Sram Force CX1 Crank or make single ring from double Crank- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Sram Force CX1 Crank or make single ring from double Crank

    Hello all,

    What is the mean difference between the Sram Force CX1 or to make one ring from my double crank with a narrow wide ring?
    I have to fit the narrow ring at the outside of the crank because I will install a 44 T.

    Is it worth to buy this new crank?

    Thanks.
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  2. #2
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    I've been running a Wolftooth 42t on the inside of my SRAM s900 crank with good results. I imagine you could run it on the outside without issue. I think the only difference between this and a 1x specific crank would be centering the chain line a little bit.

    What is the crank that you have now? If it's a SRAM, you can get a Wolftooth direct mount chainring and get the chain line of a single ring crank, but save some money.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by eness215 View Post
    I've been running a Wolftooth 42t on the inside of my SRAM s900 crank with good results. I imagine you could run it on the outside without issue. I think the only difference between this and a 1x specific crank would be centering the chain line a little bit.

    What is the crank that you have now? If it's a SRAM, you can get a Wolftooth direct mount chainring and get the chain line of a single ring crank, but save some money.
    I have campagnolo ut chorus crank but i know somebody who makes narrow wide ring for around 55 euro.
    The only issue will be the chain line with 44 - 27 (11 speed) i dont know about noises and does it worn?
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  4. #4
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    Does it matter when I install a chain ring on the out site of the spider on a double crank?
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  5. #5
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    I have a red compact 110 bcd crank and have tried just about every combination running it single w a 10 speed Red 11-28 Cassette. Here are my results (and my understanding of the differences). Just for perspective, my experiences are based almost exclusively on racing conditions in dry to mud to snow conditions.

    The crank itself is irrelevant, run whatever crank you like. The magic is in the ring and RD... you will want a Narrow Wide ring for sure.

    Combo 1: Red Crank, Absolute Black N/W ring + Force RD = Good shifting, several dropped chains in races. No bueno.
    Combo 2: Red Crank, Absolute Black N/W ring + Force RD + K-Edge Cross Chain Catcher = Good shifting, 1 dropped chain to the outside and extra time to fix it. Chain catcher bent in the process. No Bueno, even worse.
    Combo 3: Red Crank, Absolute Black N/W ring + X9 Type II Short Cage = So so shifting. Would only cover 9 gears pretty smooth and the 28 was out-of-range. ZERO chain drops and for what it was it was reliable in even the worst conditions.
    Combo 4: Red Crank, Absolute Black N/W ring + CX1 Rival 10/11 Type II RD = Good to better shifting, No chain drops. Very good set up overall.
    Combo 5: Red Crank, CX1 N/W Chain Ring + CX1 Rival 10/11 Type II RD = Same as Combo 4.

    My understanding is: The difference between my Absolute Black Narrow Wide Chain Ring and the CX 1 Chainring is that the CX1 has a slight offset that should help to center the chainline and provide the quietest most wear-friendly set up. Perhaps it does... but it made no difference in performance. I use both rings as on is 40t and the other is 42t. Hope this helped out. Tip: an aftermarket ring should be run on the INSIDE of the crank (most cranks, and definitely SRAM cranks) for the best chain line... won't look as good though. If you have the option of removing the entire spider and ring... a direct mount is a good option and I have had good results on my MTB with an X9 + North Shore Direct Drive N/W ring. I would try to find a 44 that can mount inside for a good chain line. Outside is fine... but may be noisy and wear faster, depending on the chainline
    "Racing cyclocross exposes the truth, it's the biggest reason many people do not race it"

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by strat819 View Post
    Double check this:

    I have a red compact 110 bcd crank and have tried just about every combination running it single w a 10 speed Red 11-28 Cassette. Here are my results (and my understanding of the differences).

    The crank itself is irrelevant, run whatever crank you like. The magic is in the ring and RD... you will want a Narrow Wide ring for sure.

    Combo 1: Red Crank, Absolute Black N/W ring + Force RD = Good shifting, several dropped chains in races. No bueno.
    Combo 2: Red Crank, Absolute Black N/W ring + Force RD + K-Edge Cross Chain Catcher = Good shifting, 1 dropped chain to the outside and extra time to fix it. Chain catcher bent in the process. No Bueno, even worse.
    Combo 3: Red Crank, Absolute Black N/W ring + X9 Type II Short Cage = So so shifting. Would only cover 9 gears pretty smooth and the 28 was out-of-range. ZERO chain drops and for what it was is was reliable in even the worst conditions.
    Combo 4: Red Crank, Absolute Black N/W ring + CX1 Rival 10/11 Type II RD = Good to better shifting, No chain drops. Very good set up overall.
    Combo 5: Red Crank, CX1 N/W Chain Ring + CX1 Rival 10/11 Type II RD = Same as Combo 4.

    My understanding is: The difference between my Absolute Black Narrow Wide Chain Ring and the CX 1 Chainring is that the CX1 has a slight offset that should help to center the chainline and provide the quietest most wear-friendly set up. Perhaps it does... but it made no difference in performance. I use both rings as on is 40t and the other is 42t. Hope this helped out. Tip: an aftermarket ring should be run on the INSIDE of the crank (most cranks, and definitely SRAM cranks) for the best chain line... won't look as good though. If you have the option of removing the entire spider and ring... a direct mount is a good option and I have had good results on my MTB with an X9 + North Shore Direct Drive N/W ring. I would try to find a 44 that can mount inside for a good chain line. Outside is fine... but may be noisy and wear faster, depending on the chainline

    Thanks for the great information!!

    Did you install your chain ring on the outside or inside of your spider?
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  7. #7
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    All my N/W rings are mounted to the inside. I have a Niner Air 9 geared with a direct drive and that was fine. I have Niner Air 9 Single Speed that has an double XTR crank and a Raceface N/W and the outside was not good. So, all my N/W chainrings landed on the inside of my double cranks. What crank are you converting? Ah, I see... Chorus. Go ahead and mount it outside if that's the only option. It may be a bit noisy and may wear out faster, but what the heck, give it a go! What RD?
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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by strat819 View Post
    All my N/W rings are mounted to the inside. I have a Niner Air 9 geared with a direct drive and that was fine. I have Niner Air 9 Single Speed that has an double XTR crank and a Raceface N/W and the outside was not good. So, all my N/W chainrings landed on the inside of my double cranks. What crank are you converting?
    On my FSA Gossamer I have installed a 39T N/W inside what works fine.
    On my other bike I will install a 44T N/W but I am afraid it wont fit on the inside, so I have to install on the outside. But I am afraid it will be to noisy. What do you think?

    Maybe I have to buy a Force CX1 single for this bike.
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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by prof.einstein View Post
    On my FSA Gossamer I have installed a 39T N/W inside what works fine.
    On my other bike I will install a 44T N/W but I am afraid it wont fit on the inside, so I have to install on the outside. But I am afraid it will be to noisy. What do you think?

    Maybe I have to buy a Force CX1 single for this bike.
    I'd try the ring first. If you don't have a type II RD... and plan to race CX... either get one or get a good chain catcher: Chain Keeper | Paul Component Engineering
    "Racing cyclocross exposes the truth, it's the biggest reason many people do not race it"

  10. #10
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    I have on this bike a Campa crank and I know somebody who make N/W rings, thats why I make worries if this will be worth and better to buy a new single crank.

    Still thinking what will be the best.
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  11. #11
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    I use a Campy Crank right now, but I will probably buy a crank later this year. It is because I will have more options in chain ring.
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  12. #12
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    Purpose built 1x system is the way to go IMO for chainline. My bike with all Ultegra 6800 except CX1 crank is the only bike that has ZERO drivetrain quirks (like chain dropping down a few cogs when back pedaling in lowest gear)

    The CX1 cranks are also sooo light and they're relatively cheap too.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alias530 View Post
    Purpose built 1x system is the way to go IMO for chainline. My bike with all Ultegra 6800 except CX1 crank is the only bike that has ZERO drivetrain quirks (like chain dropping down a few cogs when back pedaling in lowest gear)

    The CX1 cranks are also sooo light and they're relatively cheap too.

    I just bought the same crank. Looks good to me but still have not tried

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  14. #14
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    Just want to echo what most have said that searching out a CX1 is just if you don't have another set up to place a NW ring.I have 4 1x bikes and just got my main CX rig set up with the CX 1. The only advantage that i see is that there are some NW oval rigns available now with the bolt pattern or direct spider bolt-on that fit it that don't fit some other traditional cranks.
    Other than that ALL of my 1x's are set up with 2 or 3 ring capable cranks (some, weird, square taper...ie old ass cranks, and still work great).
    A 1x specific crank is just the industry responding to a trend (or claiming they are leading it) with more product to schlep. I've always been able to get my other 1x's to work in the same predictable no-drop performance as the CX1.

  15. #15
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    I picked up a Niner RLT 105 that has FSA gossamer 386 cranks. If I mount a race face 38T on the outside, I get a good amount of chain noise when in the 32t in the back. But I have minimal clearance between the chain stays and the ring if I mount it on the inside (1.25mm) Is this enough clearance?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Sram Force CX1 Crank or make single ring from double Crank-chainring.jpg  


  16. #16
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    Damn thats tight (nice image BTW) but don't know of any issue with it being that tight, other than you could get some nasty chain suck that will, well, suck. Also with the noise coming off yer 32 (assuming thats your biggest), you could put a 1mm spacer in there if it'll fit the clearance of your hub. Also if your 32 is not dropping then maybe stick with it. Yes the noise could indicate that it'll wear faster and perhaps under sh*&t conditions it might drop, but worst is that it'l drop to your 30 then just tap it and get it up there....not sure which is better. Others?

  17. #17
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    I ordered a Sram Force 1 crank. It was on sale and hopefully the race face ring will fit and it will mount without any issues. I rather spend a few buck and have a good chain line, then deal with chain suck tearing up my frame. I'll run the race face on the outside of the FSA cranks until the Sram arrives.

    Thanks for the help

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ducman View Post
    I picked up a Niner RLT 105 that has FSA gossamer 386 cranks. If I mount a race face 38T on the outside, I get a good amount of chain noise when in the 32t in the back. But I have minimal clearance between the chain stays and the ring if I mount it on the inside (1.25mm) Is this enough clearance?
    It depends on how stiff you frame and chainring are. I had a chainring that close to a frame once. It would rub while riding. I wouldn't feel it, and I never knew when it was happening. But I would come home and see scratch marks from the chainring on the chainstay. I assume when I stood up and really mashed the pedals there was enough flex in the chainstays and chainring that they would lightly rub. I noticed you said you got the Force 1 crankset. I suspect you will have the same problem unless you use the Force 1 chainring. It is an offset chainring that mounts on the outside. Using your current ring will likely give you the exact same problem you have with your current crank.
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  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by ljsmith View Post
    I noticed you said you got the Force 1 crankset. I suspect you will have the same problem unless you use the Force 1 chainring. It is an offset chainring that mounts on the outside. Using your current ring will likely give you the exact same problem you have with your current crank.
    Well, that would certainly be disappointing. Don't want to drop another $70 on a chain ring, just to make the bike quieter on gears I will rarely use.
    thanks for the info

  20. #20
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    i have a Force 1 crankset on my Boone disc.

    removed spider and 46T ring for an integrated Ari Bike 46T ring.
    now planned to install a same teeth oval ring from Garbaruk

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