XCL assembly drawing w/ torque specs- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Listen! XCL assembly drawing w/ torque specs

    For the nerds with an XCL and a torque wrench (like me), Chumba has just posted an assembly drawing of the XCL here (PDF document). I'd been pestering Alan for weeks for the torque specs. It's nice to see they're being made available to everyone.

    You'll need to blow it up pretty big to actually read the label numbers on the diagram. No worries, they're all there.

    Turns out the suspension bearings are a very common skate bearing, #608-2RS. A replacement set can be had pretty cheaply if you do a web search for that number. Weight weenies can substitute ceramic hybrid or full ceramic bearings if they're so inclined.

    My (Taiwan) frame differs from the drawing in one interesting way. The swingarm bolt behind the chainrings is shown as left hand thread and screws into the swingarm. My bike has a nut there instead; I'm presuming the bolt on mine is right hand thread. Maybe Chumba couldn't find any stainless, left-hand-threaded, button-head bolts? This would explain the reports of this bolt backing out on some bikes. Alan, care to comment?

  2. #2
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    Thanks......that's good info.
    I was wondering if the bearings were off the shelf and if there were some lower weight options.

    Mark

  3. #3
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    Some bearing options.....go here and type in 698-2RS
    http://www.vxb.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?

    Mark

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by mad4mtnbike
    Some bearing options.....go here and type in 698-2RS
    http://www.vxb.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?

    Mark
    None of those bearings are full complement Enduro bearings like those Chumba uses and would be a BIG downgrade in quality and durability.
    "Do not touch the trim"

  5. #5
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    More good info!

    Thanx,
    Mark

  6. #6
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    Full complement Enduro bearings are $1.80 each here. It's the first item on the page. You'll need 8 of them.

  7. #7
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    Drawings and torques for EVO

    is there any drawing for EVO?

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by chucko58
    For the nerds with an XCL and a torque wrench (like me), Chumba has just posted an assembly drawing of the XCL here (PDF document). I'd been pestering Alan for weeks for the torque specs. It's nice to see they're being made available to everyone.
    Cool man, thanks for sharing the goods. Archived for my future reference.
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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by chucko58
    ...Chumba has just posted an assembly drawing of the XCL here (PDF document)....

    My (Taiwan) frame differs from the drawing in one interesting way. The swingarm bolt behind the chainrings is shown as left hand thread and screws into the swingarm. My bike has a nut there instead; I'm presuming the bolt on mine is right hand thread. Maybe Chumba couldn't find any stainless, left-hand-threaded, button-head bolts? This would explain the reports of this bolt backing out on some bikes. Alan, care to comment?
    Glad I dug back and found this post Chucko. I recently broke that exact bolt on my Taiwan-made XCL. Upon examination, it is a right-hand thread standard 1.25 pitch #8 metric bolt & nut, approximately 30mm long. I'll be calling Chumba again today, as my e-mails and phone call about this problem were not returned or provided useless & lame information.

    Any one else snap this bolt yet...or am I just the lucky one?
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  10. #10
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    I think you're just the lucky one. That looks like the rear chainstay bolt. What questions did you have? Too bad you're not local to me, as I have a few spares.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by dubjay
    I think you're just the lucky one. That looks like the rear chainstay bolt. What questions did you have? Too bad you're not local to me, as I have a few spares.
    This is the drive-side pivot bolt near the BB...on an 07 Taiwan-made XCL. I wanted to have Chumba send me a suitable replacement bolt. Unfortunately I wasn't able to speak with Alan either of the times I called, but Matt at Chumba initially told me it was a left-hand thread bolt and that they were having a tough time finding this bolt and didn't have a replacement for me and weren't sure when they would have them. The "left-hand" thing didn't strike me as right so that's when I checked it out and found out what I really needed...and dug up this thread. I called back just a bit ago and Matt talked me in circles for awhile before I convinced him of what I really needed (dispite sending him the picture via e-mail). They're sending me something in the mail, but I'll probably try the local hardware store so I don't have to spend another week without my XCL.
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  12. #12
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    Ah yes, the BB pivot bolt has a nut on the back as well - I forgot. The earlier production XCLs had a standard right-turn thread like you have, while some of the later production runs came with the left-turn bolts. I guess the confusion lies in determining which one you actually have.

  13. #13
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    I did break mine also, it is a left hand thread on mine. Matthew was amazing in solving the issue. Finding left hand threaded bolts is very difficult. They are getting more in soon, if anyone has any leads on where to find one you may want to let everyone else know. The regular thread bolts I have no problem finding at my local hardware store.

    Again, many thanks to Alan and Matthew, your CS is top notch to match the bikes.

  14. #14
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    So what were you fellas doing when the bolt broke?
    Work is the curse of the biking classes.

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    you can get left hand threaded bolts at mcmaster.com, but not metric...

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by chucko58
    So what were you fellas doing when the bolt broke?
    Yeah, can you tell us how it happened?

  17. #17
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    i havent broken one but mine (right hand thread, drive side pivot behind bb shell) backed out four times in the space of 2 long rides... 2 times to the point where it backed all the into my granny gear, seizing up the entire drivetrain. the first time was a major wtf?!?!? on the trail. in fact, the 2nd ride this happened on was after i cleaned the bolt and chainstay threads and loctited it in.

    problem was, i nearly stripped the little bastard screwing around with it so much on the trail. barely got it out back in the garage and matthew has since sent me a longer bolt with a nylon insert nut. i actually thread the bolt beyond the chainstay and into that little cavity in the swing arm where i got the nut on there. which is no easy task... take a look at that "cavity" and tell me how you would get any type of wrench on that nut!?!?!

    that fix seemed to work but the head on that bolt (much larger than the original) is in major conflict with the granny cr. so , i had to add some bb spacers to clear it (along with the e-type fd, mind you) which has presented some big problems as far as getting the proper torque on the cranks b/c the non drive crank arm doesnt seat fully on the splines due to the spacers!?!?!?

    this thread on the drivetrain forum discussed this whole thing...

    http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=416868

    hopefully, chumba comes up with some bolts to properly address this issue as i dont think im gonna ride again on my set-up again for fear that im gonna destroy the cranks and/or bb because of those spacers.

    btw, this is an 07, us built large frame.

    any additional thoughts would be much appreciated...
    Last edited by happy_ending; 05-30-2008 at 07:58 AM.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by chucko58
    So what were you fellas doing when the bolt broke?
    Just simple trail riding, nothing fancy. I weigh about 180lbs with gear, agressive XC, never done a drop bigger than 3' in my life.

    I hit the local hardware store yesterday and found a perfect match for my setup - #8 metric, 1.25 pitch, 30mm length stainless steel (w/ nut) for the drive side...I also replaced the non-drive side opposite bolt, same specs but just 25mm long (I was a bit worried about the stress that bolt might have taken when the drive-side one broke so I figured that was worth replacing while I was at it). $2.50 and some loctite and I was ready to ride again.

    Headed out to my local forest trails last night for some riding and to try everything out. Hammering up a big climb 15 miles into my 20 mile ride...
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  19. #19
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  20. #20
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    Dead link

    Link is bad, can someone post it if you downloaded the pdf file?

  21. #21
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    Here's that PDF attached.
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  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by dubjay
    Here's that PDF attached.
    Thanks Jay!

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trigger
    Headed out to my local forest trails last night for some riding and to try everything out. Hammering up a big climb 15 miles into my 20 mile ride...
    Let me just say that Alan is the King of Customer Service. An e-mail and a phone call promptly returned, detailed explination and shipping a replacement out the door immediately. Reason #1425 to buy a Chumba. Sorry to slightly derail this thread...
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  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trigger
    Let me just say that Alan is the King of Customer Service. An e-mail and a phone call promptly returned, detailed explination and shipping a replacement out the door immediately. Reason #1425 to buy a Chumba. Sorry to slightly derail this thread...
    Wow, sorry to hear about your bike Trigger.

    The boys were razzing me pretty bad yesterday about mine potentially breaking out there, but I said that I have confidence that Chumba will make right by it. No worries here. Hope your parts get there before your trip.

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