No Matter what i do, it rubs- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    No Matter what i do, it rubs

    Have this problem with my Evo, chain rubs on front derailleur, no adjustment can correct this. Brought to bike mechanic and told me i only have to choose on which side it will prefer the chain to rub (left or right insides of derailleur / biggest or smallest cog) as he cant do anything about it. Im using XT e-type by the way.

  2. #2
    I'm living the dream!
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    What kind of cranks are you using? Assuming they have external BB cups, are you running any spacers on the drive side?

  3. #3
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    "No Matter what i do, it rubs"

    That's what she said! (sorry, couldn't resist)

  4. #4
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    My xcl does the same thing. I just stay out off the gears where it rubs because it puts to much stress on the chain anyways.

  5. #5
    BrassBalled DropbarNinja
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    are you cross chaining?

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ricky D
    What kind of cranks are you using? Assuming they have external BB cups, are you running any spacers on the drive side?
    Im using Shimano SLX doubles paired with XT e-type derailleur designed for tripple rings with limit screw adjusted. Yes, i use spacer, one on each side, and im not crossing chains. As of now i preferred to set it rubbing while on my smallest and the next to the smallest cogs. Is my derailleur too narrow?

  7. #7
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    I run a truvativ 2.2 GXP AM crankset, no spacers, same type of derailer with no issues. I think alot of it is in the BB cup spacing

  8. #8
    it's....
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    Quote Originally Posted by roel
    Im using Shimano SLX doubles paired with XT e-type derailleur designed for tripple rings with limit screw adjusted. Yes, i use spacer, one on each side, and im not crossing chains. As of now i preferred to set it rubbing while on my smallest and the next to the smallest cogs. Is my derailleur too narrow?
    You shouldn't be using any spacers on either side.

  9. #9
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    He said rubs......he he, no really though....Usually we do not run any spacers and have no rub.

  10. #10
    yarrrp
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    I am fighting the same thing. Also it seems like I am mounting the derailer wrong or something because I had to use a bunch of washers behind the rear (towards the back of the bike) screw on the derailer. It seems like a lot of trouble and still works poorly. Anyone got a good step by step setup guide for this. (seems like chumba should set up more how to's on their site as they have a lot of finicky issues)

  11. #11
    Spin-stabilized
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    Quote Originally Posted by eyescream
    "No Matter what i do, it rubs"

    That's what she said! (sorry, couldn't resist)
    Damn, beat me to it by... like a day. Love that show!
    Hey man, wanna go for a klunk?

  12. #12
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    Here is the breakdown of the spacer thing. Yeah, I know many of you know this already. Feel free to skip it if so.

    The spacers are 2.5mm wide. The e-type plate is 2.5mm wide. The width of the bb is native for a 73mm + an e-type plate. If you install it on a 68mm bb shell, install one of the 2.5mm spacers on each side of the bb shell, that adds 5mm making it 73mm. If you dont have an e-type derailleur, install a spacer on the drive side, that takes the place of the e-type mount. Very clever and simple.

    Older Evos were 73mm and used an e-type, so you didnt need any spacers. The new ones are 73mm and direct mount: an e-type but dont install the plate. I dont have a new Evo anymore. But measure the BB shell width. If it is 73mm, you need a spacer on the drive side and no spacer on non-drive side.
    Disclaimer: ComCycle USA

  13. #13
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    Well put Dirtdad.

  14. #14
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    Clever indeed. Did you measure the actual BB shell width? Sometimes facing the BB can narrow it down just a wee bit too much and that may complicate drivetrain setup. Don't ask me how I found out I assume that the frame is still true/in proper alignment. Frame "flex" due to sloppy pivots and even some slop in the deraileur pivots can contribute to some rub. Is the cassette nice and snug against the freehub? I've had wheels where the cassette had as much as 2mm of lateral play, had to stick a spacer in to fix it.
    Hey man, wanna go for a klunk?

  15. #15
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    mine does the same thing. Hope to fix it soon...

  16. #16
    yarrrp
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    Quote Originally Posted by hairygut
    I am fighting the same thing. Also it seems like I am mounting the derailer wrong or something because I had to use a bunch of washers behind the rear (towards the back of the bike) screw on the derailer. It seems like a lot of trouble and still works poorly. Anyone got a good step by step setup guide for this. (seems like chumba should set up more how to's on their site as they have a lot of finicky issues)
    any wisdom on the actual mounting process of the derailer to the bike? I took it of the plate and its all downhill from there.
    p.s. my bb has the spacer on the drive side and all

  17. #17
    Compulsive Bike Builder
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    Is it a newer or older Evo? Does it have 2 holes for a direct mount derailleur, or a bolt on block that has one mount hole?
    Disclaimer: ComCycle USA

  18. #18
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    ..

    Quote Originally Posted by hairygut
    any wisdom on the actual mounting process of the derailer to the bike? I took it of the plate and its all downhill from there.
    p.s. my bb has the spacer on the drive side and all
    What year bike is it? I am assuming it's a U.S. made EVO? If so - you'll need a derailleur mounting bracket that came with the frame - it should be as easy as screwing the E-type FD into the mounting bracket.

    You do need approximately a 1.5mm spacer to space out the crankset to avoid the chainring hitting the driveside bolt.

    Yes - all these issues have been flushed out in subsequent model years - but I can still help you trouble shoot them.
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  19. #19
    yarrrp
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    it has the two mount holes. i don't have a mounting block and I do run a spacer on the drive side. thanks for the help. it has been driving me absolutely bonkers and the ipod is bad form on group rides.

  20. #20
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    If it is a newer one - with the two mounting holes - sometimes you need to lightly sand any overspray paint to get better alignment of the derailleur -
    Simple | Proven | Reliable

    http://chumbaracing.blogspot.com/

  21. #21
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    Upset

    Quote Originally Posted by CHUMBAevo
    If it is a newer one - with the two mounting holes - sometimes you need to lightly sand any overspray paint to get better alignment of the derailleur -
    Hey Chumba people, its driving me crazy been in 4 different LBS, 4 mechanics & everybody gave up, just cant remove that chain rubbing thing. Tried all, reduce, remove, replace spacers, made adjustments and everything. I dont want to ride with a noisy bike. I dont think frame is flexed, its only more than 2 months old, not abused. Friends here are hesitant to buy Chumba anymore.

  22. #22
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    As a bike-mechanic, that thing about "which side do you want it to rub on" might be valid. Lots of bikes will tend to rub somewhat at their "extremes". It would be nice if you could adjust for no rub at all, but unfortunately it's not realistic. It depends on how bad the rub is. If it's adjusted to not rub in the larger cogs, how bad is it in the smaller ones? Does it only rub in the absolute smallest? Another form of rub that I get is the chain contacting the bottom of the cage, but when the bike is weighted there is no contact.

    I see that you're using an E-type with the SLX cranks. The SLX cranks are supposed to work well with the SLX derailer (made for a double-setup), so that could be a factor. I'd try the SLX E-type. On the other hand, some rub in the extremes is often very common. Using the E-type SLX (for 2-rings) probably gives you the best chance of making it work. Just speculating: the XT derailer probably has to be "narrower" to derailer the chain for 3 gears. If it wasn't it would be difficult to derail the chain. The double SLX could be wider because it doesn't have to shift through so much range. If using the SLX double "E" doesn't work, then you have to adjust it as best as possible and live with some rub. If it's adjusted correctly (no rub in the easiest gears) you may never notice it, as well as as things wear in it could do a little better over time.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

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  23. #23
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    Hope

    Quote Originally Posted by Jayem
    As a bike-mechanic, that thing about "which side do you want it to rub on" might be valid. Lots of bikes will tend to rub somewhat at their "extremes". It would be nice if you could adjust for no rub at all, but unfortunately it's not realistic. It depends on how bad the rub is. If it's adjusted to not rub in the larger cogs, how bad is it in the smaller ones? Does it only rub in the absolute smallest? Another form of rub that I get is the chain contacting the bottom of the cage, but when the bike is weighted there is no contact.

    I see that you're using an E-type with the SLX cranks. The SLX cranks are supposed to work well with the SLX derailer (made for a double-setup), so that could be a factor. I'd try the SLX E-type. On the other hand, some rub in the extremes is often very common. Using the E-type SLX (for 2-rings) probably gives you the best chance of making it work. Just speculating: the XT derailer probably has to be "narrower" to derailer the chain for 3 gears. If it wasn't it would be difficult to derail the chain. The double SLX could be wider because it doesn't have to shift through so much range. If using the SLX double "E" doesn't work, then you have to adjust it as best as possible and live with some rub. If it's adjusted correctly (no rub in the easiest gears) you may never notice it, as well as as things wear in it could do a little better over time.
    Hi Jayhem, thanks a lot, you give me hope How bad the rub is? If i prefer to rub it while on the largest cog, the rub is slight when no load (not riding), when i ride it rubs heavily on the largest and on next cog succeding cog belw (2 cogs), just the same the other way around (on the smallest and on the next bigger cog (2 cogs). Your maybe right, XT derailler maybe is too narrow (i forgot to mention, im using XT tripple rings before and only encounter this problem when i change to SLX double). What i experienced with the tripple is rub on the bottom part of the derailler, can live with it anyway. By the way, anyone who happened to measure (or knows it) the SLX-E double plates gap width? Just want to make sure its wider than the XT-E tripple before i purchase one. Thanks a lot.

  24. #24
    yarrrp
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    Quote Originally Posted by roel
    Hi Jayhem, thanks a lot, you give me hope How bad the rub is? If i prefer to rub it while on the largest cog, the rub is slight when no load (not riding), when i ride it rubs heavily on the largest and on next cog succeding cog belw (2 cogs), just the same the other way around (on the smallest and on the next bigger cog (2 cogs). Your maybe right, XT derailler maybe is too narrow (i forgot to mention, im using XT tripple rings before and only encounter this problem when i change to SLX double). What i experienced with the tripple is rub on the bottom part of the derailler, can live with it anyway. By the way, anyone who happened to measure (or knows it) the SLX-E double plates gap width? Just want to make sure its wider than the XT-E tripple before i purchase one. Thanks a lot.
    Does it rub on the vf2?
    Last edited by hairygut; 08-25-2009 at 06:52 PM.

  25. #25
    yarrrp
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    can i get a how to on mounting this thing? thanks
    Last edited by hairygut; 08-25-2009 at 06:51 PM.

  26. #26
    yarrrp
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    bump

  27. #27
    yarrrp
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    no one knows?

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