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  1. #401
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    ^ looks cool. Just curious, what RD and shifter are you using?
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    Stop asking how much it weighs and just go ride it.

  2. #402
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    Thanks! Its a Microshift 11spd bar end MTB ratio shifter mated to an XT rd. Awesome combo, works perfectly without any adaptors.

  3. #403
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    Quote Originally Posted by Biggus Duckus View Post
    Here's my latest build

    Very sharp! What size tires are you running and what width rim are they mounted on?

  4. #404
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    My recent tour, build up on Friday, start tour on Sunday.

    Soma Wolverine Builds-wolvie-tour01.jpgSoma Wolverine Builds-wolvie-tour02.jpgSoma Wolverine Builds-wolvie-tour03.jpg
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  5. #405
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    Quote Originally Posted by WarPigs View Post
    My recent tour, build up on Friday, start tour on Sunday.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Looks good! Are those the 50mm Cazaderos?

  6. #406
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    nopes, the 42mm Cazadero, offroad is ok on some smooth black diamond trails, I push my bike down the gnarly rock garden.Soma Wolverine Builds-wolvie-chestnut-north.jpg
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  7. #407
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    Soma Wolverine Builds-dsc_0486.jpgSoma Wolverine Builds-dsc_0489.jpgSoma Wolverine Builds-dsc_0492.jpgSoma Wolverine Builds-dsc_0496.jpgSoma Wolverine Builds-dsc_0490.jpg
    Last edited by Windjammer; 11-10-2017 at 08:12 PM.
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  8. #408
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    ^ Nice setup! I just ordered my Wolverine frame, and my SS wheels I recently built have Blue hubs. I was thinking about doing some more Blue stuff but I have no intention if trying to compete with that! I dig it though
    Rigid SS 29er
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    Stop asking how much it weighs and just go ride it.

  9. #409
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    Quote Originally Posted by *OneSpeed* View Post
    I just ordered my Wolverine frame
    What convinced you to go with the frame after all? I was selling bikes to make place for a wolverine, but then the whole broken rear-triangle-thing happened. Iíve not reached the point were Iím convinced since I have a few alternatives but all are different bikes..

  10. #410
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    Quote Originally Posted by almlof View Post
    What convinced you to go with the frame after all? I was selling bikes to make place for a wolverine, but then the whole broken rear-triangle-thing happened. Iíve not reached the point were Iím convinced since I have a few alternatives but all are different bikes..
    My love of the Monstercross genre, nice steel tubing, ample tire clearance, and the new version 2.1 has braces at the back which should eliminate the cracking issue. It looks like SS adjustment will be more of a pain, I just hope they left room to get a wrench in there. I break frames a lot, apparently, so if it fails I hope they stand behind it. Only one way to find out
    Rigid SS 29er
    SS 29+
    Fat Lefty
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    Full Sus 29er (Yuck)

    Stop asking how much it weighs and just go ride it.

  11. #411
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    Quote Originally Posted by *OneSpeed* View Post
    My love of the Monstercross genre, nice steel tubing, ample tire clearance, and the new version 2.1 has braces at the back which should eliminate the cracking issue. It looks like SS adjustment will be more of a pain, I just hope they left room to get a wrench in there. I break frames a lot, apparently, so if it fails I hope they stand behind it. Only one way to find out
    The braces just looks awful to me, but if they could prevent the cracking thing, well thatís great. One would hope if that wasnít the case, Soma fab would pull the frame.. f it, I think Iíll get on as well. The only thing holding me back is that I donít wanna go higher than size 58.. but I probably should.

  12. #412
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    Quote Originally Posted by SpeedyStein View Post
    So I fitted a Rawland Raidoverks Rando Rack on the front on my Wolverine today - I can dig it! It's a very sturdy small rack that should hold a basket, small bag, or 6 pack pretty easily.
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    Nice build! Are those Hope calipers mated to Sram hydro levers? I like the belt drive idea, haven't seen many Wolverines setup that way, but I can dig it.

  13. #413
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    The issue is the dropouts, not the chainstays. The braces don't do anything.

  14. #414
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    Hi, yep it's sram hydro rival mated to Hope calipers. I removed the shifter from the levers. A soma wolverine was simply one of the few non-custom options for a versatile steel belt drive single speed. My understanding of the drop-out or chainstay issue is people sliding the drop-outs past the chainstay length limit specified by soma--440mm--and so soma had to add the ugly gussets because stupid.
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  15. #415
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    Yeah, the braces look pretty silly, and don't look like they would really fix the problem. If SOMA didn't want people to slide the dropouts all the way back, they shouldn't have designed it to slide that far back. Oh well, can't change the design once it's built. I'm curious what portion of frames sold have broken...? Wondering how at risk I am...

  16. #416
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    Quote Originally Posted by SpeedyStein View Post
    Yeah, the braces look pretty silly, and don't look like they would really fix the problem. If SOMA didn't want people to slide the dropouts all the way back, they shouldn't have designed it to slide that far back. Oh well, can't change the design once it's built. I'm curious what portion of frames sold have broken...? Wondering how at risk I am...
    So are you saying when the drop outs are maxed out there is too much stress on the welds? That makes sense..I don't run mine all the way back.....More like midway. I suppose the same could be said for all their bikes as my B Side has the same set up. I don't run them all the way back either.

  17. #417
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    Quote Originally Posted by Windjammer View Post
    Hi, yep it's sram hydro rival mated to Hope calipers. I removed the shifter from the levers. A soma wolverine was simply one of the few non-custom options for a versatile steel belt drive single speed.
    That's a pretty neat trick - well done. I didn't think about mixing levers and calipers to get to a specific combo.

  18. #418
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    there's not much of a choice. only sram or shimano are compatible, and the caliper has to match. I like sram fine, but the hope fittings and hoses don't fit the sram lever. I'm not sure if shimano would be any different in that regard. The sram lever feels great with this caliper, and attaching it is actually very simple.
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  19. #419
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    Quote Originally Posted by iowamtb View Post
    So are you saying when the drop outs are maxed out there is too much stress on the welds? That makes sense..I don't run mine all the way back.....More like midway. I suppose the same could be said for all their bikes as my B Side has the same set up. I don't run them all the way back either.
    Soma's issue is sliding the dropouts all the way back allowed riders to use 2.0-2.2 mtb tires and ride the bike more aggressively, outside of its designed parameters which caused breakage.

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  20. #420
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    That's still a lousy design. If the dropouts can slide that far, they should be designed to take that stress.

    Quote Originally Posted by Guy.Ford View Post
    Soma's issue is sliding the dropouts all the way back allowed riders to use 2.0-2.2 mtb tires and ride the bike more aggressively, outside of its designed parameters which caused breakage.

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  21. #421
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    Quote Originally Posted by Guy.Ford View Post
    Soma's issue is sliding the dropouts all the way back allowed riders to use 2.0-2.2 mtb tires and ride the bike more aggressively, outside of its designed parameters which caused breakage.

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    AHHHH well maybe that's why I haven't had any trouble. Honestly I slid my drop outs back for this reason but I noticed with the hour glass flare of the chain stay, it looks like a larger tire will only fit if you run it in the middle. If you slide it all the way back, the middle of your tires sidewall will be riding right where the narrowest part of the chain stay crosses it. I want the fattest part of the tire to ride in the "lightbulb" looking area of the stay. Not sure if this makes sense but it does if you look at the bike. Besides that I don't take this bike crazy off roading. I just ride gravel on both my bikes and if any single track is in the plan I take my B Side.

  22. #422
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    I just ordered a new 2.1 version with the ugly braces. I promise to pound the snot out of this thing. I seem to have a knack for breaking stuff, frames included, so we'll see how it holds up.

    I ride my poor cross bike on some very punishing single track (for a cross bike). I definitely take it places it was never meant to go. The new Wolverine will take it's place for off-road shenanigans.

    I agree the braces are a band-aid on a poor design. We'll see how it holds up.
    Rigid SS 29er
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    Stop asking how much it weighs and just go ride it.

  23. #423
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    Quote Originally Posted by seat_boy View Post
    That's still a lousy design. If the dropouts can slide that far, they should be designed to take that stress.
    Fully agree.

  24. #424
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    Quote Originally Posted by Guy.Ford View Post
    Soma's issue is sliding the dropouts all the way back allowed riders to use 2.0-2.2 mtb tires and ride the bike more aggressively, outside of its designed parameters which caused breakage.

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    This. I fit 2.25 Nine Lines on mine. They barely squeezed between the stays, and I certainly wouldn't ride it in the mud like this (not again anyway). That said, those huge tires took all the off-road fun of this bike completely away. It's just a big luxo liner commuter now. The tires forced an increased chainstay length, which increased the overall wheelbase, and also impacted the trail - the combination of these made it super stable and comfy, but took all of the "twitch" out of it.
    Last edited by SpeedyStein; 11-18-2017 at 09:18 AM.

  25. #425
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    Quote Originally Posted by iowamtb View Post
    AHHHH well maybe that's why I haven't had any trouble. Honestly I slid my drop outs back for this reason but I noticed with the hour glass flare of the chain stay, it looks like a larger tire will only fit if you run it in the middle. If you slide it all the way back, the middle of your tires sidewall will be riding right where the narrowest part of the chain stay crosses it. I want the fattest part of the tire to ride in the "lightbulb" looking area of the stay. Not sure if this makes sense but it does if you look at the bike. Besides that I don't take this bike crazy off roading. I just ride gravel on both my bikes and if any single track is in the plan I take my B Side.
    It does make sense, but I needed mine all the way back for clearance with the chainstay bridge. I suppose it would probably depend on the tire too... With a flatter crown, they could probably be run further forward. The Happy Medium or Riddler come to mind- file tread center and knobby outsides.

  26. #426
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    Using a thru axle wheel would help, however they do not offer a compatible dropout that is covered under warranty.

  27. #427
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    Bikepacking on the soma is still preferred over my mountain bike

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  28. #428
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    New IRD Dropouts

    Soma Wolverine Builds-ird_dropout.jpg

    I saw some pictures of the next wolverine prototype leaked on Instagram recently and it looks like someone at IRD finally got around to designing a new sliding dropout tab. If you ask me this should have happened a year ago, but at least they've admitted the old design had some problems. I assume they'll offer thru axle tabs as well, although it looks like the same dropouts so you should still be able to run Paragon parts too. Hopefully they will start producing these right away, but realistically I would guess they wont show up on frames for at least 6 to 8 months.

  29. #429
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    ^ ugh, I just bought the new version with the brace. I probably would have waited had I known, where was this post 3 weeks ago???? JK

    Good to see they have a new design, if mine cracks I hope they replace it with that ^.

    It's a lot better looking than the stupid brace on my frame. Plus it slightly interferes with the adjustment screw. Oh well.
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  30. #430
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    Those drouputs look quite a bit different than the current Wolverine dropouts. The seatstay attaches at mid-sliding part, vice at the front like the current one. They only have one eyelet, vice two. I really like that the chainstay attaches slightly lower than the dropout, which will hopefully reduce chainslap by getting it further from the chain. Mine drove me nuts unitl I put on a clutch derailleur.

    One improvement that hopefully happened - increase space between non drove side sliding part and the eyelet. I have a rear rack to carry my kids baby seat on the rear of my wolverine, and aboslutely hate how if I have the dropouts anywhere except all the way back, I can't put a nut of the back of the eyey for extra security.

    Honestly though, the best improvement they could make is to use a regular standard dropout. It would solve all the design problems with the sliding dropout. I know it would single out the single speed and IGH guys, but would make it a better bike for the rest of us. Maybe make both types?

  31. #431
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    That's a lot better design. It now looks a lot like the Spot Rocker dropout, where the loads aren't nearly as cantilevered out there:

    Soma Wolverine Builds-rockerss29_01_2x.jpg
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  32. #432
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    so what is the difference in the wheelbase length?
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  33. #433
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    Quote Originally Posted by SpeedyStein View Post
    Those drouputs look quite a bit different than the current Wolverine dropouts. The seatstay attaches at mid-sliding part, vice at the front like the current one. They only have one eyelet, vice two. I really like that the chainstay attaches slightly lower than the dropout, which will hopefully reduce chainslap by getting it further from the chain. Mine drove me nuts unitl I put on a clutch derailleur.

    One improvement that hopefully happened - increase space between non drove side sliding part and the eyelet. I have a rear rack to carry my kids baby seat on the rear of my wolverine, and aboslutely hate how if I have the dropouts anywhere except all the way back, I can't put a nut of the back of the eyey for extra security.

    Honestly though, the best improvement they could make is to use a regular standard dropout. It would solve all the design problems with the sliding dropout. I know it would single out the single speed and IGH guys, but would make it a better bike for the rest of us. Maybe make both types?
    So basically this? Or do you also want thru axles?

    Soma Wolverine Builds-soma_sagadisc_graphite_wfork_1200.jpg

  34. #434
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    DC have less clearance for tires
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  35. #435
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    No sliders? I wouldn't have bought this frame without sliders, or some way to tension a chain. Track ends work too. My most recent SS has Paragon swingers/rockers. There's no adjustment screw for fine adjustments when centering the wheel, but it works just fine and is supposed to be the strongest according to my frame builder.

    TA's would be a welcome addition. 12mm front and rear please. Not a deal breaker though, I'll be using bolt on hubs.

    While we're making requests that will never happen, can I have a 44mm headtube too?
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    Quote Originally Posted by WarPigs View Post
    DC have less clearance for tires
    I bet they kill the DC next year. Nobody is buying loaded touring frames with rim brakes these days.

    "Our robust Saga Disc frame set is ready to take you on adventures all over the planet, It is purposely designed to ride better loaded up than naked. This updated version now fits tires up to 2.1", but the 700c models will longer fit road triple cranks. We recommend using MTB triples or doubles, which make more sense more cyclists go to wider, more sure-footed tires. - Specially chosen Tange Prestige heat-treated CrMo tubing; 31.8mm butted downtube and top tube for a stiffer front triangle. Larger frames have slightly thicker gauge tubing."

    Saga Disc Frame Set | SOMA Fabrications

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    Sounds like the Salsa Marrakesh

  38. #438
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    Hey folks, haven't checked in on this thread in quite a while. 2.5 years now on my Wolverine and going strong. I'm wanting to add a rear rack, preferably one that's powder coated black and not ridiculously expensive... Anybody have any advice for what works or what to avoid? I'm running TRP mechanical brakes, no fenders... if either of those matter for fitment. Thanks in advance!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Evan Bacon View Post
    I bet they kill the DC next year. Nobody is buying loaded touring frames with rim brakes these days.

    "Our robust Saga Disc frame set is ready to take you on adventures all over the planet, It is purposely designed to ride better loaded up than naked. This updated version now fits tires up to 2.1", but the 700c models will longer fit road triple cranks. We recommend using MTB triples or doubles, which make more sense more cyclists go to wider, more sure-footed tires. - Specially chosen Tange Prestige heat-treated CrMo tubing; 31.8mm butted downtube and top tube for a stiffer front triangle. Larger frames have slightly thicker gauge tubing."

    Saga Disc Frame Set | SOMA Fabrications

    I am slightly surprised they kept the Saga... since there seems to be a lot of overlap between the new Saga and the Wolverine. Geo is a fair bit different, the Saga seems to have a more upright fit. I am very curious about the tubing spec of one vs the other. I would love to ride them back to back with the same kit, just to see how fit/feel is between them. Kinda surprised how long the chainstays are on the Saga too - 450mm is really long, even for a touring bike. I guess that is how they can promise 29x2.1 will fit, and still be able to run a double crankset.



    To answer your earlier question - It depends.

    If my chainstays broke next week, and SOMA was warrantying my frame, I would probably ask for a Double Cross instead of a Wolverine. The decision point would be tough, because I like being able to run bigger tires. If I could be sure the WTB Resolute tires would fit in the Double Cross with proper clearance, that would definitely be my choice. However, all reports I hear about those tires is they plump to a bit larger than the advertised 42mm... which means I would be getting really close to the clearances advertised for the Double Cross, and I don't really want smaller tires than those.


    If I was building a new bike from scratch, I would look for a design optimized for a range of 700x40 to 700x60 tires, thru axles (15mm front 12mm rear), roughly the same dimensions as the wolverine but with a slightly longer headtube, slightly shorter chainstays, slightly higher BB, and much stiffer fork than original Wolverine. Better braze on locations are also needed.

    More on braze ons:
    1. The cable stop on the chainstay on my Wolverine drives me nuts. I am always rubbing my heel on the cable. Put it directly on the bottom, not on the side!
    2. I love having two sets of braze ons on the fork, but put them close enough together to put a bottle cage on them. That way, run a top and/or low rider rack, or run two extra bottles/anything cages.
    3. The top tube rear brake cable run kinda sucks - I wish it was on the downtube. I know, with the brake on the outside of the chainstay, it had to go there for clean cabling.
    4. The bottle cage bolts are awfully low in the frame triangle. I had a hard time finding two cages that would fit there together - the two I originally had would not. I know, frame bag clearance and all... but if I am running a frame bag, I am probably not running bottle cages. Moving just one of them 3mm further up would make it a lot easier to fit two bottle cages without them rubbing together.

    On the tire size: I ride mostly pavement. Rough, Oakland pavement. I ride through parts of town where I really don't want a flat tire. When I do ride offroad on this bike, I tend to ride dry, dusty, cow/weather pocked fire roads - bumpy is an understatement sometimes. That's why I run 29 x 2.25 Ninelines on my Wolverine now - give me all the float I can fit, without huge knobs to slow me down on the road. I would love to squeeze those tires into a bike with just slightly shorter chainstays and a smidge less BB drop to make it just a tad more fun with tires that big.


    Anyway, I guess that is the inner workings of my mind and the bike I would be most in love with. I will be honest, I get a lot more time to think about my bike than I do to ride it. I spend 6-7 months deployed every year, and I usually travel quite a bit when I'm not deployed. I average roughly 1500 miles/year between 3 bikes, and the Wolverine gets the lion's share of those miles on my commute. It does the job of 3 bikes, and this versatility is why I built it in the first place. It commutes, it does mixed terrain rides, and it goes around the neighborhood with my kids, usually with my daughter riding in the baby seat on the back. For all of those jobs, it performs admirably.

  40. #440
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    Quote Originally Posted by doismellbacon View Post
    Hey folks, haven't checked in on this thread in quite a while. 2.5 years now on my Wolverine and going strong. I'm wanting to add a rear rack, preferably one that's powder coated black and not ridiculously expensive... Anybody have any advice for what works or what to avoid? I'm running TRP mechanical brakes, no fenders... if either of those matter for fitment. Thanks in advance!

    I have the Blackburn EX-1 on mine, TRP Spyres, no fenders. It fits very well. With the sliders all the way back, I can fit a nut on the inside of the eyelet for extra security. With the sliders further forward, there isn't clearance for a nut.

    https://www.blackburndesign.com/rack...ex-1-rack.html

    Pretty basic, nearly bulletproof. I use this one because it fits my daughters co-pilot baby seat. It also works very well with panniers, trunks, etc.


    Soma Wolverine Builds-wolverine.jpg

  41. #441
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    How my bike got so dirty for the picture above!
    Soma Wolverine Builds-wolverine2.jpg
    Soma Wolverine Builds-wolverine3.jpg

  42. #442
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    Hi,

    I'm planning on building up a wolverine with 700c x 48mm Soma Supple Vitesse Ex tubeless tires. Can anyone recommend some fenders that will fit with these tires? What's the maximum sized fenders that will fit in the Wolverine?

  43. #443
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    So apparently Soma announced the V3.0 frame will soon be available with the new dropouts and no ugly braces.

    I'm thrilled personally. I love that my new frame is obsolete before it's even built.

    Awesome.
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    Stop asking how much it weighs and just go ride it.

  44. #444
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    Quote Originally Posted by Psycho1 View Post
    Bikepacking on the soma is still preferred over my mountain bike

    Sent from my LG-H901 using Tapatalk
    I bikepacked once on my Wolvie. It rode so nice. The issue I have is I don't have much seat to tire clearance. In other words my seat post is not extended very high. On my MTB though I have the post extended really high so I could squeeze a car tire behind the seat if I wanted to lol.

  45. #445
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    Planning on getting a wolverine frame. Looking to run 29x2.00 tires. my understanding the lugged fork has clearance for 2.00. Does the soma carbon fork fit a 2.00? Does anyone run another carbon fork that will take 2.00 to 2.2 29er tires?

  46. #446
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    The Soma Carbon Gravel fork only clears 40c tires.
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    Stop asking how much it weighs and just go ride it.

  47. #447
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    Quote Originally Posted by iowamtb View Post
    I bikepacked once on my Wolvie. It rode so nice. The issue I have is I don't have much seat to tire clearance. In other words my seat post is not extended very high. On my MTB though I have the post extended really high so I could squeeze a car tire behind the seat if I wanted to lol.
    I have tons of space, less space on my mountain bike.. And the soma handles the weight really nice

    Sent from my LG-H901 using Tapatalk

  48. #448
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    The new V3.0 is now up on Soma's website.
    Wolverine v.3.0 Frame | SOMA Fabrications

  49. #449
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    Quote Originally Posted by rzldzl View Post
    The new V3.0 is now up on Soma's website.
    Wolverine v.3.0 Frame | SOMA Fabrications
    Pretty cool!

  50. #450
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    I'm currently debating a few bikes but a Wolverine is on the list. I plan to run a 1X drivetrain, is there any chain ring clearance issues? I'm also strongly considering a Double Cross.

  51. #451
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    Quote Originally Posted by ALS650L View Post
    I'm currently debating a few bikes but a Wolverine is on the list. I plan to run a 1X drivetrain, is there any chain ring clearance issues? I'm also strongly considering a Double Cross.
    No. I ran a 42 no problems

  52. #452
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    Quote Originally Posted by ALS650L View Post
    I'm currently debating a few bikes but a Wolverine is on the list. I plan to run a 1X drivetrain, is there any chain ring clearance issues? I'm also strongly considering a Double Cross.
    I have an ultegra crankset on mine, originally with 46-36, now with 40t wolf tooth elliptical, no issues whatsoever. Could probably run a 44t or 46t wolf tooth without issue, and they are offset inboard quite a bit.

  53. #453
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    Quote Originally Posted by SpeedyStein View Post
    I have an ultegra crankset on mine, originally with 46-36, now with 40t wolf tooth elliptical, no issues whatsoever. Could probably run a 44t or 46t wolf tooth without issue, and they are offset inboard quite a bit.
    I was thinking since such large road doubles would fit that a pretty large single would be fine. I couldn't find any mention of max size but saw posts with folks running in the 36-40 range.

  54. #454
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    Quote Originally Posted by ALS650L View Post
    I was thinking since such large road doubles would fit that a pretty large single would be fine. I couldn't find any mention of max size but saw posts with folks running in the 36-40 range.
    I think it would depend on chainline, and whether you mounted a single to the inside or outside of the spider.

    Soma Wolverine Builds-20180114_104209.jpg

    That's at the most oval part of my chainring, and it has about 5mm from the chainstay perpendicular to the chainline, and at least 8 or so parallel with the chainline, if that makes sense. Again, ultegra crank with wolf tooth ring, so my chainline is somewhat between inner and outer rings on standard road double. With a race face or other ring that doesn't offset inboard, you could definitely use a much larger ring.

  55. #455
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    I ran a race face crankset with a 38 tooth in the middle position no problem. I upgraded to s Sram Rival crankset with a 42 round and it too was no problem. Currently on the Rival set I have a Wolf Tooth 36 oval

  56. #456
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    I ran a Stylo MTB crank with 46t in the center ring. One driveside spacer in the bottom bracket. It cleared.

    Warrantied my frameset. hope to have the new one here in a week or two. Went with pearl black.

  57. #457
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    Quote Originally Posted by Agwan View Post
    Warrantied my frameset. hope to have the new one here in a week or two. Went with pearl black.
    Dang, did you have the dreaded chainstay snap? Or some other issue? You had yours for a long time, did Soma give you a hard time about the warranty claim?

  58. #458
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    Mine didn't snap, but it was one of the first 100 they ever built. So it's at a really high risk. But the paint started falling off the decals almost immediately after I got it. It flaked off really bad at the sliders and rack mounts. My seat tube was 27.3+ and the post kept slipping. And the sliders weren't aligned.

    Still loved the bike. but the eventual crack that was coming my way made it all too much. Mary didn't reply to my Emails... much as the person before her didn't either. So I called her, once I got her on the line She was very polite and I was well taken care of. She even helped me by sizing my frame up a size, as I've lost a lot of weight since I first bought the Wolverine, and now ride a larger frame.

    Knock on wood, because I don't have my replacement frame yet, but my old frame won't even get to them until 1/17 ish.

    For now I'm on another Straggler, which we joke about. because my last 4 bikes will now be...

    Black Straggler (Warrantied for VERY crooked drop outs)
    Orange Wolverine (Warrantied for many things)
    Mint Straggler (Still going strong.)
    Black Wolverine (Incoming.)

    In the long run the Straggler will be my flat bar shorter distance tank, and the Wolverine will be my drop bar long commute-Short tourer. I intend to keep both for very different tasks.

    I really miss my Wolverine. I'll be happy to get it back, minus the worries the old frame gave me.

  59. #459
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    Yeah, I've noticed the paint on mine isn't too durable, but at least the places that have chipped off have been my own fault. My dropouts are also about 1/8 of an inch off from one another, but I can still get the wheel straight and even between the stays, and it rolls straight, so not a big deal to me. The seat tube would be very frustrating.

    I hope your luck improves on your next one! The new black looks great too!

  60. #460
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    GREAT NEWS - Soma now has 12mm dropouts for Wolverine

    So I just got an email follow up on one I sent back in Dec 2017 inquiring about 12mm dropouts, telling me that Soma now has 12mm dropouts for the Wolverine frames. Dropouts will fit V1-current and come in Shimano or DT Swiss axle flavors.

    Call 1-800-245-9959 to order

    Soma Wolverine Builds-complete.jpg
    #THELEGENDMTB
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  61. #461
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    ^ UUGGHH. I just placed an order for a fancy bolt on hub yesterday. The hits just keep coming.
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    Stop asking how much it weighs and just go ride it.

  62. #462
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    Quote Originally Posted by *OneSpeed* View Post
    ^ UUGGHH. I just placed an order for a fancy bolt on hub yesterday. The hits just keep coming.
    Dang, sorry to hear that. Is your hub convertible?

    In similar vein, the Paragon sliders fit in the Wolverine dropouts also... Soma used to list the part numbers on their website.

  63. #463
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    Yes it's convertible, it's a Hadley Ti bolt on hub, but I'm not buying new dropouts and a conversion kit. It will be just fine the way it is, I just hate that I missed all this by a few weeks and it's all changing before I have the damn thing built.

    It will be just fine though, it won't be different enough that I'm willing to do anything about it at this point. Unless the frame breaks, then I hope I'll get a free new one, but we'll cross that bridge when we come to it.
    Rigid SS 29er
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    Stop asking how much it weighs and just go ride it.

  64. #464
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    I did the paragon 12mm axle. It was pretty fantastic. Upgraded with titanium hardware. Probably a reason why my Wolverine hadn't cracked yet.

    Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

  65. #465
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    I wish I could upgrade my hub, I would have a thru axle setup on there tomorrow, along with the thru axle fork to match. But, old XT hubs can't be converted. Oh well. I have my wish list for my next bike, should something happen to this one.

  66. #466
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    So after a few rides on the WTB Resolutes, I'm pretty convinced that these tires were made for the Wolverine. Excellent tires on every surface. They roll fast on pavement, dirt, gravel, mud, you name it. Traction is incredible in all situations. Corners well on both dirt and pavement, no weird transition between knobs or squirm. The more I ride these tires, the more I love them.

    And they look the business with the tanwall! And I can slide the dropouts all the way forward!

    Soma Wolverine Builds-20180120_165859.jpg

  67. #467
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    Did you go with the Venturemax bars?

  68. #468
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    How did I not see this thread until now? So awesome!

    Soma Wolverine Builds-img_20180324_140315071.jpg

    Was experimenting with a 26" Trigon carbon fork. They fit the 42mm Soma Cazaderos fine.

    Love this frame, I have like 4 wheelsets for it. LOL.
    Bikes, lots'o bikes

  69. #469
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    I'm looking for a new bike to replace the Salsa Fargo I've sold a while back. I've been eying on a Wolverine for a possible contender. Want a bike that's fun and fast off road (nothing crazy, mostly gravel and light singletrack), but has a more 'aggressive', roadbike-like geometry.

    BUT, I also want to have it as my touring bike, so it has to be able to take (biggish) loads. I wonder how the Wolverine handles loads. Has anyone used it in a full touring setup (front + rear racks/panniers)? How does it handle? Is it (frame as well as the fork) stiff enough?

    The All-City Gorilla Monsoon is also a bike I've looked at. It's quite a bit more expensive though and doesn't have sliding dropouts.

    Any thoughts?
    ''Anybody who thinks wood isn't magnetic, hasn't ridden a bike in the forest.''

  70. #470
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    wolverine v3.0

    just finished (more or less) my v3.0 wolverine, geared for climbing mountains in vermont with full loads and running compass snoqualmie pass tires tubeless for bombing down dirt roads, it's going to be a fun summer.


    Soma Wolverine Builds-img_9686.jpg

  71. #471
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    Quote Originally Posted by apfrost View Post
    just finished (more or less) my v3.0 wolverine, geared for climbing mountains in vermont with full loads and running compass snoqualmie pass tires tubeless for bombing down dirt roads, it's going to be a fun summer.


    Click image for larger version. 

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    B-E-A-UTIFUL! Full loads means front + rear racks? Any more pics of that piece of art? Why did you decide to opt for the 'normal' fork instead of the 15mm thru-axle fork?
    ''Anybody who thinks wood isn't magnetic, hasn't ridden a bike in the forest.''

  72. #472
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    I have the soma deco rack for the rear, which I'm going to leave off until I have a longer trip planned. Right now, I think I can manage weekend trips between the saddle bag and the front rack, which will handle small front panniers.

    went with the normal fork over the thru-axle both for looks (not in love with the uni-crown) and for the extra mounting options, as the thru-axle fork doesn't have the mini-rack mounts.

    this feels like the perfect do everything bike, and these compass 700x44 tires are like riding on clouds!

    the red doesn't photograph well, but it's perfect, slightly orangey in a nod to the previous generation, and super sharp

    Soma Wolverine Builds-img_9690.jpg
    Soma Wolverine Builds-img_9692.jpg
    Soma Wolverine Builds-img_968.jpg

  73. #473
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    Quote Originally Posted by apfrost View Post
    just finished (more or less) my v3.0 wolverine, geared for climbing mountains in vermont with full loads and running compass snoqualmie pass tires tubeless for bombing down dirt roads, it's going to be a fun summer.


    Click image for larger version. 

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    Love the red with fat tanwalls - great looking build! I haven't ridden them yet, but I imagine those 44mm compass tires set up tubeless must ride absolutely heavenly on a Wolverine.

  74. #474
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    they're like cycling on a cloud

  75. #475
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    Quote Originally Posted by apfrost View Post
    they're like cycling on a cloud
    I imagine they are. I would love to build up a second bike with those tires - if I didn't need knobs on the Wolverine I would have been on a set of those a while ago.

  76. #476
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    which knobbies are you running? I've been thinking I should take the wheels off a mountain bike I don't ride and use them as a second set with knobs for the wolverine, but I just keep wishing that compass made their steilacoom in something wider than 38.

  77. #477
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    I'm running the WTB Resolutes in 700x42 on i23 rims. They are fantastic - light for a 42mm knobby, nice center tread for smooth and fast pavement rolling, nice little micro knobs for good all around grip, they look great with the tanish-rustish colored sidewalls, off-road traction is fantastic, and they setup tubeless super easily. Fantastic tire, perfect for an all around everywhere kinda bike. I ahvent had the chance to take them through any slick, slimy, deep mud yet, but I imagine they should do ok - will likely sink to the bottom and hook up where a true mtb tire would float and squirm. They are grippier in loose dirt than the Nobby Nics I just took off my mtb...

  78. #478
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    Quote Originally Posted by apfrost View Post
    which knobbies are you running? I've been thinking I should take the wheels off a mountain bike I don't ride and use them as a second set with knobs for the wolverine, but I just keep wishing that compass made their steilacoom in something wider than 38.
    Take a look at the tubeless version of the Soma Cazaderos. I think they are nominal 50mm.
    Bikes, lots'o bikes

  79. #479
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    I've been eyeballing both the cazadero and the resolute, they both seem like great tires for chunkier/offroad stuff.

  80. #480
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    Like most of you already did, I've also started to build a Wolverine. It will be a belt drive! Keeping notes/photos of the build here: https://medium.com/building-a-soma-wolverine. Will post some pictures when I have a full bike to show! (Building the wheels atm)

  81. #481
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    Quote Originally Posted by LexD View Post
    Like most of you already did, I've also started to build a Wolverine. It will be a belt drive! Keeping notes/photos of the build here: https://medium.com/building-a-soma-wolverine. Will post some pictures when I have a full bike to show! (Building the wheels atm)
    Right on! Should be a fun build - I like that belt drive is an option on the Wolverine. Would make an awesome single speed/IGH commuter/tourer bike.

  82. #482
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    Quote Originally Posted by LexD View Post
    Like most of you already did, I've also started to build a Wolverine. It will be a belt drive! Keeping notes/photos of the build here: https://medium.com/building-a-soma-wolverine. Will post some pictures when I have a full bike to show! (Building the wheels atm)
    nice!

    my ultimate plan is to switch to belt drive and and alfine 11 for winter commuting--looking forward to seeing how your build comes together.

    what shifters are you pairing with your hub?

  83. #483
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    Quote Originally Posted by apfrost View Post
    I've been eyeballing both the cazadero and the resolute, they both seem like great tires for chunkier/offroad stuff.
    The Cazadero looks like a great tire. It has a little more of a pronounced center ridge, which makes me think it would roll pretty fast on the pavement. It is a little heavier than the Resolute, but on a bike like this, unless you ride everywhere unloaded, that probably won't be an issue.

    I went with the Resolute simply because WTB tires are so easy to setup tubeless, especially on WTB rims. Of note - I have never burped a WTB tire, or had any sort of issue with tire/rim seal. The Resolute was designed to pair perfectly with a 23mm rim, and I am running WTB i23s - seemed too good to be true. Plus, they fit perfectly with the sliders all the way forward - a big bonus for me. I have about 300 miles on mine, and they are fast, everywhere. Dirt, road, gravel, sand, everywhere. They also have excellent grip, everywhere. On i23s, they are 42.5mm wide, at about 32psi.

    Check out Guitar Ted's tire reviews - he has tested pretty much everything, and was a big influence in my decision making process with this. Not sure if he did a test of the 50mm Caz, but he did a good test of the 42.

    WTB Resolute Tire: Getting Rolling -

    Soma Fab's Cazadero 42mm Tires: Getting Rolling -

  84. #484
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    Quote Originally Posted by apfrost View Post
    nice!

    my ultimate plan is to switch to belt drive and and alfine 11 for winter commuting--looking forward to seeing how your build comes together.

    what shifters are you pairing with your hub?
    I chose the Jtek bar end shifter! Read it's pretty solid and it gives me the option to run the cable under the bar tape. That, and price, are the reasons I took this one instead of the microshift brifter.

  85. #485
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    Quote Originally Posted by LexD View Post
    I chose the Jtek bar end shifter! Read it's pretty solid and it gives me the option to run the cable under the bar tape. That, and price, are the reasons I took this one instead of the microshift brifter.
    nice! I've been looking at that, it seems like the perfect combo for this bike.

  86. #486
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    Quote Originally Posted by SpeedyStein View Post
    The Cazadero looks like a great tire. It has a little more of a pronounced center ridge, which makes me think it would roll pretty fast on the pavement. It is a little heavier than the Resolute, but on a bike like this, unless you ride everywhere unloaded, that probably won't be an issue.

    I went with the Resolute simply because WTB tires are so easy to setup tubeless, especially on WTB rims. Of note - I have never burped a WTB tire, or had any sort of issue with tire/rim seal. The Resolute was designed to pair perfectly with a 23mm rim, and I am running WTB i23s - seemed too good to be true. Plus, they fit perfectly with the sliders all the way forward - a big bonus for me. I have about 300 miles on mine, and they are fast, everywhere. Dirt, road, gravel, sand, everywhere. They also have excellent grip, everywhere. On i23s, they are 42.5mm wide, at about 32psi.

    Check out Guitar Ted's tire reviews - he has tested pretty much everything, and was a big influence in my decision making process with this. Not sure if he did a test of the 50mm Caz, but he did a good test of the 42.

    WTB Resolute Tire: Getting Rolling -

    Soma Fab's Cazadero 42mm Tires: Getting Rolling -
    that does sound like an ideal setup!

    any second set is going to be on a wheelset that isn't tubeless ready (as that's the one I have lying around), but I'm thinking I'll give a tubeless setup anyway and see how it goes.

    the guitar ted reviews are great, and I'm also thinking about the rock n road tires--http://www.bgcycles.com/new-page/

  87. #487
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    Just finished my build and took it for a short spin

    Soma Wolverine Builds-20180427_194928-01.jpg

    Really happy with the result! Only job left is some work on the alfine hub: change the oil and sort out a cabling issue (had to do a few re-adjustments this short trip) and it'll be ready for lots and lotsof kms!
    Last edited by LexD; 04-28-2018 at 01:23 AM.

  88. #488
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    So, I finally followed thru and bought a frame set. A 3.0 in pearl black. Kind of bugs me that the changed it, I think both colours in the 2.0/2.1 was better than the 3.0.
    Aaanyhow.
    I'm slowly gathering the bits and pieces but go stuck on a major issue. The cranks and the gears. I currently have a sram force 09 crank set that I was planning on using. But its 130bcd and I'm looking at going to the unpaved roads and a few single tracks, so I really want a smaller cog than 39t up front.
    I also have a older sram mtb crank set and I'm considering putting that on on instead.
    The gears was originally going to be 2x10 but now, with the crank set thing, I'm looking at a 1x11 group instead..
    Is this just superficial and should I be fine with the 130bcd crank set, say combined with a 11-36 cassette?

  89. #489
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    Quote Originally Posted by almlof View Post
    Is this just superficial and should I be fine with the 130bcd crank set, say combined with a 11-36 cassette?
    Yes, a 1x is a sweet setup depending on where you live and how you intend to use the bike. A 39x11-36 will cover a lot of terrain. You'll just want a clutch derailleur.

    I have mine setup 42x11-42 10 speed.
    Rigid SS 29er
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    Stop asking how much it weighs and just go ride it.

  90. #490
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    Quote Originally Posted by almlof View Post
    Is this just superficial and should I be fine with the 130bcd crank set, say combined with a 11-36 cassette?
    depends on where your hills I think, but you could also just go with an 11-42 or something to get a little lower, depending on your rear derailleur choice

  91. #491
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    Quote Originally Posted by *OneSpeed* View Post
    Yes, a 1x is a sweet setup depending on where you live and how you intend to use the bike. A 39x11-36 will cover a lot of terrain. You'll just want a clutch derailleur.

    I have mine setup 42x11-42 10 speed.
    What cassette are you running? My daily commuter is set up with 40x11-36 (10s), but I feel like Iím missing a lot of gears in between.
    The thing is I really dislike setting up front derailleurs. Never get them running smooth. So removing that issue would be awesome.
    Oooon the other hand, a new mini-group was not in my budget..

  92. #492
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    Quote Originally Posted by apfrost View Post
    depends on where your hills I think, but you could also just go with an 11-42 or something to get a little lower, depending on your rear derailleur choice
    I was looking at the spread of gears and realized that its on the lower cogs that the jumps feel to vast, and those are the same through out 11-36 10s and 11-42 11s. 11-42 10s has got even bigger jumps, naturally, so I think that's not gonna be an option. Running a dubble chain up front with 39t as the smallest almost seams redundant as I'm not very often finding the need to go faster than 40-11 allows me to. So I might stick with my tacky 40/11-36 for now and later on switch to 11s 42/10-42.
    Jees, how hard could it be, right?

  93. #493
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    I'm using a Shimano Deore 11-42t cassette. Cheap and durable. I actually much prefer bigger jumps. I'd even be just fine with 11-42 8 speed.

    I also spend most of my time on SS's, so I'm not at all cadence sensitive. The less shifting the better.
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  94. #494
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    I do XT 11-42 on both my commuters. The short range bike has a 48t Narrow Wide and the long range has a 50-34 up front. If I had to do the short range bike again, I'd do 44x11-46. A small sacrifice in top end. But all the low anyone could ever need.

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  95. #495
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    I also use the XT 11-42. It's pretty awesome. With big 29x2.2 tires, I used a 36t up front, now with the 42c Resolutes I have a 40t elliptical. It works excellent for everything I ride - keeping in mind I almost always have the mini rack on the front, and occasionally a basket too. I don't mind the jumps between cogs because I find myself usually at one end of the cassette or the other - either going up or down a hill, where gear range takes precendence over fine-tuning the cadence for me. Just the other day I hit 35mph on a paved descent, with the basket full of my commute. For this bike and that type of riding, that's plenty fast for my top end. If I wanna go faster I grab my other bike.

    I do have a lot of love for Wolf Tooth's elliptical rings - they are great! My 40t climbs like a 38 and descends like a 42, and cadence feels good on the flat too.

  96. #496
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    I love my Double Cross, but have been lusting after a Wolverine for a while now. How does the bike compare to a Salsa Fargo or Cutthroat?

  97. #497
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    Had a Double Cross about 5 years ago. Rode it hard for 2-3 years. Max I could fit was 38mm tires with fenders and I really wanted bigger, cushier tires, so I got the Wolverine. I put Bruce Gordon Rock n Roads (700x42?) on there under fenders, and switched to the Compass Snoqualamie Pass (700x44) as soon as they came out. I really think the Wolverine is a better bike, specifically for 2 reasons: (1) larger tire clearance is way better for the riding I do and (2) the Wolverine fork is so vertically compliant and wonderfully flexy that the whole bike just planes better.

    I know plenty of people will disagree, but thatís my take on the whole thing. If I could do it over again, I would have just bought a 650b wheelset and some Switchback Hills (650bx48), but this was the early days of 650b and I had no idea if it was a fad or would really stick around.

  98. #498
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    Much different bike. The Fargo and cutthroat are a dropbar mountain bike. Very capable off road. I love my wolverine and ride it mostly on trails. It's faster than the cutthroat but much more challenging on single track than a cutthroat. The wolverine is a trail worthy road bike. The salsa offerings are a somewhat road worthy mountain bike.
    Quote Originally Posted by slowride454 View Post
    I love my Double Cross, but have been lusting after a Wolverine for a while now. How does the bike compare to a Salsa Fargo or Cutthroat?
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  99. #499
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    Quote Originally Posted by MindEyeSight View Post
    Had a Double Cross about 5 years ago. Rode it hard for 2-3 years. Max I could fit was 38mm tires with fenders and I really wanted bigger, cushier tires, so I got the Wolverine. .

    The current Double Cross will fit up to a 45 without fenders according to Soma. That being said I have a set of WTB Resolute 42c on mine with fenders. The resolute measures over 43mm too.

  100. #500
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    I've noticed a couple of people are running Tara Tubus low rider racks, how are the clearances with 650b?
    I have 2.2x27.5 Maxxis Ardent Race's, wondering If I'll get away with the normal or need the Big Apple version of the rack?
    Last edited by bkinsman; 05-13-2018 at 06:51 PM. Reason: Typo

  101. #501
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    New question here.

    Hi! Hope I'm not hijacking the thread. I'm looking for a frameset. Wolverine ticks all the boxes, but the reach is a bit long for me (long legs, short torso). Has anybody found a close alternative to the Wolverine?

    More on what I'm looking for here.

  102. #502
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    Looked at your post with your ideal bike requirements... Wolverine comes pretty close. I normally ride a 56, and went with a 54 based on top tube length for - happy I did because I'm using a 70mm stem. Maybe look at a 58 with a short stem? I was a little skeptical at first, and I even flamed SOMA a little here and there for strange geo, but now that I am used to it, I actually really like it.

    Mine seems to handle better with a shorter stem anyway, BTW.

    Quote Originally Posted by not_hip View Post
    Hi! Hope I'm not hijacking the thread. I'm looking for a frameset. Wolverine ticks all the boxes, but the reach is a bit long for me (long legs, short torso). Has anybody found a close alternative to the Wolverine?

    More on what I'm looking for here.
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  103. #503
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    Also, for what it's worth, I measured my frame's stack and reach, and they were both longer than the site said they should be... A 54 is spec'd as 395/566 reach/stack, but mine measured 408/573. Granted, I am pretty unsophisticated without fancy tools for this, but I think it's weird that I came up with that much of a difference -especially since I have measured other bikes with given geo and come within a mm or 2 of published specs.
    Quote Originally Posted by SpeedyStein View Post
    Looked at your post with your ideal bike requirements... Wolverine comes pretty close. I normally ride a 56, and went with a 54 based on top tube length for - happy I did because I'm using a 70mm stem. Maybe look at a 58 with a short stem? I was a little skeptical at first, and I even flamed SOMA a little here and there for strange geo, but now that I am used to it, I actually really like it.

    Mine seems to handle better with a shorter stem anyway, BTW.



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  104. #504
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    Quote Originally Posted by SpeedyStein View Post
    Also, for what it's worth, I measured my frame's stack and reach, and they were both longer than the site said they should be... A 54 is spec'd as 395/566 reach/stack, but mine measured 408/573. Granted, I am pretty unsophisticated without fancy tools for this, but I think it's weird that I came up with that much of a difference -especially since I have measured other bikes with given geo and come within a mm or 2 of published specs.
    Well, that makes things even more complicated. If only I could test ride these things. No dealers in my country though.

    Quote Originally Posted by SpeedyStein View Post
    Looked at your post with your ideal bike requirements... Wolverine comes pretty close. I normally ride a 56, and went with a 54 based on top tube length for - happy I did because I'm using a 70mm stem. Maybe look at a 58 with a short stem? I was a little skeptical at first, and I even flamed SOMA a little here and there for strange geo, but now that I am used to it, I actually really like it.
    I run a 80 mm 35 degree stem on my bike that has a 390 mm reach.

    The Soma Saga actually looks quite good. Too bad there is no size between the 61 cm (which has a 585 mm seat post) and the 66 cm (which has a 645 mm seat post). Reach on the 66 cm model is even lower than the 62 cm Wolverine (403 mm for the Saga vs 412 mm for the Wolverine). Not quite sure I'm up to the 89.5 cm (with 45 mm tires) standover height though. Inseam is between 91.5 cm and 93.5 cm depending on how far up I press the the book. I'm 187 cm tall. If frames are actually larger than specs on their site, I'm toast.

    The 58 cm Wolverine will put me in the same seatpost in the sky situation as I am now.

    Perhaps I should just copy the Wolverine geo, shorten the top tube and send the thing over to Waltly.

  105. #505
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    Quote Originally Posted by not_hip View Post
    Well, that makes things even more complicated. If only I could test ride these things. No dealers in my country though.

    I run a 80 mm 35 degree stem on my bike that has a 390 mm reach.

    The Soma Saga actually looks quite good. Too bad there is no size between the 61 cm (which has a 585 mm seat post) and the 66 cm (which has a 645 mm seat post). Reach on the 66 cm model is even lower than the 62 cm Wolverine (403 mm for the Saga vs 412 mm for the Wolverine). Not quite sure I'm up to the 89.5 cm (with 45 mm tires) standover height though. Inseam is between 91.5 cm and 93.5 cm depending on how far up I press the the book. I'm 187 cm tall. If frames are actually larger than specs on their site, I'm toast.

    The 58 cm Wolverine will put me in the same seatpost in the sky situation as I am now.

    Perhaps I should just copy the Wolverine geo, shorten the top tube and send the thing over to Waltly.
    One thing to keep in mind too is head tube length - the Wolverine has a pretty short headtube. They really are long and low bikes. Maybe check out the Double Cross? The new model can take 45mm tires, probably without fenders though. The reach is a fair bit shorter, and the headtube is a bit longer than the Wolverine. Might actually be almost exactly what you are after.

    I've been thinking about building up a Double Cross myself, as a fast all-roader, using WTB Resolutes in 700x42, then committing my Wolverine to commuter duty. Unfortunately, cash is a little low for new bikes at the moment, so it will have to wait.

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  106. #506
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    two questions for you guys.

    Does anyone know if the 15TA fork holes as large of a tire as the QR fork? I'd like to run a large volume mtb tire for some trips.

    Also, anyone running a flat bar/ jones bar? How much longer of a stem did you need to get the right fit?

    Thanks!

  107. #507
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    I have a Maxxis 2.2 on the front/rear. Rear is maxed out but I think I could fit a 2.4 up front

  108. #508
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    with which fork!?

  109. #509
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    Wolverine thru axle fork

  110. #510
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    Quote Originally Posted by bkinsman View Post
    Wolverine thru axle fork
    Sweet!

    I'm torn on the functionality of thru-axle for the aesthetics of the crown fork.

  111. #511
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    Im on mobile so canít post a pic but hereís mine on instagram. Got a rando rack and tara tubus connected to the mid fork eyelet https://instagram.com/p/BjoG58qBPVJ/

  112. #512
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    Quote Originally Posted by blantonator View Post
    Sweet!

    I'm torn on the functionality of thru-axle for the aesthetics of the crown fork.
    I went for the lugged crown fork for aesthetics. I have a 2.1" Racing Ralph on a Stans Arch MK3 rim. It doesn't rub but I wouldn't put a bigger tire in there.
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  113. #513
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    In the description of the through axle fork, Soma says the tire clearance is tighter than the lugged fork.


    Quote Originally Posted by blantonator View Post
    two questions for you guys.

    Does anyone know if the 15TA fork holes as large of a tire as the QR fork? I'd like to run a large volume mtb tire for some trips.

    Also, anyone running a flat bar/ jones bar? How much longer of a stem did you need to get the right fit?

    Thanks!
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  114. #514
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    What tires are those?
    Quote Originally Posted by bkinsman View Post
    Im on mobile so canít post a pic but hereís mine on instagram. Got a rando rack and tara tubus connected to the mid fork eyelet https://instagram.com/p/BjoG58qBPVJ/
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  115. #515
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    Quote Originally Posted by Psycho1 View Post
    What tires are those?

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    Those look like Ardent Race. Great all around tire, from what I hear.

    If you are trying to decide thru-axle vs qr fork, just go thru axle. It wasn't available when I got my bike, and I have always wished it was, and now I am trying to justify buying the thru axle fork, thru axle sliders, and a new wheelset vs just buying a whole new bike.

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  116. #516
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    Quote Originally Posted by blantonator View Post
    two questions for you guys.

    Does anyone know if the 15TA fork holes as large of a tire as the QR fork? I'd like to run a large volume mtb tire for some trips.

    Also, anyone running a flat bar/ jones bar? How much longer of a stem did you need to get the right fit?

    Thanks!
    I ran a flat bar for a little while - I used a 100mm stem, and use 70mm with my current drop bars. It was ok, but not ideal, a 110 would have probably been better for me. Sometimes you just gotta try a couple though, and find what works for you.

    The bigger issue was the large tires I had on then - 29x2.2 made the bike feel super sluggish with the sliders all the way back.

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  117. #517
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    As of yet, my V2 hasn't cracked yet (knocks on wood):


  118. #518
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    Mine did yesterday

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  119. #519
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    Cool. Time for a warranty. The V.3 resolves this and a lot of other issues the early Wolverines have. I was really disappointed in my V1. It was not the quality I had come to expect.

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  120. #520
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    Quote Originally Posted by Agwan View Post
    Cool. Time for a warranty. The V.3 resolves this and a lot of other issues the early Wolverines have. I was really disappointed in my V1. It was not the quality I had come to expect.

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    I've really loved mine. Really bummed. What other improvements were made?. I just wish they had orange still.

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  121. #521
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    Better paint. E coated internally. Tighter tolerances at the bb, seat and headtubes.

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  122. #522
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    Just the e coat is a worthy upgrade. Wow

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  123. #523
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    I acquired a 58 cm clincher version of the Wolverine a few months ago and click off 35mi round trip work commutes on it a couple times a week (with some MTB trail options can C&O canal tow path gravel along the way).

    Running tubeless 1.8" Slant 6 pros at the moment and plan on going with Thunder Burt 2.0's to eke out a bit move volume/cush and lower rolling resistance. Is anyone running ~2.1" tires or is that pushing one's luck? I have a few Niner branded Racing Ralph 2.25's that are really 2.1's and thought of maybe trying them. (I run Racing Ralph 2.25's and 2.35/2.4's on a herd of different 29er's with great success).

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  124. #524
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    Anyone's frame crack out of warranty? Are you just SOL at that point? My v1 is still doing okay, but I've only got a month of warranty left. Makes me a little nervous.

  125. #525
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    Quote Originally Posted by formula4speed View Post
    Anyone's frame crack out of warranty? Are you just SOL at that point? My v1 is still doing okay, but I've only got a month of warranty left. Makes me a little nervous.
    Jim Porter has repeatedly stated that he will warranty this specific issue beyond the standard warranty period. Just reach out to him on Facebook. It seems to have a faster turn around than the Soma email.

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  126. #526
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    Cool, that makes me feel a bit better. I'm cautiously optimistic I'll be okay, I'm pretty light at 150 pounds and I don't really hit singletrack with my Wolverine, only pavement and gravel. I do really like the ride quality so I hope it holds up for me.

  127. #527
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    I've been contemplating a Wolverine build. This has been a very useful thread. I haven't built a bike since I was racing BMX as a kid. This is definitely more complicated!

    My goal for this build is a comfortable and fun road bike, something I can ride in the city on crappy streets, on paved trails, in flat areas and in the mountains. I don't plan to take it off road, I have a mountain bike for that. I don't even know that the Soma Wolverine is my best steel frame option, but it sparked my interest.

    I've been investigating both a 700c and 650b build.

    650b: The availability of viable tires seems limited. It seems like everyone is running one of the two WTB 650b tires. These do seem like very good tires, though, large, tubeless compatible and 535g. Would be nice to have more options though, that are at least the min 47 width Soma specifies. Anyone have interesting options here?

    I've found a few wheel options, each with their own limitation (either axle, cassette speeds, disc, weight or cost). Trying to find wheels has definitely been an exercise in learning, refinement, iteration and prioritization.

    700c: Some better wheel options here, light enough, not too expensive, gearing options ... There's good reason to favor 700c due to a wider range of available options.

    I have been surprised at the weight of larger 700c tires I've found. I think I'm looking at the wrong stuff ... but the weight seems to be in the 800-1000g range. But maybe I'm looking at too large a size (~45c). My current bike is 700x47 (Conti Comfort Contact) and those tires are pretty heavy. I'll continue looking.

    Either way, I've been all over the map on drivetrain (Tiagra, 105, Rival?), brakes (hydraulic, TRP Spyre?) and various components (no idea how to choose a stem, drop bars, seat post).

    It's been pretty interesting (re-)learning about building a bike.

  128. #528
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    Quote Originally Posted by objectuser View Post
    I've been contemplating a Wolverine build. This has been a very useful thread. I haven't built a bike since I was racing BMX as a kid. This is definitely more complicated!

    My goal for this build is a comfortable and fun road bike, something I can ride in the city on crappy streets, on paved trails, in flat areas and in the mountains. I don't plan to take it off road, I have a mountain bike for that. I don't even know that the Soma Wolverine is my best steel frame option, but it sparked my interest.

    I've been investigating both a 700c and 650b build.

    650b: The availability of viable tires seems limited. It seems like everyone is running one of the two WTB 650b tires. These do seem like very good tires, though, large, tubeless compatible and 535g. Would be nice to have more options though, that are at least the min 47 width Soma specifies. Anyone have interesting options here?

    I've found a few wheel options, each with their own limitation (either axle, cassette speeds, disc, weight or cost). Trying to find wheels has definitely been an exercise in learning, refinement, iteration and prioritization.

    700c: Some better wheel options here, light enough, not too expensive, gearing options ... There's good reason to favor 700c due to a wider range of available options.

    I have been surprised at the weight of larger 700c tires I've found. I think I'm looking at the wrong stuff ... but the weight seems to be in the 800-1000g range. But maybe I'm looking at too large a size (~45c). My current bike is 700x47 (Conti Comfort Contact) and those tires are pretty heavy. I'll continue looking.

    Either way, I've been all over the map on drivetrain (Tiagra, 105, Rival?), brakes (hydraulic, TRP Spyre?) and various components (no idea how to choose a stem, drop bars, seat post).

    It's been pretty interesting (re-)learning about building a bike.

    If you aren't planning on taking it off road, you might check out the SOMA Fog Cutter. Similar geo, carbon fork painted to match the frame, regular road QR axles with regular dropouts, and similar tube set. If singlespeed-ability isn't a concern, this might make a winner.

    That said, the Wolverine is pretty fantastic, and you won't be wrong for getting one. Being able to fit huge tires is nice. The Wolverine will swallow 29x2.2 tires if you want it to. Single speed is an option; belt drive, 1x, 2x, 3x, or whatever you want to build it up with is cool too. Want thru-axles? Get the unicrown thru axle fork and some sliders from Paragon and you are in business. Want fenders? It has tabs for those. Want a rack? It can do those too, front and back, and at the same time as fenders. Versatile is an understatement with this bike. It does everything, and doesn't look like a Surly with too many bolts/holes in nonsensical places.

    In the 650b/700c debate, there are pros/cons with each, as you already stated. I like 700c for the reasons you stated above - easier to find wheels appropriate for the application, tires are also easy to find, and I prefer more roll-over ability. Plus, the geo of this bike was designed with 700c in mind, and BB height is perfect for me with 700x40 or so tires. Tires that large are going to be heavier than their skinnier counterparts, its just the nature of the beast, but a lot of the tubeless gravel tires have light casings, which do help with the weight - at the price of durability. The WTB Resolutes are pretty much the perfect tire for me with this bike - fast, not terribly heavy, traction everywhere, seem to be lasting well enough, and I think they look fantastic on the orange frame.

    For kit/cockpit, that is all personal choice. I like my bar end shifter with 1x11, but horses for course, you know. I didn't really see any better alternatives that I could afford when I built mine up. This will get some flame, but I suggest avoiding TRP Spyres. They are much better in theory than in practice. I have Spyres now and will be switching to hydros of some sort in the near future. If you want cable discs, get BB7s or Shimano CX77, or better yet, just go hydraulic.

    Overall, though, my Wolverine is my favorite bike, because it rides soooo smoothly, over any terrain. It has taken me on some great rides over lots of different terrain, and I am always glad I rode it at the end. Its not a perfect road bike, and its definitely not a perfect trail bike, but it does strike an excellent balance of go-anywhere and do it quickly. You can't go wrong with a Wolverine.

  129. #529
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    @SpeedyStein Thanks for the reply!

    Funny, soon after I posted above, I started looking at the Fog Cutter. That's now my target frame, but I'm still very open to something else. I'm also interested in the 2018 Kona Rove ST, but I don't know how the quality compares or if I could even find one. I love the 2018 color, not so much the 2019 color.

    Anyway, currently focused on the Fog Cutter, so your comment indicates I'm headed in the right direction.

    I rode a couple bikes with TRP Spyres and thought they were good. But I've not rode them in anger. They might be more appropriate to road biking vs. trail biking. But that's just a guess.

    I've read that 650b wheels with larger tires, like the WTB Byway has a similar radius as a 700x30 tire. So not as big as a 700x40 but still pretty good.

  130. #530
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    Quote Originally Posted by objectuser View Post
    @SpeedyStein Thanks for the reply!

    Funny, soon after I posted above, I started looking at the Fog Cutter. That's now my target frame, but I'm still very open to something else. I'm also interested in the 2018 Kona Rove ST, but I don't know how the quality compares or if I could even find one. I love the 2018 color, not so much the 2019 color.

    Anyway, currently focused on the Fog Cutter, so your comment indicates I'm headed in the right direction.

    I rode a couple bikes with TRP Spyres and thought they were good. But I've not rode them in anger. They might be more appropriate to road biking vs. trail biking. But that's just a guess.

    I've read that 650b wheels with larger tires, like the WTB Byway has a similar radius as a 700x30 tire. So not as big as a 700x40 but still pretty good.
    Haha, great minds think alike! I am eyeing a Fog Cutter over for myself, actually. Will definitely have to save up some pennies, but would love one with Shimano hydraulic 11 speed group, 32mm tubeless tires mounted up to some A23s or similar. Would make a really nice long ride day bike, or a fun and fast bike to take the long way home on my commute.

    I don't like my Spyres because they require so much more adjustment than single piston calipers - it seems like every other time I ride my Wolverine I am adjusting the damn brakes. The sweet spot is pretty narrow, and once you are out of it, they just don't have any power.

    Tire and wheel size is totally a personal choice, but be mindful that the Wolverine has a pretty low bottom bracket already. Most of the folks running 650b rubber on Wolverines are running big rubber - 2.1 or so. But, there are certainly others running byways and horizons and not having any problems, so it is your call. I already bump my cranks on rocks occasionally, so I don't think any shorter than 700x40ish will ever go on my bike, simply for that fact.

    Good luck, looking forward to seeing what you end up building!

  131. #531
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    Quote Originally Posted by SpeedyStein View Post
    I don't like my Spyres because they require so much more adjustment than single piston calipers - it seems like every other time I ride my Wolverine I am adjusting the damn brakes. The sweet spot is pretty narrow, and once you are out of it, they just don't have any power.
    I was using Spyres on the Wolverine until one of the bolts seized and I rounded out the bolt in the caliper. They weren't terrible but they weren't that great either. If you want to keep your "brifters" try out the Yokozuna cable actuated hydro brakes. They are really nice and the kit comes with rotors and their really nice brake cable housing.

    Soma Wolverine Builds-yokozuna.jpg

    I am being super lazy though and haven't replaced the front housing. I'm running on the rear and I can actually feel a huge difference in brake feel between the front and the rear. I'll get to it one day.
    Bikes, lots'o bikes

  132. #532
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    Quote Originally Posted by SpeedyStein View Post
    Haha, great minds think alike! I am eyeing a Fog Cutter over for myself, actually. Will definitely have to save up some pennies, but would love one with Shimano hydraulic 11 speed group, 32mm tubeless tires mounted up to some A23s or similar. Would make a really nice long ride day bike, or a fun and fast bike to take the long way home on my commute.
    Too funny!

    The new 105 (R7000) group is out and supposed to be very good. That would be a nice setup.

    I've loved both my Shimano SLX and Sram Guide hydraulics on my mountain bikes so I am very tempted by hydraulics as well. I love the modulation there and I almost never adjust the things.

  133. #533
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    Quote Originally Posted by joshhan View Post
    I was using Spyres on the Wolverine until one of the bolts seized and I rounded out the bolt in the caliper. They weren't terrible but they weren't that great either. If you want to keep your "brifters" try out the Yokozuna cable actuated hydro brakes. They are really nice and the kit comes with rotors and their really nice brake cable housing.

    I am being super lazy though and haven't replaced the front housing. I'm running on the rear and I can actually feel a huge difference in brake feel between the front and the rear. I'll get to it one day.
    So those are like the TRP Hy/Rd brakes? Cool, I hadn't heard of those. Were you turned off on TRP after the Spyres and that's why you got the Yokozuna brakes?

  134. #534
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    Found a review that compares them favorably to the TRP Hy/Rd, but they are about $90 more expensive for a pair than the TRPs (at least for the quick search I did).

  135. #535
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    Quote Originally Posted by joshhan View Post
    I was using Spyres on the Wolverine until one of the bolts seized and I rounded out the bolt in the caliper. They weren't terrible but they weren't that great either. If you want to keep your "brifters" try out the Yokozuna cable actuated hydro brakes. They are really nice and the kit comes with rotors and their really nice brake cable housing.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I am being super lazy though and haven't replaced the front housing. I'm running on the rear and I can actually feel a huge difference in brake feel between the front and the rear. I'll get to it one day.
    I thought about those a lot - haven't seen a lot of feedback, good or bad, which makes me think that they are still relatively unknown. I think their timing was just unfortunate to bring those to launch - a lot of folks were already eyeing over full hydraulic systems when those launched, and Shimano/SRAM first gen road hydraulic systems had already come down in price.

    Alternatively, TRP has the Hylex full hydraulic system, that you can do di2 or gevenalle with, or of course bar end, single speed, or downtube shifters. I thought a lot about that too, because I like my end. I already had the TRPs and Tektro levers in my parts bin though, and couldn't justify spending that much more, so I went with what I had on hand. If I ever re-configure this bike, I will likely go with a Shimano 11sp hydraulic setup.

  136. #536
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    Quote Originally Posted by objectuser View Post
    Found a review that compares them favorably to the TRP Hy/Rd, but they are about $90 more expensive for a pair than the TRPs (at least for the quick search I did).
    I think the price difference is OK considering they come with decent rotors and a really nice cable kit - the cable kit is usually $60 for a front/back, which isn't really terrible on its own. But, for $125/wheel, that is in TRP Hylex territory, which is a full hydraulic brake. Throw in another $200 and you have whatever shifter setup you want through gevenalle, and that is a pretty reasonable price for a whole shift/brake solution. Just add a RD/FD and drivetrain, and you are in business.

  137. #537
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    I have bought 2 sets (one for the commuter). I wait until the somafab.com has their 20% sales. So $200 - $40 for $160 shipped. I like them a lot, they brought back 1 finger braking and I don't need to upgrade my shifters.

    And as other posters have noted, they do come with the really nice metal, braided housing, rotors and mounting hardware.
    Bikes, lots'o bikes

  138. #538
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    Quote Originally Posted by joshhan View Post
    I have bought 2 sets (one for the commuter). I wait until the somafab.com has their 20% sales. So $200 - $40 for $160 shipped. I like them a lot, they brought back 1 finger braking and I don't need to upgrade my shifters.

    And as other posters have noted, they do come with the really nice metal, braided housing, rotors and mounting hardware.
    What is your opinion of the rotors? Also, what pads do those brakes require - is it a standard style pad, or would I need to order from SOMA/IRD/Yokozuna every time I needed pads?

  139. #539
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    Quote Originally Posted by SpeedyStein View Post
    What is your opinion of the rotors? Also, what pads do those brakes require - is it a standard style pad, or would I need to order from SOMA/IRD/Yokozuna every time I needed pads?
    Rotors are fine, the pads are the same shape as the Shimano MTB pads so you have a variety of choices there.

    They are coming out with a 4 piston version soon from what I've read!
    Bikes, lots'o bikes

  140. #540
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    First bought my 2.0 frame set back in 2016. Had it set up on 29" wheels as a drop bar single speed, flat bar single speed, with fenders, without fenders... Finally took the plunge and set up the bike as a 1x11 on 650b wheels. Apex 1 HydroR groupset, Stan's Crest Mk3 wheels, and WTB Horizon tires. Considering snagging a thru-axle front fork and rear sliders, but haven't really felt the need yet.

    Soma Wolverine Builds-pf9yxvxh.jpg

    Soma Wolverine Builds-we3od3fh.jpg

    Soma Wolverine Builds-mqcjcbkh.jpg


    On a side note, anybody else running Soma Junebug dirt drops? For some reason both my TRP Hylex and SRAM Apex levers have trouble achieving proper clamp load on these bars. The screw on the ring clamp bottoms out before the ring clamp has fully contacted the bars, meaning I can't tighten the screw down any further. I don't have this issue on another set Syntace road bars, so it's definitely the Junebug bar, not the brake levers. I can get around this issue by wrapping the bar a couple times with electrical tape, but this doesn't seem like something I should have to do.

  141. #541
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    Warentee completed.. Don't like the gloss black like I did the orange. Left the steerer full length for now

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  142. #542
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    Yeah, the orange just had something special. I'm okay with the black. But the orange was better.

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  143. #543
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    Yeah I loved the orange. When I started the warentee process. Somone on the thread said the frame is e coated. I don't notice that, and I don't see that in the specs on the web site. Do I need to use some frame /rust protection? Or is it e coated?

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  144. #544
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    It's definitely e coated and it's very noticeable. No reason to avoid adding a second layer of corrosion resistance.

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  145. #545
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    Quote Originally Posted by Agwan View Post
    It's definitely e coated and it's very noticeable. No reason to avoid adding a second layer of corrosion resistance.

    Sent from my LG-LS993 using Tapatalk
    Thank you

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  146. #546
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    Suggestions for 1x setup for Wolverine

    I just ordered a 56cm Wolverine and want to go with a 1x setup. My local shop suggested going with SRAM Rival. Are there alternative 1x setups people would suggest?

    Thanks,

    Chad

  147. #547
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    Quote Originally Posted by ckinge View Post
    I just ordered a 56cm Wolverine and want to go with a 1x setup. My local shop suggested going with SRAM Rival. Are there alternative 1x setups people would suggest?

    Thanks,

    Chad
    This is going to be an unpopular opinion but I hated 1x for gravel/trail riding on the Wolverine. I went 2x and love it. Lost too much on the highest and lowest gears when I ran a 38t chainring. I'm now on a compact crank (50/34) with a 11-36 10 speed cassette and love it.

    SRAM Rival levers
    10 speed X9 rear derailleur (type 2 clutched!)
    Rival front derailleur

    Otherwise, if you use SRAM levers, you can mix mountain and road 10 speed groups which is awesome.
    Bikes, lots'o bikes

  148. #548
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    I run 50-34x11-42 on one of my bikes and love it. I'll ultimately run 42x11-50 on my bikepacker. But that's for simplicity, not for being ideal.

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  149. #549
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    Hi,

    Could you please share with me your entire 1x setup?

  150. #550
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    It will be a 105 5800 crank with a wolf tooth 42t narrow wide chainring. XT-M8000-SGS rear derailleur, M8000 shifter, Sunrace CSMX8 11-50 conversion cassette.

    If I ever take it back to Drop bar, it will be with 105 R7000 hydro mechanical levers and a Wolftooth Tanpan adapter.

    The 2x set up is using dura ace hydromechanical levers with a Tanpan on an XT rear derailleur. Works flawless.

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  151. #551
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    Nothing really new here guys but still riding and loving my Wolvie! I checked back in after a long break and thought I would share some recent gravel grind pics. I was on a ride a few weeks ago and my Cazaderos, which had over half tread left, broke a belt in the front tire. It developed a buldge right in the center of the tread. I finished the ride but it progressed badly and barely made it back. The third pic shows my Wolvie currently sporting 43mm Gravel kings. I have yet to get out for a ride with these yet. They look sharp! Soma Wolverine Builds-file-ebb07a3f-30ef-46fc-8969-a799c57f20a2-692-00000065a54a7691.jpg
    Soma Wolverine Builds-file-eb8e46a9-689d-4b45-a514-ee8b132302c5-692-00000065a794e8a8.jpg
    Soma Wolverine Builds-file-09ee5f51-01ce-4fec-a618-68b079a280b2-620-0000005394cab680.jpg

  152. #552
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    Quote Originally Posted by joshhan View Post
    This is going to be an unpopular opinion but I hated 1x for gravel/trail riding on the Wolverine. I went 2x and love it. Lost too much on the highest and lowest gears when I ran a 38t chainring. I'm now on a compact crank (50/34) with a 11-36 10 speed cassette and love it.

    SRAM Rival levers
    10 speed X9 rear derailleur (type 2 clutched!)
    Rival front derailleur

    Otherwise, if you use SRAM levers, you can mix mountain and road 10 speed groups which is awesome.
    Ha, I'm running that same gearing combo on one of my bikes. 5700 105 and 9 speed XT RD, and compact crank with 11-36 10 speed cassette. Makes for a great everything bike setup - always have a gear that works for whatever I am doing, even if I am carrying stupid amounts of stuff up a steep hill.

  153. #553
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    Wolverine drive train setup

    Hey guys, posting because I had a few requests in PM about my drive train setup. Very happy with this drive train setup - reliable, easy to use, shifts quickly, and easy to setup. Hope this helps with your builds!

    Shimano M8000 XT RD, XT 11-42 cassette
    Soma Wolverine Builds-20181101_203622.jpg
    Ultegra crankset with Wolftooth 40t elliptical ring
    Soma Wolverine Builds-20181101_203633.jpg
    Microshift bar end shifter, 11 speed DynaSys compatible. BS-M11 is the part number - works perfectly with Shimano 11 speed MTB RD. Comes in pair with friction front too, if needed.
    Soma Wolverine Builds-20181101_203654.jpg

  154. #554
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    Very slick, SpeedyStein!

  155. #555
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    Quote Originally Posted by doismellbacon View Post
    Very slick, SpeedyStein!
    Thank you!

  156. #556
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    Hey all. Iíve been stalking this thread for a while. I built up my Wolverine last fall. Totally loving the bike. Eventually Iíll post the build spec but for now hereís some photos.




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  157. #557
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    Quote Originally Posted by SanJuanSam View Post
    Hey all. Iíve been stalking this thread for a while. I built up my Wolverine last fall. Totally loving the bike. Eventually Iíll post the build spec but for now hereís some photos.




    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Right on, looks like you have built it up a few different ways so far. That's what I like about mine - it is super flexible to build up for whatever I want to do/ride. Which frame bag is the camo one? I really like the shape of that - looks like bottles actually fit in the cages with that one. I have the Blackburn Outpost bag and don't really like it much for this frame - I can't fit the bag and bottles at the same time.

  158. #558
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    Quote Originally Posted by SpeedyStein View Post
    Right on, looks like you have built it up a few different ways so far. That's what I like about mine - it is super flexible to build up for whatever I want to do/ride. Which frame bag is the camo one? I really like the shape of that - looks like bottles actually fit in the cages with that one. I have the Blackburn Outpost bag and don't really like it much for this frame - I can't fit the bag and bottles at the same time.
    So the camo frame bag in the second photo is a Jandd. The other frame bag that is green/camo is from Oveja Negra. I like the bag from Oveja a bit more although requires the use of smaller bottles.

    In a short amount of time my wolverine has seen some different set ups. Mostly just wheel/tire changes. The move from a mountain triple to a white industries vbc double was huge. It allows running the tire as far forward as possible with clearance for the front derailleur. The 2.2 continentals had some interface with the front derailleur even slammed back in the dropouts. I heard about the frame failures right after installing those so I pulled em off and went to rock n roads which are great tires on this bike.


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  159. #559
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    Soma Wolverine Builds-moses-rez-raider-orange-harvester.jpg

    This is my Wolverine and my dog, they are both pretty fun to hang out with.

  160. #560
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    Quote Originally Posted by SanJuanSam View Post
    So the camo frame bag in the second photo is a Jandd. The other frame bag that is green/camo is from Oveja Negra. I like the bag from Oveja a bit more although requires the use of smaller bottles.

    In a short amount of time my wolverine has seen some different set ups. Mostly just wheel/tire changes. The move from a mountain triple to a white industries vbc double was huge. It allows running the tire as far forward as possible with clearance for the front derailleur. The 2.2 continentals had some interface with the front derailleur even slammed back in the dropouts. I heard about the frame failures right after installing those so I pulled em off and went to rock n roads which are great tires on this bike.


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    Right on, Thanks for the info on the bags.

    Yeah, I ran 2.25 Nine Lines on mine for a little while, and didn't have FD problems because 1x, but I didn't really care for how the bike handled with that large of a tire. I switched to the WTB Resolutes and couldn't be happier - they are pretty similar in size/knob characteristics to the R&Rs.

    Thanks for sharing!

  161. #561
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    Quote Originally Posted by SpeedyStein View Post
    Right on, Thanks for the info on the bags.

    Yeah, I ran 2.25 Nine Lines on mine for a little while, and didn't have FD problems because 1x, but I didn't really care for how the bike handled with that large of a tire. I switched to the WTB Resolutes and couldn't be happier - they are pretty similar in size/knob characteristics to the R&Rs.

    Thanks for sharing!
    Recently I switched to a set of NOS WTB Mutano Raptors in 44. They are a great tire for this bike. Not too bad on pavement and perfect in the snowy conditions we have right now. This bike is making me become a tire/wheel set collector.


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  162. #562
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    Quote Originally Posted by boostin View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    This is my Wolverine and my dog, they are both pretty fun to hang out with.
    Iím digging the purple (I think) bar tape. What bars are those? Almost look like on-one midge.


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  163. #563
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    Quote Originally Posted by SanJuanSam View Post
    Iím digging the purple (I think) bar tape. What bars are those? Almost look like on-one midge.

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    My friend who built it gave me purple housing so I bought a purple stem and purple tape for it. I think it looks pretty good! The bars are Salsa woodchipper 2's I am 95% positive.

  164. #564
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    I have a wolverine frame that I am building up using parts bin components. I will need to make one purchase related to the wheels. I have an old DT Swiss X1600 rear wheel with with a 142x12 hub. I am debating whether to pay $40 for DT end caps to convert the hub to 135 QR or spending $65 for paragon sliders and hardware to convert the frame to 142x12. Thoughts? Any strong preferences on these two options?

    A related question. Paragon lists and sells the shimano AX-MT700 thru axle as being compatitble with their dropouts. I have an old SM-AX75 thru axle that I hope is compatible. Anybody know if it will work? I asked Paragon customer service and they refused to comment on its compatibility.

    Thanks!

  165. #565
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    I would really stick with DT Swiss for paragon drop outs. I know there are others that work. But DT is worth it.

    I strongly prefer the through axle rear end on my Wolverines. Having run both axle types.

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  166. #566
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    Iíve seen pics of 54-559 (compass rat trap pass) fitted to a Soma Wolverine. Iím wondering if itís likely that a Surly ExtraTerrestrial (63-559) would fit the rear chainstay gap? Tire radius is equal to many of the 650b I see folks use, but perhaps the width is getting too large?

    I guess if there is 69mm gap it *could* work. Reason being I have a set of 26Ē wheels from my old troll. Perhaps someone has measured the gap?

  167. #567
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    Wondering if anyone has measured gap between chainstays? Iíve seen a compass rat trap pass (54-559) fitted to a Soma wolverine which had me thinking Surly extraterrestrial (63-559) *might* fit. The radius of this 26Ē wheel tire is equal to some of the 650b Iíve seen fitted, but Perhaps width makes it no-go ...

  168. #568
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    Quote Originally Posted by dingbat View Post
    Iíve seen pics of 54-559 (compass rat trap pass) fitted to a Soma Wolverine. Iím wondering if itís likely that a Surly ExtraTerrestrial (63-559) would fit the rear chainstay gap? Tire radius is equal to many of the 650b I see folks use, but perhaps the width is getting too large?

    I guess if there is 69mm gap it *could* work. Reason being I have a set of 26Ē wheels from my old troll. Perhaps someone has measured the gap?
    I had a 29x2.1" tire in the back on a wide rim, no rubbing. I'd be more concerned about BB height with 26" wheels.
    Rigid SS 29er
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    Stop asking how much it weighs and just go ride it.

  169. #569
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    The BB looked quite low with the compass tires, but 2.5Ē wide Surly ETs have the same radius as a 700x32c (the tire Soma bases wolverine geo figures on). I think the main issue is in order to have that radius itís getting super wide. Iím on the frontier here, but it would be super rad to use my existing 26Ē wheels for logging roads and run 650b x 47 for commutes / pavement!

  170. #570
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    FYI, I got a notice that Soma is having a sale on Wolverines through their web store, ends today. $300-$400 for the frame, depending on the version. And, shipping is a flat $20 to CONUS.
    http://www.bikingtoplay.blogspot.com/
    RIGID, not "ridged" or "ridgid"
    PEDAL, not "peddle." Unless you're selling stuff

  171. #571
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    Hey all thanks for all the info here. Starting to spec out a 1x11 Wolverine build for a clyde. My idea is to go budget and then possibly upgrade down the road. Looking to do 60% gravel/40% paved with some commuting sprinkled in. Leaning toward the Lugged QR fork. Questions:

    1. What is the ideal rim width for running 38-50 tires? I've got my heart set on some Hydras but I also found a great deal on an Archetype wheelset for $200. Again, the wheels are something I feel like I can go cheap on right now and upgrade later. Although it looks like if I build/buy something with a Sram 900 hub - I can have more options for QR and TA?

    2. Should I consider 27.5/MTB wheelset?

    3. This will be my first Sram build and first disc build. Do I need a RD with a clutch if running 10-42? What RD should I be looking at?

    Thanks should be a fun project.

  172. #572
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    Quote Originally Posted by hexron View Post
    Hey all thanks for all the info here. Starting to spec out a 1x11 Wolverine build for a clyde. My idea is to go budget and then possibly upgrade down the road. Looking to do 60% gravel/40% paved with some commuting sprinkled in. Leaning toward the Lugged QR fork. Questions:

    1. What is the ideal rim width for running 38-50 tires? I've got my heart set on some Hydras but I also found a great deal on an Archetype wheelset for $200. Again, the wheels are something I feel like I can go cheap on right now and upgrade later. Although it looks like if I build/buy something with a Sram 900 hub - I can have more options for QR and TA?

    2. Should I consider 27.5/MTB wheelset?

    3. This will be my first Sram build and first disc build. Do I need a RD with a clutch if running 10-42? What RD should I be looking at?

    Thanks should be a fun project.
    Congrats on choosing a Wolverine! I've had mine for about 3 years now, and love it more every ride. It's been built in many different ways, and always proves a fun and comfortable ride.

    For wheels - 19-23mm internal width should work well for 38-50mm tires. Easy to find old stock 29er XC wheels, many with convertible hubs, in this width range, often very affordable.

    If you are looking at the lugged fork - it is flexy, but looks great, rides comfortably, and can fit a 180mm rotor. Some people like this, some don't - read this whole thread for details. I believe the lugged fork has more tire clearance, but 50s should fit fine in the TA fork too. Keep this in mind when choosing your wheelset - that's where convertible hubs are a great idea. That was by far my biggest mistake when building up my bike - I got regular QR hubs, and now want the TA fork and accompanying wheelset.

    I think a 650b wheelset would be fun, but keep in mind that the bottom bracket will be pretty low, even with 2.1 or 2.2 tires. Not necessarily a deal breaker, and a lot of people run 650b with lots of happy miles, but it would be a potentially limiting factor when riding off-road.

    When going 1x11 or 1x10, a clutch RD is definitely going to help keep your chain on, but isn't entirely necessary if you use a narrow wide chainring and an RD with a stiff tension spring. I ran 1x10 on my cross bike for a long time with a RaceFace ring and Deore 9spd MTB RD, and never dropped a chain once. Other factors play in too - chainstay length, chainline, chain and ring health, terrain you are riding, etc, and everyone's bike setup will be a little different, so it definitely isn't a sure thing for all situations. I can't speak to SRAM stuff, I've always ridden Shimano RDs and never had a problem with modern stuff.

    Have fun and post pics as you go!

  173. #573
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    I got some Bontrager Duster Elites for a penny and a song when I worked for Trek, they are really out dated for mountain bike wheels. but with a roughly 20mm inner width they've made excellent gravel wheels. I usually run 42 to 50c tires, I have both forks. and I can confirm 50c fits in both. But 50c won't fit with a fender in the TA fork.

    I prefer my 700c wheels. But I really want to get some 650b wheels as well.

    I do XT M8000-SGS derailleurs on both of my gravel bikes. I use a tan-pan to adapt them to drop bars. And I do this because my 1x gravel bike is 11-50 in the cassette and the SGS has no issues clearing that.

    My 2x Gravel bike is 11-42x50-34. I run the SGS there to accommodate chain growth when shifting between big and small rings up front.

    Long term, a clutch is a great idea. almost all MTB rear derailleurs will have a clutch, as will dedicated 1x rear derailleurs from Sram.

  174. #574
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    New question here. new V3 frame

    Hello,

    I just got my Wolverine V3 from my LBS. Since I donít have the tool Iíll let him mount the BB and the headset (with facing the frame and cutting the threads). But before that Iíd like to coat the inside of the frame with some rust prevention. While thinking about this, I stumbled over some questions which Iíd like to raise here:

    - regroove all threads which arenít already regrooved
    ===> what happens to any material (paint, metal, etc.) that might get into the tube? How do I get it out there?
    - There are two mounts on the down tube. Both of them have a fairly big ďspacerĒ on them which is coated with paint (it seems). I attached a picture so you can see, what I mean.
    ===> Iím wondering how I dismount theses spacers. I have the fear, that if I twist them (to get them off), the paint might chip of the tube itself.

    Sorry, if my English is not perfect, Iím from Germany.
    Soma Wolverine Builds-soma_mounts_05.jpg
    Soma Wolverine Builds-soma_mounts_04.jpg

  175. #575
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    Quote Originally Posted by nitrosont View Post
    Hello,

    I just got my Wolverine V3 from my LBS. Since I donít have the tool Iíll let him mount the BB and the headset (with facing the frame and cutting the threads). But before that Iíd like to coat the inside of the frame with some rust prevention. While thinking about this, I stumbled over some questions which Iíd like to raise here:

    - regroove all threads which arenít already regrooved
    ===> what happens to any material (paint, metal, etc.) that might get into the tube? How do I get it out there?
    - There are two mounts on the down tube. Both of them have a fairly big ďspacerĒ on them which is coated with paint (it seems). I attached a picture so you can see, what I mean.
    ===> Iím wondering how I dismount theses spacers. I have the fear, that if I twist them (to get them off), the paint might chip of the tube itself.

    Sorry, if my English is not perfect, Iím from Germany.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Right on, welcome to the Wolverine club! You will likely find this to be a very comfortable and versatile bike, as pretty much anyone who has ever ridden one will tell you - you made a great choice!

    For rust coating - I thought I remember seeing somewhere that SOMA coats the V3 frames already, but I can't find that on their site, so they might not. Would be a good idea to follow up with them. That said, a little extra won't hurt. Do it before the LBS faces/chases your mating surfaces (BB, headtube, etc), that way if any of your coating gets in there, it isn't interfering with installation of parts.

    For "regrooving threads" do you mean bottle cage bosses, rack/fender mounts, those sort of threads? I usually just run the correct size bolt through them, without attaching anything initially, just to get the threads cleared of any paint or whatnot. There was a fair bit of paint in the threads of most of the attachment points on my bike when I first got it. If you are really obsessive about it, you can get an M5 tap and chase the threads, but that is probably overkill. Remember, the bike shop is going to do the bottom bracket, which is about the only threaded attachment point that can really ruin your day if something goes wrong - the others can create annoyances, but there are fixes for those.

    Those "spacers" on your downtube are just covers over your shifter bosses. If you are using downtube shifters, they mount there. If you are using any sort of handlebar shifter, there is a little cable stopper that mounts there. The covers are just on there to keep it from getting paint on the bosses, and when the paint dried it glued the covers on. I think I just rocked mine back and forth a couple times and they came off without taking any paint with them. You may or may not have the same luck, so it might be a good idea to take a razor and score the paint around the seam just to be safe - your choice.

    Again, welcome to the club, and post up more pics as you progress on your build!

  176. #576
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    @ SpeedyStein:
    Many many thanks for the warm welcome!
    I did quite some research before ordering this frame Ė I really hope that I get a versatile bike at the end. But since you stated it, Iím even more confident.

    Thanks for the feedback concerning the downtube shifter mounts. At the end, the caps came loose pretty easy. Just a bit of flexing did the job.
    Regarding the threads I realized, that only the threads of the rack mounts need to be regrooved (except for the BB thread Ė but my bike shop will take care of this). But since mounting racks will take some time, I donít need to worry about theses right now.

    Regarding the rust prevention: During the weekend I started with a first round. I dumped around one can of Fluid Film with the help of a filling probe into the frame. But I have the feeling, that the probe didnít do a good job in covering the film evenly. So I guess I will repeat this at least one more time.

    Again: Thanks for the feedback!

  177. #577
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    Quote Originally Posted by nitrosont View Post
    @ SpeedyStein:
    Many many thanks for the warm welcome!
    I did quite some research before ordering this frame Ė I really hope that I get a versatile bike at the end. But since you stated it, Iím even more confident.

    Thanks for the feedback concerning the downtube shifter mounts. At the end, the caps came loose pretty easy. Just a bit of flexing did the job.
    Regarding the threads I realized, that only the threads of the rack mounts need to be regrooved (except for the BB thread Ė but my bike shop will take care of this). But since mounting racks will take some time, I donít need to worry about theses right now.

    Regarding the rust prevention: During the weekend I started with a first round. I dumped around one can of Fluid Film with the help of a filling probe into the frame. But I have the feeling, that the probe didnít do a good job in covering the film evenly. So I guess I will repeat this at least one more time.

    Again: Thanks for the feedback!
    No worries, glad I could help out. What components are you considering for your build? This bike lends itself pretty well to a myriad of different builds, and I think it is fun to see how other people build their bike up for where/how they ride. Have fun with it, and post pics as you go!

  178. #578
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    Quote Originally Posted by SpeedyStein View Post
    No worries, glad I could help out. What components are you considering for your build? This bike lends itself pretty well to a myriad of different builds, and I think it is fun to see how other people build their bike up for where/how they ride. Have fun with it, and post pics as you go!
    Since I aim for low maintenance I went for a Alfine hub gear shifting. I already finished the wheels with a Shutter Precision dynamo in the front. For rims I went with "The Hydra" from "H Plus Son" in 700C. Everything else is unclear at the moment.

    Currently I'm struggeling with the drivetrain. Since I'm tall (6'5'') I'd like to use a long crankset - 180mm / ~7,1''. For the BB I'll use a suitable Hollowtech II BB. 180mm cranks are pretty rare. I found that the Shimano XT FC-M8000 might work. But there are some questions left:

    • Does every chainring fit as long as its holes fit to the cranks?
    • The chainline of the cranks is 50,4mm. The one on the Alfine hub can be changed since the gear wheel is dished. But I'm not sure, if I'll manage a straight chainline with this combination.
    • And the chain: Should I use a chain optimized fot the chainring or for the gear wheel of the Alfine hub? Does it even matter? Or can I just use any chain?

  179. #579
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    Here is my Soma a week ago but it transformes a lot at the moment. This was my first test drive after the rebuild. Lets say thats my race / sunshine setup
    Yesterday I added lights and a rear rack from my old build and I want to change tires and add Fenders soon and ride it as Randoneur & Commuter for a while.
    Soma Wolverine Builds-img_20190302_135635.jpg
    It used to be build with Alfine 11 & Riser for 2,5 years now. After some longer tours and daily use in the city I decided to change it to dropbar. Dropbar and Alfine does not really work, if you don't want bar end shifters. If you have a Di2 its another story. In my opinion the frame is not really made to be built with geared hubs, it starts with the handlebar and end with the cables. When you ride it you don't really feel it but there are better frames then the wolverine for a clean geared hub setup. But I know where you are comming from and I decided to do it 2,5 years ago.
    The Alfine is made for 8 speed chains. Maybe you can find a used Shimano xt 8 speed crank. It will give you the flexibility you need and you can add chainguards. I am german too by the way .

  180. #580
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    Nice picture, the bike looks great!
    I think I'll use a bullhorn bar with the JTek bar end shifter, but I haven't finally deceided yet.
    Seeing your frame, I assume you're also pretty tall? Which cranks did you use with the Alfine? My main concern with the current XT cranks (FC-M8000) is that I don't know, if I can get the chainline in line with the gear of the rear hub. Do you suggest to get a 3x crank and only use the middle chainring?
    Do you mean, that any chain for 8 speed works? For example a CN-HG71 (HyperGlide) should work with the Alfine?

  181. #581
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    Quote Originally Posted by nitrosont View Post
    Nice picture, the bike looks great!
    I think I'll use a bullhorn bar with the JTek bar end shifter, but I haven't finally deceided yet.
    Seeing your frame, I assume you're also pretty tall? Which cranks did you use with the Alfine? My main concern with the current XT cranks (FC-M8000) is that I don't know, if I can get the chainline in line with the gear of the rear hub. Do you suggest to get a 3x crank and only use the middle chainring?
    Do you mean, that any chain for 8 speed works? For example a CN-HG71 (HyperGlide) should work with the Alfine?
    Sounds like you have a good start! Alfine hubs are pretty cool - I've never run one, but have thought about it a lot.

    You should be able to get the chainline on an M8000 XT crank close enough to make the Alfine work - keep in mind though that there aren't very many chainring size options for those cranks, since the 4 bolt pattern isn't an industry standard pattern. You could always adjust gearing with different cogs for the Alfine though, so might not be an issue for you. Any 1x ring should work fine with an 8 speed chain - chain "speed" matters most on the rear on a cassette, where the chain has to move a very specific distance to shift properly without rubbing the other gears.

    An older XT crank (700 series) will be a lot more versatile, since older models use standard mounting chainrings, and many will be triples, which gives you even more flexibility with chainline and ring size. Not to mention, you will probably be able to single speed specific chainrings for an older XT crankset, vice using a 1x specific one for the newer model.

    Good luck!

  182. #582
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    Just scoped out the new V4 Type A on Soma's web store... looks like a pretty legit upgrade.

    https://store.somafab.com/sowoadtofrv41.html

    Only color matched fork is the unicrown 15mm thru-axle, ships with the 12mm thru axle sliders, 44mm headtube for tapered fork compatibility, no belt drive split in the seat stay, and no downtube shifter bosses. No mention on any geo changes yet, and it isn't even on their main website or in the blog. Maybe they added it too soon to the store?

    They also have the Type B, which looks like pretty much the V3 frame, but with in a new green color, both steel forks available in color match.

    https://store.somafab.com/sowoadtofrv4.html

    I would love build up the Type A, but can't spend $2k+ on a bike build right now.

  183. #583
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    I was excited to read about the B type's "increased stack", but when I checked in my 62cm size, it was... 1mm. Wow.
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  184. #584
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    Soma Wolverine Hybrid

    Soma Wolverine Builds-img_20190422_103607844_hdr.jpg
    Just built up a flat bar wolverine from my old frameset (size 58) with a parts bin build. I still need to add a front derailleur. I plan to use it as my primary commuter for the summer. I did order some Paragon sliders to upgrade the rear end to a 142mm thru axle setup. The Paragon sliders work. But...the way the are machined I can't use the full range of motion of their sliding feature. I figured I'd document that here. Paragon part numbers are DR4137 and DR4027.

    For anyone on the fence about a Wolverine I would definitely steer you towards Black Mountain Cycles. I own his Road+. At $695 for a frameset, the Road+ and MCD are an incredible value. If you don't absolutely need the Wolverine's versatility features (sliding dropouts and/or belt drive) then, in my opinion, the Soma doesn't have much to offer compared to the BMC.

  185. #585
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    Quote Originally Posted by sdwhitey View Post
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    Just built up a flat bar wolverine from my old frameset (size 58) with a parts bin build. I still need to add a front derailleur. I plan to use it as my primary commuter for the summer. I did order some Paragon sliders to upgrade the rear end to a 142mm thru axle setup. The Paragon sliders work. But...the way the are machined I can't use the full range of motion of their sliding feature. I figured I'd document that here. Paragon part numbers are DR4137 and DR4027.

    For anyone on the fence about a Wolverine I would definitely steer you towards Black Mountain Cycles. I own his Road+. At $695 for a frameset, the Road+ and MCD are an incredible value. If you don't absolutely need the Wolverine's versatility features (sliding dropouts and/or belt drive) then, in my opinion, the Soma doesn't have much to offer compared to the BMC.
    Haha, I built mine up with flat bars a couple months ago too!

    I also like the BMC MCD, but it wasn't around when I got my Wolverine - they didn't have any disc brake bikes at all. Not that I have buyers remorse, but more options would have been nice 3-4 years ago.

    With the Paragon sliders, which direction do they limit you? All the way forward, all the way back, or both? I have really been on the fence about upgrading the Wolverine to thru axles since I built it - but I would need to buy wheels, axles, fork, and the sliders - might as well just build/buy a new bike at that point.

    I've also been thinking about going deep end with the Wolverine and taking it to a frame builder to remove the sliders and mount fixed position thru axle dropouts to it. Would be expensive, but would make for a clean thru axle conversion. The Wolverine fits me well and rides like a dream, so it would almost be worth it.

  186. #586
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    I'd like to pick up the new 4.0 Type A with the thru axles but they're currently out of the color matched steel forks. I've been having a hell of a time finding a replacement. Anyone else have any better luck than me? The fact that it's tapered, steel, thru axle and comes with mounts makes it a bit of a unicorn. Maybe Soma will restock these forks soon?

  187. #587
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    I'm looking at the Wolvie as a replacement for my current gravel bike which is too long. I like what I see on this thread and I think the Wolvie is my top choice. My question is this, I don't see any carbon forks being run on this frame. Is there a reason for that? I'll be using this for light gravel and road riding. I'm thinking this Soma fork would be a great option. I'm going to purchase a frame/fork combo and transfer my parts over.

    Am I dumb for thinking this?
    https://www.modernbike.com/soma-carb...ork-700c-1-1-8

    Thanks for any help!
    Why would I need more than one gear?
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  188. #588
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    Quote Originally Posted by Crash_FLMB View Post
    I'm looking at the Wolvie as a replacement for my current gravel bike which is too long. I like what I see on this thread and I think the Wolvie is my top choice. My question is this, I don't see any carbon forks being run on this frame. Is there a reason for that? I'll be using this for light gravel and road riding. I'm thinking this Soma fork would be a great option. I'm going to purchase a frame/fork combo and transfer my parts over.

    Am I dumb for thinking this?
    https://www.modernbike.com/soma-carb...ork-700c-1-1-8

    Thanks for any help!


    That is the default choice for a carbon fork for the Wolverine, you'd be good to go with it.
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  189. #589
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    Quote Originally Posted by life behind bars View Post
    That is the default choice for a carbon fork for the Wolverine, you'd be good to go with it.
    Thanks for the help. I went with the carbon for now but will also pick up the steel fork at some point. Next weekend will be spent on building her up.

    Sent from my LM-G710VM using Tapatalk
    Why would I need more than one gear?
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  190. #590
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    I had some issues transferring all the parts from my Jabber but after a few rides this weekend, she's close to being dialed in. Thanks for those who helped. So far so good. The carbon fork was a nice upgrade from the old Surly steel monster I was running. The ride is much another and I'm really happy so far.

    Side note, anyone running downtube shifters? I'm thinking of adding them but I have no idea what to look for or the difference between gear shifters and friction shifters. I'm currently running an old XT rear derailleur and planning to add a front XT derailleur once I get the shifter.

    Sent from my LM-G710VM using Tapatalk
    Why would I need more than one gear?
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  191. #591
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    Quote Originally Posted by Crash_FLMB View Post
    I had some issues transferring all the parts from my Jabber but after a few rides this weekend, she's close to being dialed in. Thanks for those who helped. So far so good. The carbon fork was a nice upgrade from the old Surly steel monster I was running. The ride is much another and I'm really happy so far.

    Side note, anyone running downtube shifters? I'm thinking of adding them but I have no idea what to look for or the difference between gear shifters and friction shifters. I'm currently running an old XT rear derailleur and planning to add a front XT derailleur once I get the shifter.

    Sent from my LM-G710VM using Tapatalk
    Not sure what you mean when you say not sure what the difference is? Friction shifters will work with any derailleur. On my Wolvie I have a 1x andmon my mom drive side downtube boss I have a Guinness bottle cap. Itís pretty slick

  192. #592
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    Guinness cap, now that's something to see.

    I've never used or even looked at friction shifters so I'm pretty dumb about them. It sounds like I can pick up any friction shifters and be good to go. Hmmm, if so then I see that in the very near future.

    Sent from my LM-G710VM using Tapatalk
    Why would I need more than one gear?
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  193. #593
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    I picked up a 62cm V3 frame when Soma had them 20% off to build up as my around town/all rounder bike:

    Soma Wolverine Builds-img_1692.jpg
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  194. #594
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    Quote Originally Posted by Crash_FLMB View Post
    Guinness cap, now that's something to see.

    I've never used or even looked at friction shifters so I'm pretty dumb about them. It sounds like I can pick up any friction shifters and be good to go. Hmmm, if so then I see that in the very near future.

    Sent from my LM-G710VM using Tapatalk
    Yes friction shifters can be used with any speed and any derailleur
    Soma Wolverine Builds-e795acd6-9d0d-4b26-ae5e-5b56f0c6af3f.jpeg

  195. #595
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    That's awesome! I might have to steal that truck from you.

    Fantastic! I'll be scavenging around for some friction shifter then. Thanks for the info.

    Sent from my LM-G710VM using Tapatalk
    Why would I need more than one gear?
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  196. #596
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    So I read most of this thread and looking for a bit of advice. I just purchased from my local CL a Wolverine 2.0 frame and fork set for under $275. As far as I can tell it's in good shape just needs some paint and rear dropout screws and lug nut(which I am sure lowes or home depot carry for like $1-2 for the set).


    Is there anything I should know or be on the lookout for? The previous owner told me as long I don't ride its slid back fully and not a heavy set person cracking won't be an issue. He also said cracking was more of an issue on 56cm an above no 52cm(is this correct?). Out of curiosity is it possible to take the frame to a welder to make it close to the 2.1 model?


    I wanted to go 650b, but a LBS around here had a good deal on a set of used 700c(23 wide) WTB competitive mountain bike wheels with the 160mm disc included, which I plan to run tubed with Schwalbe or Michelin tires in a 42-45 size range. I wasn't able to find a precise answer but what is the max tire I can run with 700c and with 650b without a fender/mudguard? I also bought a pair of used TRP(only $35) mechanical brakes and Cane Creek headset(new) from that LBS. I am excited to get this build. I plan to swap out the drive-train from my current gravel bike, which has a 2x10 Sram setup and have a local bike builder install the headset and brakes(not skilled in this yet nor have the tools to install a headset). I may also use the CF handlebars as I am told it offers better damping than metal or aluminum, but I also like how the Salsa cowchippers look too. I am excited cause this should be a better size, safe, and more comfortable than my current gravel bike(which has an ally frame, cf fork, and v brakes).


    Thank you!

  197. #597
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    Quote Originally Posted by Funoutside View Post
    So I read most of this thread and looking for a bit of advice. I just purchased from my local CL a Wolverine 2.0 frame and fork set for under $275. As far as I can tell it's in good shape just needs some paint and rear dropout screws and lug nut(which I am sure lowes or home depot carry for like $1-2 for the set).


    Is there anything I should know or be on the lookout for? The previous owner told me as long I don't ride its slid back fully and not a heavy set person cracking won't be an issue. He also said cracking was more of an issue on 56cm an above no 52cm(is this correct?). Out of curiosity is it possible to take the frame to a welder to make it close to the 2.1 model?


    I wanted to go 650b, but a LBS around here had a good deal on a set of used 700c(23 wide) WTB competitive mountain bike wheels with the 160mm disc included, which I plan to run tubed with Schwalbe or Michelin tires in a 42-45 size range. I wasn't able to find a precise answer but what is the max tire I can run with 700c and with 650b without a fender/mudguard? I also bought a pair of used TRP(only $35) mechanical brakes and Cane Creek headset(new) from that LBS. I am excited to get this build. I plan to swap out the drive-train from my current gravel bike, which has a 2x10 Sram setup and have a local bike builder install the headset and brakes(not skilled in this yet nor have the tools to install a headset). I may also use the CF handlebars as I am told it offers better damping than metal or aluminum, but I also like how the Salsa cowchippers look too. I am excited cause this should be a better size, safe, and more comfortable than my current gravel bike(which has an ally frame, cf fork, and v brakes).


    Thank you!
    The cracking seemed to be overblown, but the owner is probably right that small frames with the wheel not all the way back are fine.

    With 700c you can have a maximum of 2.1" tires or so. Not sure with fenders what you can have. With 650b you can fit 47mm tires with fenders. Also 2.1" without fenders.

    You got a great bike!

  198. #598
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    Wait so without fender 650b and 700c one can fit the same width of tires? I thought 650b meant I can fit a bit of a wider tire than 700c? Soma's site says 45 with fenders on 700c. That changes things if I can go 2.1 with 700c as I will probably go close to 50mm wide then and ride between tucked and middle.

    Any suggestions on some quality QR skewers as that's how my tires and frame is setup(unless I swap the rear drops for thru and get the thru axle fork, which increase the build cost)? Thanks

  199. #599
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    Quote Originally Posted by Funoutside View Post
    Any suggestions on some quality QR skewers as that's how my tires and frame is setup(unless I swap the rear drops for thru and get the thru axle fork, which increase the build cost)? Thanks
    I'm using Dura Ace quick release skewers on my 100/135 steel-frame with carbon CX Enve gen 1 fork. These are heavy but zero compromise. Ultegra are almost as good. I think XT skewers would be great, too, but I haven't tried them myself. Internal cam skewers are essential for quick-release and disc brakes. (I had Salsa external cam skewers that looked nice, but just weren't up for the job. My front wheel always had to be re-centered in the fork. I've never had that problem with Dura Ace skewers.)

    Frankly, if you have the ability to convert your hubs to thru-axle, you should do it, and get something like the Spork 1.2 or 2.0 with a Wolverine 4 type A. (The Spork offers attachment points that Enve lacks.)

  200. #600
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    Spork is out of budget for me, but what's this about the V.4 type A? Are you suggesting getting the V.4 type rear dropouts?

    I will take a look at XT and Dura-Ace, thank you.

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