Any Whyte PRST-1, 4 Owners Out there?- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Any Whyte PRST-1, 4 Owners Out there?

    Anybody out there still ride the rare Whyte PRST-1 or the later PRST-4 models? Love the hear from the PRST owners out there about their bike and share feedbacks or modifications they done to this odd duck of a mountain bike design. Own the PRST-1 for couple of years and enjoy it immensely but would love the hear from owners of later PRST-4 with Dual-link (Marin bikes) swingarm out there compared to the single pivot design of the PRST-1.
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    Last edited by fjyang; 09-01-2008 at 03:00 AM.

  2. #2
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    I’ve still got my dads old Whyte PRST1 XT race bike from 2001. Its had a real thrashing and it’s just the standard V-brake model but everything apart from the gears work fine. As far as the ride goes I think it’s great, it bobs a little more than most modern FS bikes but I see you have A Fox RP23 rear shock so it doesn’t matter much. Somehow it’s still one if the stiffest and fastest bikes I have, the front can feel a little harsh over bumps but I’ve tried others with air shocks and they feel a lot plusher. Have you noticed the very unique sound you get from the frame on this bike? Rather like carbon frames.

    Sorry about the picture quality, I think my camera was having a bad day…



  3. #3
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    I'd agreed its one of the smoothest and solid feeling front and back bike there is. I'd tackle what little bobing there is on the back end with a RP23 platform shock and the stiff front end with a Fox float but with a AVA air canister so the spring rate is more linear with less air. The Fox AVA front shock make the front feel extra plush and it feel like it has more travel then the 4" stock.

    The only front end noise I feel when the fork compress is from the spherical bearing. I have to be carefull not the tighten it too much or too lose to cure the noise. The great thing about linkage forks is that when it compress, it still maintain frame geometry so unlike traditional forks it wont change from 70d headangle to 74d under hard breaking.

  4. #4
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    Hi, I bought a used Prst-1 frame 6 months ago on ebay.co.uk
    I am buying pieces to complete it but I think I will finish in the next summer....

    I red about Whyte Prst on Mba november 2000 (or 2001?) issue...and I loved it immediately...

    I bought a rear disc brake adaptor in Uk from the distributor; the front adaptor was not more available so I could made one from a pdf file I received from fjyang....a real friend.....thanks!! :-)

    So I will ride it next year and I will post my impressions... :-)

    <table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.it/lh/photo/R96_ZtnGspP3c92xvO8JLg"><img src="https://lh5.ggpht.com/eros.pedron/SMgmNmtie_I/AAAAAAAAAWE/m_jqVIdhTks/s800/whyte_prst1_ero.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">Da <a href="https://picasaweb.google.it/eros.pedron/WhytePRST1">Whyte PRST-1</a></td></tr></table>

    <table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/oGPOr7Yb9p0iUYkOLWAt5w"><img src="https://lh5.ggpht.com/eros.pedron/SMgqhRCPX_I/AAAAAAAAAWM/r8f1fPUnmIc/s800/004.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">Da <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/eros.pedron/WhytePRST1">Whyte PRST-1</a></td></tr></table>

    <table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/c9HjOUfZYMzE1zRQWfpwig"><img src="https://lh4.ggpht.com/eros.pedron/SMgqhf5mGMI/AAAAAAAAAWU/6AzGvUExhX4/s800/002.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">Da <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/eros.pedron/WhytePRST1">Whyte PRST-1</a></td></tr></table>


    PS Hi Frank, how are u? What are u building now? :-)
    Last edited by superguzz; 09-11-2008 at 11:54 AM.

  5. #5
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    Just a word of warning, we’ve both got the same model that was know to have frame failures, just from looking at the bike I’m sure you can guess where, exactly on the H & Y of Whyte which is not a place you want a bike to break. It’s fortunately a fairly uncommon problem on our early models that was fixed on fjyang’s later model. As you can see the front shock mount is slightly different on all the bikes here, mine is the original the broke many times, yours was the second attempt that had a much lower failure rate and fjyang’s bike is the one they got it right with. I’m just saying this because I know a rider who was injured when it happened, most likely it won’t happen but don’t take too many bigger hits on the front, should be fine on XC and trail riding though.

  6. #6
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    At least now I know there are more then two Whyte PRST-1 owenrs out there ;-) I wonder about the production number of these bikes. The shock mount was an issue from the info I gather but didn't realized there were two design attempts to rectified the issue, maybe you can contact ATB sales in England when and if it fails for a replacement frame. The three different production frames pictured on this thread is what I hope this thread could be.

    The front fork lower shock Fox bushings suppose to wear out pretty fast and Whyte sell a replacement ball bearing bushing kit which is overkill (in a good way) but at least you don't have to worry about that pair of bushings wearing out. I added a small mud flap/fender under the front shock to keep dirt and water away from the shock and I highly recommended. Go ride without a mud fender on a damp day and you'll be suprised how much crap it gathers down there around the front shock.

    Hey Superguzz or as I remember the Italian Architect! ;-) How are you? Hope the disc brake adapter plans work out for you. My bike projects are all over the place but Mrazek FS is my latest creation but at 7 bikes my girl is threaten to leave me so putting on the breaks for now
    Last edited by fjyang; 09-11-2008 at 01:27 AM.

  7. #7
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    I am thinking about the three different ammo links....it's very interesting argoument...mmmmh
    fjyang's bike has the best link...the V3 frame....mmmh...

    @fjyang: yes...the italian architect!! thanks a lot for adaptor diagram....I made two of 6061 alu....next summer my prst will slow down with a pair of disks.... :-)

    good luck, bye

  8. #8
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    Absolutly Addicted

    Yeh, I came across my PRST1 nearly four years ago, I was previously an engineer, and the design will always win over a trad fork, doesn't matter how good a telescopic fork is it doesn't stand a chance, it just goes to show how much looks play a part or this design would have seen off all its competition, thought I would never sell it.... until I was talking to my local Whyte dealer on how the only flaw I saw was that I would regularly jam the chain when selecting the granny ring on steep accents, and he mentioned the PRST4, which had just reached the end of its production life.... but he mentioned that ATB had 4 frames hanging about in their warehouse.... I knew then that one had my name on it!

    New and old!

    Sorry to anyone out there that paid the RRP, I managed to get this brand new babe for a grand with all the warrentees, true it had LX on it (except the 2008 XT brakes) I have since replaced Crank, front and rear mech and changers with 2008 XT, DMR V12 mag peddles and it also came with a rather plush SDG i-beam seat & post, I also swapped my Carbon Easton bars from the PRST1, and on both upgraded both shock bushes to the lifetime ones, and now added a Blackspire bash ring, and tie-wrapped a black mouse mat to protect the rear arm from chain slap

    The only negative I have for this (which is probably the use I make of it) is that I run the sus quite low and that makes the quad like do absolutely nothing, there are only two things I'd like to do to her now, replace the shocks with Fox with remote lockout and upgrade to XTR.... but these are both hyper critical and I am in no rush to do, I have another bike for DH, but to me this bike is the best designed bike ever, no question, I have never had a bad ride on it! ooh the bash ring is due to my sway towards free riding, which this bike also does fantastically (even with only 4" of travel)

    I have stripped both of these bikes several times, so anyone got any questions fire away
    -------------------------
    Whyte PRST 4
    EPX Terrashark
    Specialized Hardrock (Modified)

    -------------------------

  9. #9
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    Hi leshark

    Finally someone out there rides a PRST-4! and you own both PRST-1 & 4 with both bike together in one picture is a rare sight indeed. Does the dual link PRST-4 rear end ride significantely different then the PRST-1 single pivot? Did you buy the bike from ATB directly?

    My PRST-1 rear end bob a bit with the stock Fox float R and a RP23 take care most of issue, supposely with dual link suspensions you don't need a platform shock to control bob. The front end provoke a either love it or hate it reaction but if you're from a engineering or design background, you'll appreciate the design even more. For me its love at first sight with PRST's. The front end track the terrain like no other fork and the feedback just solid and really communicate to the rider what the front end is doing. The latest 32-36mm stanchions forks with 20mm throu axil come close to PRST linkage front rigidity that was design 1999-2000 and I can't imagine what the front end will be like if Whyte have 8 years of developement & refinement to their linkage design?

  10. #10
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    hi, i own a PRST-1 but I have to finish to buil it; so I did not ride it but I am asking the same question.....is PRST-4 better than the 1??
    bye

  11. #11
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    Whyte PRST'S Predecessor

    Hi Guys, I think I found the grand daddy of Whyte's PRST design. Its a company call Muddy-Fox, model Interactive Comp also a British company? The front end design is vary similar to PRST's and I got a feeling that John Whyte got a lot of inspiration from that bike. I'd also inlcude a pic of BMW's Televeler front end mountain bike for comparison.
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    Last edited by fjyang; 11-12-2008 at 05:27 AM.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by fjyang
    Hi leshark

    Finally someone out there rides a PRST-4! and you own both PRST-1 & 4 with both bike together in one picture is a rare sight indeed. Does the dual link PRST-4 rear end ride significantely different then the PRST-1 single pivot? Did you buy the bike from ATB directly?

    My PRST-1 rear end bob a bit with the stock Fox float R and a RP23 take care most of issue, supposely with dual link suspensions you don't need a platform shock to control bob. The front end provoke a either love it or hate it reaction but if you're from a engineering or design background, you'll appreciate the design even more. For me its love at first sight with PRST's. The front end track the terrain like no other fork and the feedback just solid and really communicate to the rider what the front end is doing. The latest 32-36mm stanchions forks with 20mm throu axil come close to PRST linkage front rigidity that was design 1999-2000 and I can't imagine what the front end will be like if Whyte have 8 years of developement & refinement to their linkage design?

    Alas no more, I sold the PRST1 to make way for a DH/Jump bike, the rear end is only different if you set them up properly, which is with a relatively high pressure, as you would for X-country, but I use mine more of an all mountain and epic riding, they both ride extremely light, as if they are about 5 lb lighter, I have ridden both on 6+ hour rides without problem, and I am not among the fittest, however I digress, I run then with about 40% sag, this is below the benefit of Quad link, so I really don't notice any improvement, although I never had a problem with bob on the PRST1, the main reason for the upgrade was the chain slap on the chain stay and just couldn't miss the opportunity, I bought it through Bike in Bristol who are White distributors although it came direct from ATB, but you are unlikely to get one now, I bought her in March, and there were 2 left. I really think White have missed a trick, I ride with guys on supposed all mountain bikes (Specialised and Marin) and on tricky down hill switchbacks, rocks (in fact all surfaces) I leave them standing
    -------------------------
    Whyte PRST 4
    EPX Terrashark
    Specialized Hardrock (Modified)

    -------------------------

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by superguzz
    hi, i own a PRST-1 but I have to finish to buil it; so I did not ride it but I am asking the same question.....is PRST-4 better than the 1??
    bye
    The only difference is the quad link and the rear triangle has no chain stay, although if you can live without the big gripper quick release, and you have a PRST1, look out for an old Marin rear end, that way you can get rid of the chain stay, which caused me grief with chain jam in the granny ring
    -------------------------
    Whyte PRST 4
    EPX Terrashark
    Specialized Hardrock (Modified)

    -------------------------

  14. #14
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    hey FJ, that's called a (modified) Hossack fork, BMW's recently reintroduced them on their high end sportbikes (K1200S or R or something I think?)

    You're right, Whyte may have actually been designing for Muddy Fox a couple years earlier.
    Some brits with better memories than me might weigh in on the subject.

    Whyte licenced his rear suspension design to Marin and they're still building them. Not the Whyte fork though.

    Sidenote: BMW's Telelever system was ripped off from the British Saxon design.
    (designer gave BMW a good couple months with his prototype, he forgot to have it patented first, they patented it, now he can't use his own design).

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    Broken rear swing arm

    Hi Guys,

    I'm a PRST-1 owner, but mine's rather sickly so I'm in need of some help.

    The rear triangular swing arm has cracked on the chain ring side through the weld for the bearing. So I'm looking for one of the following:

    - Someone with a rear swing arm for PRST-1 they no longer want.
    - Someone with a PRST-1 frameset they no longer want
    - Some guidance on how successful welding the frame will be (an engineer friend of mine says it can be done).

    I'm pretty sure the rear swing arm is the same for all frame sizes and that I want part number PRES20SA, so if anyone knows where I can get one that would be great.

    Thanks
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  16. #16
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    Sorry to see that happen on you PRST-1. It crack right around the single pivot so I recommend fixing it right away. I think your best bet is to try to get warrantey through ATB Sale who distribute Whyte in England. I'm sure they still have parts for the PRST's just not sure how much they want to charge you. Do you know what caused the crack?

    I seen a PRST-1 fitted with a elevated chain stay swingarm of the later JW-1 model's also from Whyte which is another options for you. I also think early 2000 Marin models which use the same single pivot rear swing arm as the Whyte's are interchangeable.

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    A warrantee replacement would be ideal apart from 2 things: -
    1. Whyte only offer a 5 year warrantee
    2. They haven't got any in stock

    Having said that I'll try calling ATB myself, and maybe get some recommendations from good dealers who might have a frameset or something knocking about in the store room.

    Tell me more about the Marin option, and if you know which models might be compatible so I can start search EBay and the other forums.

    Thanks for your comments.

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    prst1 owners

    Hi,

    i've just bought a prst1 , after many years of searching, for a decsent example, so another owner joins the ranks of the few..
    Apparently i am in need of a whyte setup template for the rear suspension, they were made from cardboard, so my question is has anyone still got one and if so could you please send me a photo, with the relevent diamensions on so that i could fabricate one.

    thanks in anticipation

    kevin

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by andyhyde66
    A warrantee replacement would be ideal apart from 2 things: -
    1. Whyte only offer a 5 year warrantee
    2. They haven't got any in stock

    Having said that I'll try calling ATB myself, and maybe get some recommendations from good dealers who might have a frameset or something knocking about in the store room.

    Tell me more about the Marin option, and if you know which models might be compatible so I can start search EBay and the other forums.

    Thanks for your comments.

    Sorry for such a late feedback but here it is, I know the 1999-2002 approx. Marin Mount Vision/East Peak rear swing arms are interchangeable with PRST-1's and Marin and Whyte all share the same bearing size and also Marin and Whyte have always joint develope rear suspension design's since late 90's. Even now you'll see that all carbon rear end of the Whyte E-120 have come across the atlantic and show up in 2009 Mount Vision after two year since its introduction in England.

    The rear disc adapter have since long gone from Whyte for the PRST-1's but I got a feeling if the Marin still have some adapter's left for their Mount Vision 99-2002 frames, it should bolt right on.

    Some like the clearance that was provided by the elevated chain stay design of the Marin's and Whyte JW-2's so many were transplanted by hardcore racers. Hope this helps.
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    Last edited by fjyang; 01-17-2009 at 07:28 PM.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by jblackburn
    Hi,

    i've just bought a prst1 , after many years of searching, for a decsent example, so another owner joins the ranks of the few..
    Apparently i am in need of a whyte setup template for the rear suspension, they were made from cardboard, so my question is has anyone still got one and if so could you please send me a photo, with the relevent diamensions on so that i could fabricate one.

    thanks in anticipation

    kevin
    Whats wrong with your rear end? I think it'll be hard press to get some kind of CAD files release from ATB sales regarding the PRST's. Your best bet is to get a early 1999-2002 rear end from Marin directly if they still have some left or find one off ebay.

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    set up template

    Hi,

    thanks for the reply, but the template i am enquiring about, is to set up the rear suspension, it states in the owner's manual, that you sit on the bike, put pressure into the rear shock and then check with the template, for correct travel, as for CAD files, that would'nt be a problem, as my brother has a wicked computer system linked to a lathe/cnc machine.

    thanks

    kevin

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    Hi,

    thanks for the reply, don't need new rear end, just need setup template which was supplied with all new whyte's prst1's to set up the rear suspension.

    thanks

    kevin

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by jblackburn
    Hi,

    thanks for the reply, but the template i am enquiring about, is to set up the rear suspension, it states in the owner's manual, that you sit on the bike, put pressure into the rear shock and then check with the template, for correct travel, as for CAD files, that would'nt be a problem, as my brother has a wicked computer system linked to a lathe/cnc machine.

    thanks

    kevin
    You really don't need the template to setup your rear suspension, I think I have the cardboard stash somwhere. 20-25% sag is the rule, I go with 20% myself and you suppose to pump the rear shock to match your weight so 185lb person should use 185psi in their rear shock as a rule. Like everything else, these are just guidelines to get you started and one should adjust up or down to suit their riding style and terrain.

    Some newer rear shock and fork from RockShox already have the sag measurement printed on the shock pistons or stanchions so its even easier to setup.

    Hope this helps

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    Hi,

    thanks for the info.
    does anyone know what the frame colour is called,apart from grey???and where can it be bought, for touching up stone chips.

    thanks

    kevin

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    Quote Originally Posted by byknuts
    You're right, Whyte may have actually been designing for Muddy Fox a couple years earlier.
    Some brits with better memories than me might weigh in on the subject.
    I remember the Muddy Fox bike from my youth, but the muddy fox was originally designed by Dave Smart in the very early 90s, he then licensed the design to MF. Jon Whyte was a very famous Formula 1 race car designer before he created Whyte bikes. He was the head suspension designer for Benetton in 1994 when Schumacher won his first F1 championship. Amazing bloke who bought real fresh ideas to the bike world. He really revolutionised the full suspension market in the UK as his bikes were the staple of many riders in the mid 90s.

  26. #26
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    IIRC about 4 or so years ago there was a dealer here in so cal had a number of these on ebay, new, a couple different builds, going for $500-600 or so, complete. Closeouts or somethin. Looked interesting, super cheap for the quality, but, (no offense of course) scary weird. You just don't know at the time what you passed up.
    Up close in photos they look pretty respectable.
    All bikes weigh 50 lbs. a 50lb. bike doesn't need a lock. a 40lb bike needs a 10lb. lock. a 30 lb. bike needs a 20lb. lock.

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    Seems you can luck out occaisonally too - having scoured e-bay and classifieds for a PRST-4 in decent nick (having previously owned a PRST-1); I finally stumbled upon the ATB Sales ex-demo / sale bikes page; where I picked up this PRST-4 / JW-4 - I'm not sure if it's the last one they had left; but they must be onto pretty low stock by now !



    amazing bike to ride; the 4 definately cured all the problems I experienced with my 1 - namely chainsuck and the terror of destroying a swingarm on a passing rock

    If you're still around leshark; I'd be interested to know of any improvements / preventative maintenance it's worth doing on the quads; I'm planning on getting a decent quality spherical bearing as a 1st job when the original fails.
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    Hi, I've managed to get a 2003 prst1 in really good condition. I've stripped it all the way down and rebuilt it with a lot of new parts. It was cable rim brakes but I've got a set of hydrolics for it. Whyte don't do the adaptor plates for the big gripper dropouts anymore but they were kind enough to provide me with the original cad drawings and I'm getting a set made up. Anyone else interested? I'm waiting on costs. Also, does anyone have a copy of the rear shock sag template at all so I can complete the setup please?

    Mark

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by thesphine
    Seems you can luck out occaisonally too - having scoured e-bay and classifieds for a PRST-4 in decent nick (having previously owned a PRST-1); I finally stumbled upon the ATB Sales ex-demo / sale bikes page; where I picked up this PRST-4 / JW-4 - I'm not sure if it's the last one they had left; but they must be onto pretty low stock by now !



    amazing bike to ride; the 4 definately cured all the problems I experienced with my 1 - namely chainsuck and the terror of destroying a swingarm on a passing rock

    If you're still around leshark; I'd be interested to know of any improvements / preventative maintenance it's worth doing on the quads; I'm planning on getting a decent quality spherical bearing as a 1st job when the original fails.
    I have managed to get through 2 Spherical bearings and both Shocks have been replaced, one just blew but the other was due to dirt getting into the seal, to try and stop this happening again I fitted a mudguard

    I also have had some bad cable rub on the front forks which I have sorted by redirecting the cables and adding cable ties to keep the cable from the frame.

    Also I fitted a neoprene chainstay protector to stop chain slap, although it wasn't scratching the frame the noise was annoying me (I used a mouse mat)

    I would really recommend a stripdown of the front sus and headset on a regular basis (this should be done on any top end bike) and regular replacement of cable inners, and the PRST's are super simple to stripdown an re-grease, unlike traditional forks!

    Hope this helps

    Rich
    -------------------------
    Whyte PRST 4
    EPX Terrashark
    Specialized Hardrock (Modified)

    -------------------------

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ceemac
    Hi, I've managed to get a 2003 prst1 in really good condition. I've stripped it all the way down and rebuilt it with a lot of new parts. It was cable rim brakes but I've got a set of hydrolics for it. Whyte don't do the adaptor plates for the big gripper dropouts anymore but they were kind enough to provide me with the original cad drawings and I'm getting a set made up. Anyone else interested? I'm waiting on costs. Also, does anyone have a copy of the rear shock sag template at all so I can complete the setup please?

    Mark
    Hi there.
    I am very very interested in original cad drawings so I could do its myself in a factory near my home.
    I am also interested in rear shock sag template 'cause I also do not own it.

    Thanks a lot for help.
    Kind regards.

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    I've been riding my PRST-1 since the bike was first introduced. Love it. I'm just back from a weekend of riding in the Brecon Beacons and it still soaks up the rocks and tracks without being deflected.

    Where I'm not as happy is in the tight and twisty singletrack. The PRST-1 (Preston) is at home in the rocks but wallows too much in the hardpack and turns. Is there a fix?

    Would a platform shock (RP-23?) rejuvinate my bike in the woods whilst leaving its rocky performance untouched. I'm out of the loop on shock developments over the last few years but it would be great to find a techno fix for the only flaw in my bike's armoury.

    Cheers,

    P&R

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by pieandrun
    I've been riding my PRST-1 since the bike was first introduced. Love it. I'm just back from a weekend of riding in the Brecon Beacons and it still soaks up the rocks and tracks without being deflected.

    Where I'm not as happy is in the tight and twisty singletrack. The PRST-1 (Preston) is at home in the rocks but wallows too much in the hardpack and turns. Is there a fix?

    Would a platform shock (RP-23?) rejuvinate my bike in the woods whilst leaving its rocky performance untouched. I'm out of the loop on shock developments over the last few years but it would be great to find a techno fix for the only flaw in my bike's armoury.

    Cheers,

    P&R
    Hi there...
    I own a 2005 Turner Burner that was factory assembled with a Manitou; last year I changed to a fox RP-23 and the bike became impressive, hard when needed, soft over rock sections....

    The RP23 is very good, you can really feel the difference between the 3 propedal positions, and the unlocked option is useful in dh sections......also remember that the PRST single pivot scheme needs a stable platform suspension...

    kind regards
    sg, Italy

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    As you may have noticed from other posts was lucky enought to get a 2003 Whyte PRST1 not that long ago. Since then it's been massively upgraded. The rear shock is a fox rp3 not the 23 but it certainly does a good job and I can't complain at all about it. The propedal works really well and I prefer that it's either on or off. An easy switch while on the move.

    Just to brag. Mine's now got new wider carbon bars with ergon grips, new Cane Creek headset, new XT 2009 front mech, rear mech, casette, hollow tech2 cracks and bottom bracket. New but 2008 xtr disk brake calipers with gear shift combo levers, Titanium discs (very flash,get me) fox rp3 rear shock with heavy duty ss top bushes and whyte upgraded bottom bushes (those make a big difference by the way). Easton xc2 wheels with slime tubes (not a big fan) and panaracer fire xc pro tyres, special self sealing silicon tape to protect the chain stay, lizard skin neoprine protectors on the shocks, fox float r on the front but that might get upgraded further. Replaced roll pins in the big grippers, SRAM 9 spd chain with powerlink (a dream for cleaning and maintaining) and helicopter tape anywhere that might rub. I think that's it. Oh and a bell! I'd forgotten that.

    Regards

    Mark

    Mark

  34. #34
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    I was surprise on how well the PRST's respond to shock mod's. The Fox RP23 or RP3's are a step up on the orignal Float R. I put a AVA canister on the front shock and it allows the shock to use most of its travel with a more linear spring rate, you need to squeez every inch you can get with a fixed 100mm/4" travel. I've also tried a X-fusion PVA shock on a Mrazek FS and vary impress with it and think it will perfrom better then my 07 Fox RP23, not sure about the latest RP23.

    I'd also got the CAD files for the rear disc plate but my source at the machine shop is gone so if anyone can get it made again, make a few more spars.

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    Does anyone need a replacement frame or parts?

    My neighbor bought this Whyte PRST-1 in 2001 from his friends at the Electra Bicycle Warehouse. It's been ridden it to get coffee a handful of times. Everything is original, frame size is 18" and it needs a good home. The only part that's been replaced are the tires "too much friction", note the original spoke protector!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Any Whyte PRST-1, 4 Owners Out there?-img_5074.jpg  

    Any Whyte PRST-1, 4 Owners Out there?-img_5075.jpg  


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    Good to hear the PRST-1 responds well to a bit of shock technology. Thanks.

    I think I'll give TF Tuned a go and see what I can achieve. Trust such an upgrade will also make me a better, fitter rider!

    I'll post back here with the result.

    Cheers,

    P&R

  37. #37
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    If for sale how much?

    Does anyone need a replacement frame or par
    My neighbor bought this Whyte PRST-1 in 2001 from his friends at the Electra Bicycle Warehouse. It's been ridden it to get coffee a handful of times. Everything is original, frame size is 18" and it needs a good home. The only part that's been replaced are the tires "too much friction", note the original spoke protector![/QUOTE]

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    asking price

    $800 obo.

  39. #39
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    what's for sale, just the frame or whole bike?
    As little bike as possible, as silent as possible.
    Latitude: 57ļ36' Highlands, Scotland

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    frame or whole bike?

    velobike + all:
    I'm selling the whole bike for $800.

  41. #41
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    Hello all good to find some other keen PRST owners!

    my issue- I recently tried to fit a float RP23 shock to the front and the leaver balks on the frame. So i fitted to the rear. Now over 6 years ago just before i bought my bike I tried one at Noahs and it had a lockout fitted to the front shock.
    So has anyone managed to fit say a Fox float RPL? the modern ones seem to slightly larger in diameter. any views welcome.
    ncidentally I have changed all the Sus bearings FOC and sperical. Like some others I run with a small plastic mudguard to shield the front shock and both shocks are fitted with lizard skin boots.

  42. #42
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    Just completed Mountain Mayhem 2010. Stacked my PRST-1 on the first lap, but restored my pride and completed 3 further laps. Team of 4 did 18 laps, so need to train for next year to break 20 lap ceiling ;-)

    Regretted doing test/practice rides on the Friday night (all on my own, in the mud!) and Saturday morning - but ho hum, will just ride at full tilt next year and discover the trail at race pace. Had some mods for the Race - new XT shifters, Gore Ride-On sealed gear cables which did me proud! Was bemused by the number of spectators (and riders - some passing me, others as I blasted past) commenting - "what the f**k is that!!!??" and "interesting steed..." Such an original bike - love her madly, considering she's just hit 10yrs old & gives young ,uns a damn good run...

  43. #43
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    Improvments......

    Quote Originally Posted by thesphine
    Seems you can luck out occaisonally too - having scoured e-bay and classifieds for a PRST-4 in decent nick (having previously owned a PRST-1); I finally stumbled upon the ATB Sales ex-demo / sale bikes page; where I picked up this PRST-4 / JW-4 - I'm not sure if it's the last one they had left; but they must be onto pretty low stock by now !



    amazing bike to ride; the 4 definately cured all the problems I experienced with my 1 - namely chainsuck and the terror of destroying a swingarm on a passing rock

    If you're still around leshark; I'd be interested to know of any improvements / preventative maintenance it's worth doing on the quads; I'm planning on getting a decent quality spherical bearing as a 1st job when the original fails.
    Hi, only just saw this comment..... I've tried to get better quality or different sorce of spherical, but I can get them from ATB for about a tenner, so I have two spare and clena it out every couple of months, I got mine from new so all the other bearings (inc. the shock ones) are lifetime bearings, I have stuck with split gear cables as its not my only bike its much easier to clean them after each ride and re-grece before a ride. I have a trimmed mud guard on the front, but no direct protection on the shocks as I clean the bike after (almost) every ride, I destroyed the front shock by not doing so. I have considered swapping the rear shock for a Fox RP23 to get heavy pro-peddle and keep my 40% sag I like and I believe with 40% sag the quad four rear is past its advantage. other than that good tyre choice is important, must be folding (for weight advantage) currently running Panaracer Fire XC pros, but too severe for dry riding, this is a light bike (riding) and seems to work best when crisp if you know what I mean!
    -------------------------
    Whyte PRST 4
    EPX Terrashark
    Specialized Hardrock (Modified)

    -------------------------

  44. #44
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    Just been offered a PRST-1 in a straight swap for a Fender guitar. I'm going to ask the present owner if I can have the bike for a week to try it out given what I have read here.

    Any advise any of you would give me on this? Anything specific to look out for (other than the usual wear'n'tear things)?

    I look forward to your replies.

    Andy.

  45. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andy Dobson
    Just been offered a PRST-1 in a straight swap for a Fender guitar. I'm going to ask the present owner if I can have the bike for a week to try it out given what I have read here.

    Any advise any of you would give me on this? Anything specific to look out for (other than the usual wear'n'tear things)?

    I look forward to your replies.

    Andy.
    Andy, on any bike check the following:
    Turn the bike upside down and spin the wheels, check they spin free and smooth and check for how straight they are, also roughly check the spokes are all tight
    check all the gears are cleanly selectable, no jumping, turning the bike back up, hold on the front brake and push the bike forward and feel for headset play. If its disc brakes run your finger over the rotors and check for bad wear.

    Other than that and more specific things to check, compress the suspension and hold each bearing/pivot area (only one on the rear, four on the front) and compress the suspension and feel for slight amounts of play, do the same with the upper and lower shock bushes (again front and rear), none of the bushes/bearings are particularly expensive, but if there's any play then they should be replaced.

    One to pay particular attention to is the rose bearing (or spherical) one on the front this can wear out in a very short amount of time, riding it will help, but it's important to setup the suspension properly, I work with about 1/4 compression at rest.

    Also look for excessive cable rub, there not expensive bikes to maintain, but can be if you take it to a shop, I have a couple of spherical bearings and there about a tenner a shot, I have also just replaced all my quad link bearings (PRST4) and there's 8 of them and they would have cost about (£45) but I would not expect these to go very often, shock bushes are only a few quid, again I have only replaced them once in the last few years.

    Hope it all works out, these are becoming rare and are now fetching reasonable money (considerably more than there Marin equivalents!)

    Lastly careful in granny ring, as the chain can jam on the chain stay if the running gear is not smooth
    -------------------------
    Whyte PRST 4
    EPX Terrashark
    Specialized Hardrock (Modified)

    -------------------------

  46. #46
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    Thanks Leshark.

    I have to say I'm looking forward to getting my hands (and feet!) on this beast. I've never been one to follow the herd in either my musical career or with the MTB's or the motorbike's I've owned.

    Out of interest, I found this http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...=STRK:MEWAX:IT
    And this http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...=STRK:MEWAX:IT
    On ebay at the weekend. Expected them to go for far more than the final price!

    Thanks again for the info.

    Andy

  47. #47
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    hi there just got another whyte prst1 and joined the forum.i had one before but didnt ride it much due to work commitments and sold it in a moment of weakness! found this one by accident while searching fleabay for parts for a kona build and it was only ten minutes down the road so rude not to have a bid! now im skint! a friend set the old one up for me so i am at a loss as to what pressures to run i have a fox pump in the post so wondering if anyone can shed some light on realistic starting point? i am 15 1/2 stone so a bit chunky! i am getting it down though so i am hoping for some sort of ballpark psi per stone estimate so i can lower the pressure as time goes on.finally got a job i can cycle commute so the future is bike shaped!!!

  48. #48
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    Hi All, been reading the thread as i have also just purchased a PRST1 Works special with Discs. What tyres work best for XC, my understanding is to go for a wider aggressive front tyre & a norrow less aggressive tread in the REAR, does this apply to the PRST1.

  49. #49
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    Hi all, I've just joined the forum and noticed the cracked frame around the main bearing of Andyhyde66's Whyte, had a look at mine and scared myself silly. I was out riding last night at warp-speed and hate to think what would have happened if it had let go. I think MTBR might have just saved me a trip to hospital! I hope ATB have got some stock left or I'm in the market for a new bike. I've already had a new frame and two new sets of forks, so the rear triangle, top link for the front forks and the steerer tube are the only original bits left of the original bike. Just for info, it isn't just the main frame that underwent a redesign, the plus fours were beefed up too to accomodate the additional strains of disc brakes. Mine curved backwards slightly at the bottom and showed fatigue cracks down the fronts of the legs. The pictures posted by leshark of the PRST-1 ans PRST-4 side by side show the differences at the bottom of the fork (more weld and gussetting on the -4)

  50. #50
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    At last!!! PRST-1 is in da house:-).

    Needs a damn good clean and is still only on loan until the owner and I finally agree on our PX deal.

    Quick question, does anyone know where I can get some spare bobbins for the big grippers? I've got a really nice set of spare wheels and it would be cool to have a set of wet weather and a set of dry weather wheels that can just drop straight in.

  51. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andy Dobson
    Quick question, does anyone know where I can get some spare bobbins for the big grippers? I've got a really nice set of spare wheels and it would be cool to have a set of wet weather and a set of dry weather wheels that can just drop straight in.

    Hi, I 2 years ago bought spare parts here:
    [email protected]

    bye
    "Walk softly and carry an armored tank division, I always say..."
    (Col. Nathan Jessup, "A Few Good Men", 1992)

  52. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by stevew510
    Hi All, been reading the thread as i have also just purchased a PRST1 Works special with Discs. What tyres work best for XC, my understanding is to go for a wider aggressive front tyre & a norrow less aggressive tread in the REAR, does this apply to the PRST1.
    Tire wise, typically I put a at least a 2.1 on the front and up to 2.3 if the terrain warrant it and on the back a 2.0 or 1.95 size. The Panaracer Fire XC pro is a good tire and won't cost an arm or leg and I have good experiance with it in loose pack and muddy conditions. Continential Race King is also a good tire with little rollin resistance and good grip. Tire choice is vary personal thing with variables like region, climate, riding style, soil type etc. so maybe its best to talk to the local bike shop to find out what tires riders in your areas like.

  53. #53
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    You could try ATB sales, they deal with Whyte and if the current big grippers are the same they'll be able to get you some.

  54. #54
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    Sorted.

    As it happens, one of my local shops is a Whyte dealer. Parts should be here tomorrow.

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    Hi, have just joined MTBR & thought I'd comment on this thread as I bought a second hand but immaculate PRST-4 a few days ago.
    A couple of things....
    1. How often should I get the front pivot joint of the front suspension serviced/greased?
    2. What's the best type/value air shock pump?
    3. Are there any known problems I should be looking out for?

    Thanks,
    CLockhart

  56. #56
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    These are cool! Anyone else out there have one? How is maintanence on them?

  57. #57
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    Hi there.
    I have one Prst-1 used but in good conditions, size L

    I SELL it because I own too many bikes (mc moho sts, turner burner, niner air9, a custom carbon 29er and a kona stinky)


    let me know about if interested
    superguzzAThotmailDOTcom


    thanks
    bye
    "Walk softly and carry an armored tank division, I always say..."
    (Col. Nathan Jessup, "A Few Good Men", 1992)

  58. #58
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    here is mine ,, has been a single speed for most of it's life,, then in the winter it gets an alfine


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    forgot to say it also runs a 24 inch front wheel,, as I think it needs more weight /grip on the front

  60. #60
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    That's nice! I want one. Couldn't you dial that out with different bar, stem and shock pressures.

  61. #61
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    possibly but it was at the time a quick thing to try out ,, it worked so well that all my prestons have had a 24 inch front wheel

  62. #62
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    Right on! Do you have pictures of more of them? How do you like the ride. I'm about 5'9" tall, what size do you think would be best for me?

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  64. #64
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    Nice bikes! What size do you think for me at 5'9"?

  65. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mountain Cycle Shawn View Post
    Nice bikes! What size do you think for me at 5'9"?
    Hi Shawn i am 5.10 and used to ride a 16" preston that one was stolen and was given an 18 to replace it ,,

    i prefered my 16 as you felt more in the bike than on it,, the top tube was short which ment a longer stem ont he 18 I run a shorter stem,,

    actualy i run a short high stem rather than the std 5 deg rise stem with the massive long std steerer , this is needed to clear the top link of the suspension but my short high stem does the job without the long steerer

  66. #66
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    anyone on here an expert on PRST's i bought a whyte prst-1 works edition and i have some question about my new bike. the bike shops around here don't seem to know s*** about it and tell me if it brakes your f***ed.. i feel like they are angry i didn't a new bike from them...

    i want to know if their is any upgradable parts and where to buy parts if i need them, and what is the max pressure the fox float r shocks can handle. i'm 260lbs what should i put in the front and back.

    right now i bottoming out the rear if i go off curbs, and thats fine for now but i'm going to want more from it sooner or later.

  67. #67
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    you should be able to get parts from your local Marin or whyte dealer,,
    as for setting up the suspension both ends should sag 25-30 % of the shock travel with you on it,,
    good luck with it

    i have three of them

  68. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by ade ward View Post
    i have three of them
    You have 1 to many and I have none!

  69. #69
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    650b?

    That gives me an idea, would it make sense running a 650b on the rear do you think?
    Quote Originally Posted by ade ward View Post
    possibly but it was at the time a quick thing to try out ,, it worked so well that all my prestons have had a 24 inch front wheel

  70. #70
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    Hi Bertie, there are only two differences between the PRST1 & 4 the four has a gusset at the top, but more importantly, the 1 was hand welded in the cotswalds (sounds great eh) where'as the 4 is robot welded in Taiwan, both exactly the same weight, but unfortunatly the hand welding was far inferior to the more precise robot welding, the early PRST1's suffered badly from frame breaks, the later ones not so bad, but I have not heard of any 4's breaking, the toggle for the big gripper is more sculptured on the 4 which give the impression of the lower being more bulky, hope you get the parts you need, remember the rear triangle is the same as several Marins, which were sold in much larger numbers, so I hope you get it back into order, as its still one of my favorite bikes for long treks!
    -------------------------
    Whyte PRST 4
    EPX Terrashark
    Specialized Hardrock (Modified)

    -------------------------

  71. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by leshark View Post
    Hi Bertie, there are only two differences between the PRST1 & 4 the four has a gusset at the top, but more importantly, the 1 was hand welded in the cotswalds (sounds great eh) where'as the 4 is robot welded in Taiwan, both exactly the same weight, but unfortunatly the hand welding was far inferior to the more precise robot welding, the early PRST1's suffered badly from frame breaks, the later ones not so bad, but I have not heard of any 4's breaking, the toggle for the big gripper is more sculptured on the 4 which give the impression of the lower being more bulky, hope you get the parts you need, remember the rear triangle is the same as several Marins, which were sold in much larger numbers, so I hope you get it back into order, as its still one of my favorite bikes for long treks!
    This is not actualy true , there were only 4 prototypes built in the Cotswolds , everything else was made in the apro factory in Taiwan ,
    The 1 had a very different swiningarm that came under the bb ,the rest had versions of Marin stuff

  72. #72
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    Mine needs a new spherical bearing. Have you or anyone on here still got a spare?

  73. #73
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    Hi all I'm new here from the uk.
    Just to say I bought a prst1 frame last summer and have just finished building with some lovely new components,once I figure how to post pics you will see mine

  74. #74
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    Store them at photobucket.com then copy and paste the img code, it's really easy.

  75. #75
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    I can't.it says I have to post ten times before I can post pics.how silly

  76. #76
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    I have managed to buy a spare prst-1 frame.i think I'm going to try fit a different swing arm on it.i wonder if a whyte 46 will fit.i know a jw arm will fit as there is a prst1 on eBay with one fitted.

  77. #77
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    Start posting!

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    Hi there.
    Is there any one out there with a prst4 or alike rear end

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    Another PRST-4 owner checking in.

    Just acquired a JW-4 frame to go along side it in the stable; unfortunately this one was sans-shocks. Any suggestions on where I can buy/obtain replacements?

    front: 165mm x 38mm
    rear: 160mm x 35mm

    Suitable shocks for the front (i.e. Fox Vanilla R) pop up occasionally on Ebay but its the rear shock that's stumping me. Was this a custom shock for these bikes?

  80. #80
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    X Fusion - like fox but cheaper!

    A 165mm on both front and rear is what i have. I've just upgraded from a fox float to a X Fusion O2-RC (with pro-pedal adjust) on the rear and am very pleased with it. Got it off ebay for £50ish, cant say fairer than that!

    Basically any 165mm shock will suffice, tho they say coil is better on the front but air is better for the rear. However my vanilla bottomed out a bit on the front and its small bump compliance was nothing special, moving the float from the rear to the front resolved both these issues.

    Quote Originally Posted by ach1000 View Post
    Another PRST-4 owner checking in.

    Just acquired a JW-4 frame to go along side it in the stable; unfortunately this one was sans-shocks. Any suggestions on where I can buy/obtain replacements?

    front: 165mm x 38mm
    rear: 160mm x 35mm

    Suitable shocks for the front (i.e. Fox Vanilla R) pop up occasionally on Ebay but its the rear shock that's stumping me. Was this a custom shock for these bikes?

  81. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by killerisation View Post
    A 165mm on both front and rear is what i have. I've just upgraded from a fox float to a X Fusion O2-RC (with pro-pedal adjust) on the rear and am very pleased with it. Got it off ebay for £50ish, cant say fairer than that!

    Basically any 165mm shock will suffice, tho they say coil is better on the front but air is better for the rear. However my vanilla bottomed out a bit on the front and its small bump compliance was nothing special, moving the float from the rear to the front resolved both these issues.
    Sir, you are completely correct; its 165mm front and back. This makes life considerably easier (unfortunately it also means the rear shock on my PRST-4 needs servicing, sigh).

    Do you still have the Fox Vanilla? Out of curiosity what spring where you using?
    Last edited by ach1000; 08-03-2012 at 01:35 AM.

  82. #82
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    I sold the vanilla. dunno what spring it was im afraid.
    Considering your rear shock should compress around 10mm just due to sag then i dont think you've got any serious problems with it.

    Quote Originally Posted by ach1000 View Post
    Sir, you are completely correct; its 165mm front and back. This makes life considerably easier (unfortunately it also means the rear shock on my PRST-4 needs servicing, sigh).

    Do you still have the Fox Vanilla? Out of curiosity what spring where you using?

  83. #83
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    Just seen this incase it helps anyone and did a quick search to find out about this oddity.
    WHYTE PRST-1 X-Country Mountain Bike Warborough - OX10

  84. #84
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    Hello all, great page and really useful to learn about my WHYTE PRST-1, here she is, had her about a month and sits nice in my collection...all get ridden.


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    Have to admit I'm a bit worried about the frame cracking issue on these 2nd generation PRST-1 but it will never get airbourne

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    That gusset should stop the cracking issue. From the fact that there are no visible paint chips it looks like this has pretty much never been ridden! You've done well. If upgrading anything go for disc brakes first, though it looks like you'd need new wheels for that, so seeing as you're not doing anything too extreme then you can probably just stick with what you've got.

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    Just tagging onto this awesome thread about the Whyte PRST-1. I purchased a 2001 off Ebay and have been riding it for 13 years with minimal modifications. I am finally ready to sell this unique bike, and it will be hard to see it go...I am just ready for disc brakes and 29" wheels!! I have absolutely NO IDEA what this bike is worth these days, so we'll see if I get any bites on Craigslist. Glad to hear that so many others have had great experiences with theirs. Absolutely right that this thing steers like no other bike I have ridden.

  88. #88
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    Any Whyte PRST-1, 4 Owners Out there?-img_1045.jpgAny Whyte PRST-1, 4 Owners Out there?-img_1044.jpgHey guys,
    Well I am now an owner of a Whyte prst-1, I always loved the look of these bikes, I seen one pop up on ebay and I think I just blanked out and put an offer on it and the seller accepted, so that means I paid too much. But its cool and I love it. I seem to be collecting all the bikes I could never buy when I was younger.

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    Just bought a PRST-1 Works Special

    Hi guys,I used to own a JW2. I thought it was perfect for light xc with the front suspension very smooth and reacts to the smallest bumps.You don't get that with normal forks.

    So i invested in a PRST-1 Works Special. I was looking for an original one with not too many miles on.I found this one with a few upgrades.i'm looking to change it back to the original spec for the Works Special.Do any of you know what the O.E. spec was?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Any Whyte PRST-1, 4 Owners Out there?-whyte-prst-works-special.jpg  

    Any Whyte PRST-1, 4 Owners Out there?-whyte-prst1.jpg  


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    Try this. Page 22.
    Tip: dont convert it back to v-brakes.

    Quote Originally Posted by LEE MC View Post
    Hi guys,I used to own a JW2. I thought it was perfect for light xc with the front suspension very smooth and reacts to the smallest bumps.You don't get that with normal forks.

    So i invested in a PRST-1 Works Special. I was looking for an original one with not too many miles on.I found this one with a few upgrades.i'm looking to change it back to the original spec for the Works Special.Do any of you know what the O.E. spec was?

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    Hi all
    Just bought a Prst 4 ? The fella on eBay called it a whyte jw 4 , anyway I collect it tomorrow can't wait , I know nothing about them other than what I've read on tinterweb , but saw it and thought that is the mutts nuts paid £470 don't know if it's a good price or not ? Has anyone got any ideas as to what upgrades to do or is stock the way to go?

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    Love it !!

  93. #93
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    Hey guys,
    That seems like a good price, I just sold mine a few months ago for 1,300.00. witch is good because I paid too much also, so it worked out for me. didn't want to sell it but I had to let it go too get something else I wanted more.

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    It may well be a JW-4. The last bikes were a bit of a mix of parts.

    Both use the same frame triangle upper and lower wishbones and general geometry, the differences were in the components, and the bits at the ends of the frames;

    JW-4 has the tubular fork with standard Quick Release dropouts. The rear swingarm takes standard dropouts too. The PRST-4 uses a fabricated fork and has "Big Gripper" dropouts.

    If you're building up from a bare frame there's little choice between the two, both will serve you well. The big grippers are nice to have, and the fabricated fork of the more expensive bike adds to the look, but when riding I suspect you'd never know the difference.

    JW-4 / PRST-4 frames use rather more bearings than the single pivot JW-2 / PRST-1, which makes replacement a bit more expensive, however it's worth doing, since sticky bearings ruin the feel of the frame.

    The single most essential upgrades I've found are lightweight wheels, which allow that front end to work more effectively, and a pair of up to date shocks with selectable damping characteristics. This allows you run the right sag without blowing through all the travel when you hit the brakes.

    I am the happy owner of two of these fine bikes. Love them to bits.


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    My prst-1 had the big gripper drop outs.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hank Moody View Post
    My prst-1 had the big gripper drop outs.
    The PRST1 was where the big gripper made its debut. Interestingly, Whyte have only recently phased the big gripper out in favour of the quick release through axle designs now common on new MTB's. Of course since the PRST / JW bikes ceased manufacture, they were only able to offer it on the rear of their bikes...

    The JW2, which was introduced as a "budget" version of the PRST-1, did without the big gripper, utilising instead a tubular fork at the front and the rear swingarm from the Marin range of MTB's, which were also a Jon Whyte design. The same thing happened on the PRST-4 / JW4 redesign, when the more sophisticated quad link "virtual pivot point"setup was adopted from the Marin's of the time. The PRST-4 got a bespoke swingarm, the JW-4 got one from the Marin parts bin. Geometry is identical, the big grippers are the only meaningful difference.

    Big gripper "bobbins" and axles are still available from Whyte, although only in rear axle size. It's easy enough to convert them though, simply run a die nut of the correct size (I think it's an M6) down the supplied axle and then cut off the excess to match your existing front axle. The rear derailleur hanger is also still freely available, since it was incorporated into a far wider range than the PRST's.

    What is not available from Whyte are any spare parts of note. Wishbones are all gone, with perhaps a fork or two still still kicking around the warehouse. When I spoke to them last year they had just built the "final" PRST-4 to take to trade shows etc. since it still pulls a crowd even now.

    There's also little in the way of information. Paint codes are a mystery, the best Whyte could do was tell me that it was a Mercedes colour on the PRST-4, and that the actual colours had some very wide variation on the finished bikes. The graphics used on the frames are similarly not available. The original artwork was probably paper based, and lost in the move between factories some time ago. This is problematic if you want to restore your bike to its former glory and want to use the original water slide decals.

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    It is indeed a jw4 I much prefer the look of the forks on yours . Both shocks on mine are X Fusion 02 R do you know if these are any good? What's the difference between std drop out and big gripper . Forgive all my questions but I'm not clued up at all on the technical side of biking .

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    I know nothing of of X-fusion, other than they are a budget brand of suspension components.

    Personally, I'd upgrade to something a bit more modern to take advantage of some the fairly major leaps in technology that have occurred since Whyte discontinued these bikes, since the suspension design is uniquely place to take maximum advantage of them. A pair of 165mm Fox shocks like the float RP23 work very well indeed, and are leagues ahead of the old float R's that I removed from my bikes.

    The Big gripper was a design that used two 20mm diameter "bobbins" that were bolted to the axles of a pair of normal wheels. These were then clamped into the bike with large hinged clamps on the frame and forks, and were a alternative way of gaining big increases in stiffness without resorting to through axles, which were pretty rare and expensive downhill racing parts when the PRST first came out. It's a clever design, and nice to have, but it's not essential by any means. You can't "upgrade" to big grippers with changing to a PRST frame, so it's a moot point anyway. Buy yourself a set of light wheels instead. I have a set of Spinergy's and Some Mavic's to choose from on mine, the original Hope wheels now live on my electric Hardtail. By far and away my favourite wheels for this bike are my Crank Brothers Cobalts, which share the "engineering oddity" of the PRST frame... I only wish I'd bought a pair in black...


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    They suit the bike very well . 1st on the list will be the shocks I think then think about some wheels , thanks for your advice really appreciate it .

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    Quote Originally Posted by Robbo73 View Post
    They suit the bike very well . 1st on the list will be the shocks I think then think about some wheels , thanks for your advice really appreciate it .
    Don't forget the bearings. There's two main types. The Swingarm and front wishbone bearings use a KP6A type which is usually pretty reliable. It was originally designed as a bearing for aircraft control surfaces. That might seem to be a bit if of a long way from a bicycle, but since both ailerons and swing arms have a limited range of motion and need to be sting, hard wearing and light, it's an inspired choice.

    Once the shocks are off then it's easy to feel if any are tight or rough in operation.

    The joker in the pack is the spherical bearing in the steering. It's a plain spherical bearing type PBA, size 10. However, there's a multitude of manufacturers, materials, and load ratings.

    Buy a cheap one and you'll get 6 weeks out if if you're lucky. The loading on the bearing is in the "wrong" direction, so it needs to be something special. I will be using flouro.de bearings in my bikes this year. The standard series PBA10 "GL" can cope with 7.5kN of axial load. That should be plenty, but sadly the cheaper bearings seem to fail due to the grit and crud that gets in them. The "GLRSW" spec is made from stainless steel, and is rated for loads over three times higher. That's what I'll be buying.

    Finally, if you're to have any confidence at all in the steering, don't forget to strip and rebuild the headset. It does very little actual work on a PRST, at least compared to normal bikes, but if it's worn or sticky, the steering really really suffers. It needs to be silky smooth so that it doesn't add to much stiction to that already supplied by the spherical bearing below it.

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    Wow you really know your stuff , I've got an engineering friend who repairs/makes alsorts of Rams and the like so hopefully he will be able to sort me out , just checked out the gl one you suggested are they German made ?

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    Yes, see this link.

    http://www.fluro.de/index.php/en/pro...plain-bearings

    Remember though, GL is the lighter duty bearing. I'd go for the heavy duty stainless steel version.

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    Don't all call me an idiot at once but could I change the rear and front shock to a 190 eye to eye to get extra stroke ? Or would the 22mm extra screw the bikes geometry up completely ?

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    That would give you a c. 5.3" travel at the rear end. However, it would lift the rear end up by about 2.5", ruining the geometry of the rear suspension, making pedal induced oscillations about a million times worse, and steepening the headtube angle (or its equivalent on the PRST/JW front end by a degree that will really badly affect the steering.

    The effect of extra shock length at the front would definitely ruin the suspension action, that amount of extra extension at the front would push the fork down and forward, and remove much of the vertical element of the suspension movement in initial compression. The "J shaped stroke" would be exacerbated with a very long horizontal component before the real bump absorption could kick in. The effect of this changing wheelbase on stability can only be guessed at, but my guess would be that it wouldn't be good...

    My suggestion would be to buy a decent shock that allows a greater degree of wheel control over the design travel. And then tune it properly. It is possible to tune the spring rate on air shocks for heavier or more brutal riders so that they don't blow through all the travel by reducing the air volume so that the pressure ramps up higher and faster. Fox sell kits to do this, but it's a very easy mod to do yourself with basic tools. Many people don't realise that they are running out of travel not because there's not enough travel, but because thier shocks are knackered.

    If you think you actually need 5" or 6" of travel, then I think you might be on the wrong bike!

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    In no way do I need that much travel , the hardest trail the bike will do is Dalby Forest red. I'm currently on the lookout for 2x fox rp 23 ? I've been told they are a good upgrade for my bike .

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    Fox RP23's work a treat, and are now freely available second hand.

    The platform damping and especially the boost valve technologies work a treat over the standard fixed damping of the original shocks. The boost valve increases the compression damping at the top of the shock stroke, and the ProPedal platform damping adds significant compression damping throughout the range, giving a halfway house between open damping and a lock out function. Tuned properly, this greatly reduces the dive under braking.

    RP series shocks like the RP23 were available in a vast series of base damping and boost valve tunes that are not user adjustable, so it's a bit of a lottery what you get second hand. Fortunately, aftermarket tuners like TFTuned can change these to suit the leverage ratio and travel of the bike and the rider wieght. Just tell them what you want it's a dead cert that you'll gain huge improvements over the old Fox Float R / Vanilla shocks that were originally fitted to PRST's.

    Shocks need regular servicing anyway, so it's an inevitable cost of ownership if you want to keep your bike working properly. TFTuned service RP23's for £93, or you can go all out and have custom profiled PUSH internals for £143.

    Essential, and well worth it...


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    Any Whyte PRST-1, 4 Owners Out there?-image.jpgAny Whyte PRST-1, 4 Owners Out there?-image.jpg

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    Any Whyte PRST-1, 4 Owners Out there?-image.jpg

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    That's a very clean example. I think a new set of shocks would definitely be a worthwhile investment for it. These bikes are, let's face it, ALL about the suspension. They're not exactly lookers, so it pays to ensure that their sole USP works as intended.

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    I'm planning to repaint (actually, I'm going to powdercoat, it's much tougher) my two PRST's. I'm currently photographing and tracing all the decals on my PRST-4, with a view to getting some of the proper "water slide" decals re-manufactured for both my frames. I've tried every aftermarket seller out there, and no-one I've found can offer the proper graphics kit for these bikes. Whyte lost the original artwork ages ago, so it's a case of copying what I already have.




    Just wondered, would anyone else be interested in a set?

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    Ive just changed the tyres and pedals today and what do you mean there not exactly lookers ?? The looks are the reason I bought it I love it. I've had some serious thoughts on stripping and powder coating but was thinking of a complete change , there is a jw2 on eBay at the mo and I love what he has done paint wise but don't think it would be for everyone . I also really like the look of your forks , is there anywhere I could get some from ?

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    What do I mean? Well, just look at it! It's certainly eye-catching, but it's not what you'd call aesthetically appealing in any conventional sense. It's rumoured to have been named after Preston, the robot dog from the Wallace & Gromit films, and he was certainly no looker himself;


    It's also been compared to the praying mantis;


    No, beauty may be in the eye of the beholder, but most beholders will be hard pressed to say it's actually good looking...

    However, if you're in any way interested in engineering you'll be able to appreciate that these bikes have a certain purity in they way they function. Jon Whyte clearly eschewed the aesthetics in favour of the dynamics and kinematics when he came up with the design and as any engineer will tell you, if it works, that's a beauty in itself. The JW-2 with the burgundy and magazine clipping paint job on eBay at the moment though? That might be stretching the premise a bit to far...

    The monocoque front forks on the PRST's came in two types. The PRST-1 had bosses for V-brakes, and an adapter was available to mount iS disc brakes. the PRST-4 did away with the brake bosses (EDIT: It seems I was wrong, some early PRST-4's did have the bosses for v brakes.), and had the IS disc mount built in, since by the time the quad link bike came out, no "premium" bike could be seen dead wearing anything other than a set of shiny discs.

    As for finding a set? Best of luck. Whyte don't have any, but they do pop up on eBay or on sites like retrobike every now and then when someone breaks a cracked frame for parts, but they're expensive and very rare. Your best bet is wait for a spare frameset to come up for sale and "upgrade" to the PRST. Given that you have a decent bike already, I don't think it's worth the bother.

    That said, the plus fours fork is an interesting thing to look at. It's basically four sheets of aluminium that have been beaten to shape and seam welded. It wieghs almost nothing, but seems to be extraordinarily stiff once it has a wheel in it.




    Last edited by Londoner; 01-14-2015 at 11:11 AM.

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    Ha ha like you say it's deffo a marmite bike !! , I'm changing my crank to a double (trivativ Hussfelt ) hoping as it's the same make as the one on the bike it will fit straight on ,but have been told I might need to change from 8 speed cassette to 9 or 10 and also change the chain do you have any experience with this ?

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    There's been significant evolution in bicycle transmission since these bikes were built. 8 speed stuff is decidedly old hat these days, and usually only found on bargain basement models. The chains are slightly wider than the 9 or 10 speed chains your new chainwheels are designed for. Running an 8 speed chain over a 9 speed chainwheel "might" work, you'll just have to try it.

    You may find you need a different bottom bracket for your new cranks too.

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    Have you had any experience taking the crank off ? I've removed the 2 x 8mm Alan key bolts but the tool to remove the crank I borrowed has nothing to push against , do they just need a bit of persuading with a hammer ?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Robbo73 View Post
    Have you had any experience taking the crank off ? I've removed the 2 x 8mm Alan key bolts but the tool to remove the crank I borrowed has nothing to push against , do they just need a bit of persuading with a hammer ?
    You need a crank extractor. Hammering it will damage it, and potentially the frame too.

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    New Decals. No one makes 'em, so I'm doing my own...

    I traced this from the frame;


    And then learned how to redraw it in Photoshop;




    I think I might be here a while. That one decal took me four hours, but since I'd never used photoshop before (it's fiendishly complicated), I'm hoping the remaining decals don't take as long.

    Now I've done it though, I'm tempted to update to the modern Whyte logo, and replace the "monocoque construction" tag above this decal with the modern "performance by design" tag line instead.

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    Getting there... I even found the right font for the "monocoque construction" text.

    Wonder what a PRST finished in chrome would look like?



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    Looking good :-) reckon chrome would look good but how much ?

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    Took my jw4 to Dalby Forest last week after converting to a 2x 9 speed and a fox rp23 on the rear the bike performed really well if you have ridden Dalby red route you will know it's quite a tough ride . My back brake gave up half way round obviously needs a bleed or burp . But other than that I was very impressed with my bike considering its 10 yrs old and was riding with bikes 1 of which cost over 5k . I probably should know the answer to this but does my bike use mineral oil or dot ?

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    Depends on what brakes you have fitted. What are they?

    PRST's all came with Hope brakes, which use DOT 4 or DOT 5.1, but the JW-4 may use Shimano or magura brakes which use mineral oil.

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    Mine are Julie Madura

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    Magura even

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    Magura use their own mineral oil, Magura Royal Blood. It's not that expensive, although if you're willing to dig out the specs you'll find compatible oils that are cheaper. Don't use DOT fluid.

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    Hey all

    I'm currently bidding on a Prst 1 works special frame on eBay , I own a Jw-4 and was wondering which frame is the better of the 2 , I know these frames are rare so how much would be a good price ?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Robbo73 View Post
    Hey all

    I'm currently bidding on a Prst 1 works special frame on eBay , I own a Jw-4 and was wondering which frame is the better of the 2 , I know these frames are rare so how much would be a good price ?
    I'd go with the JW-4

    The '1's swingarm is very stiff, but it's a bit heavier, and is an earlier & less sophisticated single pivot rather than the virtual pivot point on your JW-4. It also gets caught on rocks etc, falls victim to chain rash far more than the swingarm on the '4. Everything else is pretty much the same as your JW-4.

    That said, the frame on eBay looks to be in decent nick, and comes with the all important disc brake mounts. There's only two key points to consider if you go for it;

    1/ Early frames had a habit of cracking at the stress point where top tube joins the down tube.

    2/ That frame looks to be a small or medium size.

    As for value? Anywhere from £300 to £600. Depends upon how much people want them at the time. I bought a whole PRST-4 for £300, and a year later bought a spare frame for just under £400. I've seen them sell for far more (£1800!), and far less...

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    Wasn't going to pay anymore than £200 , if I get it for that with what you say I will set it up for road use , what is the difference in quality between a jw and a Prst to have such a price difference when new ?

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    Quality? Not much in terms of the bits you're looking to buy from ebay.

    The price difference was all in the components fitted (as well as what Whyte thought the market would stand for a premium MTB). Cheap(er) shocks, gears, cranks, seatpost, saddle, bars, brakes wheels, tyres, controls etc. we're fitted to the JW's when compared to the PRST. But, you won't be getting any of those bits...

    In terms of the frameset, JW models used rear swing arms from the Marin parts bin rather than the bespoke items with big grippers fitted to the PRST. The front fork is a simpler, and thus much cheaper to make, tubular affair instead of the complex monocoque on the PRST. In terms of frames there's little in it. The geometry is roughly the same, but it's worth considering that the JW-4 you have already is the result of the development and maturation of this original PRST design. Of the two, it's probably the superior frame, but obviously it lacks whatever value you would personally put on it being a "real" PRST.

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    Anyone after a PRST-4?

    Theres a pretty nice one on eBay, size large, (20.5" from bottom bracket to the top of the seat tube). Good for riders from 5'9" ish to Giants. I've got a pair of large frames and they accommodate me (6'4") and my wife (5'9") without issue...

    This particular bike appears to be wearing its original wheelset and shocks and of course it's Hope brakes. It's got scratches that look like they'd polish out with a bit of elbow grease, and it's very unusual in being the first PRST-4 I've ever seen with bosses for V-brakes. Neither of my frames (one early, one later) have them...

    Absolutely not my bike, and bugger all to do with me, although I imagine that owner will probably thank me for the free ad. I did consider buying it for spares, but these things need to be owned and used by proper enthusiasts.

    You can find it here;

    http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item...d=151549956820


    There's also a PRST-1 frame in the U.S., priced at just under £900;
    http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item...d=391023157578

    A complete PRST-1 bike that's been listed poorly on eBay, in need of a front sprocket and rear brake. About £600.
    http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item...d=131402129156

    And, the newsprint and burgundy JW2 is still on sale, for £1000.
    http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item...d=301475120469

  130. #130
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    Hi, if you need to replace the spherical bearing (I do a lot of Welsh mountain rides on mine) I have just bought a job lot and intend to sell half of them looking for £7.50 a shot, they are IKO PB10's (as originally fitted by Whyte) and now selling for over £15 by retailers, cheers Rich
    -------------------------
    Whyte PRST 4
    EPX Terrashark
    Specialized Hardrock (Modified)

    -------------------------

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    Just aquiered a prst 1 and I'm just in the process of stripping it to get powder coated, but struggling to remove the headset, I have taken the bars and stem off but have no clue how to get the rest out?

  132. #132
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    Headset cup removal

    Quote Originally Posted by Robbo73 View Post
    Just aquiered a prst 1 and I'm just in the process of stripping it to get powder coated, but struggling to remove the headset, I have taken the bars and stem off but have no clue how to get the rest out?
    There are specialist tool for it (£15) but if your gentle with a beefy screwdriver and hammer you can tap out each cup from the opposite side, working round the cup, if you look on YouTube I'm sure there are many videos
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    Whyte PRST 4
    EPX Terrashark
    Specialized Hardrock (Modified)

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  133. #133
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    Thanks Leshark for the info, after looking at the tool (Halfords wanted £20 for) one of the lads at work made me one from 25mm ERW which worked a treat. So now the bike is fully disassembled, sanded and I'm just having the rim break mounts removed😱😱, as for frame colour I'm undecided, I own a jw4 which is standard apart from converting to a 1x11 now, so was thinking of completely different paint on the prst1.

  134. #134
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    I vote doing the frame one colour and the fork and rear triangle another (brighter) colour.

    Sent from my LG-D801 using Tapatalk

  135. #135
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    yeah I thought about that, I never intended selling the bike so guess I don't need to worry about upsetting the purists, I figure if you like these bikes you like something different?

  136. #136
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    Finally I am now the proud owner of a PRST-4 chuffed is an understatement, just had it in for a service and every thing is fine. Just need to fit new grips and change the pedals from clip in. Going to leave it totally standard. Still got my PRST-1 to paint and rebuild, would be good to see some pictures of peopleís bikes on here.

  137. #137
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    I'd really bring the PRST 1 up to date if I were you. A 1x drivetrain with a clutch derailer should sort out the chainsuck issues and maybe even reduce pedal bob. Also, I've always wanted to try running a 650b wheel on the rear as it always lost a lot of momentum when going thru rough stuff, and the fork worked better with a slightly steeper head angle too.

  138. #138
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    I think Iíve bought your old PRST-1 Robbo !!!

  139. #139
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    [QUOTE=Karn72;13816130]I think Iíve bought your old PRST-1 Robbo !!

    Really? Sold it on eBay a few weeks back,hope it was what you where expecting. Iíve just been flicking through this thread, I didnít remember having the rim break mounting brackets removed.

  140. #140
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    Yeah thatís the one.
    Spent the last week or so sorting through the bits to see what was missing ! ;-)
    I donít think there are too many parts that canít be sourced or made up relatively cheaply.

    Iíve decided to turn it into a 1x11 which should bring it up to date and stop the chain suck issues that they suffer from.
    Iíve been running my current one for the last couple of weeks on just the middle ring and although I spin out on the road sections it should be fine for the majority of riding I do.

    The spare bits will go back on eBay to pay for it! Out of curiosity, how did you end up with 4 fox floats ?!

    Currently getting prices for powder coating and getting my father in law to digitise the decals.
    Facing the dilemma of applying original decals, PRST-4 decals, modern type face, or a mixture of the above.

    Also weighing up the options for the suspension. RP23s or monarch RT3?
    The RP23s seem to be pretty hard to come by on eBay these days and would probably need refurbs, meaning that each one would end up costing about £150

    Alternatively brand new RT3 on chain reaction for £195

    Has anyone had any experience with the RT3s ? Is second hand but tunes to the bike better than new out of the box ?

    Only problem Iíve come across so far is a rattle in the rear swing arm (I think a bit of dirt or metal has fallen through on of the vent holes and is making a hell of a racket!)
    Not sure how Iím going to solve that one !!

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