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  1. #701
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    Thanks all for the advice on the front hub. I'm going to get some chinese carbon wheels (light bicycle) with dt swiss hubs for the Slate. A bit wider rim with a deep profile would make the bike ride even better I think.

  2. #702
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    My shop was selling the leftover 2017 Apex 1 slates with the rigid lefty for almost 50% off so I jumped on it and a couple of days later I found a lefty oliver on ebay that looked pristine for $450. It comes with the steerer tube as well. Does anyone know if I will need to swap out the headset on the rigid slate or will it be the same as the suspension slate?

  3. #703
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    Anyone tried the Cannondale Slate

    Just ordered a SAVE seatpost for my Slate and am removing my KS Lev dropper post as I find I am not using my bike for singletrack as much as I thought I would. Anyone interested in a dropper? Installed but no scratches and working perfectly
    Last edited by mtnbkr80015; 06-13-2018 at 04:58 PM.
    Enjoy the ride...

  4. #704
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    Quote Originally Posted by Seventh-777 View Post
    Where can I get an 80mm stem online for this thing? I ordered one over a week ago from BicycleBuys.com, and they just called me today to tell me that they don't actually have that stem and are sending me a refund. (Grr, won't do business with them again...)
    Try a Thompson stem, works a treat on mine:
    Grinduro, Scotland by mapledocumentdesign, on Flickr

  5. #705
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    what Thompson stem is that and what did you you use for a stem cap?

  6. #706
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    Make sure you choose the 1-1/2" steerer, not the 1-1/8" if you do go with Thompson. It appears that they only offer lengths of 45mm, 75mm, and 95mm.

  7. #707
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    Quote Originally Posted by matadorCE View Post
    what Thompson stem is that and what did you you use for a stem cap?
    Not sure on the model of the stem, itís just the regular 1-1/2Ē as mtuck1 mentioned, this is the 95mm version. Standard top-cap that came with the bike is a perfect fit.

  8. #708
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    So just got off the phone with Cannondale and for those who are curious if you have the Slate with the rigid lefty the headset bearings are not the same diameter as the ones required for Lefty Oliver. So if you happen to have the 2017 Slate Apex 1 with the rigid lefty to be able to use Oliver you need these two parts:

    HD169 bearings
    QSISEAL

  9. #709
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    just put the G Ones back on(tubeless) waiting for my SAVE seatpost and Fabric Flat Pro Carbon saddle. She will make a great 60/40 gravel/road bike. Thought I would have used it for more singletrack (thus the dropper).saw this poor girl limping with some sort of spike in her leg
    Enjoy the ride...

  10. #710
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    Anyone here selling a rigid solo lefty fork?

  11. #711
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    Some road duty, keeping up well enough with the roadies with this gearing range.

    I do want to put on more of a gravel bar, perhaps with 12-16 deg flares on drops, since will be on dirt more this summer. Anybody with experience on the degree amounts for stability?

    Anyone tried the Cannondale Slate-img_7107.jpg

  12. #712
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    Force 1 Slate with custom DT Swiss wheels (XR361 rims, 240s hubs, competition spokes, G-one tires, centerline x rotors and stock cassette). Sorry for quality of image, canít wait for daylight after receiving wheels and had a quick night ride.


  13. #713
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    Quote Originally Posted by aohammer View Post
    I do want to put on more of a gravel bar, perhaps with 12-16 deg flares on drops, since will be on dirt more this summer.
    I am really happy with Easton EA70 AX.

    https://www.eastoncycling.com/products/details/ea70-ax

  14. #714
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    Maxxis Ramblers SAVE seatpost and Fabric Flat Pro Carbon. Took off the Knards (tubed) running the Ramblers tubeless and took off the KS LEV Integra. Saved two pounds, mostly in the wheels
    Enjoy the ride...

  15. #715
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    Quick question as a first time lefty owner. I want to flip my stem. Do I just pull off the plastic top cap, then just loosen the stem bolts? No preload like traditional fork set up?

    Loving this bike though. I changed out the stock tires to G-One in the rear and WTB Byway front. Rides great.

  16. #716
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2:01 View Post
    Quick question as a first time lefty owner. I want to flip my stem. Do I just pull off the plastic top cap, then just loosen the stem bolts? No preload like traditional fork set up?

    Loving this bike though. I changed out the stock tires to G-One in the rear and WTB Byway front. Rides great.
    Yes, itís that simple. Ride on....

  17. #717
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtuck1 View Post
    I am really happy with Easton EA70 AX.


    https://www.eastoncycling.com/products/details/ea70-ax
    So, the 16 degree flare gave you nice added stability on the rough stuff?

    Iíll check into it. Thx

  18. #718
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    Quote Originally Posted by aohammer View Post
    So, the 16 degree flare gave you nice added stability on the rough stuff?

    Iíll check into it. Thx
    In my experience, not really. I had Salsa Cowchippers on my CX bike (not Slate). Having the bottoms flare out never felt right to me. I felt more natural with no or very little flare on normal bars. Plus, it drove me nuts on flat road or smooth dirt sections as I felt I couldnít get as aero. So I took them off and went with regular bars.

  19. #719
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    Cowchippers are 24 degrees and though it doesnít sound like that much more compared to the Easton with 16 degrees the difference in feel is dramatic. I definitely would not choose a bar with more than 16 degrees.

  20. #720
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtuck1 View Post
    Cowchippers are 24 degrees and though it doesnít sound like that much more compared to the Easton with 16 degrees the difference in feel is dramatic. I definitely would not choose a bar with more than 16 degrees.
    They did feel weird. I did have Cowbells before that and you are right, there was quite a bit of difference in feel. Although I really didn't care for the 12 deg flares on the Cowbells, either.

  21. #721
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    Anyone looking to convert to 700c? I ordered a set of Chinese carbon wheels and they sent me the wrong size, so now I'm stuck with a frankenset of wheels that is not what I ordered but won't take back.

  22. #722
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    What is a fair life expectancy for rear axle bearings? Whilst changing my BB bearings, I noticed that these have gone too. Less than two thousand miles.


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  23. #723
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stutto View Post
    What is a fair life expectancy for rear axle bearings? Whilst changing my BB bearings, I noticed that these have gone too. Less than two thousand miles.
    About the same distance I covered on mine before I threw the wheel away and replaced it with a Hope wheel. The Formula hubs are OEM suppliers and trying to get spares for them is like pulling teeth, my free-hub failed, a replacement was impossible to get.

  24. #724
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    I've ordered bearings, but I suspect that getting the old ones out will be a PITA.

    Already eyed up the hope XC wheel, but that would involve a new disc too - six bolt vs centrelock.


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  25. #725
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stutto View Post
    Already eyed up the hope XC wheel, but that would involve a new disc too - six bolt vs centrelock.
    A good excuse to get a Hope disc rotor at the same time.

  26. #726
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stutto View Post
    I've ordered bearings, but I suspect that getting the old ones out will be a PITA.

    Already eyed up the hope XC wheel, but that would involve a new disc too - six bolt vs centrelock.


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    I swapped rear wheels recently, too. The stock Formula's left a lot to be desired. I went the DT route. Ordered a 350 CL hub from bike24 for $140 shipped. I've had Hope before, too, and they're excellent. But I favor DT's more, as cleaning/maintenance is a lot easier. I have DT hubs from 10+ years that I've abused and still going strong.

  27. #727
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    I'm liking my WTB Resolutes tubeless, but also still have a fresh pair of Knards on another wheelset, tubed. Has anyone mounted the Knards tubeless? If so, easy or pain in the butt to mount, and do they hold tight on the beads, i.e. not lose air often?

  28. #728
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2:01 View Post
    I swapped rear wheels recently, too. The stock Formula's left a lot to be desired. I went the DT route. Ordered a 350 CL hub from bike24 for $140 shipped. I've had Hope before, too, and they're excellent. But I favor DT's more, as cleaning/maintenance is a lot easier. I have DT hubs from 10+ years that I've abused and still going strong.
    Really can't go wrong with DT hubs. I have them on almost all my bikes, even on my XC race hardtail for a few seasons.

  29. #729
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    Quote Originally Posted by aohammer View Post
    I'm liking my WTB Resolutes tubeless, but also still have a fresh pair of Knards on another wheelset, tubed. Has anyone mounted the Knards tubeless? If so, easy or pain in the butt to mount, and do they hold tight on the beads, i.e. not lose air often?
    I run the Knards tubeless and it took quite a bit of doing to get them to finally seal up. They slow leaked for a couple of weeks, but after a good bit of riding they've been solid ever since (knock on wood).

    I consider myself pretty good at setting up tubeless, and the Knards were one of the most finicky tires I've mounted. I have the post-recall Mavic rims, FWIW.
    Trail: Scalpel-Si / Sherpa / Fatboy
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  30. #730
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    I never tried my Knards tubeless based on the horror stories of others but just got some Maxxis Ramblers which are tubeless compatible and offer black sidewall and knobby(for gravel tires) tread. I have two sets of G-Ones ( TL Easy and non tubeless), Knards, and stock tires as well. Had the shop install the Knards from the get go and was happy. I donít have thorns or other puncturing objects so tubed was fine for me. They never had a cut sidewall or any problem. The G-Ones however got sidewall cuts and were a struggle to remove so trailside repairs were not an option (it literally took an hour to remove those damn things). I just wanted to go tubeless again and save some weight and the Ramblers were a good option that mimicked the Knards but were tubeless compatible. I do have to add air somewhat frequently but they ride smoother than the Knards and the G-Ones and are much lighter. Between a switch from a dropper post to a SAVE seatpost and Ramblers tubeless , I saved about two pounds off my Slate and couldnít be happier. The ride is dialed and suits me much better as I did not ride singletrack like I envisioned I would with my Slate. If you can get the Knards to seat they are a great tire, no doubt based on experience, but there are lighter smoother options. Believe me I have tried them all. I will never run G-One tires again based on their removal efforts and the Rambler is a great tire.
    Enjoy the ride...

  31. #731
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    Went ahead and ordered another WTB Resolute to replace the worn one. They seat great tubeless and handled nice, grippy and supple. I'll keep my Knards tubed on my backup wheelset, won't hassle converting them to tubeless. Used these today on a 30 miler fireroad/road combo with 3300ft total elev, no issues. Thx all.

    Anyone tried the Cannondale Slate-img_7776.jpg
    Anyone tried the Cannondale Slate-img_7780.jpg

  32. #732
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbkr80015 View Post
    The G-Ones however got sidewall cuts and were a struggle to remove so trailside repairs were not an option (it literally took an hour to remove those damn things).

    ...

    I will never run G-One tires again based on their removal efforts and the Rambler is a great tire.
    I had the same experience with the G-Ones. I liked they way the tires performed and think they're the best aesthetic option out there for the bike, but I ended up just cutting mine off of the wheels after breaking a good dozen or so tire levers trying to get them off.

    There's no way in hell I'd be able to do a trail/roadside repair on those things, I'm just lucky I got a puncture close to home and not in the middle of a century.
    Trail: Scalpel-Si / Sherpa / Fatboy
    Gravity: Nomad / Wilson
    Road: Stigmata / Slate

    "Aah the great indoors - No One Ever"

  33. #733
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    Scouring through this thread. I have the Ultegra Slate and love it......BUT....geared wayyyy to high for hilly gravel. I want to make small changes to begin.......can I do an 11-32 cassette without having to change the derailleur or jack with chain length?

    Cheers.
    Alan

  34. #734
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    Quote Originally Posted by irishal View Post
    Scouring through this thread. I have the Ultegra Slate and love it......BUT....geared wayyyy to high for hilly gravel. I want to make small changes to begin.......can I do an 11-32 cassette without having to change the derailleur or jack with chain length?

    Cheers.
    Alan
    Yes, that was one of the first 'upgrades' I did, made a difference. Did not have to change the chain nor adjust derailleur. But if your der does touch the low cog, turn in the B-limit screw just a tad.

    I have the Force 1 now with 44 x 42t, just enough for me, even on steeper hills.

  35. #735
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    Quote Originally Posted by irishal View Post
    Scouring through this thread. I have the Ultegra Slate and love it......BUT....geared wayyyy to high for hilly gravel. I want to make small changes to begin.......can I do an 11-32 cassette without having to change the derailleur or jack with chain length?

    Cheers.
    Alan
    Yup, straight swap with no issues. Makes things a lot more comfortable in the hills, for sure.
    Trail: Scalpel-Si / Sherpa / Fatboy
    Gravity: Nomad / Wilson
    Road: Stigmata / Slate

    "Aah the great indoors - No One Ever"

  36. #736
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    Quote Originally Posted by aohammer View Post
    I'm liking my WTB Resolutes tubeless, but also still have a fresh pair of Knards on another wheelset, tubed. Has anyone mounted the Knards tubeless? If so, easy or pain in the butt to mount, and do they hold tight on the beads, i.e. not lose air often?
    The Knards on the stock Mavic wheels were a nightmare to set up tubeless. I had to take it to a shop twice before one of the wheels stopped leaking air--forget about mounting them with just a floor pump or even a shot of CO2. I finally ditched them for the G-ones (yes they fit tight but they seal up well) and won't be going back. I hate tubes and on a bike like the Slate it definitely makes sense to run it tubeless.

  37. #737
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    Quote Originally Posted by irishal View Post
    Scouring through this thread. I have the Ultegra Slate and love it......BUT....geared wayyyy to high for hilly gravel. I want to make small changes to begin.......can I do an 11-32 cassette without having to change the derailleur or jack with chain length?

    Cheers.
    Alan
    Yes, no problem with the cassette change but plan on a new chain as you're adding 4 teeth to the big ring.

    The other thing I did was swap the chainring(s) to 50-34 which are relatively easy to find. At one point Cannondale was shipping 2 chainrings with high end road bikes and most guys didn't take the smaller 50-34 so some dealers had a few of them sitting around. That's how I got mine. You can find them on ebay as well.

  38. #738
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    After almost 1500 miles, the only thing I don't like about this bike is the crap engagement on the rear hub. I think I'm going to bite the bullet and have a set of new hoops spun up for it.

    Oddly enough, I have a 2018 carbon Scalpel as well and the stock rear hub engagement on that sucked too.
    Trail: Scalpel-Si / Sherpa / Fatboy
    Gravity: Nomad / Wilson
    Road: Stigmata / Slate

    "Aah the great indoors - No One Ever"

  39. #739
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    Quote Originally Posted by Seventh-777 View Post
    After almost 1500 miles, the only thing I don't like about this bike is the crap engagement on the rear hub. I think I'm going to bite the bullet and have a set of new hoops spun up for it.

    Oddly enough, I have a 2018 carbon Scalpel as well and the stock rear hub engagement on that sucked too.
    I have similar experience. If both are of the FSA variety, they suck. Iíve converted to either Stans or DT Swiss, much happier!

  40. #740
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    just re-wrapped my bars(Fizik 3mm tape)
    Enjoy the ride...

  41. #741
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    Hi, did you overcome the free hub size issue and find a replacement? I'm trying to do the same and can't find a way to put a 11 speed road Shimano cassette on a crossmax pro

  42. #742
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gritz View Post
    Hi, did you overcome the free hub size issue and find a replacement? I'm trying to do the same and can't find a way to put a 11 speed road Shimano cassette on a crossmax pro
    Not sure if this is directed toward me but I have experience with this and posted those experiences further down this thread. I used an 11 speed MTB cassette and removed one ring (and spacer) on a Crossmax wheel, which works flawlessly. I forget now which one I removed. There is another workaround that I didn't try which involves machining clearance into the back of the cassette which I am sure would work also. Ultimately that gearing was too low and I went back to the stock wheel and cassette.

    I would suggest contacting Mavic support as it has been awhile now and they may have a replacement free hub that would work by now.

  43. #743
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    Winter is on the way... Are there any decent studded options for this bike yet?
    Trail: Scalpel-Si / Sherpa / Fatboy
    Gravity: Nomad / Wilson
    Road: Stigmata / Slate

    "Aah the great indoors - No One Ever"

  44. #744
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    Recently changed wheels on my Slate and didn't pay attention that the rear brake rotor is Shimano centerlock instead of 6-bolt. Luckily TRP makes a 2-piece 6-bolt 140mm rotor similar to the shimano ice-tech rotor, since shimano only makes 6-bolt rotors 160mm and up.

  45. #745
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    Quote Originally Posted by matadorCE View Post
    Recently changed wheels on my Slate and didn't pay attention that the rear brake rotor is Shimano centerlock instead of 6-bolt. Luckily TRP makes a 2-piece 6-bolt 140mm rotor similar to the shimano ice-tech rotor, since shimano only makes 6-bolt rotors 160mm and up.
    Isn't the slate 160mm front and rear?

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  46. #746
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    Quote Originally Posted by gus6464 View Post
    Isn't the slate 160mm front and rear?

    Sent from my LGUS997 using Tapatalk
    Not my '17 105.

  47. #747
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    Anyone tried the Cannondale Slate-img_5887.jpg
    My 17' Slate CX1 Force is 160/140. I think the comparable orange and red Force models are both 160 frt/rr now.
    Last edited by 1-bar; 3 Weeks Ago at 09:13 PM.
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  48. #748
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    I've just ordered a Slate, though it isn't clear if the UK distributor actually has any in the country. All the online shops have sold out within 2 weeks of the 2019 Slate being released in the UK. Fingers crossed!

  49. #749
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    Went for a cold(sub freezing) ride this morning
    Enjoy the ride...

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    Has anyone removed the Lefty? My frame is going for a respray, to remove the strut (calling it a fork just seems wrong) is it just a matter of removing the stem, slackening the upper and lower clamps and then tapping the steerer tube from above with a rubber mallet?

  51. #751
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    YouTube has a ton of videos on this. That would be the easiest way to learn how to remove the lefty. Hope you post your re-spray when itís done. Good luck.

    Quote Originally Posted by Cheshire Cat View Post
    Has anyone removed the Lefty? My frame is going for a respray, to remove the strut (calling it a fork just seems wrong) is it just a matter of removing the stem, slackening the upper and lower clamps and then tapping the steerer tube from above with a rubber mallet?

  52. #752
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cheshire Cat View Post
    Has anyone removed the Lefty? My frame is going for a respray, to remove the strut (calling it a fork just seems wrong) is it just a matter of removing the stem, slackening the upper and lower clamps and then tapping the steerer tube from above with a rubber mallet?
    It is ridiculously easy.

    1. Remove top cap and stem
    2. Push down on steerer tube with hand
    3. Remove fork and top seal
    4. Bottom bearing will fall out and remove top bearing.

    That's it.

    There are only 3 pieces between the fork and frame. Top and bottom headset bearing and qsiseal.

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  53. #753
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    I have been using WTB Byway's since I got my slate but the clearance is hair thin at the rear chainstay and I have started training for the Belgian Waffle ride in San Diego and realized that I am not comfortable with them as the wheel has to pretty much stay perfect or I'm screwed.

    Has anyone mounted up Donnely Strada USH 650x42's on their Slate? They look like smaller Byway's basically.

    Or maybe I should be looking at the X'Plor MSO 650x42? Both look like super solid options.

  54. #754
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    My BB has started creaking. Any revelations on fixing the creak and has anyone tried the BBinfinite solution or any type of threaded BB shell w the SI crankset?
    2018 Scott Spark RC TEAM Edition
    2016 Cannondale Slate Force 1

  55. #755
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    I called BBinfinite and their sleeved BB30 bearing setup does not work with the Slate because the internally routed lines - bummer. I had to have the bearings removed and greased to solve the creaking. That seems to be the only fix for now. On a side note, I installed my Mavic Open Pro UST 700c shod w 700x28 Yksion UST tires. I dropped a solid 1.6lbs. Pretty excited to try it out...

    Anyone tried the Cannondale Slate-cannondale-slate-700c.jpg
    2018 Scott Spark RC TEAM Edition
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  56. #756
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    Has anyone done the steerer tube conversion from project321 to use 1-1/8 stems on their Slate?

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    Just got off the phone with project321 and on an XL lefty the adaptor will increase the stack height almost 2 inches on an uncut steerer. They were very nice on the phone and ordered the adaptor. Figured since Cannondale 1.5-inch stems are not cheap and now I can use whatever stem I want it's a no-brainer.

  58. #758
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    Did the project321 1-1/8 conversion. It was super easy and trickiest part was removing the old steerer.

    Just take out old steerer and replace with project321 one then just put the top collar on top of the lefty top crown. The top collar piece is compression which extends into the frame and grapples the top headset bearing.

    You get a lot of extra stack with the new steerer as well. In the pics for reference there are 36mm worth of spacers below the stem. Will need to cut it for sure.

    Granted it wasn't cheap at 90 bucks but the 1.5in stems available aren't cheap either and options are super limited.



    Sent from my LGUS997 using Tapatalk

  59. #759
    mtbr member
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    Aug 2013
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    Still on the hunt for a proper set of studded tires for this thing now that winter's on the way again... I emailed these folks:

    https://www.peterwhitecycles.com/studdedtires.php

    And they got right back to me. $116 plus shipping for a pair of 650x40 Nokian A10s with 72 studs per tire. Will be ordering up a set this weekend and will post up some pics when they're mounted.
    Last edited by Seventh-777; 5 Days Ago at 05:55 PM.
    Trail: Scalpel-Si / Sherpa / Fatboy
    Gravity: Nomad / Wilson
    Road: Stigmata / Slate

    "Aah the great indoors - No One Ever"

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