Help spec my XCL Please!- Mtbr.com
Results 1 to 12 of 12
  1. #1

    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Posts
    171

    Help spec my XCL Please!

    I'm planning on pulling the trigger on an XCL --- DirtDad was kind enough to bring one by to demo, and after checking the Heckler, the Intense 5.5, I've settled on the Chumba.

    The rub is, i'll need to piece this together over the next few months, as I've got to squirel the money away bit by bit from cash jobs, so what i hope to do is buy a new part every week or so, until i've got all the kit ready to go, then go for the frameset.

    so, I'm planning on the xcl with either the RP 23, and will get a chris king headset.

    The only thing I'm somewhat settled on, is a Pike 454.

    I'd love some input as to the rest of the build out. It's been 5 yrs since my last mtn bike purchase, and I'm pretty out of the loop as far as the components/brakes / wheels go.

    My riding would be primarily CC, with the occasional trip out of town ( Sedona,CO) and the very occasional 3 ft ledge drop... I love to climb, and I want maintenance to not be an issue. So parts that are not SUPER heavy, but I don't expect to build a 25 pounder either, although under 30 would be nice.

    I just want a bike I can depend on, for a few years!

    suggestions as to brand and model parts would be great-- I figure my first purchase will be hubs/wheelset.

    Im about 170LB's.


    thanks for any input!

    cz

  2. #2
    WWJR
    Reputation: IH8MUD's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    459
    why not go with the basic build kit it comes with, and tweak from there? the parts in that kit arent bad at all. the only things i tweaked from the basic build kit were, wheels/hubs, seatpost, seat, headset, etc... I knew I wanted a few things different from the kit, so I purchased accordingly.

    BTW, I have a WTB Laser V saddle BRAND NEW! its doesnt fit me very well. Ill make you a sweet deal on it. Its the titanium one which retails for $100. Ive ridden on it once! $85?
    i also have a FSA Gravity seatpost. Never ridden on. Came with the bike. Ill throw it in with the saddle!
    Last edited by IH8MUD; 03-16-2008 at 01:44 PM.

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation: neilster1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    189
    Sounds like DirtDad has already started helping him out, by all means continue to use him. That's only fair.

    SRAM SRAM SRAM! I'd recommend x9 or higher for the drivetrain.. consider x0 gripshifters. One ride on a gripshift bike and you'll never go back to triggers. I would NOT recommend the fsa crank.. go shimano XT here.
    Wheels.. depends on whether you want tubeless or not. The Chumba-specced wheelset is a good wheelset if you don't care for tubeless. If you do want tubeless go hope pro II hubs w/mavic 819 or 823 rims. Go CK for the hubs if you have the money.

    That's my .02, YMMV.

  4. #4
    Mmmm Rocks Good
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    645

    Why NOT FSA Crankset?

    Quote Originally Posted by neilster1
    Sounds like DirtDad has already started helping him out, by all means continue to use him. That's only fair.

    SRAM SRAM SRAM! I'd recommend x9 or higher for the drivetrain.. consider x0 gripshifters. One ride on a gripshift bike and you'll never go back to triggers. I would NOT recommend the fsa crank.. go shimano XT here.
    Wheels.. depends on whether you want tubeless or not. The Chumba-specced wheelset is a good wheelset if you don't care for tubeless. If you do want tubeless go hope pro II hubs w/mavic 819 or 823 rims. Go CK for the hubs if you have the money.

    That's my .02, YMMV.
    Why NOT FSA Crankset? I am very pleased w/the FSA Crankset. I've been on mine in muddy, icy western Pa. trails for about 3 months now w/out missing a beat? They seem pretty stiff and the bearings are still cruising smoothly? The finish is holding up well so I'm not sure why you would prefer XT over them?

  5. #5
    mtbr member
    Reputation: neilster1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    189
    Quote Originally Posted by PaMtnBkr
    Why NOT FSA Crankset? I am very pleased w/the FSA Crankset. I've been on mine in muddy, icy western Pa. trails for about 3 months now w/out missing a beat? They seem pretty stiff and the bearings are still cruising smoothly? The finish is holding up well so I'm not sure why you would prefer XT over them?
    I went 2x9 with them and put on a blackspire stinger chain tensioner.. the chainring bolts that hold on the granny rub the tensioner plate. My testing showed that the XT's don't do that, so I switched. What that tells me is that either there isn't a standard for that sort of crankset or that FSA isn't paying much attention if it exists. Other than that those cranks are fine, but I was really hacked off about the problem.

    FYI.. I'm selling a used set of FSA afterburner cranks.

  6. #6
    NWchumba
    Guest
    Fox 32 Talas RLC... its the only way to go

  7. #7
    mtbr member
    Reputation: neilster1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    189
    Quote Originally Posted by NWchumba
    Fox 32 Talas RLC... its the only way to go
    QR vs. 20mm can be a religious discussion.. but you can't beat the lateral stiffness of a 20mm thru-axle. You have to get a fox 36mm to get there with the associated weight penalty.

  8. #8
    eci
    Reputation: snowskilz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    2,707
    Are you in colorado? i have an xcl and love riding it.

    My build
    Orange xcl dhx air size med
    Maverick sc with maverick hub
    819 rims
    hope rear hub
    Truvativ team stem
    sunline bars
    XT Cranks
    x9 shifters
    x9 rear der
    Thomson seat post
    sdg bel air saddle
    hope mono mini brakes
    xt cassette
    maxxis crossmark and ignitor lust tires
    chumba seat clamp
    xt front der
    951 chain

    It weighs in just above 29 lbs and takes a beating

  9. #9
    NWchumba
    Guest
    haha I've started the debate

    QR works fine for anybody. I'm going to race 4X with it. Some of the Pro DJ'rs use it. It saves weight. Use the DT Swiss qr's and you have a stiff wheel.

    20mm is also nice, but not necessary for anything under 150mm travel. Just my nickel.

    P.S. it costs a dime to make a nickel and 3 cents to make a penny.

  10. #10
    mtbr member
    Reputation: neilster1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    189
    I'll say almost everybody.. I had a `06 TALAS RL (oem fork) on a different bike and it was flexy.. you could feel it doing tight switchbacks and turns at speed. I learned to expect the flex and worked with it. The TA just plain sticks the front wheel to the ground.. it made a huge difference in cornering.

    Just my experience..

  11. #11
    shred my gnar
    Reputation: happy_ending's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    604
    Quote Originally Posted by neilster1
    I went 2x9 with them and put on a blackspire stinger chain tensioner.. the chainring bolts that hold on the granny rub the tensioner plate. My testing showed that the XT's don't do that, so I switched. What that tells me is that either there isn't a standard for that sort of crankset or that FSA isn't paying much attention if it exists. Other than that those cranks are fine, but I was really hacked off about the problem.

    FYI.. I'm selling a used set of FSA afterburner cranks.
    just curious... i run my xcl 2x9 as well but never considered using a chain tensioner with that set-up and every thing seems to work well... just shortened up the chain. so why the tensioner on a 2x9?

  12. #12
    mtbr member
    Reputation: neilster1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    189
    Almost zero chain slap, plus more chain clearance at the rear derailleur.

Members who have read this thread: 0

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

THE SITE

ABOUT MTBR

VISIT US AT

© Copyright 2019 VerticalScope Inc. All rights reserved.