Good, high-quality internal-cam quick-releases should be fine. A thru-axle front fork would probably be a bit better. A thru-axle rear probably is not nearly as important.
(If you were starting from scratch, and budget allowed, the V. 4 type A frame would offer that advantage, and the ability to put on a 1.5" taper fork, most of which are now thru-axle. If you were going to spend the money on a pricey fork, I would get a Spork rather than an Enve CX, because it has the attachment points. Neither would fit the v. 2, if I understand correctly.)
If you get a disc-brake compatible quick-release fork, make sure to get one where the dropouts face forward, rather than back, so the braking force is less likely to dislodge the wheel.
I already have a frame and fork, v2 to be exact so different frame and fork are a bit out of budget for me. But, I will keep that in mind when it comes to discs, thank you.
I already have a frame and fork, v2 to be exact so different frame and fork are a bit out of budget for me. But, I will keep that in mind when it comes to discs, thank you.
I think I may have mis-understood what you were asking, but I went through this on my bike, so I guess I was primed.
Went to a LBS and they had the budget Shimano skewers for $18 for the set, but I was fortunate they had one last set of DTSwiss, which I got for $30ish.
Out of curiosity is anyone running suspension fork, lauf, fox, or any that fits and works? How do you like it? Also, anyone here know if any of the Vittoria 29x2.1 XC tires will fit/work or are they a bit on the large size?
Last edited by Funoutside; 08-26-2019 at 10:08 PM.
No I haven't tried the Condors. I started with the Gators and they are fantastic for stability going downhill but they pushed me out too far. I just switched to the Salsa Cowchippers and while not quite as stable going downhill, they are really nice so far. I only have a few hours on them so time will tell but I think I'll really like them. I'm not as stretched out which makes the bike more comfortable for me.
Why would I need more than one gear?
@A_SingleSpeeder
EPA = crooks!
Does the cowchipper bring you down more vs the Gators? I currently not a fan of how low I am when going downhill, not a comfortable position. Was thinking Jones bar, but was also suggested I check out the Condor bars and honestly it does look interesting. Handling is a concern with going the Jones, Moloko, or VO Crazy Bar route, and why I am seeing if anyone here has one of the Condor bar variants on their Wolverine.
Does the cowchipper bring you down more vs the Gators? I currently not a fan of how low I am when going downhill, not a comfortable position. Was thinking Jones bar, but was also suggested I check out the Condor bars and honestly it does look interesting. Handling is a concern with going the Jones, Moloko, or VO Crazy Bar route, and why I am seeing if anyone here has one of the Condor bar variants on their Wolverine.
The Gators have a much deeper drop and farther reach than the Cows. However, when holding the curve position, the Gators are more comfy. Ultimately, I needed something with more flat on top, Gators have very little top flat bar, and not so long in the drops.
Not sure that helps but that's my experience so far. My roadie has completely different bars so what do I know.
Sent from my LM-G710VM using Tapatalk
Why would I need more than one gear?
@A_SingleSpeeder
EPA = crooks!
Out of curiosity anyone running a non-Soma steel fork, like an All-City or Surly, on their Wolverine? Or a suspension fork, like the lauf or fox 32 gravel model? How is it?
Last edited by Funoutside; 09-09-2019 at 07:28 PM.
Any suggestions on a hex/lock nut? I am still using the regular ones that I got from the hardware store and it's not staying fully tight. I ordered new screws(20) from amazon, but looking to get a stronger nut to match. I didn't see anything good at my local Home Depot or lumber store.
Any suggestions on a hex/lock nut? I am still using the regular ones that I got from the hardware store and it's not staying fully tight. I ordered new screws(20) from amazon, but looking to get a stronger nut to match. I didn't see anything good at my local Home Depot or lumber store.
Have you stripped the threads on the nut? If so, you can get higher "class" nuts and bolts so that you can apply more torque without stripping them. The differences in hardware "grades" (SAE) vs "Classes" (metric) can be a little confusing. Here's a link that explains it.... https://www.fastenermart.com/underst...d-classes.html
Home Depot is generally not the best source for "oddball" bolts, which is what most small metric high strength bike-related bolts would be considered in 'Murica, but you probably have an industrial supply place like American Bolt near you unless you're way out in the sticks.
If it's not an issue of stripping threads, then you can apply more torque, put some blue loctite on the threads, or use two nuts, one torqued down to the dropout like normal, and a second one locked against the first, for some extra holding power.
This is just general mechanical info... I haven't had any issues with the hardware on my Soma loosening up... somebody else may have something to add more specific to this bike that I'm not thinking of, but I think the basic concepts are sound regardless of what kind of machine you're talking about.
It's not stripped, just got loose. I had a bike shop tighten it up for me(don't have tq-wrench). I will get some loctite to have the shop retighten it. The screws currently on the bike uses a Phillips head to tighten, but this new one is stainless steel and uses an m5 key to tighten. Thank you for the reply.
It's not stripped, just got loose. I had a bike shop tighten it up for me(don't have tq-wrench). I will get some loctite to have the shop retighten it. The screws currently on the bike uses a Phillips head to tighten, but this new one is stainless steel and uses an m5 key to tighten. Thank you for the reply.
Which bolts are you having trouble with? Most frame/cockpit bolts aren't particularly torque sensitive, unless you are using delicate carbon parts.
I saw you asking about handlebars and tires for this bike above - I've tried a lot! Haha. I have settled on a flat bar build for mine for now, an Easton Monkey bar, I think it's 660mm or so wide, with a 100mm stem. I still have a 44cm Ritchey Evo Max road bar ready to suit up too if the mood suits - the brakes, shifter, and 70mm stem are all still connected so it makes for a pretty quick transition. For me, and my fit preferences, those seem to be about the sweet spot, but I think I have a kinda long torso and shortish legs for my height. I'm 5'11" and ride a 54cm Wolvie, for reference.
For tires, I've run 35mm WTB Cross Boss, 2.25 WTB Nine Lines, 42mm WTB Resolute, 40mm Kenda Happy Medium, and 32mm Continental Grand Race slicks, all in 700c/29er. I think my next tires are going to be something a bit smoother than the Resolute, maybe a file tread of some sort, in around a 700x42mm size.
Having issues with the m5 limit screws for the sliding dropouts. For tires I am running 29x1.95 Kenda karma sport on WTB 21i laserdisc rims but trying out 27.5x2.2 WTB BeeLine on 25 width Alex rim DC4. I got the new screws in the mail and it looks solid vs the current ones that came with the frame(bought it off craigslist). I am hoping this keeps the dropouts from moving and causing the rear tires when a bit loose to hit the frame.
Having issues with the m5 limit screws for the sliding dropouts. For tires I am running 29x1.95 Kenda karma sport on WTB 21i laserdisc rims but trying out 27.5x2.2 WTB BeeLine on 25 width Alex rim DC4. I got the new screws in the mail and it looks solid vs the current ones that came with the frame(bought it off craigslist). I am hoping this keeps the dropouts from moving and causing the rear tires when a bit loose to hit the frame.
Ah, it took a little work to get my limit screws to stay in place too - I used a small end wrench (8mm I think? - it was a while ago) to tighten the heck out of the nut against the frame. Otherwise they would loosen and fall out, haha.
I actually rode for a few months without them attached to the bike - they don't do much. The other side of this is the dropouts should be torqued tightly enough to completely restrict their motion. I have no idea what value mine are torqued to, but I am confident it is a fair bit more than specified on the sliding plate. I figure that I don't want it skipping whole riding, so I basically took it as far as I dare, keeping in mind that too far would create a failure. I'm pretty sure the only reason those tiny screws are on for limit stops is for fine adjustment prior to torquing the sliders.
Tires with this bike are a double edge sword - it will fit quite large tires, but tires that big take all the fun out of it. I feel like 700x42mm is about the sweet spot for me - enough volume to soak up chatter but still light and short enough to make the bike light and nimble. I didn't care for the bigger tires because I had to slide the dropouts all the way to fit them, which made the bike feel sluggish and heavy. The larger diameter also threw off the front geometry, further contributing to this problem.
I just moved to new-ish looking 27.5x2.2(got the rim and tire combo for a very good deal on ebay) and really like it a bit better than 29 I was running. The lower bb fits me a bit better, and maybe it's a placebo(or the tires) but I feel it's a bit better in the turns. It doesn't hurt that 27.5 is a bit easier to climb with than 29. I may change the 29 tires from a 1.95 to something in the 38-40 range so I can have a set for rides that are more road-oriented than gravel.
I just moved to new-ish looking 27.5x2.2(got the rim and tire combo for a very good deal on ebay) and really like it a bit better than 29 I was running. The lower bb fits me a bit better, and maybe it's a placebo(or the tires) but I feel it's a bit better in the turns. It doesn't hurt that 27.5 is a bit easier to climb with than 29. I may change the 29 tires from a 1.95 to something in the 38-40 range so I can have a set for rides that are more road-oriented than gravel.
Right on, glad to hear the 27.5 is working out for you. I haven't tried that wheel size on mine yet, but I've heard many success stories. Where are your dropouts with that tire size? I have seen plenty of pictures of Wolverines with 27.5x2.1 tires and dropouts all the way forward, but I don't think I've seen any with 27.5 tires bigger than that.
I think the max the Wolverine can hold is 2.2 in either size. I am close to the back for the slightly more table handling, but also just in case I want to ride 29 tire setup again or running 29x38
I think the max the Wolverine can hold is 2.2 in either size. I am close to the back for the slightly more table handling, but also just in case I want to ride 29 tire setup again or running 29x38
Yeah, when I had the 29x2.25 Nine Lines on, I was definitely all the way at the back - was just curious if a 2.2 27.5 would require the same. Alternatively, with 700x42 I am all the way forward, which really makes the bike much more lively. I didn't think it would have such an impact, but it is pretty profound. One this is for sure though, with those big 2.25 tires tubeless running like 25psi, I absolutely floated over everything! Like riding an orange cloud monster truck, haha
Is there a list of 29x2.2 tires that will work on the Wolverine? A 2.2 labeled tires that is undersized a bit, ie measures at between 2.0-2.1.
I don't think I've seen such a list, but can confirm that 29x2.25 WTB Nineline on i23 rims fits, barely. No room for mud/debris. One sticky trail scrubbed the paint off the insides of my fork, chainstays, and by the chainring, haha.
Check out Instagram for #somawolverine - there are a lot of varied builds out there, and you can get a good idea of what size tires most folks are running. Also, the first couple pages of this thread has quite a bit of tire-fitting discussion, and a few pics of big-tire setups.
As I've mentioned before though - be prepared for your bike to feel like a tank if you put that tire size on. The combined effect on trail in the front and increased chainstay length by running sliders all the way at the back will have a considerable impact on your bike's handling. 700x42mm is my sweet spot on this bike - about the largest size I would run the sliders all the way forward. But, if you are looking for big tires for long distance off road touring, a 29x2.1 wouldn't be a bad deal. I think 2.1 should be a safe size pretty much across the board, unless you are running some super wide rims or super deep tread patter tires, like a mud spike or studded for ice. As always, sometimes finding the right tire is a bit hunt and peck - it took me 4 tries to find what worked for me and my riding style/location, but once I did, it really felt like I unlocked this bike's potential to truly be my "everywhere, anytime" bike.
Thank you for your reply. I am running i25 rims with 29x1.95 xc tires that aren't fast, but not slow either. but. I just noticed there are more 2.20 options than 2.1 & thought I'd ask. When I was testing out rims in a 27.5 size I was running Beeeline(same as tread pattern as Nineline) in a 2.2 size. Like the tire in the front, but less so for the back, didn't like the grip in dry SoCal climbs. I went back to 29er rims as I like its rolls over vs 27.5. I try it tucked once but prefer the longer chainstay during descents. I am trying to stick in the 1.85+ range as I like the extra size over speed as it is about a 75/25 split between gravel/off-road(75) & road riding for me.
I'm considering a Soma Wolverine 3.0, but I'm a bit hesitant after reading several reviews with cracked frame around the dropout. As far as I understand, Soma made some reinforcements from 2.1 Wolverine, but I'd like to hear real user feedback on how reliable the Wolverine frame is...Thanks!
I have a 2.0 & was told the craked dropouts really only were an issue on the larger frames with heavier riders & when having the dropouts all the way back. 3.0 & newer should have solved that.
I'm considering a Soma Wolverine 3.0, but I'm a bit hesitant after reading several reviews with cracked frame around the dropout. As far as I understand, Soma made some reinforcements from 2.1 Wolverine, but I'd like to hear real user feedback on how reliable the Wolverine frame is...Thanks!
I bought a Wolverine 2.0 in Jan 2016 and have had no frame issues. I've ridden it about 1000 miles since then, most of which were hard and fast miles over really rough terrain - the same trails I MTB on.
Originally Posted by Funoutside
I have a 2.0 & was told the craked dropouts really only were an issue on the larger frames with heavier riders & when having the dropouts all the way back. 3.0 & newer should have solved that.
Running tires too large, requiring the dropouts to be all the way back, was identified as a likely culprit - and obviously heavier riders transfer more force to suspected weak parts. I'm curious if riding these bikes super loaded up over rough terrain played a factor for many of the breaks? I ran mine with 29x2.25 tires for a long time, with the dropouts all the way back, and had no issues. I weigh 200lbs, and ride a 54cm bike, for reference.
Which 2.25 tires did you run, cause I thought the max is 2.1 for 29er tires. Did 2.25 tires fit through the fork too, or did you have to run smaller there? Would all 29x2.2 tires work or just some?
Which 2.25 tires did you run, cause I thought the max is 2.1 for 29er tires. Did 2.25 tires fit through the fork too, or did you have to run smaller there? Would all 29x2.2 tires work or just some?
I ran WTB Ninelines. They fit, barely. Was great for my commute, hauling my daughter around in her kid-seat, and really bumpy dried out fire roads. Sucked for pretty much everything else though, because if I went over mud, wet leaves, sticks, or anything loose, I was getting crap caught in the chainstays and fork. Also killed the fun handling of the bike, because I had to run the dropouts all the way back and it changed the trail too much.
The fit of a 2.2 29er tire would depend on rim width and tire construction. Often tires end up a little wider or narrower than advertised, and rim width can significantly exaggerate this. I have WTB i23s, and with the WTB Nineline 2.25s, the fit was super tight. A knobbier 2.2 on a wider rim would likely not fit, but no one can say for sure until someone tries it. Also, the fork had more clearance than the chainstays.
I personally won't run larger than a 42mm on this bike again - that just seems to be the sweet spot for me for ride, handling, grip, and looks.
For pics of my various setups, see posts 101, 105, 273, 400, 440, 446, and 553 of this thread. Strangely, I don't have pics of my current setup posted, with flat bars with XT and 42mm Resolutes, kinda like a super off road hybrid, haha. But this setup is only going to be on for a few more days, then back to drops and 105 with 35mm Cross Boss' for a mixed terrain race in a couple weeks. Love this bike with flat bars, but kinda looking forward to having it back with drops too, haha. If taxes are good to me this year, I might buy a V4 thru axle frame and run my flat bar setup on that one... maybe.
Thank you for your reply. I am currently running 29x1.95 tires in i25 Raceface offset wheels. I like the size, but not the Kenda Karma Sport XC tires* & will probably swap them out in the summer. It's slow-rolling on road & flat gravel, but like how it handles & goes down-hill. I also have a pair of WTB i21 rims I have for sale, but a part of me wants to keep to run 35mm Gravel Kings. But, I also have my eye on a plus tire rigid bike & have the Wolverine running 29x42mm gravel tires. I'll probably sleep on it until the summer so I can ride some of this out.
*I bought wire bead by mistake because the amazon listing was wrong. They just charged me for one tire for their mistake & next time I am buying from a LBS.
Right now, I still have the bike built up with flat bars, 1x11, and 42c WTB Resolutes. I think I'm gonna switch it back to drops with bar ends, 2x11, and 35c WTB Cross Boss - basically make it a little more "roadish".
Cross Boss is a great tire, with very similar characteristics to the Resolute, just a bit narrower and lighter. I measured the Resolute before removing last night, and on i23s, it measured 44mm after about 800 miles, and the brand new Cross Boss measured 36 on the same rims - they should plump just a smidge in the next week or two once I get some miles on them, probably to around 37ish.
I haven't actually ridden this tire in about 2 years, but I remember them being pretty fast and easy rolling, with pretty good traction over most conditions - but I don't mind getting a little drifty through loose corners, YMMV. I haven't ridden the Gravelking SK, but I think they are comparable in 35mm. I will certainly update my stance on this opinion if my mind changes over the next few weeks, but I expect to appreciate this tire for a low-medium volume lightweight option with decent traction. Once I finish putting everything back together, I will post a pic of my bike, but it is definitely looking more and more "race-bikish", with narrower tires and drop bars, haha.
I had it setup with flat bars, and today will finish the drivetrain work to switch back to drops - running a wide drop bar with bar end shifters, probably a little more aggressive fit than with flats too. I expect about 2" saddle-bar drop with this setup. TRP Spyres for brakes, was looking at newer Shimano hydraulic brake road levers, but $$$. Maybe for next bike build, haha.
For sure, cable discs aren't great, regardless of which model you have - I've tried a handful and always walk away pretty disappointed when compared to even the cheapest flat bar hydro brakes. That's a big part of why my Wolverine lives a flat bar life at least 1/2 of the time. Sad part is, to get a legit hydro disc drop bar setup is woefully expensive. Almost cheaper to just find a donor bike on sale and strip the frame of components, but then there is the rest of it to deal with/get rid of.
For cable discs, the BB7 was my favorite, and the Shimano CX version was pretty OK too. The Spyres are pretty meh - modulate OK but just have no power. Almost like they got the pull ratio wrong, even when using TRP levers!
I might just buy an 11spd hydro 105 setup with a GRX derailleur this tax season and be done with it.
Yeah, I haven't heard a lot of positive reviews of those, just not close enough to the feel of real hydraulics. And they still cost like $200 for a pair, so not really saving that much over the Tiagra/105 shifter/brake combos. Granted, you can use those with whatever levers you are already running, which means you dont need to buy other components just to get the one to work. But, for another like $150 you can buy the RS505 levers and a GRX RD and be good to go for 1x11 with hydraulic. Granted, the RS505 aren't everyone's cup o' tea, just because the shape of the hoods is a little different than other Shimano levers, but they are available on several websites for around $200-230.
I haven't pulled the trigger on that because I have already spent a fair bit on various different drivetrain configurations on this bike, and my wife is pretty much over the biek spending for a while. That, and I have enough parts to build a couple bikes, if I just had the frames and wheels, haha. I should probably score some old frames and wheels on CL and build up a couple bikes to sell....
Cockpit shot - TRP levers, Microshift 11spd MTB bar end. Connected to TRP Spyre with Shimano resin pads and XT RD, with 40T Wolf Tooth Elliptical ring on Ultegra crankset. WTB Cross Boss 35c tires on WTB rims, DT spokes, and XT hubs, with RT56 rotors. Ritchey post, stem, saddle, with Satori X-Race bar.
Looks sweet, really like the tan wall with the orange. I just order myself a TRP Spyre front brakes as I felt my front were the weak point on my ride They won't be here for another 2 weeks as I ordered it from an ebay seller who included a trp rotor & pads.
Thanks! I also like tan walls, and am pretty happy that they good on the Wolverine. The Resolutes are also tanwall, but a little "browner" than the Cross Boss. Either way, looked good! I almost went with the green Gravel Kings, but I've been very happy with WTB tires for a long time.
The Spyre should be a bit of an upgrade over the BB5 - I haven't ridden a bike with BB5s, but have plenty of miles on the Spyres, and generally they are pretty good for cable disc.
I put in 22 miles and 2500ft today, a nice little shakedown after making the switch back to dropbars. Pretty happy with how it rides, as always. Was actually 1 minute faster on the same loop than I was on my road bike with 32c tires a few days - makes me feel good about my tire and gearing choices.
Thanks! I also like tan walls, and am pretty happy that they good on the Wolverine. The Resolutes are also tanwall, but a little "browner" than the Cross Boss. Either way, looked good! I almost went with the green Gravel Kings, but I've been very happy with WTB tires for a long time.
The Spyre should be a bit of an upgrade over the BB5 - I haven't ridden a bike with BB5s, but have plenty of miles on the Spyres, and generally, they are pretty good for cable disc.
I put in 22 miles and 2500ft today, a nice little shakedown after making the switch back to dropbars. Pretty happy with how it rides, as always. Was actually 1 minute faster on the same loop than I was on my road bike with 32c tires a few days - makes me feel good about my tire and gearing choices.
I know bb5 vs bb7 the bb7 uses larger pads. Spyre pads are also larger than what the bb5 has to offer so that should really improve stopping power on my Wolverine.
There is a bit more to it than just pad size, but yes, the Spyre uses a larger pad than BB5 or BB7. The Spyre uses the Shimano BS01 pad, which is pretty much the de facto non-series Shimano pad. You will notice that Shimano and a few aftermarket folks make MUCH better pads/rotors than TRP - I went to a 180mm Shimano rotor with Shimano pads and had a very noticeable increase in both bite and heat dissipation. If Shimano made a compatible Ice Tech rotor/pad, I bet the difference would be that much again, but they don't.
I've only tried on the flat crown fork, and it's a pretty close fit. I'd assume SOMA wouldn't endorse it, since they don't mention it in the specs on the webpage.
Nothing standard between those sizes. If you have a flat crown qr Wolverine fork, a 180 rotor works, you just gotta get the right caliper adaptor too. Easy peasy, your LBS can point you in the right direction there, they should have the one you need in stock.
That said, I've been running the 180 for a couple years, with 3 different calipers, no problems at all. If it fits, it fits.
I'm really tempted to go 180mm front, will have to see if my current mounts support 180.
Though it is a relatively modern rotor design, I think that Avid rotor is a pretty rare/obsolete part. You would likely have a difficult time finding an appropriate caliper adapter for a brake that wasn't an Avid/SRAM.
For a 180mm rotor, you will need a new caliper adapter. Shimano among others make this part, and it is very common. I will look at the part # of mine when I get home, but you can also find it on Shimano's website - they have a whole table of rotor size and mount types to help find the right one.
If you already have the 160 installed and working, stick with that for a while and feel it out. If you want a little more power and fade resistance, get different pads and rotor. A 160vs 180 rotor is pretty significant, but not as much as jumping to hydraulic brakes, since hydraulic brakes offer so much more overall power, though even then a 180mm rotor might be preferred for heat dissipation.
Here is the adaptor you need for a 180mm rotor:
SM-MA-R160 P/S
I have 160mm BB5 installed & just ordered 160mm TRP Spyre-C for the front as the BB5s are really not working out for me. I will test out the Spyres with 160mm & see how I like it. If I feel like I need more then 1800mm could be the next step. Yeah I read that 180mm warps a bit less due to having more space for the heat spreads. But, I've also read there are suppose to be rotor models that also help keep it a bit cooler, like TI.
Finished the ride mid-pack, as I expected. Everything went well, and I am very happy with my equipment choices. Amid the field of carbon bikes, I saw one other rider on a Wolverine, and a handful of other steel bikes. Pretty sure I was the only one with barend shifters, haha. There were a few really deep mud holes, and the Cross Boss tires performed admirably, narrow enough to sink down to the bottom and find traction where wider tires were floating and sliding. The Spyres did their job well also, but I will definitely need to adjust before riding again, the dirt descent definitely scrubbed the pads down a bit. Tons of mud, a little rain, tons of fun!
Can anyone using 12x142 thru-axle dropouts on a Wolverine (v3 if it matters) confirm which rear rotor size they are using? I’m trying to set up BB7s with 160s and it doesn’t seem to work.
Can anyone using 12x142 thru-axle dropouts on a Wolverine (v3 if it matters) confirm which rear rotor size they are using? I’m trying to set up BB7s with 160s and it doesn’t seem to work.
What exactly is the problem? Is the caliper too close to the rotor, or the caliper too far from the rotor? Or is it a centering issue, the caliper just won't align on the rotor?
Glad you got it sorted, caliper brackets can be frustrating, especially when everything is supposed to line up and it doesn't... I had to try a couple to get the right one for the front. What is the rest of the build? I am always curious to see how other folks build their Wolverine up - they are so versatile!
That is a really sweet looking setup. I have a similar setup Rival crankset & GX(non-Eagle) in the back. Really paired well with my Rival carbon brifters. I take you will be runing like a 10-50t in the back?
I thought I would share the complete specs of my build and some other details to possibly help others who might be building Wolverines. I built this bike to be the one I use 95% of the time for commuting around Denver, running errands, and everything else.
I only ran into a few minor speedbumps during the build:
1) The 2 dropout tightening bolts on right side interfered with the chain when on the smallest cog. Grinding about 1mm off of the bolts did the trick. Chain clearance with the dropout is extremely close, but it's there.
2) The rear brake caliper interfered with the first rear rack I tried, the Tubus Vega Evo. The rack I ended up with required that I file about 1mm off the bottom of the mounting tabs to clear the "shoulder" atop each dropout.
I'll eventually cut the steerer tube and fender mounts once I find the sweet spots. I'm in the market for some saddlebags, reflective tape, and maybe some dynamo-driven lights, but other than that, she's all wrapped up and I'm very happy with the ride quality.
Category
Component
Specifics
Notes
Frameset
Frame
Soma Wolverine v3.0, size 56
Fork
Soma Wolverine unicrown thru-axle
Includes thru axle
Cockpit
Headset
Cane Creek 40 ec34
Stem
Soma Shotwell 7D
Handlebar
Soma Clarence
Grips
ODI Troy Lee lock-on
Drivetrain
Crankset
SRAM Rival 1 GXP 110 42T X-Sync
Cassette
SRAM XG-1275 GX Eagle 12 spd. 10-50T
Rear derailleur
SRAM GX Eagle 12 spd.
Shifter
SRAM GX Eagle 12 spd.
Shifter cable/housing
JagWire
Chain
SRAM GX Eagle
Bottom Bracket
SRAM GXP Team 68/73
Pedals
Foundation Composite Platform
Downtube cable stops
Shimano Housing Stops for 1-1/8" downtube
Brakes
Calipers
Avid BB7 MTB
Kit on eBay, included wrong IS bracket for rear (need 20mm)
Levers
Avid FR7
Caliper bracket
20 IS disc brake bracket
Only req'd separately bc eBay kit included 1 wrong bracket
That's a really sweet setup. I am still waiting for my front TRP Spyers to show up in the mail as again had some issues with my BB5 setup mostly related to brake rub & simply being noisy.
^^ Nice setup! I had that Axiom rack on my old commuter, really liked that rack.
I will post pics later, but I just set my Wolverine up to ride in a road event - 90 miles start to finish. I swapped in an older 5700 105 group I had, Spyres, and some 32mm Continental Grand Sport Race rubber. Went for a 36 mile test ride, this bike does really well as a road bike too!
I need some advice from fellow Soma Wolverine owners. I have one and I'm thinking I have probably posted way back in this thread LOL as I'm still subscribed to it. I recently set my bike up single speed. Currently my bike has salsa cowbell bars with an 80mm bontrager stem with a 17-degree rise and 45 mm of spacers under the stem. Since I set it up single speed I'm thinking of changing the setup and maybe putting a 70 mm 25 degree stem on. But I'm not sure on this bike how it would feel and react with a stem that short and that high as a SS gravel grinder.Anyone else running a really short stem on a SS wolverine? My salsa Fargo has gears and a very short cockpit but I like it that way. I'm just not sure on this bike in single speed mode if it will feel just as good or be detrimental.
I played around with a bunch of different stem lengths and angles, mine was pretty shreddy with a 70mm stem and wide drops, with 42mm tires. Not single speed, but that doesn't impact handling. I also tried a 90mm stem @ 30degree (I think?), and it was wonky feeling. I was trying to get a set of old WTB Dirt Drops to work, but just couldn't get comfortable. It either was too long but handled well, or good length, but handled like poo. I'm currently using 100mm stem, 7d, with shallow drops in a roadish setup, works excellent for my purpose.
I'm running an 80mm at a 18+ rise, I like it more than the previous stem I had, 90mm +25 rise. I just wish it was 75mm as I found 70mm a tad small. If 70mm works for you the I don't see what issues could arise.
I played around with a bunch of different stem lengths and angles, mine was pretty shreddy with a 70mm stem and wide drops, with 42mm tires. Not single speed, but that doesn't impact handling. I also tried a 90mm stem @ 30degree (I think?), and it was wonky feeling. I was trying to get a set of old WTB Dirt Drops to work, but just couldn't get comfortable. It either was too long but handled well, or good length, but handled like poo. I'm currently using 100mm stem, 7d, with shallow drops in a roadish setup, works excellent for my purpose.
I had a 90 mm x 30 degree rise Ritchey at one time and it actually didn't feel too bad but I was so high up.
Originally Posted by Funoutside
I'm running an 80mm at a 18+ rise, I like it more than the previous stem I had, 90mm +25 rise. I just wish it was 75mm as I found 70mm a tad small. If 70mm works for you the I don't see what issues could arise.
An 80 with enough rise would actually be close to 75 in actual length
The issue is that what I have now (58 frame size, 80 MM Bontrager race lite stem 17 degree rise) feels nice and perfect actually. But after the miles add up and I have been jamming and mashing the hills, my lower back starts to get stiff,tight, and sore. When this happens of course you start falling forward more on your hands. I know people say core exercises and I agree but the stiff back is an issue I have had since I was a young auto mechanic. Anytime I got to working on a car for several hours leaning over the fender, my back would get so stiff I could hardly stand up at first when it was time to go home. I am 6' tall and very flexible but my lower back just gets sore as heck after so long leaning over. I have also noticed a correlation between my lower back muscles and heavy grinding up a hill. It seems that the more I lean forward, the more my lower back seems to engage and do half the work when I am pumping up a steep hill. This goes for geared sitting in the seat or standing and mashing. The more hunched over I am the more it feels like my lumbars are doing the work. I assume this is normal of the human body. But a part of me wonders if I was too upright when I was standing, I may lose power too. IDK
Here's a pic. Currently set up with 36 Wolf Tooth oval and 19 WT stainless rear cog. Yesterdays ride was a test for this project. I went on a 30 mile ride with over 2k of elevation. Most the elevation was on the second half as the first half the ride was more flat. I wasn't yet set up SS but I knew I wanted to so I shifted to the 18T cog and didn't touch my shifter again. I rode 36x18 the whole ride with the drag of the rear derailleur. I didn't have to push a single hill BUT boy there were a few I crept up with one crank revolution every 2 seconds......SLOW! I will get stronger as I ride more but I still wonder if a 20 T cog wouldn't be better for my area. Some gravel hills yesterday were 12-14 percent grade.
Well here's an update. What a difference changing drop bar angle makes. I rotated my hoods downward which flattened out my drops to about a zero degree angle which is how I have my other drop bar bike setup. This moved my drop height up a couple centimeters. Night and day difference.
I had a 90 mm x 30 degree rise Ritchey at one time and it actually didn't feel too bad but I was so high up.
An 80 with enough rise would actually be close to 75 in actual length
The issue is that what I have now (58 frame size, 80 MM Bontrager race lite stem 17 degree rise) feels nice and perfect actually. But after the miles add up and I have been jamming and mashing the hills, my lower back starts to get stiff,tight, and sore. When this happens of course you start falling forward more on your hands. I know people say core exercises and I agree but the stiff back is an issue I have had since I was a young auto mechanic. Anytime I got to working on a car for several hours leaning over the fender, my back would get so stiff I could hardly stand up at first when it was time to go home. I am 6' tall and very flexible but my lower back just gets sore as heck after so long leaning over. I have also noticed a correlation between my lower back muscles and heavy grinding up a hill. It seems that the more I lean forward, the more my lower back seems to engage and do half the work when I am pumping up a steep hill. This goes for geared sitting in the seat or standing and mashing. The more hunched over I am the more it feels like my lumbars are doing the work. I assume this is normal of the human body. But a part of me wonders if I was too upright when I was standing, I may lose power too. IDK
Here's a pic. Currently set up with 36 Wolf Tooth oval and 19 WT stainless rear cog. Yesterdays ride was a test for this project. I went on a 30 mile ride with over 2k of elevation. Most the elevation was on the second half as the first half the ride was more flat. I wasn't yet set up SS but I knew I wanted to so I shifted to the 18T cog and didn't touch my shifter again. I rode 36x18 the whole ride with the drag of the rear derailleur. I didn't have to push a single hill BUT boy there were a few I crept up with one crank revolution every 2 seconds......SLOW! I will get stronger as I ride more but I still wonder if a 20 T cog wouldn't be better for my area. Some gravel hills yesterday were 12-14 percent grade.
Nice! I tried single speed for a little while, definitely not strong enough to ride around here with only one gear. Lots of rides with about the same elevation profile as what you described. Maybe if a little flatter?
It took me quite a few tries to figure out the right stem for this bike for me, especially for the different bar combos I've tried. I have 3 bars I switch between, and I think I've got the stem situation sorted for them. Only took 4 years, haha. In that time though, I've done a couple thousand miles on this bike and keep coming home happy, so worth the effort for me.
Well here's an update. What a difference changing drop bar angle makes. I rotated my hoods downward which flattened out my drops to about a zero degree angle which is how I have my other drop bar bike setup. This moved my drop height up a couple centimeters. Night and day difference.
Bar angle makes a huge difference for me - as does lever placement on the bars. A bit of a pain in the butt to change lever angles if you've already wrapped your bars, but makes a big difference once you get it perfect for your use.
Nice! I tried single speed for a little while, definitely not strong enough to ride around here with only one gear. Lots of rides with about the same elevation profile as what you described. Maybe if a little flatter?
It took me quite a few tries to figure out the right stem for this bike for me, especially for the different bar combos I've tried. I have 3 bars I switch between, and I think I've got the stem situation sorted for them. Only took 4 years, haha. In that time though, I've done a couple thousand miles on this bike and keep coming home happy, so worth the effort for me.
I've been bitten by the SS bug. Man it is so free of extra drag and you have no thoughts of gears. You just ride! Yeah I've had to push one or two but these were hills i could have ridden. I was just super fatigued at the time and didn't have a 42t rear to bail me out. So as i get stronger stuff like this should get better. And honestly I'm not afraid to walk. Plenty of geared riders pedal up hills as slow as you can walk anyways. I know cause I've done it. You know you're spinning up a steep hill when your GPS auto pauses lol!
I've been bitten by the SS bug. Man it is so free of extra drag and you have no thoughts of gears. You just ride! Yeah I've had to push one or two but these were hills i could have ridden. I was just super fatigued at the time and didn't have a 42t rear to bail me out. So as i get stronger stuff like this should get better. And honestly I'm not afraid to walk. Plenty of geared riders pedal up hills as slow as you can walk anyways. I know cause I've done it. You know you're spinning up a steep hill when your GPS auto pauses lol!
True, single speed frees things up to focus more on the ride and less on the equipment for sure. I might mess around and build my bike up as single speed someday, after my current race series finishes this summer perhaps - too many rides with 6k+ ft coming up, haha. Maybe for cross next season? I plan to do the local cross circuit this season, would fun on a SS, and probably a lot easier on equipment...
Hey guys. Just bought my first V1 orange Wolfie frame. Was about to build it as a commuter with belt drive and flat bar. Thinking Alfine 8 with Gates Carbon. Any thoughts on this?
Also, have a pair of WTB Riddler’s 45-622 available, has anyone used these with long mudguards succesfully?
If I remember correctly, support for belt drive started with version 2, but someone else may correct me here.
I'm not 100% sure either. I'm not sure which version mine is. I know it's black and it's belt drive compatible. I'm not sure if they offered black in the version one so I may have a version 2
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Originally Posted by Funoutside
