaned up or is better to replace them? Thanks in advance.
    You can try cleaning and repacking the bearings. You can do this with the bearings still installed. This video should help.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0mQUOa6ksOE

    [b]PLEASE follow the instructions above for removing the pivot axles and re-installing this will help the process. Also when your putting the back in, be sure not to tighten the axles fully until they are all installed, then go back through and tighten then all up to torque. /b]

    One thing I would do that's not included in the video, after you spray out/clean the bearings. used some canned air to blow out as much of the cleaner as possible before re-packing the bearings. Be sure to use a good waterproof grease, you can use Marine Grease a lot of people do.

    If none of that works and it's still feeling like crap, then its probably time to have the bearings replaced. Mine are being replaced as we speak at the LBS. Even though I re-packed all my bearings when I got the bike, my lower pivots are feeling a bit notchy.

    this is the bearing kit I went with for now https://www.enduroforkseals.com/prod...ts/SBKDB5.html I'll see how they fair. I've heard some iffy reports about enduro bearings, but wanted to see for myself. If it doesn't work out, then I'll try some SKF bearings.
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  13. #1813
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    Quote Originally Posted by Guy.Ford View Post
    You can try cleaning and repacking the bearings. You can do this with the bearings still installed. This video should help.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0mQUOa6ksOE

    One thing I would do that's not included in the video, after you spray out/clean the bearings. used some canned air to blow out as much of the cleaner as possible before re-packing the bearings. Be sure to use a good waterproof grease, you can use Marine Grease a lot of people do.

    If none of that works and it's still feeling like crap, then its probably time to have the bearings replaced. Mine are being replaced as we speak at the LBS. Even though I re-packed all my bearings when I got the bike, my lower pivots are feeling a bit notchy.

    this is the bearing kit I went with for now https://www.enduroforkseals.com/prod...ts/SBKDB5.html I'll see how they fair. I've heard some iffy reports about enduro bearings, but wanted to see for myself. If it doesn't work out, then I'll try some SKF bearings.
    I just had the same kit put in my 5c a few weeks ago. Iíve got about 5 rides and itís still going strong, as apposed to when I first got the bike and the pivots were clicking right out of the box.


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  14. #1814
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    Quote Originally Posted by atkrocket View Post
    I just had the same kit put in my 5c a few weeks ago. Iíve got about 5 rides and itís still going strong, as apposed to when I first got the bike and the pivots were clicking right out of the box.


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    Sweet!!! Thanks for the feedback, that's reassuring. I figured it's a relatively cheap investment if it doesn't work out no great loss. I'm excited to get back on the bike, to see how the bearing go and testing out a new tire.
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  15. #1815
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    Quote Originally Posted by Guy.Ford View Post
    Sweet!!! Thanks for the feedback, that's reassuring. I figured it's a relatively cheap investment if it doesn't work out no great loss. I'm excited to get back on the bike, to see how the bearing go and testing out a new tire.
    Enjoy, braaaaappppp!!!


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  16. #1816
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    Thanks guys. Here is my full report.

    This bike has under 500 miles on it. I decided to inspect the pivot bearings and am pretty disappointed in the condition of them. This bike rarely saw any moisture other than for cleaning.

    2 of the bearings roll smoothly
    4 of the bearings roll but feel very gritty
    2 of the bearings cannot be rotated by hand


    Finally, pivot bolt 4 was difficult to remove and has noticeable wear on one side of it.

  17. #1817
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    Quote Originally Posted by Guy.Ford View Post
    You can try cleaning and repacking the bearings. You can do this with the bearings still installed. This video should help.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0mQUOa6ksOE

    [b]PLEASE follow the instructions above for removing the pivot axles and re-installing this will help the process. Also when your putting the back in, be sure not to tighten the axles fully until they are all installed, then go back through and tighten then all up to torque. /b]

    One thing I would do that's not included in the video, after you spray out/clean the bearings. used some canned air to blow out as much of the cleaner as possible before re-packing the bearings. Be sure to use a good waterproof grease, you can use Marine Grease a lot of people do.

    If none of that works and it's still feeling like crap, then its probably time to have the bearings replaced. Mine are being replaced as we speak at the LBS. Even though I re-packed all my bearings when I got the bike, my lower pivots are feeling a bit notchy.

    this is the bearing kit I went with for now https://www.enduroforkseals.com/prod...ts/SBKDB5.html I'll see how they fair. I've heard some iffy reports about enduro bearings, but wanted to see for myself. If it doesn't work out, then I'll try some SKF bearings.
    I am planning on trying to repack my BB once I get it swapped out. I figured I would replace it as normal but try to salvage the old BB by trying to clean and repack it. If it works I will have a back up to swap to next time I need one. If not then it was still fun to tear it down and back.

    I hope to have no issues with the pivot bearings as that look like a pain. Hope all goes well on the new kit.

  18. #1818
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jerm2006 View Post
    The Saint BB is exactly what I was looking at. I like the gold too. There is one I noticed really expensive one that is red. The Hope BBs are crazy expensive. Wont be getting one of those but they do look cool.

    Thanks for the input and I will probably be picking up the Saint since my local BS has those in stock.
    Thatís the one Iím getting too... can anyone tell me what tools I need to remove and reinstall the cranks and replace the BB??

  19. #1819
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    Quote Originally Posted by MOONER718 View Post
    Thatís the one Iím getting too... can anyone tell me what tools I need to remove and reinstall the cranks and replace the BB??
    Here you go, its in the instructions under "Tools Needed". FYI the BB tool listed Park Tool BBT-9 is same for Shimano and Race Face 24mm BB.

    https://drive.google.com/open?id=1zv...e0Mn6v_UlPRY8h
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  20. #1820
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    Quote Originally Posted by Guy.Ford View Post
    Here you go, its in the instructions under "Tools Needed". FYI the BB tool listed Park Tool BBT-9 is same for Shimano and Race Face 24mm BB.

    https://drive.google.com/open?id=1zv...e0Mn6v_UlPRY8h
    I just received all my tools about 2 weeks ago and finally my BB this week so I can make the swap. I was surprised 2 of my LBS didnt have a BB in stock so had to order online which shipping took FORRRREEVVVVEEEERR! This will be fun and even more fun pulling the old one apart to try and rebuild.

  21. #1821
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    Quote Originally Posted by onesojourner View Post
    2 of the bearings roll smoothly
    4 of the bearings roll but feel very gritty
    2 of the bearings cannot be rotated by hand


    Finally, pivot bolt 4 was difficult to remove and has noticeable wear on one side of it.
    It's been years now people have been complaining about the pivots on these bikes! Why hasn't DB figured this stuff out?

  22. #1822
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    Quote Originally Posted by Darth Lefty View Post
    It's been years now people have been complaining about the pivots on these bikes! Why hasn't DB figured this stuff out?
    Yep, all DB's fault.
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  23. #1823
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    I agree most companies could spend more money on bearings, however this is not an isolated issue with DB. FWIW most companies have shit bearings in their frames stock, searching most of the mfg forums and you'll see plenty of people complaining about bearings in their frames.

    Also lets keep in mind there are other factors that lead to bearings taking a crap. My bearings where packed with new grease when I got my frame and I still had to replace my lower linkage bearings. I contribute some of that to PNW being wet constantly, my weight (280lbs) and the fact that I'm hard on my bikes. Either way didn't bother me to replace them and I don't hold DB responsible, since bearing are a wear item and will need to be replaced, it's all part of riding a bike.
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  24. #1824
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    There is literally one feature on this bike Diamondback is responsible for and that makes it worth buying vs. other bikes. That's the linkage. And it's still out of alignment, even if it had good bearings. I really enjoyed mine while I had it but when it was brand new, based on this thread, I unhooked the shock and pushed the triangle through its motion and felt it bind. So I put it back together and willfully ignored it until I decided to sell it. (It was a size off and I wanted to get a hard tail for other reasons.) If I'd kept the bike I'd have really nursed a grudge about it. It seems like these bikes could be fantastic with just a few edits for the couple of most common qc problems (pivot, rear hub) but DB won't make the edits, or they send out hacky fixes like a bolt with a chamfer that makes it easier to force.

  25. #1825
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    Quote Originally Posted by Darth Lefty View Post
    There is literally one feature on this bike Diamondback is responsible for and that makes it worth buying vs. other bikes. That's the linkage. And it's still out of alignment, even if it had good bearings. I really enjoyed mine while I had it but when it was brand new, based on this thread, I unhooked the shock and pushed the triangle through its motion and felt it bind. So I put it back together and willfully ignored it until I decided to sell it. (It was a size off and I wanted to get a hard tail for other reasons.) If I'd kept the bike I'd have really nursed a grudge about it. It seems like these bikes could be fantastic with just a few edits for the couple of most common qc problems (pivot, rear hub) but DB won't make the edits, or they send out hacky fixes like a bolt with a chamfer that makes it easier to force.

    That's why I posted the info on pivot maintenance above, I assume more users aren't following those instructions and DB is adamant that they be followed for exactly the reasons you describe. I talked to them specifically about this issue, this was their resolution and I've had no such issues with either my carbon or aluminum swingarm when I followed these instructions.

    Question, how were the bearings in your frame? Any of them grindy or out of alignment? Did you check? Those issues could also lead to the issue you described.
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  26. #1826
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    I didn't look at the bearings. I'm pretty sure it was the alignment of the holes because that's how it acted. But it doesn't matter, both should be right.

  27. #1827
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    Quote Originally Posted by Darth Lefty View Post
    There is literally one feature on this bike Diamondback is responsible for and that makes it worth buying vs. other bikes. That's the linkage. And it's still out of alignment, even if it had good bearings. I really enjoyed mine while I had it but when it was brand new, based on this thread, I unhooked the shock and pushed the triangle through its motion and felt it bind. So I put it back together and willfully ignored it until I decided to sell it. (It was a size off and I wanted to get a hard tail for other reasons.) If I'd kept the bike I'd have really nursed a grudge about it. It seems like these bikes could be fantastic with just a few edits for the couple of most common qc problems (pivot, rear hub) but DB won't make the edits, or they send out hacky fixes like a bolt with a chamfer that makes it easier to force.
    Are you my doppelganger? Lol! I had the same experience and while it was a fun bike, it had just too many problems. I did check the bearings in the frame and they were rough as well. I made sure my new bike had better bearings and QC overall (Norco Sight). Good quality bearing make a big difference. My wife rides my old 2001 Specialized Enduro and all of its original bearings are still great and smooth after heavy use.

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    Just wanted to give an update on the bottom bracket ordeal. Huge thanks to Guy Ford for easing my mind that the BB I ordered would fit.

    With the right tools, removal on the cranks and the raceface POS was easy, and installation of the new Shimano Saint was a breeze. Happy to not have that gritty feel anymore.

    The gold is a nice touch too. Release: Any owners yet?-2a6b0939-43e0-492e-85e1-06f65a35b175.jpg

  29. #1829
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    Quote Originally Posted by MOONER718 View Post
    Just wanted to give an update on the bottom bracket ordeal. Huge thanks to Guy Ford for easing my mind that the BB I ordered would fit.

    With the right tools, removal on the cranks and the raceface POS was easy, and installation of the new Shimano Saint was a breeze. Happy to not have that gritty feel anymore.

    The gold is a nice touch too. Click image for larger version. 

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    Sweet Mooner718 looks awesome, stoked your happy thanks for the update. Definitely should be trouble free going forward.


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    I am looking at maybe replacing the wheels on my 2017 Release 3. Both my front and back rims have some damage from rocks and my poor riding (lol) that is preventing me from running tubless. Is it correct that the rear is 12x148 boost xd with 28mm width and the front is 15x110 boost with 28mm rim width? Any recommendations for a good set of 32 spoke rims that would work with this bike? Thanks!

  31. #1831
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ethang_1988 View Post
    Is it correct that the rear is 12x148 boost xd with 28mm width and the front is 15x110 boost with 28mm rim width? Any recommendations for a good set of 32 spoke rims that would work with this bike? Thanks!
    Those specs are correct. Pros Closet has a bunch of good deals on DT Swiss wheelsets right now:

    https://www.theproscloset.com/produc...-27-5-wheelset

    Iíve run 2 aftermarket wheelsets on my R3, Ibis 738 and i9 en305, and both have been worthwhile upgrades with improved performance and reliability vs. stock.



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    Quote Originally Posted by DETarch View Post
    Those specs are correct. Pros Closet has a bunch of good deals on DT Swiss wheelsets right now:

    https://www.theproscloset.com/produc...-27-5-wheelset

    Iíve run 2 aftermarket wheelsets on my R3, Ibis 738 and i9 en305, and both have been worthwhile upgrades with improved performance and reliability vs. stock.



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    Right on! Those wheels that you linked to are 30.5mm wide, and I know that is only a little wider than the blanchard 28r that come with the release 3, but will 30.5mm fit okay?

    Thanks!

  33. #1833
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ethang_1988 View Post
    Right on! Those wheels that you linked to are 30.5mm wide, and I know that is only a little wider than the blanchard 28r that come with the release 3, but will 30.5mm fit okay?

    Thanks!
    Yeah, that slight increase isnít an issue. My current i9 set is the same inner width.


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    Quote Originally Posted by DETarch View Post
    Yeah, that slight increase isnít an issue. My current i9 set is the same inner width.


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    Cool, Thanks!

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    Hey guys, anyone here have a release 3 or added a monarch plus to their bike. How many air volume spacers? I just added a third, I run 30%sag. Kept bottoming out. Is that normal?

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    ow much do you weigh? I am 280lbs, and had the same problem, so I bought a Manitou McLeod with King Can and never looked back.

  37. #1837
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    200 lbs

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ethang_1988 View Post
    Right on! Those wheels that you linked to are 30.5mm wide, and I know that is only a little wider than the blanchard 28r that come with the release 3, but will 30.5mm fit okay?

    Thanks!
    I just installed wheels on mine that are i35 and 40mm outer width. Fit just fine.
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    Quote Originally Posted by richard451 View Post
    ow much do you weigh? I am 280lbs, and had the same problem, so I bought a Manitou McLeod with King Can and never looked back.
    Same here. Much nicer shock for sure.
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  40. #1840
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nubster View Post
    I just installed wheels on mine that are i35 and 40mm outer width. Fit just fine.
    Thanks for the response Nubster! Once I have some extra cash, I am looking at getting a new set of wheels so that I can go back to tubeless. I am keeping my eyes out for a good used set as well, so knowing that these wider rims will fit opens up a lot of possibilities in the used market. Unfortunately I live in Indiana where there are not all that many people selling their parts. Pinkbike has been a lifesaver for finding good quality, used stuff.

  41. #1841
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    Took my freehub apart (2017 release 3 Novatec) to try a lighter grease (Phil's Tenacious Oil) in to address a loud clunking during engagement. I found the end caps loose to the touch. Reading upstream in this thread, it looks like folks have been using loctite blue?

  42. #1842
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    Yup. Blue Loctite. Just on the threads. A little goes a long ways.

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    Yes. I had nothing but problems with mine until I used loctite. No issues in the 500 miles since.

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    Done. Thank ya'll

  45. #1845
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    Ugggghhhh....
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Release: Any owners yet?-broken.jpg  

    Release: Any owners yet?-broken1.jpg  

    Release: Any owners yet?-broken2.jpg  

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  46. #1846
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    Using this as an excuse to go 12 speed.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nubster View Post
    Using this as an excuse to go 12 speed.
    What happened?!

  48. #1848
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    @Nubster well that sucks! Sorry to see that carnage, hopefully you get it sorted soon and back on the trails.
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  49. #1849
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    Quote Originally Posted by fst96se View Post
    What happened?!
    Stick went into the derailleur causing it to go into the spokes. So destroyed my X1 derailleur, busted 4 spokes and bent a 5th. Bent hanger. Bent cassette which may be repairable but not sure.
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  50. #1850
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    Quote Originally Posted by Guy.Ford View Post
    @Nubster well that sucks! Sorry to see that carnage, hopefully you get it sorted soon and back on the trails.
    Yeah...wheel is at the shop and new group ordered. Fingers crossed everything is here by Friday as Saturday looks like perfect riding weather where I'm at.
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  51. #1851
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    Is anyone interested in a large frame in the graphite blue color? Maybe someone ordered the wrong size? Just feelers

  52. #1852
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    Installed this today. Can't wait to try it tomorrow. 11 speed stuff will go on the torrent eventually once I start to rebuild it.

    Release: Any owners yet?-58694242_10157132813084291_6656686322201133056_o.jpg
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  53. #1853
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    Quote Originally Posted by wtguy View Post
    Question for Release owners ... is the "Diamondback" lettering on the downtube and rear triangle, etc. done with stickers or is it some kind of paint overlay (I dare not put a fingernail to it). If the former, has anyone "murdered out" their release?
    I Sanded down my entire frame when the warranty frame arrived, painted, before pressing in New bearings and assembling the bike 😊

  54. #1854
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    Quote Originally Posted by smithers166 View Post
    Is anyone interested in a large frame in the graphite blue color? Maybe someone ordered the wrong size? Just feelers
    Well crap. I just ordered a Release 4C a few days ago and it'll be here Monday, otherwise this would've worked out great.

  55. #1855
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    Anyone else have issues with the rear TA coming loose during rides? Mine seems to every ride no matter how much I tighten it down. Thinking about replacing it with a non-QR style TA. Anyone know the thread? I have one on my Torrent but the threading is different so I can't use it on the Release.
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  56. #1856
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nubster View Post
    Anyone else have issues with the rear TA coming loose during rides? Mine seems to every ride no matter how much I tighten it down. Thinking about replacing it with a non-QR style TA. Anyone know the thread? I have one on my Torrent but the threading is different so I can't use it on the Release.
    12 MM X 180 MM X 1.75 THREAD. My Norco is 12 MM X 174 MM X 1.75 THREAD so too short which is why it wouldn't work. I thought the thread pitch was different but come to find out it was too short.
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  57. #1857
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nubster View Post
    Anyone else have issues with the rear TA coming loose during rides? Mine seems to every ride no matter how much I tighten it down. Thinking about replacing it with a non-QR style TA. Anyone know the thread? I have one on my Torrent but the threading is different so I can't use it on the Release.
    Yes, I had the same problem. Switched to a non-QR. Can't remember the specifics of the axle (bought it about 6 months ago), but I'll find the details for you. No problems since the switch.

    On edit: I used the "axle finder" tool here, and, as suggested, purchased the a 12 mm x 180 mm with 1.75 thread. Nice product that got the job done.
    Last edited by JT1; 04-29-2019 at 01:38 PM.

  58. #1858
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    Ah that sucks. Well have fun on the 4C

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    I have a 2017 release 1. I am getting a new fork, but I need torque caps. does anyone know what kind works with the stock hub? Thanks

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    Quote Originally Posted by Thunderboltgreaseslapper View Post
    I have a 2017 release 1. I am getting a new fork, but I need torque caps. does anyone know what kind works with the stock hub? Thanks
    What fork? The hub you have is a Novatec (Joytech) D711SB-B15, I found a part number for RS forks. I assume you have the normal end caps that came with the fork Yari RC and bike?
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  61. #1861
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    Quote Originally Posted by Guy.Ford View Post
    What fork? The hub you have is a Novatec (Joytech) D711SB-B15, I found a part number for RS forks. I assume you have the normal end caps that came with the fork Yari RC and bike?
    Thanks Guy, you're a great resource. I will be running a 2018 140 mm rock shox revelation. I have the original end caps, but not torque caps. I sold the original yari in December and I don't remember if it had torque cap spacing, but the revelation definitely does. I may have shipped them out when I sold the Yari. thanks again

  62. #1862
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thunderboltgreaseslapper View Post
    Thanks Guy, you're a great resource. I will be running a 2018 140 mm rock shox revelation. I have the original end caps, but not torque caps. I sold the original yari in December and I don't remember if it had torque cap spacing, but the revelation definitely does. I may have shipped them out when I sold the Yari. thanks again
    Ok no bother. I've emailed my contacts at Novatec to see if they can offer some assistance. I'll let you know what I find.
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  63. #1863
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    Just ordered a release 1. What dropper posts do you recommend and what size? I'm 6'
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    Brand-X Ascent 150 or 170mm from ChainReactionCycles is a decent economical option.

  65. #1865
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    Yea that's one definitely on my list. I'm also eye-balling the PNW Rainier IR/ the Loam lever...
    19 Diamondback Release 1
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  66. #1866
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    Release: Any owners yet?-64318607_10157258055714291_6331377931469717504_o.jpg
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  67. #1867
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    Quote Originally Posted by ronmcmanus View Post
    Yea that's one definitely on my list. I'm also eye-balling the PNW Rainier IR/ the Loam lever...
    I got a 150mm PNW Rainier and a 150mm Brand X Ascend if you are interested

  68. #1868
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    Quote Originally Posted by klatekin View Post
    I got a 150mm PNW Rainier and a 150mm Brand X Ascend if you are interested
    PM'd
    19 Diamondback Release 1
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