Any Carbon Release (5c, 4c) owners yet? - Page 2- Mtbr.com
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  1. #201
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnboy68 View Post
    Is there somewhere to put that in during the order? I didn't see it up to the point of me actually putting in my credit card information.
    I think they got rid of it. No more additional discounts I guess. But there's still the 3% from Active Junkie I guess.
    2016 Salsa Bucksaw Carbon
    2016 Pivot Mach 6 Carbon

  2. #202
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    Thatís a bummer! But, itís still the best deal around!

  3. #203
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    I just got this email last night. If you canít find a place to input the code I might try reaching out to them before checking out.

  4. #204
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    Quote Originally Posted by tonyride1 View Post
    I think they got rid of it. No more additional discounts I guess. But there's still the 3% from Active Junkie I guess.
    I still have it but in order to get the window to type the code you must click on "Have a promotional code?" hyperlink.

  5. #205
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    Seems like these bikes have low stack heights with very little bottom bracket drop. My size Large frames have taller stack than these in size XL.

    Do you guys feel at all like your grips are down by your knees? I like tall stack heights with taller rise bars if need be.

    Thoughts?

  6. #206
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    Never had that sensation on my large.

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  7. #207
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    Just got mine. Upgrading from an Atroz Comp. Weighed in at 30.9 lbs without pedals, large frame. I plan on going tubeless and changing the steel crank chainring to aluminum. Should hit 30 lbs. The only defect was a paint chip just below the seat post clamp.
    Any Carbon Release (5c, 4c) owners yet?-0dsc_8383.jpgAny Carbon Release (5c, 4c) owners yet?-0dsc_8385.jpg

  8. #208
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    Quote Originally Posted by TonyRosa View Post
    Just got mine. Upgrading from an Atroz Comp. Weighed in at 30.9 lbs without pedals, large frame. I plan on going tubeless and changing the steel crank chainring to aluminum. Should hit 30 lbs. The only defect was a paint chip just below the seat post clamp.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Tony, what is your height and inseam? I am between med and large, so trying to figure which will fit better. I am 5í10.5Ē w/31Ē inseam. Thanks....4c looking good brother!
    I said, ďDoc, when I do this, it hurts!Ē Doc responds, ď then donít do thatĒ.

  9. #209
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    Quote Originally Posted by coot271 View Post
    Tony, what is your height and inseam? I am between med and large, so trying to figure which will fit better. I am 5í10.5Ē w/31Ē inseam. Thanks....4c looking good brother!
    I'm 5'10.25, between 31 and 32 inch inseam. To me the Large fits well. No problem with standover height. The top tube feels a bit long but I prefer a roomy cockpit. I was also on the fence with medium. My riding buddy is also 5'10 and has a LG Release one and likes the fit also. I'd rather be in a little stretched XC position than upright. We don't have many steep downhills.

  10. #210
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    Your release 4C is absolutely gorgeous. Thanks for sharing it with us.

    I'd be jealous but for the fact that my Release 1 l, actually, a very discounted Clutch 1) puts a smile whenever I ride it.

  11. #211
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    I have not taken the 4C to the trails yet but have so far adjusted the suspension, will probably need a little more tweaking.

    I also had to bleed the rear brake since the lever was going all the way back to the handlebar, much more solid feel now. I also centered the calipers. Those Deore brakes are really not too good. I mean, a cotter pin for the pads? And no bleed nipple on the caliper. The Tektro brakes on my Atroz are nicer.

    Today I am going to do the tubeless conversion. I'll report back with the weight.
    Other than that, the bike feels much stiffer than the Atroz, no more wondering rear.

  12. #212
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    Quote Originally Posted by TonyRosa View Post
    I have not taken the 4C to the trails yet but have so far adjusted the suspension, will probably need a little more tweaking.

    I also had to bleed the rear brake since the lever was going all the way back to the handlebar, much more solid feel now. I also centered the calipers. Those Deore brakes are really not too good. I mean, a cotter pin for the pads? And no bleed nipple on the caliper. The Tektro brakes on my Atroz are nicer.

    Today I am going to do the tubeless conversion. I'll report back with the weight.
    Other than that, the bike feels much stiffer than the Atroz, no more wondering rear.
    I have slx on my current bike....they have been the best brakes ever.....the cotter pin, donít worry about it. As long as theyíre bled and keep pads replaced, should be a happy camper. Give them a bit more time to get bedded. If I grab mine too hard, its OTB I go,
    I said, ďDoc, when I do this, it hurts!Ē Doc responds, ď then donít do thatĒ.

  13. #213
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    Deore brakes? XT or one of the sub SLX models?

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  14. #214
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    Quote Originally Posted by avc8130 View Post
    Deore brakes? XT or one of the sub SLX models?

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    Just Deore, they are the M6000. I found the rear set costs $29.99 on amazon. After adjusting them they are not that bad but I will probably upgrade in the future.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Any Carbon Release (5c, 4c) owners yet?-51da-vacvbl__sl1200_.jpg  


  15. #215
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    I have similar on my El Oso. Crap.

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  16. #216
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    So, the bike only comes with one frame rubber grommet for the internal routing. I contacted Diamondback and they don't have them as a separate part. Anyone find ones that will fit? It really makes the frame much cleaner and it's a shame to only have it on one side.

  17. #217
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    I'm really struggling to decide between the 4c or the 3. Mostly I'm concerned about the durability of the Carbon frames. Has anybody had any issues yet with cracks or damage? Or has anybody had any crashes yet or anything that you've been surprised its held up already? I'm curious what DBs record will be on the strength of their carbon frames.

    Also - Does the 4c have the southpaw lever for the dropper post? I've not been able to find a good picture of it to confirm.

  18. #218
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    The 4C does come with a southpaw lever. I was debating between the 3 and 4C also. Now I joke with my wife that I have a plastic bike. It sure is a beautiful and very stiff frame but still not sure if I made the right decision. The components on the 3 are just outrageous for the price.

    Besides the Fox suspension the rest of the components on the 4C are middle of the road. In the end I went for the carbon frame and latest suspension since I wont use the 3 to its full capacity. I have yet to really ride it on the trails.

  19. #219
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    Personally I'd rather have the suspension spec on the 3 over the plastic frame of the 4c. The aluminum frame is super rigid and proven reliable. The carbon frame is barely lighter. If you said 5c this would be a different answer...

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  20. #220
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    Quote Originally Posted by avc8130 View Post
    Personally I'd rather have the suspension spec on the 3 over the plastic frame of the 4c. The aluminum frame is super rigid and proven reliable. The carbon frame is barely lighter. If you said 5c this would be a different answer...

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    The 4C and 5C frames are the same, just different colors

  21. #221
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    Quote Originally Posted by TonyRosa View Post
    The 4C and 5C frames are the same, just different colors
    Yes, but the specs! I'd rather the components of the 5c to the components of the 3.

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  22. #222
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    Quote Originally Posted by avc8130 View Post
    Yes, but the specs! I'd rather the components of the 5c to the components of the 3.

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    That's funny you say that because I'm kind of turned off by the eagle drivetrain. It seems super sensitive from a maintenance and wrenching view point and there are no alternatives to parts. You are locked in to the eagle ecosystem. I honestly kind of prefer the Shimano setup on the 4c but I have hesitation over the carbon frame.

    It's funny actually, I like the 4c for the looks and the Shimano components. I actually worry about the durability and environmental impact of carbon. I'm not a big fan of the blue on black colors of the 3 and the 5c, besides having eagle, is more than I want to spend. I've been bouncing around for over a week between the 3, 4c, and canyons spectral... Just can't get myself to decide!

    Thanks guys for the feedback though... It's nice to share this passion with others. Been driving my wife crazy with indecision, hence the first posts here!

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  23. #223
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    Take the Eagle off and install a GX 11spd setup. Still the eagle as be take off. Bet that would put a dent on that price difference!

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  24. #224
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    I think if I lived in a place with a lot of rocky trails I would have gone with the 3. Here it's dirt and roots so hopefully the carbon frame will hold up.

  25. #225
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    I've been debating between a 4C and a 3 for a few months now. The 5c was the bike I wanted but I couldn't quit afford the price even with the discounts.
    My tax return finally came and I was going to go with the 3 cause of the specs.
    Well I was on the mtb section on reddit and this guy posted he had a 30% discount code for Diamondback. It was a one time use code.
    Anyways I was able to get a 5c for $3050.
    I was in a hurry and forgot to use active junkie. That would have pushed the price under $3000.
    It's a little bit more than my budget but for the savings I can make it work.
    The 5c build is really perfect for what I want. Down to the bash guard and tires.
    Suppose to be here Thursday but it's probably going to be a few more weeks until its dry enough to ride. lol

  26. #226
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    Quote Originally Posted by Todd Hughes View Post
    I've been debating between a 4C and a 3 for a few months now. The 5c was the bike I wanted but I couldn't quit afford the price even with the discounts.
    My tax return finally came and I was going to go with the 3 cause of the specs.
    Well I was on the mtb section on reddit and this guy posted he had a 30% discount code for Diamondback. It was a one time use code.
    Anyways I was able to get a 5c for $3050.
    I was in a hurry and forgot to use active junkie. That would have pushed the price under $3000.
    It's a little bit more than my budget but for the savings I can make it work.
    The 5c build is really perfect for what I want. Down to the bash guard and tires.
    Suppose to be here Thursday but it's probably going to be a few more weeks until its dry enough to ride. lol
    Nice! I saw that thread on reddit! You barely beat me... Haha! Congrats man!

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  27. #227
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    What deal, congrats! wish I would have had that discount code before I ordered my 4C. I still got a decent deal but the 5C for $3k is a steal.

  28. #228
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    Comparison

    Quote Originally Posted by johnboy68 View Post
    So I'm considering the 4C mainly for price difference over the 5C. Also, Experticity is selling them 20% off retail. That's a heck of a good deal! Those who have the 4C or the 5c, what are your thoughts?
    Did you look at the BH or La pierre bikes on experticity pro deal for comparison? If so what made you make your decision?

  29. #229
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    Anybody with a 4 or 5C have any of the issues people on the aluminum versions are having?
    Specifically the linkage problem where the axle does not line up with the bearings and it needs love taps with a mallet to get in, or even stripping of threads upon removal?


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  30. #230
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sigtinius View Post
    Anybody with a 4 or 5C have any of the issues people on the aluminum versions are having?
    Specifically the linkage problem where the axle does not line up with the bearings and it needs love taps with a mallet to get in, or even stripping of threads upon removal?


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    I had no issues when I did a full pivot service. Itís easier with the rear wheel off and shock. I kept the shock on so I could just remove one or two at a time and reinsert.

  31. #231
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    Quote Originally Posted by nochamois View Post
    I had no issues when I did a full pivot service. Itís easier with the rear wheel off and shock. I kept the shock on so I could just remove one or two at a time and reinsert.
    Do you have a 4 or 5C?
    Anyone else have any issues when taking apart the linkage?


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  32. #232
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sigtinius View Post
    Do you have a 4 or 5C?
    Anyone else have any issues when taking apart the linkage?


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    I have the 5C

  33. #233
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    Can anyone else post pictures of their carbon releases?


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  34. #234
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sigtinius View Post
    Can anyone else post pictures of their carbon releases?


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    I made a couple of videos on youtube that show the 4C pretty well. I must say, the frame is beautiful. So far the bike has been excellent. Just look for my name on the videos (Antonio Rosa)

  35. #235
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    Anyone here from SF Bay Area that owns a 5c?

  36. #236
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    Test rode a large 5c and xl 4c will be ordering an xl 5c in coming weeks.


    Fyi I have it on good authority also that DB will be raising the prices of the carbon bikes this year. Just an FYI to anyone who's considering getting one.

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  37. #237
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    Hi does anyone have any information on what to expect for the 2018 release 1 Color specs etc..

  38. #238
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    For those with a 5C, did your bike come with crank boots (the plastic/ rubber pieces that cover and protect the ends of your cranks from strikes)? The stock picture shows them on the cranks, but it doesn't say anywhere in the description if they are included or not.

  39. #239
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    Quote Originally Posted by AKTXone View Post
    Hi does anyone have any information on what to expect for the 2018 release 1 Color specs etc..

    From what I've read the one listed on rei's website is the 2018 version.

  40. #240
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sigtinius View Post
    For those with a 5C, did your bike come with crank boots (the plastic/ rubber pieces that cover and protect the ends of your cranks from strikes)? The stock picture shows them on the cranks, but it doesn't say anywhere in the description if they are included or not.
    It should from all the unboxing videos I've seen it comes with them. If yours did not, I would suggest contacting DB.

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  41. #241
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sigtinius View Post
    For those with a 5C, did your bike come with crank boots (the plastic/ rubber pieces that cover and protect the ends of your cranks from strikes)? The stock picture shows them on the cranks, but it doesn't say anywhere in the description if they are included or not.
    They are. I think they were in the box/bag with the pedals and cable grommet.

  42. #242
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    Well after watching this thread for months and countless hours of researching bikes I finally pulled the trigger on the 4c last week. It showed up in 2 days! Assembly was a snap, shifting has been flawless! The gearing is spot on, exactly what I wanted. The rear suspension is perfect, I've already made a couple tough climbs that I struggled on with my 13 Stumpjumper with 29" wheels. I'm around 5'8", I think the 27.5 wheels may just suit us better. The fork was harsh at first, after some adjusting, clicking and break in its getting better. I think the Carbon frame adds to that stiffer ride feeling. So far I've gotten 20 miles on it, my son put 10 on it and he loves it. He is riding a 2016 Specialized Camber 29 and he rode the 4c better. No creaking or weird sounds.. I think we may both be on Diamondbacks soon. Pretty happy so far!

    https://flic.kr/p/25mQ4pt

    https://flic.kr/p/JAK8Mf

    https://flic.kr/p/H5pSUe

    https://flic.kr/p/25mQnKM

    https://flic.kr/p/23YzuDw

    https://flic.kr/p/25p7dLR

    https://flic.kr/p/26LwQp8

  43. #243
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    Quote Originally Posted by tcourdin View Post
    Well after watching this thread for months and countless hours of researching bikes I finally pulled the trigger on the 4c last week. It showed up in 2 days! Assembly was a snap, shifting has been flawless! The gearing is spot on, exactly what I wanted. The rear suspension is perfect, I've already made a couple tough climbs that I struggled on with my 13 Stumpjumper with 29" wheels. I'm around 5'8", I think the 27.5 wheels may just suit us better. The fork was harsh at first, after some adjusting, clicking and break in its getting better. I think the Carbon frame adds to that stiffer ride feeling. So far I've gotten 20 miles on it, my son put 10 on it and he loves it. He is riding a 2016 Specialized Camber 29 and he rode the 4c better. No creaking or weird sounds.. I think we may both be on Diamondbacks soon. Pretty happy so far!
    Congratulations on the new whip. Medium? Awesome pics, always great to see new bike stoke, thanks.
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  44. #244
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    Yep, medium. How are you liking the 5c?

  45. #245
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    Quote Originally Posted by tcourdin View Post
    Yep, medium. How are you liking the 5c?

    Not here yet, still on it's way. Being shipped from California WH to my shop here in Washington. Sadly even when it arrives I won't even get it on dirt till mid June, between work and upgrades still going to be a while yet.
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  46. #246
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    Ordered a 5c late last night using corporate discount while it was still on sale. Patiently awaiting its arrival.

  47. #247
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    I received my 5c last night. Just wanted to post my experience setting it up. Last mail order bike I got was a Kilo TT from bikes direct.

    1. It practically comes with everything I needed except for friction paste to put on the dropper.
    2. Easiest tubeless setup I've done yet. Popped on first try. The tubes it came with were pretty heavy.
    3. The finish on the frame definitely isn't as nice as what I have bought from an LBS before but I really don't care since the bike will be ridden hard and the price I paid is practically what the parts are worth alone.
    4. Whoever assembled the bike torqued the hell out of the cassette. I don't see why they had to do it so tight.
    5. Axle threads needed grease.
    6. I hate having any sort of branding on the bike other than the frames make/model so I'm happy that the decals came off nice and easy on the fork/shock and rims.
    7. One of the disclaimer decals left a sticky residue so I'll have to figure out how to remove it without screwing up the carbon.
    8. Mine weighed in at 28.39 lbs. It's a medium. That's a bit less than I've heard other people's Release. It's mostly out of box except in using Deity TMac pedals and no tubes.

  48. #248
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    Quote Originally Posted by Harry Mackenzie View Post
    I received my 5c last night. Just wanted to post my experience setting it up. Last mail order bike I got was a Kilo TT from bikes direct.

    1. It practically comes with everything I needed except for friction paste to put on the dropper.
    2. Easiest tubeless setup I've done yet. Popped on first try. The tubes it came with were pretty heavy.
    3. The finish on the frame definitely isn't as nice as what I have bought from an LBS before but I really don't care since the bike will be ridden hard and the price I paid is practically what the parts are worth alone.
    4. Whoever assembled the bike torqued the hell out of the cassette. I don't see why they had to do it so tight.
    5. Axle threads needed grease.
    6. I hate having any sort of branding on the bike other than the frames make/model so I'm happy that the decals came off nice and easy on the fork/shock and rims.
    7. One of the disclaimer decals left a sticky residue so I'll have to figure out how to remove it without screwing up the carbon.
    8. Mine weighed in at 28.39 lbs. It's a medium. That's a bit less than I've heard other people's Release. It's mostly out of box except in using Deity TMac pedals and no tubes.
    Congrats on the new rig. Post up some pics when you can.

    Bike shop got my 5C in few days ago, still waiting on upgrade parts to get it finished, hopefully in next few weeks.

    With regards, to 7. try Goo-Gone it's citrus based and won't harm your carbon finish. Stay away from Goof-Off which is mostly Hexane.
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  49. #249
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    Quote Originally Posted by Guy.Ford View Post
    Congrats on the new rig. Post up some pics when you can.

    Bike shop got my 5C in few days ago, still waiting on upgrade parts to get it finished, hopefully in next few weeks.

    With regards, to 7. try Goo-Gone it's citrus based and won't harm your carbon finish. Stay away from Goof-Off which is mostly Hexane.
    What parts are you upgrading? So far the only parts I feel need to be changed for my riding are maybe a longer travel dropper post and definitely some Swiss Stop metallic pads. This bike rips. Did a break in ride today. I like how this thing climbs. Took it down some steep chunk. Still dialing in my suspension settings but smashed through some rock gardens that gave me trouble on my previous longer travel Horst Link bike. Tomorrow comes the true test because I'm going to hit some faster chunkier trails.

  50. #250
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    Carbon RF Sixc 35mm rise bars, MRP Ramp Cart, Fox DHX2 Coil, swapping the air shaft to bring the Fox 36 to 160mm travel, MRP G3 chainguide and frame wrap frame, plus other minor touches.
    Quote Originally Posted by Harry Mackenzie View Post
    What parts are you upgrading? So far the only parts I feel need to be changed for my riding are maybe a longer travel dropper post and definitely some Swiss Stop metallic pads. This bike rips. Did a break in ride today. I like how this thing climbs. Took it down some steep chunk. Still dialing in my suspension settings but smashed through some rock gardens that gave me trouble on my previous longer travel Horst Link bike. Tomorrow comes the true test because I'm going to hit some faster chunkier trails.
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  51. #251
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    Looking at getting a new FS bike around 130-150mm

    Tell me why I shouldnt just get a 3/4c/5c? Also at 5'9" and 30-31" inseam is a medium best?

  52. #252
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    I would suggest a medium. As for why you should not get one, prices just went up

  53. #253
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    Quote Originally Posted by kdirk View Post
    Looking at getting a new FS bike around 130-150mm

    Tell me why I shouldnt just get a 3/4c/5c? Also at 5'9" and 30-31" inseam is a medium best?
    I agree with TonyRosa about sizing.

    As to why, well the first reason most people don't buy a DB is their bike snobs and I speak from experience, I'm one too.

    However that being said, the release line is one of the better spec'd lineups I've seen, especially the 5C. The only 2 flaws I found in the 5C where possibly the brakes (Guides have a terrible track record for issues) and the rear Novatec hub. Novatecs are notorious for blowing up, though I've not heard of one issue on a 5C, but that's probably because most people riding them aren't on these forums posting about it. Keep in mind most bikes now a days come with either some low spec hub or Novatecs, so it would be an issue on most any bike you buy so it's a wash. As for the brakes, SRAM has been good about warranty issues, however you can also get a set of Shimano Deore discs pretty cheap and those brakes are solid. I have an extra set of SLX brakes waiting for if/when my guides take a poop.

    Good luck, let us know how things go either way.
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    Kdirk I'm around 5'9'' and 170 pounds and the medium fits me perfect. I dig the geometry, it fits me well. I've put about 100 miles on the 4c so I'll chime in with what I know. I was pretty worried about what quality of bike would show up but sofar I'm pretty darn happy.

    I lubed the linkage bearings on my 2013 Stumpjumper and the 4c last week, I do feel like Specialized used higher quality bearings. One of the lower pivot bearings on the 4C was a little catchy..I lubed it up good and it seems fairly smooth now. I had read some reports that the bearings weren't lubed well but mine were all fairly good. I had no issues getting linkage bolts etc lined up and back in, some people had said they had trouble.

    Shifting and the gear range is spot on. I do have some funny noise sometimes from a couple of the middle gears on the cassette...kind of a funny marbley sound. I can't put my finger on it, it's smooth as silk on the bike stand. I've heard some of the 1x11's were a little noisy, I'll figure it out soon though.

    The brakes are awesome, I really do like the Shimano over my SRAM on the Stumpy. I've had quite a few problems with SRAM, I'm definitely happy to have Shimano.

    The pedaling efficiency is unreal, it climbs so much smoother and easier than my Stumpy or my sons Specialized Camber. The rear suspension is spot on, it just works. The Fox 34 fork was too stiff at first I thought, now that it is broke in it is perfect. It really works well. Descending this bike rips, my Stumpy always kind of felt lazy in the turns, this bike wants to lay over and rip. I'm digging the 27.5's over the 29's. That was probably my biggest worry is dropping from 29's, I'm glad I took the plunge, I feel the 27.5 suits me better.

    Pretty happy with the pedals too, I figured they would be junk but they are pretty sweet!

    The only real gripe I would have is I don't think the paint is durable at all. I've already got a few rubs/chips/scratches. It's pretty thin. I haven't missed not having a water bottle cage yet, I've always got a hydration pack with snacks/pump etc so it's not a problem to me.

    The other gripe is my 13 year old son loves the 4c, he likes it a lot more than his 2016 Camber 29 so as long as this 4c doesn't just disappoint me in some way I'll probably pick one up soon for him too.

    The price increase lately is a bummer! This bike was a steal a few weeks ago!

  55. #255
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    No criticism meant towards tcourdin, meant more as a PSA - but three words - frame protection tape. I can't speak about the paint, but the 4C/5C are carbon bikes and all carbon bikes should have protection tape applied, otherwise your bike will look like hell real soon.


    Quote Originally Posted by tcourdin View Post
    The only real gripe I would have is I don't think the paint is durable at all. I've already got a few rubs/chips/scratches. It's pretty thin.
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  56. #256
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    Quote Originally Posted by kdirk View Post
    Looking at getting a new FS bike around 130-150mm

    Tell me why I shouldnt just get a 3/4c/5c? Also at 5'9" and 30-31" inseam is a medium best?
    As I've said before, if I purchased again, I would DEFINITELY go with a size large. I'm 5'10 with the same length legs as you (the most important part), and a large fits me perfectly when I have the dropper almost all the way into the seat tube. I can't imagine riding a medium - it would just feel too cramped for my liking.

  57. #257
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sigtinius View Post
    As I've said before, if I purchased again, I would DEFINITELY go with a size large. I'm 5'10 with the same length legs as you (the most important part), and a large fits me perfectly when I have the dropper almost all the way into the seat tube. I can't imagine riding a medium - it would just feel too cramped for my liking.
    Same - 5' 10 and I had a R3 in Med, it was way too small. Knees practically hit the handlebars was super awkward. Even with a larger stem bike just felt off.

    I bought a SC Bronson in Large and fit is perfect. I would definitely go large if 5'9 - 5' 10' .

  58. #258
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    Quote Originally Posted by kdirk View Post
    Looking at getting a new FS bike around 130-150mm

    Tell me why I shouldnt just get a 3/4c/5c? Also at 5'9" and 30-31" inseam is a medium best?
    I think it all comes down to personal preference, but at 5'9" with long legs and anyone taller, a large would be the way to go in my opinion. It would just feel like you're cramped if you ride a medium due to how to bike's gemoetry is.

  59. #259
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    I took my 5c on some techie trails today and it did extremely well on the rocky climbs. Downside is that I had my first crash on this bike and broke my dropper.

    UPDATE: Did some reading online for a fix but it seems like I didn't break it but it's a normal function of the KS Lev dropper that it can be pulled up from a lowered position.
    Last edited by Harry Mackenzie; 05-21-2018 at 09:39 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sigtinius View Post
    As I've said before, if I purchased again, I would DEFINITELY go with a size large. I'm 5'10 with the same length legs as you (the most important part), and a large fits me perfectly when I have the dropper almost all the way into the seat tube. I can't imagine riding a medium - it would just feel too cramped for my liking.
    Quote Originally Posted by tw!stedAxle View Post
    Same - 5' 10 and I had a R3 in Med, it was way too small. Knees practically hit the handlebars was super awkward. Even with a larger stem bike just felt off.

    I bought a SC Bronson in Large and fit is perfect. I would definitely go large if 5'9 - 5' 10' .
    That's odd. I purchased a Catch in Medium, basically the same geometry, and it feels perfect. I am 5'10" with a 32" inseam. I had large frames in the past and I always felt stretched out on them.
    Yo no hablo inglťs

  61. #261
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    Quote Originally Posted by Electronaut View Post
    I think it all comes down to personal preference, but at 5'9" with long legs and anyone taller, a large would be the way to go in my opinion. It would just feel like you're cramped if you ride a medium due to how to bike's gemoetry is.
    ^^^^this. I'm 5' 9 1/2" per the last physical, felt like a circus bear on a Medium, and STILL had to put a longer stem on a large to have enough cockpit room.
    I would advise not taking my advice.

  62. #262
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    Bike fitment is so personal, it's sad that people can't get on these bikes locally. DB's odd sizing (old skool) makes it very difficult.

    FWIW, I believe DB made these bikes to have a more cramped cockpit to give the rider more maneuverability, make the bike easier to move around.
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    Hey there, first time poster, long time lurker.

    I just placed an order on a 5c, size Medium. I'm 5' 9.75", 30" pants inseam. I wrote to DB and they recommended a medium. REI had a medium (no large) on the floor and I was able to try it out. Felt great.

    Only stock build issue I see is the 125 mm dropper. At my proper pedalling height, the lower non-moving part of the post was about 3.5" above the frame. I've done the math and know I can get away with a 150/160, and am pretty confident I can swing a 185 Bikeyoke.

    FYI, I currently ride a medium 2014 Mission Pro (last of the 26") and the sizing feels right. That bike has a 100 mm DOSS dropper and I should have gone longer.

  64. #264
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigHerm View Post
    Hey there, first time poster, long time lurker.

    I just placed an order on a 5c, size Medium. I'm 5' 9.75", 30" pants inseam. I wrote to DB and they recommended a medium. REI had a medium (no large) on the floor and I was able to try it out. Felt great.

    Only stock build issue I see is the 125 mm dropper. At my proper pedalling height, the lower non-moving part of the post was about 3.5" above the frame. I've done the math and know I can get away with a 150/160, and am pretty confident I can swing a 185 Bikeyoke.

    FYI, I currently ride a medium 2014 Mission Pro (last of the 26") and the sizing feels right. That bike has a 100 mm DOSS dropper and I should have gone longer.
    Someone on the first page said they fit a 175mm KS Lev on their medium frame. I can probably confirm this in the next few days.

    UPDATE: I fit a 175mm KS Lev Integra in my medium 5c. I can push it down to maybe half an inch from the collar.
    Last edited by Harry Mackenzie; 05-23-2018 at 09:48 PM. Reason: Update!

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    Quote Originally Posted by BigHerm View Post
    Hey there, first time poster, long time lurker.

    I just placed an order on a 5c, size Medium. I'm 5' 9.75", 30" pants inseam. I wrote to DB and they recommended a medium. REI had a medium (no large) on the floor and I was able to try it out. Felt great.

    Only stock build issue I see is the 125 mm dropper. At my proper pedalling height, the lower non-moving part of the post was about 3.5" above the frame. I've done the math and know I can get away with a 150/160, and am pretty confident I can swing a 185 Bikeyoke.

    FYI, I currently ride a medium 2014 Mission Pro (last of the 26") and the sizing feels right. That bike has a 100 mm DOSS dropper and I should have gone longer.
    I would swamp the dropper day 1 and sell your stocker as a "take-off" unit.

  66. #266
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    Check out the new one up components dropper. Iirc itís $220 new for 170mm drop.

  67. #267
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    Quote Originally Posted by PurpleMtnSlayer View Post
    Check out the new one up components dropper. Iirc itís $220 new for 170mm drop.
    Yup. The One Up 170mm dropper will fit in the same space as other 150mm droppers.
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    Thanks for the tips. Was definitely planning on selling the KS post as new takeoff.

    I looked at the oneup post and while it appears nice, and affordable, I really don't like purchasing the first run or so of any product. $80 cartridge out of warranty isn't too bad either, but I would rather replace an o-ring (or whatever) if that's all that's needed. Also, killer deals to be had with Memorial Day sales right now...

    I am looking at frame protection and leaning towards crankskins. Is 3.85" wide enough for the downtube? When I saw the bike in person I was surprised at how wide it was but didn't think to do my unscientific measuring.

  69. #269
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigHerm View Post
    Thanks for the tips. Was definitely planning on selling the KS post as new takeoff.

    I looked at the oneup post and while it appears nice, and affordable, I really don't like purchasing the first run or so of any product. $80 cartridge out of warranty isn't too bad either, but I would rather replace an o-ring (or whatever) if that's all that's needed. Also, killer deals to be had with Memorial Day sales right now...

    I am looking at frame protection and leaning towards crankskins. Is 3.85" wide enough for the downtube? When I saw the bike in person I was surprised at how wide it was but didn't think to do my unscientific measuring.


    I'm interested in the dropper when it gets posted for sale. I bought a release 1 and a dropper is on my list of upgrades.

  70. #270
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dan77 View Post
    I'm interested in the dropper when it gets posted for sale. I bought a release 1 and a dropper is on my list of upgrades.
    I am going to try to sell locally (central CO), and will keep you in mind if that doesn't work out.

    And just got notification that the bike shipped! Woot!

  71. #271
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    I like reviews, but good gawd, let's get some pics in here!!!!
    I said, ďDoc, when I do this, it hurts!Ē Doc responds, ď then donít do thatĒ.

  72. #272
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    I currently have an Intense Recluse. The ONLY reason Im not on a Carbon Release is because they dont offer frame only options. I really wish they would. I had all of the parts I needed from a previous bike build and came across the Recluse SL frame for 1000 shipped to me.

    Diamondback should really think about frame only option on this particular bike. Its a damn nice frame!

  73. #273
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    Tire width maximum?

    Quote Originally Posted by nochamois View Post
    Release 5c

    Unboxing:

    The box was in very good shape. Inside it was packaged very well, not any excess. The bike was in great condition, there was only some tire rub on the head tube. It came with the product manuals for all the major parts, shock pump, pedals, derailleur hanger, tubeless valves, mudguard, torque wrench, and some other small things Iím probably over looking. Everything you need if you just want to put it together and go.

    Assembly:

    I took the long way to the trail and checked everything. Greased and torqued all level link pivots. I only found one bolt washer completely dry and a little stuck, everything was torqued pretty much to spec. Checked rear derailleur hanger alignment, that was spot on. Removed spoke guard, reflectors, etc because.. umm weight. Retorqued cassette. Checked indexing on rear derailleur, only minor adjustment between the 5-7th cog. Setup tubeless, and both rims came pretaped! The rim tire interface was awesome and seated first try on each with a regular pump. Aligned front and rear brake calipers. Installed new grips, the OneUp EDC in the steerer tube, one decal, and my DMR Vaults.

    Thoughts after assembly: I have a longer inseam for my height, and I could easily fit a 150mm with room to spare instead of the 125mm it came with. If I did it the quick way, it would have taken no time: the dropper post was installed in less than a minute; handlebars were setup well; and cable routing on the bike is solid. There is NO room inside the frame for a water bottle on a size medium. The smaller details are nice: they aligned the tire logo on the rim, the seat is angled correctly, they labeled left and right on the cranks for those who may be new to bike maintenance, crank boots on the crank arms, QR code to register, and easy to understand videos online.

    First ride:
    So I spent the night and morning getting ready to give myself a good few hours at my favorite trail center. Just to realize one mile out I forgot my brain bucket. So a 1 hour delay to pick up a new one brought me back and I only had one run. Anyways, the bike is phenomenal. Iím not going to talk as if Iím some Enduro Pro Bro, Iím a hobbyist who enjoys going fast and being outside.
    The suspension is great and supportive. I thought I had the rear a little soft when I was prepping last night. Then during the ride I felt no bob unless I was standing to the point where halfway through I had to check to make sure I had the shock in full open, which it was. Itís super stable down and had to stop a few times to give the people ahead of me space so I wouldnít run them down (I have a big huge total of 0 KOMs). I hit crank once and the bash guard once, when I normally have half a dozen pedal strikes a ride.

    Component check:
    I was initially worried about the 34t chainring even though itís eagle. I was running the xt 11-46 on my old bike. Shifts were super clean and I had all the range I needed considering I havenít ridden in a couple months.
    The WT tires were great and I probably need to go down in pressure. I was running 24f-26r and the trail was super dry.
    The novatec hubs are their new endurbro hubs. Itís over 80 poe by my count. They are crisp and can be heard but arenít I9 loud.
    The handlebar and stem work. Not much to say there besides the stem length seems on point.

    Overall:
    This bike is a great package. The only thing I can poke at is the dropper length, and Iím the kind that burns to change/upgrade all the time. It is perfect for the terrain I ride, where 160/170mm of rear travel is overkill.
    I was originally looking at a Mach 5.5, Calling, and 5010. Once I saw this pop up I bought it immediately. The week of waiting made me wonder if I should have gotten one of the 5010ís on sale, or try and piece and part one of the other two. After today I have no doubt I made the right choice and spent my money right (not a dentist so this bike was a big deal).

    Let me know if you have specific questions and Iíll the best I can.
    Anyone know that the max tire width for this frame is?
    hellboy

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    Quote Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
    Anyone know that the max tire width for this frame is?
    I can't remember what forum I put it on, any who, I've got a Specialized Purgatory Grid 2.6 on the rear. Fits perfectly. I'll try to get a width measurement here soon. I've read some brand's tires run large (Schwalbe) so it depends, but yeah.

  75. #275
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    If you can shoot/post some pics of the tire in that rear triangle, specifically looking from the bottom. I'm curious how much room there is at the stays. If it's not too much trouble. Thanks
    Quote Originally Posted by agauna View Post
    I can't remember what forum I put it on, any who, I've got a Specialized Purgatory Grid 2.6 on the rear. Fits perfectly. I'll try to get a width measurement here soon. I've read some brand's tires run large (Schwalbe) so it depends, but yeah.
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    New bike day! 2018 5c, size medium, stock except for Bikeyoke 185 dropper post. Bike and post arrived yesterday, dropped off at my mechanic this morning. Crankskins protection arrives today.

    So stoked to go for a ride tomorrow!

  77. #277
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    Congrats, enjoy. Time to get dirty.
    Quote Originally Posted by BigHerm View Post
    New bike day! 2018 5c, size medium, stock except for Bikeyoke 185 dropper post. Bike and post arrived yesterday, dropped off at my mechanic this morning. Crankskins protection arrives today.

    So stoked to go for a ride tomorrow!
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    Dirt was ridden. Such a fun bike. Cleaned 2 climb corners that I used to struggle with on my Mission. Descending was a blast too. We are going to be friends.

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    Seems the Release 4C is not on DB's site anymore. Could there be some changes in the specs coming?

  80. #280
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    Quote Originally Posted by TonyRosa View Post
    Seems the Release 4C is not on DB's site anymore. Could there be some changes in the specs coming?
    Sold out, so they removed it.
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  81. #281
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    Anyone know the weight of a stock large 5C?

  82. #282
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    Quote Originally Posted by Electronaut View Post
    Anyone know the weight of a stock large 5C?
    Loamwolf review said their Large 5C weighed 30.19lbs. You could try Diamondback chat on the Diamondback website and talk to tech if nobody else follows up with a weight.
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  83. #283
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    on the 5c, what sag % are people running with the dpx2? I was at about 30% which I know is what Eric Porter suggested (30% front and rear, I believe). At 30% I was about 1PSI/lb body weight (180psi) and getting a ton of unexpected rock strikes.

    I bumped the psi up to 210 (~25% sag) and no more rock strikes really, definitely felt more firm but did not use anywhere near the full travel at the end of a long, rocky ride. Felt odd to put that much pressure in the shock, but I was sitting at a reasonable sag level!

    Anyone have any suggestions on what has worked well for them?

  84. #284
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    Quote Originally Posted by watermonkey View Post
    BB height is directly (although not necessarily linearly) related to sag....increase sag%, decrease BB height, pedal bash rocks. It has absolutely nothing to do with spring rates.

    The graph of the regressive initial spring rate does represent why this bike pedals so much better with a significantly lower initial sag: re: 25% or less. The problem people are having with this setup is that they're running too much sag, blowing through travel, and trying to compensate with volume reducers. It only has 130mm of travel out back, its not supposed to be downhill bike mushy/plushy - this bike is meant to be pedaled, through crap, uphill.

    If you set this bike up with 30% sag (static), but go ride around a smooth parking lot while filming the sag gauge, this bike settles into a dynamic sag in the 40% territory almost immediately. This slackens out your seat tube angle significantly, making it pedal like $h!t with a wandering front end, you blow through your travel, and get that wallowy feel mid stroke when railing turns. Up your pressure and film your sag gauge while riding till you're around 30-25% dynamic sag, loose the volume reducers, add a few click of rebound, and go climb the bejesus out of anything. I'm a big dude, carrying a heavy, prepper worthy camelback, riding fast and hard, and might blow through travel every other ride. I get really close every ride, but not all the way through unless I'm hitting bigger stuff.

    If you up the pressure and keep a huge stack of volume reducers in, you're going to get a brutal ride. My $.02, but air is free, try some more...you might like it.
    sorry to resurrect an old post, but I was wondering if you had any advice how to set up dynamic sag like you mention, I set my static sag around 25-30% all the time but suspect it settles much lower than that when I ride based on how often I have been pedal striking.

  85. #285
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    Quote Originally Posted by aan View Post
    on the 5c, what sag % are people running with the dpx2? I was at about 30% which I know is what Eric Porter suggested (30% front and rear, I believe). At 30% I was about 1PSI/lb body weight (180psi) and getting a ton of unexpected rock strikes.

    I bumped the psi up to 210 (~25% sag) and no more rock strikes really, definitely felt more firm but did not use anywhere near the full travel at the end of a long, rocky ride. Felt odd to put that much pressure in the shock, but I was sitting at a reasonable sag level!

    Anyone have any suggestions on what has worked well for them?
    Remove the volume reducer from your DPX2, ride, see how it performs, if your bottoming try a smaller reducer than the one previously used. It's going to require some fiddling on your part to get it sorted.

    Because everyone's needs, riding style, etc, is different there is no way for someone to determine what will work best for you.
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    I added and tested a level link protector flap. So far so good.

    On two occasions I got rocks trapped into the recess of the lower linkage that then were pushed into the frame by the motion of the rear suspension. After the first one I applied some VW Tornado Red touchup paint and then covered the area with a rectangular clear frame protector strip. This past weekend I noticed that my protector strip was all mangled from another rock incident and decided I needed a better solution.

    I cut an old tube about 6 inches long by 2 inches wide. I then cut holes in the ends and zip tied it around the black linkage piece. I made sure to also add another protector piece to avoid zip tie damage. I trimmed the tube around the rear triangle attachment points and went for a ride.

    I was worried the flap would move around while riding but on my first 12 mile ride this did not happen. I took this idea from DW Link bikes. Should work for mud too.

    Cheers!

  87. #287
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigHerm View Post
    I added and tested a level link protector flap. So far so good.

    On two occasions I got rocks trapped into the recess of the lower linkage that then were pushed into the frame by the motion of the rear suspension. After the first one I applied some VW Tornado Red touchup paint and then covered the area with a rectangular clear frame protector strip. This past weekend I noticed that my protector strip was all mangled from another rock incident and decided I needed a better solution.

    I cut an old tube about 6 inches long by 2 inches wide. I then cut holes in the ends and zip tied it around the black linkage piece. I made sure to also add another protector piece to avoid zip tie damage. I trimmed the tube around the rear triangle attachment points and went for a ride.

    I was worried the flap would move around while riding but on my first 12 mile ride this did not happen. I took this idea from DW Link bikes. Should work for mud too.

    Cheers!
    Not a bad idea but that inner tube in addition to any dust underneath it while moving as much as it does will rub through that paint in no time

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    Pivot has a solution to this problem for their bikes, I wonder if it would fit decent on the Release? If not, maybe copy the concept and cut your own from some sheet material?

    https://www.competitivecyclist.com/p...link-protector

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    This was my first (rushed) attempt, and I think with some more detail cutting and frame protectors, rubbing won't be an issue. I am less worried about cosmetic damage over time than I am about catastrophic damage from a pointy rock and a big hit. 2x in 2 weeks is enough for me to know it is only a matter of time.

  90. #290
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    Quote Originally Posted by Austin-nc View Post
    Not a bad idea but that inner tube in addition to any dust underneath it while moving as much as it does will rub through that paint in no time

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
    I had similar concerns when I got my 5C also, having friends that ride Pivots made me very aware of the issues concerning these types of linkage bikes. With that in mind I used a bunch of protective tape all over my bike. This far I haven't had any issues with rocks, though it does collect a lot of dirt/debris from the forests here in PNW. Time will tell as I ride more varied trails, afterall I've only had the bike two weeks.

    Good luck with your experiments, please keep us informed on how it's progressing with what works or doesn't. I appreciate the interest in protecting the bike and any feedback related.
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  91. #291
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    I had some bad creaking in the frame after my first couple rides on my 5c, retorqued and lubed the shock mount bolts as I read here that was often a culprit and I thought the upper shock mount was where the creak was coming from. First ride after doing this the creak went away but now on the next ride its back! If I loosen up the shock mount bolts quite a bit the creaking goes away mostly...but its so hard to track down for sure where it is coming from. It seems to mostly creak when the rear compresses, I don't think it is coming from the front/headset but at this point I don't know. Anyone have any experience? Any advice appreciated!

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    The creak on mine was coming from the top shock mount as you suspected on yours. It did come back about three weeks later and I re-greased it. So far it is silent. I would recommend servicing all the pivot points though. Mine were rather dry. I made a video of servicing the pivot points on my 4C on YT.
    https://youtu.be/wtpT650MobU

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    After careful consideration and researching other lower link protection, I decided to change things up and go with some good ol Gorilla Tape. I made a paper template then cut it out. There is still a clear piece of frame tape on the seat tube with a gap between it and the black tape. No overlapping material and no chance for frame rubbing.

    Test day tomorrow.

    On another note, I dropped a chain shifting into the 50 last week. I ordered the MRP AMg V2 and hope to have it installed this week. My last bike had the top guide only and I didn't drop a chain with it. I also like the idea of the bash guard with the low BB.
    Last edited by BigHerm; 07-01-2018 at 07:37 AM.

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    6 DH runs later the protector emerged slightly scathed. There was a small tear on the unsupported inner edge of the linkage. However, the seat tube had no damage.

    For V3 I will be adding layers of Gorilla Tape in the same shape. Possibly with a thin piece east to west to strengthen the span.

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    Grease the Creak Suggestion

    I recently got the shock creak, here is how I resolved it.

    Pull the shock mounting bolts, I did top and bottom. Apply liberal amounts of grease to the mounting bolts, between the bolt and recessed washer, between the washer and frame & shock and frame. Torque everything back up to spec and wipe off excess grease. Good luck.

    Any Carbon Release (5c, 4c) owners yet?-p5pb15215867.jpg
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigHerm View Post
    After careful consideration and researching other lower link protection, I decided to change things up and go with some good ol Gorilla Tape. I made a paper template then cut it out. There is still a clear piece of frame tape on the seat tube with a gap between it and the black tape. No overlapping material and no chance for frame rubbing.

    Test day tomorrow.

    On another note, I dropped a chain shifting into the 50 last week. I ordered the MRP AMg V2 and hope to have it installed this week. My last bike had the top guide only and I didn't drop a chain with it. I also like the idea of the bash guard with the low BB.
    Have you thought about adding a "wing" like on the DW Link Protector, then you can cut the piece back a bit so it doesn't interfere/tear on the unsupported edge but will still offer protection?

    Any Carbon Release (5c, 4c) owners yet?-links-protector.jpg
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    I had not really considered that and may end up adding that to V4 now that you bring it up. That piece would have to be either elastic or long enough to accommodate the movement of the suspension.

    For now I removed the V2 piece and used it as a template for my 3 layer V3 piece. Hopefully have the bike back Wednesday for testing.

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    Quote Originally Posted by BigHerm View Post
    I had not really considered that and may end up adding that to V4 now that you bring it up. That piece would have to be either elastic or long enough to accommodate the movement of the suspension.

    For now I removed the V2 piece and used it as a template for my 3 layer V3 piece. Hopefully have the bike back Wednesday for testing.
    I'll draw a mock up and explanation and update in a few minutes, maybe that will help?

    Here is a mock up with description. After thinking about it, if you used a thin enough plastic you could extend it a bit further back under the tape on the link so it bends against the seat tube, but wouldnt be so stiff as to pull up the tape.

    Any Carbon Release (5c, 4c) owners yet?-linkage-protector-v5.png
    Last edited by Guy.Ford; 07-03-2018 at 01:59 PM.
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    That is definitely an option. I am more inclined to simply block the opening on the black link.

    I'll report back after my next ride. 🤞
    Last edited by BigHerm; 07-02-2018 at 08:32 PM.

  100. #300
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    Quote Originally Posted by Guy.Ford View Post
    I recently got the shock creak, here is how I resolved it.

    Pull the shock mounting bolts, I did top and bottom. Apply liberal amounts of grease to the mounting bolts, between the bolt and recessed washer, between the washer and frame & shock and frame. Torque everything back up to spec and wipe off excess grease. Good luck.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Did this just the past weekend, actually pulled all linkage bolts and cleaned/greased everything. Was good for a bit, went riding again today and now it is creaking again. Thinking maybe the creak is coming from somewhere else? I could have sworn it was the front shock mount, or maybe the rear one, but I cleaned and greased the shit out of them and torqued them both to spec.

    Not sure if I need to go through the headset and/or seatpost now to try to find it...any one have any tips? It seems to mostly be present when climbing uphill but I can replicate the sound when standing and bouncing on the suspension sometimes, but that may just be because thats when it is easiest to hear. Might be happening while descending too but not loud enough to hear over the hub and wind.

  101. #301
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    Don't overlook the bottom bracket. I had a creak for a while that I couldn't pinpoint and it turned out to be the BB.
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  102. #302
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    Quote Originally Posted by aan View Post
    Did this just the past weekend, actually pulled all linkage bolts and cleaned/greased everything. Was good for a bit, went riding again today and now it is creaking again. Thinking maybe the creak is coming from somewhere else? I could have sworn it was the front shock mount, or maybe the rear one, but I cleaned and greased the shit out of them and torqued them both to spec.

    Not sure if I need to go through the headset and/or seatpost now to try to find it...any one have any tips? It seems to mostly be present when climbing uphill but I can replicate the sound when standing and bouncing on the suspension sometimes, but that may just be because thats when it is easiest to hear. Might be happening while descending too but not loud enough to hear over the hub and wind.
    Hard to say, could also be saddle, seatpost, etc. My saddle creaks like crazy, not stock saddle. I lubed it but have not had a chance to ride to check it. Also think my collar and post could use a lube, but I've been lazy and it's not bothering me enough.

    I would say try lubing saddle rails, seatpost & seat post collar to see if that helps. These things can be tricky, good luck.

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    Next ride took a while due to unforeseen circumstances. So far my 3 layer Gorilla Tape is holding up fine after 4 DH laps (2 chunky, 2 flowy/jumpy). I used all my travel .

    Also, in Guy's diagram, it would be impossible to construct that out of 1 piece of standard tape. My flap is already as deep as the tape is wide. Not saying the idea doesn't have merit, would just take more creative construction.

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    I've just come to accept that some creaking with carbon is normal. The carbon amplifies every little creak. Right now I have some mild creaking again. Once it gets bad I'll grease everything up again.

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    Just had 200 mm rotors installed front and rear. My 180 rear rotor was discolored from overheating and the rear brake was already in need of its third bleed in 2 months.

    Also, MRP AMg guide is running strong. 0 dropped chains in several rides

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    Would any large/xl 5c owners be interested in trading dropper posts?

    The 125mm dropper post on my medium is just a little too short. Pm me if interested.

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    I did the pivot service yesterday on my medium 5c, as I noticed a slight creak. I had no alignment issues upon re-assembly as others in the release 1/2/3 thread have complained about. Definitely did not need a mallet. I did notice the axles had a chamfer, which seems to be a revised design from DB to make this service easier.

    The creak is solved for now, but I discovered a very small internal hex set screw in the bottom pivot hole on the main frame. No clue where it's from..
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Any Carbon Release (5c, 4c) owners yet?-20180731_214058.jpg  

    Any Carbon Release (5c, 4c) owners yet?-20180731_214113.jpg  


  108. #308
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    In the seat tube? Could you be shedding parts from your dropper?
    I would advise not taking my advice.

  109. #309
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    Quote Originally Posted by watermonkey View Post
    In the seat tube? Could you be shedding parts from your dropper?
    That does look like it could be the dropper post's actuating cable retaining bolt at the bottom of the dropper and have some loose and fallen. Is the dropper post functioning properly?
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    Yup! It was the dropper post cable retaining bolt. Oddly enough, it was working correctly, but now it's installed. Thanks!

  111. #311
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    Good Catch everyone, would have been a bummer if that cable had Release'd and left the OP in a Clutch on the trail with no dropper post. LOL
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  112. #312
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    Quote Originally Posted by Guy.Ford View Post
    Good Catch everyone, would have been a bummer if that cable had Release'd and left the OP in a Clutch on the trail with no dropper post. LOL
    You almost got neg rep'd for that.
    I would advise not taking my advice.

  113. #313
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    Quote Originally Posted by watermonkey View Post
    You almost got neg rep'd for that.
    Any Carbon Release (5c, 4c) owners yet?-stark.jpg
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    Just got my Guide RS rear brake lever warrantied and replaced with an RSC. My rear brake was getting squishy after a very short amount of use. Here's hoping it gets the job done .

  115. #315
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigHerm View Post
    Just got my Guide RS rear brake lever warrantied and replaced with an RSC. My rear brake was getting squishy after a very short amount of use. Here's hoping it gets the job done .
    UGH, glad they got it sorted.

    Though I must say it would definitely bother me having mismatched brakes, that's just janky. It fits the model, equal or better, but still.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Guy.Ford View Post
    UGH, glad they got it sorted.

    Though I must say it would definitely bother me having mismatched brakes, that's just janky. It fits the model, equal or better, but still.
    Agree. Would really bother me with the asymmetry.

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    As long as the brakes function well I don't care if they're mismatched.

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    2018 Diamondback Release 5c

    I have been very happy with my release, only mods I have made are running wheels tubeless and bottle cage on outside of frame. Only regret is lack of space for bottle cage on INSIDE of frame. Terrific bike for the money, great value.Any Carbon Release (5c, 4c) owners yet?-diamondback-release-5c.jpg

  119. #319
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    Quote Originally Posted by triton189 View Post
    I have been very happy with my release, only mods I have made are running wheels tubeless and bottle cage on outside of frame. Only regret is lack of space for bottle cage on INSIDE of frame. Terrific bike for the money, great value.
    You aren't kidding about no mods, you even left the dork disc on the rear cassette. Have you found that it helps?
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    hah that was taken right after assembly. Disc is gone but not forgotten.

  121. #321
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    I keep my dork disk on, not so much for fashion but for function. I've seen too many occasions where a dork disk would have prevented the walk of shame back to the car. I've had an occasion where if it weren't for the disk I would have had to make that walk. So I wear my disk proudly.
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    Anyone have trouble with their rear axle coming loose? Mine's come loose 3 or 4 times now. Threads seem fine, and I've always used a torque wrench to tighten it to 10Nm.

    I'm trying blue loctite this time around.

  123. #323
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    Quote Originally Posted by jamesm113 View Post
    Anyone have trouble with their rear axle coming loose? Mine's come loose 3 or 4 times now. Threads seem fine, and I've always used a torque wrench to tighten it to 10Nm.

    I'm trying blue loctite this time around.
    The loctite will work. Also grease the axle shaft itself. Is 10Nm what it calls for?

  124. #324
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    Quote Originally Posted by jamesm113 View Post
    Anyone have trouble with their rear axle coming loose? Mine's come loose 3 or 4 times now. Threads seem fine, and I've always used a torque wrench to tighten it to 10Nm.

    I'm trying blue loctite this time around.
    Loctite and leave it be for 24-36 hrs.

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  125. #325
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    Quote Originally Posted by jamesm113 View Post
    Anyone have trouble with their rear axle coming loose? Mine's come loose 3 or 4 times now. Threads seem fine, and I've always used a torque wrench to tighten it to 10Nm.

    I'm trying blue loctite this time around.
    Loads of people have this problem, it's all over the web as a common problem with Novatec hubs. For some reason the factory these things come out of refuse to apply loctite to the threads on the axle holding the hub together. I've spoken with Novatec about this, they are aware.

    I can't stress enough, in the future with any bike you buy with Novatec hubs, always check the threads on the axle sleeve end caps to be sure they have loctite.

    Also with regards to torque, not sure how much is needed. Judging from this video, doesn't seem like much. Just snug seems like enough.

    FF to 3:45 - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OwZj6XOa4zQ
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    I believe he is referring to the thru bolt itself, not the hub.

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    Quote Originally Posted by triton189 View Post
    I believe he is referring to the thru bolt itself, not the hub.
    DOH! How interesting, my bad, never had that issue so assumed he was talking about the hub. Yeah shouldn't really need loctite on the axle, but if need be should work.
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    Correct - the problem is the thru bolt keeps coming loose. No problems with the hub (at least not that I know of). 10Nm is the spec on the bolt itself. And, yea, i've been lightly greasing the axle shaft portion.

    It'll be very difficult to let it sit for 24-36 hours... Bike's too fun to ride

  129. #329
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    Quote Originally Posted by jamesm113 View Post
    Correct - the problem is the thru bolt keeps coming loose. No problems with the hub (at least not that I know of). 10Nm is the spec on the bolt itself. And, yea, i've been lightly greasing the axle shaft portion.
    I've had this problem on my aluminum Release. Scary at times!

    Diamondback recommended using Teflon plumber's tape instead of Loctite.

    I gave up on the Diamondback supplied axle and bought a Lightning Bolt-On Replacement Thru-Axle. Problem solved.

  130. #330
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    Quote Originally Posted by JT1 View Post
    Diamondback recommended using Teflon plumber's tape instead of Loctite.
    Good to know, thanks
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    Interesting. I rode my 5c at a bike park this weekend (not really advised when brake jacked) and on the last lap, there was strange noise I couldn't locate. We were loading it into the truck when by brother in law noticed the back axle was FULLY unthreaded and hanging halfway out. Luckily, it threaded back in and seems fine, but damn, that would have been a catastrophic failure if it had come out, probably destroying the entire rear triangle, the rear brakes, the derailleur, and who knows what else.

  132. #332
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    Quote Originally Posted by rootskier View Post
    Interesting. I rode my 5c at a bike park this weekend (not really advised when brake jacked) and on the last lap, there was strange noise I couldn't locate. We were loading it into the truck when by brother in law noticed the back axle was FULLY unthreaded and hanging halfway out. Luckily, it threaded back in and seems fine, but damn, that would have been a catastrophic failure if it had come out, probably destroying the entire rear triangle, the rear brakes, the derailleur, and who knows what else.
    I had the same thing happen to me and also at a bike park but it was on a different bike. The rear felt squirlly and I had no idea why. Then I looked down and saw that the thru-axle was nearly out. I screwed it back on and all was good again. I guess this is why some people got rid of the quick release version on thru-axles.
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  133. #333
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    The 5C has an actual thru-bolt and not a quick release thru-axle, right?

    My Release 3 has the stock quick release thru-axle and I've noticed that it is finicky with tension. Don't know if there is stretch going on or something else because once in a while, I will get a clicking sound under pedal load. Retighten the thru-axle and it goes away. It is like it is losing tension which seems hard for the quick release variety to lose it through unscrewing. So wonder if there is a common issue (hub or the multilayers on the "nut" side) with the thru-axle setup where the axle is losing tension. Once tension is lost with a thru bolt, would allow it to back out on its own.

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    Yes, it's a thru-bolt. Per this thread, I am going to put some teflon tape on it tonight.

  135. #335
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    Quote Originally Posted by tonyride1 View Post
    ... I guess this is why some people got rid of the quick release version on thru-axles.
    Yes. Once I swapped out the original QR axle for a non-QR axle, the problem disappeared. No need for Loctite, plumber's tape, or any other substance. The axle is now worry free.

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    see ya all later!
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    Quote Originally Posted by usuallylost View Post
    Knock on wood, no trouble and quiet. I wonder if that is such a good thing, if'n I sneak up on a bear in the woods...
    Please post if you've found a frame bag that will work with the piggyback shock. I'm still looking for one! - Usuallylost it looks like you found some that may work? What brand are those?

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    Same here, not a lick of trouble out of my sons 4c or my 5c. Well nothing other than a creaky seatpost on his, and I still dislike the feel of the sram brakes on my 5c. I kinda wish i had stuck with the 4c for me too. I do love Shimano components.

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    Thanks, usuallylost. Anyone know if the blackburn bag will fit on a 5C with the piggyback on the shock?

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    Keep in mind it may not fit on certain size frames, it might be helpful to post that info as well.

    I would say large and xl frames are good but not sure medium or small.

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  143. #343
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    see ya all later!
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  144. #344
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    Trying to dial in my suspension. Can someone around 150-160lb share all their fork and shock psi/ settings with # of clicks. I want suggestions to try for myself. Thanks!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sigtinius View Post
    Trying to dial in my suspension. Can someone around 150-160lb share all their fork and shock psi/ settings with # of clicks. I want suggestions to try for myself. Thanks!
    I would suggest starting with Fox suggested settings and then bracket from there.

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  146. #346
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    Quote Originally Posted by tabbibus View Post
    I'm looking at getting the 4C but I'm scared of the set up. When you say you had to adjust the calipers, what do you mean? Is it easy? Do I need special tools? Also does the bike come with sealant for tubeless or did you have to get that yourself?

    And the level links. Did you have to disassemble all the pivots and reassemble? Any issues with alignment as has been reported with the aluminum releases?



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  147. #347
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    Anyone willing to trade their 125mm KS LEV (new or lightly used) from a small or medium release for my 150mm KS LEV (which is very lightly used and in perfect condition) dropper post?

  148. #348
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sigtinius View Post
    Anyone willing to trade their 125mm KS LEV (new or lightly used) from a small or medium release for my 150mm KS LEV (which is very lightly used and in perfect condition) dropper post?
    I believe I have a 125 lev from my 2018 M 5C that I'd be willing to trade. I'll check this evening, PM me if still interested.
    Chad.

  149. #349
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    Did some spring cleaning with my bike this week...took all linkages apart, cleaned and re-greased. Running just as silent as new now!

    One issue I had...I took most cockpit bolts out to grease and re-torque to spec. I am an idiot and loosened up the stem clamp on the fork, forgetting I had taken out the top cap and screw to clean already. Fork dropped out of the frame and parts everywhere.

    I *think* I got everything put together correctly. the bearing in the bottom of the headset came out, and spacers went everywhere, but I don't think anything else scattered away other than the top dust cap. I reassembled it all and there is no play in it, but still nervous I missed something as I am not super familiar with headset maintenance. Anyone have any advice? Or would you rec to just take by a shop to make sure everything is in order. I couldn't find a good diagram on FSA site that clearly labels all the parts.

  150. #350
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    Quote Originally Posted by aan View Post
    Did some spring cleaning with my bike this week...took all linkages apart, cleaned and re-greased. Running just as silent as new now!

    One issue I had...I took most cockpit bolts out to grease and re-torque to spec. I am an idiot and loosened up the stem clamp on the fork, forgetting I had taken out the top cap and screw to clean already. Fork dropped out of the frame and parts everywhere.

    I *think* I got everything put together correctly. the bearing in the bottom of the headset came out, and spacers went everywhere, but I don't think anything else scattered away other than the top dust cap. I reassembled it all and there is no play in it, but still nervous I missed something as I am not super familiar with headset maintenance. Anyone have any advice? Or would you rec to just take by a shop to make sure everything is in order. I couldn't find a good diagram on FSA site that clearly labels all the parts.

    Here is an exploded view of a typical headset, this one in particular is used on the 5C/4C (FSA No.57).

    Any Carbon Release (5c, 4c) owners yet?-fsa-no57-zs-bearing.jpg

    First let me start by saying, this happens to the best of us.

    I'm going to point out the part by number in the drawing to indicate in what parts you may have dropped.

    Lets start with the bottom cup, the only thing that will fall out is the bearing (#8), so if you got that back in your good.

    Top cup, you likely dropped the headset cover (#2), 2 seals (#1 & 3) and possibly the compression ring (#4) and bearing (#5), if you got all those parts back in your good.

    Glad to hear the linkage disassembly/assembly went well, it can be a bugger for some folks. If you ever have any issues/concerns, I've posted a document to show how it should be performed that I worked with DB creating, to assist riders.
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  151. #351
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    Thanks for the helpful reply, I think I should be good to go!

  152. #352
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    Quote Originally Posted by Guy.Ford View Post
    Here is an exploded view of a typical headset, this one in particular is used on the 5C/4C (FSA No.57).

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	FSA No57 ZS bearing.jpg 
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ID:	1247346

    First let me start by saying, this happens to the best of us.

    I'm going to point out the part by number in the drawing to indicate in what parts you may have dropped.

    Lets start with the bottom cup, the only thing that will fall out is the bearing (#8), so if you got that back in your good.

    Top cup, you likely dropped the headset cover (#2), 2 seals (#1 & 3) and possibly the compression ring (#4) and bearing (#5), if you got all those parts back in your good.

    Glad to hear the linkage disassembly/assembly went well, it can be a bugger for some folks. If you ever have any issues/concerns, I've posted a document to show how it should be performed that I worked with DB creating, to assist riders.
    Took the headset back apart, intentionally this time, and looks like I am missing # 1 and 3, unless they are somehow fused together or lodged within the headset cover. I looked all over the garage and no missing parts laying around. I don't see anything that looks like it has gotten stuck to the headset cover

    Edit: how many spacers came on your 5C? I have 5 on mine but one of them is super thin...want to make sure this is a spacer and not part of the headset...

  153. #353
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    Quote Originally Posted by aan View Post
    Took the headset back apart, intentionally this time, and looks like I am missing # 1 and 3, unless they are somehow fused together or lodged within the headset cover. I looked all over the garage and no missing parts laying around. I don't see anything that looks like it has gotten stuck to the headset cover

    Edit: how many spacers came on your 5C? I have 5 on mine but one of them is super thin...want to make sure this is a spacer and not part of the headset...
    Is there a rubber gasket around parts 1&3? If so that should be what your looking for.

    Don't recall how many spacers it came with sorry.


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  154. #354
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    Quote Originally Posted by Guy.Ford View Post
    Is there a rubber gasket around parts 1&3? If so that should be what your looking for.

    Don't recall how many spacers it came with sorry.


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    There is a rubber gasket in the underside of the headset cover, but as best as I could tell it seems like it is all one piece. When I put the headset back together this way everything went together well and there is no play at all so I am assuming it all went together correctly!

  155. #355
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    Quote Originally Posted by aan View Post
    There is a rubber gasket in the underside of the headset cover, but as best as I could tell it seems like it is all one piece. When I put the headset back together this way everything went together well and there is no play at all so I am assuming it all went together correctly!
    Yeah that sounds right, usually the rubber seal/gasket is attached, not sure why they show it as a separate part in the diagram, maybe just to confuse people. Have fun and enjoy your refreshed ride.
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  156. #356
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    Quote Originally Posted by Guy.Ford View Post
    Yeah that sounds right, usually the rubber seal/gasket is attached, not sure why they show it as a separate part in the diagram, maybe just to confuse people. Have fun and enjoy your refreshed ride.
    Thanks and thanks again for the help, happy trails!

  157. #357
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    Anyone with Large or XL release 5C wanting to trade their 150mm ks lev dropper post for 125mm from my medium 5C? Pm me!

  158. #358
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    I noticed on my 5C today that when I spin the front wheel, it vibrates all the way up the stanchion and you can feel it in the handlebars. Is this something with the hub and should I be concerned about it?


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  159. #359
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sigtinius View Post
    I noticed on my 5C today that when I spin the front wheel, it vibrates all the way up the stanchion and you can feel it in the handlebars. Is this something with the hub and should I be concerned about it?


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    Sounds like your front brake maybe rubbing slightly, check to be sure it's aligned straight and that your rotors are straight. Best way is to look through the caliper and make sure there is even space front to back, also rotor isn't bent.


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  160. #360
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    Quote Originally Posted by jamesm113 View Post
    Anyone have trouble with their rear axle coming loose? Mine's come loose 3 or 4 times now. Threads seem fine, and I've always used a torque wrench to tighten it to 10Nm.

    I'm trying blue loctite this time around.
    Yup. My aluminum Release is having issues every ride. I'll be switching to a bolt instead of the QR.
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  161. #361
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    No rotor rub, front tire appears aligned and straight. Still doing the vibration at what seems to be certain parts on the tire on each rotation. Still not sure what it is...

  162. #362
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    Does your wheel look tru when you spin it? If it is not tru you may have some loose spokes. Just curious but the axle is tight on the wheel correct?

  163. #363
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sigtinius View Post
    No rotor rub, front tire appears aligned and straight. Still doing the vibration at what seems to be certain parts on the tire on each rotation. Still not sure what it is...
    That's so weird.

    Another guess, it could possibly be bearings in the hub, might want to check to see how the grease is holding up in the front wheel.
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  164. #364
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    I dented my rear rim pretty good last season and finally got around to getting a replacement. I was wanting to get a Spank 350 but it required new spokes and was not available in my timeframe. LBS gave me a great deal on a Spank Oozy Trail 345 (30mm id) and my mechanic laced it up to the old hub.

    After a couple weeks I went for a new rear tire since the Michelin Wild AM 2.6 was a little snug and slow for the summer XC season. Went with an e13 Semi Slick LG1r EN 2.35. Hard, fast rolling center nobs, softer grippy cornering nobs with an Aramid Enduro casing. Should be perfect for coaching Colorado XC and bike park days.

    Had a Cush Core installed at the same time and everything sealed up perfectly with Orange Seal.

    I have around 20 miles or so on the new setup and I am very happy so far. Still messing around with pressures but my climbing and braking traction was sufficient for our currently very dry trails.

  165. #365
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigHerm View Post
    I dented my rear rim pretty good last season and finally got around to getting a replacement. I was wanting to get a Spank 350 but it required new spokes and was not available in my timeframe. LBS gave me a great deal on a Spank Oozy Trail 345 (30mm id) and my mechanic laced it up to the old hub.

    After a couple weeks I went for a new rear tire since the Michelin Wild AM 2.6 was a little snug and slow for the summer XC season. Went with an e13 Semi Slick LG1r EN 2.35. Hard, fast rolling center nobs, softer grippy cornering nobs with an Aramid Enduro casing. Should be perfect for coaching Colorado XC and bike park days.

    Had a Cush Core installed at the same time and everything sealed up perfectly with Orange Seal.

    I have around 20 miles or so on the new setup and I am very happy so far. Still messing around with pressures but my climbing and braking traction was sufficient for our currently very dry trails.
    Sweet setup, definitely sounds burly enough to hopefully keep future dents at bay.

    Sucks about the rear wheel I feel you though I dented mine a few weeks back as well. Replaced it with a new RF Offset Arc30, installed a Vitorria Air-liner and also use Orange Seal. Definitely my fav sealant thus far.




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  166. #366
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    In case anyone is interested Bicycle Warehouse has the 4C (red and silver) for $3K. That's a bit cheaper than corp discount and Expervoice.

    https://bicyclewarehouse.com/collect...15841797275750

  167. #367
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    You guys should check out the new Seth bike hacks video, he has a new bike he shows at the end that looks like a 5c 29er.....could be wrong...
    The bike is never to heavy, you are just to WEAK!

  168. #368
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    Quote Originally Posted by MUSTCLIME View Post
    You guys should check out the new Seth bike hacks video, he has a new bike he shows at the end that looks like a 5c 29er.....could be wrong...
    The Whistler video? That's the new Mission.

  169. #369
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    Yeah new Mission 2C

    Seth Video
    Any Carbon Release (5c, 4c) owners yet?-seth-mission.jpg


    Diamondback Mission 2C from DB site
    Any Carbon Release (5c, 4c) owners yet?-mission-2-carbon-_-diamondback.png
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  170. #370
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    Yea, you are right....sorry
    The bike is never to heavy, you are just to WEAK!

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