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  1. #1
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    Troy shock upgrades- talk to me.

    I am looking for feedback on anything but the stock rock shox that came on my 2017 troy.
    It is tired and notchy.

    Leaning towards coil but open to hear what others have tried.



    Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

  2. #2
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    I am curious the coil shock performance. I dont like air shocks bec the reliability isssues.

  3. #3
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    I can highly recommend the cane creek inline coil. I picked one up a few months ago and have been really impressed. I use my Troy for everything from XC to lift assist downhill and this shocks rocks. Makes the bikes feel super capable and the coil just has great feel. I am still getting it dialed in but I canít recommend it enough. I almost went with the DVO topaz air shock, it gets great reviews too. But the coil shock is a game changer in my opinion.

  4. #4
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    Elevensix?

    Iíd be interested in hearing anyone who ran the 200 x 57 (or 55 custom) and how that affects the ride characteristics.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by CharlieDog View Post
    I can highly recommend the cane creek inline coil. I picked one up a few months ago and have been really impressed. I use my Troy for everything from XC to lift assist downhill and this shocks rocks. Makes the bikes feel super capable and the coil just has great feel. I am still getting it dialed in but I canít recommend it enough. I almost went with the DVO topaz air shock, it gets great reviews too. But the coil shock is a game changer in my opinion.
    Thanks- after weeks of reading I have decided on the Cane Creek inline coil.

    Has anyone gone with the 57mm stroke to squeeze out a bit more travel?

    If so any regrets?


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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by crankpuller View Post
    Thanks- after weeks of reading I have decided on the Cane Creek inline coil.

    Has anyone gone with the 57mm stroke to squeeze out a bit more travel?

    If so any regrets?


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    I would personally avoid a 57mm stroke shock... I made a "dummy" shock out of aluminium and drilled holes in it simulating 57mm and 51mm stroke lenghts. In the "slack" chip setting the seat stay will hit the seat post tube before it is compressed, in the "steep" chip setting the clearance is minimal(around 2mm). Just a little to close for comfort in my opinion. I was hoping to run a 57mm stroke shock myself.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by fltmech09 View Post
    I would personally avoid a 57mm stroke shock... I made a "dummy" shock out of aluminium and drilled holes in it simulating 57mm and 51mm stroke lenghts. In the "slack" chip setting the seat stay will hit the seat post tube before it is compressed, in the "steep" chip setting the clearance is minimal(around 2mm). Just a little to close for comfort in my opinion. I was hoping to run a 57mm stroke shock myself.
    Thanks. Just ordered it from Cane Creek. They responded quickly when I inquired about the hardware required and were also the cheapest I could find online.

    I will post some pics once I get it setup


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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by crankpuller View Post
    Thanks. Just ordered it from Cane Creek. They responded quickly when I inquired about the hardware required and were also the cheapest I could find online.

    I will post some pics once I get it setup


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    Ride report is a must once you have a chance to take it out! The DBIL coil is very high on my want list!

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by fltmech09 View Post
    Ride report is a must once you have a chance to take it out! The DBIL coil is very high on my want list!
    Got it mounted today and went for a spin around the block- can't do a real ride report until the spring but initial impressions are that it is really plush -

    Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by crankpuller View Post
    I am looking for feedback on anything but the stock rock shox that came on my 2017 troy.
    It is tired and notchy.

    Leaning towards coil but open to hear what others have tried.



    Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

    Upgraded the monarch on my 2017 Troy Carbon to a 2017 float x2. It's a bit heavier than the monarch, but its amazing!

  11. #11
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    I purchased a Monarch Plus in L/L tune. I find it spikey (I think), something is not right. The RT3 seems to be tuned better IMO.
    My previous bike was an Enduro with a Monarch Plus tuned for the Enduro, and I had the same feeling about it on that bike. Not sure what it is about the Plus.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by crankpuller View Post
    Got it mounted today and went for a spin around the block- can't do a real ride report until the spring but initial impressions are that it is really plush -

    Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
    Two rides in on the cc inline coil and I can confidently say that this is the most noticable upgrade you can do to the bike. Biggest improvement is the washboard decents. The old monarch couldn't handle them. The inline coil flattened them. I was amazed how much more speed I was able to descend with due to being controlled vs rattled.

    I almost always have kept the climb switch off on this bike - it is unnecessary IMO. The climb switch on this shock keeps things active but muted and isn't a full lockout - traction everywhere. Either way I probably will not use the climb switch.

    Shock setup is the stock tune with 4 turns of preload. 400lb vault spring. 167 lb trail rider kitted up.

    Overall I am extremely impressed.

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    Last edited by crankpuller; 03-31-2018 at 07:39 AM.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by crankpuller View Post
    Two rides in on the cc inline coil and I can confidently say that this is the most noticable upgrade you can do to the bike. Biggest improvement is the washboard decents. The old monarch couldn't handle them. The inline coil flattened them. I was amazed how much more speed I was able to descend with due to being controlled vs rattled.

    I almost always have kept the climb switch off on this bike - it is unnecessary IMO. The climb switch on this shock keeps things active but muted and isn't a full lockout - traction everywhere. Either way I probably will not use the climb switch.

    Shock setup is the stock tune with 4 turns of preload. 400lb vault spring. 167 lb trail rider kitted up.

    Overall I am extremely impressed.

    Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
    Where did you start, and end up with the damper settings? I haven't seen any base/recommended tune for the Troy.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by coolatt View Post
    Where did you start, and end up with the damper settings? I haven't seen any base/recommended tune for the Troy.
    Kept the stock settings from cane creek

    2 hsc
    7 lsc
    2 hsr
    10 lsr

    Added 4 turns of preload in a 400lb spring.

    Been meaning to tweak it to give a bit more mid travel support but haven't yet.


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  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by crankpuller View Post
    Kept the stock settings from cane creek

    2 hsc
    7 lsc
    2 hsr
    10 lsr

    Added 4 turns of preload in a 400lb spring.

    Been meaning to tweak it to give a bit more mid travel support but haven't yet.


    Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
    Just did the same, DB IL Coil 200x50. Came form a DPX2, which was quite good. This is undoubtedly a bike changer. Everything is better, climbing and descending.
    After a few testing sessions, here's where I'm at. I'm 150 lbs w/gear.

    Valt #450 spring, 1 turn
    HSC: 3.5 cw
    LSC: 10 cw
    HSR: 3 cw
    LSR: 13 cw

    I like a bit more platform, and this delivers.

  16. #16
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    I finally received my CC DBCoil IL 200x50 with 450lbs spring yesterday. I selected the spring after using the CC spring selection tool.

    I have not changed any of the CC tuning but wanted to evaluate the sag. Unsagged I measure 200mm which is fine. However whether I have 0 or 4 preload turn I only get 15-20mm sag. Which is far from 28-32%. Am I doing something wrong or did I misunderstood something to measure the sag?

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Evil Sylvain View Post
    I finally received my CC DBCoil IL 200x50 with 450lbs spring yesterday. I selected the spring after using the CC spring selection tool.

    I have not changed any of the CC tuning but wanted to evaluate the sag. Unsagged I measure 200mm which is fine. However whether I have 0 or 4 preload turn I only get 15-20mm sag. Which is far from 28-32%. Am I doing something wrong or did I misunderstood something to measure the sag?
    That 28-32% should equal 14.25-16.32mm of sag.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dogboy View Post
    That 28-32% should equal 14.25-16.32mm of sag.
    Thanks for the help. I have searched a bit more to find the following.
    https://www.fanatikbike.com/blogs/en...suspension-sag

  19. #19
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    For those using the DB Coil IL, what mounting hardware is needed for the Troy? And excuse the dumb question, but I assume if you're between two springs you would opt for the lighter weight spring and then add preload is that correct? Is there any reason to go for the more firm spring?

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tronner View Post
    For those using the DB Coil IL, what mounting hardware is needed for the Troy? And excuse the dumb question, but I assume if you're between two springs you would opt for the lighter weight spring and then add preload is that correct? Is there any reason to go for the more firm spring?
    I think stiffer is better. The coil doesn't ramp up like the air spring and I feels moves deep into it's travel very easily. Having said that I haven't tried a stiffer spring yet.

    Rider 180lb
    Spring 550lb

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tronner View Post
    For those using the DB Coil IL, what mounting hardware is needed for the Troy? And excuse the dumb question, but I assume if you're between two springs you would opt for the lighter weight spring and then add preload is that correct? Is there any reason to go for the more firm spring?
    42mm x 8mm upper
    9mm x 8mm lower

    I'd highly suggest the offset bushing in the lower, and a needle in the top. I got the offset bushing, going to order the needle bearing asap.

    Spring weight, I'd say it depends. I'd go with the stiffer rate, and run as little preload as possible, and get a stiffer platform.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by coolatt View Post
    I think stiffer is better. The coil doesn't ramp up like the air spring and I feels moves deep into it's travel very easily. Having said that I haven't tried a stiffer spring yet.

    Rider 180lb
    Spring 550lb
    Thanks! Sounds like maybe 500lbs is the way to go for me. I am probably 175 with a full backpack and 165 with just a water bottle.

  23. #23
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    Interesting, so are the offset bushing and needle bearing things you order right from them, and what do they do for you?

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    Offset bushings: https://www.offsetbushings.com
    Needle Bearings: https://www.enduroforkseals.com/prod...mm-thru-bolts/

    The offset bushings are like the "flipchip," they add a level of adjustability to head angle and BB drop. I added one to the lower (much like the new Devinci models have relocated their flipchip there) to slack out 0.5, and drop the BB about 5mm. I have a 160 fork, so that helped get my BB back to where it should be, and give me a HA of about 66*.
    The needle bearings are used in place of traditional bushings which is what you'd normally get. The bearings are crazy smooth, and provide much less resistance to movement inside the shaft. Their effect is smoothing out trail chatter further and increasing sensitivity, all for just a little more than regular bushings.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by abacall View Post
    Offset bushings: https://www.offsetbushings.com
    Needle Bearings: https://www.enduroforkseals.com/prod...mm-thru-bolts/

    The offset bushings are like the "flipchip," they add a level of adjustability to head angle and BB drop. I added one to the lower (much like the new Devinci models have relocated their flipchip there) to slack out 0.5, and drop the BB about 5mm. I have a 160 fork, so that helped get my BB back to where it should be, and give me a HA of about 66*.
    The needle bearings are used in place of traditional bushings which is what you'd normally get. The bearings are crazy smooth, and provide much less resistance to movement inside the shaft. Their effect is smoothing out trail chatter further and increasing sensitivity, all for just a little more than regular bushings.
    Got it. Thanks for the info! Last question, so for the 42X8mm replacement do you do the 41.15 or 43.74 needle bearing?

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tronner View Post
    Got it. Thanks for the info! Last question, so for the 42X8mm replacement do you do the 41.15 or 43.74 needle bearing?
    Youíll want the 41.15 needle bearing kit. I used that and left the factory bushing at the bottom. Made a huge performance difference with the factory monarch shock!

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by fltmech09 View Post
    Youíll want the 41.15 needle bearing kit. I used that and left the factory bushing at the bottom. Made a huge performance difference with the factory monarch shock!
    Thanks!!

  28. #28
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    So, needle bearings... is it worth running them top and bottom?

    I've already got a 160 fork - and I already pedal strike a TON - I'm afraid that running any more lower bottom bracket is gonna be problematic?

    Or, just do it, go more slack cause I'll love my bike all the more and run a needle bearing and an offset?

    Oh, and if so on the offset - I hear rumors they last like 4 rides - any feedback to that end?

  29. #29
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    Needle bearings are different from offset bushings. Offset bushings will slack out the HA about 0.5* and drop the bb about 7mm.
    I'm running a 160mm fork, and the offset bushing on the bottom. That gets me 66* HA, and about original BB drop.
    Running the offsets top and bottom will get you to about 65.5* and 5mm lower than original (which is already really low). I've run the bike on some seriously steep and loose stuff, and the 66* HA feels spot on balanced between tackling that and everyday trails.
    I still strike often, and I have a set of 170mm cranks ready to pop on here soon to alleviate the issue.
    Honestly, dropping the BB more is going to really annoy you if you're already bothered by strikes. You can always run 165mm cranks, but those have always felt weird to me. 170mm are fine (to me).
    As far as longevity, I've had no issues with mine. It's been about 500 hard ass miles.

  30. #30
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    Hello i have an stock monarch rt3 shock on the 2017 carbon model. Planning to christmas gift my troy since the back seems very bouncy, can't get past mid travel most of times and in high speed technical sections the rear feels like falling apart.

    Two hard questions, db air IL or db coil IL. I do not jump high or drop a lot, just 2 feet max. I do like to climb a lot and sometimes do a 5 6 hours ride mixed road and mountain. I dont want to lose climb capabilities please help me! What would you recommend?

    Either I buy the coil or air shock do I need new hardware? I heard that I can mount the air shock with the stock hardware I have idk the coil one. 42 and 9 x8 right? No angle bearing since im ok with the geo. I live in southamerica and would like to order everything I need, mailed cane creek I got the size I need

    Ty a lot in advance.

  31. #31
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    Has anyone tried swapping the debonair can for a HV can?

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