Any Carbon Release (5c, 4c) owners yet?- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Any Carbon Release (5c, 4c) owners yet?

    OK, so the carbon release is finally out and all the rumors, assumptions, and guesses are put to rest, lets see who's the first to get one and their thoughts.
    2016 Salsa Bucksaw Carbon
    2016 Pivot Mach 6 Carbon

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    5c en route. Pending any delays, first ride will be Saturday. Btw trying to get a hold of dpx2 spacers and 2018 36 spacers are a pain. LBS is the only way I found. I have them on order to be here next week.

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    Quote Originally Posted by nochamois View Post
    5c en route. Pending any delays, first ride will be Saturday. Btw trying to get a hold of dpx2 spacers and 2018 36 spacers are a pain. LBS is the only way I found. I have them on order to be here next week.
    Awesome. Can't wait for the pics and your reviews.
    2016 Salsa Bucksaw Carbon
    2016 Pivot Mach 6 Carbon

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    Release 5c

    Unboxing:

    The box was in very good shape. Inside it was packaged very well, not any excess. The bike was in great condition, there was only some tire rub on the head tube. It came with the product manuals for all the major parts, shock pump, pedals, derailleur hanger, tubeless valves, mudguard, torque wrench, and some other small things Iím probably over looking. Everything you need if you just want to put it together and go.

    Assembly:

    I took the long way to the trail and checked everything. Greased and torqued all level link pivots. I only found one bolt washer completely dry and a little stuck, everything was torqued pretty much to spec. Checked rear derailleur hanger alignment, that was spot on. Removed spoke guard, reflectors, etc because.. umm weight. Retorqued cassette. Checked indexing on rear derailleur, only minor adjustment between the 5-7th cog. Setup tubeless, and both rims came pretaped! The rim tire interface was awesome and seated first try on each with a regular pump. Aligned front and rear brake calipers. Installed new grips, the OneUp EDC in the steerer tube, one decal, and my DMR Vaults.

    Thoughts after assembly: I have a longer inseam for my height, and I could easily fit a 150mm with room to spare instead of the 125mm it came with. If I did it the quick way, it would have taken no time: the dropper post was installed in less than a minute; handlebars were setup well; and cable routing on the bike is solid. There is NO room inside the frame for a water bottle on a size medium. The smaller details are nice: they aligned the tire logo on the rim, the seat is angled correctly, they labeled left and right on the cranks for those who may be new to bike maintenance, crank boots on the crank arms, QR code to register, and easy to understand videos online.

    First ride:
    So I spent the night and morning getting ready to give myself a good few hours at my favorite trail center. Just to realize one mile out I forgot my brain bucket. So a 1 hour delay to pick up a new one brought me back and I only had one run. Anyways, the bike is phenomenal. Iím not going to talk as if Iím some Enduro Pro Bro, Iím a hobbyist who enjoys going fast and being outside.
    The suspension is great and supportive. I thought I had the rear a little soft when I was prepping last night. Then during the ride I felt no bob unless I was standing to the point where halfway through I had to check to make sure I had the shock in full open, which it was. Itís super stable down and had to stop a few times to give the people ahead of me space so I wouldnít run them down (I have a big huge total of 0 KOMs). I hit crank once and the bash guard once, when I normally have half a dozen pedal strikes a ride.

    Component check:
    I was initially worried about the 34t chainring even though itís eagle. I was running the xt 11-46 on my old bike. Shifts were super clean and I had all the range I needed considering I havenít ridden in a couple months.
    The WT tires were great and I probably need to go down in pressure. I was running 24f-26r and the trail was super dry.
    The novatec hubs are their new endurbro hubs. Itís over 80 poe by my count. They are crisp and can be heard but arenít I9 loud.
    The handlebar and stem work. Not much to say there besides the stem length seems on point.

    Overall:
    This bike is a great package. The only thing I can poke at is the dropper length, and Iím the kind that burns to change/upgrade all the time. It is perfect for the terrain I ride, where 160/170mm of rear travel is overkill.
    I was originally looking at a Mach 5.5, Calling, and 5010. Once I saw this pop up I bought it immediately. The week of waiting made me wonder if I should have gotten one of the 5010ís on sale, or try and piece and part one of the other two. After today I have no doubt I made the right choice and spent my money right (not a dentist so this bike was a big deal).

    Let me know if you have specific questions and Iíll the best I can.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by nochamois View Post
    Release 5c

    Unboxing:

    The box was in very good shape. Inside it was packaged very well, not any excess. The bike was in great condition, there was only some tire rub on the head tube. It came with the product manuals for all the major parts, shock pump, pedals, derailleur hanger, tubeless valves, mudguard, torque wrench, and some other small things Iím probably over looking. Everything you need if you just want to put it together and go.

    Assembly:

    I took the long way to the trail and checked everything. Greased and torqued all level link pivots. I only found one bolt washer completely dry and a little stuck, everything was torqued pretty much to spec. Checked rear derailleur hanger alignment, that was spot on. Removed spoke guard, reflectors, etc because.. umm weight. Retorqued cassette. Checked indexing on rear derailleur, only minor adjustment between the 5-7th cog. Setup tubeless, and both rims came pretaped! The rim tire interface was awesome and seated first try on each with a regular pump. Aligned front and rear brake calipers. Installed new grips, the OneUp EDC in the steerer tube, one decal, and my DMR Vaults.

    Thoughts after assembly: I have a longer inseam for my height, and I could easily fit a 150mm with room to spare instead of the 125mm it came with. If I did it the quick way, it would have taken no time: the dropper post was installed in less than a minute; handlebars were setup well; and cable routing on the bike is solid. There is NO room inside the frame for a water bottle on a size medium. The smaller details are nice: they aligned the tire logo on the rim, the seat is angled correctly, they labeled left and right on the cranks for those who may be new to bike maintenance, crank boots on the crank arms, QR code to register, and easy to understand videos online.

    First ride:
    So I spent the night and morning getting ready to give myself a good few hours at my favorite trail center. Just to realize one mile out I forgot my brain bucket. So a 1 hour delay to pick up a new one brought me back and I only had one run. Anyways, the bike is phenomenal. Iím not going to talk as if Iím some Enduro Pro Bro, Iím a hobbyist who enjoys going fast and being outside.
    The suspension is great and supportive. I thought I had the rear a little soft when I was prepping last night. Then during the ride I felt no bob unless I was standing to the point where halfway through I had to check to make sure I had the shock in full open, which it was. Itís super stable down and had to stop a few times to give the people ahead of me space so I wouldnít run them down (I have a big huge total of 0 KOMs). I hit crank once and the bash guard once, when I normally have half a dozen pedal strikes a ride.

    Component check:
    I was initially worried about the 34t chainring even though itís eagle. I was running the xt 11-46 on my old bike. Shifts were super clean and I had all the range I needed considering I havenít ridden in a couple months.
    The WT tires were great and I probably need to go down in pressure. I was running 24f-26r and the trail was super dry.
    The novatec hubs are their new endurbro hubs. Itís over 80 poe by my count. They are crisp and can be heard but arenít I9 loud.
    The handlebar and stem work. Not much to say there besides the stem length seems on point.

    Overall:
    This bike is a great package. The only thing I can poke at is the dropper length, and Iím the kind that burns to change/upgrade all the time. It is perfect for the terrain I ride, where 160/170mm of rear travel is overkill.
    I was originally looking at a Mach 5.5, Calling, and 5010. Once I saw this pop up I bought it immediately. The week of waiting made me wonder if I should have gotten one of the 5010ís on sale, or try and piece and part one of the other two. After today I have no doubt I made the right choice and spent my money right (not a dentist so this bike was a big deal).

    Let me know if you have specific questions and Iíll the best I can.
    Awesome review. Is it a medium? What's the weight of it as it stands?
    2016 Salsa Bucksaw Carbon
    2016 Pivot Mach 6 Carbon

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    Bathroom scale method: between 31.7 and 32 lbs. Size medium.

  7. #7
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    Nice. Thanks
    2016 Salsa Bucksaw Carbon
    2016 Pivot Mach 6 Carbon

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    I'm looking at getting the 4C but I'm scared of the set up. When you say you had to adjust the calipers, what do you mean? Is it easy? Do I need special tools? Also does the bike come with sealant for tubeless or did you have to get that yourself?

    And the level links. Did you have to disassemble all the pivots and reassemble? Any issues with alignment as has been reported with the aluminum releases?



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    Adjusting the calipers when I bought my Release consisted of: Loosening the brake mount, squeezing the brake lever to center the brake on the rotor, tightening the brake mount back up while the brake was actuated, releasing the brake lever. Done in under 5 minutes.

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    Quote Originally Posted by tabbibus View Post
    I'm looking at getting the 4C but I'm scared of the set up. When you say you had to adjust the calipers, what do you mean? Is it easy? Do I need special tools? Also does the bike come with sealant for tubeless or did you have to get that yourself?

    And the level links. Did you have to disassemble all the pivots and reassemble? Any issues with alignment as has been reported with the aluminum releases?



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    See above concerning brake calipers.

    For tubeless you need sealant. Iíve done it many times. You can look up videos on it, which help. Basically the steps are:
    1. Deflate tube
    2. Unscrew nut, pop off one side of tire from wheel, and remove tube.
    3. Install valve. Super finger tight is good enough. I wiggle the valve back and forth as I tighten it to make sure it is in all the way. If you use pliers, donít go too tight as you can pull the rubber in the back end of the valve through the hole. A half turn past super hand tight is more than enough.
    4. Seat half the tire and pour 2-3oz of sealant into bottom.
    5. Slowly rotate tire and lever the rest of the tire on rim.
    6. Pinch and pull the bead close to the sidewall (this is something I do to help get the tire off of the rim bed and get it close to the edge of the rim to minimize air escaping).
    7. Hold wheel perpendicular to ground and pump up to 40 psi. You know the bead set if you hear a click or ping and it holds air.
    8. Swirl sealant around wheel and listen for leaks. Leave pressurized overnight.

    Materials: sealant (I like orangeís), tire levers (I use Pedroís. They are strong as hell and donít dent anything.)
    Time: 3-5 min per tire once you get it down.
    Major key: Patience. The most painful thing for me is taping, and since they come pretaped, itís pretty straight forward from there.

    Level Link pivots:
    I havenít followed the alignment issues on the aluminum versions, so I canít speak to that. I watched the video and did it.

    Tools: torque wrench (a basic one is included); 10mm Allen, 8mm Allen, 6 mm Allen, 4mm Allen, bike grease (the standard Park Tool bike grease is what I use for everything, marine bearing grease works too).

    Tips: deflate shock fully while pushing down on seat so you can manipulate the links into alignment once you pull the pivot. Remove rear wheel. The bearing covers can/will fall once you slide the pivot from the frame. To realign after greasing, I wrapped my hand around the frame to pinch the bearing covers on each side to keep from falling. Only do one pivot at a time so you donít mix up parts.

    Notes: This part is pretty easy. Nothing complicated here. Just follow the video. Unscrew the first bolt, remove washer, remove pivot bolt, slide pivot/frame, grease bearing covers, and reassemble greasing each piece as you put it back in. Torque values are 15NM for pivot bolt, 8NM for outside bolt.

    No need to be worried or scared about doing the above. This bike is very easy to work on. All the pivot bolts are on one side, and there are no weird or proprietary tools you need to work on it. Just take your time, one step at a time. And at the end you will have peace of mind and a bit more appreciation for your new bike!

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by nochamois View Post
    Bathroom scale method: between 31.7 and 32 lbs. Size medium.
    Wow, isn't that a bit on a heavy side, considering this is a carbon frame bike? What's the weight of an aluminum Release? Always thought that the main benefit of the carbon frame is a weight reduction. In any case, great review, and big CONGRATS on the bike!!!

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    New frame is only 1/2 lb lighter, it shouldn't suffer from (and doesn't sound to suffer from) the alignment issues associated to welded frames. Should be stronger and stiffer, but that may not be a benefit to all.

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    I admit I don't understand when people talk about frame stiffness when riding a bike with 5-6" travel and 20 psi in the tires

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    Can you give more review of the new bike after you've had a longer ride?

    I am considering doing the custom studio option to get some different parts I want on it and I built it in the same price and cheaper. Just wanted to hear more of your thoughts on sizing and ride feel compared to anything else you've been on.

    I'm currently on a Transition Scout size medium

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    The hubs should be 120 Poe!

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    Speaking f hubs and POE, I literally dreamed up an idea for a pawl/ratchet engagement scheme that will improve performance and reliability without changing much to the ratchet ring. Just a minor change to the pawl orientation. Any backers?
    2016 Salsa Bucksaw Carbon
    2016 Pivot Mach 6 Carbon

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    You need an NDA to get someone to buy you out and finance your patent without just stealing it from you :-D

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    Quote Originally Posted by Darth Lefty View Post
    You need an NDA to get someone to buy you out and finance your patent without just stealing it from you :-D
    Exactly. I need someone with a decent 3D printer and some modeling experience.
    2016 Salsa Bucksaw Carbon
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    Quote Originally Posted by tonyride1 View Post
    Exactly. I need someone with a decent 3D printer and some modeling experience.
    I have those...

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by avc8130 View Post
    I have those...
    At home? Don't want you get in trouble at work.
    2016 Salsa Bucksaw Carbon
    2016 Pivot Mach 6 Carbon

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    Went for another ride at my local trail.

    2nd Ride notes: Experienced heel rub on the upper drive side chainstay twice. It is shorter and wider at the rear end than my old bike. This trail had more quick, punch, and steep climbs than my first debacle. No front tire wander. I cleaned a coulpe sections that sometimes give me trouble no issue. I had one hard pedal strike the whole ride. Comparing times, I was at or better than all of my previous bests (noting I've been off the bike for a month and half).
    I added in 2 clicks of LSC on the fork. After the ride I check suspension pressures and realized I had not backed out LSC fully during setup (it was 4 from open). I'll report back after the next ride on differences. I'm 5'8" on a medium at about 170-172 riding weight. I'm right now at 69 psi in the fork, 4 LSR, 2 LSC. 154 in the shock, 3 LSR, 0 LSC.

    Sizing: I have long arms and legs with a shorter torso. So I was happy when I saw that I was in the middle of the sizing for Medium on their chart. 5'8" on the Calling and Mach 5.5 is at the bottom end for a medium. I have never ridden the scout but my old bike had older geo. 68 HA, 435+ CS, I'll have to look up the stack and reach. The 5c feels great. I don't feel stretched out or cramped. It feels right. I have a 35mm and 50mm stem on the shelf, and don't feel any need to change. I will be trimming the bars 10mm, but that is it. I also dropped the stem 4mm. But those are all minor.

    Note on weight: I don't think this bike was built to be a light weight xc/trail machine. With a 36 on the front and dpx2 in the rear, it is built to be capable more than a typical 130mm bike. Lighter pedals, lighter tires (it has a 2.5f/2.4r over 900g each), carbon bar, and carbon wheels, I think it can easily get under 30. It doesn't feel heavy. And I can't feel it in my lungs or legs after/during the ride either.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by nochamois View Post
    Went for another ride at my local trail.

    2nd Ride notes: Experienced heel rub on the upper drive side chainstay twice. It is shorter and wider at the rear end than my old bike. This trail had more quick, punch, and steep climbs than my first debacle. No front tire wander. I cleaned a coulpe sections that sometimes give me trouble no issue. I had one hard pedal strike the whole ride. Comparing times, I was at or better than all of my previous bests (noting I've been off the bike for a month and half).
    I added in 2 clicks of LSC on the fork. After the ride I check suspension pressures and realized I had not backed out LSC fully during setup (it was 4 from open). I'll report back after the next ride on differences. I'm 5'8" on a medium at about 170-172 riding weight. I'm right now at 69 psi in the fork, 4 LSR, 2 LSC. 154 in the shock, 3 LSR, 0 LSC.

    Sizing: I have long arms and legs with a shorter torso. So I was happy when I saw that I was in the middle of the sizing for Medium on their chart. 5'8" on the Calling and Mach 5.5 is at the bottom end for a medium. I have never ridden the scout but my old bike had older geo. 68 HA, 435+ CS, I'll have to look up the stack and reach. The 5c feels great. I don't feel stretched out or cramped. It feels right. I have a 35mm and 50mm stem on the shelf, and don't feel any need to change. I will be trimming the bars 10mm, but that is it. I also dropped the stem 4mm. But those are all minor.

    Note on weight: I don't think this bike was built to be a light weight xc/trail machine. With a 36 on the front and dpx2 in the rear, it is built to be capable more than a typical 130mm bike. Lighter pedals, lighter tires (it has a 2.5f/2.4r over 900g each), carbon bar, and carbon wheels, I think it can easily get under 30. It doesn't feel heavy. And I can't feel it in my lungs or legs after/during the ride either.
    Thanks for the 2nd review!
    I'm now pretty set on the 5C, and my wife has also given the green light for me to purchase it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by lpxaudio View Post
    Thanks for the 2nd review!
    I'm now pretty set on the 5C, and my wife has also given the green light for me to purchase it.
    Quick before she changes her mind!

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    Quote Originally Posted by avc8130 View Post
    Quick before she changes her mind!
    I had the same conversation with mine. For the price, spec, and capability, itís pretty hard to beat. And the way I see it, if I want something new in a few years, all of the parts are to the newest ďstandardĒ so theyíll transfer over. But based on what Iíve experienced so far, it will be a long time before I may want anything different. It is almost purpose built for what I ride.

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    Awesome review. I've been looking at this bike a lot. My Scout has a 432 reach and I think the 5c has a 429, I don't think I'll notice the 3mm difference and feel cramped. I'm also 5'8, which I was wondering about how it fits. Most of the geo is similar to my Scout but this 5c has a slightly more 'hard charger' build kit on it. Not that I'm a hard charger, I'm family man/ teacher who enjoys going as fast as I can whenever I can on the bike.

    Thanks again for your reviews,

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    I pulled the trigger on a 4C - should have it this week. I'll post more details when it arrives.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Spocknasty View Post
    I pulled the trigger on a 4C - should have it this week. I'll post more details when it arrives.
    Please do. That's the one I'm eyeing

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    Quote Originally Posted by tabbibus View Post
    Please do. That's the one I'm eyeing
    I had a standing order on the Release 2 and decided that the Shimano shifter (I prefer thumb and pointer finger shifting) and slightly lighter frame would be better for me. I can always upgrade components as I go.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Spocknasty View Post
    I had a standing order on the Release 2 and decided that the Shimano shifter (I prefer thumb and pointer finger shifting) and slightly lighter frame would be better for me. I can always upgrade components as I go.
    Slx kit Is good stuff.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Spocknasty View Post
    I pulled the trigger on a 4C - should have it this week. I'll post more details when it arrives.
    Nice. Anxiously awaiting your thoughts on that one. Slx should be good stuff and doubt your giving up much in the way of suspension with the 'performance series' over the 'elite'

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    Quote Originally Posted by michaelbarnard View Post
    Nice. Anxiously awaiting your thoughts on that one. Slx should be good stuff and doubt your giving up much in the way of suspension with the 'performance series' over the 'elite'
    I'm coming from a 2016 Trek Marlin 7 that has been thoroughly desecrated and pushed far beyond its intended purpose - somehow still wobbling its way through the miles. The 4C should be an all around improvement aside from overall weight.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Spocknasty View Post
    I pulled the trigger on a 4C - should have it this week. I'll post more details when it arrives.
    Awesome. Can't wait for the pics and reviews.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spocknasty View Post
    The 4C should be an all around improvement aside from overall weight.
    If you decide the weight is a problem then the 4C is the best place in the Release line up to start weight-weanie-ing. As delivered it's already 0.5 lb. lighter than the 5C. The suspension components are the lightest of any stock Release model. Drivetrain, wheels, dropper, handlebars, etc can all be replaced with lighter versions over time. By the time you're back up to around the cost of a 5C you could have a bike weighing almost 4 lbs less. Sure it would be less capable barreling DH than the 5C, but many might prefer a custom 28 lb. 4C with a lighter suspension to the somewhat stout 32 lb. 5C.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Stepford View Post
    If you decide the weight is a problem then the 4C is the best place in the Release line up to start weight-weanie-ing. As delivered it's already 0.5 lb. lighter than the 5C. The suspension components are the lightest of any stock Release model. Drivetrain, wheels, dropper, handlebars, etc can all be replaced with lighter versions over time. By the time you're back up to around the cost of a 5C you could have a bike weighing almost 4 lbs less. Sure it would be less capable barreling DH than the 5C, but many might prefer a custom 28 lb. 4C with a lighter suspension to the somewhat stout 32 lb. 5C.
    I think that is the main difference. With the e*thirteen cassette, xt/xtr components, carbon bits, you can have a light whip as opposed to a burly sled. I went with the 5c for the 36, dpx2, Eagle, etc. You can definitely build up a sub 29/28lb bike around the 34/dps.

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    In the custom studio section you can build it out a little cheaper than the 5c, not sure about weight as it doesn't calculate as you build it.

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    A very large box arrived today!



    The packaging was all around very impressive. I work in marketing and was pleasantly surprised at the presentation of materials included.



    I noticed the mention of damage in shipping in other threads - unfortunately mine arrived with one noticeable mar, seen below, and a few light scratches in other spots - which is a shame but not a big deal considering its life is going to be filled with WICKED THRASHINGS.



    Assembly was rather fast and fun - and then it was time for spin around the yard for a few minutes.



    Initial impressions:
    - I'm 5'8" with lil' limbs, it's weird. My previous bike was small and comfortable to throw around, I was worried about going M. My fears were dispelled immediately - the cockpit felt great without any tweaks.
    -The fork and shock are outstanding, surprisingly rigid when locked out.
    -The bike is fun to play around with on flat ground. It's really manual friendly, bunny hops around well.
    - This is my first dropper post experience...how the hell have I been riding this long without a dropper post!?! The KS LEV SI is really fast and precise.
    - I've never heard a rear hub so noisy while freewheeling?
    - Pedals are a solid lock on with Five Ten's.

    Tomorrow I'll thoroughly torque everything and do a test and tune at a local trail!

  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spocknasty View Post
    A very large box arrived today!



    The packaging was all around very impressive. I work in marketing and was pleasantly surprised at the presentation of materials included.



    I noticed the mention of damage in shipping in other threads - unfortunately mine arrived with one noticeable mar, seen below, and a few light scratches in other spots - which is a shame but not a big deal considering its life is going to be filled with WICKED THRASHINGS.



    Assembly was rather fast and fun - and then it was time for spin around the yard for a few minutes.



    Initial impressions:
    - I'm 5'8" with lil' limbs, it's weird. My previous bike was small and comfortable to throw around, I was worried about going M. My fears were dispelled immediately - the cockpit felt great without any tweaks.
    -The fork and shock are outstanding, surprisingly rigid when locked out.
    -The bike is fun to play around with on flat ground. It's really manual friendly, bunny hops around well.
    - This is my first dropper post experience...how the hell have I been riding this long without a dropper post!?! The KS LEV SI is really fast and precise.
    - I've never heard a rear hub so noisy while freewheeling?
    - Pedals are a solid lock on with Five Ten's.

    Tomorrow I'll thoroughly torque everything and do a test and tune at a local trail!
    Amazing. Thanks. Keep the updates rolling. Any issues bottoming out? how much do you weigh?

    Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

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    Awesome. Too bad about the scrapes and stuff but yeah, you'll get a lot more of those after just a couple of rides. Can't wait to hear about it after a few good real rides. I'm no weight weenie but did you happen to weigh it either with our without pedals?
    2016 Salsa Bucksaw Carbon
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    Bike looks awesome. Can't wait to hear about it

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    Hit the trails today (Idlewood / Neshaminy) - terrible conditions with mud and wet leaves. The trails are very rocky and rooty. Perfect conditions to test!



    I went over the bike and torqued everything. While riding I set up the air pressure in the fork and shock to my weight and played around a bit.

    I've had other bikes, but lately I've been riding a small Trek Marlin hardtail. My riding style on this was to act as the suspension and stay prone and light on the bike, letting it move around - a very intimate riding experience. Now the 4C has a real suspension and I have to lock in and trust it to do the job.

    I feel like I've gone from a Cayman to a 911 - in the sense that I've upgraded but it definitely feels like there is more bike under me which is going to take some getting used to.

    The bike is SOLID, you feel like you are on something high quality beyond the price range in terms of rigidity. Both my friend and I let out something akin to a "whoa" within the first few seconds of getting on the saddle. The bike feels very solid and well composed. I very much like the Level Link suspension as I always felt like the rear was operating independent of my input and soaking up the trail - yet at the same time I felt very well connected - with everything locked up it was almost like riding a hard tail! I was powering up climbs faster than I was able to before. The Fox 34 fork is quite good. Minimal diving under braking and it doesn't rob you of energy if you stand up and pedal hard to climb. Speaking of climbing, the bike climbs great! All the trails were covered in leaves and the bike clawed its way through everything.

    The brakes do the job, not the most bite I've ever felt and not the best modulation, but they stop the bike well.

    The shifting is crisp and precise, I don't miss 3x9! This is personal taste, but I would like to upgrade the SLX shifter to something higher up the range, I just don't like the plastic feel especially considering how much time your fingers spend on it. XTR?

    While my sag is set within range, pedal strikes were a major issue as i kept catching my feet on rocks while trying to put the power on. This is a major concern as I ride very aggressively - I'm worried I'm trading ground clearance for suspension.

    Did I think the bike felt heavy? Not really. Next week I'm going to transfer over a carbon bar with different grips and convert to tubeless to shed some weight.

    I'll update more when I take it out for a real ride at Nockamixon next week.

  41. #41
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    Awesome.
    2016 Salsa Bucksaw Carbon
    2016 Pivot Mach 6 Carbon

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    Nice review. Sounds like an awesome bike.

    Can anyone help out with a decision I have about this bike?

    I am in the custom studio and you can choose suspension, fox vs rock shox. I am considering the fox 34 up front with the dps inline, or put the pike on front with M+ with piggyback.

    I currently have a pike and monarch debonair inline, and it works fine. I'm in Texas hill country so rides are mainly rocky with mild drops off ledges, and average 15miles a ride with 1000 ft of climbing, so basically everything is punchy ups and downs. I also go to Arkansas a few times a year. I don't feel like a piggyback is necessary, but at the same time I don't know if the new fox dps evol is good. The reviews seem to be okay but nothing majorly better than the monarch.

    Anyways if anyone has any suggestions please feel free to help.

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    Quote Originally Posted by michaelbarnard View Post
    Nice review. Sounds like an awesome bike.

    Can anyone help out with a decision I have about this bike?

    I am in the custom studio and you can choose suspension, fox vs rock shox. I am considering the fox 34 up front with the dps inline, or put the pike on front with M+ with piggyback.

    I currently have a pike and monarch debonair inline, and it works fine. I'm in Texas hill country so rides are mainly rocky with mild drops off ledges, and average 15miles a ride with 1000 ft of climbing, so basically everything is punchy ups and downs. I also go to Arkansas a few times a year. I don't feel like a piggyback is necessary, but at the same time I don't know if the new fox dps evol is good. The reviews seem to be okay but nothing majorly better than the monarch.

    Anyways if anyone has any suggestions please feel free to help.
    I've played around in the custom studio a lot. All it proves to me is how smoking of a deal the 5c is!

    Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

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    Yeah I hear ya, I've put together so many different builds at unheard of prices. I'm still just torn on suspension. These are good problems to have

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    Quote Originally Posted by avc8130 View Post
    I've played around in the custom studio a lot. All it proves to me is how smoking of a deal the 5c is!

    Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
    I did the same before getting the 5c. I kept doing the options and the 5c package is pretty robust for the price.

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    From what I read there is ~$1000 markup on custom bikes, even if you configure them similar to a 4c 5c stock build. This is because the custom bikes aren't coming off an assembly line, they're hand-built in Seattle, WA and that ain't free.

    EDIT:
    still a good deal VS building your own. Ever see how much WE have to pay for components?

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    So by going through the custom studio and building up an equally good kit but at the equivalent or lower price point of the 5C I am still overpaying in a way, vs just getting the 5C as is?

    Also would it be better or worse to have it hand built vs assembly line? I guess both can have flaws on greasing and tightening pivots and such.

    Just looking for the best bang for my buck, I like the 5c as is, but unsure of the Guide RS brakes, ive heard good and bad, so I almost would rather go in the custom studio and put XT on or Guide RSC/ultimate. That is really one of my main hangups on just going for 5c as is. Wheels don't bother me as much, can always upgrade down the road for a lighter set. Just trying to cut some weight off its stock 31 pounds and still get a good build for the money.

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    Quote Originally Posted by michaelbarnard View Post
    So by going through the custom studio and building up an equally good kit but at the equivalent or lower price point of the 5C I am still overpaying in a way, vs just getting the 5C as is?

    Also would it be better or worse to have it hand built vs assembly line? I guess both can have flaws on greasing and tightening pivots and such.

    Just looking for the best bang for my buck, I like the 5c as is, but unsure of the Guide RS brakes, ive heard good and bad, so I almost would rather go in the custom studio and put XT on or Guide RSC/ultimate. That is really one of my main hangups on just going for 5c as is. Wheels don't bother me as much, can always upgrade down the road for a lighter set. Just trying to cut some weight off its stock 31 pounds and still get a good build for the money.
    Bang for the buck is buy the 5c, if you do your own work and don't want to bleed the guides or deal with heat failures...buy shimano set for 200. My personal recommendation is buy 5c and a set of shimano Zees, take the guides off and resell as like new.

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    Quote Originally Posted by michaelbarnard View Post
    So by going through the custom studio and building up an equally good kit but at the equivalent or lower price point of the 5C I am still overpaying in a way, vs just getting the 5C as is?

    Also would it be better or worse to have it hand built vs assembly line? I guess both can have flaws on greasing and tightening pivots and such.

    Just looking for the best bang for my buck, I like the 5c as is, but unsure of the Guide RS brakes, ive heard good and bad, so I almost would rather go in the custom studio and put XT on or Guide RSC/ultimate. That is really one of my main hangups on just going for 5c as is. Wheels don't bother me as much, can always upgrade down the road for a lighter set. Just trying to cut some weight off its stock 31 pounds and still get a good build for the money.
    Or if you go custom, get carbon wheels. Makes a world of a difference.

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    Quote Originally Posted by DGrothen View Post
    Or if you go custom, get carbon wheels. Makes a world of a difference.
    The carbon Blanchards?

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    Quote Originally Posted by avc8130 View Post
    The carbon Blanchards?
    That's up to you, to my knowledge no one knows much about those except they have higher end novatech hubs.

    I'm personally on a set of Bontrager Line Pro's I found new on eBay. Dropped 1.25lbs from my Catch 2 which made a dramatic difference in technical sections, especially uphill. If you go with the 5C you're going to have tire weights similar to my 2.8 nobby nics due to the heavy minions (great tire) so I bet you'll appreciate the difference immediately. I'm only suggesting that if you go through custom studio as they have very affordable prices on carbon hoops vs retail by memory.

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    I wonder if we can just buy the carbon Blanchards.
    2016 Salsa Bucksaw Carbon
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    Quote Originally Posted by tonyride1 View Post
    I wonder if we can just buy the carbon Blanchards.
    I asked...not yet.

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    those blanchards have a 33mm internal which seems rather large, i dont want to run plus tires, im fine with just regular 2.35, 2.4 sizes. the Box carbon wheels in the custom studio look good, but i have even thought just going with the Stans Arch MK3 for a light set of wheels. Unsure on the stans neo hubs, but I would think theyd be ok.

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    33mm is appropriate for new "WT" tires.

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    Quote Originally Posted by DGrothen View Post
    Bang for the buck is buy the 5c, if you do your own work and don't want to bleed the guides or deal with heat failures...buy shimano set for 200. My personal recommendation is buy 5c and a set of shimano Zees, take the guides off and resell as like new.
    That's basically what I did but I went with the M7000's because they were only $75 per side and I freaking love them. Plug you're dealing with mineral oil when you bleed them versus SRAM. Zee's are great too from what I heard. I sold my Guide RS's for $196 on ebay.

    Carbon fan has some cool carbon MTB wheels I'm considering ~$700-800 seem to have good reviews so far.

    Best bang for your buck is definitely 5c and the money you save not going custom you can put towards different/specific upgrades (like carbon wheels).

    As for Seattle vs Overseas.. I like working on my bike, so either way I"m doing a run-down on the bike when I get it to make sure everything is torqued and greased.

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    Thanks for all the tips and suggestions. The 5C looks to be an awesome ride and cant wait to throw a leg over one.

  58. #58
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    I just had a chat with a Diamondback rep about the carbon Blanchard wheels and he said they're working on making them available for sale separately in a couple of months. I suspect they'll be available just in time for Christmas.
    2016 Salsa Bucksaw Carbon
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    wonder how much theyll be

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    i talked to a rep today on the online chat about the 5c and he said they hope to have the blanchard carbons for sale, but as of now he couldn't say for sure.

    I hope the one i talked is wrong and yours is right

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    I spoke to Bradley. Who did you chat with?
    2016 Salsa Bucksaw Carbon
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    That's who I'm talking to now. He confirmed what you said. The other guy I talked to was called 'reignout' on the chat. Didn't get his real name. But Bradley has been awesome.

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    Are we talking wheelsets or just rims?

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    I asked about wheels, but he didn't really say wheelsets or just rims

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    I asked about wheel set because the carbon Blanchard wheels come with the premium Novatech hubs. We didn't get into what that means specifically but is better than the stock hubs currently on the 5c with OEM wheels.
    2016 Salsa Bucksaw Carbon
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  66. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by tonyride1 View Post
    I asked about wheel set because the carbon Blanchard wheels come with the premium Novatech hubs. We didn't get into what that means specifically but is better than the stock hubs currently on the 5c with OEM wheels.
    Are you SURE about that? The hubs aren't listed in the 5c specs. I contacted DB about it and they said it came with the 120 POE Factor hubs. That should be the same as the cf wheelset. A 5c owner above confirmed this as well.

    ac

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    Quote Originally Posted by avc8130 View Post
    Are you SURE about that? The hubs aren't listed in the 5c specs. I contacted DB about it and they said it came with the 120 POE Factor hubs. That should be the same as the cf wheelset. A 5c owner above confirmed this as well.

    ac
    The hubs from the spec list on the 5c are the novatec xd642. I counted by ear just over 80. A vendor has them listed at 84 poe. Iíll be back next week and will look up the serial number. The novatec has them categorized as their Enduro hub. Riding them, they are crisp and pick up fast.

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    Quote Originally Posted by nochamois View Post
    The hubs from the spec list on the 5c are the novatec xd642. I counted by ear just over 80. A vendor has them listed at 84 poe. Iíll be back next week and will look up the serial number. The novatec has them categorized as their Enduro hub. Riding them, they are crisp and pick up fast.
    Where's that on the spec list?

    Frame
    Carbon Release 27.5, Monocoque Carbon Front and Rear Triangle, 130mm Travel, Level Link Suspension Platform, Euro Standard Threaded BB, ISCG-05 Tabs, Boost 148x12mm Maxle Drop Out, 1.5" Tapered Headtube, Post Mount Disc Tabs
    Rear Shock
    Fox Performance Elite Float DPX2, 3 Position Lever w/ Open Mode Adjust, LV EVOL, 200x57mm
    Fork
    Fox 36 Performance Elite Float, 27.5", 150mm Travel, Fit4, 3 Position Dampener, Rebound Adjust, 1.5" Tapered Steerer, 110x15mm Thru-axle
    Cranks
    Truvativ Descendant Carbon, w/ 34T Eagle Chainring
    Bottom Bracket
    SRAM GXP
    Front Derailleur
    MRP XCG V2 Alloy Bash Guard, 30-36T, ISCG-05
    Rear Derailleur
    SRAM XO1 Eagle, 12 Speed
    Shifter
    SRAM XO1 Eagle 12 Speed X-Actuation Trigger
    Cogset
    SRAM XG1295 Eagle, 12 Speed, 10-50T
    Chain
    SRAM XO1 Eagle, 12 Speed
    Spokes
    2.0/1.8/2.0 Butted Stainless Steel
    Rims
    RaceFace Arc30, Tubeless Compatible, 32h
    Tires
    Maxxis Minion DHF 27.5x2.5" EXO, WT, TLR, Folding / Maxxis Minion DHR 27.5x2.4" EXO, WT, TLR, Folding
    Brakes
    SRAM Guide RS Hydraulic Disc, w/ 180mm Front / 180mm Rear Centerline Rotors
    Brake Levers
    SRAM Guide RS
    Pedals
    DB4L CNC Platform, Sealed Cartidge Bearing w/ Replaceable Pins
    Handlebar
    Raceface ∆ffect R, 780mm Wide, 20mm Rise, 35mm Bar Bore
    Grips
    Ergon GE1 Lock-On
    Stem
    Raceface ∆ffect R 35, 40mm Reach, 35mm Bar Bore
    Seat
    WTB Volt Race
    Seatpost
    KS LEV Integra Internal Dropper, w/ SouthPaw Remote, 31.6mm, SM/MD = 125mm, LG/XL = 150mm
    Extras
    Ownerís Manual, Assembly Guide, DB Shock Pump, Tubless Valves, DB Torque Wrench w/ 3mm/ 4mm/ 5mm/ T25 Hex Bits, Diamondback Mud Guard, Extra Derailleur Hanger

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    Quote Originally Posted by avc8130 View Post
    Where's that on the spec list?

    Frame
    Carbon Release 27.5, Monocoque Carbon Front and Rear Triangle, 130mm Travel, Level Link Suspension Platform, Euro Standard Threaded BB, ISCG-05 Tabs, Boost 148x12mm Maxle Drop Out, 1.5" Tapered Headtube, Post Mount Disc Tabs
    Rear Shock
    Fox Performance Elite Float DPX2, 3 Position Lever w/ Open Mode Adjust, LV EVOL, 200x57mm
    Fork
    Fox 36 Performance Elite Float, 27.5", 150mm Travel, Fit4, 3 Position Dampener, Rebound Adjust, 1.5" Tapered Steerer, 110x15mm Thru-axle
    Cranks
    Truvativ Descendant Carbon, w/ 34T Eagle Chainring
    Bottom Bracket
    SRAM GXP
    Front Derailleur
    MRP XCG V2 Alloy Bash Guard, 30-36T, ISCG-05
    Rear Derailleur
    SRAM XO1 Eagle, 12 Speed
    Shifter
    SRAM XO1 Eagle 12 Speed X-Actuation Trigger
    Cogset
    SRAM XG1295 Eagle, 12 Speed, 10-50T
    Chain
    SRAM XO1 Eagle, 12 Speed
    Spokes
    2.0/1.8/2.0 Butted Stainless Steel
    Rims
    RaceFace Arc30, Tubeless Compatible, 32h
    Tires
    Maxxis Minion DHF 27.5x2.5" EXO, WT, TLR, Folding / Maxxis Minion DHR 27.5x2.4" EXO, WT, TLR, Folding
    Brakes
    SRAM Guide RS Hydraulic Disc, w/ 180mm Front / 180mm Rear Centerline Rotors
    Brake Levers
    SRAM Guide RS
    Pedals
    DB4L CNC Platform, Sealed Cartidge Bearing w/ Replaceable Pins
    Handlebar
    Raceface ∆ffect R, 780mm Wide, 20mm Rise, 35mm Bar Bore
    Grips
    Ergon GE1 Lock-On
    Stem
    Raceface ∆ffect R 35, 40mm Reach, 35mm Bar Bore
    Seat
    WTB Volt Race
    Seatpost
    KS LEV Integra Internal Dropper, w/ SouthPaw Remote, 31.6mm, SM/MD = 125mm, LG/XL = 150mm
    Extras
    Ownerís Manual, Assembly Guide, DB Shock Pump, Tubless Valves, DB Torque Wrench w/ 3mm/ 4mm/ 5mm/ T25 Hex Bits, Diamondback Mud Guard, Extra Derailleur Hanger
    I pulled specs elsewhere because DB didnít have it listed

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    Source?

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    Quote Originally Posted by avc8130 View Post
    Source?
    Experticity

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    Picked up my 5c on Saturday from local shop (had it sent there to save me having to recycle another bike box....).

    Changes I've made so far (mostly swaps from my recently sold Release 3):
    Stock bar --> Chromag CF cut to ~750mm
    Stock Rear wheel/hub --> Lightbicycle 728 AM rim on DTSwiss 350 hub
    Minion DHF/DHR tires --> Maxxis Ikon 2.35 set up tubeless
    Stock bash guard --> OneUP bash guide
    KS Southpaw remote --> RF Turbine remote
    Guide RS Brakes --> Set of spare shimanos I had lying around
    DB Pedals --> RF Chesters

    Final weight (on M frame) is 29.3 lbs with above changes. Most of the reduction came from the tires/tubes....those Minions are some beefy stuff and total overkill for MN singletrack imho, and the tubes are about 9 oz each!

    Unfortunately, I've not gotten a chance to give it a proper test yet, as the trails are just drying out and I sprained my AC joint last week during my farewell ride to MonkeyButt (the '16 Release 3), so it will probably be another couple of weeks till I'm able to give it a good thrashing, provided winter says away long enough...

    I'm looking forward to getting suspension set up, but for starters I have rebound and compression dampening about in the middle and sag around 30-35 in front and 20-25 in back (similar to what I had on the R3 w/ RockShox Pike/Monarch+ setup)

    The paint is beautiful in person. There are a couple of minor imperfections in the paint where it's slightly chipped near one of the cable guides on toptube and it's scratched a little on one of the seatstays (presumably done during assembly.)

  73. #73
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    Nice. Looks like a sub-30 lb. is easily obtainable with some minor changes and the greatest change is to the tires and tubeless conversion which most will do anyway.
    2016 Salsa Bucksaw Carbon
    2016 Pivot Mach 6 Carbon

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    Exactly. I know a lot of people have been talking carbon this and that for weight reduction, but just going to a non-DH type tire and going tubeless will drop about 2 lbs for about $150 outlay, assuming you don't already have tires you like and stuff for tubeless...I already had both in the garage, so it was a nice low cost weight reduction, and I'm getting a few bucks for the tires!

  75. #75
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    Outright weight is not the greatest reason for carbon wheels or frame... when it comes to mountain bikes, anyhow. Proportionally, you're just never going to get the change that you do when you swap a road bike from aluminum clinchers to carbon tubulars. Taking off rolling weight is a good thing, but it's easier/faster to do with the tires. You can shed a pound at each end switching to XC racing tires, and they roll faster, too. But it's a trade-off, obviously.

  76. #76
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    I can't wait for Seth's review of his 5c build. I was hoping he'd have it for his trip out west. I'm thinking he's going to pick it up on his way to Seattle... maybe.
    2016 Salsa Bucksaw Carbon
    2016 Pivot Mach 6 Carbon

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    right. I may end up going to something more like an Ardent up front if the Ikon's not cutting it, but the Minion is total overkill for dry trails around here unless I spend all my time at the closest lift-assisted riding!

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    There's not a lot of places you can take off big chunks of weight at a time and when you do it's expensive because it's something big to replace. Frame, rims, crankset. After that it's a bit here and a bit there for less money each time but probably way more dollars per gram lost overall. It seems like all the deals I can find on cranks are BB30 right now, too, not BSA

  79. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by Darth Lefty View Post
    There's not a lot of places you can take off big chunks of weight at a time and when you do it's expensive because it's something big to replace. Frame, rims, crankset. After that it's a bit here and a bit there for less money each time but probably way more dollars per gram lost overall. It seems like all the deals I can find on cranks are BB30 right now, too, not BSA
    Just make sure you look out for gxp compatible unless you want to change the BB too.

  80. #80
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    Quote Originally Posted by nochamois View Post
    Just make sure you look out for gxp compatible unless you want to change the BB too.
    aber naturlich

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    Kind of a silly question, but does anyone know where the serial # on the 5c is? All of my other bikes have it on the bottom of the BB, but I"m not seeing it. I'll chat w/ DB when I remember, but I don't think they're on line for another hour or so...
    Thanks!

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    Quote Originally Posted by cconely View Post
    Kind of a silly question, but does anyone know where the serial # on the 5c is? All of my other bikes have it on the bottom of the BB, but I"m not seeing it. I'll chat w/ DB when I remember, but I don't think they're on line for another hour or so...
    Thanks!
    Silver sticker on the bottom of the BB.

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    So I should NOT have removed and tossed that sticker...check!

    I chatted w/ support, sounds like there's another copy in the manual, so I'll just stick a few laminated copies of SN, name, phone # in seat tube, steerer tube, and bars later this week....

  84. #84
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    My aluminum bike had about twenty different shipping stickers that had the serial number

  85. #85
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    Are the people who own these bikes still loving them, anymore ride impressions coming out as youve spent more time on them

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    Quote Originally Posted by michaelbarnard View Post
    Are the people who own these bikes still loving them, anymore ride impressions coming out as youve spent more time on them
    Second this! We love to live vicariously through you guys. And maybe even pull the trigger on one soon.

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    I"ve only been for one gentle ride so far (messed up shoulder, blah blah) and I still have some set-up to take care of (suspenstion set up is kinda half way there so far, need to put bars a tad lower to match where they were on my R3), so I don't really have a full review, but I do love it! suspension takes hits like a champ even w/ half-baked set up; I don't think the Fox 36 is much better than the Pike was on the R3, but so far the DPX2 shock on the back feels like at least a noticeable change over the Monarch RC3 (my only real complaint w/ that shock is that it seemed to be a tad prone to running through full travel even w/ high-ish pressure and volume reducers.)

    I haven't put it through nearly enough to tell you if I notice any added stiffness in the frame vs the R3 that I was riding as recently as last week, and I can't honestly say whether it's worth $1900 more than the R3 at this point. It's awesome and a great value relative to what's on the market, but I do still feel that the R3 is still just a HUGE bang for buck at $2500! If the Release platform works for you, I don't see how you can lose w/ either the Release 3 or 5C!

  88. #88
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    I'll be making the purchase tonight and will post a review in a few weeks

  89. #89
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    Quote Originally Posted by lpxaudio View Post
    I'll be making the purchase tonight and will post a review in a few weeks
    Lovely.. which one?

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  90. #90
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    Release 5C Medium
    I'm 5'9 and coming from a really cheap hardtail I've been riding since early this year

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    Quote Originally Posted by lpxaudio View Post
    Release 5C Medium
    I'm 5'9 and coming from a really cheap hardtail I've been riding since early this year
    Same here! Although if I buy I'll do 4C. Can't wait to hear your thoughts

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  92. #92
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    I was really torn between Release 3, 4C and 5C..

    The best bang for your money is the release 3 but with a few people having issues with them i skipped the 2017's
    I would have gone with 4C instead of the 5C but the black on silver was no go for me.

    I thought, if I'm gonna be riding this bike for several years and make a pretty big investment (at least for me) I should be happy with all parts of the bike, even the aesthetics.

  93. #93
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    Quote Originally Posted by lpxaudio View Post
    I was really torn between Release 3, 4C and 5C..

    The best bang for your money is the release 3 but with a few people having issues with them i skipped the 2017's
    I would have gone with 4C instead of the 5C but the black on silver was no go for me.

    I thought, if I'm gonna be riding this bike for several years and make a pretty big investment (at least for me) I should be happy with all parts of the bike, even the aesthetics.
    For me I liked the silver more than the red. But I did not want buyers remorse in feeling like I was missing out or getting upgrade-itis and upsetting my wife with all the new packages. There is nothing missing on the 5C. Well except for a longer dropper post. And maybe matching grips. And a matching frame protector. And ...

  94. #94
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    Quote Originally Posted by nochamois View Post
    For me I liked the silver more than the red. But I did not want buyers remorse in feeling like I was missing out or getting upgrade-itis and upsetting my wife with all the new packages. There is nothing missing on the 5C. Well except for a longer dropper post. And maybe matching grips. And a matching frame protector. And ...
    lol...
    my wife was actually pushing me to get the 5C instead of the 4C.
    Her reasoning was "get the best now so you don't end up buying more upgrades for it".

    btw, did the 5C come with any volume spacers for fork & rear shock?

  95. #95
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    Hold on a minute. You guys actually admit to your wives what you really paid for your bikes?
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  96. #96
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    Quote Originally Posted by tonyride1 View Post
    Hold on a minute. You guys actually admit to your wives what you really paid for your bikes?
    We have joint finances. She's the number person. I'm just a dumb physician. Ain't no hiding numbers from her. Lol.

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  97. #97
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    Quote Originally Posted by lpxaudio View Post
    lol...
    my wife was actually pushing me to get the 5C instead of the 4C.
    Her reasoning was "get the best now so you don't end up buying more upgrades for it".

    btw, did the 5C come with any volume spacers for fork & rear shock?
    Hahaha same here. And the custom I was building was a little beyond my means.

    And yes (I assume) fox has standard spacers they put in the fork and shock of their relative travel. I just got my spacers last week (I had to order them through my LBS because I couldnít find them at the time). Iím still sorting out the suspension so I havenít messed with it. Luckily they tune for average weight and Iím pretty close to that.

  98. #98
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    Just placed my order for the release 5C, hoping I can get it by Saturday since I'm in California!

  99. #99
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    I don't know if anyone is aware but the TAKE10 code for 10% off works for non-Corp prices. So even if you have a Corp account and have already used your TAKE10 code you can use it as non-Corp and that's better than the Corp discount.
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  100. #100
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    Is there a torque chart you guys are using?
    I'm trying to torque everything down tonight but wasnt able to find anything useful in the included manual.

  101. #101
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    Quote Originally Posted by lpxaudio View Post
    Is there a torque chart you guys are using?
    I'm trying to torque everything down tonight but wasnt able to find anything useful in the included manual.
    On diamondbackís website the have a video showing how to service the pivots and he tells you the values. 15 Nm for main pivots and 8 Nm for the outer pivot bolt IIRC.

  102. #102
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    Quote Originally Posted by nochamois View Post
    On diamondbackís website the have a video showing how to service the pivots and he tells you the values. 15 Nm for main pivots and 8 Nm for the outer pivot bolt IIRC.
    I think it was determined that the video had the wrong values?

  103. #103
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    Quote Originally Posted by avc8130 View Post
    I think it was determined that the video had the wrong values?
    I must have missed that. But the values in the video seem to work well. No creaking yet. I backed a few off when I did initial setup with my digital torque wrench and the stiction was marginally higher than the values in the video; as to be expected.

    30 min later

    From DB direct. Pivot is 10-12 Nm. Collet (interior bolt aka the first one you remove) 8 Nm.

    I contacted them in case I had to re-torque mine.

  104. #104
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    Quote Originally Posted by nochamois View Post
    I must have missed that. But the values in the video seem to work well. No creaking yet. I backed a few off when I did initial setup with my digital torque wrench and the stiction was marginally higher than the values in the video; as to be expected.

    30 min later

    From DB direct. Pivot is 10-12 Nm. Collet (interior bolt aka the first one you remove) 8 Nm.

    I contacted them in case I had to re-torque mine.
    Thank you!
    Also, did you noticed that your saddle is VOLT PRO instead of the VOLT RACE they have listed on their site?
    A little extra bonus for us 5C owners

  105. #105
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    4C update.

    Switched the bar setup out to a 725mm Race Face Next Carbon Riser Bar, Easton Lock-On grips, and a wild card Bontrager stem I had laying around. Put in 16 miles at Six Mile Run, NJ on Saturday morning. Beautiful, flowy trail. This is the first chance I've had to take the bike out and hammer on it.

    I immediately noticed the increased weight over my small hardtrail - this is going to take some getting used to. It's a longer bike so I had to get used to the decreased turning radius as well. I spent some time dialing in the fork and it's doing the job great. I'm still working on playing with the rear shock to get it set up "right" - a larger spacer might be necessary. It climbs well, squats in hard. Holy hell this bike is fun to send. I hit the sections with jumps both ways, twice, with confidence I've never had. It does claw in quite well through turns - can't complain about any lack of traction whatsoever. All around it feels very capable and I'm looking forward to really dialing the bike in further. No issues whatsoever so far.

    I'm hoping to drop some weight for this weekends ride by going tubeless and I just removed the plastic dork disk on the rear wheel. A Race Face Atlas 50mm stem will also go on.

  106. #106
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spocknasty View Post
    4C update.

    Switched the bar setup out to a 725mm Race Face Next Carbon Riser Bar, Easton Lock-On grips, and a wild card Bontrager stem I had laying around. Put in 16 miles at Six Mile Run, NJ on Saturday morning. Beautiful, flowy trail. This is the first chance I've had to take the bike out and hammer on it.

    I immediately noticed the increased weight over my small hardtrail - this is going to take some getting used to. It's a longer bike so I had to get used to the decreased turning radius as well. I spent some time dialing in the fork and it's doing the job great. I'm still working on playing with the rear shock to get it set up "right" - a larger spacer might be necessary. It climbs well, squats in hard. Holy hell this bike is fun to send. I hit the sections with jumps both ways, twice, with confidence I've never had. It does claw in quite well through turns - can't complain about any lack of traction whatsoever. All around it feels very capable and I'm looking forward to really dialing the bike in further. No issues whatsoever so far.

    I'm hoping to drop some weight for this weekends ride by going tubeless and I just removed the plastic dork disk on the rear wheel. A Race Face Atlas 50mm stem will also go on.
    Wow, did you bring it there just for a shake down run? Because the Release is overkill for Six-Mile run. I think even my Catch is overkill and I only take my Mason Pro which is a hard tail there. You probably had a tough time on the Orange trail with all the twisties. I do ride there from time to time so maybe I'll see you there.
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  107. #107
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spocknasty View Post
    4C update.

    Switched the bar setup out to a 725mm Race Face Next Carbon Riser Bar, Easton Lock-On grips, and a wild card Bontrager stem I had laying around. Put in 16 miles at Six Mile Run, NJ on Saturday morning. Beautiful, flowy trail. This is the first chance I've had to take the bike out and hammer on it.

    I immediately noticed the increased weight over my small hardtrail - this is going to take some getting used to. It's a longer bike so I had to get used to the decreased turning radius as well. I spent some time dialing in the fork and it's doing the job great. I'm still working on playing with the rear shock to get it set up "right" - a larger spacer might be necessary. It climbs well, squats in hard. Holy hell this bike is fun to send. I hit the sections with jumps both ways, twice, with confidence I've never had. It does claw in quite well through turns - can't complain about any lack of traction whatsoever. All around it feels very capable and I'm looking forward to really dialing the bike in further. No issues whatsoever so far.

    I'm hoping to drop some weight for this weekends ride by going tubeless and I just removed the plastic dork disk on the rear wheel. A Race Face Atlas 50mm stem will also go on.
    why the narrow bars? 725 seems terrible narrow by today's standards. If you haven't had much time behind the 780s I suggest giving it a few more rides before you ditch them.

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    Quote Originally Posted by tonyride1 View Post
    Wow, did you bring it there just for a shake down run? Because the Release is overkill for Six-Mile run. I think even my Catch is overkill and I only take my Mason Pro which is a hard tail there. You probably had a tough time on the Orange trail with all the twisties. I do ride there from time to time so maybe I'll see you there.
    However, the Release is a great one-bike-quiver if you don't need either dedicated lightweight XC racer or long-travel downhill bomber. No need to nit-pick for not having a bevy of bikes to choose from. Ride whatcha brung (and a 4C is a helluva bike to have brung!)

  109. #109
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    Quote Originally Posted by tabbibus View Post
    why the narrow bars? 725 seems terrible narrow by today's standards. If you haven't had much time behind the 780s I suggest giving it a few more rides before you ditch them.
    725 might be just the ticket depending on what the rider's size and preference is. Folks seem to be honing in on some small details w/o appreciating the big picture here. Sounds like Spocknasty is off to a great start on the 4C!

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    Don't get me wrong cconely, I'm not being a downer. I'm super psyched about his 4C experience. I'm only commenting that he should give the wider bars a chance before ditching them. Maybe even cut them down a bit. 725 is pretty darn narrow and that can get hairy when it comes to fast downhills or other situations where good control is needed. But if it works for him, then it works!!!!

  111. #111
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    Actually at Six-Mile run where he rode a narrower bar is probably better through the twisty single track switchback on the Orange trail. Those turns are tight.
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    Quote Originally Posted by lpxaudio View Post
    Thank you!
    Also, did you noticed that your saddle is VOLT PRO instead of the VOLT RACE they have listed on their site?
    A little extra bonus for us 5C owners
    Yea! The more I get on it the more considerate things I find.

    For those asking about more ride impressions:

    Went out again today. Dropped the tires down to 22f/24r. It seemed perfect for the early fall: medium leaves on the ground and dry conditions. Learning to trust these tires as they have grip for days. After messing with the shock from the end of the last ride, it was great. Didnít add any lsc. Also didnít blow the ring off the shock. With full open lsc it is still a great pedaling platform. I checked twice to make sure I left it open (went otb once).

    The trail I went to this time has a little more technical climbs. The 5c handled it like a champ. Again more Strava prs or 2nds. After reading what is being done with the 4C it looks like this beast is very adaptable to ride styles/trail conditions. The 5c is a champ and it looks like the 4C with the 34 is more trail oriented than AM. The more input Iím reading from others combined with my own experience thus far, the more satisfied I am with my purchase.

  113. #113
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    dig the top tube decal!

  114. #114
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    Quote Originally Posted by cconely View Post
    dig the top tube decal!
    Thanks! Itís a DYED frame protector. The colors match the 5C perfect.

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    Mtbrís review is out. TL;DR it got a 5 out of 5.
    http://reviews.mtbr.com/diamondback-...rbon-5c-review

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    Quote Originally Posted by tonyride1 View Post
    Wow, did you bring it there just for a shake down run? Because the Release is overkill for Six-Mile run. I think even my Catch is overkill and I only take my Mason Pro which is a hard tail there. You probably had a tough time on the Orange trail with all the twisties. I do ride there from time to time so maybe I'll see you there.
    I brought it to ride, and it's certainly not overkill if you're trying to get a work out. I picked the 4C to be my "daily driver" because it's versatile and has decent kit for the price. My knees are giving me trouble so hard tail life is on pause right now - but I would like to build a super light hard tail which would replace my Marlin 7 down the line. If you're on Facebook, check out the PA / NJ Trail Riders group, sometimes we organize local rides!

    Quote Originally Posted by tabbibus View Post
    why the narrow bars? 725 seems terrible narrow by today's standards. If you haven't had much time behind the 780s I suggest giving it a few more rides before you ditch them.
    I had the 725 carbon laying around and it was right for me on my previous bike, put me in the perfect attack position, let me sweep through tight trees at Nox, and gave me no major issues with control as far as steering goes. I have short arms - a 6 year old's punch would connect before mine. (Disclaimer: I don't hit kids!). I'll see how the 725 fares on the 4C. The 780mm made me feel like I was pushing around a motorcycle - 750ish may do me well. That's fun though, experimenting and upgrading - also keeps me from dumping gross money into the sports car to get my fix.

  117. #117
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spocknasty View Post
    I brought it to ride, and it's certainly not overkill if you're trying to get a work out. I picked the 4C to be my "daily driver" because it's versatile and has decent kit for the price. My knees are giving me trouble so hard tail life is on pause right now - but I would like to build a super light hard tail which would replace my Marlin 7 down the line. If you're on Facebook, check out the PA / NJ Trail Riders group, sometimes we organize local rides!
    Sweet. There's regular group of friends up north (Allamuchy/Mahlon Dickerson area) that I ride with on a regular basis but I'll check you guys out for local rides. Thanks for the invite.
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  118. #118
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    For you guys that have it how much room is there for tires? I see it comes with 2.5 in front and 2.3 rear just wondering how much bigger you could go.

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  119. #119
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    ^this may be totally irrelevant info, but its all I have. On a 2016 Release 3, a 2.8 on i32's don't fit, a 2.35 Schwalbe Hans Dampf on i32's do fit with room to clear, and I've hear of people running 2.5's on i28's on the rear of Release 3's. Clearance on the seat or chainstays isn't an issue on the larger tires, its clearance against the lower pivot yoke - the short chainstays (good thing) limit tire size (bad thing). I'll find out soon if I can stuff a 2.5 on i32's on the back of a Release 3, but I think it going to be tight, even with Maxxis sizing.
    I would advise not taking my advice.

  120. #120
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    Was considering a carbon frame so I wonder if there is any difference.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sparky697 View Post
    Was considering a carbon frame so I wonder if there is any difference.

    Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
    haven't tried on mine, but there's usually someone on chat help over at DB who can answer stuff like that. might be worth a try.

  122. #122
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    Quote Originally Posted by tonyride1 View Post
    Wow, did you bring it there just for a shake down run? Because the Release is overkill for Six-Mile run. I think even my Catch is overkill and I only take my Mason Pro which is a hard tail there. You probably had a tough time on the Orange trail with all the twisties. I do ride there from time to time so maybe I'll see you there.
    I ride there pretty often as well.

    I think Iíve seen you there because you donít see too many Masons around. I ride with the guy (brother in-law) who refuses to wear a helmet.




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  123. #123
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    Quote Originally Posted by mathers View Post
    I ride there pretty often as well.

    I think Iíve seen you there because you donít see too many Masons around. I ride with the guy (brother in-law) who refuses to wear a helmet.



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    Yes. I recall seeing someone there riding without a helmet.
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    Quick update: Punchy ride yesterday.

    After some fork retuning (I dropped a volume spacer and went up to 74 psi, 5 clicks LSR and 2 LSC) I pushed harder and father than before. Went out on my local trail and had to get as many miles as I could before dark. The change in tuning was perfect. I may drop a lb or two from the pressure, but I'm up to 80% travel and it compliments the shock very well. I am still wide open on LSC for the shock, and have yet found a need to add a click.

    The bike holds so well. The whole setup stays composed and does exactly what you tell it to do. I did have quite a few more pedal strikes, but I attribute that to timing more than anything. I also cleaned one tight switchback that I don't know if I ever had before.

  125. #125
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    Quote Originally Posted by nochamois View Post
    Quick update: Punchy ride yesterday.

    After some fork retuning (I dropped a volume spacer and went up to 74 psi, 5 clicks LSR and 2 LSC) I pushed harder and father than before. Went out on my local trail and had to get as many miles as I could before dark. The change in tuning was perfect. I may drop a lb or two from the pressure, but I'm up to 80% travel and it compliments the shock very well. I am still wide open on LSC for the shock, and have yet found a need to add a click.

    The bike holds so well. The whole setup stays composed and does exactly what you tell it to do. I did have quite a few more pedal strikes, but I attribute that to timing more than anything. I also cleaned one tight switchback that I don't know if I ever had before.
    How much do you weigh with gear?

  126. #126
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    Geared for fall - between 170-178. Yesterday towards the higher end, had a pack with 2L water, gopro gimbal, shock pump, and mini pump. Just ordered the hydrapak soft flask so I can try and go packless.

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    Guys! Seth has his 5C vŪdeo up!

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  128. #128
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    Quote Originally Posted by tabbibus View Post
    Guys! Seth has his 5C vŪdeo up!

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    Yup. Just saw it. Cool.
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  129. #129
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    Quote Originally Posted by tabbibus View Post
    Guys! Seth has his 5C vŪdeo up!

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    ...and you can get his bike using DB custom studio... Wow.

  130. #130
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    Quote Originally Posted by Szy_szka View Post
    ...and you can get his bike using DB custom studio... Wow.
    I think it's funny how sponsorships work. Seth's original review of the Box drivetrain was not THIS favorable.

    It's a great build, but I think a regular 5C with an upgrade to the carbon parts later is a better value.

    ac

  131. #131
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    The Youtube personality gets his build as the amazing option but their team riders...? heh

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    If anyone has creaking issues..
    Mine did on the first ride so serviced the all the links last night.
    Some of the pivots were not greased enough (almost dry metal) and the rear triangle wasn't completely free moving.

    Wiped everything down, re-greased all the links and no more creaks!

  133. #133
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    Quote Originally Posted by lpxaudio View Post
    If anyone has creaking issues..
    Mine did on the first ride so serviced the all the links last night.
    Some of the pivots were not greased enough (almost dry metal) and the rear triangle wasn't completely free moving.

    Wiped everything down, re-greased all the links and no more creaks!
    Mine started creaking yesterday so I'll have to give that a go.

    I got pretty banged up at Six Mile Run - the front end of the bike slid out from under me without warning three times during aggressive riding. The rear of the bike is absolutely fantastic with great response, feeling, and traction but no matter how much I play with the front end it feels disconnected to me.

    I've experimented with fork pressure, settings, and tire pressures - it's not giving me confidence. The Minion DHF is very aggressive and I was expecting a step up from the Ardents I'm used to. I'm running the front wheel tubeless around 22 psi. I'm not sure if I should go with 2.5" with 3C MAXX GRIP or try something else. Any suggestions?

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    That's odd. I've never lost the front on my aluminum release 3 with the pike and Hans
    Damf tires. My bike feels precise and very predictable. Do you have the fork dialed in at all? Sag set? How does your travel o ring look? I run my front tire at 20psi tubeless.

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  135. #135
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    FYI, maximum insertion for a dropper on a size medium is 10"-10 1/8". Even though the seat tube is straight down to the link, the internal routing tube blocks a bit. I just fit a 175mm KS lev on mine.

  136. #136
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    Have a comment/question. From the reviews I have read and REREAD, the reviewers are saying, from what I understand, that the 4c/5c ride demands precision and is less forgiving and more suited to fit riders who can manage less travel in the rear. Is this true from those of you who own a4c/5c or is this statement not applicable to bikers like me who ride once a week and are not super fit, but can handle themselves on the trail?? The reviews are also confusing as they push the low price of the 5c as it is good bang for the buck, but kinda hint its for better riders. I am asking because giving this one a serious look, but in the 4c iteration as it appears to be just what I need. My current ride is a 150/150 dually with a 1x10. Been liking the release since it came out, but always wanted it in carbon.
    I said, ďDoc, when I do this, it hurts!Ē Doc responds, ď then donít do thatĒ.

  137. #137
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    Quote Originally Posted by coot271 View Post
    Have a comment/question. From the reviews I have read and REREAD, the reviewers are saying, from what I understand, that the 4c/5c ride demands precision and is less forgiving and more suited to fit riders who can manage less travel in the rear. Is this true from those of you who own a4c/5c or is this statement not applicable to bikers like me who ride once a week and are not super fit, but can handle themselves on the trail?? The reviews are also confusing as they push the low price of the 5c as it is good bang for the buck, but kinda hint its for better riders. I am asking because giving this one a serious look, but in the 4c iteration as it appears to be just what I need. My current ride is a 150/150 dually with a 1x10. Been liking the release since it came out, but always wanted it in carbon.
    I'm not what I'd refer to as a great rider, and I love the Release in both the Al and CF framed options. I don't agree that you have to be any more fit to love this bike; if anything I think it's pretty forgiving to being a touch less fit because it climbs so well. I think the 'fit' comment comes in because on downhills you probably want to stay reasonably active on the bike, but I think that goes for most riding.

    I think it handles downhill rocky trails and drops up to ~4' great, but I'm not riding it like I'm trying for a podium finish at the downhill world cup; if you need 180mm of travel front and back for the trails you ride, this might not be for you. I prefer it to most 150-160 front and rear travel bikes I've ridden.

  138. #138
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    Quote Originally Posted by coot271 View Post
    Have a comment/question. From the reviews I have read and REREAD, the reviewers are saying, from what I understand, that the 4c/5c ride demands precision and is less forgiving and more suited to fit riders who can manage less travel in the rear. Is this true from those of you who own a4c/5c or is this statement not applicable to bikers like me who ride once a week and are not super fit, but can handle themselves on the trail?? The reviews are also confusing as they push the low price of the 5c as it is good bang for the buck, but kinda hint its for better riders. I am asking because giving this one a serious look, but in the 4c iteration as it appears to be just what I need. My current ride is a 150/150 dually with a 1x10. Been liking the release since it came out, but always wanted it in carbon.
    You'll be fine. The rear travel is very tough to actually bottom. In many ways I'm curious if you'll notice a con from 150 150 to 150 130 on the level link.

  139. #139
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    Did a tubeless conversion last night on the RF Arc rim and t was my first time trying tubeless.. it was super easy

    Bike is now 31 lbs flat (Med 5C)

  140. #140
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    Quote Originally Posted by coot271 View Post
    Have a comment/question. From the reviews I have read and REREAD, the reviewers are saying, from what I understand, that the 4c/5c ride demands precision and is less forgiving and more suited to fit riders who can manage less travel in the rear. Is this true from those of you who own a4c/5c or is this statement not applicable to bikers like me who ride once a week and are not super fit, but can handle themselves on the trail?? The reviews are also confusing as they push the low price of the 5c as it is good bang for the buck, but kinda hint its for better riders. I am asking because giving this one a serious look, but in the 4c iteration as it appears to be just what I need. My current ride is a 150/150 dually with a 1x10. Been liking the release since it came out, but always wanted it in carbon.
    I've been on a Release 3 for 2 years. It's a ripper of a bike. I upgraded the wheels (twice, I'm hard on things). I tend to ride as fast or faster than my friends on their fancy Yeti's, Ibis, Transition etc. I've ridden it on tons of long epic days in Colorado, a park lap or two and as a daily driver (Colorado front range). I've had very few hard bottom outs, usually on huck to flat over 3'. I'm currently debating going to the 5c (or maybe YT Jeffsy), or just staying on my Release 3 for a 3rd season. It's been such a good bike, changing hardly makes sense sometimes. The bike suits my style very well. I like to jump every single rock, root, roller or whatever that I can find. Active riding is part of the fun for me.

  141. #141
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    Quote Originally Posted by lpxaudio View Post
    Did a tubeless conversion last night on the RF Arc rim and t was my first time trying tubeless.. it was super easy

    Bike is now 31 lbs flat (Med 5C)
    Surprised it's still over 30 lbs. My aluminum is around 29 lbs, but has carbon rims. It's a solid bike with that Fox 36 for sure.

  142. #142
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ichno View Post
    Surprised it's still over 30 lbs. My aluminum is around 29 lbs, but has carbon rims. It's a solid bike with that Fox 36 for sure.
    yeah thought it would bring it down to 30.
    The RF ARC30 rims dont feel that heavy, might be the 2.5 DHF's

  143. #143
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    Quote Originally Posted by lpxaudio View Post
    yeah thought it would bring it down to 30.
    The RF ARC30 rims dont feel that heavy, might be the 2.5 DHF's
    Oh, that's right, forgot about the 2.5's. Not a light tire. I run a 2.35 (front and rear), not sure if it's the same casing. I had once had the Arc 27's, not really heavy, not really light. But certainly a nice profile. I imagine the 30's are even better. I put the originals (Blanchards with red rear) between rims. Honestly didn't notice that much of a difference other than I have gotten used to quicker hub than the 2016 came with. I think the hubs on the 5c are supposed to be pretty damn good for engagement, and major improvement over what came on the 2016 Release 3.

  144. #144
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ichno View Post
    Oh, that's right, forgot about the 2.5's. Not a light tire. I run a 2.35 (front and rear), not sure if it's the same casing. I had once had the Arc 27's, not really heavy, not really light. But certainly a nice profile. I imagine the 30's are even better. I put the originals (Blanchards with red rear) between rims. Honestly didn't notice that much of a difference other than I have gotten used to quicker hub than the 2016 came with. I think the hubs on the 5c are supposed to be pretty damn good for engagement, and major improvement over what came on the 2016 Release 3.
    Im coming from a cheap heavy hardtail with coil fork so everything has been a huge upgrade so I dont have something decent to compare the engagement to.. with that said, it does ride like a high poe hub.

    If youre thinking about 5C vs Jeffsy, the geo on 5C is identical to the release 3.

  145. #145
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    Finally got some pieces and parts delivered and installed. Hereís my 5c.

    Changes from stock:
    Deity Knuckleduster grips
    Stikrd Arch Guard
    OneUp EDC steerer tool
    WolfTooth ReMote
    e*thirteen Tubeless Valves w/ Oranges sealant
    KS Lev Integra 175mm
    Ergon SME Pro
    DMR Vault Pedals
    Custom decals for fork, shock, and rims.
    DYEDBRO Frame Protector





    Anyone else want to post their changes? It so always great to see how people take the same thing and change/adapt it to what suits them best.

  146. #146
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    Good looking bike.

  147. #147
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    How do you like the cable routing so far? That was my ONLY complaint on the aluminium version. The carbon routing looks nearly identical to the way Santa Cruz runs it.

  148. #148
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ichno View Post
    How do you like the cable routing so far? That was my ONLY complaint on the aluminium version. The carbon routing looks nearly identical to the way Santa Cruz runs it.
    I havenít been in the alu version so I canít speak to a direct comparison. But I think itís ďwell thought outĒ like every reviewer has ever said. The dropped and shifter are internal, which is clean and easy. Itís a tube in tube so you donít have to do any crazy fishing techniques to run a new dropper cable, though it does impede insertion length. You canít insert past ~10Ē on a medium. Itís external for the brake line, which makes installing and swapping super easy. And where it crosses from the front triangle to the seat stay is fine. There is a nice little pocket there at the bottom of the triangle in front of the seat tube to stick a Research Strap.

    What issues or complaints did you have with the alu version, maybe I can speak more specifically to that.

  149. #149
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    Sounds really well done. I have issues snapping a zip tie on the downtube after a taking larger drops.

  150. #150
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ichno View Post
    Sounds really well done. I have issues snapping a zip tie on the downtube after a taking larger drops.
    Oh wow. That almost sounds like a short cable or not enough slack was left between the the main triangle and rear triangle during setup. I have only messed with the dropper cable length when I put in a new post. The stock brake and shifter cables have had zero issues.

  151. #151
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    Any news on other 2018 carbon bikes besides the Release?
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  152. #152
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    Quote Originally Posted by tonyride1 View Post
    Sweet. There's regular group of friends up north (Allamuchy/Mahlon Dickerson area) that I ride with on a regular basis but I'll check you guys out for local rides. Thanks for the invite.
    Cool to see all of the 6MR talk in this thread... I'm really interested in checking out the DB bikes. It'd be cool to see what you guys are riding.

  153. #153
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    Quote Originally Posted by CrankAddictRich View Post
    Cool to see all of the 6MR talk in this thread... I'm really interested in checking out the DB bikes. It'd be cool to see what you guys are riding.
    I usually just ride my Mason Pro there but if you want I can bring my Catch so you can check it out.
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  154. #154
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    Quote Originally Posted by tonyride1 View Post
    I usually just ride my Mason Pro there but if you want I can bring my Catch so you can check it out.
    That'd be cool. What are the differences between the Catch and the Release? The Release has a little bit longer travel, correct?

  155. #155
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    Quote Originally Posted by CrankAddictRich View Post
    That'd be cool. What are the differences between the Catch and the Release? The Release has a little bit longer travel, correct?
    Correct. Also the Catch is a plus bike. It comes with 2.8" wide tires but can accommodate up to 3.0". It also has a bit longer chain stay. The stock travel is 130/130 mm f/r where the Release is 150/130 mm. I got a conversion kit to increase my fork to 150 mm. So basically my Catch will be a plus version of the Release. Now let me throw something else at ya, I have a spare set of wheels so I put 2.5" tires on them. So with those I essentially turned my Catch to a Release with the exception of the longer chain stay. They both have the same awesome Level Link rear suspension. Oh, the Catch has boost spacing front and rear where the Release has boost spacing just in the rear.
    Last edited by tonyride1; 12-11-2017 at 07:49 AM.
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  156. #156
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    Quote Originally Posted by tonyride1 View Post
    Correct. Also the Catch is a plus bike. It comes with 2.8" wide tires but can accommodate up to 3.0". It also has a bit longer chain stay. The stock travel is 130/130 mm f/r where the Release is 150/130 mm. I got a conversion kit to increase my fork to 150 mm. So basically my Catch will be a plus version of the Release. Now let me through something else at ya, I have a spare set of wheels so I put 2.5" tires on them. So with those I essentially turned my Catch to a Release with the exception of the longer chain stay. They both have the same awesome Level Link rear suspension. Oh, the Catch has boost spacing front and rear where the Release has boost spacing just in the rear.
    Quick note: 5C is boost front and rear.

  157. #157
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    Quote Originally Posted by nochamois View Post
    Quick note: 5C is boost front and rear.
    Awesome.
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  158. #158
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    Quote Originally Posted by tonyride1 View Post
    Correct. Also the Catch is a plus bike. It comes with 2.8" wide tires but can accommodate up to 3.0". It also has a bit longer chain stay. The stock travel is 130/130 mm f/r where the Release is 150/130 mm. I got a conversion kit to increase my fork to 150 mm. So basically my Catch will be a plus version of the Release. Now let me throw something else at ya, I have a spare set of wheels so I put 2.5" tires on them. So with those I essentially turned my Catch to a Release with the exception of the longer chain stay. They both have the same awesome Level Link rear suspension. Oh, the Catch has boost spacing front and rear where the Release has boost spacing just in the rear.
    Doesn't the current Catch come with 3.0s? I know they widened the rim to a true "plus" rim width.

    I'm curious where you bottom bracket height winds up.

  159. #159
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    Will 2.6Ē tires fit on the carbon release?

  160. #160
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    Quote Originally Posted by avc8130 View Post
    Doesn't the current Catch come with 3.0s? I know they widened the rim to a true "plus" rim width.

    I'm curious where you bottom bracket height winds up.
    It comes with 2.8 and will fit greater than a 3.0.

  161. #161
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    Quote Originally Posted by PurpleMtnSlayer View Post
    Will 2.6Ē tires fit on the carbon release?
    Yes someone has none it. Can't remember NN or RRs.

  162. #162
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    Awesome! Thanks.

  163. #163
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    Any Carbon Release (5c, 4c) owners yet?

    Does anyone know what the corporate discount is on these bikes? I saw someone post somewhere thereís a 10% off webcode, and itís more than the corporate discount? Iím trying to get a friend to hook it up, but I wonít bother if the savings isnít there. Thanks.
    Last edited by PurpleMtnSlayer; 01-02-2018 at 05:39 PM.

  164. #164
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    Quote Originally Posted by PurpleMtnSlayer View Post
    Does anyone know what the corporate discount is on these bikes? I saw someone post somewhere thereís a 10% off webcode, and itís more than the corporate discount? Iím trying to get a friend to hook it up, but I wonít both if the saves isnít there. Thanks.
    The 10% (TAKE10) off code doesn't work anymore but the 5% (SAVE5) works and it works in conjunction with your corporate discounts. So for the 5c your out the door price is $3970.99 and $2640.99 for the 4c.
    2016 Salsa Bucksaw Carbon
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  165. #165
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    Thanks Tony!

  166. #166
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    Quote Originally Posted by PurpleMtnSlayer View Post
    Thanks Tony!
    You got it. Let us know how it turns out.
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  167. #167
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    Wayyy delayed update on my release 5c

    Pedal strikes!!
    Been getting lots of pedal strikes on trails that I haven't had issues with before. I'm on a size medium and wishing it came with a 170 crank arm.
    But.. it could also be that I'm just used to the high bottom bracket of my previous bike.

    Weak paint and wide rear tires?
    The paint is scuffed up pretty good on the rear triangle from dirt/rocks picked up by the rear tire. I've seen a few people running 2.5/2.6 on the rear but personally, I wouldn't go past the stock 2.4
    I also have exposed carbon from the rear brake cable rubbing on the seat tube (had to put felt tape on cable and clear nail polish on frame to prevent any more damage)

    Changes & Fixes
    - Cut the dropper post cable, too much extra cable length in the front.
    - Tubeless conversion: it was my first time trying out tubeless and was easy as changing the tubes. Rims came pre-taped and came with a nice set of tubeless valves. Sealed up with standard floor pump easily.
    - Had major creaking issue in the beginning, it was coming from the rear shock mount bolts. These bolts are male/female type and if tightened too much will "freeze" or "hold" the shock in place making it creak every time the shock compresses. Re-greased and tighten the bolts down enough where the shock is free moving but bolts aren't loose. I think Diamondback either made the bolts a hair too short or the carbon is slightly too thick where it locks everything into place if tightened down too much.

    Overall thoughts
    Really enjoying my bike and would say that it cant be beat for the price.
    I'm sure all trail bikes at this price range can climb/descend well and I haven't ridden enough bikes to say that this bike is a top climber/descender but it climbs just as well, if not better, than my previous xc hardtail and most definitely confidence inspiring for me to come down with bigger smile on my face.

    I'll have further updates in the future

  168. #168
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    Do you have your rear sag set properly? I know I get a lot of pedal strikes if my sag is even slightly too much.

    Do you have any volume reducers in the rear shock?

    Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

  169. #169
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    I dont have any volume reducers but I've got my sag set at around 25%

  170. #170
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    Diamondback Release 5c Vs. Yeti SB5 LR

    Check out this comparison and they used the 4c and 5c.https://www.bikemag.com/gear-feature...s-yeti-sb5-lr/
    2016 Salsa Bucksaw Carbon
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  171. #171
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    This graph is pulled from: http://linkagedesign.blogspot.com/20...-2016.html?m=1

    I could be way off here. But my understanding is that a level link bike will actually ride higher in itís travel with more sag *to a point*.

    This graph shows the first 44% of travel has a regressive leverage ratio. The last 56% of travel is very progressive. So at 25% sag it will be really easy to squish through the first part of the travel. If you set your sag closer to say 35%, the first part of the travel will be much harder to push through, relative to 25% sag.

  172. #172
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    I'm not too sure about increasing the sag to prevent pedal strikes.
    Also don't have any volume spacers to play with so I cant increase the sag anymore if I want to prevent bottoming out

  173. #173
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    I might be wrong about that but I know for a fact the regressive initial stroke will feel like midstroke wallow on the trail. And that more sag will fix it.

  174. #174
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    Quote Originally Posted by lpxaudio View Post
    I'm not too sure about increasing the sag to prevent pedal strikes.
    Also don't have any volume spacers to play with so I cant increase the sag anymore if I want to prevent bottoming out
    You'll have to play with sag. I'm struggling with the mental capacity to rationalize that more sag could possibly result in less pedal strikes.

    Get some volume reducers. They are cheap and make a big difference when you tune with them.

    ac

  175. #175
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    Quote Originally Posted by PurpleMtnSlayer View Post
    I could be way off here.
    Yep.
    I would advise not taking my advice.

  176. #176
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    Quote Originally Posted by watermonkey View Post
    Yep.
    I donít know man, that LR curve is pretty damn linear for half the travel.

  177. #177
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    BB height is directly (although not necessarily linearly) related to sag....increase sag%, decrease BB height, pedal bash rocks. It has absolutely nothing to do with spring rates.

    The graph of the regressive initial spring rate does represent why this bike pedals so much better with a significantly lower initial sag: re: 25% or less. The problem people are having with this setup is that they're running too much sag, blowing through travel, and trying to compensate with volume reducers. It only has 130mm of travel out back, its not supposed to be downhill bike mushy/plushy - this bike is meant to be pedaled, through crap, uphill.

    If you set this bike up with 30% sag (static), but go ride around a smooth parking lot while filming the sag gauge, this bike settles into a dynamic sag in the 40% territory almost immediately. This slackens out your seat tube angle significantly, making it pedal like $h!t with a wandering front end, you blow through your travel, and get that wallowy feel mid stroke when railing turns. Up your pressure and film your sag gauge while riding till you're around 30-25% dynamic sag, loose the volume reducers, add a few click of rebound, and go climb the bejesus out of anything. I'm a big dude, carrying a heavy, prepper worthy camelback, riding fast and hard, and might blow through travel every other ride. I get really close every ride, but not all the way through unless I'm hitting bigger stuff.

    If you up the pressure and keep a huge stack of volume reducers in, you're going to get a brutal ride. My $.02, but air is free, try some more...you might like it.
    I would advise not taking my advice.

  178. #178
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    Quote Originally Posted by watermonkey View Post
    BB height is directly (although not necessarily linearly) related to sag....increase sag%, decrease BB height, pedal bash rocks. It has absolutely nothing to do with spring rates.

    The graph of the regressive initial spring rate does represent why this bike pedals so much better with a significantly lower initial sag: re: 25% or less. The problem people are having with this setup is that they're running too much sag, blowing through travel, and trying to compensate with volume reducers. It only has 130mm of travel out back, its not supposed to be downhill bike mushy/plushy - this bike is meant to be pedaled, through crap, uphill.

    If you set this bike up with 30% sag (static), but go ride around a smooth parking lot while filming the sag gauge, this bike settles into a dynamic sag in the 40% territory almost immediately. This slackens out your seat tube angle significantly, making it pedal like $h!t with a wandering front end, you blow through your travel, and get that wallowy feel mid stroke when railing turns. Up your pressure and film your sag gauge while riding till you're around 30-25% dynamic sag, loose the volume reducers, add a few click of rebound, and go climb the bejesus out of anything. I'm a big dude, carrying a heavy, prepper worthy camelback, riding fast and hard, and might blow through travel every other ride. I get really close every ride, but not all the way through unless I'm hitting bigger stuff.

    If you up the pressure and keep a huge stack of volume reducers in, you're going to get a brutal ride. My $.02, but air is free, try some more...you might like it.
    What sag have you settled in on (static)? Any volume reducers?

  179. #179
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    Quote Originally Posted by watermonkey View Post
    If you set this bike up with 30% sag (static), but go ride around a smooth parking lot while filming the sag gauge, this bike settles into a dynamic sag in the 40% territory almost immediately. This slackens out your seat tube angle significantly, making it pedal like $h!t with a wandering front end, you blow through your travel, and get that wallowy feel mid stroke when railing turns. Up your pressure and film your sag gauge while riding till you're around 30-25% dynamic sag, loose the volume reducers, add a few click of rebound, and go climb the bejesus out of anything. I'm a big dude, carrying a heavy, prepper worthy camelback, riding fast and hard, and might blow through travel every other ride. I get really close every ride, but not all the way through unless I'm hitting bigger stuff.

    Made some adjustments to my psi (added about 20psi more) dynamic sag set to about 25%. Just one ride on my local trail so far and no more pedal strikes! not only that shock feels more supportive.

    I gotta play around with my fork/shock more often, I was settling with sub par performance this whole time..

  180. #180
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    Can you mount a bottle cage on the downtube on the outside of the triangle?

  181. #181
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    Quote Originally Posted by avc8130 View Post
    What sag have you settled in on (static)? Any volume reducers?
    I don't know - I set it up by filming the gauge and setting around 27.5% dynamic sag, then recorded the psi. put a label on the bike, and just check that. I can never get the same sag reading while doing it the standard way, even with help...its all over the place. Before I set up this way, I was under sprung and running 2 bands, since then I've pulled them both, as I wasn't getting full travel and it was harsh at the higher pressure. Now its peachy.

    Quote Originally Posted by lpxaudio View Post
    Made some adjustments to my psi (added about 20psi more) dynamic sag set to about 25%. Just one ride on my local trail so far and no more pedal strikes! not only that shock feels more supportive.

    I gotta play around with my fork/shock more often, I was settling with sub par performance this whole time..
    Last fall my wife, son and I rode a trail outside of New Castle, CO. Steep, swtichbacky climbing pig of ride. My wife was almost in tears, couldn't make any turns, front end was lifting, just plain suffering. Well, I screwed up when servicing her bike. I pumped her shock back up to the prescribed psi we settled on for her to have a dynamic sag around 27.5%...but I forgot to cycle the shock to migrate air to the negative spring. Therefore, as soon as she jumped on it at the trailhead, her psi dropped by about 25 lbs, and her static sag was reading about 32%. Later, as soon as I realized what was going on, we pumped her shock up correctly, I got chewed out for being a crappy mechanic, we finished the climb, and had fun doing it. We went from the point of almost calling the ride and writing it off as an "off day", to climbing another 1000 ft vert and having a great day. It makes that much of a difference on the level link platform.

    The crappiest rides I've had this year (personal performance wise) were almost exclusively attributable to me not checking fork, shock and tire psi before heading out. And every time one of these settings was off, my ride sucked.

    Bonus tip - I have somewhere around 7 shock pumps bouncing around my shop, toolkits and riding packs...and every one of them reads differently than the others. So, if you set up a "master " list of fork and shock pressures, try to use the same shock pump every time, so that your baseline is a true baseline. Between our 3 full suspension bikes, 3 fatbikes, and 2 gravel bikes, there's no way I can remember what psi's to set everything up at, so its written on a dry erase board in the garage, and also in my phone...as I always have my phone on me. I've also taken it one step further by printing out the values for fork, shock and front and rear tires on dymo labels and putting them on the bikes...this way my wife or son can service their own rides when they're off on their own rides. It seems a little (ok, a lot) OCD, but it really matters that much.
    I would advise not taking my advice.

  182. #182
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    Quote Originally Posted by watermonkey View Post
    I don't know - I set it up by filming the gauge and setting around 27.5% dynamic sag, then recorded the psi. put a label on the bike, and just check that. I can never get the same sag reading while doing it the standard way, even with help...its all over the place. Before I set up this way, I was under sprung and running 2 bands, since then I've pulled them both, as I wasn't getting full travel and it was harsh at the higher pressure. Now its peachy.



    Last fall my wife, son and I rode a trail outside of New Castle, CO. Steep, swtichbacky climbing pig of ride. My wife was almost in tears, couldn't make any turns, front end was lifting, just plain suffering. Well, I screwed up when servicing her bike. I pumped her shock back up to the prescribed psi we settled on for her to have a dynamic sag around 27.5%...but I forgot to cycle the shock to migrate air to the negative spring. Therefore, as soon as she jumped on it at the trailhead, her psi dropped by about 25 lbs, and her static sag was reading about 32%. Later, as soon as I realized what was going on, we pumped her shock up correctly, I got chewed out for being a crappy mechanic, we finished the climb, and had fun doing it. We went from the point of almost calling the ride and writing it off as an "off day", to climbing another 1000 ft vert and having a great day. It makes that much of a difference on the level link platform.

    The crappiest rides I've had this year (personal performance wise) were almost exclusively attributable to me not checking fork, shock and tire psi before heading out. And every time one of these settings was off, my ride sucked.

    Bonus tip - I have somewhere around 7 shock pumps bouncing around my shop, toolkits and riding packs...and every one of them reads differently than the others. So, if you set up a "master " list of fork and shock pressures, try to use the same shock pump every time, so that your baseline is a true baseline. Between our 3 full suspension bikes, 3 fatbikes, and 2 gravel bikes, there's no way I can remember what psi's to set everything up at, so its written on a dry erase board in the garage, and also in my phone...as I always have my phone on me. I've also taken it one step further by printing out the values for fork, shock and front and rear tires on dymo labels and putting them on the bikes...this way my wife or son can service their own rides when they're off on their own rides. It seems a little (ok, a lot) OCD, but it really matters that much.
    Thanks again for the great info, I would have never known "mere" 20 psi would make such huge difference for the whole bike.

  183. #183
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    For those of you guys that have the carbon releases, when you tighten down the bolts that hold the rear shock, is your shock free moving? (pivots freely?)

    When I tighten mine down to 8nm (manual spec), it completely seizes the shock in place, making the frame creak really bad during shock compression.

    So far Ive just loosened the bolts to prevent the seizing issue but am wondering if I just got a bad batch of bolts.

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  184. #184
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    Quote Originally Posted by lpxaudio View Post
    For those of you guys that have the carbon releases, when you tighten down the bolts that hold the rear shock, is your shock free moving? (pivots freely?)

    When I tighten mine down to 8nm (manual spec), it completely seizes the shock in place, making the frame creak really bad during shock compression.

    So far Ive just loosened the bolts to prevent the seizing issue but am wondering if I just got a bad batch of bolts.

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    Mine moves freely. If you havenít yet, remove them completely, wipe them clean, clean all the surfaces between the frame/shock/bolt etc., and regrease the bolt. You could have debris buildup inside so itís binding.

  185. #185
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    I've removed the shock, cleaned and properly reassembled the bike but still the same issue. I've talk to Diamondback rep about it and they just told me take it to a shop.

    When you insert the long shock bolt into the frame does it stick out?
    My bolt looks like it should stick out a bit more (like 2mm) to make contact with the opposite side bolt.

  186. #186
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    The good news is that red/orange frame is gorgeous.
    The bad news is thatís not right, and youíll prob have to go to a dealer for Diamondback to fix it.

    Whatís interesting is itís happening on both the frame mount and the swing link mount. Which seems like the problem is with your mounting hardware, which you already said. This would be weird but maybe your spacers are too long for your axle pin (see below)?

  187. #187
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    Quote Originally Posted by PurpleMtnSlayer View Post
    The good news is that red/orange frame is gorgeous.
    The bad news is thatís not right, and youíll prob have to go to a dealer for Diamondback to fix it.

    Whatís interesting is itís happening on both the frame mount and the swing link mount. Which seems like the problem is with your mounting hardware, which you already said. This would be weird but maybe your spacers are too long for your axle pin (see below)?
    I thought it might be the shock eyelet bushing issue as well, inspected and all seems well and lines up flush with the frame.

  188. #188
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    Does anyone have weights on 4c vs 5c?

  189. #189
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    Quote Originally Posted by PurpleMtnSlayer View Post
    Does anyone have weights on 4c vs 5c?
    I think its been talked about in the other release thread...or maybe the 2018 one..
    Anyway I believe the 4c is around a half pound lighter....don't remember the exact weights tho.

  190. #190
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    So I'm considering the 4C mainly for price difference over the 5C. Also, Experticity is selling them 20% off retail. That's a heck of a good deal! Those who have the 4C or the 5c, what are your thoughts?

  191. #191
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnboy68 View Post
    So I'm considering the 4C mainly for price difference over the 5C. Also, Experticity is selling them 20% off retail. That's a heck of a good deal! Those who have the 4C or the 5c, what are your thoughts?
    20% off is the same as the corporate discount so no difference there. Regardless, I think $2400 for that bike is a great value.
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  192. #192
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    Quote Originally Posted by tonyride1 View Post
    20% off is the same as the corporate discount so no difference there. Regardless, I think $2400 for that bike is a great value.
    That's good to know. I don't think you can find any other bike with the same specs cheaper than $2400. Now I just need to sell my bike and convince the wife that buying another bike bike with what I make on mine PLUS the difference is a good thing.

    I'm looking to make this bike a long term investment. Wish there was somewhere I could demo before making up my mind. I may hold off a few months and see if it goes to %25 off.

  193. #193
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    You can use the corporate discount and the Save5 code together to get 25% off. Also if youíre an active junkie member you can get an additional 3% off coupon.

  194. #194
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    Quote Originally Posted by PurpleMtnSlayer View Post
    You can use the corporate discount and the Save5 code together to get 25% off. Also if youíre an active junkie member you can get an additional 3% off coupon.
    So, how do you use a corporate discount? Also, what's "active junkie"?

    Thanks!

  195. #195
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    Google has the answers you seek young Johnny boy

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    Quote Originally Posted by PurpleMtnSlayer View Post
    Google has the answers you seek young Johnny boy
    Wish it did. Active Junkie just takes you to DB website then I guess 90 days after I buy the bike I should get 3% back posted to my paypal account. Getting the corporate discount is a mystery.

  197. #197
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnboy68 View Post
    Wish it did. Active Junkie just takes you to DB website then I guess 90 days after I buy the bike I should get 3% back posted to my paypal account. Getting the corporate discount is a mystery.
    Depending on where you work and what you do you may be able to get a corporate account. That's how I got mine.
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  198. #198
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    Quote Originally Posted by PurpleMtnSlayer View Post
    You can use the corporate discount and the Save5 code together to get 25% off. Also if youíre an active junkie member you can get an additional 3% off coupon.
    Alright... I can get the corporate discount now. I tried to go through the checkout procedure to see if it would give the option to put in a discount code and I didn't see one before I got to actually putting in a credit card number. Do you know what I'm missing?

  199. #199
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnboy68 View Post
    Alright... I can get the corporate discount now. I tried to go through the checkout procedure to see if it would give the option to put in a discount code and I didn't see one before I got to actually putting in a credit card number. Do you know what I'm missing?
    Wow, did they get rid of it?
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  200. #200
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    Quote Originally Posted by tonyride1 View Post
    Discount code is SAVE5 for 5% off.
    Is there somewhere to put that in during the order? I didn't see it up to the point of me actually putting in my credit card information.

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