Just bought a 737EBB...any thoughts?- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Just bought a 737EBB...any thoughts?

    Howdy...I just purchased a 737EBB. I am going to build it up as a sinlge speed. Here' the build plan:

    Size medium frame
    Surly KM fork
    Cheapo wheelset
    Truvativ Stylo Cranks
    Race face cockpit
    BB7 brakes

    I'll share photos when the build is complete.

    In the meantime, does anyone have any thoughts, cautions, or observations they'd like to share about the frame? Good...Bad...Ugly...

    Thanks!
    -Bill


  2. #2
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    watch out for the fork knob/down tube interference alot of us have run into. may need a bottom cup spacer for the headset, like the S3 Plus headset has an extra 5mm on the bottom.

  3. #3
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    He's running a rigid fork he shouldn't have a clearance issue.

    Don't over tighten your ebb bolts, some have had issues with them cracking the welds. --Mark

  4. #4
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    You will find that the brake cable running to the rear brake will be lose in the provided cable guides. I have seen on here that you can buy some kind of shim to put in the guides or something but I have no idea how where to get these. I just run one extra guide between the two on teh top two and it keeps the cable pretty tight.


    If any one knows where to get these shims please post it. I would also advise against bending the guides to hold the cable because after a few bends I have seen that the guides brake off.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by AtotheZ
    You will find that the brake cable running to the rear brake will be lose in the provided cable guides. I have seen on here that you can buy some kind of shim to put in the guides or something but I have no idea how where to get these. I just run one extra guide between the two on teh top two and it keeps the cable pretty tight.


    If any one knows where to get these shims please post it. I would also advise against bending the guides to hold the cable because after a few bends I have seen that the guides brake off.
    Just wrap a layer (or two) of electrical tape around the housing and jam it in the guide. Or perhaps a layer of heat shrink tubing.

  6. #6
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    Whe you do this does it bend the guide at alll?

  7. #7
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    Skip the KM fork and get a Salsa Cr-Moto. Close to the same price, more compliant, more sexy.

    Pitch the big EBB set screws (bolts), and go to the hardware store and get some real set screws. Smaller, cleaner, lighter.

    Some gear combos won't work with the stock EBB. Be prepared to either buy a half link, a Phil Wood EBB, or pick another gear.

    If you know someone who can braze on new guides you can get nice ones from Paragon Machine Works.



    Other than that it's the best frame for the dollar. The small has some geometry issues that do not carry over to the med/lg so be happy that you're not a little fellow. If this is your first 29'er be sure to leave the fork a little long and use some spacers to play with your bar height (probably not a bad idea on any bike that's vastly different from what you are used to).
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  8. #8
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    Hey Dicky,

    I know that you changed out your Bottom Bracket for an expandable one. One quick question, what did you replace the set screws with since you didn't need them anymore. I did the same thing you did but am not sure the best way to cover up the set screw holes.

    I would suggest the On-One fork - Pure Sex

    Zion Finished 001_1.jpg

    Just be sure to shave the dumb V-Brake Bosses and the Repaint

    Zion Finished 004_4.jpg

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by AtotheZ
    Hey Dicky,

    I know that you changed out your Bottom Bracket for an expandable one. One quick question, what did you replace the set screws with since you didn't need them anymore. I did the same thing you did but am not sure the best way to cover up the set screw holes.
    I didn't put a Bushnell in my Zion. I have one in my Thylacine. I put a Phil Wood set screw type in my Zion.

    I would imagine you could just stick some set screws in there with Loctite, and make sure they're not touching the Bushnell (or Carver, I guess).

    That, or candle wax.

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  10. #10
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    Ahh sorry, I thought you put the Bushnell in there - I will try the set screw thing - Thanks.

    Oh - it's a Carver (it's this kind of cheap, corner cutting componet purchases that keep me out of the million dollar Zion club)

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by AtotheZ
    Ahh sorry, I thought you put the Bushnell in there - I will try the set screw thing - Thanks.

    Oh - it's a Carver (it's this kind of cheap, corner cutting componet purchases that keep me out of the million dollar Zion club)

    I only had the PW EBB left over from my Dean. No better place to stick a $100 EBB than in a $145 frame, right?
    I almost doubled it's value.

    I like the design on the Carver actually.
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  12. #12
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    whats the set screw size? mine is sitting at home and i want to run out at lunch and pick up the new bolts.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by the locust
    whats the set screw size? mine is sitting at home and i want to run out at lunch and pick up the new bolts.
    I know they probably are sized M(whatever), but the heads accept a 4mm allen key. Hope that helps.
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  14. #14
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    the hardware store out here didn't have metric stainless. but ill post up when i find out what size they are for sure.

  15. #15
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    What are the geometry issues of the Small?

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by gauncher
    What are the geometry issues of the Small?
    Here it is in my opinion:

    The front end has a head tube angle of 71 degrees. Couple that with a 43mm offset fork, and you get a trail number around 80mm. Some might call that "stable". I call it slow.

    Then you have a 74.5 degree seat tube angle to keep the effective top tube numbers reasonable and toe clearance manageable.

    Now you have a bike that wants to push in the corners (wash out, whatever you want to call it). It's an awkward combo that puts your weight forward on a slow handling machine. It always felt funny, but until I rode my current bike I couldn't put a finger on it.

    The medium gets a 72 degree HTA and a 73.5 degree STA for comparison's sake.
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  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by teamdicky
    Here it is in my opinion:

    The front end has a head tube angle of 71 degrees. Couple that with a 43mm offset fork, and you get a trail number around 80mm. Some might call that "stable". I call it slow.

    Then you have a 74.5 degree seat tube angle to keep the effective top tube numbers reasonable and toe clearance manageable.

    Now you have a bike that wants to push in the corners (wash out, whatever you want to call it). It's an awkward combo that puts your weight forward on a slow handling machine. It always felt funny, but until I rode my current bike I couldn't put a finger on it.

    The medium gets a 72 degree HTA and a 73.5 degree STA for comparison's sake.

    What kind of trail number are you getting on the medium? What about a fork with more offset?

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by gauncher
    What kind of trail number are you getting on the medium? What about a fork with more offset?

    Low 70's (if I remember correctly). Feels very nice.

    A fork like the On-One or Vassago would help a lot... bring things down to the low 70's I would think (no time to do the calculations/going home now).
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