Soma Wolverine Builds

[wgscott]

Good, high-quality internal-cam quick-releases should be fine. A thru-axle front fork would probably be a bit better. A thru-axle rear probably is not nearly as important.

(If you were starting from scratch, and budget allowed, the V. 4 type A frame would offer that advantage, and the ability to put on a 1.5" taper fork, most of which are now thru-axle. If you were going to spend the money on a pricey fork, I would get a Spork rather than an Enve CX, because it has the attachment points. Neither would fit the v. 2, if I understand correctly.)

If you get a disc-brake compatible quick-release fork, make sure to get one where the dropouts face forward, rather than back, so the braking force is less likely to dislodge the wheel.




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Source: https://cyclingtips.com/2015/10/road...axels-but-why/

[Funoutside]

I already have a frame and fork, v2 to be exact so different frame and fork are a bit out of budget for me. But, I will keep that in mind when it comes to discs, thank you.

[wgscott]

I already have a frame and fork, v2 to be exact so different frame and fork are a bit out of budget for me. But, I will keep that in mind when it comes to discs, thank you.

I think I may have mis-understood what you were asking, but I went through this on my bike, so I guess I was primed.

[Funoutside]

Still useful to know, thank you for the information.

[Funoutside]

Went to a LBS and they had the budget Shimano skewers for $18 for the set, but I was fortunate they had one last set of DTSwiss, which I got for $30ish.

Out of curiosity is anyone running suspension fork, lauf, fox, or any that fits and works? How do you like it? Also, anyone here know if any of the Vittoria 29x2.1 XC tires will fit/work or are they a bit on the large size?

[Funoutside]

double post please delete.

[Funoutside]

Will CST Jack Rabbit 29x2.1 fit? Thinking about ordering some as price is very tempting.

[Funoutside]

Anyone here riding with the Condor bars, either v1 or v2? How do you like it?

[Crash_FLMB]

No I haven't tried the Condors. I started with the Gators and they are fantastic for stability going downhill but they pushed me out too far. I just switched to the Salsa Cowchippers and while not quite as stable going downhill, they are really nice so far. I only have a few hours on them so time will tell but I think I'll really like them. I'm not as stretched out which makes the bike more comfortable for me.

[Funoutside]

Does the cowchipper bring you down more vs the Gators? I currently not a fan of how low I am when going downhill, not a comfortable position. Was thinking Jones bar, but was also suggested I check out the Condor bars and honestly it does look interesting. Handling is a concern with going the Jones, Moloko, or VO Crazy Bar route, and why I am seeing if anyone here has one of the Condor bar variants on their Wolverine.

[Crash_FLMB]

Does the cowchipper bring you down more vs the Gators? I currently not a fan of how low I am when going downhill, not a comfortable position. Was thinking Jones bar, but was also suggested I check out the Condor bars and honestly it does look interesting. Handling is a concern with going the Jones, Moloko, or VO Crazy Bar route, and why I am seeing if anyone here has one of the Condor bar variants on their Wolverine.

The Gators have a much deeper drop and farther reach than the Cows. However, when holding the curve position, the Gators are more comfy. Ultimately, I needed something with more flat on top, Gators have very little top flat bar, and not so long in the drops.

Not sure that helps but that's my experience so far. My roadie has completely different bars so what do I know.

Sent from my LM-G710VM using Tapatalk

[Funoutside]

It has been helpful. May also have to check out the Gators now too.

[Funoutside]

Out of curiosity anyone running a non-Soma steel fork, like an All-City or Surly, on their Wolverine? Or a suspension fork, like the lauf or fox 32 gravel model? How is it?

[Funoutside]

Any suggestions on a hex/lock nut? I am still using the regular ones that I got from the hardware store and it's not staying fully tight. I ordered new screws(20) from amazon, but looking to get a stronger nut to match. I didn't see anything good at my local Home Depot or lumber store.

[doismellbacon]

Any suggestions on a hex/lock nut? I am still using the regular ones that I got from the hardware store and it's not staying fully tight. I ordered new screws(20) from amazon, but looking to get a stronger nut to match. I didn't see anything good at my local Home Depot or lumber store.

Have you stripped the threads on the nut? If so, you can get higher "class" nuts and bolts so that you can apply more torque without stripping them. The differences in hardware "grades" (SAE) vs "Classes" (metric) can be a little confusing. Here's a link that explains it....
https://www.fastenermart.com/underst...d-classes.html

Home Depot is generally not the best source for "oddball" bolts, which is what most small metric high strength bike-related bolts would be considered in 'Murica, but you probably have an industrial supply place like American Bolt near you unless you're way out in the sticks.

If it's not an issue of stripping threads, then you can apply more torque, put some blue loctite on the threads, or use two nuts, one torqued down to the dropout like normal, and a second one locked against the first, for some extra holding power.

This is just general mechanical info... I haven't had any issues with the hardware on my Soma loosening up... somebody else may have something to add more specific to this bike that I'm not thinking of, but I think the basic concepts are sound regardless of what kind of machine you're talking about.

[Funoutside]

It's not stripped, just got loose. I had a bike shop tighten it up for me(don't have tq-wrench). I will get some loctite to have the shop retighten it. The screws currently on the bike uses a Phillips head to tighten, but this new one is stainless steel and uses an m5 key to tighten. Thank you for the reply.

[SpeedyStein]

It's not stripped, just got loose. I had a bike shop tighten it up for me(don't have tq-wrench). I will get some loctite to have the shop retighten it. The screws currently on the bike uses a Phillips head to tighten, but this new one is stainless steel and uses an m5 key to tighten. Thank you for the reply.

Which bolts are you having trouble with? Most frame/cockpit bolts aren't particularly torque sensitive, unless you are using delicate carbon parts.

I saw you asking about handlebars and tires for this bike above - I've tried a lot! Haha. I have settled on a flat bar build for mine for now, an Easton Monkey bar, I think it's 660mm or so wide, with a 100mm stem. I still have a 44cm Ritchey Evo Max road bar ready to suit up too if the mood suits - the brakes, shifter, and 70mm stem are all still connected so it makes for a pretty quick transition. For me, and my fit preferences, those seem to be about the sweet spot, but I think I have a kinda long torso and shortish legs for my height. I'm 5'11" and ride a 54cm Wolvie, for reference.

For tires, I've run 35mm WTB Cross Boss, 2.25 WTB Nine Lines, 42mm WTB Resolute, 40mm Kenda Happy Medium, and 32mm Continental Grand Race slicks, all in 700c/29er. I think my next tires are going to be something a bit smoother than the Resolute, maybe a file tread of some sort, in around a 700x42mm size.

[Funoutside]

Having issues with the m5 limit screws for the sliding dropouts. For tires I am running 29x1.95 Kenda karma sport on WTB 21i laserdisc rims but trying out 27.5x2.2 WTB BeeLine on 25 width Alex rim DC4. I got the new screws in the mail and it looks solid vs the current ones that came with the frame(bought it off craigslist). I am hoping this keeps the dropouts from moving and causing the rear tires when a bit loose to hit the frame.

[SpeedyStein]

Having issues with the m5 limit screws for the sliding dropouts. For tires I am running 29x1.95 Kenda karma sport on WTB 21i laserdisc rims but trying out 27.5x2.2 WTB BeeLine on 25 width Alex rim DC4. I got the new screws in the mail and it looks solid vs the current ones that came with the frame(bought it off craigslist). I am hoping this keeps the dropouts from moving and causing the rear tires when a bit loose to hit the frame.

Ah, it took a little work to get my limit screws to stay in place too - I used a small end wrench (8mm I think? - it was a while ago) to tighten the heck out of the nut against the frame. Otherwise they would loosen and fall out, haha.
I actually rode for a few months without them attached to the bike - they don't do much. The other side of this is the dropouts should be torqued tightly enough to completely restrict their motion. I have no idea what value mine are torqued to, but I am confident it is a fair bit more than specified on the sliding plate. I figure that I don't want it skipping whole riding, so I basically took it as far as I dare, keeping in mind that too far would create a failure. I'm pretty sure the only reason those tiny screws are on for limit stops is for fine adjustment prior to torquing the sliders.

Tires with this bike are a double edge sword - it will fit quite large tires, but tires that big take all the fun out of it. I feel like 700x42mm is about the sweet spot for me - enough volume to soak up chatter but still light and short enough to make the bike light and nimble. I didn't care for the bigger tires because I had to slide the dropouts all the way to fit them, which made the bike feel sluggish and heavy. The larger diameter also threw off the front geometry, further contributing to this problem.

[Funoutside]

I just moved to new-ish looking 27.5x2.2(got the rim and tire combo for a very good deal on ebay) and really like it a bit better than 29 I was running. The lower bb fits me a bit better, and maybe it's a placebo(or the tires) but I feel it's a bit better in the turns. It doesn't hurt that 27.5 is a bit easier to climb with than 29. I may change the 29 tires from a 1.95 to something in the 38-40 range so I can have a set for rides that are more road-oriented than gravel.

[SpeedyStein]

I just moved to new-ish looking 27.5x2.2(got the rim and tire combo for a very good deal on ebay) and really like it a bit better than 29 I was running. The lower bb fits me a bit better, and maybe it's a placebo(or the tires) but I feel it's a bit better in the turns. It doesn't hurt that 27.5 is a bit easier to climb with than 29. I may change the 29 tires from a 1.95 to something in the 38-40 range so I can have a set for rides that are more road-oriented than gravel.

Right on, glad to hear the 27.5 is working out for you. I haven't tried that wheel size on mine yet, but I've heard many success stories. Where are your dropouts with that tire size? I have seen plenty of pictures of Wolverines with 27.5x2.1 tires and dropouts all the way forward, but I don't think I've seen any with 27.5 tires bigger than that.

[Funoutside]

I think the max the Wolverine can hold is 2.2 in either size. I am close to the back for the slightly more table handling, but also just in case I want to ride 29 tire setup again or running 29x38

[SpeedyStein]

I think the max the Wolverine can hold is 2.2 in either size. I am close to the back for the slightly more table handling, but also just in case I want to ride 29 tire setup again or running 29x38

Yeah, when I had the 29x2.25 Nine Lines on, I was definitely all the way at the back - was just curious if a 2.2 27.5 would require the same. Alternatively, with 700x42 I am all the way forward, which really makes the bike much more lively. I didn't think it would have such an impact, but it is pretty profound. One this is for sure though, with those big 2.25 tires tubeless running like 25psi, I absolutely floated over everything! Like riding an orange cloud monster truck, haha

[Funoutside]

Yeah I have the Bee Line(27.5 version of the nine) and it rolls nicely. So did my 29er with Kenda Karma Sports, but those felt a bit heavier.