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  1. #501
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    New question here.

    Hi! Hope I'm not hijacking the thread. I'm looking for a frameset. Wolverine ticks all the boxes, but the reach is a bit long for me (long legs, short torso). Has anybody found a close alternative to the Wolverine?

    More on what I'm looking for here.

  2. #502
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    Looked at your post with your ideal bike requirements... Wolverine comes pretty close. I normally ride a 56, and went with a 54 based on top tube length for - happy I did because I'm using a 70mm stem. Maybe look at a 58 with a short stem? I was a little skeptical at first, and I even flamed SOMA a little here and there for strange geo, but now that I am used to it, I actually really like it.

    Mine seems to handle better with a shorter stem anyway, BTW.

    Quote Originally Posted by not_hip View Post
    Hi! Hope I'm not hijacking the thread. I'm looking for a frameset. Wolverine ticks all the boxes, but the reach is a bit long for me (long legs, short torso). Has anybody found a close alternative to the Wolverine?

    More on what I'm looking for here.
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  3. #503
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    Also, for what it's worth, I measured my frame's stack and reach, and they were both longer than the site said they should be... A 54 is spec'd as 395/566 reach/stack, but mine measured 408/573. Granted, I am pretty unsophisticated without fancy tools for this, but I think it's weird that I came up with that much of a difference -especially since I have measured other bikes with given geo and come within a mm or 2 of published specs.
    Quote Originally Posted by SpeedyStein View Post
    Looked at your post with your ideal bike requirements... Wolverine comes pretty close. I normally ride a 56, and went with a 54 based on top tube length for - happy I did because I'm using a 70mm stem. Maybe look at a 58 with a short stem? I was a little skeptical at first, and I even flamed SOMA a little here and there for strange geo, but now that I am used to it, I actually really like it.

    Mine seems to handle better with a shorter stem anyway, BTW.



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  4. #504
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    Quote Originally Posted by SpeedyStein View Post
    Also, for what it's worth, I measured my frame's stack and reach, and they were both longer than the site said they should be... A 54 is spec'd as 395/566 reach/stack, but mine measured 408/573. Granted, I am pretty unsophisticated without fancy tools for this, but I think it's weird that I came up with that much of a difference -especially since I have measured other bikes with given geo and come within a mm or 2 of published specs.
    Well, that makes things even more complicated. If only I could test ride these things. No dealers in my country though.

    Quote Originally Posted by SpeedyStein View Post
    Looked at your post with your ideal bike requirements... Wolverine comes pretty close. I normally ride a 56, and went with a 54 based on top tube length for - happy I did because I'm using a 70mm stem. Maybe look at a 58 with a short stem? I was a little skeptical at first, and I even flamed SOMA a little here and there for strange geo, but now that I am used to it, I actually really like it.
    I run a 80 mm 35 degree stem on my bike that has a 390 mm reach.

    The Soma Saga actually looks quite good. Too bad there is no size between the 61 cm (which has a 585 mm seat post) and the 66 cm (which has a 645 mm seat post). Reach on the 66 cm model is even lower than the 62 cm Wolverine (403 mm for the Saga vs 412 mm for the Wolverine). Not quite sure I'm up to the 89.5 cm (with 45 mm tires) standover height though. Inseam is between 91.5 cm and 93.5 cm depending on how far up I press the the book. I'm 187 cm tall. If frames are actually larger than specs on their site, I'm toast.

    The 58 cm Wolverine will put me in the same seatpost in the sky situation as I am now.

    Perhaps I should just copy the Wolverine geo, shorten the top tube and send the thing over to Waltly.

  5. #505
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    Quote Originally Posted by not_hip View Post
    Well, that makes things even more complicated. If only I could test ride these things. No dealers in my country though.

    I run a 80 mm 35 degree stem on my bike that has a 390 mm reach.

    The Soma Saga actually looks quite good. Too bad there is no size between the 61 cm (which has a 585 mm seat post) and the 66 cm (which has a 645 mm seat post). Reach on the 66 cm model is even lower than the 62 cm Wolverine (403 mm for the Saga vs 412 mm for the Wolverine). Not quite sure I'm up to the 89.5 cm (with 45 mm tires) standover height though. Inseam is between 91.5 cm and 93.5 cm depending on how far up I press the the book. I'm 187 cm tall. If frames are actually larger than specs on their site, I'm toast.

    The 58 cm Wolverine will put me in the same seatpost in the sky situation as I am now.

    Perhaps I should just copy the Wolverine geo, shorten the top tube and send the thing over to Waltly.
    One thing to keep in mind too is head tube length - the Wolverine has a pretty short headtube. They really are long and low bikes. Maybe check out the Double Cross? The new model can take 45mm tires, probably without fenders though. The reach is a fair bit shorter, and the headtube is a bit longer than the Wolverine. Might actually be almost exactly what you are after.

    I've been thinking about building up a Double Cross myself, as a fast all-roader, using WTB Resolutes in 700x42, then committing my Wolverine to commuter duty. Unfortunately, cash is a little low for new bikes at the moment, so it will have to wait.

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  6. #506
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    two questions for you guys.

    Does anyone know if the 15TA fork holes as large of a tire as the QR fork? I'd like to run a large volume mtb tire for some trips.

    Also, anyone running a flat bar/ jones bar? How much longer of a stem did you need to get the right fit?

    Thanks!

  7. #507
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    I have a Maxxis 2.2 on the front/rear. Rear is maxed out but I think I could fit a 2.4 up front

  8. #508
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    with which fork!?

  9. #509
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    Wolverine thru axle fork

  10. #510
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    Quote Originally Posted by bkinsman View Post
    Wolverine thru axle fork
    Sweet!

    I'm torn on the functionality of thru-axle for the aesthetics of the crown fork.

  11. #511
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    Im on mobile so canít post a pic but hereís mine on instagram. Got a rando rack and tara tubus connected to the mid fork eyelet https://instagram.com/p/BjoG58qBPVJ/

  12. #512
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    Quote Originally Posted by blantonator View Post
    Sweet!

    I'm torn on the functionality of thru-axle for the aesthetics of the crown fork.
    I went for the lugged crown fork for aesthetics. I have a 2.1" Racing Ralph on a Stans Arch MK3 rim. It doesn't rub but I wouldn't put a bigger tire in there.
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  13. #513
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    In the description of the through axle fork, Soma says the tire clearance is tighter than the lugged fork.


    Quote Originally Posted by blantonator View Post
    two questions for you guys.

    Does anyone know if the 15TA fork holes as large of a tire as the QR fork? I'd like to run a large volume mtb tire for some trips.

    Also, anyone running a flat bar/ jones bar? How much longer of a stem did you need to get the right fit?

    Thanks!
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  14. #514
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    What tires are those?
    Quote Originally Posted by bkinsman View Post
    Im on mobile so canít post a pic but hereís mine on instagram. Got a rando rack and tara tubus connected to the mid fork eyelet https://instagram.com/p/BjoG58qBPVJ/
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  15. #515
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    Quote Originally Posted by Psycho1 View Post
    What tires are those?

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    Those look like Ardent Race. Great all around tire, from what I hear.

    If you are trying to decide thru-axle vs qr fork, just go thru axle. It wasn't available when I got my bike, and I have always wished it was, and now I am trying to justify buying the thru axle fork, thru axle sliders, and a new wheelset vs just buying a whole new bike.

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  16. #516
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    Quote Originally Posted by blantonator View Post
    two questions for you guys.

    Does anyone know if the 15TA fork holes as large of a tire as the QR fork? I'd like to run a large volume mtb tire for some trips.

    Also, anyone running a flat bar/ jones bar? How much longer of a stem did you need to get the right fit?

    Thanks!
    I ran a flat bar for a little while - I used a 100mm stem, and use 70mm with my current drop bars. It was ok, but not ideal, a 110 would have probably been better for me. Sometimes you just gotta try a couple though, and find what works for you.

    The bigger issue was the large tires I had on then - 29x2.2 made the bike feel super sluggish with the sliders all the way back.

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  17. #517
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    As of yet, my V2 hasn't cracked yet (knocks on wood):


  18. #518
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    Mine did yesterday

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  19. #519
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    Cool. Time for a warranty. The V.3 resolves this and a lot of other issues the early Wolverines have. I was really disappointed in my V1. It was not the quality I had come to expect.

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  20. #520
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    Quote Originally Posted by Agwan View Post
    Cool. Time for a warranty. The V.3 resolves this and a lot of other issues the early Wolverines have. I was really disappointed in my V1. It was not the quality I had come to expect.

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    I've really loved mine. Really bummed. What other improvements were made?. I just wish they had orange still.

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  21. #521
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    Better paint. E coated internally. Tighter tolerances at the bb, seat and headtubes.

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  22. #522
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    Just the e coat is a worthy upgrade. Wow

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  23. #523
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    I acquired a 58 cm clincher version of the Wolverine a few months ago and click off 35mi round trip work commutes on it a couple times a week (with some MTB trail options can C&O canal tow path gravel along the way).

    Running tubeless 1.8" Slant 6 pros at the moment and plan on going with Thunder Burt 2.0's to eke out a bit move volume/cush and lower rolling resistance. Is anyone running ~2.1" tires or is that pushing one's luck? I have a few Niner branded Racing Ralph 2.25's that are really 2.1's and thought of maybe trying them. (I run Racing Ralph 2.25's and 2.35/2.4's on a herd of different 29er's with great success).

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  24. #524
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    Anyone's frame crack out of warranty? Are you just SOL at that point? My v1 is still doing okay, but I've only got a month of warranty left. Makes me a little nervous.

  25. #525
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    Quote Originally Posted by formula4speed View Post
    Anyone's frame crack out of warranty? Are you just SOL at that point? My v1 is still doing okay, but I've only got a month of warranty left. Makes me a little nervous.
    Jim Porter has repeatedly stated that he will warranty this specific issue beyond the standard warranty period. Just reach out to him on Facebook. It seems to have a faster turn around than the Soma email.

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  26. #526
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    Cool, that makes me feel a bit better. I'm cautiously optimistic I'll be okay, I'm pretty light at 150 pounds and I don't really hit singletrack with my Wolverine, only pavement and gravel. I do really like the ride quality so I hope it holds up for me.

  27. #527
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    I've been contemplating a Wolverine build. This has been a very useful thread. I haven't built a bike since I was racing BMX as a kid. This is definitely more complicated!

    My goal for this build is a comfortable and fun road bike, something I can ride in the city on crappy streets, on paved trails, in flat areas and in the mountains. I don't plan to take it off road, I have a mountain bike for that. I don't even know that the Soma Wolverine is my best steel frame option, but it sparked my interest.

    I've been investigating both a 700c and 650b build.

    650b: The availability of viable tires seems limited. It seems like everyone is running one of the two WTB 650b tires. These do seem like very good tires, though, large, tubeless compatible and 535g. Would be nice to have more options though, that are at least the min 47 width Soma specifies. Anyone have interesting options here?

    I've found a few wheel options, each with their own limitation (either axle, cassette speeds, disc, weight or cost). Trying to find wheels has definitely been an exercise in learning, refinement, iteration and prioritization.

    700c: Some better wheel options here, light enough, not too expensive, gearing options ... There's good reason to favor 700c due to a wider range of available options.

    I have been surprised at the weight of larger 700c tires I've found. I think I'm looking at the wrong stuff ... but the weight seems to be in the 800-1000g range. But maybe I'm looking at too large a size (~45c). My current bike is 700x47 (Conti Comfort Contact) and those tires are pretty heavy. I'll continue looking.

    Either way, I've been all over the map on drivetrain (Tiagra, 105, Rival?), brakes (hydraulic, TRP Spyre?) and various components (no idea how to choose a stem, drop bars, seat post).

    It's been pretty interesting (re-)learning about building a bike.

  28. #528
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    Quote Originally Posted by objectuser View Post
    I've been contemplating a Wolverine build. This has been a very useful thread. I haven't built a bike since I was racing BMX as a kid. This is definitely more complicated!

    My goal for this build is a comfortable and fun road bike, something I can ride in the city on crappy streets, on paved trails, in flat areas and in the mountains. I don't plan to take it off road, I have a mountain bike for that. I don't even know that the Soma Wolverine is my best steel frame option, but it sparked my interest.

    I've been investigating both a 700c and 650b build.

    650b: The availability of viable tires seems limited. It seems like everyone is running one of the two WTB 650b tires. These do seem like very good tires, though, large, tubeless compatible and 535g. Would be nice to have more options though, that are at least the min 47 width Soma specifies. Anyone have interesting options here?

    I've found a few wheel options, each with their own limitation (either axle, cassette speeds, disc, weight or cost). Trying to find wheels has definitely been an exercise in learning, refinement, iteration and prioritization.

    700c: Some better wheel options here, light enough, not too expensive, gearing options ... There's good reason to favor 700c due to a wider range of available options.

    I have been surprised at the weight of larger 700c tires I've found. I think I'm looking at the wrong stuff ... but the weight seems to be in the 800-1000g range. But maybe I'm looking at too large a size (~45c). My current bike is 700x47 (Conti Comfort Contact) and those tires are pretty heavy. I'll continue looking.

    Either way, I've been all over the map on drivetrain (Tiagra, 105, Rival?), brakes (hydraulic, TRP Spyre?) and various components (no idea how to choose a stem, drop bars, seat post).

    It's been pretty interesting (re-)learning about building a bike.

    If you aren't planning on taking it off road, you might check out the SOMA Fog Cutter. Similar geo, carbon fork painted to match the frame, regular road QR axles with regular dropouts, and similar tube set. If singlespeed-ability isn't a concern, this might make a winner.

    That said, the Wolverine is pretty fantastic, and you won't be wrong for getting one. Being able to fit huge tires is nice. The Wolverine will swallow 29x2.2 tires if you want it to. Single speed is an option; belt drive, 1x, 2x, 3x, or whatever you want to build it up with is cool too. Want thru-axles? Get the unicrown thru axle fork and some sliders from Paragon and you are in business. Want fenders? It has tabs for those. Want a rack? It can do those too, front and back, and at the same time as fenders. Versatile is an understatement with this bike. It does everything, and doesn't look like a Surly with too many bolts/holes in nonsensical places.

    In the 650b/700c debate, there are pros/cons with each, as you already stated. I like 700c for the reasons you stated above - easier to find wheels appropriate for the application, tires are also easy to find, and I prefer more roll-over ability. Plus, the geo of this bike was designed with 700c in mind, and BB height is perfect for me with 700x40 or so tires. Tires that large are going to be heavier than their skinnier counterparts, its just the nature of the beast, but a lot of the tubeless gravel tires have light casings, which do help with the weight - at the price of durability. The WTB Resolutes are pretty much the perfect tire for me with this bike - fast, not terribly heavy, traction everywhere, seem to be lasting well enough, and I think they look fantastic on the orange frame.

    For kit/cockpit, that is all personal choice. I like my bar end shifter with 1x11, but horses for course, you know. I didn't really see any better alternatives that I could afford when I built mine up. This will get some flame, but I suggest avoiding TRP Spyres. They are much better in theory than in practice. I have Spyres now and will be switching to hydros of some sort in the near future. If you want cable discs, get BB7s or Shimano CX77, or better yet, just go hydraulic.

    Overall, though, my Wolverine is my favorite bike, because it rides soooo smoothly, over any terrain. It has taken me on some great rides over lots of different terrain, and I am always glad I rode it at the end. Its not a perfect road bike, and its definitely not a perfect trail bike, but it does strike an excellent balance of go-anywhere and do it quickly. You can't go wrong with a Wolverine.

  29. #529
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    @SpeedyStein Thanks for the reply!

    Funny, soon after I posted above, I started looking at the Fog Cutter. That's now my target frame, but I'm still very open to something else. I'm also interested in the 2018 Kona Rove ST, but I don't know how the quality compares or if I could even find one. I love the 2018 color, not so much the 2019 color.

    Anyway, currently focused on the Fog Cutter, so your comment indicates I'm headed in the right direction.

    I rode a couple bikes with TRP Spyres and thought they were good. But I've not rode them in anger. They might be more appropriate to road biking vs. trail biking. But that's just a guess.

    I've read that 650b wheels with larger tires, like the WTB Byway has a similar radius as a 700x30 tire. So not as big as a 700x40 but still pretty good.

  30. #530
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    Quote Originally Posted by objectuser View Post
    @SpeedyStein Thanks for the reply!

    Funny, soon after I posted above, I started looking at the Fog Cutter. That's now my target frame, but I'm still very open to something else. I'm also interested in the 2018 Kona Rove ST, but I don't know how the quality compares or if I could even find one. I love the 2018 color, not so much the 2019 color.

    Anyway, currently focused on the Fog Cutter, so your comment indicates I'm headed in the right direction.

    I rode a couple bikes with TRP Spyres and thought they were good. But I've not rode them in anger. They might be more appropriate to road biking vs. trail biking. But that's just a guess.

    I've read that 650b wheels with larger tires, like the WTB Byway has a similar radius as a 700x30 tire. So not as big as a 700x40 but still pretty good.
    Haha, great minds think alike! I am eyeing a Fog Cutter over for myself, actually. Will definitely have to save up some pennies, but would love one with Shimano hydraulic 11 speed group, 32mm tubeless tires mounted up to some A23s or similar. Would make a really nice long ride day bike, or a fun and fast bike to take the long way home on my commute.

    I don't like my Spyres because they require so much more adjustment than single piston calipers - it seems like every other time I ride my Wolverine I am adjusting the damn brakes. The sweet spot is pretty narrow, and once you are out of it, they just don't have any power.

    Tire and wheel size is totally a personal choice, but be mindful that the Wolverine has a pretty low bottom bracket already. Most of the folks running 650b rubber on Wolverines are running big rubber - 2.1 or so. But, there are certainly others running byways and horizons and not having any problems, so it is your call. I already bump my cranks on rocks occasionally, so I don't think any shorter than 700x40ish will ever go on my bike, simply for that fact.

    Good luck, looking forward to seeing what you end up building!

  31. #531
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    Quote Originally Posted by SpeedyStein View Post
    I don't like my Spyres because they require so much more adjustment than single piston calipers - it seems like every other time I ride my Wolverine I am adjusting the damn brakes. The sweet spot is pretty narrow, and once you are out of it, they just don't have any power.
    I was using Spyres on the Wolverine until one of the bolts seized and I rounded out the bolt in the caliper. They weren't terrible but they weren't that great either. If you want to keep your "brifters" try out the Yokozuna cable actuated hydro brakes. They are really nice and the kit comes with rotors and their really nice brake cable housing.

    Soma Wolverine Builds-yokozuna.jpg

    I am being super lazy though and haven't replaced the front housing. I'm running on the rear and I can actually feel a huge difference in brake feel between the front and the rear. I'll get to it one day.
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  32. #532
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    Quote Originally Posted by SpeedyStein View Post
    Haha, great minds think alike! I am eyeing a Fog Cutter over for myself, actually. Will definitely have to save up some pennies, but would love one with Shimano hydraulic 11 speed group, 32mm tubeless tires mounted up to some A23s or similar. Would make a really nice long ride day bike, or a fun and fast bike to take the long way home on my commute.
    Too funny!

    The new 105 (R7000) group is out and supposed to be very good. That would be a nice setup.

    I've loved both my Shimano SLX and Sram Guide hydraulics on my mountain bikes so I am very tempted by hydraulics as well. I love the modulation there and I almost never adjust the things.

  33. #533
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    Quote Originally Posted by joshhan View Post
    I was using Spyres on the Wolverine until one of the bolts seized and I rounded out the bolt in the caliper. They weren't terrible but they weren't that great either. If you want to keep your "brifters" try out the Yokozuna cable actuated hydro brakes. They are really nice and the kit comes with rotors and their really nice brake cable housing.

    I am being super lazy though and haven't replaced the front housing. I'm running on the rear and I can actually feel a huge difference in brake feel between the front and the rear. I'll get to it one day.
    So those are like the TRP Hy/Rd brakes? Cool, I hadn't heard of those. Were you turned off on TRP after the Spyres and that's why you got the Yokozuna brakes?

  34. #534
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    Found a review that compares them favorably to the TRP Hy/Rd, but they are about $90 more expensive for a pair than the TRPs (at least for the quick search I did).

  35. #535
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    Quote Originally Posted by joshhan View Post
    I was using Spyres on the Wolverine until one of the bolts seized and I rounded out the bolt in the caliper. They weren't terrible but they weren't that great either. If you want to keep your "brifters" try out the Yokozuna cable actuated hydro brakes. They are really nice and the kit comes with rotors and their really nice brake cable housing.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I am being super lazy though and haven't replaced the front housing. I'm running on the rear and I can actually feel a huge difference in brake feel between the front and the rear. I'll get to it one day.
    I thought about those a lot - haven't seen a lot of feedback, good or bad, which makes me think that they are still relatively unknown. I think their timing was just unfortunate to bring those to launch - a lot of folks were already eyeing over full hydraulic systems when those launched, and Shimano/SRAM first gen road hydraulic systems had already come down in price.

    Alternatively, TRP has the Hylex full hydraulic system, that you can do di2 or gevenalle with, or of course bar end, single speed, or downtube shifters. I thought a lot about that too, because I like my end. I already had the TRPs and Tektro levers in my parts bin though, and couldn't justify spending that much more, so I went with what I had on hand. If I ever re-configure this bike, I will likely go with a Shimano 11sp hydraulic setup.

  36. #536
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    Quote Originally Posted by objectuser View Post
    Found a review that compares them favorably to the TRP Hy/Rd, but they are about $90 more expensive for a pair than the TRPs (at least for the quick search I did).
    I think the price difference is OK considering they come with decent rotors and a really nice cable kit - the cable kit is usually $60 for a front/back, which isn't really terrible on its own. But, for $125/wheel, that is in TRP Hylex territory, which is a full hydraulic brake. Throw in another $200 and you have whatever shifter setup you want through gevenalle, and that is a pretty reasonable price for a whole shift/brake solution. Just add a RD/FD and drivetrain, and you are in business.

  37. #537
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    I have bought 2 sets (one for the commuter). I wait until the somafab.com has their 20% sales. So $200 - $40 for $160 shipped. I like them a lot, they brought back 1 finger braking and I don't need to upgrade my shifters.

    And as other posters have noted, they do come with the really nice metal, braided housing, rotors and mounting hardware.
    Bikes, lots'o bikes

  38. #538
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    Quote Originally Posted by joshhan View Post
    I have bought 2 sets (one for the commuter). I wait until the somafab.com has their 20% sales. So $200 - $40 for $160 shipped. I like them a lot, they brought back 1 finger braking and I don't need to upgrade my shifters.

    And as other posters have noted, they do come with the really nice metal, braided housing, rotors and mounting hardware.
    What is your opinion of the rotors? Also, what pads do those brakes require - is it a standard style pad, or would I need to order from SOMA/IRD/Yokozuna every time I needed pads?

  39. #539
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    Quote Originally Posted by SpeedyStein View Post
    What is your opinion of the rotors? Also, what pads do those brakes require - is it a standard style pad, or would I need to order from SOMA/IRD/Yokozuna every time I needed pads?
    Rotors are fine, the pads are the same shape as the Shimano MTB pads so you have a variety of choices there.

    They are coming out with a 4 piston version soon from what I've read!
    Bikes, lots'o bikes

  40. #540
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    First bought my 2.0 frame set back in 2016. Had it set up on 29" wheels as a drop bar single speed, flat bar single speed, with fenders, without fenders... Finally took the plunge and set up the bike as a 1x11 on 650b wheels. Apex 1 HydroR groupset, Stan's Crest Mk3 wheels, and WTB Horizon tires. Considering snagging a thru-axle front fork and rear sliders, but haven't really felt the need yet.

    Soma Wolverine Builds-pf9yxvxh.jpg

    Soma Wolverine Builds-we3od3fh.jpg

    Soma Wolverine Builds-mqcjcbkh.jpg


    On a side note, anybody else running Soma Junebug dirt drops? For some reason both my TRP Hylex and SRAM Apex levers have trouble achieving proper clamp load on these bars. The screw on the ring clamp bottoms out before the ring clamp has fully contacted the bars, meaning I can't tighten the screw down any further. I don't have this issue on another set Syntace road bars, so it's definitely the Junebug bar, not the brake levers. I can get around this issue by wrapping the bar a couple times with electrical tape, but this doesn't seem like something I should have to do.

  41. #541
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    Warentee completed.. Don't like the gloss black like I did the orange. Left the steerer full length for now

    Sent from my LG-H872 using Tapatalk

  42. #542
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    Yeah, the orange just had something special. I'm okay with the black. But the orange was better.

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  43. #543
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    Yeah I loved the orange. When I started the warentee process. Somone on the thread said the frame is e coated. I don't notice that, and I don't see that in the specs on the web site. Do I need to use some frame /rust protection? Or is it e coated?

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  44. #544
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    It's definitely e coated and it's very noticeable. No reason to avoid adding a second layer of corrosion resistance.

    Sent from my LG-LS993 using Tapatalk

  45. #545
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    Quote Originally Posted by Agwan View Post
    It's definitely e coated and it's very noticeable. No reason to avoid adding a second layer of corrosion resistance.

    Sent from my LG-LS993 using Tapatalk
    Thank you

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    Suggestions for 1x setup for Wolverine

    I just ordered a 56cm Wolverine and want to go with a 1x setup. My local shop suggested going with SRAM Rival. Are there alternative 1x setups people would suggest?

    Thanks,

    Chad

  47. #547
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    Quote Originally Posted by ckinge View Post
    I just ordered a 56cm Wolverine and want to go with a 1x setup. My local shop suggested going with SRAM Rival. Are there alternative 1x setups people would suggest?

    Thanks,

    Chad
    This is going to be an unpopular opinion but I hated 1x for gravel/trail riding on the Wolverine. I went 2x and love it. Lost too much on the highest and lowest gears when I ran a 38t chainring. I'm now on a compact crank (50/34) with a 11-36 10 speed cassette and love it.

    SRAM Rival levers
    10 speed X9 rear derailleur (type 2 clutched!)
    Rival front derailleur

    Otherwise, if you use SRAM levers, you can mix mountain and road 10 speed groups which is awesome.
    Bikes, lots'o bikes

  48. #548
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    I run 50-34x11-42 on one of my bikes and love it. I'll ultimately run 42x11-50 on my bikepacker. But that's for simplicity, not for being ideal.

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  49. #549
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    Hi,

    Could you please share with me your entire 1x setup?

  50. #550
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    It will be a 105 5800 crank with a wolf tooth 42t narrow wide chainring. XT-M8000-SGS rear derailleur, M8000 shifter, Sunrace CSMX8 11-50 conversion cassette.

    If I ever take it back to Drop bar, it will be with 105 R7000 hydro mechanical levers and a Wolftooth Tanpan adapter.

    The 2x set up is using dura ace hydromechanical levers with a Tanpan on an XT rear derailleur. Works flawless.

    Sent from my LG-LS993 using Tapatalk

  51. #551
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    Nothing really new here guys but still riding and loving my Wolvie! I checked back in after a long break and thought I would share some recent gravel grind pics. I was on a ride a few weeks ago and my Cazaderos, which had over half tread left, broke a belt in the front tire. It developed a buldge right in the center of the tread. I finished the ride but it progressed badly and barely made it back. The third pic shows my Wolvie currently sporting 43mm Gravel kings. I have yet to get out for a ride with these yet. They look sharp! Soma Wolverine Builds-file-ebb07a3f-30ef-46fc-8969-a799c57f20a2-692-00000065a54a7691.jpg
    Soma Wolverine Builds-file-eb8e46a9-689d-4b45-a514-ee8b132302c5-692-00000065a794e8a8.jpg
    Soma Wolverine Builds-file-09ee5f51-01ce-4fec-a618-68b079a280b2-620-0000005394cab680.jpg

  52. #552
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    Quote Originally Posted by joshhan View Post
    This is going to be an unpopular opinion but I hated 1x for gravel/trail riding on the Wolverine. I went 2x and love it. Lost too much on the highest and lowest gears when I ran a 38t chainring. I'm now on a compact crank (50/34) with a 11-36 10 speed cassette and love it.

    SRAM Rival levers
    10 speed X9 rear derailleur (type 2 clutched!)
    Rival front derailleur

    Otherwise, if you use SRAM levers, you can mix mountain and road 10 speed groups which is awesome.
    Ha, I'm running that same gearing combo on one of my bikes. 5700 105 and 9 speed XT RD, and compact crank with 11-36 10 speed cassette. Makes for a great everything bike setup - always have a gear that works for whatever I am doing, even if I am carrying stupid amounts of stuff up a steep hill.

  53. #553
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    Wolverine drive train setup

    Hey guys, posting because I had a few requests in PM about my drive train setup. Very happy with this drive train setup - reliable, easy to use, shifts quickly, and easy to setup. Hope this helps with your builds!

    Shimano M8000 XT RD, XT 11-42 cassette
    Soma Wolverine Builds-20181101_203622.jpg
    Ultegra crankset with Wolftooth 40t elliptical ring
    Soma Wolverine Builds-20181101_203633.jpg
    Microshift bar end shifter, 11 speed DynaSys compatible. BS-M11 is the part number - works perfectly with Shimano 11 speed MTB RD. Comes in pair with friction front too, if needed.
    Soma Wolverine Builds-20181101_203654.jpg

  54. #554
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    Very slick, SpeedyStein!

  55. #555
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    Quote Originally Posted by doismellbacon View Post
    Very slick, SpeedyStein!
    Thank you!

  56. #556
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    Hey all. Iíve been stalking this thread for a while. I built up my Wolverine last fall. Totally loving the bike. Eventually Iíll post the build spec but for now hereís some photos.




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  57. #557
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    Quote Originally Posted by SanJuanSam View Post
    Hey all. Iíve been stalking this thread for a while. I built up my Wolverine last fall. Totally loving the bike. Eventually Iíll post the build spec but for now hereís some photos.




    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Right on, looks like you have built it up a few different ways so far. That's what I like about mine - it is super flexible to build up for whatever I want to do/ride. Which frame bag is the camo one? I really like the shape of that - looks like bottles actually fit in the cages with that one. I have the Blackburn Outpost bag and don't really like it much for this frame - I can't fit the bag and bottles at the same time.

  58. #558
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    Quote Originally Posted by SpeedyStein View Post
    Right on, looks like you have built it up a few different ways so far. That's what I like about mine - it is super flexible to build up for whatever I want to do/ride. Which frame bag is the camo one? I really like the shape of that - looks like bottles actually fit in the cages with that one. I have the Blackburn Outpost bag and don't really like it much for this frame - I can't fit the bag and bottles at the same time.
    So the camo frame bag in the second photo is a Jandd. The other frame bag that is green/camo is from Oveja Negra. I like the bag from Oveja a bit more although requires the use of smaller bottles.

    In a short amount of time my wolverine has seen some different set ups. Mostly just wheel/tire changes. The move from a mountain triple to a white industries vbc double was huge. It allows running the tire as far forward as possible with clearance for the front derailleur. The 2.2 continentals had some interface with the front derailleur even slammed back in the dropouts. I heard about the frame failures right after installing those so I pulled em off and went to rock n roads which are great tires on this bike.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  59. #559
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    Soma Wolverine Builds-moses-rez-raider-orange-harvester.jpg

    This is my Wolverine and my dog, they are both pretty fun to hang out with.

  60. #560
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    Quote Originally Posted by SanJuanSam View Post
    So the camo frame bag in the second photo is a Jandd. The other frame bag that is green/camo is from Oveja Negra. I like the bag from Oveja a bit more although requires the use of smaller bottles.

    In a short amount of time my wolverine has seen some different set ups. Mostly just wheel/tire changes. The move from a mountain triple to a white industries vbc double was huge. It allows running the tire as far forward as possible with clearance for the front derailleur. The 2.2 continentals had some interface with the front derailleur even slammed back in the dropouts. I heard about the frame failures right after installing those so I pulled em off and went to rock n roads which are great tires on this bike.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Right on, Thanks for the info on the bags.

    Yeah, I ran 2.25 Nine Lines on mine for a little while, and didn't have FD problems because 1x, but I didn't really care for how the bike handled with that large of a tire. I switched to the WTB Resolutes and couldn't be happier - they are pretty similar in size/knob characteristics to the R&Rs.

    Thanks for sharing!

  61. #561
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    Quote Originally Posted by SpeedyStein View Post
    Right on, Thanks for the info on the bags.

    Yeah, I ran 2.25 Nine Lines on mine for a little while, and didn't have FD problems because 1x, but I didn't really care for how the bike handled with that large of a tire. I switched to the WTB Resolutes and couldn't be happier - they are pretty similar in size/knob characteristics to the R&Rs.

    Thanks for sharing!
    Recently I switched to a set of NOS WTB Mutano Raptors in 44. They are a great tire for this bike. Not too bad on pavement and perfect in the snowy conditions we have right now. This bike is making me become a tire/wheel set collector.


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  62. #562
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    Quote Originally Posted by boostin View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Moses Rez Raider Orange Harvester.jpg 
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ID:	1232328

    This is my Wolverine and my dog, they are both pretty fun to hang out with.
    Iím digging the purple (I think) bar tape. What bars are those? Almost look like on-one midge.


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  63. #563
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    Quote Originally Posted by SanJuanSam View Post
    Iím digging the purple (I think) bar tape. What bars are those? Almost look like on-one midge.

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    My friend who built it gave me purple housing so I bought a purple stem and purple tape for it. I think it looks pretty good! The bars are Salsa woodchipper 2's I am 95% positive.

  64. #564
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    I have a wolverine frame that I am building up using parts bin components. I will need to make one purchase related to the wheels. I have an old DT Swiss X1600 rear wheel with with a 142x12 hub. I am debating whether to pay $40 for DT end caps to convert the hub to 135 QR or spending $65 for paragon sliders and hardware to convert the frame to 142x12. Thoughts? Any strong preferences on these two options?

    A related question. Paragon lists and sells the shimano AX-MT700 thru axle as being compatitble with their dropouts. I have an old SM-AX75 thru axle that I hope is compatible. Anybody know if it will work? I asked Paragon customer service and they refused to comment on its compatibility.

    Thanks!

  65. #565
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    I would really stick with DT Swiss for paragon drop outs. I know there are others that work. But DT is worth it.

    I strongly prefer the through axle rear end on my Wolverines. Having run both axle types.

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