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Thread: Got Diet?

  1. #1
    WWJR
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    Got Diet?

    is there very much you can do to drop the weight of the XCL?

    I purchased the large, basic build kit, Fox Vanilla RLC, Fox RP23, plus a few tweaks.
    Race Face NEXT SL carbon bars
    Thomson seatpost
    Thomson stem
    Chris King headset
    DT Swiss 5.0 wheels
    Hope Pro II hubs
    and obv some pedals

    currently 30lbs
    anyone riding the 32 Talas? how do you like that shock?
    Last edited by IH8MUD; 04-22-2008 at 08:43 PM.

  2. #2
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    what saddle are you running?

  3. #3
    Surfing trails
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    You can do a lot to trim the weight off your bike but none of it is cheap. Last summer a customer of mine who had recently lost 40 lbs. wanted to slim his bike down and get it as low weight as possible. I think he took it a bit into overkill territory but it was his money and he's happy so here's what he did. He has a SC Nomad and it went from a 32 lb. bike to a 24 lb. bike. I'm not kidding. (WARNING: reading this may make your wallet squirm and run for cover)

    I don't remember every detail or component but I remember he replaced everything with carbon where he could. Carbon handlebars ofcourse, carbon seatpost / post clamp, Bontrager carbon stem and spacers and carbon FSA triple cranks with Ti Eggbeaters. He also had Nokon shift cables, XTR ti cassette, Industry Nine Ultralite wheels with Stan's lightweight rims and a titanium QR through axle system similar to Chumba's, Stan's Crow tires and NoTubes system, and a hollow pin SRAM chain. He then added an SDG saddle (don't remember which), Marta SL 160 F&R brakes with braided steel lines and titanium mounting hardware. In fact he replaced every bolt and screw on the entire bike with titanium and some of those he had to have Racebolts custom make (took weeks). He kept his 36 Float R fork but switched out the DHX Air for a PUSH'd RP23. The crowning moment was when he found a local fabricator to make a custom carbon fiber suspension linkage AND solid carbon VPP link for the Nomad. That VPP part alone cost a very nice car payment. We're talking a high end AMG Mercedes car payment.

    Like I said he got his fully built Nomad down to 24 lbs. which is lighter than my hardtail. But it cost him over $4000 to do it. He says it was a reward for all the hard work spent losing the 40 pounds. And he's a private jet pilot so I guess he can afford it.

    You certainly don't have to do all that he did to shed some grams but maybe I provided some XCL weight loss ideas.

    *******

    To answer your other question I ride a 2006 32 Talas RLC on my hardtail and I love it. I keep it between 90 and 114mm travel (0-8 clicks at 3mm intervals on older Talas) depending on the trail. It's never needed anything besides a yearly service and it's still as smooth and plush as it ever was.

  4. #4
    WWJR
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    ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^


    Quote Originally Posted by Rover Nick
    what saddle are you running?
    i have a brand new WTB Laser V titanium saddle in the garage, but I dont like it. I have the Chumba saddle on it right now.
    you know...im prolly wasting my time. I really dont want to challenge the integrity of the bike, and i dont guess 30-31lbs is really that bad. I just had the chance to pedal a buddys 28lb bike, and fell in love. but he also had a $$$ wheelset on there.

  5. #5
    Surfing trails
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    Yeah, he went off the deep end with the shaving weight but if you went with an air fork and lighter wheels you could easily knock off 2-3 pounds.

  6. #6

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    diet options

    I've been seriously considering an XCL, but want to get it down to 29lbs or so. Some things I looked at changing:

    What tires are you using? The chumba build comes with wire bead maxxis - you could save a lot of weight here and still have good tires (this really depends on your preference)

    What Crankset? The FSA is sturdy but not light. XT would save you 1/4 - 1/2 pound (IIRC)

    Fork would save weight, but not inexpensively.

    Other than that it looks like you have a great build that balances weight and strength. I would just ride it and smile!

  7. #7
    WWJR
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    Quote Originally Posted by cmckim
    I've been seriously considering an XCL, but want to get it down to 29lbs or so. Some things I looked at changing:

    What tires are you using? The chumba build comes with wire bead maxxis - you could save a lot of weight here and still have good tires (this really depends on your preference)

    What Crankset? The FSA is sturdy but not light. XT would save you 1/4 - 1/2 pound (IIRC)

    Fork would save weight, but not inexpensively.

    Other than that it looks like you have a great build that balances weight and strength. I would just ride it and smile!
    hey thx! im actually looking into some different tires. the FSA cranks will have to stay awhile, but i will look into these options when $ is a bit more accessible.

  8. #8
    Older than I feel
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    Kenda Cortez 2.4 tires fit nicely, are fairly light, roll well, and can be had for about $20 each at Jenson USA. That's what I'm rolling on my XCL. They probably won't work well in mud, but they're pretty good for the trail conditions here in the SF Bay area.
    Work is the curse of the biking classes.

  9. #9
    it's....
    Reputation: Strafer's Avatar
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    I got my Med XCL down to 29 LBs by going 1X9.

  10. #10
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    XCL's

    The XCL is not a real hard bike to get down to the 25-27lb range.

    Here is a link to Dirt Dads 24.something weight
    http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=380854

    Also here is my personal XCL
    http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=382105
    In this post the bike is 25.5lbs which isnt too hard to get to.

    I've dropped a bit of weight off of it lately and in its current form it sits at 25lbs flat. I can go even lighter if I wanted to / had the cash to but honestly the bike is perfect where it sits.

    So if you wanted to drop a bit of weight you can get to 28lbs with out breaking the bank.

  11. #11
    WWJR
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    Quote Originally Posted by monty797
    The XCL is not a real hard bike to get down to the 25-27lb range.

    Here is a link to Dirt Dads 24.something weight
    http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=380854

    Also here is my personal XCL
    http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=382105
    In this post the bike is 25.5lbs which isnt too hard to get to.

    I've dropped a bit of weight off of it lately and in its current form it sits at 25lbs flat. I can go even lighter if I wanted to / had the cash to but honestly the bike is perfect where it sits.

    So if you wanted to drop a bit of weight you can get to 28lbs with out breaking the bank.
    thanks Monty! theres an xcl just like yurs (XTR everything) up at my LBS. its right around 25-26 too. nice build!!

  12. #12
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    np man, its a pretty fun bike as it sits.

    I'm thinking about building it a bit burlier or stripping it down to the frame, selling the frame and picking up a EVO instead.

    I have my XC steed that I run already that I like more than the XCL (Trek 69'er SS) I like the single speed for XC riding (don't ask I'm a bit loony) and want something that is a bit more aggressive (bigger jumps, bike parks, and stuff like that) which I think the EVO would handle better.

    I will say though, the single best upgrade I made to my XCL for XC racing / riding was running a Fox F120 RLC fork. That thing was just plain amazing and really livened up the XCL.

  13. #13
    WWJR
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    well, if you wanna dump any of yur XTR stuff, lemme know!

    im bored, and wanted to see exactly where to cut, and how much itll cost. so, just from what i compared from the above build:

    FSA cranks ----> XTR bout 220g's
    SRAM cassette ----> XTR bout 100g's
    X9 rear derailer ----> XTR bout 50g's
    X9 shifters ----XTR bout 0g's
    Avid Juicy Fives ----> XTR brakes bout ???g's (I couldnt figure out what all of the components weighed)

    seems like one of the biggest places to shed weight is w/ the fork @ almost a 1/2lb.
    Vanilla RLC 4.37lbs ----> Float RLC 3.89lbs

    FYI, theres a pound alone between the different size frames. (I think)

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by hullendersauce
    well, if you wanna dump any of yur XTR stuff, lemme know!

    im bored, and wanted to see exactly where to cut, and how much itll cost. so, just from what i compared from the above build:

    FSA cranks ----> XTR bout 220g's
    SRAM cassette ----> XTR bout 100g's
    X9 rear derailer ----> XTR bout 50g's
    X9 shifters ----XTR bout 0g's
    Avid Juicy Fives ----> XTR brakes bout ???g's (I couldnt figure out what all of the components weighed)

    seems like one of the biggest places to shed weight is w/ the fork @ almost a 1/2lb.
    Vanilla RLC 4.37lbs ----> Float RLC 3.89lbs

    FYI, theres a pound alone between the different size frames. (I think)
    Yeah there is a good difference between the frames. A bunch of other parts were chosen for weight.

    Post
    Wheels (1500g)
    Tires (everyone always forgets these)
    Saddle

    All of those will add up to a significant savings as well.

  15. #15
    the train keeps rollin
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    Hullendersauce,

    1st ask yourself this question. Why did you buy an XCL if you want a light bike? Yeah they can be built light, but you should have gotten a 5-6lb frame if you wanted some weight weenie bike.

    The XCL is suppose to be a bullet proof Hardcore XC/AM rig.

    Your setup is pretty sweet.

    Here's a couple cheap ways to loose some weight, and not spew a bunch of money away.

    Grips, replace with ESI or WCS grips, will save -100g over most lock on grips, or about 50g over most Kraton grips.

    Tires, now becareful here, if you're heavy or ride in sharp rocky terrain, this is not a place to skimp, there's plenty of 2.2 - 2.3 tires in the 600-700g range. What tires are you running?

    Seatpost, I would stick with your Thomson, definitely don't go carbon, they don't weigh much less, spendy, not worth it. But! measure your seatpost where you ride it at it's highest position, mark it at the seat collar, remove, trim it down if possible, Check with Chumba on min insert, then add an extra inch. If you have a 410mm post, you may be able to trim 50-60mm off it, saving 25g at no cost ; )

    KMC X9SL Chain, about $50, weigh about 240g cut, non hollow pin chains weigh about 300g.

    $$$ weight saving
    If you really want to make a significant weight saving, you'll feel on the trail. Rebuild your wheels with Stans 355 rims, and SuperComp spokes. This will allow you to run standard tires tubeless, not kits involved, just some sealant and your tire. I would not recommend if you're over 200lbs or catch mondo air time. Rotating weight is where you will actually feel the difference though.

    peace.
    beaver hunt

  16. #16
    WWJR
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    Quote Originally Posted by snowdrifter
    Grips, replace with ESI or WCS grips, will save -100g over most lock on grips, or about 50g over most Kraton grips.

    Tires, now becareful here, if you're heavy or ride in sharp rocky terrain, this is not a place to skimp, there's plenty of 2.2 - 2.3 tires in the 600-700g range. What tires are you running?

    Seatpost, I would stick with your Thomson, definitely don't go carbon, they don't weigh much less, spendy, not worth it. But! measure your seatpost where you ride it at it's highest position, mark it at the seat collar, remove, trim it down if possible, Check with Chumba on min insert, then add an extra inch. If you have a 410mm post, you may be able to trim 50-60mm off it, saving 25g at no cost ; )

    KMC X9SL Chain, about $50, weigh about 240g cut, non hollow pin chains weigh about 300g.
    .
    thx brah for the input! I didnt even think about grips.
    I have the Maxxis Ignitors on there right now. Not sure how I feel about em. I researched some other tires, and it really seems like the others in this class of tire are about the same weight...=700-800g's
    And the chain idea is great too.

    i really do like the way its setup right now, but I need to put a few more miles under my belt before ill feel like i have it totally dialed in. I would like to see a couple to few pounds come off though. i purchased the XCL because of what it can handle as far as abuse, yes. But I like the fact that I can set this size- large, burly frame up to be a nimble and light trail bike. For the terrain out here in Colorado and the surrounding areas, this is perfect!! ie: climb, climb, climb, climb, loop, decend, decend, decend, decend.

  17. #17
    the train keeps rollin
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    Your Ignitors, 2.1 or 2.3 ? Wire or folding?
    beaver hunt

  18. #18
    WWJR
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    Quote Originally Posted by snowdrifter
    Your Ignitors, 2.1 or 2.3 ? Wire or folding?
    2.3 folding=790g's

  19. #19
    Ride Everything
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    Sean,

    Are you running tubes? If so, get some 120g Maxxis tubes. They're not stupid-light, but lighter than most.

    And even though they weight a little more, the Schwalbe Albert/Fat Albert tires roll much "quicker" than those Ignitors.
    GRAVELBIKE.COM - ride everything

  20. #20
    the train keeps rollin
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    [QUOTE=hullendersauce]2.3 folding=790g's[/QUOTE

    Nobby Nic 2.4 snakeskin, they run about 680g each. decent volumne ,rolls fast, and still grippy. Not as grippy as a Fat Albert, but you'll save -220g, and still have a pretty solid tire with the snakeskin sidewalls.
    beaver hunt

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