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Thread: Hendrix

  1. #1
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    Hendrix

    There have been a few people asks for reviews of the new Hendrix. So I thought I'd start this thread to provide mine. I've had it 11 days and have 20 hrs on it. So far, I love it, LOVE it, LOVE IT! I've ridden it on fast flowy trails, slow technical trails, fast technical trails and a pump track. To me, its handled it all fantastic and I couldn't be happier.

    So, what do I like? Traction without feeling like a truck. The traction allows me to make climbs and obstacles I've never made before. The traction provides great grip in the corners for better corner speed. And the traction gives more confidence on sketchy descents.

    I like the geometry of the bike. All my previous mtbs have had XC geometry. The slacker geometry gives better downhill confidence.

    I like the look of the bike and have been surprised by the number of "cool bike" compliments its received from strangers.

    The components aren't anything special, but, they all do their job with no issues.

    History: Before buying it, I demoed 29er XC and trail bikes, 27.5 XC and trail bikes, fatbikes and 27.5+ bikes. In general, I preferred the 27.5+ because they provided most of the traction of a fatbike with maneuverability similar to a non-fatbike.

    The 27.5+ bikes I demoed were the Specialized 6fattie carbon, Rocky Mountain Sherpa and Salsa Pony Rustler carbon. Of those, I liked the Pony Rustler best, followed by the Sherpa. After demoing the PR, if it'd been available, I would've bought it on the spot. However, it'll be March before my local Salsa dealer can get a PR. The Hendrix has similar geometry to the PR but with 10mm less travel. I ordered the Hendrix hoping it'd feel close enough to the PR that I wouldn't notice any big differences...the Hendrix feels every bit as good as I remember the PR feeling. I am extremely glad I did not wait until a PR was available!

    In summary, every ride on the Hendrix leaves me looking forward to the next one!

  2. #2
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    Great review! It's nice to finally hear a review of this bike from a forum user. I pick mine up tomorrow and I'll have to post my thoughts once I get my hands on mine.

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    Sweet, keep the stoke coming. And, uh, where are the pictures? We need pics! Talked to my LBS today and he's keen on getting a demo, but he's expecting no more availability until March.

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    Nice! I mail ordered one, and have since learned the frame is sent separately from the parts build kit. The frame arrived today, hopefully the rest soon! I am told they will be offering different level of build kits in the near future.

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    leanin, how close to a clydesdale are you?

    And, if you don't mind, where would you put this bike on the stiffness scale of other bikes you've ridden?

    TIA!

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    Quote Originally Posted by schnee View Post
    leanin, how close to a clydesdale are you?

    And, if you don't mind, where would you put this bike on the stiffness scale of other bikes you've ridden?

    TIA!
    I'm 5'10", 170lbs and about 10% body fat. I haven't noticed any unwanted flex. The Hendrix tracks straight and steers true. My old 26 scalpel and older 26 Specialized FSR had quite a bit of flex in hard cornering. But, they are old, lightweight XC race bikes and it wasnt enough to be a real problem. Of the 27.5+ bikes I demoed/rented, only the 6fattie carbon wallowed. I don't know if it was a characteristic of the model, the bike I rented or the setup of the rental. But, it wallowed around corners the worst of any bike Ive ridden. If the 6fattie is on your want list, please dont use my bad experience to remove it from your list since it couldve just been a problem with that particular rental.

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    Hendrix-resized.jpg

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    The boxer looks awesome! Great pups. I'm really intrigued by the Hendrix but I ride a Troy already. I fear the bikes my be too similar to keep both? If DeVinci ever decides to go full Fatty with the general specs of the Hendrix, then I'll be on board for sure.

  9. #9
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    Got it!

    Picked up my Hendrix yesterday, but we're getting some Xmas rain unfortunately. Can't wait to try this baby out!

    Side note: how do you post a picture?

  10. #10
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    Solidman we need a review asap!

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    Without Boost there is no hope.

  12. #12
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    Anybody else have any ride time on this bike yet?

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    anyone?

  14. #14
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    I have a frame on order, it'll be a while until I get it built though

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    Did a 27 mile test ride last weekend on a variety of trails... from XC to techy downhill. I haven't had this much fun on a bike in a long time. The bike climbed far better than I expected and the wide tires rolled through the rock gardens with no problem. It did get a little squirrely when gravity took over butI'm sure some of that is getting used to the bike. Placing my order this week.

  16. #16
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    Just discover this bike. And I would like very much to test this bike in 29" setup, back to back agains my Evil Following. Of course with matching spec.

  17. #17
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    looking at the numbers, the bike seems to run big?I stand 5'6''and ride a 17.5 frame or a medium in some models. . No dealers around me and really
    looking at this. I like the idea of the 120mm travel 67 HA.also wondering about pedal strikes as I ride east coast rocks and roots.

  18. #18
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    I got my frame yesterday. I was looking at the cable routing for the shifter. The area around the bottom bracket where the cable needs to attach to the chainstay seems a little odd. Can anyone get me a close up of this area.

    All the advertisement photos show the cable routed internally through the chainstay, it appears the production bikes don't have this option

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    I just received my frame yesterday and It weighs 8lbs 3oz with the shock. That is a hefty bike! I really hope it is over built and super stiff. I am going to build mine up with 29 inch wheels for the summer and fall race season and then swap over to 27.5 plus wheels next winter. I will give updates as I get mine built up.

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    smjergie, what size? hope it's xxxxl.

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    It is a large! I know the frame is heavy but weight is just a number. If it's as stiff as it appears to be. I am going to be a happy camper!

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    I was not judging the weight it self, more the 31 lbs weight of the complet bike list on Devinci site, which seem, now that I know the weight of the frame alone: low.
    My friend medium carbon Spartant RS weight 29.5# tubless, Carbone wheels and handlebar and non DH tire, the rest is almost the same spec as the Hendrix. The spartan frame weight 2# less than the hendrix. I wonder if they beef up the frame.
    This bike with 29'' wheels and a fork to take the heat is going to be a hell of a machine. (Evil Following territory ?)
    Edit: I forgot to take into account the dropper weight.

  23. #23
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    This is a replacement for my Following so that's exactly what I'm going for! I am going to run a monarch plus which may add some weight as well bet on extended descents it should Excel

  24. #24
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    I'm really itching to get mine built. Today I put the front wheel from my b+ wheelset for my fatbike in the back of the hendrix to check tire clearance. I was relieved to see 50mm rims and purgatory 3.0s have room to spare.

    I also ordered a - 1.5 angleset...

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  25. #25
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    So here is a quick update on my build. I should be done by the end of the week, I just need to finish my wheels.

    Hendrix-img_20160314_201458.jpg

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    Are you using a boost Pike ?
    Nice Porn by the way.... remove the top

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    Its actually a Boosted YARI. I wanted a Pike but could not get ahold of one so I went with a YARI which should be a tad stiffer than a Pike and if I don't like the damper i believe I can swap it with a charger damper and it will be a 130 lyric.

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by smjergie View Post
    Its actually a Boosted YARI. I wanted a Pike but could not get ahold of one so I went with a YARI which should be a tad stiffer than a Pike and if I don't like the damper i believe I can swap it with a charger damper and it will be a 130 lyric.
    I'm going yari too. If I really love the bike, I'll go with an avy cartridge later.

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  29. #29
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    Here is a quick tease of my final build!

    Hendrix-img_20160315_162928.jpg

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    Alright here she is! I can't wait to take it for a ride and see what it can do.

    Hendrix-img_20160315_174913.jpg

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    Quote Originally Posted by smjergie View Post
    Alright here she is! I can't wait to take it for a ride and see what it can do.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    What size is it?

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    No you won't make me do it, no you won't make me do it. no you won't....

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    It is a large.

  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by smjergie View Post
    It is a large.
    Thanks, I'm building an xl. I was curious how much different the weights of our builds will be

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    I'm waiting on wheels, tires and a dropper. I got my yari today and side clearance looks decent with purgatory 3.0 on 50mm carbon rims. I eyeballed it using my 150 mm hub wheel from my mutz.
    I'm using the 130mm yari and a - 1.5 angleset, in case you're wondering why it looks so slack. I like super slack trail bikes.



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    Quote Originally Posted by rollertoaster View Post
    I'm waiting on wheels, tires and a dropper. I got my yari today and side clearance looks decent with purgatory 3.0 on 50mm carbon rims. I eyeballed it using my 150 mm hub wheel from my mutz.
    I'm using the 130mm yari and a - 1.5 angleset, in case you're wondering why it looks so slack. I like super slack trail bikes.



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    Looks awesome!

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    @ rollertoaster: Do you paln to add bottomless rings, mine came stock without none already installe. I add 2 and I now use my travel wisely.

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    Quote Originally Posted by cadoretteboat View Post
    @ rollertoaster: Do you paln to add bottomless rings, mine came stock without none already installe. I add 2 and I now use my travel wisely.
    I'll put some it if I have too. I don't really plan on running this shock for too long. I'll most likely upgrade to a dvo topaz asap

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    What is your opinion on the stock rims? and do you think something wider would fit with a 2.8 tire?
    2017 Surly Ogre

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    Quote Originally Posted by sml-2727 View Post
    What is your opinion on the stock rims? and do you think something wider would fit with a 2.8 tire?
    The stock wheelset seemed descent for what they are..I just upgraded to the NOX Kitsuma rim which are 42mm and running Rocket Rons 2.8..I just prefer Shimano carrier cassettes over Sram..so I switched and went silent with the Onyx hubs..they Rawk!

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    Wheels on and ready to roll!

    Got the wheels from NOX Composities...1st go around with the carbon..the build seems perfect so far..eyeball see's no flaws..yard test seem off the hook...Kitsuma rims on Onyx polished hubs..Now if the rains ever stop I can get it on the trails!Hendrix-img_3932.jpgHendrix-img_3933.jpgHendrix-img_3928.jpg

  42. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by staz View Post
    Got the wheels from NOX Composities...1st go around with the carbon..the build seems perfect so far..eyeball see's no flaws..yard test seem off the hook...Kitsuma rims on Onyx polished hubs..Now if the rains ever stop I can get it on the trails!Click image for larger version. 

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    I would kill for a set of those hubs, not to mention rims. My wheelset is still in transit. I can not wait to ride this bike

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  43. #43
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    Devinci Hendrix RS

    Hendrix-img_6680.jpgHendrix-img_6681.jpg

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    It's been raining here all week. Finally finished the bike last night and it poured all day today. Hopefully I can give it a shakedown Sunday.



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  45. #45
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    130mm yari, suspension in low position, - 1.5 works components angleset



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    Looks good..Bummer on the weather...

  47. #47
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    I got 2 rides on the bike so far.
    I love the geometry with the angleset. The bike is huge and super long. I prefer that type of fit.
    I have had a very low amount of pedal strikes even with 175 cranks.
    My Seatpost sucks, but it temporary until I get a new one.

    My main issue with the bike is the monarch R. The thing has way too much compression dampening. I'm getting full travel at just over 30% sag with no bottomless bands installed.
    The bike feels great when you get it up to speed but the lsc sucks and makes seated riding through rocks feel like a hardtail.

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    Quote Originally Posted by rollertoaster View Post
    I got 2 rides on the bike so far.
    I love the geometry with the angleset. The bike is huge and super long. I prefer that type of fit.
    I have had a very low amount of pedal strikes even with 175 cranks.
    My Seatpost sucks, but it temporary until I get a new one.

    My main issue with the bike is the monarch R. The thing has way too much compression dampening. I'm getting full travel at just over 30% sag with no bottomless bands installed.
    The bike feels great when you get it up to speed but the lsc sucks and makes seated riding through rocks feel like a hardtail.

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    monarch R is very sensitive with air pressure adjustment. I don't remember how much psi I put into but when I stand on the bike the sag is at only 20%. I prefer a stiffer rear compression for more efficient pedaling and I don't feel it is too hard because it is working well on bumps. You can also fine tune the compression with the adjustment knob on the shock. Make sure also you have the correct tires pressure because it can be misleading.

  49. #49
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    This isn't my first b+ bike, so I know my desired tire pressures. I'm kind of a suspension snob so it figures I would not get along well with the monarch r. I'm looking into doing a low budget re-shim on the shock next week to fix my dampening complaints.

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    Quote Originally Posted by rollertoaster View Post
    This isn't my first b+ bike, so I know my desired tire pressures. I'm kind of a suspension snob so it figures I would not get along well with the monarch r. I'm looking into doing a low budget re-shim on the shock next week to fix my dampening complaints.
    I try a bunch of setups. The one that work best for me is 2 spacers at 35% sag. 75% of travel is use 75% of the time. I excepte the few buttoms out.
    I ride rocks and rock gradens a lot. up and down.
    You can try with lighter oil. I think that might solve your complaint.

  51. #51
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    I do have some 2.5wt oil but the low speed compression is definitely too firm. I'm probably going to remove a shim there.
    I'm currently not any bottoming, ideally I'd like to be able to fun a couple bottomless rings with less compression.

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    The shock on the Hendrix does not use the full shaft on the shock. The stroke for that shock is 51mm. I was stumped by this at first too and I had some work done to the shock to try to achieve full travel but instead I had a shock that rode like crap and still didn't use the full shock shaft. Whoops haha hopefully you have not started already. What I did was put a zip tie bellow the o-ring on shaft, then I let all the air out of the shock and cycled it to full travel, then I left the zip tie at full travel and reset the o-ring to determine travel usage. I hope this makes sense.

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    a debonAIR upgrade might be a solution maybe ?

  54. #54
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    I know the shock doesn't use the full shaft. I am measuring with a ruler.
    And I already have debonair. I'm just a suspension snob searching for perfection.

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    So I re-shimmed the monarch r today when I should have been working. Removed one low speed shim, and replaced one middle shim with a thinner perforated one that was laying around. Removed one shim from the rebound stack and add spacer shims where necessary to keep everything the same height. I used rs 2.5wt oil vs 3wt. I also added a ghetto bottomless ring (equivalent to 2) to compressed for the loss of support deep in the stroke.

    I won't have a ride report till next week, but around my yard and driveway seems promising. Rebound can go much faster and I can now run the adjuster near the middle where before I was almost full fast. The low speed seems to blow off easier than before when running over a curb (I had harshness issues during seated pedaling through rocks).
    So like I said no definite outcome yet, but I'm hoping this did the trick.

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    Quote Originally Posted by rollertoaster View Post
    My main issue with the bike is the monarch R. The thing has way too much compression dampening. I'm getting full travel at just over 30% sag with no bottomless bands installed.
    The bike feels great when you get it up to speed but the lsc sucks and makes seated riding through rocks feel like a hardtail.
    Not surprising. Devinci tells me they spec'd a standard "Medium / Medium" tune for the Hendrix, which is inappropriate for one of the lowest leverage linkages on the market.

    The Monarch may not be the most advanced shock on the market, but a "Low / Low" tune should work pretty well.

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    Excessive damping on the Hendrix

    Not surprising the damping feels excessive: Devinci tells me they spec'd a standard "Medium / Medium" tune for the Hendrix, which is inappropriate for one of the lowest leverage linkages on the market.

    The Monarch may not be the most advanced shock on the market, but a "Low / Low" tune should work pretty well.

  58. #58
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    I probably modded mine to about a l/l tune. The bike absolutely rips now. The suspension is pretty much dialed in. I can "play" in corners and trail features at ridiculous speeds. The bike is super stable and begs to be ridden fast (xl with a - 1.5 angleset and suspension in low position). I'm really stoked on this bike, I can't wait to ride it more!

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    Glad you're enjoying it! Haven't decided on the replacement for my current ride, but the Hendrix is on the short list. If I go this route, I'd like to try to mount a 200 x 57 shock with an external reservoir (to avoid IFP pressure issues on a low-leverage bike).

    Do you have a sense of whether the frame could handle an extra 13 mm of travel (with 2.8" tires, if tire clearance is the limiting factor)?

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    Quote Originally Posted by R-M-R View Post
    Glad you're enjoying it! Haven't decided on the replacement for my current ride, but the Hendrix is on the short list. If I go this route, I'd like to try to mount a 200 x 57 shock with an external reservoir (to avoid IFP pressure issues on a low-leverage bike).

    Do you have a sense of whether the frame could handle an extra 13 mm of travel (with 2.8" tires, if tire clearance is the limiting factor)?
    A slightly longer shock should works, but it is not required in my case, I never ran out of travel so far and I'm a heavy rider at 220 lbs. 120mm of rear travel is enough for me. I actually find the mornarch R just perfect after being adjusted properly but I don't ride enduro tracks at high speed. Just single tracks at average speed. The only clearance to be checked is you add a longer shock is between the right swing arm and the bottom bracket since you only have about 1/2''. I like the firmness of the rear shock because it does provide a good climbing ability and good power transfer. The Hendrix as an amazing geometry for an all around use; very efficient for climbing and good stability in descent.

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    I agree!

    Quote Originally Posted by Davex1 View Post
    120mm of rear travel is enough for me.
    Me too, which is why I want to try a longer shock! (It has 110 mm in stock form; the longer shock would bring it to just over 120 mm.)

    Seriously, though, thank you for the feedback

    My idea is to add a shock with longer stroke, not longer length, so the chainstay won't be any closer to the BB. i.e. There won't be any more extension, but there will be a little more compression, which is why I'm concerned about contact between the seatstay bridge and the seat-tube.

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    Quote Originally Posted by R-M-R View Post
    Me too, which is why I want to try a longer shock! (The bike has 110 mm in stock form; the longer shock would bring it to just over 120 mm.)

    Seriously, though, thank you for the feedback
    yes, specs on the web site are saying 110 but a rep from devinci told me it is 120mm. my brother has a Devinci Django RS with 120mm of rear travel and there is exactly the same distance within the upper rear triangle and the seat post wich is the travel stop. We also mesured full travel directly on the shocks on both bikes and seems very close. It looks like both bikes have about the same travel. 10mm is not a lot anyway.

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    Interesting. I exchanged messages with Devinci yesterday and they maintained it's 110 mm. There's conflicting info everywhere and I'm unsure whom to believe.

    It's true 13 mm isn't much, but the bike world routinely gets worked up over changes a lot smaller than 10%!

    I'm sure I could enjoy the bike either way, but if I already want to alter the shock due to what I suspect is excessive damping in the base tune, I might as well try to squeeze out a little extra travel while I'm at it.

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    it is possible the rep were wrong and yes it could be 110mm. in this case a 10mm longer shock should works because you should not loose too much clearance between the right swing arm and the bottom bracket. I would guess that a 10mm longer shock could translate into 1/8'' less clearance but the best way to make sure would be to measure it.

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    The rep to whom I spoke gave some incorrect information along the way, so I'm not convinced the travel info was accurate.

    I'm unclear on what you mean about clearance between the swingarm and the BB. Do you mean they could contact if the swingarm moves farther down? If so, this will not occur with a shock that has the same extended length (i.e. "eye to eye length"), but longer stroke (how far it can compress).

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    I believe that down travel (compression) is limited by the frame; the rear upper triangle will hit the seat post tube when fully compressed and up travel (full extension) is limited by the shocks. That is why I think, if you want more travel, you will need a longer shock (eye to eye lenght) and yes a longer shock will move the swing arm farther down and closer to the BB.

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    Davex1,

    I can gain more compression travel by using a shock with the same eye-to-eye and longer stroke. This is not always the case: usually, there is only one stroke available for a given eye-to-eye, but, in this case, there is a longer stroke available. I would not use a longer eye-to-eye because I don't want to raise the BB (or, as you mentioned, risk frame interference at the BB, though height is my main concern).

    The only issue is whether the rear brace will hit the seat-tube. If this brace already gets really close at full compression, then my idea won't work; if there's a little room to spare, I may be in luck.

    i.e. Don't worry, I know what I'm doing! I just need some insight into how close that brace gets ... or I need to go to my local Devinci dealer, remove the shock, and measure with calipers.

    Thanks for your concern!
    Last edited by R-M-R; 05-21-2016 at 05:20 PM. Reason: typo

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    I'm going to try a 57mm stroke shock as well, not that I think I need it. I set a Kom on a popular trail today and almost beat my current Kom on a long dh today with several mistakes.

    I have aired the stock shock down all the way and I'm fairly certain there will be no seat stay brace contact with the seat tube even in the low position. If there is just run it in high, there is no way it will hit in that setting.

    I figure if I have clearance issues I can install an offset bushing in the lower shock mounting (3mm offset). Again, if there is a clearance issue it will only be in the low position.

    As long as a 200mm overall length shock is used the static bb height and geometry will be unaffected

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    Well.... after a series of extremely unfortunate events, I have to part ways with my Hendrix . I am selling it as a frame only with the shock and headset, size large. PM me if anyone is interested.

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    Just tried a 200x57mm Cane Creek Db coil on a medium Hendrix last night. At full compression there is still about 5mm or so of clearance between the seat stay bridge and the seat tube. Rough measurements with a tape measure shows about 124mm or so of travel. That coupled with a 130mm or 140mm fork could make for a very capable bike.

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    Michael Austin,
    Thank you! That's what I was looking for!

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    Of of curiosity was this test in the low or high geometry setting?

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    I will double check but I'm pretty sure that was in the low position

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    An easier way to solve the question of fitting a longer shock would be to unbolt one end of the shock, allow the seatstay bridge to rest against the seat-tube, and measure the distance between shock mounting points. This would have to be done for both flip chip positions.

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    Wow I feel like an idiot for not thinking of that myself. Thanks r-m-r!

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    No worries. Looking forward to what you find!

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    Ive been running a 200 x 57 mm rearshock since start of May. If you have more hike-a-bike terrain, this matched with a 140mm fork is great! Im running mine in low position. Great traction, but tend to feel a bit rear-heavy on steep climbs. The 110/120 original setup is better balanced to allround trailriding. But except a higher BB, putting the rearframe in high-position, should get you about the same HT and ST degrees with my setup as in low with original suspension.

    Bike defenetly feels very plush with the 57mm stroke at the back. Doing small dropoffs and general playing around in high speeds is fun and controlled. Im also on the heavy side 240+ and I feel the M/M tune works great for me. Running about 33% sag, and rearshock is a monarch debonair rt3. Im dreaming of a DB inline though, so if someone who has this on the Hendrix could share their base-setup, it would help alot. There are no base-setups to find, and never having a full tuneable rearshock before scares me to get lost in the adjustment-jungle.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Nilsern View Post
    Ive been running a 200 x 57 mm rearshock since start of May. If you have more hike-a-bike terrain, this matched with a 140mm fork is great! Im running mine in low position. Great traction, but tend to feel a bit rear-heavy on steep climbs. The 110/120 original setup is better balanced to allround trailriding. But except a higher BB, putting the rearframe in high-position, should get you about the same HT and ST degrees with my setup as in low with original suspension.

    Bike defenetly feels very plush with the 57mm stroke at the back. Doing small dropoffs and general playing around in high speeds is fun and controlled. Im also on the heavy side 240+ and I feel the M/M tune works great for me. Running about 33% sag, and rearshock is a monarch debonair rt3. Im dreaming of a DB inline though, so if someone who has this on the Hendrix could share their base-setup, it would help alot. There are no base-setups to find, and never having a full tuneable rearshock before scares me to get lost in the adjustment-jungle.
    The Hendrix RS uses a 200mm x 51mm rear shock and I tought it doesn't use the full 51 mm travel ? I believed the rear travel was limited by the frame ?

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    Hendrix

    Quote Originally Posted by Davex1 View Post
    The Hendrix RS uses a 200mm x 51mm rear shock and I tought it doesn't use the full 51 mm travel ? I believed the rear travel was limited by the frame ?
    A Monarch 200x51 actually has a 64mm long airshaft, but is limited to use 51mm of the stroke-length.

    Last edited by Nilsern; 06-04-2016 at 09:52 PM.

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    I just got my Devinci Hendrix this week. I am so happy I went with it. I am really loving the 27.5x3.0 tires. This bike climbs so well, A long climb that I am normally out of breath on I was able to just keep going no problem. I felt I was climbing faster and so did my riding buddies. Also it rails the corners awesome and down-hills amazing. I really had a blast on this bike and am stoked I went with this over the Diamondback Catch 2 or Trek Fuel 27.5+ that I was looking at. I converted it to tubeless and there is no issue with weight. I don't know if I could be happier than I am with this purchase from MTB Garage in John's Creek Ga. Another thing is it is so comfortable to ride and is more nimble and responsive than I expected a 27.5+ to be. I did put an internally routed dropper post on it which allowed some nice stable landings.

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    Good to ear. How much sag are you using?

    Quote Originally Posted by MegaTega View Post
    .... I converted it to tubeless and there is no issue with weight....
    The Hendrix rims are not reliable at all when use tubless.

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    30% but I am messing around with it now to see what I like. I haven't had any issues with the tubeless setup yet but we will see.

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    30% turn out to be perfect for me to, plus I use 1 or 2 reducer. depend of where I ride.

    With the stock Maxxis they hold relatively good (few burps) but compare to the Spech purgatory I am riding right now. 18 psi, first burm and I'm out. so tubless is out of question with the spech.
    I now ride with regular 26" 2.2 tubes. After near 100 miles everything is good. No flat.

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    Review: Devinci Hendrix RS

    I took a Hendrix out for a couple hours and thought I'd share my observations. For reference, I:

    - prioritize descending and handling performance, but I'm not willing to accept a bike that can't pedal and climb efficiently
    - like bikes with a super long reach (think Geometron or Mondraker long) and super slack head angles, though I usually have to pick a bike with only some of these characteristics
    - have recently been on several Plus bikes, including the Scott Genius 710, Santa Cruz Hightower, and Trek Fuel EX
    - am 183 cm (6') tall and rode size Large
    - currently own a Specialized Stumpjumper Evo that's been slighly lowered and slacked out with a 160 mm Lyrik

    Before riding the Hendrix, it was the leading candidate for replacing my SJ Evo; I had high expectations. Unfortunately, the Hendrix RS was the most disappointing bike I've ever ridden. The good news is the flaws may not be inherent to the frame, so a different built may salvage the bike.

    I had hoped the larger tires would take the edge off small to medium terrain, yielding similar performance to a longer-travel bike, but with better small-bump performance. Turns out the automotive adage is true: there's no replacement for displacement! Specifically, I now believe the ratio of undamped suspension (tire casing flex) to damped suspension (fork and frame travel) is important, as a great deal of undamped suspension can overwhelm the damped suspension and lead to excessive bounce. There's certainly some complex interplay between these variables, though: I wouldn't suggest a fully rigid bike should have zero tire flex, but I would suggest a long-travel bike helps tame a potentially bouncy tire. In short, the Hendrix bounced all over the place, even with so little tire pressure that the tires collapsed when cornering.

    I also suspect large tires greatly benefit from reduced unsprung weight, allowing the damped suspension to do more work and reducing the energy into the undamped suspension ... but back to the review, and let's switch to bullet points.

    - The seat tube angle is steep, facilitating a larger size than expected. I would prefer the XL.

    - Occasional calf rubbing, but not severe.

    - Astoundingly high rolling resistance. I believe large tires can be faster than "normal" tires, so there must be something odd about the Chronicle. There were tubes in the tires and they could have been excessively thick, but doesn't seem enough to explain how slow it was.

    - Handling felt more like a fatbike than a "normal" bike, i.e. it was resistant to steering input and responsive to lean, especially at higher speeds. I find 2.8" tires exhibit only a moderate amount of this trait, yet it was pronounced on the Hendrix. Unexpected, given the modest change in tire size, but it strongly affected the handling.

    - The Reba fork was awful: harsh, even with 12 psi in the front tire, and lacked stiffness.

    - Shock damping seemed excessive, but it's more difficult to separate tire travel from suspension travel on the rear, compared to the front.

    - Severe tire bounce, especially on a new trail with that "new trail washboard" texture.

    - Poor traction for a Plus tire. I strongly dislike the Maxxis Chronicle; try the vastly superior Rekon on the front and anything with minimal rolling resistance on the rear.

    - Tire collapse became excessive when pressure was reduced in an attempt to manage bounce and increase grip. The rims should be much wider to support this tire.

    - Ran wide on many corners due to the resistance to steering input and tire deflection.

    Recommendations:

    - If in doubt, go up a size
    - Dropper seatpost
    - Tubeless
    - Narrower tires (maybe 2.6" - 2.8")
    - Wider rims, especially with a 3" tire (maybe 50 mm internal)
    - Different fork (I was impressed by the inexpensive Fox Rhythm 34 on the Trek Fuel EX 8 Plus)
    - Less damping on the shock (stock tune is Medium compression and Medium rebound, which is inappropriate for such a low-leverage bike; it needs a Low & Low tune)
    - If you're adventurous, try a 200 x 57 mm shock for a touch more travel and angled headset cups to put the front wheel farther ahead of you (I recommend the latter for every bike, so take it with a grain of salt)

  85. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by R-M-R View Post
    I took a Hendrix out for a couple hours and thought I'd share my observations. For reference, I:

    - prioritize descending and handling performance, but I'm not willing to accept a bike that can't pedal and climb efficiently
    - like bikes with a super long reach (think Geometron or Mondraker long) and super slack head angles, though I usually have to pick a bike with only some of these characteristics
    - have recently been on several Plus bikes, including the Scott Genius 710, Santa Cruz Hightower, and Trek Fuel EX
    - am 183 cm (6') tall and rode size Large
    - currently own a Specialized Stumpjumper Evo that's been slighly lowered and slacked out with a 160 mm Lyrik

    Before riding the Hendrix, it was the leading candidate for replacing my SJ Evo; I had high expectations. Unfortunately, the Hendrix RS was the most disappointing bike I've ever ridden. The good news is the flaws may not be inherent to the frame, so a different built may salvage the bike.

    I had hoped the larger tires would take the edge off small to medium terrain, yielding similar performance to a longer-travel bike, but with better small-bump performance. Turns out the automotive adage is true: there's no replacement for displacement! Specifically, I now believe the ratio of undamped suspension (tire casing flex) to damped suspension (fork and frame travel) is important, as a great deal of undamped suspension can overwhelm the damped suspension and lead to excessive bounce. There's certainly some complex interplay between these variables, though: I wouldn't suggest a fully rigid bike should have zero tire flex, but I would suggest a long-travel bike helps tame a potentially bouncy tire. In short, the Hendrix bounced all over the place, even with so little tire pressure that the tires collapsed when cornering.

    I also suspect large tires greatly benefit from reduced unsprung weight, allowing the damped suspension to do more work and reducing the energy into the undamped suspension ... but back to the review, and let's switch to bullet points.

    - The seat tube angle is steep, facilitating a larger size than expected. I would prefer the XL.

    - Occasional calf rubbing, but not severe.

    - Astoundingly high rolling resistance. I believe large tires can be faster than "normal" tires, so there must be something odd about the Chronicle. There were tubes in the tires and they could have been excessively thick, but doesn't seem enough to explain how slow it was.

    - Handling felt more like a fatbike than a "normal" bike, i.e. it was resistant to steering input and responsive to lean, especially at higher speeds. I find 2.8" tires exhibit only a moderate amount of this trait, yet it was pronounced on the Hendrix. Unexpected, given the modest change in tire size, but it strongly affected the handling.

    - The Reba fork was awful: harsh, even with 12 psi in the front tire, and lacked stiffness.

    - Shock damping seemed excessive, but it's more difficult to separate tire travel from suspension travel on the rear, compared to the front.

    - Severe tire bounce, especially on a new trail with that "new trail washboard" texture.

    - Poor traction for a Plus tire. I strongly dislike the Maxxis Chronicle; try the vastly superior Rekon on the front and anything with minimal rolling resistance on the rear.

    - Tire collapse became excessive when pressure was reduced in an attempt to manage bounce and increase grip. The rims should be much wider to support this tire.

    - Ran wide on many corners due to the resistance to steering input and tire deflection.

    Recommendations:

    - If in doubt, go up a size
    - Dropper seatpost
    - Tubeless
    - Narrower tires (maybe 2.6" - 2.8")
    - Wider rims, especially with a 3" tire (maybe 50 mm internal)
    - Different fork (I was impressed by the inexpensive Fox Rhythm 34 on the Trek Fuel EX 8 Plus)
    - Less damping on the shock (stock tune is Medium compression and Medium rebound, which is inappropriate for such a low-leverage bike; it needs a Low & Low tune)
    - If you're adventurous, try a 200 x 57 mm shock for a touch more travel and angled headset cups to put the front wheel farther ahead of you (I recommend the latter for every bike, so take it with a grain of salt)
    I agree the stock hendrix is less than Ideal. I built mine from scratch to avoid some of the issues. - 1.5 angleset for starters with a 130mm yari. The stock shock is one of the worst I've felt, I took mine apart and re-tuned it for significantly less compression and faster high speed rebound.

    I don't like low tire pressures I generally run 18f 21r with surly dirt wizards which are absolutely insane in the traction department. And I agree when in doubt size up, I chose the xl (I'm 6'2").

    With all that said, the hendrix is usually my go to bike, I often choose it over my carbon Nomad. Plus suspension will never feel like a normal full suspension bike, it's different but not necessarily worse.

    There is a chance I'll race an enduro or 2 on the hendrix this year, all depends on the course.


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    Quote Originally Posted by rollertoaster View Post
    I agree the stock hendrix is less than Ideal. I built mine from scratch to avoid some of the issues. - 1.5 angleset for starters with a 130mm yari. The stock shock is one of the worst I've felt, I took mine apart and re-tuned it for significantly less compression and faster high speed rebound.

    I don't like low tire pressures I generally run 18f 21r with surly dirt wizards which are absolutely insane in the traction department. And I agree when in doubt size up, I chose the xl (I'm 6'2").

    With all that said, the hendrix is usually my go to bike, I often choose it over my carbon Nomad. Plus suspension will never feel like a normal full suspension bike, it's different but not necessarily worse.

    There is a chance I'll race an enduro or 2 on the hendrix this year, all depends on the course.
    And there you have it: a good bike that's better to build from a frame than buy complete.

    I'm concerned about those tire pressures, though. What keeps you from going lower?

  87. #87
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    Quote Originally Posted by R-M-R View Post
    And there you have it: a good bike that's better to build from a frame than buy complete.

    I'm concerned about those tire pressures, though. What keeps you from going lower?
    2 reasons, tire squirm, and rocks.... I can't stand a squirmy rear tire on a hard corner. I still get the benefit of much more traction.
    I'm not just out putting around on my bikes, I ride hard and fast. It's hard to get a feel for what type of rider your dealing with on forums.

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    Quote Originally Posted by rollertoaster View Post
    2 reasons, tire squirm, and rocks.... I can't stand a squirmy rear tire on a hard corner. I still get the benefit of much more traction.
    I'm not just out putting around on my bikes, I ride hard and fast. It's hard to get a feel for what type of rider your dealing with on forums.
    True. When people say they run their tires at 12 psi and haven't had problems with tire squirm, it says a lot

    That's why I'm conflicted about larger tires: I love the traction and smooth rolling over rocks and roots, but the lateral collapse is frustrating - and with higher pressure, bounce becomes a problem. I was hoping super wide rims would be the solution, but the Rekon tread became so flat that I was leaning beyond the lugs and the sidewalls became so exposed that they showed a concerning level of damage after one ride.

    I'm interested to try a 29" tire in maybe 2.6" width on ~40 mm (internal) rims.

  89. #89
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    Quote Originally Posted by R-M-R View Post
    True. When people say they run their tires at 12 psi and haven't had problems with tire squirm, it says a lot

    That's why I'm conflicted about larger tires: I love the traction and smooth rolling over rocks and roots, but the lateral collapse is frustrating - and with higher pressure, bounce becomes a problem. I was hoping super wide rims would be the solution, but the Rekon tread became so flat that I was leaning beyond the lugs and the sidewalls became so exposed that they showed a concerning level of damage after one ride.

    I'm interested to try a 29" tire in maybe 2.6" width on ~40 mm (internal) rims.
    Yeah 12psi and no squirm.... I feel a completely unacceptable amount of squirm at 18 psi rear. I am currently running a dirt wizard which is a pretty tough casing compared to others. I also run 45mm inner width rims to give the sidewall some extra support.

    I broke a rear rim last week, so I'll be switching to a scraper vs carbon. I plan on possibly racing a couple eastern states cup enduro events on this bike of the course suites the bike. Pro class is some stiff competition so wish me luck!

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    This has me thinking about Procore, and I suspect it's the wrong solution: it addresses pinch flats, but - as I understand it - not lateral collapse. For the same weight as narrow, 2-ply DH tires with Procore, I suspect we could use wider tires designed for extremely wide rims (ex. tread that wraps far down the sidewalls) and redesign the bead area to prevent pinch flats (ex. a thick strip of strain rate sensitive foam).

    Anyway, we're a little off topic! Seems we agree the 3" Chronicle on 33 mm rims is a disaster.

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    I may actually try procore on my Nomad. It isn't about running less pressure for me. I'd just like to make it to the bottom on a race run with rim and tire intact.
    They would need to redesign it for use with plus wheels I think. I don't believe it could span a 45mm inner diameter wheel as it is currently designed

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    Quote Originally Posted by rollertoaster View Post
    I may actually try procore on my Nomad. It isn't about running less pressure for me. I'd just like to make it to the bottom on a race run with rim and tire intact.
    They would need to redesign it for use with plus wheels I think. I don't believe it could span a 45mm inner diameter wheel as it is currently designed
    If you do, I'll be interested to hear the results from someone who seems to share several of my ideas!

    I wasn't meaning Procore for plus tires; I was thinking about ways to improve traction and flat resistance, with Procore being one option and wider, modified tires being another. My concerns about Procore include:

    • additional mass that adds bottom-out protection without putting more rubber on the trail
    • lower pressure is recommended without adding lateral stability (as I understand it)
    • less volume in the tire before the tire hits the Procore bumper

    My guess is that it would be a better solution to use extremely wide rims (perhaps an internal width of 75% of casing width) with moderately wide tires (2.5" - 2.7"?) that are designed for this configuration with a wide enough tread and additional bottom-out prevention built into both the rim's edge and the tire's bead area.

    Things will be different when I run the world; until then, we'll just have to put up with mediocre tires and rims

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    Well I spoke with my one racer friend about procore today and it kinda scared me off. He has destroyed multiple rims with it due to it loading the rim up in an area which wasn't designed for that much pressure. I guess I'll stick with my trusty double ply tires for now

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    Just wanted to chime in and say I LOVE the Hendrix. It is by far the funnest bike I've owned.

    I did demo a Norco Torrent (liked it) and a Specialized Fattie (liked it) and the Hendrix. The Devinci geometry just felt more nimble- it is such a stable descender!

    I do think it's a tad on the heavy side (coming from a very light Hei-Hei), the components are not top of the line, and sometimes I miss the sit-and-spin granny gear on my Kona, but I have no regrets in going for the Hendrix. Like I said- it's just fun.

    Hendrix-bangtail2.jpg

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    Did you get a chance to try this bike with 29'er wheels? I'm looking at buying the Hendrix and running a 29'er wheelset for certain rides. Has anyone else on this forum setup the Hendrix with 29'er wheels? thanks

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    I have not. Not sure that I want to now after getting used to the 27.5+ tires. I hoped on my 29er and felt so much less stable - like it was a bike I had never been on.

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    Any other rear shocks being used?

    Quote Originally Posted by Nilsern View Post
    A Monarch 200x51 actually has a 64mm long airshaft, but is limited to use 51mm of the stroke-length.


    While I upgraded to the new 2017 Fox 34...would like to switch out the rear shock while I'm at it...

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    I started this thread with a glowing review of my Hendrix 7 months ago. Since then, I've ridden it on a wide variety of trails in Moab, Colorado, Arkansas and Oklahoma. I have yet to ride it on a trail where I wasn't pleased with its performance. Just wanted to give a quick update that the love shown in the first post wasn't just new bike love. Its a keeper.

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    I'm right there with you. Funny, because there are a bunch of +bikes that have come out since and most are carbon (this bike will likely be carbon for 2017). I'm guessing that I'd be happy on any of those bikes, but there's something about the wheelbase/reach-cockpit/HT angle/standover on the Hendrix that just works for me. It feels like a downhill bike in some regards.

    A couple of questions- what tires are you running? And do you use a dropper, and if so, does your dropper frame access hole have a plastic housing (mine is just an opening in the frame without any housing). Cheers...

  100. #100
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    Quote Originally Posted by crabbychapman View Post
    I'm right there with you. Funny, because there are a bunch of +bikes that have come out since and most are carbon (this bike will likely be carbon for 2017). I'm guessing that I'd be happy on any of those bikes, but there's something about the wheelbase/reach-cockpit/HT angle/standover on the Hendrix that just works for me. It feels like a downhill bike in some regards.

    A couple of questions- what tires are you running? And do you use a dropper, and if so, does your dropper frame access hole have a plastic housing (mine is just an opening in the frame without any housing). Cheers...
    Keeper for me to for the same reason quotes by Crabby. (but i will get the Carbon next years with the Pike and the new DT-Swiss plus whellset).
    I have a Raceface dropper an no housing. I ditch the Chronicle for a set of Spech Purgatory. Biiiiig improvement. I am thinking upgrading the rear schock with a Coil shock. will see next year.
    And by the way, the 2017 model will have a new name: Marshall.because of a trademark problem with -Hendrix- in some euros countries.

  101. #101
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    Quote Originally Posted by cadoretteboat View Post
    Keeper for me to for the same reason quotes by Crabby. (but i will get the Carbon next years with the Pike and the new DT-Swiss plus whellset).
    I have a Raceface dropper an no housing. I ditch the Chronicle for a set of Spech Purgatory. Biiiiig improvement. I am thinking upgrading the rear schock with a Coil shock. will see next year.
    And by the way, the 2017 model will have a new name: Marshall.because of a trademark problem with -Hendrix- in some euros countries.
    Thanks for the info. I'd been thinking about the Purg's- your vote (and the price!) puts them in my shopping cart.

    I'm curious what the 2017 bike will be priced at.

  102. #102
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    Quote Originally Posted by cadoretteboat View Post
    And by the way, the 2017 model will have a new name: Marshall.because of a trademark problem with -Hendrix- in some euros countries.
    I'd hate to say the name of the bike is a reason why I bought it but it certainly didn't hurt! I've been cranking lots of Jimi lately.

  103. #103
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    Yeah, we own a futur "piece de collection".

  104. #104
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    What kind of BB does this bike use? and will 40mm rims with 2.8 tires fit?
    2017 Surly Ogre

  105. #105
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    Bottom bracket is bb92. The bike fits 3.0 on 50mm rims with room to spare

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    Fox on both Ends..Rip's

    Oh Yeah..can now dial in compression...super smooth compared to the Monarch...this is by far the best trail bike I've owned...no need for any more rear travel...just right!Hendrix-img_4012.jpgHendrix-img_4013.jpg

  107. #107
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    Quote Originally Posted by staz View Post
    Oh Yeah..can now dial in compression...super smooth compared to the Monarch...this is by far the best trail bike I've owned...no need for any more rear travel...just right!Click image for larger version. 

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    How much travel are you running up front?

    Is that a 57mm stroke shock?

  108. #108
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    How much travel are you running up front?

    Is that a 57mm stroke shock?
    It's 120mm front and 7.875 x 2.0 rear...just right for the trails in my area.

  109. #109
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    Finished my Hendrix build this afternoon:

    Large Hendrix frame
    RS Pike 27+/29 x 140mm
    Monarch R 200 x 50, soon to be replaced with a CCInline 200 x 57.
    RF SL Cinch Cranks, 26t NW chainring
    SRAM X9 1 X 10, Wolf Tooth 40t, Spec chain guide
    Guide RSC brakes, 180/180 rotors
    Easton 150mm dropper, WTB Volt Race
    DT Swiss 350, 27.5 Velocity Dually, DT db spokes
    WTB Trail Boss 3.0, tubeless
    RF 45mm stem, Kore 720mm low riser, Spec ergon grips

    Short ride up the hill, climbs well, needs more weight forward than my Mutz, reminds me of an Atlas, but longer, lower, and slacker. Easy manuals, stable wheelies, fun bike.

    The front end is tall with a 140mm fork, so I'll probably change to a flat bar.

    I moved the pivot to the high position in anticipation of the longer stroke shock; it'll sag more than the stock shock.

    Nice bike, can't wait to get the shock set up...waiting on hardware.

    Hendrix-20160813_225328_resized.jpg
    Last edited by Nurse Ben; 08-15-2016 at 12:09 PM.

  110. #110
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    Finished my Hendrix build this afternoon:



    I moved the pivot to the high position in anticipation of the longer stroke shock; it'll sag more than the stock shock.

    Nice bike, can't wait to get the shock set up...waiting on hardware.
    What shock hardware measurements did you end up with?
    Fox was unable to get me hardware without measurements, since they did not make any OE for Devinci..so I just used what was in the Monarch..but I just got these measurements in from Devinci:
    Shock pivot width top 42.2 mm
    Shock pivot width bottom 19.0mm
    Shock bolt diameter top 8 mm
    Shock bolt diameter bottom 8 mm

  111. #111
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    So a little update on changing from the 200 x 50 Monarch R to a 200 x 57 CCInline:

    I did a temporary shock swap to get hardware measurements. The upper hardware swapped over from the Monarch to the CC, but the lower mount was not similar, so I have ordered that hardware through my buddy's shop. Once it arrives, assuming it fits, I'll post details.

    I did mount the shock and cycled it through it's full range of travel and there were no problems with canister clearance and the seat bridge had 3/8"-1/2" of clearance from the seat tube.

    Not to mention, the gold and black looks really good

    After a couple big rides over the weekend, I will probably decrease fork travel to 130, not because I don't use the travel, but it's a bit choppered out and the front end is as low as it can go. In no way is overly slack, so no fear of going up from 120mm to 130mm of travel.

    I estimated 125mm of travel with the 200 x 57mm shock, up from 110mm, nice!

    I am using the higher rear suspension setting which should help account for the additional BB drip from sag once the CC is installed.

    BTW, I flogged the Monarch without mercy and I did not find it to be all that lacking, 150psi, medium rebound, felt a little light in the travel as I'm used to 140mm, butit was a nice platform for popping off rocks and such.

    .. and yeah, those are the correct measurements.

    Quote Originally Posted by staz View Post
    What shock hardware measurements did you end up with?
    Fox was unable to get me hardware without measurements, since they did not make any OE for Devinci..so I just used what was in the Monarch..but I just got these measurements in from Devinci:
    Shock pivot width top 42.2 mm
    Shock pivot width bottom 19.0mm
    Shock bolt diameter top 8 mm
    Shock bolt diameter bottom 8 mm

  112. #112
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    So a little update on changing from the 200 x 50 Monarch R to a 200 x 57 CCInline:

    I did a temporary shock swap to get hardware measurements. The upper hardware swapped over from the Monarch to the CC, but the lower mount was not similar, so I have ordered that hardware through my buddy's shop. Once it arrives, assuming it fits, I'll post details.

    I did mount the shock and cycled it through it's full range of travel and there were no problems with canister clearance and the seat bridge had 3/8"-1/2" of clearance from the seat tube.

    Not to mention, the gold and black looks really good

    After a couple big rides over the weekend, I will probably decrease fork travel to 130, not because I don't use the travel, but it's a bit choppered out and the front end is as low as it can go. In no way is overly slack, so no fear of going up from 120mm to 130mm of travel.

    I estimated 125mm of travel with the 200 x 57mm shock, up from 110mm, nice!

    I am using the higher rear suspension setting which should help account for the additional BB drip from sag once the CC is installed.

    BTW, I flogged the Monarch without mercy and I did not find it to be all that lacking, 150psi, medium rebound, felt a little light in the travel as I'm used to 140mm, butit was a nice platform for popping off rocks and such.

    .. and yeah, those are the correct measurements.
    Hardware for the long stroke cc arrives today; fingers crossed.

    I'm ready for some more cush.

    I'll post the parts if it works, pics with clearance, bb height at max travel, etc

  113. #113
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    I'm on the fence to do the same thing, Planning to replace the fork with a pike RCT3 or Fox Float Factory 34 in 130mm and rear shock 200x57mm fox float factory DPS evol. Stock supension works ok in moderate pace but if you get really agressive you will soon see the limits. The hendrix has an amazing geometry that beg to be pushed hard but the suspension is the week point of the bike.

  114. #114
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    I ordered a dvo topaz today in 200x57. We'll see how it goes!

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    My Hendrix will arrive tomorrow. Picked up a good deal on a pike 140mm Boost fork for the hendrix. May have to set it up as a 130mm as I think the 140mm will be too much. I plan on probably a CC Inline 200x57 for the rear. Should add a little more suspension without over doing it. Looking to change to a 2.8 tire, Maxxis Rekon and a dropper post as well.

  116. #116
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    No hardware, still waiting...

    I'm running a 140mm Pike, it's a bit much esp if you run in the low position. 130mm is my plan.

    I'm looking at the Rekon 2.8 also, reminds me of an Ardent, which I love.

  117. #117
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    My Hendrix got delivered today. Didn't take long to put together and I was able to do a quick woods ride. I'm liking the big tires as I feel like you can monster truck over everything. The reba feel decent and the rear shock felt ok too. I plan on a long ride tomorrow so I'll get a better feel. The brakes are the low end Guides but they seem fine. I love the fact that it's 11 speed as well. Cost me like $400 just to upgrade to 11 speed on my other bike. Dropper post will probably be my next purchase, then maybe an upgrade from the reba.

  118. #118
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    Swapped out the rear shock last night - just happened to score a sweet deal on a DBair CS - probably overkill but what the heck. Clearances look good but will probably move the lower cable over just a bit as it gets 'close' at full compression.

    Next will be a Fox 34 but still debating the 120 or 130.....

    Picture just because

    Cheers,
    Ed

    Hendrix-img_5783.jpg

  119. #119
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    Whats the size of that shock? Is it the same as the original (7.875X2.00) or 2.25?

    I just put a 140mm pike on mine. The height is the same as the Reba, so I may just leave it as 140mm. Heading out for a ride in a bit.

    Quote Originally Posted by NitroRC Ed View Post
    Swapped out the rear shock last night - just happened to score a sweet deal on a DBair CS - probably overkill but what the heck. Clearances look good but will probably move the lower cable over just a bit as it gets 'close' at full compression.

    Next will be a Fox 34 but still debating the 120 or 130.....

    Picture just because

    Cheers,
    Ed

    Click image for larger version. 

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  120. #120
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    Its 7.87" x 2.25" (200/57) so just a bit longer - the stock is a 50. On full compression there is still 5+mm of clearance from the bridge to the seat tube.

    My goal was a bike around 120-130mm travel range and the deal i got on this made it worth getting and swapping out to better shock and fork so why not

  121. #121
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    Quote Originally Posted by jbutland View Post
    I just put a 140mm pike on mine. The height is the same as the Reba, so I may just leave it as 140mm. Heading out for a ride in a bit.
    Are you sure about this ?

    If I read correctly the axle to crown lenght of the Boost Reba RL 120mm is 531mm

    For the Boost pike 140mm it is 551mm.

  122. #122
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    Yeap same height because it's the wrong fork. This sucks. The tire fits but rubs a little. The fork is a 27.5 boost Pike but I need a 27.5+/29 Pike Boost. I got the fork cheap so should be able to resell.

    Looking for a 130mm Pike now and don't want to pay full price. Because it's a relatively new fork it's not exactly a buyers market.

    Quote Originally Posted by Davex1 View Post
    Are you sure about this ?

    If I read correctly the axle to crown lenght of the Boost Reba RL 120mm is 531mm

    For the Boost pike 140mm it is 551mm.

  123. #123
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    Quote Originally Posted by jbutland View Post
    Looking for a 130mm Pike now and don't want to pay full price. Because it's a relatively new fork it's not exactly a buyers market.
    Have you looked at the Yari.

  124. #124
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    Quote Originally Posted by NitroRC Ed View Post
    Its 7.87" x 2.25" (200/57) so just a bit longer - the stock is a 50. On full compression there is still 5+mm of clearance from the bridge to the seat tube.

    My goal was a bike around 120-130mm travel range and the deal i got on this made it worth getting and swapping out to better shock and fork so why not
    Just got my hardware, CC had to make it special. ..two weeks later

    I have a a big 1/8 for clearance, had my wife bouce the bike and it looks good.

    200 x 57 CCBI, 150psi, ~30% sag, running on the low setting for now.

    I've got a 27+/29 Pike 140mm, it doesn't feel terrible, maybe a tad choppered, and kinda slow. Got a 130 air shaft on the bench...

    Off for a rest ride, felt good in the yard, very supple on both ends

  125. #125
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    Let us know how that 140mm in front goes. I'm not sure if I should get 130mm Pike or 140mm. I believe I could move up to 140mm from the 130mm with an air sleeve or just go 140mm and go down to the 130mm if I don't like it.

    I think I sold my Reba so I gotta pick up something pretty quick.

  126. #126
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    Quote Originally Posted by jbutland View Post
    Let us know how that 140mm in front goes. I'm not sure if I should get 130mm Pike or 140mm. I believe I could move up to 140mm from the 130mm with an air sleeve or just go 140mm and go down to the 130mm if I don't like it.

    I think I sold my Reba so I gotta pick up something pretty quick.
    It really depends on what you like. The 140 decreases HTA by a degree, which is noticeable from stock, more floppy, front end pushes out on tight turns, but straight line is sweet.

    As to the CC Inline, it worked awesome right out of the box, using the neutral factory setting.

    The long stroke is the bomb, so much more cushion, no wallow, feels like it belongs. I dropped the pressure to 140psi, also dropped fork pressure to 70psi, so now it feels far more balanced.

    I might add a volume reducer to the fork, so I can run it soft for small bumps without risk of bottoming.

    No issues with clearance even when bottoming hard.

    Started with the rear in lo, but it was super slack, so I moved it to hi and that was the ticket.

    Now I'm looking for some burly 2.8 tires...

    I may drop the front to 130mm, if anything just to lower the stack. I think some folks would like a 120mm, just depends on what you ride.

  127. #127
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    As to the CC Inline, it worked awesome right out of the box, using the neutral factory setting.
    .
    very cool

    just ordered one myself in 200 57. Jenson has a good deal on them - $330 plus a $50 gift card included

    and on the Cane Creek website, they have the hardware listed for the Hendrix as
    Hardware:
    A: 42mm X 8mm - Part # .HWBY
    B: 19mm X 8mm - Part # .HWAN
    and they have online store for these items ($26.50, and $15 respectively)
    however $41 shipping to Canada ouch
    Last edited by BCsaltchucker; 08-28-2016 at 07:37 PM.

  128. #128
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    Even though DeVinci said it was not the "right thing to do", all I can say is that it rides waaay better than stock, as though it was meant to be this way.

    I am running 140psi, no volume spacers, settings are still factory neutral. No issues with bottoming or interference, ride quality is excellent, small and large bump absorption is great, no significant bouncing, no pedal bob, no brake jacking (yeah!). I really like DW, it is so much better than a single pivot.

    I still have plans to reduce the fork to 130mm, I'm on teh fence with making this change, teh only reason I wantto go through with it is the stack is a bit much and I think a little less HTA could reduce the front end push out. I could even see going down to 120mm if I was only using it for flat track, flow, but I do a lot of steep tech and I need the travel.


    Hendrix-20160827_140900_resized.jpg

    Shock at full travel with my wife sitting on the seat. No change when she bounced the bike hard. 1/8" +
    Hendrix-20160827_140156_resized.jpg

    Hendrix-20160827_170254_resized.jpg

    Also just ordered some Ranger TCS Tough 2.8's, gonna lighten this thing up so it can rip. It's a nice little trail ripper that is super adaptable.
    Last edited by Nurse Ben; 08-29-2016 at 05:08 PM.

  129. #129
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    You guys have me thinking! Sold my
    hendrix and am waiting on the new carbon marshall xt. I have a fox 34 and will sell the stock pike when it arrives. Wondering if the rear shock upgrade will help balance the 130 mm fox?
    Last edited by Baymen12; 08-29-2016 at 05:09 PM. Reason: mistake

  130. #130
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    Yeah, that's my expereince. The stock Monarch R is just not much shock, a short stroke quality shock would also be better than stock, but the longer stroke is where it's at.

    Quote Originally Posted by Baymen12 View Post
    You guys have me thinking! Sold my
    hendrix and am waiting on the new carbon marshall xt. I have a fox 34 and will sell the stock pike when it arrives. Wondering if the rear shock upgrade will help balance the 130 mm fox?

  131. #131
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    Even though DeVinci said it was not the "right thing to do", all I can say is that it rides waaay better than stock, as though it was meant to be this way.

    I am running 140psi, no volume spacers, settings are still factory neutral. No issues with bottoming or interference, ride quality is excellent, small and large bump absorption is great, no significant bouncing, no pedal bob, no brake jacking (yeah!). I really like DW, it is so much better than a single pivot.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    danm it looks good on the orange highlighted Hendrix.

    I am getting the Marshall alu and just hoping it is exactly the same shock fit as the Hendrix. Will know by a couple weeks.

    main thing sold me: the Inline's ability to enable efficient climbing. Sounds like it will also be good for having fast super gnarly descent mode, and slow trialsy slow rebound control too cause we have tons of that too (PNW, nothing really XC here where I ride). I have had a couple freeride bikes years ago (steel springs, downhill great climb horrible), but lately riding only a hard tail which I really like for rigid climbing efficiency. I need to be sold on full sus and I am giving this bike every chance to sell me on it. short chain stays big part of this bike choice too.

    very helpful and inspiring thread. thanks guys!

  132. #132
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    Quote Originally Posted by BCsaltchucker View Post
    danm it looks good on the orange highlighted Hendrix.

    I am getting the Marshall alu and just hoping it is exactly the same shock fit as the Hendrix. Will know by a couple weeks.

    main thing sold me: the Inline's ability to enable efficient climbing. Sounds like it will also be good for having fast super gnarly descent mode, and slow trialsy slow rebound control too cause we have tons of that too (PNW, nothing really XC here where I ride). I have had a couple freeride bikes years ago (steel springs, downhill great climb horrible), but lately riding only a hard tail which I really like for rigid climbing efficiency. I need to be sold on full sus and I am giving this bike every chance to sell me on it. short chain stays big part of this bike choice too.

    very helpful and inspiring thread. thanks guys!
    I'm in Wenatchee, this bike is made for Tiger, fast, long and low, low stand over for maneuverability, easy to get behind the seat, i got the post slammed and a full 150mm drop; I'd take more, maybe next bike

    Yesterday I this bike up Fourth of July trail out of Icicle Creek, then did the wild ride back down. I couldn't get all the switchbacks, but I ride everything else.

    It may not have huge travel, but it handles really well on the ground and in the air. The DW is pretty good for climbing, I didn't lock it out for sit and spin, might try it for standing, though it doesn't really bob went I get out of the saddle to spint.

    Great friggin bike!

    Where are you in the PNW?

  133. #133
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    Victoria BC

  134. #134
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    Quote Originally Posted by BCsaltchucker View Post
    Victoria BC

    Ooh, don't I wish, but they don't want us full.time or I'd be your neighbor

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    I know nothing about rear shocks. Can I get everything I need in canada? How much would it cost? Do you guys have the exact part numbers? How much is the stock shock worth if I sell it unused?

  136. #136
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    One thing I like to point out is that the stock RS Monarch R when tune L/L instead of the stock M/M is perfect and work great. You can just buy the piston head or if you are good with mechanics and have, you or your lbs, the adaptor to inflate the IFP you can do it your self. A lot of infos in the Monarch thread about the procedure.
    I did the procedure, basicaly I just removed one shim on each side (compr,rebound). Sadly gone is my idea of replacing my shock.

  137. #137
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    Quote Originally Posted by Baymen12 View Post
    I know nothing about rear shocks. Can I get everything I need in canada? How much would it cost? Do you guys have the exact part numbers? How much is the stock shock worth if I sell it unused?
    i am in canada, but just so much cheaper from US online shops. Also can buy direct from cane creek and they have intimate service quality helping you out

    I am keeping the stock shock for any time I need to have the Inline serviced, which could require sending it to HQ in the US

  138. #138
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    Quote Originally Posted by cadoretteboat View Post
    Have you looked at the Yari.
    Have you looked at the X-fusion McQueen ? :P

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    Anyone know the crank arm length? 170,175? No info off the the Devinci main site.

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    Earlier in the thread somone posted correct dimensions for the hardware.

    I reduced the fork to 130mm. first ride this morning, feels just right, nimble, good balance of climbing traction, agility, and straight line stability. I'm running in the high position to compensate for increased sag/stroke. I could see running it in the lo position.

    Also just changed tires, mounted Ranger TCS Tough 2.8, nice tires.

    Really great trail bike, no complaints, this will hold me for a season

  142. #142
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    Just got my x2.25" topaz. No way anything can contact even in the slack position. I can't wait to ride this thing with a quality shock!

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    My Hendrix is pretty much set now. Updated suspension, dropper post, and new tires. I'm running a 140mm Pike 27.5 fork that will only fit tires as big as 2.8. The fork was rubbing on the 3.0 so I ended up putting on some Maxxis Rekon 2.8s. The fork height is the same as the Reba so it actually feels really good at 140mm. Put on Cane Creek Inline 7.85 x 2.25 and so far so good. I just used the hardware off the Monarch shock and everything fit. Loving the bike on the big rocks and roots that are all over the NE. Climbs really well too. Not exactly the lightest bike, my large Hendrix is like 32.5lbs. I'll post pic when I get a chance.

  144. #144
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    I just ordered a 2017 fox float x factory 200x57 rear shock and a rs pike rct3 boost 27.5+/29" 130mm fork. will post pics later. since it's coming from the us it might take a week or two to receive it. I'm also looking for new 2.8" tires.

  145. #145
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    I did an Ibis demo with a Mojo 3, back to back with my Hendrix, switched off with three different buddies and it was a toss up which one they preferred.

    The biggest difference noticed was weight, the Ibis was carbon frame and wheels, 2.8 NN, whereas my Hendrix is all aluminum and shod with TB 3.0

    The Hendrix got the nod for stability and climbing, the Mojo3 felt quicker and more agile. I think the Hendrix with 2.8 tires would be too close to discount.

    I did like the Mojo3, future bike perhaps.

    I also have some Rekon 2.8 on order.

  146. #146
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    I actually demoed a Mojo 3 around the neighborhood as well. Sweet bike. Super light, like 27-28 pounds. Carbon wheels, carbon frame. Price was like $7500 for bike, so demo was all I was going to do.


    I only paid $2200 for my Hendrix and dropped another $1000 in for the dropper, new suspension front and rear, and tires. Weighs around 32-33lbs which is ok. 140mm Pike front fork is a 27(non-plus fork) that the 3.0 tires where rubbing. The 2.8s are fine with this fork.

    Last edited by jbutland; 09-15-2016 at 05:29 PM.

  147. #147
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    You got a nice 4000$ bike.

  148. #148
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    Hendrix-img_7080.jpg

    RS Pike RCT3 boost 27.5+/29'' 130mm
    Fox Float X Evol Factory 2016 200x57 (7.875x2.25)

    The handling has such improved that I feel like I have a new bike.

    Now just waiting for a set of nice 2.8'' tires.

    I'm looking for a combo Rekon+ 60 TPI rear and Minion DHF 60 tpi front.

  149. #149
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    Quote Originally Posted by Davex1 View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    RS Pike RCT3 boost 27.5+/29'' 130mm
    Fox Float X Evol Factory 2016 200x57 (7.875x2.25)

    The handling has such improved that I feel like I have a new bike.

    Now just waiting for a set of nice 2.8'' tires.

    I'm looking for a combo Rekon+ 60 TPI rear and Minion DHF 60 tpi front.
    Nice bike, Rekons are great tires, having a hard carver up front (Highroller) can't hurt, just depends on how you ride/what you ride. Rekon front and rear is very rideable.

    The Rekon is as good riding as the Chronicle is bad riding , not sure why the Chronicle was specd in year one, and for sure it was a mistake to spec it again. They must have been paid by Maxxis to use the Chronicle.

    If anyone is on the fence aboit getting a longer stroke shock, I say just do it! We now have folks running a DVO, Fox, RS, and CC, not one negative and we all love the extra cushion and improved ride quality. See Pinkbike for new and used shocks.

  150. #150
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    If anyone is on the fence aboit getting a longer stroke shock, I say just do it! We now have folks running a DVO, Fox, RS, and CC, not one negative and we all love the extra cushion and improved ride quality. See Pinkbike for new and used shocks.
    yes I like it with the CCI longer stroke shock over the basic monarch. Helps get the BB a bit higher, but not too high and a few mm more sag allowable. I might have more travel in back than front though (stock 120mm Pike), and angle slightly less slack, hardly noticeable. Climbing improved with the CCI and its more sophisticated climb mode. plush as ever in open for everything else. Early poster was correct - the CCI works with oem hardware, no need to buy new ones as I did. still on the stock base tune.

    def a noisier shock though. I see they are at Jenson for $300 now. I got it for a bit less

    bike is a revelation for me. changed my whole perspective and fun factor


  151. #151
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    BB doesn't get higher with the longer stroke shock, but with the same sag it will get ~10% lower, so running in the high position can offset the difference.

    Even with a 130mm fork, 2.8 tires, and the suspension set in the low position, I don't feel too low. My hta is ~66.3 deg which is pretty good.

    I didn't hate the 140mm fork setting, ~65.5 deg slack was fun, but the front end tended to push through turns.

    Great bike, Devinci needs to offer it with the longer stroke shock.

    Quote Originally Posted by BCsaltchucker View Post
    yes I like it with the CCI longer stroke shock over the basic monarch. Helps get the BB a bit higher, but not too high and a few mm more sag allowable. I might have more travel in back than front though (stock 120mm Pike), and angle slightly less slack, hardly noticeable. Climbing improved with the CCI and its more sophisticated climb mode. plush as ever in open for everything else. Early poster was correct - the CCI works with oem hardware, no need to buy new ones as I did. still on the stock base tune.

    def a noisier shock though. I see they are at Jenson for $300 now. I got it for a bit less

    bike is a revelation for me. changed my whole perspective and fun factor


  152. #152
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    ah yes cause the shock is the same length, the stroke is longer and thus the bike can go lower when compressed. makes sense. so less worry about upsetting the front end, which is still only 120mm pike. can play with volume too, but so far no need. I didn't bottom out last ride

  153. #153
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    Quote Originally Posted by BCsaltchucker View Post
    ah yes cause the shock is the same length, the stroke is longer and thus the bike can go lower when compressed. makes sense. so less worry about upsetting the front end, which is still only 120mm pike. can play with volume too, but so far no need. I didn't bottom out last ride
    I tend to run the rear shock light so I'm getting all of my travel, but not so much that I'm bottoming hard. 135-140psi for 200#.

    Can your Pike be increased to 130mm?

  154. #154
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    and I use the climbs switch a lot, which keeps the bike higher too.

    would love to increase the Pike RC to 130mm. have no idea if possible. not sure I need it here though, maybe when I go to Whistler next year

  155. #155
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    Quote Originally Posted by BCsaltchucker View Post
    and I use the climbs switch a lot, which keeps the bike higher too.

    would love to increase the Pike RC to 130mm. have no idea if possible. not sure I need it here though, maybe when I go to Whistler next year
    Most Pikes can be moved up or down with just swapping out the air sleeve. I picked up a 150mm Pike and bought the 130mm air sleeve. Just need to swap it out. The process seems pretty easy.

  156. #156
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    Quote Originally Posted by jbutland View Post
    Most Pikes can be moved up or down with just swapping out the air sleeve. I picked up a 150mm Pike and bought the 130mm air sleeve. Just need to swap it out. The process seems pretty easy.
    nice I think will do that. bump up to 130 or 140

  157. #157
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    Quote Originally Posted by BCsaltchucker View Post
    nice I think will do that. bump up to 130 or 140
    130mm the geometry is perfect at the low frame setting (about 66.9 degree head angle) and it is even better than stock. Some people complained that 140mm it is however a little bit too much and too much weigt is transfered to the rear if you do a lot of climbing. 130mm can take 6-7 feet drop easily and this is enough for most people.

  158. #158
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    I rode Stevens Pass Bike Park on the Hendrix, it wasn't ideal due to the short travel, but with a little pressure bump it was a fine time.

    Wrap that chainstay!

    Just upgraded from SRAM X9 10sp to SRAM GX 11sp with a Sunrace 11-46 and an oval chainring. GX is good stuff, as good as original X1, but 1/4 the price.

    Not much to dislike on the Hendrix, it's not a long travel bike, but it hits above it's class, all together a solid trail bike.

  159. #159
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    I rode my hendrix at Killington last weekend after spending most of the day on my Nomad 3. With a rockshox yari at 130mm and my re-tuned dvo topaz @2.25" stroke the bike is impressive.

    The rollover is definitely better than the Nomad even with much more travel, however the Nomad is much more forgiving. I am able to keep the same pace on the hendrix but it definitely beats you up a bit more. I think most of this is due to the crude damper in the yari. The topaz was pretty composed and did not bottom once. I have a dvo diamond on the Nomad and after last weekend, i have ordered one for the hendrix as well.

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  160. #160
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    Hendrix-shock-001.jpg

    An brand new L/L tune I got for free today. Good place at the good time.
    Tested for 20 miles on a, mainly rocky, slow and steep technical trails that I know very well. Short up and down with some fast rooty turns. no real jump, but a lot of steep approach 3' drops to flat features. 30% sag and 3 bands install. First impression:

    -It grips and climb way better in 2"- 4" loose rocks and obstacles.
    "Grip, roll over, mellow rebound. repeat."
    -High speed bumps, both rebound and compress, are now being taken care of seriously. the rear tire had fun doing is job.
    -Under braking, It's planted on the trail, almost no lock up rear wheel just decelarations. That was for me, the most noticeable change.
    - Going downhill, I get the impression it rides deeper in its travel (probably because of the L compression tune). but no bottom out, not even close (see picture. One is the full travel indicator) It felt kind of like a progressive unlimited travel. I will remove one band and add a tad of psi and see where my impression goes.
    A great day. freebie that take care of a need. Woohoo.

  161. #161
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    I haven't had a new mountain bike since my 1996 Trek Y-22 and have been riding my 9:zero:7 fat bike year round over the last few years. My neighbor bought a Raliegh Tokul 4130 27.5+ front suspension bike and it's nice but I'm looking for a full suspenison bike. Originally I was looking at standard 27.5's a saw the Devinci Hendrix RS on closeout sale now that it's being replaced by the Marshal. I see plenyt of suspension talk on tweaking out the Hendrix on this thread. Is this going to be a decent bike as is, without spending more cash? I figure maybe bars and stem to dial in fit but I don't want to redo the suspension to be happy. The other bike I was looking at is the Trek Fuel FS 27.5+. Any help would be appreciated!

  162. #162
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    I've had the Hendrix for several months now and have put over 500 miles on it. It has held up strong and is the most fun bike I've ever owned. I know some people are like well it needs this or that... It doesn't - it's been great right out of the box. I am super pleased with it and the way it performs.

  163. #163
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tiboy View Post
    I haven't had a new mountain bike since my 1996 Trek Y-22 and have been riding my 9:zero:7 fat bike year round over the last few years. My neighbor bought a Raliegh Tokul 4130 27.5+ front suspension bike and it's nice but I'm looking for a full suspenison bike. Originally I was looking at standard 27.5's a saw the Devinci Hendrix RS on closeout sale now that it's being replaced by the Marshal. I see plenyt of suspension talk on tweaking out the Hendrix on this thread. Is this going to be a decent bike as is, without spending more cash? I figure maybe bars and stem to dial in fit but I don't want to redo the suspension to be happy. The other bike I was looking at is the Trek Fuel FS 27.5+. Any help would be appreciated!
    The Hendrix is almost a really nice bike. All it needs to be a really nice bike is for the shock to be converted from the stock Medium compression & Medium Rebound damping to Low & Low. The Hendrix has, as far as I can tell, the lowest ratio on the market, so there's no bike that needs a Low & Low more than it.

    A good shop will be able to do this in-house. Maybe try asking for this at half price (should be around $100), but even at full price, it's well worth it and will transform the Hendrix.

    The Trek Fuel EX is an outstanding bike, so you're certainly on the right track. The EX8 Plus is my favourite in the Fuel EX family, as it has all the functional features from the top models, just slightly heavier versions thereof.

  164. #164
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    hendrix

    The bike is very good as is but with suspension upgrade it becomes an awesome trail assault bike. The marshal has been upgraded with a pike RC at the front so with the marshal you just need to replace the rear shock tune or upgrade to a better shock.

    Hendrix-img_7080.jpg

  165. #165
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    Quote Originally Posted by Davex1 View Post
    The bike is very good as is but with suspension upgrade it becomes an awesome trail assault bike. The marshal has been upgraded with a pike RC at the front so with the marshal you just need to replace the rear shock tune or upgrade to a better shock.
    Care to elaborate why you suggest to swap the Marshall rear schock, what's the tune setup on the rt3.

  166. #166
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tiboy View Post
    . I see plenyt of suspension talk on tweaking out the Hendrix on this thread. Is this going to be a decent bike as is, without spending more cash? I figure maybe bars and stem to dial in fit but I don't want to redo the suspension to be happy. The other bike I was looking at is the Trek Fuel FS 27.5+. Any help would be appreciated!
    Yes the Hendrix is excellent bike, ''Even'' with the stock suspensions.
    The Reba is good for 90% of riders, 90% of the time. The rear Monarch, I admit, could use some fine tuning (easily done by lbs in 1hr) but it's doing his the job good enough. but the rest of the built kit is awsome for that price. I guest you dont want to spend 4k on a bike.

  167. #167
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    Quote Originally Posted by cadoretteboat View Post
    Yes the Hendrix is excellent bike, ''Even'' with the stock suspensions.
    The Reba is good for 90% of riders, 90% of the time. The rear Monarch, I admit, could use some fine tuning (easily done by lbs in 1hr) but it's doing his the job good enough. but the rest of the built kit is awsome for that price. I guest you dont want to spend 4k on a bike.
    Thanks for the replies so far! Not sure what direction I'm going as this quest started with looking at a Santa Cruz 5010 or Tallboy on the Colorado Cyclist website and ended up looking at the Devinci bikes. I can get a Hendrix RS on closeout for 2250.00 so it's become a decent option to look at. The downside is there would be no possibiltiy for a demo ride. As far as rear shock tuning where would I have to send it for the tuning. I doubt CC could do this and I doubt my LBS would be able to help either. My LBS is a Specialized dealer and I considered a Stumpjumper FSR fattie6 but the standover is way to high for my 29" inseam.

  168. #168
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tiboy View Post
    Thanks for the replies so far! Not sure what direction I'm going as this quest started with looking at a Santa Cruz 5010 or Tallboy on the Colorado Cyclist website and ended up looking at the Devinci bikes. I can get a Hendrix RS on closeout for 2250.00 so it's become a decent option to look at. The downside is there would be no possibiltiy for a demo ride. As far as rear shock tuning where would I have to send it for the tuning. I doubt CC could do this and I doubt my LBS would be able to help either. My LBS is a Specialized dealer and I considered a Stumpjumper FSR fattie6 but the standover is way to high for my 29" inseam.
    Your LBS doesn't need to have ever seen a Devinci to be able to do the shock tune; if they can do damper modifications on RockShox products, then it's the same process on any RockShox shock.

  169. #169
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tiboy View Post
    I haven't had a new mountain bike since my 1996 Trek Y-22 and have been riding my 9:zero:7 fat bike year round over the last few years. My neighbor bought a Raliegh Tokul 4130 27.5+ front suspension bike and it's nice but I'm looking for a full suspenison bike. Originally I was looking at standard 27.5's a saw the Devinci Hendrix RS on closeout sale now that it's being replaced by the Marshal. I see plenyt of suspension talk on tweaking out the Hendrix on this thread. Is this going to be a decent bike as is, without spending more cash? I figure maybe bars and stem to dial in fit but I don't want to redo the suspension to be happy. The other bike I was looking at is the Trek Fuel FS 27.5+. Any help would be appreciated!
    You can pick up a new/used Hendrix for $2000 -$2400. I got mine in Sept brand new for $2200. If I had to pick 3 things you should upgrade I'd go with def add dropper post, fork (Pike 140mm or 130mm), and Cane Creek DB Inline for the rear. You can do these upgrades for about $1000 more if you look for deals.

    I've gone through a wheel set and I'm on my 3rd set of tires (Maxxis Minion 2.8s), went with 170mm cranks, add bash guard, and picked a 29 wheelset (prefer the 27.5+). The stem and bars are pretty decent as it's a short stem and the bars are nice and wide. The stock 11 drivetrain is nice as well. Love the bike and my Transition Patrol is collecting dust.

  170. #170
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    Quote Originally Posted by MegaTega View Post
    I've had the Hendrix for several months now and have put over 500 miles on it. It has held up strong and is the most fun bike I've ever owned. I know some people are like well it needs this or that... It doesn't - it's been great right out of the box. I am super pleased with it and the way it performs.
    Completely concur. Grabbed the last closeout XL on Colorado Cyclist and could not be happier. The build quality on this bike is off the charts. Attached the handlebar, put the front wheel on and had nothing left to adjust -- a perfect build right out of the box.

    There are upgrade options but I suggest riding it for a bit before making any decisions. I personally love the progressive feel of the suspension and beyond the dropper I've already installed, have very little motivation to change much else.

    The Hendrix is an awesome ride for the price!

  171. #171
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    Thanks for all the replies, still looking between a SC 5010 and the Hendrix. Of course I know they are completely different bikes, just not sure what direction I want to go at this point.

  172. #172
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    Quote Originally Posted by cadoretteboat View Post
    Care to elaborate why you suggest to swap the Marshall rear schock, what's the tune setup on the rt3.
    The standard tune is M/M, too much damping for a low leverage bike, too much rebound and too much compression makes a harsh ride and a bouncy rear tire. If you ride normally you won't notice too much but if you ride aggressively you will see that the limit is easily reached. My rear shock is now a Fox Float X Factory EVOL 200x57 and it is a fantastic shock for the Hendrix, tuned in perfectly the rear tire stick to the ground and it is much more plush and stable. I also gain about 1/2'' of travel.

  173. #173
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    I'm considering selling my Hendrix to build another full suspension fat bike. My build is listed and pictured in this thread:

    2016 Hendrix, sz Large, 130mm Pike, "overshocked" DB Inline (125mm travel), stock shock Monarch R included, DT Swiss/Dually/Rekon 2.8 wheelset, RF Turbine, Easton 150mm dropper, GX 11sp drivetrain, SRAM Guide RS.

    I can do some parts swapping, downgrade wheels to Specialized Roval/Formula/Ranger 2.8, downgrade fork to RS Lyric.

    Please, no lowballs, I'm not in a hurry, but if someone is looking, then maybe we can make a deal.

    PM for details.

  174. #174
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    Soo.. anyone still digging the Hendrix or alloy Marshall? My LBS has some Hendrix frames and I'm contemplating a frame swap on my plus hardtail. Mostly interested on how it handles on technical climbs and other gnarly but pedally stuff.

  175. #175
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    Quote Originally Posted by TimoA View Post
    Soo.. anyone still digging the Hendrix or alloy Marshall? My LBS has some Hendrix frames and I'm contemplating a frame swap on my plus hardtail. Mostly interested on how it handles on technical climbs and other gnarly but pedally stuff.
    I bought my Marshall nearly a month ago and still get a big silly grin every time I ride it. I'm continually surprised at how much better it climbs than my HT 29er did and my riding buddy says I'm descending gnarly stuff 3x faster.

  176. #176
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    Quote Originally Posted by TimoA View Post
    Soo.. anyone still digging the Hendrix or alloy Marshall? My LBS has some Hendrix frames and I'm contemplating a frame swap on my plus hardtail. Mostly interested on how it handles on technical climbs and other gnarly but pedally stuff.
    It's a nice trail bike, esp if you overshock it. A frame with the OEM shock is worth 800-1000, probably ​on the lower side since they are nearly two seasons discontinued.

    Technical climbing is good with DW, no complaints on the downs, I've ridden in the park which was a bit much for such short travel, but it was doable and fun.

    It was perfect for Angel's Staircase, in the Central Washington Cascades.

  177. #177
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    Thanks Ben! Maybe I will have a good talk with the LBS owner once the season cools off.

  178. #178
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    Hendrix

    Has anyone successfully fit one of the new DBair [IL] shocks to a Hendrix/Marshall?
    Last edited by carbine_275; 07-26-2017 at 04:40 AM.

  179. #179
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    Quote Originally Posted by carbine_275 View Post
    Has anyone successfully fit one of the new DBair [IL] shocks to a Hendrix/Marshall?
    Don't bother, that's waaay to much shock, can't imagine there's enough space.

    Get a bigger hit bike if you want to ride an IL Coil.

  180. #180
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    Don't bother, that's waaay to much shock, can't imagine there's enough space.

    Get a bigger hit bike if you want to ride an IL Coil.
    I never mentioned a coil shock, hence the DBair...
    The [IL] is the replacement for the Inline, and appears to have a larger diameter air can, which is why I asked the fit question.

  181. #181
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    Hi all!

    I'm wondering what are your Bb heights for your different setups on the Hendrix? Judging by the Devinci chart, the Bb in the LO position would be 13,9" with 29" wheels, and that's way too high for my likings. That's the only thing holding me from buying that bike. I could always correct it with an angleset (interested to do so) but how much lower would it be?

    Thanks for any info!

  182. #182
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    Older post, but anyone have insight as to why these were discontinued? With just about every big brand having a long travel plus bike in their lineup, it seems odd that Devinci doesn't.
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