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  1. #201
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    Like the orange spacers. Nice touch!
    Cheers
    Bill in Roswell, GA

  2. #202
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    A Wolverine has been on my build radar. Kind of glad I waited until now as apparently the new forks are stronger (so I've read).

    I will build with dirt drops, Shimano 10 sp bar ends, wide range 2x10 with XTR clutch RD, CX70 FD. For keeping things field-repairable, I'll go with TRP Spykes. Have 'em on the MTB with Ice rotors and the feel is better than cheap hydro brakes, esp. if you use good quality compressionless housing and slick cables.

    One thing I've noticed reading through all the builds mentioned: everyone wants wider tires while using 700 rims. Why not 650B rims to get a wider tire? My original plan was to use 650B wheels. Just curious why on one has gone there yet.

    By the way, some buddies on the west coast told me that Merry Sales responds to phone calls (Pacific Time) much better than they respond to email.

    Cheers,
    Bill in Roswell, GA
    Last edited by roadscrape; 01-09-2017 at 01:48 AM. Reason: was should be as

  3. #203
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    Quote Originally Posted by roadscrape View Post
    One thing I've noticed reading through all the builds mentioned: everyone wants wider tires while using 700 rims. Why not 650B rims to get a wider tire? My original plan was to use 650B wheels. Just curious why on one has gone there yet.

    By the way, some buddies on the west coast told me that Merry Sales responds to phone calls (Pacific Time) much better than they respond to email.

    Cheers,
    Bill in Roswell, GA
    Good luck with the build. A heads up from me would be to check compatibility with your bar end shifters and rear derailleur if you're going the Shimano route. I also wanted 2x10 and bar end shifting. I have Dura Ace bar ends which are wonderful, but they are not in the Shimano Dyna-Sys group which is the new mtb system. I had a Deore XT derailleur but had to use a Wolftooth Tanpan to change the ratio for proper adjusting. It was a hassle, shifted poorly, was bulky and caused heel strike. So I switched to a 105 road derailleur. Of course, shifting is much better but now I'm limited to 32t low cog due to the medium cage.

    On your 650 point: Also, I am considering the 650b build (27.5"). I built my bike up with beefy 700, 36h Sun Rhyno lites (ironically, not lite, v heavy). Acceleration is sluggish with thick tires. I would like to have a smaller diameter for more zippy commuter bike, which is what I do on my Wolverine 99% of time.

    If you're riding gravel people say the 29er can smooth out the roughs and bumps better due to its wheel diameter. Just depends on your intents with the bike.

    Post pics when you get it built!

  4. #204
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    I have a quick question to Wolverine builders: for a person measuring 5 ft 11 inches (180 cm) which Wolverine size would be advised for a more sporty build? Size 54? Size 52?

    I would usually pick a 56 but with Soma I'm confused by the elongated top tube (as compared to seat tube).

  5. #205
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    Quote Originally Posted by roadscrape View Post
    One thing I've noticed reading through all the builds mentioned: everyone wants wider tires while using 700 rims. Why not 650B rims to get a wider tire? My original plan was to use 650B wheels. Just curious why on one has gone there yet.
    Soma has some info on its blog about 650b conversion for the Wolverine.

    Soma Feed: Guide to 650B Conversions on Soma Frames

  6. #206
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    What wheelset is everyone using with their wolverine?

  7. #207
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    I built my wheels. DT 350 hubs, DT comp spokes, DT brass nipples and Velocity Chukkers in 32 hole.

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  8. #208
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    Shimano Deore XT hubs and Sun Rhyno Lite 36h rims

  9. #209
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    Has anyone had any success getting the Tubus Tara front low rider rack on the Wolverine? I cannot get my rack to clear the front disc caliper bracket, and if I mount on the eyelet at the front of the fork, I cannot remove my wheel without removing the rack each time.

    Is anyone has been successful getting a rack on the front fork, let me know! Please post pics of Tara mounted to Wolverine front fork brake side detail. Would be super helpful.

    Thanks, fam

  10. #210
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    You do get that you can use spacers, right?

    Google foundinthemountains. I believe his blog has a buttload of pictures of him running a Tara on the Wolverine.

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  11. #211
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    @Agwan beat me too it - Morgan Taylor has successfully mounted Tubus Tara on the Wolverine.

  12. #212
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    Yeah, also, I ran a Surly Nice Rack on my Wolverine. It was just way too much rack for my needs.

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  13. #213
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    Quote Originally Posted by Agwan View Post
    You do get that you can use spacers, right?

    Google foundinthemountains. I believe his blog has a buttload of pictures of him running a Tara on the Wolverine.

    Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
    Roger that. I just wanted to see what other people had done. Spacers solve the problem but increase shear stress on the bolts. I'll just keep an eye on them when loaded.

    Agreed that Nice Racks are overkill, but the top deck is nice. I'm probably going to upgrade to the Janndd Extreme front.

  14. #214
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    I am also thinking of building a bike with Wolverine frame. This would be my first build, as so far I only had completely built bikes. I am 6' 4" with 37" inseam, and my ape index (arm span minus height) is 2". I am thinking to go with 62 frame as I will be using a flat bar and I don't like long stems.

    The bike will be 1 x 11. I plan to use the following components. PLEASE let me know if you see anything stupid!

    - Custom built wheels using White Industries CLD hubs and HED Belgium Plus rims (the wheel builder will decide on spokes, I have no preference)
    - Continental Top Contact II 37-622 tires
    - SRAM PG-1170 Cassette 11-36
    - SRAM S700 shifter
    - SRAM Force 1 rear derailleur, long cage
    - SRAM PC-1170 chain
    - Specialites TA Vega cranks, 180mm
    - Specialites TA 110 BCD spider
    - Wolf Tooth 110 BCD Cyclocross Chainring 48T
    - Phil Wood square tapper stainless steel bottom bracket
    - VT VX Trail pedals
    - Shimano Deore XT hydraulic disk brakes/brake levers/disks
    - Chris King headset - anybody knows which model is compatible with Wolverine frame/fork?
    - Selle Anatomica X Series seat
    - Modolo Mohican bar or a flat bar from LBS
    - Generic seatpost/stem from LBS

    All comments are welcome

  15. #215
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    Quote Originally Posted by boriss111 View Post
    I am also thinking of building a bike with Wolverine frame. This would be my first build, as so far I only had completely built bikes. I am 6' 4" with 37" inseam, and my ape index (arm span minus height) is 2". I am thinking to go with 62 frame as I will be using a flat bar and I don't like long stems.

    The bike will be 1 x 11. I plan to use the following components. PLEASE let me know if you see anything stupid!

    - Custom built wheels using White Industries CLD hubs and HED Belgium Plus rims (the wheel builder will decide on spokes, I have no preference)
    - Continental Top Contact II 37-622 tires
    - SRAM PG-1170 Cassette 11-36
    - SRAM S700 shifter
    - SRAM Force 1 rear derailleur, long cage
    - SRAM PC-1170 chain
    - Specialites TA Vega cranks, 180mm
    - Specialites TA 110 BCD spider
    - Wolf Tooth 110 BCD Cyclocross Chainring 48T
    - Phil Wood square tapper stainless steel bottom bracket
    - VT VX Trail pedals
    - Shimano Deore XT hydraulic disk brakes/brake levers/disks
    - Chris King headset - anybody knows which model is compatible with Wolverine frame/fork?
    - Selle Anatomica X Series seat
    - Modolo Mohican bar or a flat bar from LBS
    - Generic seatpost/stem from LBS

    All comments are welcome
    that chainring is huge. do you live in a really flat area? is the square taper bb required to get these cranks you want? otherwise i'd avoid that. you don't need the long cage derailuer to use that cassette. also force? i don't know if there is a sram flat bar shifter that will actuate that rd. you'd want one of their mtb rds. i also would get bigger tires.

  16. #216
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    @zmjones, thanks for the suggestions. I live in a really flat area. You would need to ride for 100km through a desert to get to mountains, which I don't plan ever doing. If I move to less flat area, I'll swap it for smaller one or a double.

    I was thinking Force would be better suited as I will mostly ride on pavement. Force 1 groupset has flat bar shifter, the S700.

    I am open to suggestions regarding the crankset, my only requirement is 180mm crank length. TA Vega is the only one I am aware of.

  17. #217
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    Anyone know the official torque specs for those drive side seat stay bolts that allow for a belt drive? If not, what would you recommend?

  18. #218
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    I'm really having an issue with my front brake howling. I've tried everything. And it is not contaminated. Starts howling after a couple hard breaks even with me rotors and organic pads. I think it has to do web the harmonics of the front fork. Rear break has never made a sound. Had anyone wise experienced this? I know this fork flexes alot. And i wonder if that had something to do with it

  19. #219
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    Fork flex will not make your brakes howl, ever.

    It's not a thing that happens.

    This fork flexes more than I like, but it's not a particularly flexy steel fork. Caliper alignment, leaking pistons, thinking it is not contaminated when it is. Using incompatible rotors and pads. Being Sram, incorrect break in procedure, the wrong adapter...

    All of those things can lead to brake howl. But it isn't going to be "fork harmonics"

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  20. #220
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    Avid bb7. Set up correctly. Multiple times.. The rear. No noise. Never had to mess with them.. Front. Nothing I do makes them quite down. You can hear the howl resonate from the spokes and everything. The bike shop was at a loss when i takes with them and showed them.. Pads are spotlesss.

  21. #221
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    Just an FYI. When the fork flexes you can watch it change the relationship of the caliper to disk alot. Part of why I'm thinking it's the fork. And it's only hard breaking that causes it. And that is when the fork not only flexes but actually twists at the caliper mount.

  22. #222
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    Yeah, Avid is Sram. Like I said, being Sram is a common cause of brake squeal. I'm not joking. Pads can look spotless and not be. Also, even the slightest of contaminants can cause Avids to howl, and no amount of decontamination will cure it. The only truly permanent solution I've found for people that buy that out dated brake, is to swap in some EBC gold pads and Shimano rotors.

    It's not the fork. I do this for a living. You bought extremely tempermental and somewhat outdated brakes.

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  23. #223
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    I have the shimano rotors. Made the noise with brand new pads twice. The rear never make a sound.. I will try the ebc gold pads and report back. Thank you

  24. #224
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    I would love to be able to use hydro shimano breaks, but with drop bars and shifter brake combo or stand unless I'm willing to spend alot more money, then this is the best solution.

  25. #225
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    Quote Originally Posted by Agwan View Post
    If the sliding drop outs are a pain, then you are definitely not experienced in any kind of bicycle with horizontal/adjustable drop outs. They're the lowest maintenance option available for such a bike.
    Agwan.

    Have you seen any official torque specs for the 4 bolts that tighten the sliding dropouts. I know paragon posts some specs for their dropouts but I read that the Wolverine dropouts are made by Tange. I am a new Wolverine owner. I plan slam to dropouts all the way forward (650b wheels) so I am not work about alignment but I was wondering how tight to crank the bolts.

  26. #226
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    Not everything has a precise torque spec. Especially huge chunks of Aluminum and steel covered in paint that may or may not effect the friction coefficient. I'd go with Paragons torque spec if you feel the need to torque these drops to a specific number. Otherwise, get them very tight.

    Also, Paragons titanium bolts for their sliders will fit the tange ones, and they're fantastic.

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  27. #227
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    Anyone out there have that black frame? Or the thru axle fork yet?

  28. #228
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    I am in the middle of the build of the orange wolverine with the thru axle fork. Unfortunately I am still waiting for some parts to arrive, so the 3/4 bike is decorating my living room for now.

    As soon as I get the bike complete I'll post the picture and share impressions of the thru axle fork.

  29. #229
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  30. #230
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    Soma Wolverine Builds-french-fit.jpg
    Name:  body measurements.PNG
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    Hi, I tried the online bike fit calculator, seems like its pointing to 56cm frame, but seems like its a bit small. I read others taller than me fits a 58cm frame.
    https://www.competitivecyclist.com/S...ke.jsp#results

    Any suggestions? I prefer to have a more upright posture while cycling.

    TIA
    Si Vis Pacem, Para Bellum

  31. #231
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    Hey everyone, I also have a 'fit' question. I can't stop thinking about the Wolverine, but I'm a shortie at 5'3". The Soma website says the 50cm frame fits 5'4" and taller.... I am hoping to build it with 650b wheels which will help with standover, but I can't help but wonder if the reach will be too long. Am I a fool to buy this bike based on my size?!

  32. #232
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    Anyone have an idea of how much weight a Soma Wolverine can handle? I am 220 lbs. and will use this bike to haul one kid attached at the fork crown using a Yepp Mini Ridealong seat and tow two more kids with a trailer. Curious if this bike is up to the task or if I should convert my Redline Monocog Flight to do this.

  33. #233
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    Quote Originally Posted by MinesPunk View Post
    Anyone have an idea of how much weight a Soma Wolverine can handle? I am 220 lbs. and will use this bike to haul one kid attached at the fork crown using a Yepp Mini Ridealong seat and tow two more kids with a trailer. Curious if this bike is up to the task or if I should convert my Redline Monocog Flight to do this.
    The Wolverine frame is a bit beefier being that it's intended use is Monstercross ish, but that is a question best asked directly to Soma IMO.
    Rigid SS 29er
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    Stop asking how much it weighs and just go ride it.

  34. #234
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    Thanks for the quick reply. I will check with them

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  35. #235
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    Soma came back and let me know the frame can handle my weight. They aren't sure about using a fork crown mounted kid seat so I will stick the slightest kid there when needed. Anyone have sizing recommendations for someone 6'1" and a 34" pants inseam? Torso and arms are proportional to my height

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  36. #236
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    I've put together a list of people's sizes and frames they bought with some additional info over how these fit together, all here: https://www.reddit.com/r/SomaFabrica...olverine_size/

    I hope that helps, as it's a tricky issue.

  37. #237
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    Hey guys. I seen this thread while trolling the internet and thought I would share my build after a long vacation from these forums. I built this last december when I sold my Vassago Fisticuff frame and fork and bought the Wolverine frame and fork. What a beauty to ride. So smooth and forgiving.

    FWIW I am 6' tall with equal proportions and I am riding a 58 with an 80 mm Salsa guide stem/cowbell bars. I was told by many that a 56 frame size would fit me but my LBS said I would be better on a 58. I hesitated but trusted him and glad I did cause he was right! Had one loaded overnight tour so far and this thing rides awesome loaded or empty.
    Soma Wolverine Builds-soma2.jpg

  38. #238
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    Quote Originally Posted by iowamtb View Post
    Hey guys. I seen this thread while trolling the internet and thought I would share my build after a long vacation from these forums. I built this last december when I sold my Vassago Fisticuff frame and fork and bought the Wolverine frame and fork. What a beauty to ride. So smooth and forgiving.

    FWIW I am 6' tall with equal proportions and I am riding a 58 with an 80 mm Salsa guide stem/cowbell bars. I was told by many that a 56 frame size would fit me but my LBS said I would be better on a 58. I hesitated but trusted him and glad I did cause he was right! Had one loaded overnight tour so far and this thing rides awesome loaded or empty.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    I think I'm about the same size as you. Mind sharing your inseam length and what specifics drove you to the 58 instead of 56? Thanks in advance

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  39. #239
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    Quote Originally Posted by MinesPunk View Post
    I think I'm about the same size as you. Mind sharing your inseam length and what specifics drove you to the 58 instead of 56? Thanks in advance

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    I was 6' 1/2" officially 8 years ago. At 46 I can't guarantee I haven't shrunk some lol . I have a 34" inseam and I am proportionate between my upper and lower torso so nothing looks longer or shorter than it should be lol. I had a Vassago Fisticuff prior that was an x large. I never could decide if that bike was too big for me or not. When I was at a Trek dealer in Omaha, on a Sunday to mail my frame and fork to the gent that bought it, I asked a workers opinion on what size frame they thought a guy like me might fit on. The guy asked my dimensions and looked at me and said I looked like a 56 would be a good size for me. I ordered the frame from my regular LBS, whom I have ridden with plenty of times and knows me fairly well, and I told him what I was told and he said he thought otherwise that a 58 would be a better choice. He gave various reasons regarding body angle, and other factors. I was hesitant. He said it was up to me that he could order a 56 for me if I wanted. I really trusted this guy so I took his advice on the 58. Honestly I think a 56 would have worked for me as well but this 58 is still one of the best riding, most comfortable bikes I have ever owned. Sorry for the long winded novel but you asked why I chose a 58 and I wanted to be specific. FWIW the ETT on this 58 wolverine is 6 mm longer than the ETT on my X Large Vassago that I sold. Even so it still feels comfy. Some of that is surely due to the awesome raked front fork and lower BB drop on the Wolverine. What can I say......It is a sweet sweet ride.

    Edit...You notice my spacer stack? I wonder how many spacers I would need on a 56 to get my bars at the level I prefer? Another reason you might look into a 58. 140 mm HT length on a 56 vs a 165 on a 58.

  40. #240
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    Quote Originally Posted by iowamtb View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Nice! Welcome back.
    Rigid SS 29er
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    Stop asking how much it weighs and just go ride it.

  41. #241
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    Quote Originally Posted by iowamtb View Post
    I was 6' 1/2" officially 8 years ago. At 46 I can't guarantee I haven't shrunk some lol . I have a 34" inseam and I am proportionate between my upper and lower torso so nothing looks longer or shorter than it should be lol. I had a Vassago Fisticuff prior that was an x large. I never could decide if that bike was too big for me or not. When I was at a Trek dealer in Omaha, on a Sunday to mail my frame and fork to the gent that bought it, I asked a workers opinion on what size frame they thought a guy like me might fit on. The guy asked my dimensions and looked at me and said I looked like a 56 would be a good size for me. I ordered the frame from my regular LBS, whom I have ridden with plenty of times and knows me fairly well, and I told him what I was told and he said he thought otherwise that a 58 would be a better choice. He gave various reasons regarding body angle, and other factors. I was hesitant. He said it was up to me that he could order a 56 for me if I wanted. I really trusted this guy so I took his advice on the 58. Honestly I think a 56 would have worked for me as well but this 58 is still one of the best riding, most comfortable bikes I have ever owned. Sorry for the long winded novel but you asked why I chose a 58 and I wanted to be specific. FWIW the ETT on this 58 wolverine is 6 mm longer than the ETT on my X Large Vassago that I sold. Even so it still feels comfy. Some of that is surely due to the awesome raked front fork and lower BB drop on the Wolverine. What can I say......It is a sweet sweet ride.

    Edit...You notice my spacer stack? I wonder how many spacers I would need on a 56 to get my bars at the level I prefer? Another reason you might look into a 58. 140 mm HT length on a 56 vs a 165 on a 58.
    You and I have the exact same dimensions and proportions. I appreciate you taking the time to provide such a detailed answer. I am also leaning towards the 58 since I don't like to feel cramped on bikes. This will mainly be a touring/towing rig for me when I sell my 19.5 inch Redline Monocog Flight. I have noticed many people have a lot of spacers on the wolverine, I prefer a slammed stem aesthetic so I think going with a 58 is my better option. Figure it may also let me try out some alt bars to keep myself from getting bored in the future.

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  42. #242
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    Quote Originally Posted by MinesPunk View Post
    You and I have the exact same dimensions and proportions. I appreciate you taking the time to provide such a detailed answer. I am also leaning towards the 58 since I don't like to feel cramped on bikes. This will mainly be a touring/towing rig for me when I sell my 19.5 inch Redline Monocog Flight. I have noticed many people have a lot of spacers on the wolverine, I prefer a slammed stem aesthetic so I think going with a 58 is my better option. Figure it may also let me try out some alt bars to keep myself from getting bored in the future.

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    I used to feel that way about slammed spacer stacks but lately have been migrating towards the traditional Randonneuring type of look. UW and u won't regret buying a Wolvie!

  43. #243
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    Quote Originally Posted by *OneSpeed* View Post
    Nice! Welcome back.
    Thanks.

  44. #244
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    Quote Originally Posted by iowamtb View Post
    I used to feel that way about slammed spacer stacks but lately have been migrating towards the traditional Randonneuring type of look. UW and u won't regret buying a Wolvie!
    I definitely dig the look but also enjoy the steering feel. As I age I am sure my back will require more spacers and I will become less aggressive in my riding. Towing my twin 20 month old boys has already helped with that to an extent

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  45. #245
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    Quote Originally Posted by MinesPunk View Post
    I definitely dig the look but also enjoy the steering feel. As I age I am sure my back will require more spacers and I will become less aggressive in my riding. Towing my twin 20 month old boys has already helped with that to an extent

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    Getting old's a ***** lol

  46. #246
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    Thought I'd throw my build into the mix. I'm starting out SS, but someday will add gears in the back (1x). I love this bike so far!

    Soma Wolverine Builds-img_20170409_180236-1-.jpg
    Soma Wolverine Builds-img_20170216_072900.jpg

    • 52cm Wolverine with Soma Fork (I'm 5'8")
    • FSA Pig Headset Black, 1 1/8"
    • SRAM /TruVativ Team GXP Bottom Bracket
    • SRAM FC S350-1 GXP X-Sync Chainring 42 Tooth
    • NINER COGALICIOUS COGS 20T Rear Cog
    • Wheels: Giant P-XC29-2 rims/Tracker hubs
    • Shimano Tiagra/Sora R400 Road Brake Lever Set
    • Tires: Challenge Gravel Grinder Race 700x38
    • SRAM PC-870 6/7/8 Speed Chain Silver/Gray,
    • Shimano XT SM-RT86 6 Bolt Ice-Tech Rotor 6 Bolt Style, 160mm
    • Shimano Cyclocross BR-CX77 Disc Brake Calipers
    • WTB Rocket Race Saddle Black, 142mm
    • Ritchey Comp Link Alloy Seatpost Black, 27.2, 400
    • Fizik Endurance Bar Tape Black

  47. #247
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    Quote Originally Posted by traff_ss View Post
    Thought I'd throw my build into the mix. I'm starting out SS, but someday will add gears in the back (1x). I love this bike so far!

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    • 52cm Wolverine with Soma Fork (I'm 5'8")
    • FSA Pig Headset Black, 1 1/8"
    • SRAM /TruVativ Team GXP Bottom Bracket
    • SRAM FC S350-1 GXP X-Sync Chainring 42 Tooth
    • NINER COGALICIOUS COGS 20T Rear Cog
    • Wheels: Giant P-XC29-2 rims/Tracker hubs
    • Shimano Tiagra/Sora R400 Road Brake Lever Set
    • Tires: Challenge Gravel Grinder Race 700x38
    • SRAM PC-870 6/7/8 Speed Chain Silver/Gray,
    • Shimano XT SM-RT86 6 Bolt Ice-Tech Rotor 6 Bolt Style, 160mm
    • Shimano Cyclocross BR-CX77 Disc Brake Calipers
    • WTB Rocket Race Saddle Black, 142mm
    • Ritchey Comp Link Alloy Seatpost Black, 27.2, 400
    • Fizik Endurance Bar Tape Black
    Nice!

  48. #248
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    Sheared Chain Stay

    Beware wolverine riders!

    Soma Wolverine Builds-img_3535.jpg

  49. #249
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    Quote Originally Posted by sellwinerugs View Post
    Beware wolverine riders!

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    Definitely need the story on how this happens and whether Soma warranties the frame

    Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

  50. #250
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    I know of one other guy this happened to, Soma warrantied it quickly. I'd get ahold of them.

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  51. #251
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    This isn't really a Wolverine issue, I've seen it happen to a lot of steel gravel bikes. It's what we get when we ask a road bike to also be a mountain bike. It should still be warrantied regardless. Awol has it happen once in a blue moon as well.

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  52. #252
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    Was there any indication that this was starting to happen or did it just snap suddenly? Did it cause you to get in a bad wreck? Hopefully nobody was hurt. Were you off roading or were you just simply riding on gravel?

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    Yes, SOMA is replacing the frame, no questions asked. I was not riding hard or even pedaling hard. I use my Wolverine mostly as commuter, and was riding home from work on a flat road. I think this kind of flaw is unacceptable, though I have heard of it happening before.

    I'm glad I wasn't a) far from home, b) in a place where there was no other way to get home, and c) not going faster or in heavy traffic or rough-roading.

    SOMA is requesting that I cut the frame in half and send them a picture. They say they can't be responsible for this frame any more now that it's compromised.

    I would prefer to repair the chainstay ($200 local frame builder, totally worth it) and sign a release waiver saying I wouldn't sue for any future damage, but they insist I destroy the frame.

  54. #254
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    Quote Originally Posted by sellwinerugs View Post
    Yes, SOMA is replacing the frame, no questions asked. I was not riding hard or even pedaling hard. I use my Wolverine mostly as commuter, and was riding home from work on a flat road. I think this kind of flaw is unacceptable, though I have heard of it happening before.

    I'm glad I wasn't a) far from home, b) in a place where there was no other way to get home, and c) not going faster or in heavy traffic or rough-roading.

    SOMA is requesting that I cut the frame in half and send them a picture. They say they can't be responsible for this frame any more now that it's compromised.

    I would prefer to repair the chainstay ($200 local frame builder, totally worth it) and sign a release waiver saying I wouldn't sue for any future damage, but they insist I destroy the frame.
    Soma's frames are built in Taiwan which is a good thing apparently for imported frames. Tange Prestige tubing is also supposed to be stronger and lighter (The steel walls are thinner) and I believe it may also be heat treated where as standard 4130 is not? Someone feel free to chime in and correct me if I am wrong. It is possible that the frame manufacturer got a bad batch of tubing. I am not sure if they receive it heat treated or if they heat treat it after assembly? Either way I am guessing it was either a bad batch or a faulty heat treatment as it appears to have broken in the middle not at a weld.

    Theres another member of this forum, who I cannot remember his name, that had a Soma Juice snap in half on the TT several years ago. It was all over the internet of course and some others stated that "this was not the first one they have heard of" at the time. But I believe I heard that Soma remedied the issue and I have not heard of anything since. I also have a B Side V3 and have put it through some fairly rough paces and even some hard jumps and so far , knock on wood, it is still going strong.

  55. #255
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    Quote Originally Posted by iowamtb View Post
    Was there any indication that this was starting to happen or did it just snap suddenly? Did it cause you to get in a bad wreck? Hopefully nobody was hurt. Were you off roading or were you just simply riding on gravel?
    This was a quick snap. No indication that there was anything wrong. I am a fastidious bike owner, and I inspect my frames regularly. This was a flaw with the steel, I'm thinking some imperfection in the actual metal.

    I think SOMA underspec'd the strength of the chainstays in an attempt to keep weight lower.

  56. #256
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    Quote Originally Posted by sellwinerugs View Post
    This was a quick snap. No indication that there was anything wrong. I am a fastidious bike owner, and I inspect my frames regularly. This was a flaw with the steel, I'm thinking some imperfection in the actual metal.

    I think SOMA underspec'd the strength of the chainstays in an attempt to keep weight lower.
    Could be although the Wolverine frame set is not their lightest. It weighs more than my B Side frame does, I believe, but I could be wrong.

  57. #257
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    Quote Originally Posted by iowamtb View Post
    Soma's frames are built in Taiwan which is a good thing apparently for imported frames. Tange Prestige tubing is also supposed to be stronger and lighter (The steel walls are thinner) and I believe it may also be heat treated where as standard 4130 is not? Someone feel free to chime in and correct me if I am wrong. It is possible that the frame manufacturer got a bad batch of tubing. I am not sure if they receive it heat treated or if they heat treat it after assembly? Either way I am opting for either a bad batch or a faulty heat treatment as it appears to have broken in the middle not at a weld.

    Theres another member of this forum, who I cannot remember his name, that had a Soma Juice snap in half on the TT several years ago. It was all over the internet of course and some others stated that "this was not the first one they have heard of" at the time. But I believe I heard that Soma remedied the isue and I have not heard of anything since. I also have a B Side V3 and have put it through some fairly rough paces and even some hard jumps and so far , knock on wood, it is still going strong.
    It broke at the vent hole on the inside of the chainstay. Not sure what those holes are for, perhaps a manufacturing hole?

  58. #258
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    Quote Originally Posted by sellwinerugs View Post
    It broke at the vent hole on the inside of the chainstay. Not sure what those holes are for, perhaps a manufacturing hole?
    They are to let moisture drain out. Any time, from my past steel experience, that you have a hole, you can have what they call "stress risers". If the hole had a tiny tiny edge that was not perfectly round for some reason, say a round hole with one section having an "angle" in it like an octagon (manufacturing defect obviously) then that could have caused a stress riser that weakened the frame at that point and allowed it to snap. Thats why a part with a smooth radiused edge will be stronger than one with a 90 degree edge.

  59. #259
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    Quote Originally Posted by Agwan View Post
    This isn't really a Wolverine issue, I've seen it happen to a lot of steel gravel bikes. It's what we get when we ask a road bike to also be a mountain bike. It should still be warrantied regardless. Awol has it happen once in a blue moon as well.

    Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
    What do you mean "when we ask a road bike to also be a mountain bike"? Are you referring to geometry compromises?

    I have only taken this bike off road a few times (literally less than 5 times), and those were smooth gravel rides. I commute on city streets 99% of time. I don't abuse my bikes. If a frame can't hold up to that, I don't want it. I think this was just a bad batch of Tange.

  60. #260
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    That's a common point of failure. I broke my Kona Unit chainstay clean through last year at the vent hole just like yours. It's likely not a design flaw, or a tubing defect, but a welding error. It's not hard to over-heat a tube when tig welding and weaken the tube.

    Some bad info above. That is definitely in the heat affected zone from welding and likely contributed to the failure.

    How old is your frame? Was it treated internally with frame saver?

    The vent holes on the chainstay are to allow gas to escape during the welding process, they're on the side of the tube, not the bottom like a drain would be. The only time a hole is meant to drain fluid is if it's at the bottom of a tube or a drain hole in the bottom of the BB shell, which i've drilled into a couple frames myself. I live and ride in a wet environment frequently and want to let the water out.

    This kind of thing happens. If it was a design flaw it would be more common. it's scary but wouldn't stop me from buying one, which i'm still considering.

    I'm glad Soma is taking care of you. I would respect their wishes and destroy the frame. All manufacturers request this and most require you to cut the BB out of the frame and ship it to them. (alternately, if you decide to have it repaired and it fails, don't post it all over the internet. That's their biggest fear, aside from someone getting injured.)

    Frame Saver the new frame. It's unlikely you'll get another defect, but it's worth it to me for piece of mind if you plan to keep the frame long term.
    Rigid SS 29er
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    Stop asking how much it weighs and just go ride it.

  61. #261
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    Quote Originally Posted by *OneSpeed* View Post
    That's a common point of failure. I broke my Kona Unit chainstay clean through last year at the vent hole just like yours. It's likely not a design flaw, or a tubing defect, but a welding error. It's not hard to over-heat a tube when tig welding and weaken the tube.

    Some bad info above. That is definitely in the heat affected zone from welding and likely contributed to the failure.

    How old is your frame? Was it treated internally with frame saver?

    The vent holes on the chainstay are to allow gas to escape during the welding process, they're on the side of the tube, not the bottom like a drain would be. The only time a hole is meant to drain fluid is if it's at the bottom of a tube or a drain hole in the bottom of the BB shell, which i've drilled into a couple frames myself. I live and ride in a wet environment frequently and want to let the water out.

    This kind of thing happens. If it was a design flaw it would be more common. it's scary but wouldn't stop me from buying one, which i'm still considering.

    I'm glad Soma is taking care of you. I would respect their wishes and destroy the frame. All manufacturers request this and most require you to cut the BB out of the frame and ship it to them. (alternately, if you decide to have it repaired and it fails, don't post it all over the internet. That's their biggest fear, aside from someone getting injured.)

    Frame Saver the new frame. It's unlikely you'll get another defect, but it's worth it to me for piece of mind if you plan to keep the frame long term.
    Very helpful comment! Thank you. Frame was purchased in August 2016. I have never heard of Frame Saver, but I will treat my new bike. I hope to have the bike a long time. I love my Wolverine and can't wait to be back in the saddle on one. For now I'm riding my vintage tourer "Townie." Just not the same . . .

  62. #262
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    ugh, that sucks. I was hoping it was older. At least i broke mine on a chunky offroad downhill. I beat the snot out of that thing and it finally gave up.

    if it's any consolation, I broke three frames last year. two steel and one aluminum. like I said, shit happens.
    Rigid SS 29er
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    Stop asking how much it weighs and just go ride it.

  63. #263
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    Quote Originally Posted by *OneSpeed* View Post
    That's a common point of failure. I broke my Kona Unit chainstay clean through last year at the vent hole just like yours. It's likely not a design flaw, or a tubing defect, but a welding error. It's not hard to over-heat a tube when tig welding and weaken the tube.

    Some bad info above. That is definitely in the heat affected zone from welding and likely contributed to the failure.

    How old is your frame? Was it treated internally with frame saver?

    The vent holes on the chainstay are to allow gas to escape during the welding process, they're on the side of the tube, not the bottom like a drain would be. The only time a hole is meant to drain fluid is if it's at the bottom of a tube or a drain hole in the bottom of the BB shell, which i've drilled into a couple frames myself. I live and ride in a wet environment frequently and want to let the water out.

    This kind of thing happens. If it was a design flaw it would be more common. it's scary but wouldn't stop me from buying one, which i'm still considering.

    I'm glad Soma is taking care of you. I would respect their wishes and destroy the frame. All manufacturers request this and most require you to cut the BB out of the frame and ship it to them. (alternately, if you decide to have it repaired and it fails, don't post it all over the internet. That's their biggest fear, aside from someone getting injured.)

    Frame Saver the new frame. It's unlikely you'll get another defect, but it's worth it to me for piece of mind if you plan to keep the frame long term.
    You're right that was some bad information on my part and I apologize. Come to think of it I do remember hearing that those holes were for gas to escape when welding some years ago but I had forgotten all about that. I didn't use frame saver on my Wolverine frame but it is the first steel frame I have bought that I didn't do that too. I wonder if I shouldn't buy a can and strip my bike back down to the bare frame and go ahead and treat it?

  64. #264
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    No big deal, minor difference.

    BTW it's not a bad idea to cover those holes with electrical tape. just make sure the frame is good and dry so your not trapping moisture in there.
    Rigid SS 29er
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    Stop asking how much it weighs and just go ride it.

  65. #265
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    Quote Originally Posted by *OneSpeed* View Post
    No big deal, minor difference.

    BTW it's not a bad idea to cover those holes with electrical tape. just make sure the frame is good and dry so your not trapping moisture in there.
    Stupid question but can a hollow tube frame build up condensation from temperature differences over time? If not and you wanted to block the holes just stick a little dab of silicone in there or something

  66. #266
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    Quote Originally Posted by iowamtb View Post
    Stupid question but can a hollow tube frame build up condensation from temperature differences over time? If not and you wanted to block the holes just stick a little dab of silicone in there or something
    yeah, there's all kinds of ways for moisture to get in there. seatpost, BB, vent holes, rack/fender/bottle cage mounts. That's why if you live in a wet climate (especially salty) it's important to coat the inside of the frame IMO. Some manufacturers put drain holes in the bottom of the BB shell. I've even seen them on aluminum frames. It's not a bad idea.

    Many new steel frames are coming with the ED coating inside the frame which helps, but frame saver (or Boeshields T-9 I've read) is the best way to protect the frame.
    Rigid SS 29er
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    Stop asking how much it weighs and just go ride it.

  67. #267
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    Lemond poprad
    Specialized Awol
    Specialized rockhopper
    Specialized Stumpjumper
    Soma Wolverine
    Kona jake
    Kona Honky Tonk
    Surly cross check
    Surly steamroller

    I can go on, a heat treated tube got overheated while being welded. Because steel has to be welded by hand. And humans are imperfect. None of those bikes are bad. Just a few bikes I've seen this failure on.

    Because human error is to blame, it should still be warrantied. But it is not evidence of a nefarious systemic failure or design flaw.

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  68. #268
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    you can add Salsa El Mariachi to that list, and every Lynskey ever made.

    I've also recently seen 3-4 carbon frames with cracks including good names like Niner and Pivot.

    I've talked to a few frame builders recently, a couple of which were not fans of tig welding. they favored filet brazing because it uses much less heat and thus does not weaken the tubes as easily. Of course a skilled builder can use any method or material, but there is a certain failure rate on mass produced frames made overseas. stuff happens.
    Rigid SS 29er
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    Stop asking how much it weighs and just go ride it.

  69. #269
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    Quote Originally Posted by *OneSpeed* View Post
    you can add Salsa El Mariachi to that list, and every Lynskey ever made.

    I've also recently seen 3-4 carbon frames with cracks including good names like Niner and Pivot.

    I've talked to a few frame builders recently, a couple of which were not fans of tig welding. they favored filet brazing because it uses much less heat and thus does not weaken the tubes as easily. Of course a skilled builder can use any method or material, but there is a certain failure rate on mass produced frames made overseas. stuff happens.
    Surprisingly my Lynskey road bike is still going strong. I am expecting to sell it soon. At this point I need good customer support. Can't get that with Redline anymore so the Lynskey and Monocog are on the chopping block and the Wolverine will likely replace them both

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  70. #270
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    Quote Originally Posted by MinesPunk View Post
    SurprisinglyÖ
    exactly, seems people just buy them expecting them to crack. They made a TON of frames and honestly i have no idea if their failure rate is any higher than anyone else, but I sure do hear about it a lot. I was temped by the low prices recently but was strongly warned to steer clear.

    I know there are plenty of happy customers out there though. Hard to hate on a Ti frame at those prices. besides, in many cases it can be welded.
    Rigid SS 29er
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    Stop asking how much it weighs and just go ride it.

  71. #271
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    Quote Originally Posted by *OneSpeed* View Post
    exactly, seems people just buy them expecting them to crack. They made a TON of frames and honestly i have no idea if their failure rate is any higher than anyone else, but I sure do hear about it a lot. I was temped by the low prices recently but was strongly warned to steer clear.

    I know there are plenty of happy customers out there though. Hard to hate on a Ti frame at those prices. besides, in many cases it can be welded.
    Yeah, it has been a great bike for me. If it accepted discs and wider tires I would never get rid of it. I am lucky enough to not need any custom geometry and that bike fits me like a glove

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  73. #273
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    My current setup
    1x11 with XT rd and Microshift MTB bar end - works perfectly!

    36t Wolftooth chainring, definitely easy to spin out on flat ground, but climbs easy enough.

    Finally got some compressionless housing for the Spyre brakes, and bumped up to a 180mm front rotor, RT56, as specified by Shimano for the pads in the Spyre. Tektro levers work much better with these brakes than 5700 too - I think the Shimano SLR pull ratio is not standard road pull ratio. All in all, it definitely stops well enough, but still nowhere nearly as well as a halfway decent set of hydraulics. Kinda lusting over the new Hylex RS, would love to hear some real reviews, if anyone here has used them.

    I also up-ed the tires, and went with the Nine Lines - super fast big tires, and they ride great with 25psi. Still rocking the WTB i23 with XT hubs, pretty great setup for me. Soaks up all the rough roads Oakland can dish up, with nary a hiccup. Not much room for mud though, and I've been thinking about going with something smaller to be able to slide the axle further forward.

    This bike is pretty much in Commute mode for good now, since I recently bought an MTB to handle off-road duties. Hence the Blackburn rack, to carry my daughter in the baby seat, and the Saint pedals, for easy neighborhood rides.

    Also curious about the new thru-axle fork. I would love to stiffen up the front end, but SOMA claims tire clearance would take a hit - not sure how I feel about that, but I suppose it would probably be fine with a normal size gravel tire, which I will probably switch to when I wear out these Nine Lines. Anyone out there have the new fork installed yet, and if so, how is it? Definitely curious about tire clearance, stiffness compared to the original fork, and overall worthiness - is it worth the $200 plus a new wheel/hub?

  74. #274
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    New Soma Wolverine build - loving it!

    Soma Wolverine Builds-fullsizeoutput_56e4.jpg
    Not sure if this pic of my new build posted... but I'm loving her so far!

  75. #275
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    Quote Originally Posted by rmf17 View Post
    Not sure if this pic of my new build posted... but I'm loving her so far!
    Pic posted - I dig the black and brown theme!

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    I do too - though I feel I need to introduce some colour somewhere lol! I'm going to load her up soon for a weekend overnighter so my extra gear should do the trick

  77. #277
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    good to see some new pics, needing inspiration! planning a new commuter build and have come here for ideas

  78. #278
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    I am very interested in the Wolverine, but I have a concern about the short head tube. I see lots of pics with tons of stem spacers. I am one of those guys with shorter legs and a long torso. I used to have a Schwinn Fastback CX that had a compact frame and a 57cm top tube and a 155mm head tube and I still had to put several spacers under the stem. Any feedback on that?

  79. #279
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    It's not custom tuned to your body. The headtube is a couple centimeters taller than a Stragglers, but it is what it is. If you have an issue with the aesthetics. You'll need to make that choice on your own.

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  80. #280
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    UPDDATE

    Quote Originally Posted by sellwinerugs View Post
    Beware wolverine riders!

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    I got my frame in the mail (no new fork though). Had to pay $50 to get BB shell threads chased and headset and bottom bracket swapped over at my local shop because I am not a bicycle mechanic. Luckily for me I was able to get the other components on but will probably spend another $30 - $40 on a tune up to make sure it's all in place.

    I contacted SOMA hoping they would cover these costs, but they can only warranty the frame.

    Can someone explain why should a customer should be out another $80 - $90 of their own money for a defective frame that SOMA sold them?

    Customer service at SOMA is poor at best. Does not bode well for future relationship between me and SOMA. Should have gone with the Straggler.

  81. #281
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    Quote Originally Posted by sellwinerugs View Post
    UPDDATE



    I got my frame in the mail (no new fork though). Had to pay $50 to get BB shell threads chased and headset and bottom bracket swapped over at my local shop because I am not a bicycle mechanic. Luckily for me I was able to get the other components on but will probably spend another $30 - $40 on a tune up to make sure it's all in place.

    I contacted SOMA hoping they would cover these costs, but they can only warranty the frame.

    Can someone explain why should a customer should be out another $80 - $90 of their own money for a defective frame that SOMA sold them?

    Customer service at SOMA is poor at best. Does not bode well for future relationship between me and SOMA. Should have gone with the Straggler.
    You got a free replacement frame, IMO they took care of the customer. Most companies will make you pay for shipping of the replacement frame, and your on your own for parts swap/assembly. You can't reasonably expect them to do much more. Your experience would not be any different with another company.

    shit happens, frames break. Instead of being sour, enjoy your shiny new frame. Treat it with frame saver, and smile every time you ride it. Otherwise perhaps you should take up jogging.
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  82. #282
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    Quote Originally Posted by sellwinerugs View Post
    UPDDATE



    I got my frame in the mail (no new fork though). Had to pay $50 to get BB shell threads chased and headset and bottom bracket swapped over at my local shop because I am not a bicycle mechanic. Luckily for me I was able to get the other components on but will probably spend another $30 - $40 on a tune up to make sure it's all in place.

    I contacted SOMA hoping they would cover these costs, but they can only warranty the frame.

    Can someone explain why should a customer should be out another $80 - $90 of their own money for a defective frame that SOMA sold them?

    Customer service at SOMA is poor at best. Does not bode well for future relationship between me and SOMA. Should have gone with the Straggler.
    I think part of the labor should have been covered by the shop - SOMA can help them out directly too. A skilled mechanic with proper tools should be able to swap parts in less than an hour - pretty sure my shop would cover that cost. But, I also bought my frame and most of my parts from them, not to mention 2 other bikes, and a ton of tires, tubes, and random other things.

    That whole process should have been somewhat streamlined though - you take the broken frame back to the shop that you bought it from, they swap parts, and next day you walk out a happy customer.

    But shit happens, every shop is different, and SOMA has always been a little "whatever" about their customers. Sorry you didn't have a better experience.

  83. #283
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    Quote Originally Posted by *OneSpeed* View Post
    You got a free replacement frame, IMO they took care of the customer. Most companies will make you pay for shipping of the replacement frame, and your on your own for parts swap/assembly. You can't reasonably expect them to do much more. Your experience would not be any different with another company.

    shit happens, frames break. Instead of being sour, enjoy your shiny new frame. Treat it with frame saver, and smile every time you ride it. Otherwise perhaps you should take up jogging.
    You've got a point, I am generally happy with the bike, but I'm not just some whiny sissy. I essentially paid $100 more than any other Wolverine rider for the privilege of having a defective frame.

    Edit: Situation has been amicably resolved with SOMA.
    Last edited by sellwinerugs; 05-18-2017 at 04:01 AM.

  84. #284
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    Quote Originally Posted by sellwinerugs View Post
    Edit: Situation has been amicably resolved with SOMA.
    Glad to hear they took care of you.

    Unrelated, here's a random question for the Wolverine crowd... does anyone else's sliding dropouts not align quite perfectly? If I put the rear axle all the way forward or all the way back in the sliders, the wheel won't quite align in the chainstays. Nudging the NDS forward a few mms or the drive side aft a few mms fixes this. Bike rides fine, tracks straight, and has no signs of cracks. Been like this since day one. I did the "string around the seat tube" and "string around the headtube" alignment tests, and it seems straight as an arrow on my pretty low tech test.

    Again, not a huge concern for me, just wondering if anyone else's is like this too.

  85. #285
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    Quote Originally Posted by SpeedyStein View Post
    Glad to hear they took care of you.

    Unrelated, here's a random question for the Wolverine crowd... does anyone else's sliding dropouts not align quite perfectly? If I put the rear axle all the way forward or all the way back in the sliders, the wheel won't quite align in the chainstays. Nudging the NDS forward a few mms or the drive side aft a few mms fixes this. Bike rides fine, tracks straight, and has no signs of cracks. Been like this since day one. I did the "string around the seat tube" and "string around the headtube" alignment tests, and it seems straight as an arrow on my pretty low tech test.

    Again, not a huge concern for me, just wondering if anyone else's is like this too.
    Yep mine is the same way. I believe my fisticuff was as well. I asked my LBS who ordered my frame for me and he explained it as something to do with being built that way to account for torque and flex. He knew what he was saying but I just cannot remember exactly how he put it. He said most frames are built that way.

  86. #286
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    Quote Originally Posted by iowamtb View Post
    Yep mine is the same way. I believe my fisticuff was as well. I asked my LBS who ordered my frame for me and he explained it as something to do with being built that way to account for torque and flex. He knew what he was saying but I just cannot remember exactly how he put it. He said most frames are built that way.
    Thanks for the background info, I've never heard that before. Still seems strange that the sliders aren't perfectly square though. Definitely threw me for a loop when I first built it up and saw that the wheel didn't sit evenly between the stays with the sliders at either extreme end. I almost thought my wheel was dished weird at first! Thanks again for the info!

  87. #287
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    Quote Originally Posted by SpeedyStein View Post
    Thanks for the background info, I've never heard that before. Still seems strange that the sliders aren't perfectly square though. Definitely threw me for a loop when I first built it up and saw that the wheel didn't sit evenly between the stays with the sliders at either extreme end. I almost thought my wheel was dished weird at first! Thanks again for the info!
    You're welcome. It threw me for a loop as well that's why I asked LOL

  88. #288
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    I call BS on this. By this rationale, you should set your wheel out of alignment to account for torque or flex? It's just production tolerance.

    Quote Originally Posted by iowamtb View Post
    Yep mine is the same way. I believe my fisticuff was as well. I asked my LBS who ordered my frame for me and he explained it as something to do with being built that way to account for torque and flex. He knew what he was saying but I just cannot remember exactly how he put it. He said most frames are built that way.
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  89. #289
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    Quote Originally Posted by seat_boy View Post
    I call BS on this. By this rationale, you should set your wheel out of alignment to account for torque or flex? It's just production tolerance.
    No you don't set your wheel out of alignment. He is saying that when his wheel is centered it does not appear to be centered in the sliders. It is a tiny tiny amounts only the anal people will notice it.

  90. #290
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    are we sure this is not a wheel dish issue? I understand minor manufacturer defects, most frames have them, but I've not heard of intentionally offsetting dropouts for torque.
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  91. #291
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    Quote Originally Posted by *OneSpeed* View Post
    are we sure this is not a wheel dish issue? I understand minor manufacturer defects, most frames have them, but I've not heard of intentionally offsetting dropouts for torque.
    No actually what prompted me to ask my LBS was.....being EXTREMELY ANAL (maybe too much).....I noticed that when I had the wheel centered in the chain stays, not only was the sliders a tiny bit off but it wouldn't necessarily be centered either on the upper part of the seat tube or on the seat stays. If I centered it up high it was off fraction down low. By fraction I mean maybe a 32nd of an inch. Nothing to worry about but I thought my frame was "twisted" slightly. My bike shop mechanic assured me that a lot of frames seemed to be this way. He said his Vassago Jaberwaky was the same way. I may have erred when I said "he knew what he was saying". Let's put it this way, when I asked him the question, he wasn't surprised or didn't look like he was clueless. He immediately had an answer. I think he was saying that it was very common or "normal" and I think he was assuming it was something to do with what he told me. He is good friends personally with Tom, who owns Vassago cycles, so maybe Tom had told him this once? I don't know this but I am just guessing at where he may have heard the info that he gave me.

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    I'm planning a wolverine build and I'm trying to decide between QR and thru-axle -- those who have built up with thru-axles, which hubs and axles did you use? The frame specs say 135x10 in the rear, and from what I can tell Hope hubs are pretty much the only option. Or can you fit a 142x12 somehow? Seems like you'd have to bend the frame out?

    Any opinions whether the new thru-axle fork is worth it? I plan on using it for a good cross section of riding... road, gravel, touring.

  93. #293
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    I'm no expert but I never understood what you gained by going with a thru axle on a bike like this. It's not like you're putting it through the stuff you're going to be putting a full suspension mountain bike through where you need the extra stiffness. This is just me asking a question someone help me understand.

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    Quote Originally Posted by rrrrrok View Post
    I'm planning a wolverine build and I'm trying to decide between QR and thru-axle -- those who have built up with thru-axles, which hubs and axles did you use? The frame specs say 135x10 in the rear, and from what I can tell Hope hubs are pretty much the only option. Or can you fit a 142x12 somehow? Seems like you'd have to bend the frame out?

    Any opinions whether the new thru-axle fork is worth it? I plan on using it for a good cross section of riding... road, gravel, touring.
    You can get different sliders for the rear drop outs to get 142x12 - easy swap. SOMA used to have the part #s you needed on their site too, but I think they took them down a while ago. I bet they would tell you though, if you emailed.

    I am also curious about the thruaxle fork - SOMA says that tire clearance is reduced, which might not be ideal for me. But, the regular qr fork is super flexy, so I am tempted to try the thru axle fork anyway. If you build one, let us know how it goes!

  95. #295
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    I'm very tempted by the thru axle fork also. That front fork under my weight flexes alot when I'm breaking and I think that adds to the front break squeal.

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    Quote Originally Posted by SpeedyStein View Post
    You can get different sliders for the rear drop outs to get 142x12 - easy swap. SOMA used to have the part #s you needed on their site too, but I think they took them down a while ago. I bet they would tell you though, if you emailed.
    Sure, but the frame itself is made to fit a 135mm wide hub. So adding a thru-axle dropout doesn't change that. How do you get an extra 7mm? Seems like I'm missing something obvious here

    The paragon site also says that you can use the 142mm axle on a 135mm frame/hub, but does this mean that 7mm of the axle sticks out on one end?

    I suppose the obvious option is to perhaps use a thru-axle fork and a standard QR hub in the back.

  97. #297
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    Quote Originally Posted by rrrrrok View Post
    Sure, but the frame itself is made to fit a 135mm wide hub. So adding a thru-axle dropout doesn't change that. How do you get an extra 7mm? Seems like I'm missing something obvious here

    The paragon site also says that you can use the 142mm axle on a 135mm frame/hub, but does this mean that 7mm of the axle sticks out on one end?

    I suppose the obvious option is to perhaps use a thru-axle fork and a standard QR hub in the back.
    I think the sliding dropouts are offset to make the extra width. The frame stays the same, the dropout is shaped differently than the 135mm ones. The 135mm sliders basically go straight down from the connection with the frame, and I think the 142 ones flare outward from the frame. Maybe someone who actually has them can clarify/post a pic?

  98. #298
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    Quote Originally Posted by SpeedyStein View Post
    Glad to hear they took care of you.

    Unrelated, here's a random question for the Wolverine crowd... does anyone else's sliding dropouts not align quite perfectly? If I put the rear axle all the way forward or all the way back in the sliders, the wheel won't quite align in the chainstays. Nudging the NDS forward a few mms or the drive side aft a few mms fixes this. Bike rides fine, tracks straight, and has no signs of cracks. Been like this since day one. I did the "string around the seat tube" and "string around the headtube" alignment tests, and it seems straight as an arrow on my pretty low tech test.

    Again, not a huge concern for me, just wondering if anyone else's is like this too.
    mine same, but its no big deal. but, the up and down axis of rear dropouts is not straight. i use a small, approx 1mm pc of plastic, inserted between axle and dropout on disc side, to make the wheel centered between the seat stays

  99. #299
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    Quote Originally Posted by joesno-flats View Post
    mine same, but its no big deal. but, the up and down axis of rear dropouts is not straight. i use a small, approx 1mm pc of plastic, inserted between axle and dropout on disc side, to make the wheel centered between the seat stays
    That's a good idea! I thought about filing the paint off the inside of one side of the dropouts, but I like your idea better.

  100. #300
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    Quote Originally Posted by rrrrrok View Post
    Sure, but the frame itself is made to fit a 135mm wide hub. So adding a thru-axle dropout doesn't change that. How do you get an extra 7mm? Seems like I'm missing something obvious here
    The dropouts are different but still fit in the frame. Each side is offset 3.5mm to accommodate the wider hub.

    Quote Originally Posted by SpeedyStein View Post
    I think the sliding dropouts are offset to make the extra width. The frame stays the same, the dropout is shaped differently than the 135mm ones. The 135mm sliders basically go straight down from the connection with the frame, and I think the 142 ones flare outward from the frame. Maybe someone who actually has them can clarify/post a pic?
    close, not flared, just offset.

    Quote Originally Posted by joesno-flats View Post
    mine same, but its no big deal. but, the up and down axis of rear dropouts is not straight. i use a small, approx 1mm pc of plastic, inserted between axle and dropout on disc side, to make the wheel centered between the seat stays
    That's not a great idea. It sounds like the dish on your rear wheel is off, not that the dropouts are off. Take your wheel to a bike shop and have it checked.
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    yes, off center wheel is a possibility, but i have a few wheels, and the wheel is straight.
    Last edited by joesno-flats; 05-27-2017 at 04:06 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by *OneSpeed* View Post
    That's not a great idea. It sounds like the dish on your rear wheel is off, not that the dropouts are off. Take your wheel to a bike shop and have it checked.
    I know that for my situation, it's the frame, not the wheel. I've used multiple wheels on my Wolverine, and also used the same wheels on two other bikes - both with standard rear drop outs. Perhaps the Wolverine is setup to have a non-standard dish? Unlike joesno-flats, my bike is only off in one dimension, so just keeping one slider a smidge further forward than the other entirely solves my problem - sounds like his is off on the vertical axis as well. I still think that maybe SOMA's QC probably isn't up to the same standard that others might be - could be part of how they can offer a high quality steel frame at what is a bargain compared to similar offerings. Would also explain the tube failure above too, and the paint that chips when you look at it.

    But, other than the few items I've mentioned earlier in this thread, this is a pretty awesome bike, and SOMA was early to the game with a bike that fits huge tires with low, long, and slack geo meant for drop bars. I think a Wolverine 2.0 would be nice, maybe with shorter stays (read: 29x2.1 tire clearance with 425mm stays), standard dropouts with better placed rack mounts, and a stiffer fork. Boost hub spacing would help modernize this frame by allowing for more wheel compatibility, and stiffen up the available wheels and frame, but that spec would also pigeon hole it into a more off-road dedicated bike. But, isn't that the point of this bike - an off road ready touring-ish bike? While we are dreaming, how about Shimano make a dedicated 1x11/12 group that isn't electronic or a hodgepodge?

    Ok, end babble, time to go ride.

  103. #303
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    2017 Soma Wolverine build 56cm. SRAM 1x11 and fat tires!!

    Just finished a magnificent matte black Wolverine build, done 100 or so miles on it and it's pretty darn good!!!

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    I just built a 2017 Wolverine with the 15mm thru axle fork, much beefier than the standard drop out fork, no flexing, and I'm running a 180 disc w/hydro SRAM up front and 160 disc out back.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Greg878 View Post
    I just built a 2017 Wolverine with the 15mm thru axle fork, much beefier than the standard drop out fork, no flexing, and I'm running a 180 disc w/hydro SRAM up front and 160 disc out back.
    Nice! How is the tire clearance compared to the standard fork?

  106. #306
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    40cc clement xplor MSO's

    Quote Originally Posted by SpeedyStein View Post
    Nice! How is the tire clearance compared to the standard fork?
    I'm running 40cc clement xplor MSO's on 700cc HED wheels with I9 CX disc hubs...there's room for bigger tires with the 15mm thru axle fork. I also opted for Paragon 142x12 solid axle rear drops. These are the same drops another bike company I frequent uses...Vassago cycles in AZ uses Paragon drops on their MTB frames. I just ordered one of their Donnybrook gravel frames. Going to build it up similar to the Wolverine and see what's what between the two. How does one post pics to go with the thread? I've got pics of the Wolverine build...

  107. #307
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greg878 View Post
    I'm running 40cc clement xplor MSO's on 700cc HED wheels with I9 CX disc hubs...there's room for bigger tires with the 15mm thru axle fork. I also opted for Paragon 142x12 solid axle rear drops. These are the same drops another bike company I frequent uses...Vassago cycles in AZ uses Paragon drops on their MTB frames. I just ordered one of their Donnybrook gravel frames. Going to build it up similar to the Wolverine and see what's what between the two. How does one post pics to go with the thread? I've got pics of the Wolverine build...
    The easiest way to post pics is to use a web hosting service like Shutterfly or Photobucket. Then you can just copy the link for the pic on the hosting service and then paste it into your post.

    There are actually quite a few frame builders using the sliding dropouts these days. They are great for disc and single speed at the same time, but I think for pretty much any other application I am going stick to traditional dropouts on my next bike.

    I am thinking pretty hard about transitioning to thru axle, just to stiffen everything up a little. Would love to ride a bike with the thru axle fork, just for comparison. I would basically need to buy everything though - fork, wheels, tires, and dropouts. Would be a pretty expensive operation for a bike that is basically now just a commuter with some dirt mixed in every so often.

  108. #308
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    Here's a pic of the clearance on the thru axle
    IMG_2715.JPG. I have a Steel Vassago Fisticuff with 33cc Clement xplor USH's and skewers front and rear. VS the solid axle (front and rear) Wolverine...I like riding both bikes. The thing that makes it for me are the bigger tires on the Wolverine combined with the solid feed back from the axles when the trail gets some good roll to it it. The Wolverine just feels a bit more well sorted underneath you. That's the.best way to describe it. I've had plenty of epic rides on the Fisticuff too, but it's a little different experience in terms of how solid the ride on the thru axles is....not better, just different. I hope that makes sense. IMG_2714.JPG

    It was about another $70 to switch the Tange drops to the 142x12 Paragon drops and then add the shimano rear axle. (Price for the rear axle and revised Paragon sliding drops). The optional Wolverine fork was on biketiresdirect.com for $189 and it came with the axle. So it is a bit of an out lay to go solid axle vs just keeping it economical and running good old skewers. Another solid axle bike is this Ti Vassago TKO. It will take big tires too but I mostly use this for road riding on 28cc Panaracers. IMG_2707.JPG
    Here's the Fisticuff of these pics actually work...IMG_2543.JPG

  109. #309
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greg878 View Post
    Here's a pic of the clearance on the thru axle
    IMG_2715.JPG. I have a Steel Vassago Fisticuff with 33cc Clement xplor USH's and skewers front and rear. VS the solid axle (front and rear) Wolverine...I like riding both bikes. The thing that makes it for me are the bigger tires on the Wolverine combined with the solid feed back from the axles when the trail gets some good roll to it it. The Wolverine just feels a bit more well sorted underneath you. That's the.best way to describe it. I've had plenty of epic rides on the Fisticuff too, but it's a little different experience in terms of how solid the ride on the thru axles is....not better, just different. I hope that makes sense. IMG_2714.JPG

    It was about another $70 to switch the Tange drops to the 142x12 Paragon drops and then add the shimano rear axle. (Price for the rear axle and revised Paragon sliding drops). The optional Wolverine fork was on biketiresdirect.com for $189 and it came with the axle. So it is a bit of an out lay to go solid axle vs just keeping it economical and running good old skewers. Another solid axle bike is this Ti Vassago TKO. It will take big tires too but I mostly use this for road riding on 28cc Panaracers. IMG_2707.JPG
    Here's the Fisticuff of these pics actually work...IMG_2543.JPG
    Your pictures didn't make it... if you post them to photobucket, from the app you just select the picture you want to share, and on the bottom toolbar there is a little i with a circle around it. Poke that button and a screen pops up with a bunch of different links - I usually use the IMG link - it gives you the URL that web browsers will translate into your picture.

    I thought pretty hard about the Fisticuff when I ordered the Wolverine, but it was the tire clearance that sold me on the Wolverine. Plus I couldn't find a local shop to order the Fisticuff for me, and SOMA is literally 45 minutes away.

    But yeah, to convert to thru axle now would probably cost me $5-600, since I would need wheels and probably smaller tires too. I'm currently running 29x2.25 nine lines, which are awesome, but I doubt they would fit into the new fork, and I want to slide my sliders all the way forward again to get back my nimble Wolverine.

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    Quote Originally Posted by SpeedyStein View Post
    I think a Wolverine 2.0 would be nice, maybe with shorter stays (read: 29x2.1 tire clearance with 425mm stays), standard dropouts with better placed rack mounts, and a stiffer fork. Boost hub spacing would help modernize this frame by allowing for more wheel compatibility, and stiffen up the available wheels and frame, but that spec would also pigeon hole it into a more off-road dedicated bike. But, isn't that the point of this bike - an off road ready touring-ish bike?
    Really? Boost hubs on a cross bike? Put the Kool-aid down young padawan.

    Why not ask for an unnecessary and no value added PF BB and really ruin a perfectly good frame while your at it.
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    Yeah, having to do, wheels, hubs and tires for thru axle gets a little speedy. You can order Vassago frames direct from them. I've got 6 different frames from them. One of them they built as a complete bike for me. The TKO came ready to ride. I'm in NorCal too so I thought I'd give Soma a shot.

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    Thanks for the pic posting tips!!!

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    Vassago TKO, this thing can run some large tires too.

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    Fisticuff with 32cc tires---those could be bigger too.

    I'm using the Wolverine steel thru axle fork on the Vassago Donnybrook build. Frames have similar geometry so it should work. The frame some DT Swiss solid rear axle. Should have the frame in a week, I'll post pics of the build.

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    Quote Originally Posted by *OneSpeed* View Post
    Really? Boost hubs on a cross bike? Put the Kool-aid down young padawan.

    Why not ask for an unnecessary and no value added PF BB and really ruin a perfectly good frame while your at it.
    Just trying to keep up with wheel standards. I had a tough time finding a qr disc tubeless wheelset appropriate for 40mm+ tires when I built my bike up, but that was also like 2 years ago. Most tubeless disc wheelsets then were for MTB, and therefore thru axle front. The "road" qr disc options that were available then were mostly for actual cross bikes, and mostly tubular, non-tubeless, or not wide enough for tires larger than about 35mm. There were a few exceptions, but those were all ridiculous expensive. Not about to drop $1000+ on a wheelset for this bike.

    I settled on old stock MTB 29er qr wheels - old model XT hubs with i23 rims. A bit over built for anything smaller than a 38mm tire or so, but they best fit the bill.

    I don't really consider the Wolverine a cross bike, either. An off road touring bike, burly drop bar commuter, grocery getter, versatile bike for sure. But cross bike? You could race cross on this bike, but I would prefer something much stiffer with a steeper head tube for cross racing.

    Hence why I also think this bike suits MTB wheels better than road wheels. 15x100 thru axle hubs are going to get rare as the MTB industry moves towards 15x110 boost front axles. Even a lot of XC forks now have 15x110 axles now.

    Plus, with a 15x110 fork, you can still use an adapter/different end caps in most cases to run 15x100 wheels. So, no real reason to not go to a boost front.

    I don't think 12x142 is going to go anywhere though, mostly because boost 148 rear hubs require a different bottom bracket spacing/crankset to get the chain line right.

    So, I'm not saying it's better, per se, just that in future it's going to be easier to get parts for it.

    I could go either way with PF bb. They don't really cause any extra work, don't really require any more maintenance, and allow for a larger bearing set than most other bb types. Larger bearings are always better. But, I think a huge bb shell on a steel bike looks dumb, so for this bike I prefer a standard threaded bb.

  116. #316
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greg878 View Post
    z
    Yeah, having to do, wheels, hubs and tires for thru axle gets a little speedy. You can order Vassago frames direct from them. I've got 6 different frames from them. One of them they built as a complete bike for me. The TKO came ready to ride. I'm in NorCal too so I thought I'd give Soma a shot.
    Great looking bike! I like the red bits on the black paint - nice combo. Looks like there is quite a bit of room in the fork for large tires too. Great build!

  117. #317
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greg878 View Post

    Thanks for the pic posting tips!!!
    Great build!
    What is the measured distance between the fork legs near where the tread would be on the sides? I am trying to determine how big of a tire can fit

  118. #318
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    Quote Originally Posted by SpeedyStein
    I thought pretty hard about the Fisticuff when I ordered the Wolverine, but it was the tire clearance that sold me on the Wolverine. Plus I couldn't find a local shop to order the Fisticuff for me, and SOMA is literally 45 minutes away.
    I had a Fist before selling the frame and fork to buy my Wolvie. Depending on what you want to do with your bike, the Wolvie is WAY more comfortable to ride long distances. It is night and day. Lower BB drop and more relaxed geometry and it just practically rides itself. The Vassago was definitely more twitchy but it was more of a cross frame so it should have been. I can ride 50+ miles of gravel on my Wolvie with less energy spent than when I was riding the Fist. That being said I do miss the Fist and really liked it. I just like my Soma better.

  119. #319
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    Quote Originally Posted by iowamtb View Post
    I had a Fist before selling the frame and fork to buy my Wolvie. Depending on what you want to do with your bike, the Wolvie is WAY more comfortable to ride long distances. It is night and day. Lower BB drop and more relaxed geometry and it just practically rides itself. The Vassago was definitely more twitchy but it was more of a cross frame so it should have been. I can ride 50+ miles of gravel on my Wolvie with less energy spent than when I was riding the Fist. That being said I do miss the Fist and really liked it. I just like my Soma better.
    The Wolverine is the most comfortable rigid bike I've ever had - especially set up like mine - wide bars set kinda high, shortish stem, and a comfy Ritchey saddle. That and huge tires setup tubeless at like 25 psi helps too... but still, I've had my share of steel bikes, and this one is among the most comfortable I've ever had. SOMA seems to have a reputation for bikes that are comfortable, must be that Tange Prestige tubing. I am definitely thinking of a SOMA for my next road bike too, just because of the ride quality of the Wolverine. A Fog Cutter with a carbon fork would fit in well with my stable...

  120. #320
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    Quote Originally Posted by SpeedyStein View Post
    The Wolverine is the most comfortable rigid bike I've ever had - especially set up like mine - wide bars set kinda high, shortish stem, and a comfy Ritchey saddle. That and huge tires setup tubeless at like 25 psi helps too... but still, I've had my share of steel bikes, and this one is among the most comfortable I've ever had. SOMA seems to have a reputation for bikes that are comfortable, must be that Tange Prestige tubing. I am definitely thinking of a SOMA for my next road bike too, just because of the ride quality of the Wolverine. A Fog Cutter with a carbon fork would fit in well with my stable...
    I like that Fog Cutter.

  121. #321
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    Hi rmf17, could you share what front derailleur did you use? High or low clamp? I intend to get this SLX M7025 2x11 Front Mech, but not sure which one to select.
    Si Vis Pacem, Para Bellum

  122. #322
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    I've owned my soma for almost a year now. Close to 3000 miles. I love this bike. Do about 50/50 Street / dirt single track. I've been using 38/ 42 mm tires rear / front. Was thinking about trying 2.1 tires. How much slower on the road could I expect and how much more fun comfort on the dirt? Really like my tire set up, just wondering if 2.1 would be better?

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  123. #323
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    Quote Originally Posted by Psycho1 View Post
    I've owned my soma for almost a year now. Close to 3000 miles. I love this bike. Do about 50/50 Street / dirt single track. I've been using 38/ 42 mm tires rear / front. Was thinking about trying 2.1 tires. How much slower on the road could I expect and how much more fun comfort on the dirt? Really like my tire set up, just wondering if 2.1 would be better?

    Sent from my LG-H901 using Tapatalk
    Better is going to be relative. Better at what? I didn't notice much of a speed change when I went to 2.25" tires, but tire choice is crucial for speed. I was forced to move the dropouts all the way back to fit the tires between the stays, which improved stability significantly, alongside the fact that bigger tires also increased bb height, stand over height. The distance changed between the front axle and the ground slowed steering down considerably. It made my bike a completely different animal. It also floats over pretty much everything, and grip in loose stuff is significantly improved.

    Truthfully, though, I kinda went a little overboard with my tires. I kinda miss the old quick steering. I kinda miss the lively ride, rather than he floaty ride. The huge tires make the flexy stock fork even more noticeably flexy - and enhance its imprecision.

    Big tires are definitely fun, don't get me wrong, but they will entirely change your bike. Whether it's for the better, that's entirely in how you ride it and what your preferences are.

  124. #324
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    I ride this bike everywhere I ride my mountain bike and the street. I like long rides on this bike. With the tires I have now I can go over everything. I wouldn't say the tires are holing me back. More the drop bar than anything. But I like it. It's more challenging than my mountain bike. I just ordered an xt derailleur and 11 42 cassette and the wolftooth tanpan. My inability to climb the really steep stuff is about to be history. I hope. I think I'll wait on the tire experiment for a little while based on your feedback. Thank you.

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  125. #325
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    Quote Originally Posted by Psycho1 View Post
    I ride this bike everywhere I ride my mountain bike and the street. I like long rides on this bike. With the tires I have now I can go over everything. I wouldn't say the tires are holing me back. More the drop bar than anything. But I like it. It's more challenging than my mountain bike. I just ordered an xt derailleur and 11 42 cassette and the wolftooth tanpan. My inability to climb the really steep stuff is about to be history. I hope. I think I'll wait on the tire experiment for a little while based on your feedback. Thank you.

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    I went with a sram x7 and double tap set up. Unless you absolutely hate sram you may look that route. Works well even with my 11x42 cassette. I am running a medium cage with b tension screw maxed out.

  126. #326
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    Really like shimano. But more importantly I already have been using the 105 shifters. So more about cost than anything.. Thank you for the suggestion.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Psycho1 View Post
    Really like shimano. But more importantly I already have been using the 105 shifters. So more about cost than anything.. Thank you for the suggestion.

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    What size chainring are you going to run, and what gearing did you have with 2x before the switch? I'm running a 36t ring with 11-42 on my Wolverine right now, and find it works well for pretty much anywhere I want to take this bike. I have been toying with putting my 46/36 back on though, and probably will if I put on roadish tires.

    I run 105 levers 1x10 on my other cross bike, no big deal. I prefer the feel of the 105 hoods over sram, and like you, I had them on the bike already. I like that I always have the option to hook up a derailleur, and probably will if I do any big event rides with lots of climbing/descending, just for a little more range.

  128. #328
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    I'm leaving the cross 2x on the front. Then I can have road and trail and other than the compact quick shift of the 11/ 36 I think it will be perfect. Plus the clutch derailleur is the big plus. 50/34 on the front

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  129. #329
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    Quote Originally Posted by Psycho1 View Post
    I'm leaving the cross 2x on the front. Then I can have road and trail and other than the compact quick shift of the 11/ 36 I think it will be perfect. Plus the clutch derailleur is the big plus. 50/34 on the front
    I thought about running a 50/34 on mine, but the 50 is a bit big for me and how I use my Wolverine, especially given the tires I'm running. I did a 46/34 for a while on my other cross bike, just used a cross crankset and swapped in a 34t small ring. I like how a few companies are making 46/30 available out of the box now, that seems like a good wide range setup.

  130. #330
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    Last edited by Mohan; 06-14-2017 at 07:53 AM.

  131. #331
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    Here's my latest build


  132. #332
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    Quote Originally Posted by Biggus Duckus View Post
    Here's my latest build


    looks great! an you tell me how many teeth on both those front rings and the cassette? thinking of doing a 2 x 10 or 11 42t at the back, wondering if i should stop at 40t. Running a compact roadcrank, 34/50t double

    cheers
    Steve

  133. #333
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteveJfromtheSwitch View Post
    looks great! an you tell me how many teeth on both those front rings and the cassette? thinking of doing a 2 x 10 or 11 42t at the back, wondering if i should stop at 40t. Running a compact roadcrank, 34/50t double

    cheers
    Steve
    Front is a 46/36 and the cassette is an 11 speed 11-42. The range is great but lower is always better, imo. Eventually I'll probably find a 46/30 crank.

  134. #334
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    just switched to the 11/42 with XT derailleur also. I love it. Still compact enough for the road, but I now have a bail out gear and a clutch derailleur.. 50/34 front

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  135. #335
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    Quote Originally Posted by SpeedyStein View Post
    Better is going to be relative. Better at what? I didn't notice much of a speed change when I went to 2.25" tires, but tire choice is crucial for speed. I was forced to move the dropouts all the way back to fit the tires between the stays, which improved stability significantly, alongside the fact that bigger tires also increased bb height, stand over height. The distance changed between the front axle and the ground slowed steering down considerably. It made my bike a completely different animal. It also floats over pretty much everything, and grip in loose stuff is significantly improved.

    Truthfully, though, I kinda went a little overboard with my tires. I kinda miss the old quick steering. I kinda miss the lively ride, rather than he floaty ride. The huge tires make the flexy stock fork even more noticeably flexy - and enhance its imprecision.

    Big tires are definitely fun, don't get me wrong, but they will entirely change your bike. Whether it's for the better, that's entirely in how you ride it and what your preferences are.
    I going to use this bike for an upcoming bike packing trip. I'm thinking of going 2.0 or so just for the trip. Which tires are you using now? Would you recommend any?

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  136. #336
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    Quote Originally Posted by Psycho1 View Post
    I going to use this bike for an upcoming bike packing trip. I'm thinking of going 2.0 or so just for the trip. Which tires are you using now? Would you recommend any?

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    I'm still rocking the WTB Nine Line 2.25. Good all around tire, not terribly heavy for a tire of this size, rides great, and goes well with the geo of the Wolverine. But, I am probably going to switch back to a tire is the 40ish range, just to get back a little speed and make it a little snappier on the road. I will likely get a different wheelset to do this on, something a little lighter than the i23s I'm rocking now. I would say try to figure out as much about your terrain as you can before buying tires. If the roads are smooth and well maintained, go with something narrowish, but if they are beat up and scarred from drain water and cows like the fire roads around here, go for larger. Of course, if you expect mud get something knobbier. I have always wanted to try the Nano 2.1 on this bike too, and it looks like a really great all around tire and should provide a little more mud clearance than the Nine Lines I have now.

    Good luck and have fun!

  137. #337
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    Quote Originally Posted by Psycho1 View Post
    just switched to the 11/42 with XT derailleur also. I love it. Still compact enough for the road, but I now have a bail out gear and a clutch derailleur.. 50/34 front

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    Great looking bike!

    Is that the Relevate frame bag? Looks like a great fit on the Wolverine. I also really like all your orange details - right down to the cable housings. How was derailleur tuning and cable routing with the tanpan? I can see how it's shape could improve cable routing on a shadow type derailleur on our frame.

  138. #338
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    Quote Originally Posted by SpeedyStein View Post
    I'm still rocking the WTB Nine Line 2.25. Good all around tire, not terribly heavy for a tire of this size, rides great, and goes well with the geo of the Wolverine. But, I am probably going to switch back to a tire is the 40ish range, just to get back a little speed and make it a little snappier on the road. I will likely get a different wheelset to do this on, something a little lighter than the i23s I'm rocking now. I would say try to figure out as much about your terrain as you can before buying tires. If the roads are smooth and well maintained, go with something narrowish, but if they are beat up and scarred from drain water and cows like the fire roads around here, go for larger. Of course, if you expect mud get something knobbier. I have always wanted to try the Nano 2.1 on this bike too, and it looks like a really great all around tire and should provide a little more mud clearance than the Nine Lines I have now.

    Good luck and have fun!
    Thank you. I was looking at the Nanos. I was using the narrower version and ripped two differant ones open. So not sure about their strength. I see that vittoria has come out with a new 2.1 that looks intriguing. The trails should be very similar to what I'm riding it on now. So maybe best to stay with what I am used to for now

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  139. #339
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    Quote Originally Posted by SpeedyStein View Post
    Great looking bike!

    Is that the Relevate frame bag? Looks like a great fit on the Wolverine. I also really like all your orange details - right down to the cable housings. How was derailleur tuning and cable routing with the tanpan? I can see how it's shape could improve cable routing on a shadow type derailleur on our frame.
    Thank you. Yes yes. Revelate tangle. Perfect fit. I had to lower the rear h20 holder though. The derailleur set up perfect. Other than the extra gear I would not notice a difference. Very smooth.

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  140. #340
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    Quote Originally Posted by Psycho1 View Post


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    Oh sweet, that looks like your cable is nearly a straight shot from the stop to the tanpan. Very cool, nice and tidy.

  142. #342
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    Quote Originally Posted by Psycho1 View Post
    just switched to the 11/42 with XT derailleur also. I love it. Still compact enough for the road, but I now have a bail out gear and a clutch derailleur.. 50/34 front

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    Hi Psycho1,
    can you share the exact derailleur that you used? I'm not sure which derailleur to buy, top or bottom swing, high or low clamp.
    TIA
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  143. #343
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    Quote Originally Posted by WarPigs View Post
    Hi Psycho1,
    can you share the exact derailleur that you used? I'm not sure which derailleur to buy, top or bottom swing, high or low clamp.
    TIA
    That looks like a standard Ultegra 6800 or 105 5800 FD to me - should be bottom pull, 28.6 clamp for the Wolverine. Biggest thing is make sure the FD pull matches the shifters - newer 11 speed FDs use a different pull ratio than 10 speed and older. That's for Shimano road shifters, BTW, SRAM and Campy are different, and MTB stuff is different too. Bar end and most other friction shifters are usually pretty flexible with FDs, since they don't rely on indexing to work. Let us know your proposed setup, and we should be able to help you figure it out.

  144. #344
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    Shimano 105. Pretty standard. It comes with a spacer for different size seat post. It's actually capable of 2 or 3 ring.

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  145. #345
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    Quote Originally Posted by Psycho1 View Post
    Shimano 105. Pretty standard. It comes with a spacer for different size seat post. It's actually capable of 2 or 3 ring.

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    Thanks
    Si Vis Pacem, Para Bellum

  146. #346
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    Quote Originally Posted by SpeedyStein View Post
    That looks like a standard Ultegra 6800 or 105 5800 FD to me - should be bottom pull, 28.6 clamp for the Wolverine. Biggest thing is make sure the FD pull matches the shifters - newer 11 speed FDs use a different pull ratio than 10 speed and older. That's for Shimano road shifters, BTW, SRAM and Campy are different, and MTB stuff is different too. Bar end and most other friction shifters are usually pretty flexible with FDs, since they don't rely on indexing to work. Let us know your proposed setup, and we should be able to help you figure it out.
    Thanks SpeedyStein.

    I intend to make it a 650B offroad touring and hitting the local trails plus as a commuter. I started riding MTB on rigid forks. My current MTB is a Transition TransAM 29er. My touring buddies are on fatbikes n 29+ touring rigs, so when they go off-road, pretty sketchy on my old Olmo steel roadbike on 28mm tires.

    I'm looking at SLX 2x11. I want to use off-road drop bars like the cowchipper, or maybe Crust's Leatherbar, which will restrict me to Gevenalle GX or bar-ends, but I'm leaning more towards Gevenalle, but it's going to be a hefty investment. Or I delay that and just use alt bars like Mary or Jones H-bar, as the groupset from the SLX already includes the shifters.

    I've fitted with Shimano STIs on my Olmo, but I don't like the shifting as it hits the wald basket and/or front bag that I attach to my handlebar. I normally ride on the hoods.

    Soma Wolverine Builds-olmo.jpg
    This is my current setup on my Olmo, pretty maxed out on what I can load and 28mm is the widest tires I can fit.
    Si Vis Pacem, Para Bellum

  147. #347
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    I'm running the woodchippers. Not as much of a drop and I don't think the 105 levers are quite as long as what you have there. Might be worth looking at other bikes that have them. I think your basket would clear mine. I just put my blackburn handle bar bag with my tent in it and it has enough clearance to shift. Just an FYI

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  148. #348
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    Quote Originally Posted by WarPigs View Post
    Thanks SpeedyStein.

    I intend to make it a 650B offroad touring and hitting the local trails plus as a commuter. I started riding MTB on rigid forks. My current MTB is a Transition TransAM 29er. My touring buddies are on fatbikes n 29+ touring rigs, so when they go off-road, pretty sketchy on my old Olmo steel roadbike on 28mm tires.

    I'm looking at SLX 2x11. I want to use off-road drop bars like the cowchipper, or maybe Crust's Leatherbar, which will restrict me to Gevenalle GX or bar-ends, but I'm leaning more towards Gevenalle, but it's going to be a hefty investment. Or I delay that and just use alt bars like Mary or Jones H-bar, as the groupset from the SLX already includes the shifters.

    I've fitted with Shimano STIs on my Olmo, but I don't like the shifting as it hits the wald basket and/or front bag that I attach to my handlebar. I normally ride on the hoods.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    This is my current setup on my Olmo, pretty maxed out on what I can load and 28mm is the widest tires I can fit.
    I totally understand your desire for wider tires!

    I think the Gevenalle stuff is pretty cool, and very nearly went for the hydraulic 1x11 dynasys setup they offer, but went with bar end shifters instead. I'm still kinda thinking about their setup though, because non-hydraulic brakes just aren't doing it for me (still). With the SLX FD, you are pretty much stuck with a friction front shifter or a flat bar MTB shifter, so you are on the right track with bar ends or Gevenalle. If you wanted to use STI type shifters, you would need to use a road FD, like the one you asked about above.

    For what it's worth, I really like the Microshift 11spd dynasys bar end shifter. Good lever feel, easy installation, and nice positive indexed clicks. And it's switchable to friction without even taking it apart, just with a little switch, in case of catastrophe. Very simple setup and mated with the XT RD with zero complications. Pretty sure it's the same lever Gevenalle uses - or at least the same internals anyway.

    I had a Wald 137 basket on the Wolverine for a little while with 105 shifters, and had no clearance problems, but I also mounted the basket super low on a Blackburn front rack. I also have pretty wide bars on my bike too.

    Speaking of bars, I really like the Ritchey EvoMax bar. Offroadish with a slight flare, but still familiar as a road bar.

    I rocked the Wolverine with flat bars for a little while, and it was kinda fun, but definitely not as much fun as with drops for me. Maybe something like a Jones bar would have been better, but I wasn't feeling it. Not to mention the qr fork is pretty flexy, and having stiffer bars and much more powerful hydraulic MTB brakes didn't help it any. I always felt like the contact patch with the ground was just going wherever it wanted, and I couldn't get it to not squeal under hard braking. Maybe with a super stiff carbon fork it would work.

    Good luck with your build!

  149. #349
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    Are the 11s Microshift barends able to be used as downtube shifters? I couldn't seem to find that info on their website. I've already ordered some dia-compe 11s dt shifters, but just wanted to know my options. Thanks!

  150. #350
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    Quote Originally Posted by kid_dynamite View Post
    Are the 11s Microshift barends able to be used as downtube shifters? I couldn't seem to find that info on their website. I've already ordered some dia-compe 11s dt shifters, but just wanted to know my options. Thanks!
    I'm not sure - I haven't tried it yet. They look like they should be, since the pod that the shifter mounts to has pretty much the same shape as the braze on downtube mounts. I will give it a closer look and see if they mate up tonight.

  151. #351
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    Joined the club this week! Was planning a 650b build from frame/fork when one popped up for sale locally.
    Just got back from a shakedown road ride, feels great so far but really looking forward to throwing in some singletrack this weekend! Probably going to convert to 1x10 for summer and singlespeed for winter, should be a nice step up from my drop bar Redline 29er!

    Soma Wolverine Builds-img_6184.jpg
    Last edited by michel77; 06-30-2017 at 10:02 AM.

  152. #352
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    Quote Originally Posted by michel77 View Post
    Joined the club this week! Was planning a 650b build from frame/fork when one popped up for sale locally.
    Just got back from a shakedown road ride, feels great so far but really looking forward to throwing in some singletrack this weekend! Probably going to convert to 1x10 for summer and singlespeed for winter, should be a nice step up from my drop bar Redline 29er!

    Looks good - I dig the green bar tape!

  153. #353
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    Hi SpeedyStein,
    just saw this new handlebar
    https://ritcheylogic.com/venturemax-handlebar

    I think its still new, so no reviews yet. Soma Condor a bit too ex.

    Price wise reasonable here

    https://www.bike-components.de/en/Ri...l-2017-p53315/
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  154. #354
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    First singletrack ride done. Love it so far, takes a little getting used to since it's much more agile than my Redline, possibly helped along by the 650b setup.
    As expected, not a fan of the Cowbells offroad at all so ordered a set of Soma Junebugs to see how I like those and to compare to the On One Midge bars..

    Soma Wolverine Builds-img_6193.jpg

  155. #355
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    Quote Originally Posted by WarPigs View Post
    Hi SpeedyStein,
    just saw this new handlebar
    https://ritcheylogic.com/venturemax-handlebar

    I think its still new, so no reviews yet. Soma Condor a bit too ex.

    Price wise reasonable here

    https://www.bike-components.de/en/Ri...l-2017-p53315/
    Those look interesting, definitely have some flare in the drops. They actually look a fair bit like the c2009 WTB Dirt Drops, but maybe a little shorter and shallower, and not quite as flared. I think the WTB had a 30d flare.

    With Ritchey, they have the WCS and Comp levels, you have the WCS in the first link, and the Comp on the second - not a whole lot of difference, at least for their bars. A different alloy that nets an average of 30grams or so between the levels for most of their road bars. Not really worth the price difference, IMO.

    Let us know if you try them, would love to hear some real world impressions.

  156. #356
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    Quote Originally Posted by michel77 View Post
    First singletrack ride done. Love it so far, takes a little getting used to since it's much more agile than my Redline, possibly helped along by the 650b setup.
    As expected, not a fan of the Cowbells offroad at all so ordered a set of Soma Junebugs to see how I like those and to compare to the On One Midge bars..

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I haven't tried a 650b build on this bike yet, but I can imagine it absolutely shreds with a smaller diameter tire. I know mine was a blast on single track with 35mm Cross Boss tires and the sliders all the way forward, and running a 27.5 x2.1 tire probably amplifies that considerably. I'm really wanting to build up a second wheelset!

    Let us know what you think of the Soma Junebugs - I was eyeing those over pretty hard a while ago. Out of curiosity, what did you not like about the cowbell?

  157. #357
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    Quote Originally Posted by kid_dynamite View Post
    Are the 11s Microshift barends able to be used as downtube shifters? I couldn't seem to find that info on their website. I've already ordered some dia-compe 11s dt shifters, but just wanted to know my options. Thanks!
    Finally got around to trying the micro shift shifters mounted to the dt bosses - they fit well. Makes for a nice option for a temporary switch to double crankset vice the single ring I've been using.


  158. #358
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    Quote Originally Posted by SpeedyStein View Post
    Those look interesting, definitely have some flare in the drops. They actually look a fair bit like the c2009 WTB Dirt Drops, but maybe a little shorter and shallower, and not quite as flared. I think the WTB had a 30d flare.

    With Ritchey, they have the WCS and Comp levels, you have the WCS in the first link, and the Comp on the second - not a whole lot of difference, at least for their bars. A different alloy that nets an average of 30grams or so between the levels for most of their road bars. Not really worth the price difference, IMO.

    Let us know if you try them, would love to hear some real world impressions.
    opps, didn't realise there was two levels, but I would have ordered the Comp level any. hahaha I'm waiting for it to arrive from Germany.
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  159. #359
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    Quote Originally Posted by SpeedyStein View Post
    Let us know what you think of the Soma Junebugs - I was eyeing those over pretty hard a while ago. Out of curiosity, what did you not like about the cowbell?
    I'll keep you posted. I felt the cowbells had too deep and narrow of a drop. I'm also not used to these more conventional drops offroad, I ran On-One Midge bars on my previous "cross" bike (converted 29er really). I like more flare and shallower drops for singletrack.

  160. #360
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    Been considering building up a Wolverine for myself as of late, with concerns about the stays breaking, I sent an email to Soma and got the following response. Needless to say, I'm waiting till Sept to order my frame.

    "We are just about sold out of Wolverines. The next batch is due, optimistically, late August, but probably not until early September. These Wolverines will be the Wolverine 1.2; having a reinforcement bridge between the seat and chain stays as well as reinforced chain stays. The rare incidences of dropout problems will be eliminated with the 1.2. Hope you can wait for them!

    -Soma Fabrications"


    Just thought anyone who's had concerns like myself, might like to know Soma is addressing the issue.
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  161. #361
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    Quote Originally Posted by Guy.Ford View Post
    Been considering building up a Wolverine for myself as of late, with concerns about the stays breaking, I sent an email to Soma and got the following response. Needless to say, I'm waiting till Sept to order my frame.

    "We are just about sold out of Wolverines. The next batch is due, optimistically, late August, but probably not until early September. These Wolverines will be the Wolverine 1.2; having a reinforcement bridge between the seat and chain stays as well as reinforced chain stays. The rare incidences of dropout problems will be eliminated with the 1.2. Hope you can wait for them!

    -Soma Fabrications"


    Just thought anyone who's had concerns like myself, might like to know Soma is addressing the issue.
    excellent info, thanks!!
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  162. #362
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    Quote Originally Posted by Guy.Ford View Post
    Been considering building up a Wolverine for myself as of late, with concerns about the stays breaking, I sent an email to Soma and got the following response. Needless to say, I'm waiting till Sept to order my frame.

    "We are just about sold out of Wolverines. The next batch is due, optimistically, late August, but probably not until early September. These Wolverines will be the Wolverine 1.2; having a reinforcement bridge between the seat and chain stays as well as reinforced chain stays. The rare incidences of dropout problems will be eliminated with the 1.2. Hope you can wait for them!

    -Soma Fabrications"


    Just thought anyone who's had concerns like myself, might like to know Soma is addressing the issue.

    Interesting so does this mean the rest of us should be concerned since apparently soma odd addressing a known issue?

  163. #363
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    Quote Originally Posted by iowamtb View Post
    Interesting so does this mean the rest of us should be concerned since apparently soma odd addressing a known issue?
    I doubt it, doesn't seem to be a rampant issue. However, adding a brace is a simple/cheap insurance policy against potential breakage. All mfgs see broken frames carbon, aluminum, steel it's just part of the deal and luck of the draw.

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  164. #364
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    Quote Originally Posted by Guy.Ford View Post
    I doubt it, doesn't seem to be a rampant issue. However, adding a brace is a simple/cheap insurance policy against potential breakage. All mfgs see broken frames carbon, aluminum, steel it's just part of the deal and luck of the draw.

    Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk

    Understandable and reassuring.....

  165. #365
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    Hi dudes and dudettes,

    I plan to start building up a Wolverine soon. Couple of noob questions about compatible drivetrain/crankset setups. Wanna have a wide range of gears on the bike, for loaded steep hill climbing, so definitely not 1x11 nor double or even compact. Would a Sugino compact plus crankset (ie. 44-30) work with a 10/11 speed Shimano road (or do I need mtb?) rear cassette and road STI shifters? Bar-end shifters would also be fine.

    Many thanks,

    Loobs.

  166. #366
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    Quote Originally Posted by Loobs View Post
    Hi dudes and dudettes,

    I plan to start building up a Wolverine soon. Couple of noob questions about compatible drivetrain/crankset setups. Wanna have a wide range of gears on the bike, for loaded steep hill climbing, so definitely not 1x11 nor double or even compact. Would a Sugino compact plus crankset (ie. 44-30) work with a 10/11 speed Shimano road (or do I need mtb?) rear cassette and road STI shifters? Bar-end shifters would also be fine.

    Many thanks,

    Loobs.
    I have a Wolverine and have had a few different iterations for gearing. I personally like either bar end shifters or Gevenalle shifters. This allows the use of a MTB cassette (11-42) without any sort of hack or adapter. As for the front, a 44-30 or 46-30 would be great. My setup has always been a 46-36 but I don't do gnarly technical climbs or anything.

    BTW the new Wolverine frame is debuting shortly (maybe a week) and has added some strength to the dropout area, if you haven't bought a frame yet.

  167. #367
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    Hello, mtbr noober here. Joined to share my experience... My (58) seat stay split version is in the process of being warrantied. I'd stripped it for a 2nd more thorough injection of framesaver and heli-taping only to find (fortunately before the heli-taping but sadly after wasting some framesaver) a crack emanating from opposite sides of the drive side chainstay vent hole. I'm not a heavy rider (80kg suited and booted) and I hadn't given this frame any hammer, but it looks like this one would've finished up just like another forum member's posted earlier on with a totally snaped DS c'stay. Glad I avoided that fate.

    Point of sale (also Distributor) here in the UK very quick to fwd my photos onto Soma US and get a warranty approval. I'm just about to hacksaw it up :-( to enable the warranty to further proceed! I hope that the replacement is one of these with the improvements in this area.

  168. #368
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    Quote Originally Posted by Biggus Duckus View Post
    I have a Wolverine and have had a few different iterations for gearing. I personally like either bar end shifters or Gevenalle shifters. This allows the use of a MTB cassette (11-42) without any sort of hack or adapter. As for the front, a 44-30 or 46-30 would be great. My setup has always been a 46-36 but I don't do gnarly technical climbs or anything.

    BTW the new Wolverine frame is debuting shortly (maybe a week) and has added some strength to the dropout area, if you haven't bought a frame yet.
    Thanks for coming back to me.

    Does anyone make a 44-30 crankset that doesn't cost 400 dollars?

  169. #369
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    Quote Originally Posted by Loobs View Post
    Thanks for coming back to me.

    Does anyone make a 44-30 crankset that doesn't cost 400 dollars?
    That shouldn't be a problem; as long as you don't mind cobbling one together from parts. Hardest thing to find is 30t c'ring; had a quick look on CRC and found these 3 30t options, after that you'd need to decide on cranks and bottom bracket and easiest of all should be o source a 44t chainring, although I imagine MTB types will be more accommodating.

    Shimano Tiagra FC4603 10sp Triple Chainrings | Chain Reaction Cycles

    Shimano XT FCM782 10 Speed Triple Chainring | Chain Reaction Cycles

    Shimano 105 FC5703 10 Speed Triple Chanrings | Chain Reaction Cycles

    Hope this helps with some inspiration, unless you want it all to be nicely matched.

  170. #370
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    Cheers!

  171. #371
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    Maybe it'd just be easier to get a Deore Triple set up with a 10-speed rear and run it with bar end shifters so. This is what's on my other touring bike and I like it.

  172. #372
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    I'm relocating for 3 months of training, so I needed to put a bike into commuter mode earlier than expected. Put smaller tires on (WTB Byways tubeless) and added fenders. I feel like it's ready for commuting, gravel, and on/off road touring now. Might just keep it this way...



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  173. #373
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    Quote Originally Posted by Loobs View Post
    Thanks for coming back to me.

    Does anyone make a 44-30 crankset that doesn't cost 400 dollars?
    You could start with a tiagra/105/ultegra 10spd triple crankset, remove big and middle rings, and get a 46t ring to put in middle spot to get a 46/30 double. Leave the big ring spot empty or put a bash on, your choice. All those parts are easy to find, and shopping online, you could probably build this setup for around $150 with bb.

  174. #374
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    Velo Orange used to make a 46/30 with bashgard called the Polyvalent Crankset. It was just over $100. You could have some luck finding one of those. I will probably post one on EBay sometime this week.

  175. #375
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    *NEW* Soma Wolverine v2.1 frame

    Here is a pic of the newly updated Wolverine v2.1 recently added to the Soma Wolverine site/page

    Soma Wolverine Builds-soma_wolverine_2pt1_orng_web1.jpg
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  176. #376
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    Think it will be harder to adjust the tensioning screw on the sliding dropouts?
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  177. #377
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    I'm flip-flopping my stance on this bike.

    I still absolutely love the ride, tire clearance, geometry, and adjustable drop outs.

    But the way Soma has handled this crack issue is alarming. The addition of straps instead of tubing, shows a lack of understanding for bicycle construction. When I talk to Soma about these things, I can't get straight answers, and they have been intentionally ignoring parts of questions, so as to not get caught being clueless.

    These Straps just... can not do what Soma pretends they do.

    Add to that the warranty worthy issues my bike already has, flaking clear coat, out of spec seat tube. misaligned drop outs... And it just sucks the fun out of my favorite bike.

    I'll be taking it to a frame builder to have the chainstays and drop outs replaced. have it refinished, and just enjoy my bike. But I'm done dealing with Soma.

    For the time being I'm back on a Straggler frame I got for cheap, but I miss my Wolverine.

  178. #378
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    as someone who is about to pull the trigger on a Woverine, is this something i should be concerned with?? particularly as i'm buying from the USA and i'm in Australia, warranty returns etc could be a problem for me.

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    Why not just get from a local shop? Iím in Sydney and have ordered mine through Omafiets

  180. #380
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    I heard wind of the v2.1 a month or two ago and have lusted after a Wolverine for a couple years now but was nervous of the reported dropout issue & previous monster cross builds just didnít hit the spot.. it seems the every busted one you see has the dropouts slammed all the way back 🤷🏻*♂️

    Frame/thru axle fork should arrive in a couple weeks!!!

    Iíve almost got all the parts for my build which will consist of:
    - 52cm Black frame & thru axle fork
    - Chris King black/silver headset
    - SRAM Rival 1 group w/10-42 cassette
    - Thomson dirt drops, stem, seatpost & clamp
    - Brooks weatherproof c15 carved saddle
    - Mason/Hunt 650 wheelset
    - WTB Byway tires
    - Outershell bar, stem and saddle bags

    Looking forward to posting some pics when itís all together!!!

    One question, am I going to be able to run 180/160 rotors on it?

  181. #381
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    Quote Originally Posted by Agwan View Post
    I'm flip-flopping my stance on this bike.

    I still absolutely love the ride, tire clearance, geometry, and adjustable drop outs.

    But the way Soma has handled this crack issue is alarming. The addition of straps instead of tubing, shows a lack of understanding for bicycle construction. When I talk to Soma about these things, I can't get straight answers, and they have been intentionally ignoring parts of questions, so as to not get caught being clueless.

    These Straps just... can not do what Soma pretends they do.

    Add to that the warranty worthy issues my bike already has, flaking clear coat, out of spec seat tube. misaligned drop outs... And it just sucks the fun out of my favorite bike.

    I'll be taking it to a frame builder to have the chainstays and drop outs replaced. have it refinished, and just enjoy my bike. But I'm done dealing with Soma.

    For the time being I'm back on a Straggler frame I got for cheap, but I miss my Wolverine.
    Thank you for your feedback. This is the kind of honest assessment I love reading. Sorry you didn't have a good experience, but I'm super interested to hear how your frame modification turns out.

    Also, (if you don't mind) I'm curious what it will cost to have the rear triangle replaced vs just having a custom frame made copying the Wolverine geo.

    I'm a little sad to admit I've not had a good experience with Soma's communication either. I really like some of their products but some of these issues make me hesitant.

    I really like/want the Wolverine, but I'm reluctant because I agree with your opinion that the braces are not the best fix for the cracking problem. And yes to the person that asked, those braces can get in the way of adjusting the dropouts on some frames, kind of a pain.

    Anyway, hope your frame mods go well and you post up the results.
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  182. #382
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    Quote Originally Posted by bkinsman View Post
    Why not just get from a local shop? Iím in Sydney and have ordered mine through Omafiets
    Long story short, i've been dealing with a USA bike shop for years now, getting me Surly's in a time in Australia due to distributor changes, it was hard to get them. It was natural to keep going through them. If it breaks, i just need to send the frame back to them. I figure the money i save buying from them still covers a few lots of freight in the event of a problem.

  183. #383
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteveJfromtheSwitch View Post
    Long story short, i've been dealing with a USA bike shop for years now, getting me Surly's in a time in Australia due to distributor changes, it was hard to get them. It was natural to keep going through them. If it breaks, i just need to send the frame back to them. I figure the money i save buying from them still covers a few lots of freight in the event of a problem.
    Ah righto, fair enough then.
    rock on!

  184. #384
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    I'm still considering a Wolverine. I am 5'9 and ride a 54 on most frames. It appears that the 52 size mirrors the 54 size Litespeed gravel bike I have just tested and am writing a review for currently. Anyone else here ride the 52 or 54 size and close to my height?
    Thanks in advance.
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  185. #385
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    I'm 5'9 and I have a 52. Long torso short legs. I ride a 54 or 56 in a lot of other frames. If going with drops I'd do the 50 or 52. flats 54 or 56.

  186. #386
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    Quote Originally Posted by Agwan View Post
    I'm 5'9 and I have a 52. Long torso short legs. I ride a 54 or 56 in a lot of other frames. If going with drops I'd do the 50 or 52. flats 54 or 56.
    Thank you!
    That confirms it.
    My pant leg inseam is 30 in, so I have shorter legs, longer torso as well.
    What stem length and spacers stack are you using? Have you played with those lengths/heights much?

    Thanks again Agwan.
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  187. #387
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    Oh, I've played with it a ton.

    First set of Drop bars was super wide 48cm drop bar that I custom ordered. I paired that with a 60, 80 and 100 mm stem. It was stable, but so stable that it felt kind of bland.

    Then Iwent back to some hacked 560mm flats on a 100mm Stem, and given that I've ridden those numbers more than anything else, they were great.

    Then just for the heck of it I went over to some 29er mustache bars that came in around 660. The Soma Odin bar is comparable to those. That was really fantastic, and matched with an ergo grip, has been amazing.

    Then I went with some 44cm flat topped aero drops, because at this point I had lost a lot of weight and it had gotten easier to breath with narrower bars, I ran those bars at both 90 and 100 mm stems. Liked them with the 90 just a bit more. as far as bar drop from saddle I kept it pretty tame. I did try a 4 cm drop for a time, and it wasn't terrible. but I found that I like to keep my bars within about 2 cm of saddle height, usually 2 cm lower.

    After that my wife was really in love with my Drivetrain, so I gifted it over to her bike (Soma Double Cross, same size.). So she'd stop riding mine. She rides it at 3 cm saddle to bar drop.

    For some stats, I'm 5,9 and 3/4's. She's about 5, 10 and 1/2. My cycling inseam is 31.5ish hers is about 35. We ride the same size frames but with very different fits. She's flexible and thin, I'm heavy with chronic pain from injuries.

    My most common spacer stack is 4 cm. and I usually run a 7 degree stem pointed down.

  188. #388
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greg878 View Post
    Just finished a magnificent matte black Wolverine build, done 100 or so miles on it and it's pretty darn good!!!
    Your subtitle "2017 Soma Wolverine build 56cm. SRAM 1x11 and fat tires!!" stood out as I sort through all these pages.

    There's a not very used 56 for sale locally but it seemed big for my 5'10" mostly riding a MTB lately. I'm sure the guy's stem and bars are part of it. I want or wanted 1x and he's got a 2 ring 105 setup and wheels not tubeless ready.

    I think what's got me messed on the size is the way a brief ride on a 55 cm Vaya felt so good compared to his very much old school narrow drops and touring setup.

    Quote Originally Posted by Agwan View Post
    I'm 5'9 and I have a 52. Long torso short legs. I ride a 54 or 56 in a lot of other frames. If going with drops I'd do the 50 or 52. flats 54 or 56.
    That scares me re buying the used 56 because I'm 5'10" but admittedly more of me in leg than torso. I have some 25-30 years old little used WTB drop bars that I thought I'd use if I buy it but I forgot what diameter they are.

    Basically 56 is in the middle of their range and where I am with most bikes but I fear it's too long. Sizing input would really be appreciated.
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  189. #389
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    New Matt Black Build

    So i built my frame up last weekend. it's a 52cm, i'm 173cm but with a 31" inseam and it fits nicely.

    Soma Wolverine Builds-img_5736.jpgSoma Wolverine Builds-img_5737.jpgSoma Wolverine Builds-img_5738.jpg

  190. #390
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteveJfromtheSwitch View Post
    So i built my frame up last weekend. it's a 52cm, i'm 173cm but with a 31" inseam and it fits nicely.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Either your 31" inseam is your pants, and not your cycling inseam, or your pelvis has to rock back and forth way too much. Because my cycling inseam is 31.5 and my 52 has WAY less exposed seatpost. And I work in a bike shop and had my fit done. And I just had my fit updated, and my post still isn't that high.

    I lost a bunch of weight, so my flexibility changed.

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  191. #391
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    i think the photo is deceptive, it's only a small drop from bars to seat when you look at it side on

  192. #392
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    I'm not talking bar drop. Seatpost extension. Your seat looks way too high for a 31 inch leg.

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  193. #393
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    i don't know what to tell you mate, it fits. i don't work in any bike shop but this ain't my first rodeo either

  194. #394
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    It may fit. If it does your numbers are wrong. That seatpost extension is a hair higher than my wife. Who has almost exactly a 35 inch inseam. She actually enjoys about the same saddle to bar drop as well. She's also had a fitting done. She still rides a 52" (She's the same height as me, just much longer legs and more flexible.)

    I don't care how many rodeo's you've been to. I work at the rodeo, 5 days a week. For nearly three years now.

    Being able to reach the pedals, doesn't mean it fits. You may have an ideal saddle height, and if you do. It just means your cycling inseam isn't 31".

    Or your saddle may be too high, and your pelvis is rocking side to side when you pedal, and you're putting more strain on tendons than you need to. As well as putting extra stress on your man bits.

  195. #395
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    ok boss, you win,

  196. #396
    A God Without A Name
    Reputation: Agwan's Avatar
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    Not trying to win. More interested in whether or not you're doing something that can sterilize you.

    Basically, I want you and your wife to KEEP winning.

    If your pants inseam is 31, then it all makes sense. My pants inseam is like... 26.5? I dunno. I'm an expert in fixing bikes, not making high performance pants.

  197. #397
    Wanna ride bikes?
    Reputation: *OneSpeed*'s Avatar
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    High performance pants Rock!!
    Rigid SS 29er
    SS 29+
    Fat Lefty
    SS cyclocross
    Full Sus 29er (Yuck)

    Stop asking how much it weighs and just go ride it.

  198. #398
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteveJfromtheSwitch View Post
    So i built my frame up last weekend. it's a 52cm, i'm 173cm but with a 31" inseam and it fits nicely.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Nice build! I like the orange bits - nice touch. I can also dig the tan walls, always look good on steel bikes to me.

  199. #399
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    Quote Originally Posted by bitflogger View Post
    Your subtitle "2017 Soma Wolverine build 56cm. SRAM 1x11 and fat tires!!" stood out as I sort through all these pages.

    There's a not very used 56 for sale locally but it seemed big for my 5'10" mostly riding a MTB lately. I'm sure the guy's stem and bars are part of it. I want or wanted 1x and he's got a 2 ring 105 setup and wheels not tubeless ready.

    I think what's got me messed on the size is the way a brief ride on a 55 cm Vaya felt so good compared to his very much old school narrow drops and touring setup.



    That scares me re buying the used 56 because I'm 5'10" but admittedly more of me in leg than torso. I have some 25-30 years old little used WTB drop bars that I thought I'd use if I buy it but I forgot what diameter they are.

    Basically 56 is in the middle of their range and where I am with most bikes but I fear it's too long. Sizing input would really be appreciated.
    Depending on the day of the week, I'm a smidge short of 5'11" and I ride a 54cm Wolverine. I'm also pretty flexible, and with ~32mm of spacers under my stem, I still have about a 3" bar to saddle drop. Keep in mind with this bike that the headtube is pretty short and the top tube is pretty long for a given size. The size is in a kind of limbo for me, I have a 70mm stem now, and it is right at the long limit for me with modest reach drop bars, but with a 100mm stem it felt way too short for a flat bar bike.

    Don't let me discourage you from a Wolverine though, you won't find better steel for less, and you probably won't find better "monstercross" features for less. It is a good value for sure, and the ride quality is among the best rigid bikes I've ridden. With cross-ish size tires (35-40mm) and the sliders all the way forward, this thing absolutely shreds smooth single track, and with big floaty tires (29x2.2) and the sliders all the way back, it is very well mannered for commutes or neighborhood duty.
    I carry my daughter in a kid seat on the back and it is very stable in its current setup with big tires. All in all, great bike to play Jekyll and Hyde with, especially once you get the fit and kit dialed to your liking.

    As I've mentioned before, I would love to try the thru axle fork available for this bike, the standard fork is super flexy. Good for comfort, but leaves me wanting just a little more stiffness for more aggressive rides.

    Good luck, hopefully you find one you are happy with!

  200. #400
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    So I fitted a Rawland Raidoverks Rando Rack on the front on my Wolverine today - I can dig it! It's a very sturdy small rack that should hold a basket, small bag, or 6 pack pretty easily.
    Soma Wolverine Builds-20171020_104104.jpg
    Soma Wolverine Builds-20171020_104032.jpg
    Last edited by SpeedyStein; 10-22-2017 at 12:08 AM.

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