OneUp Dropper V2- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    OneUp Dropper V2

    Just a place to post to differentiate models.

    https://www.oneupcomponents.com/coll...ropper-post-v2

  2. #2
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    So is the cable actuation the same as V1? ie the outer cable sheath is used to actuate the mech

  3. #3
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    OneUp,

    Your webpage for the V2 states "Compatibility: not compatible with all low shock style Santa Cruz bicycles". Depending on how I read this it's either all lower link SC bikes are out, or only some are out.

    Furthermore, some of your promo shots show the V2 on what looks to be a Megatower. Bottom line: is the V2 compatible with the Megatower?

    Thanks.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Big AC View Post
    OneUp,

    Your webpage for the V2 states "Compatibility: not compatible with all low shock style Santa Cruz bicycles". Depending on how I read this it's either all lower link SC bikes are out, or only some are out.

    Furthermore, some of your promo shots show the V2 on what looks to be a Megatower. Bottom line: is the V2 compatible with the Megatower?

    Thanks.
    Also interested to know the answer to this but for the Nomad 4. Why would it not be compatible?

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Big AC View Post
    OneUp,

    Your webpage for the V2 states "Compatibility: not compatible with all low shock style Santa Cruz bicycles". Depending on how I read this it's either all lower link SC bikes are out, or only some are out.

    Furthermore, some of your promo shots show the V2 on what looks to be a Megatower. Bottom line: is the V2 compatible with the Megatower?

    Thanks.
    Quote Originally Posted by Snap4130 View Post
    Also interested to know the answer to this but for the Nomad 4. Why would it not be compatible?
    The new low shock style Santa Cruz bikes have tube-in-tube dropper routing that is so tight that you can't get the 4mm of housing movement required for proper feeling operation. It is only SC bikes that we know to be a problem.

    We are working on a retrofitable option that will be rolled in once available. The Megatower in the press release is testing that system (it belongs to our sales manager).

    Sorry for any confusion.

  6. #6
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    Very cool post love the adjustment and longer options. Curious, could the new shims be cut in half and used to make a 180 into 175?


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    Quote Originally Posted by OneUp View Post
    The new low shock style Santa Cruz bikes have tube-in-tube dropper routing that is so tight that you can't get the 4mm of housing movement required for proper feeling operation. It is only SC bikes that we know to be a problem.

    We are working on a retrofitable option that will be rolled in once available. The Megatower in the press release is testing that system (it belongs to our sales manager).

    Sorry for any confusion.
    How does it work on frames that clamp the cable outer?

    I'd seen some people mention it's the cable outer that actuates the post but just thought they had it set up wrong as it didn't make much sense.

    Can you explain why the outer needs 4mm movement for it to work? Interested to know how it works, love the idea of a post with that much drop and considering whether to hold on until you get it sorted. I've just bought a Nomad 4 frame to build up and need a new post for it, do you know when the option will be available?

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Snap4130 View Post
    How does it work on frames that clamp the cable outer?

    I'd seen some people mention it's the cable outer that actuates the post but just thought they had it set up wrong as it didn't make much sense.

    Can you explain why the outer needs 4mm movement for it to work? Interested to know how it works, love the idea of a post with that much drop and considering whether to hold on until you get it sorted. I've just bought a Nomad 4 frame to build up and need a new post for it, do you know when the option will be available?
    The SC low shock is the only frame where we've seen an issue. On that bike the housing exits the tube-in-tube 1-3" from the bottom of the post. Normally the 4mm is easily achieved with the tiniest bit of slack housing (even when the housing is clamped further away). We are actually double checking the Nomad 4 because we've have a bunch of people tell us it's fine. The Bronson and Megatower are definitely troublesome so we assumed the Nomad 4 too. I'll update here and online once we've confirmed.

  9. #9
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    FWIW: When WolfTooth came out with their cable remote conversion for the Reverb, which also uses the housing displacement, I mentioned to them that many SC CF frames would be a problem due to the way SC's internal dropper cable guide tube would constrain the housing/cable. They said they were sure it wouldn't be a problem.
    Do the math.

  10. #10
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    Hopefully, there's a fix for the SC bikes. I was planning on replacing the stock Reverb on my Megatower with a 210mm OneUp post.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by OneUp View Post
    The new low shock style Santa Cruz bikes have tube-in-tube dropper routing that is so tight that you can't get the 4mm of housing movement required for proper feeling operation. It is only SC bikes that we know to be a problem.

    We are working on a retrofitable option that will be rolled in once available. The Megatower in the press release is testing that system (it belongs to our sales manager).

    Sorry for any confusion.
    Thanks for the information, is it possible to get a rough ETA for the retrofitable solution?

    Quote Originally Posted by jeremy3220 View Post
    Hopefully, there's a fix for the SC bikes. I was planning on replacing the stock Reverb on my Megatower with a 210mm OneUp post.
    If I remember correctly for the MT thread youíll be on an XXL. As the distance from the exit of the tube in tube to the actuator of the post might be longer due to the length of the seat tube you might get enough slack to make it worth, might (even getting some slack in the housing might not solve the issue). Hopefully OU can get a working retrofitable solution out soon as a 210mm post on a XXL MT sounds great.

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    Quote Originally Posted by OneUp View Post
    The SC low shock is the only frame where we've seen an issue. On that bike the housing exits the tube-in-tube 1-3" from the bottom of the post. Normally the 4mm is easily achieved with the tiniest bit of slack housing (even when the housing is clamped further away). We are actually double checking the Nomad 4 because we've have a bunch of people tell us it's fine. The Bronson and Megatower are definitely troublesome so we assumed the Nomad 4 too. I'll update here and online once we've confirmed.
    Thanks for explaining it. It's the Nomad 4 CC frame in XL that i have that i'm looking to get the dropper for, if you are able to confirm if it would work it would be much appreciated.

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    I want to know about the actuation in the V2 as well. I Just got a V1 post and honestly it actuates like trash compared to other droppers. The slack in the lever during use feels low quality. The whole point of housing is for the low friction movement of the cable within, not to move the housing.

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    Quote Originally Posted by scyrway View Post
    The whole point of housing is for the low friction movement of the cable within, not to move the housing.
    It's all relative. If the housing isn't constrained such that the post end of the housing can move 4mm freely, there's no difference between thinking it's the cable moving in the housing or the housing moving on the cable, and low friction smooth movement between the housing and cable will have the same beneficial effect.
    Do the math.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Lone Rager View Post
    It's all relative. If the housing isn't constrained such that the post end of the housing can move 4mm freely, there's no difference between thinking it's the cable moving in the housing or the housing moving on the cable, and low friction smooth movement between the housing and cable will have the same beneficial effect.
    Let me get this straight, you are advocating moving the housing vs. the cable? The housing goes through all sorts of ports, bends and touches the frame in multiple spots. This makes no sense at all if you are saying it's the same thing. The housing is there to allow the inner cable to move due to these realities.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jayem View Post
    Let me get this straight, you are advocating moving the housing vs. the cable? The housing goes through all sorts of ports, bends and touches the frame in multiple spots. This makes no sense at all if you are saying it's the same thing. The housing is there to allow the inner cable to move due to these realities.
    yep, housing actuation is just poor engineering.

  17. #17
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    I'm not advocating anything. I'm describing how it works. Only the end of the housing at the post needs be able to move those mm and it is in most all cases. In those situations there's no difference between whether the cable or housing is doing the actuation. There're a few installations where that end of the housing isn't free to move, and those are the problem.

    What needs to be remembered is that a housing a cable work in opposition to transfer motion and force.
    Do the math.

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    The slack in my remote dropper until I sit on my post tells me the difference. Other posts donít exhibit this when using cable actuation because housing holds static tension. I was able to have a slack free, less forceful operation with cable actuated droppers.

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    How can a housing move a few mm at the end, but otherwise be static?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Lone Rager View Post
    I'm not advocating anything. I'm describing how it works. Only the end of the housing at the post needs be able to move those mm and it is in most all cases. In those situations there's no difference between whether the cable or housing is doing the actuation. There're a few installations where that end of the housing isn't free to move, and those are the problem.

    What needs to be remembered is that a housing a cable work in opposition to transfer motion and force.
    Unless Iím not understanding how this post works... if only the housing at the post end needs to move (as you say) unless itís stretching somehow, all of the housing has to move.


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    Quote Originally Posted by incubus View Post
    Unless Iím not understanding how this post works... if only the housing at the post end needs to move (as you say) unless itís stretching somehow, all of the housing has to move.


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    You are understanding correctly. The housing must shift. The ďslackĒ is assuming there is a fixed point of holding at frame insertion. On my evil that is not the case, so the housing slides in and out of the dropper routing hole.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by incubus View Post
    Unless Iím not understanding how this post works... if only the housing at the post end needs to move (as you say) unless itís stretching somehow, all of the housing has to move.
    At the remote, the housing is fixed and the cable moves within it. At the dropper, the cable is fixed and the housing moves over it. The housing can be fixed along it's length until a final length/bend at the post end that will allow it move the necessary amount.

    OK. Here's an example that might help illustrate this. If you loosen the cable pinch bolt on a rear derailleur and pull the housing and cable out an inch or so such that the housing is clear of the RD, then tighten the pinch bolt, the housing will move as you click the shifter. It'll move toward the RD shifting to a lower gear and away shifting to a higher gear while the RD and cable remain fixed.

    Disclaimer: I have no feeling about this one way or the other. I'm not saying it's good or bad. I've installed systems like this (Wolftooth cable remote for Reverbs) and understand how they work. They work perfectly fine if the installation criteria are met.
    Do the math.

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    This is fair, but I still posit the actuation is less refined than having the cable do the actuation and allowed the housing to be fixed.

  24. #24
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    This finally made sense for me. The reason they did this is it shortens the overall length of the post. That is a major selling point of the OneUp dropper. Maximum drop from the shortest possible post.

    The e13 post that I just replaced is actuated by the inner cable, not the housing. The e13 actuator is easily double the length of the OU actuator.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Big AC View Post
    If I remember correctly for the MT thread youíll be on an XXL. As the distance from the exit of the tube in tube to the actuator of the post might be longer due to the length of the seat tube you might get enough slack to make it worth, might (even getting some slack in the housing might not solve the issue). Hopefully OU can get a working retrofitable solution out soon as a 210mm post on a XXL MT sounds great.
    Yep, the XXL MT should be here Friday. That's a good point. I may take some measurements when the bike comes and contact OneUp.

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    Quote Originally Posted by sptimmy43 View Post
    This finally made sense for me. The reason they did this is it shortens the overall length of the post....
    Good point. I hadn't thought of that wrt the Oneup dropper. In the case of the Wolftooth cable remote for the Reverb, the post needs to have the poppet pushed. Using the cable to actuate it would require a lever of some sort on the bottom of the post (like the BikeYoke Dehy) to reverse its action. Using the housing to push makes it simpler and shorter. IDK what goes on on the bottom of the Oneup dropper.
    Do the math.

  27. #27
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    Wouldn't housing movement rub/wear the frame over time? At least any finish would probably show rubbing?

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    Quote Originally Posted by IAmHolland View Post
    Wouldn't housing movement rub/wear the frame over time? At least any finish would probably show rubbing?
    This is one of my concerns for sure. Carbon is piss poor at abrasion resistance.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jeremy3220 View Post
    Yep, the XXL MT should be here Friday. That's a good point. I may take some measurements when the bike comes and contact OneUp.
    FWIW: I have a large V3 bronson with V1 170 dropper and wolftooth remote, there is room to spare in seat tube and its been flawless

  30. #30
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    Goddamn I wish I would have bought a OneUp post this summer instead of the POS Specialized post I have, Specialized doesn't even sell service kits for them anymore...

    Will Oneup provide service kits for posts after you move onto other designs??? I can't believe companies are treating $350 seat posts like they are a disposable item.

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by unrooted View Post
    Goddamn I wish I would have bought a OneUp post this summer instead of the POS Specialized post I have, Specialized doesn't even sell service kits for them anymore...

    Will Oneup provide service kits for posts after you move onto other designs??? I can't believe companies are treating $350 seat posts like they are a disposable item.
    Thatís exactly why I bought the Bikeyoke Revive. 3+ years later, Iím glad I did.
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  32. #32
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    ^^^ FWIW: The new Reverb has a revive feature. Not sure if that's only on the AXS version or not.
    Do the math.

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    "Available mid June" https://int.oneupcomponents.com/coll.../dropper-posts

    Dang. Maybe I'll get a v1 170mm as those are now discounted.

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    Quote Originally Posted by OneUp View Post
    The SC low shock is the only frame where we've seen an issue. On that bike the housing exits the tube-in-tube 1-3" from the bottom of the post. Normally the 4mm is easily achieved with the tiniest bit of slack housing (even when the housing is clamped further away). We are actually double checking the Nomad 4 because we've have a bunch of people tell us it's fine. The Bronson and Megatower are definitely troublesome so we assumed the Nomad 4 too. I'll update here and online once we've confirmed.
    Hi Oneup, just wanted to see if youíve come to a conclusion on the Nomad 4? Thanks!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sospeedy View Post
    Hi Oneup, just wanted to see if youíve come to a conclusion on the Nomad 4? Thanks!
    I've also been waiting for an update on this.

    I've been putting off buying a new dropper to see if the new OneUp posts would fit, but i need to get something sorted so if they're not compatible i might as well pick something different up instead of waiting.

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sospeedy View Post
    Hi Oneup, just wanted to see if youíve come to a conclusion on the Nomad 4? Thanks!
    We'll have a new actuator design that will be available along side the V2 in a few weeks for all low slung SC bikes. The Nomad V4 by all accounts works with the current actuator.

    Cheers.
    Jon @ OneUp

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    Quote Originally Posted by OneUp View Post
    We'll have a new actuator design that will be available along side the V2 in a few weeks for all low slung SC bikes. The Nomad V4 by all accounts works with the current actuator.

    Cheers.
    Jon @ OneUp
    Does the new actuator utilise only cable pull or is there still that little bit of outer sheath movement required?

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by robmac48 View Post
    Does the new actuator utilise only cable pull or is there still that little bit of outer sheath movement required?
    Only cable pull with no actuator length increase...

    It is only needed on SC frames so will be a free add-on (meaning you'll be two actuators) until a rolling change can be made. That means you'll need to install it but it is a 5 minute job.

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    Quote Originally Posted by OneUp View Post
    Only cable pull with no actuator length increase...

    It is only needed on SC frames so will be a free add-on (meaning you'll be two actuators) until a rolling change can be made. That means you'll need to install it but it is a 5 minute job.
    Thanks for the extra info! Do you know when they will be available? Will the actuator for SC frames be included or something available separately?

  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by Snap4130 View Post
    Thanks for the extra info! Do you know when they will be available? Will the actuator for SC frames be included or something available separately?
    It is free with the purchase of a V2 dropper by checking a box when you purchase but as I mentioned needs to be installed. It will also be available separately as a paid for service part.

    OneUp Dropper V2-sp1c0060.jpg

    It is not compatible with V1 posts.

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    What are the differences from V1 to V2 other than the reduced length?

    I just bought a V1 from Worldwide on clearance and am pondering returning it and waiting for V2 if there are other improvements to be had.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mnpikey View Post
    What are the differences from V1 to V2 other than the reduced length?

    I just bought a V1 from Worldwide on clearance and am pondering returning it and waiting for V2 if there are other improvements to be had.

    UPDATES

    Shortest total length of any dropper
    Shortest stack height of any dropper
    New upper DU Bushing in the upper collar
    Increased bushing overlap and durability
    100-210mm post lengths in 10mm increments.
    20g lighter

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    Hi, @OneUP;
    I need to order a remote for the V2, going with a WolfTooth. Is it still 'preferred' to use the regular remote or is the Light Action remote an option as well?
    Thanks.
    Last edited by majorjake; 06-04-2019 at 10:33 AM.

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    OneUp Dropper V2-dude.jpg

  45. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by majorjake View Post
    Hi, @OneUP;
    I need to order a remote for the V2, going with a WolfTooth. Is it still 'preferred' to use the regular remote or is the Light Action remote an option as well?
    Thanks.
    I'd recommend our V2 dropper lever. The updated remote has the same awesome lever position for ultimate thumb wrap and control but now has a more durable aluminum body and is available in 22.2, I-Spec EV, I-Spec II and MMX clamp options, for perfect integration with your brake lever at no extra cost. It is also just $49...

    https://www.oneupcomponents.com/coll...er-post-remote

    OneUp Dropper V2-oneup-components-dropper-remote-i-spec-ev-iso-966.jpg

  46. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by majorjake View Post
    UPDATES

    Shortest total length of any dropper
    Shortest stack height of any dropper
    New upper DU Bushing in the upper collar
    Increased bushing overlap and durability
    100-210mm post lengths in 10mm increments.
    20g lighter
    Does any of this mean that it'll cycle more smoothly and not bind easily at the seatpost collar? I'd like to get the 210mm one, but my 170mm one up has these issues.

  47. #47
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    been waiting for these to start shipping for a while. I've been told mid-late june a few times by my LBS. Getting impatient!

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    Quote Originally Posted by minimusprime View Post
    been waiting for these to start shipping for a while. I've been told mid-late june a few times by my LBS. Getting impatient!
    Shipping on or before June 28th.

    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

  49. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by minimusprime View Post
    been waiting for these to start shipping for a while. I've been told mid-late june a few times by my LBS. Getting impatient!
    Same here...Looks like 180mm Drop posts came available today....I'm hoping for a 120mm post so hopefully they come available soon!

  50. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by Twiggy View Post
    Same here...Looks like 180mm Drop posts came available today....I'm hoping for a 120mm post so hopefully they come available soon!
    Where did you see the 180 available?

    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

  51. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by majorjake View Post
    Where did you see the 180 available?

    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
    On the OneUp site (at least on the Canadian site)- its the only option that you can now add to your cart...and that's new as of today....I've been checking daily :P

  52. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by Twiggy View Post
    On the OneUp site (at least on the Canadian site)- its the only option that you can now add to your cart...and that's new as of today....I've been checking daily :P
    No love in the USA yet.


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  53. #53
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    The 120mm 30.9 Post that I was waiting for came in to stock today!....Ordered within 5 minutes of getting a notification email!

  54. #54
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    A quick update.

    Canada. All droppers are live!

    Worldwide. Droppers are enroute to our US/UK warehouses. They should be up for sale Between Jun 21-28.

    Thanks for your patience.

    Jon @ OneUp
    Last edited by OneUp; 06-19-2019 at 09:59 AM.

  55. #55
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    For the record, Canadian orders won't ship to the USA....

  56. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by majorjake View Post
    No love in the USA yet.


    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
    Thats not true, lots of love, just no drooper posts yet. But OneUp still loves the USA.
    #THELEGENDMTB
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    USA orders are up, btw.

  58. #58
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    OneUp, please consider an offset head post in the future.

    We Specialized dicontinuing the old offset head Command Post and 9.8 being...iffy, it would be nice to have more options for offset droppers.
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    How does the one up like the cold? Like im talking -35C?



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  60. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by PHeller View Post
    OneUp, please consider an offset head post in the future.

    We Specialized dicontinuing the old offset head Command Post and 9.8 being...iffy, it would be nice to have more options for offset droppers.
    I do not see us releasing an offset head. We really do not believe in it. In all but a few cases we run our seats slammed fully forward.

    Thanks for the feedback however,
    Jon

  61. #61
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    ^^^ that's good for you guys, but customers with different physiological requirements, different bikes, doing different riding might prefer or even benefit from a rear offset post.

    Of course practically speaking, it's purely a business cost/benefit consideration; does the sales potential justify the cost.

    For you guys slamming the saddles forward, turn the offset post around so you can use the middle of the rails, or maybe slam it even further forward!!!
    Do the math.

  62. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by OneUp View Post
    ...
    Are the 150mm versions for the US already sold out? I'd love to grab one.

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    Just grabbed one of the 210mm for my GG Smash XXL...does this work with any cable actuated remote?

  64. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by SacAndrew View Post
    Are the 150mm versions for the US already sold out? I'd love to grab one.
    The first round is gone. More should be available in the next 1-3 days.

    Quote Originally Posted by sirsam84 View Post
    Just grabbed one of the 210mm for my GG Smash XXL...does this work with any cable actuated remote?
    Any remote that clamps the cable at the lever.

  65. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by OneUp View Post
    The first round is gone. More should be available in the next 1-3 days.
    Excellent. Patiently waiting and refreshing the page twice daily. 👍

  66. #66
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    My 210 dropper arrived today. Good news, it fits! (XL Kona Honzo ST)

    Will be finishing my new build next week when the last parts come in. Pretty excited to learn how important the extra 40mm of drop is worth to me over my current 170mm I have on 2 other bikes, also both OneUp droppers. Also curious to see if there's any noticeable improvements in performance. Will report back once it's up and running.
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    Last edited by majorjake; 06-29-2019 at 09:15 PM.

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    150's back in stock. Just grabbed mine.

  69. #69
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    Can anybody confirm if a 210mm dropper can be fully inserted in to a Bronson V3 XL?

  70. #70
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    Installed the dropper tonight. Wasn't overly impressed with how it felt TBH. Going on my experience with two of the gen 1 droppers I unthreaded the collar, hit it with some Slick Honey, and cycled it. Immediate improvement.

    Jury is out on the lever and how the post actually functions in the wild, still finishing my build but I'll report back when I get some ride time on it.
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  71. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by OneUp View Post
    The new low shock style Santa Cruz bikes have tube-in-tube dropper routing that is so tight...
    I see there is a new v2.1 actuator kit, that works with lower-shock-santa-cruz bikes.

    Can it be used with V1 dropper? Or is it only for V2 posts?

  72. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by timh View Post
    Can anybody confirm if a 210mm dropper can be fully inserted in to a Bronson V3 XL?
    Not exactly what you asked, but i can confirm the post can be fully inserted in an XL Nomad v4.

    Fitted my post a couple of days ago. Swapping to the 2.1 actuator took a little while as the 2 bolt holes for the small hex bolts hadn't been machined properly. Had to clean them up a bit before the bolts would thread.

  73. #73
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    Just got my 180 v2 and installed, I also had to slick honey it quite a bit to quiet a squeak on rise. I had to reposition the white bushing so the open gap part wasn't over one of the travel reducing channels. It would feel clicky/indexy if I didn't because the white bushing opening would catch ever so slightly in the channels. Overall the jury is out for me, going to keep riding and testing.

  74. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by Arseni View Post
    I see there is a new v2.1 actuator kit, that works with lower-shock-santa-cruz bikes.

    Can it be used with V1 dropper? Or is it only for V2 posts?
    Only v2. I think it was mentioned in this thread.

    Got my 31.6 210mm yesterday. No problems swapping to the v2.1 actuator. The post works fine though little resistance if not pressing down perpendicular with the post e.g. from the tip of the saddle. Extra 90mm over my previous 120mm dropper is nice.

    I did not see any shims with my post. The retail package was open and post sticking out. I hope I did not throw the shims away with the big box where retail box was packed. I ordered my post directly from Oneup UK site.

  75. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by hece View Post
    Only v2. I think it was mentioned in this thread.

    Got my 31.6 210mm yesterday. No problems swapping to the v2.1 actuator. The post works fine though little resistance if not pressing down perpendicular with the post e.g. from the tip of the saddle. Extra 90mm over my previous 120mm dropper is nice.

    I did not see any shims with my post. The retail package was open and post sticking out. I hope I did not throw the shims away with the big box where retail box was packed. I ordered my post directly from Oneup UK site.
    My shims were in the smaller box the post was in at the very bottom.

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  76. #76
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    Maybe I missed this....
    I see you can adjust how far the post travels down.
    Can you do the same with upward travel?

    For example, I currently have a 170mm dropper. I want it to drop all the way down.
    But I actually need the post to only come up to 160mm area.
    Does this post do that?

  77. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by lardo5150 View Post
    Maybe I missed this....
    I see you can adjust how far the post travels down.
    Can you do the same with upward travel?

    For example, I currently have a 170mm dropper. I want it to drop all the way down.
    But I actually need the post to only come up to 160mm area.
    Does this post do that?
    Yes.

  78. #78
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    Quote Originally Posted by lardo5150 View Post
    Maybe I missed this....
    I see you can adjust how far the post travels down.
    Can you do the same with upward travel?

    For example, I currently have a 170mm dropper. I want it to drop all the way down.
    But I actually need the post to only come up to 160mm area.
    Does this post do that?
    That is correct. Shimming the post reduces the travel as well as the total length.

    Jon @ OneUp

  79. #79
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    My 30.9 120mm Travel post cam in at 434g, exactly 1g below claimed. Super happy with that as its going on my RM Element that I'm trying to keep as light as possible.

    Haven't gotten out on a ride on it yet, but first impressions are positive on the post. I'm a bit less certain how I feel about the ergonomics of the lever, which I feel could maybe be improved.

  80. #80
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    Been using the 210mm post in my XL Nomad V4 this weekend and it's been fantastic! For anyone tall it's a game changer.

  81. #81
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    Ok 3 rides now with the 210mm w/ wolftooth lever and jag wire dropper pro kit on my L Nomad 4 and itís pretty awesome. It is a little harder to get it to drop if any amount of weight is on the seat when using the lever (wolftooth). The lever will be extremely hard and wonít really activate the post and I donít want to push harder as it doesnít feel right (damage the housing or cable etc). It seems to be getting better each ride so maybe some break in required but I think the reverb was better in this one specific area example would be seated climbing and coming up to a tech section and wanting to drop the seat about an inch for a little more clearance/maneuverability. The reverb you could just stay seated pedaling and drop the seat, the oneup you have to stand punch the lever and then lower. Itís getting better though. Downhill Iím still not sure if I want it at 210 or 200, I went to a steeper place over the weekend but was having an off weekend and riding like total crap so I didnít even try to clear some of the zones that I wouldnít ever do with the 170. I see now Santa Cruz specs a 175 crank for sizes M-XXL when I got mine they only used 170, those extra 5 woulda been nice to have to keep the seat lower.

    All in all great post so far and finally something for us taller riders.

  82. #82
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jesse Hill View Post
    Ok 3 rides now with the 210mm w/ wolftooth lever and jag wire dropper pro kit on my L Nomad 4 and itís pretty awesome. It is a little harder to get it to drop if any amount of weight is on the seat when using the lever (wolftooth).
    Is it the regular or LA lever? The resistance when seated is typical of any similar hydraulics (Bike Yoke, RF, etc). You should just need a slight unweight (not full stand) to significantly reduce the force.

    Jon @ OneUp

  83. #83
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    Regular lever.

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    Just want to confirm what I have been reading as I am considering this post.

    The V1, the housing for the cable actually moved to actuate the dropper.

    The V2, only the cable inside the housing moves.

  85. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by lardo5150 View Post
    Just want to confirm what I have been reading as I am considering this post.

    The V1, the housing for the cable actually moved to actuate the dropper.

    The V2, only the cable inside the housing moves.
    If you get the V2 with the optional 2.1 actuator (Santa Cruz loser shock option) then that is correct. The V2 stock currently is the same as the V1.

  86. #86
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jesse Hill View Post
    Regular lever.
    That would be why. Our lever (and the LA) have significantly more leverage.

    Jon @ OneUp

  87. #87
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    Quote Originally Posted by OneUp View Post
    That would be why. Our lever (and the LA) have significantly more leverage.

    Jon @ OneUp
    Hmm wolftooth has the regular as the recommended for your post so that what I went with. It appears to work ok just stiff when weighted but as you said if I remove the weight then it works fine.

  88. #88
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jesse Hill View Post
    Hmm wolftooth has the regular as the recommended for your post so that what I went with.
    Iíll ping those guys to have that updated. The regular lever looks to have about a 2.5:1 leverage ratio (estimated from their photo). The OneUp lever is 4:1.

    Out of curiosity why did you go with WT and pay extra for housing rather than use the OneUp lever? Our V2 lever in dialed.

  89. #89
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    Quote Originally Posted by OneUp View Post
    Iíll ping those guys to have that updated. The regular lever looks to have about a 2.5:1 leverage ratio (estimated from their photo). The OneUp lever is 4:1.

    Out of curiosity why did you go with WT and pay extra for housing rather than use the OneUp lever? Our V2 lever in dialed.
    by chance do you know the leverage ratio for the WT LA remote?

    i've had the WT LA remote since it was released and used it with my 9point8 and oneup v1 dropper. i recently switched to the new oneup aluminum remote on my oneup v1 dropper and actually like it better. it's definitely easier to actuate.
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  90. #90
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    Quote Originally Posted by useport80 View Post
    by chance do you know the leverage ratio for the WT LA remote?

    i've had the WT LA remote since it was released and used it with my 9point8 and oneup v1 dropper. i recently switched to the new oneup aluminum remote on my oneup v1 dropper and actually like it better. it's definitely easier to actuate.
    Thanks! We're stoked with the underbar position. It means you can actuate without having to unwrap your thumb from your grips.

    Again only going from photos the WT LA looks to be about 3.5:1 and the PNW Loam Lever looks to be about 3.2:1 (assuming the press is mid paddle).

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    any coupon code for OneUp

  92. #92
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    Quote Originally Posted by OneUp View Post
    Iíll ping those guys to have that updated. The regular lever looks to have about a 2.5:1 leverage ratio (estimated from their photo). The OneUp lever is 4:1.

    Out of curiosity why did you go with WT and pay extra for housing rather than use the OneUp lever? Our V2 lever in dialed.
    At the time the one up lever was plastic and I got a discount code at sea otter for the wolf tooth. Also all reviews like the wolf tooth a lot. As for the housing kit it is jagwire a new one specific for droppers with a smaller cable OD (.8mm) and supposedly a more flexible housing. Just trying to make it as smooth and hydraulic like as possible while keeping cable reliability.

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    Speaking of levers, I get that OneUp would want us to use theirs, but to save money and time, could I just use my Reverb 1x remote that is there, and just swap out the post?
    Or will there be issues there?

  94. #94
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    I went with the PNW Loam Lever over the OneUp remote because I had the V1 remote and that ridge pattern on the thumb pad was way too aggressive (painful). I don't really understand why dropper remotes need extra grip. I was fine with the smooth finish reverb 1x lever.

    Also, the PNW lever is super short using the Sram matchmaker adaptor. Even with my freaky long thumbs it's hard to reach.

  95. #95
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    I'm using a LA WT remote, coming from a Transfer post/remote.

    The weight is good, not too stiff. The throw is a bit longer, might just need to find that sweet spot.

  96. #96
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    Quote Originally Posted by majorjake View Post
    I'm using a LA WT remote, coming from a Transfer post/remote.

    The weight is good, not too stiff. The throw is a bit longer, might just need to find that sweet spot.
    Donít think Iíd mind more throw since the Reverb Iím familiar with on the x1 lever you need to bottom it out before the post would move, the WT standard I think begins to activate with not much throw (at least in the going up direction). More just trying to get a smoother operation and if possible be able to activate it with even a little weight on the seat, currently you can not push the lever if any weight is on at all. In fact the cable will slip in the lever before it will activate the post so Iím not real confident a longer lever is going to solve that.

    I think I will give the new oneup a go since I have the WT all the way rotated to move the lever more under the bar (SRAM matchmaker) and could use it a bit more still.

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    Does anyone know the leverage ratio of the fox transfer lever? I'm really liking the 210 post so far!

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  98. #98
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    Quote Originally Posted by lardo5150 View Post
    Speaking of levers, I get that OneUp would want us to use theirs, but to save money and time, could I just use my Reverb 1x remote that is there, and just swap out the post?
    Or will there be issues there?
    Isnít a reverb hydraulic actuated?


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  99. #99
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shadow4eva View Post
    Isnít a reverb hydraulic actuated?


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    bah, I think you are right. Crap.
    Was trying to save 50 bucks.

  100. #100
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    Quote Originally Posted by lardo5150 View Post
    bah, I think you are right. Crap.
    Was trying to save 50 bucks.
    Yeah, lol... Anyways, a reverb can be cable actuated, but it requires the ReMote Sustain kit from WolfTooth.


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  101. #101
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    Hey @Oneup, what is the service like for the V2, same deal as the V1? Will there be a new instructions or will the old V1 instructions apply?

    Thanks
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  102. #102
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    Quote Originally Posted by Guy.Ford View Post
    Hey @Oneup, what is the service like for the V2, same deal as the V1? Will there be a new instructions or will the old V1 instructions apply?

    Thanks
    A lot of it is very similar but we're trying to have more procedures documented as well as better assembly docs and service part availability.

    https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/05...exploded-A.pdf

    Cheers,
    Jon

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    Tried fitting a 150 v2 on my medium Ripley V2 today and was happy to think I could get it to work with 140mm travel, but it all went sideways after attaching the cable to my standard Wolf Tooth lever. It was binding really bad. Checked the setup multiple times and I'm guessing the post was not happy with the cable angle from the bottom of the post to the exit port of the frame. I pretty much had the post slammed in the seat tube as far as it would go, but the port had to be at least 3-4 inches below the post. Pulling up the post 2-3 inches returned the action to what I assume was "normal", but it was still a short throw that took quite a bit of effort. I was almost wondering if the Santa Cruz option would handle this situation better, but having to seemingly buy another high leverage lever to lighten things up has made me abandon that idea. 3 hours and two wasted cables and it was back to the Bike Yoke 125mm.
    Last edited by tuskenraider; 07-12-2019 at 06:37 AM.
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  104. #104
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    Quote Originally Posted by tuskenraider View Post
    I was almost wondering if the Santa Cruz option would handle this situation better, but having to seeming have to buy another high leverage lever to lighten things up has made me abandon that idea.
    Yes, v2.1 actuator option would have helped. I can see how for v2.1 the light action WT lever is better as the post is quite firm to operate even with LA. I did not try the stock v2 actuator but swapped for v2.1 before installing the post.

  105. #105
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    Have a new size small Nomad for my son and the Reverb that comes with it will not go into the frame all the way. He needs it in further, and would like to get rid of Reverb anyway.

    Does the Nomad need the V 2.1 (not housing actuator) or just other models? (I see what it says on the site, but on this forum folks note the nomad/strega is OK).

    Is the insertion length as short for the V 2.1 as the 2.0?

    Does the V 2.1 work as well as the 2.0?

  106. #106
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    Quote Originally Posted by cakemonster View Post
    Have a new size small Nomad for my son and the Reverb that comes with it will not go into the frame all the way. He needs it in further, and would like to get rid of Reverb anyway.

    Does the Nomad need the V 2.1 (not housing actuator) or just other models? (I see what it says on the site, but on this forum folks note the nomad/strega is OK).

    Is the insertion length as short for the V 2.1 as the 2.0?

    Does the V 2.1 work as well as the 2.0?
    I'd recommend the V2.1 if it is fully slammed into the frame. The length is the same and the V2.1 will be smoother if space is limited.

    Jon @ OneUp

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    Ok so downieville ride today and post was better than it ever has been. So Iíve come to the conclusion the 2.1 actuator needs grease! All the pins etc are assembled dry and after 2 rides mine started squeaking and feeling notchy/indexy. I took it back apart and dunked it in marine grease and worked all the pivots etc and wiped most the excess off (left some as water proofing). Today the post was great, you can still feel the detent in the lever from closed to open but no where near as bad and honestly the wolf tooth regular is acceptable now. I already have the oneup coming and I think Iíll mock mount it up and if the lever position feels better Iíll give it a go, if not Iíll look in to a return.

    OneUp you guys should have the factory slap some lube on the pivot pins during assembly the actuator really needs it.

  108. #108
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    Quote Originally Posted by OneUp View Post
    I do not see us releasing an offset head. We really do not believe in it. In all but a few cases we run our seats slammed fully forward.

    Thanks for the feedback however,
    Jon
    ...Sounds like there's a need for a FORWARD OFFSET head! 9.8 released their forward offset option a few months back, however it is only available for their newest R line which tops out at 150mm travel.
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  109. #109
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    Quote Originally Posted by DirtMerchantBicycles View Post
    ...Sounds like there's a need for a FORWARD OFFSET head! 9.8 released their forward offset option a few months back, however it is only available for their newest R line which tops out at 150mm travel.
    Am I not understanding, looking at their site, it says offset back, not forward.
    Forward would mean you get 25mm more room to push the seat forward right?

  110. #110
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    Ok OneUp I got back to town and my remote has shown up. Iíve just test for it and this is not going to work for me. The lever is hitting my thumb, I have it as far inboard as possible and I run my brake levers further in than most people I know (sram matchmaker). So am I able to return this? Itís too bad, itís a clean design but I think the whole lever needs to be moved further inboard. I canít imagi anyone would run it in the furthest out position since the furthest in already has the lever sitting over the grip.

  111. #111
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jesse Hill View Post
    Ok OneUp I got back to town and my remote has shown up. Iíve just test for it and this is not going to work for me. The lever is hitting my thumb, I have it as far inboard as possible and I run my brake levers further in than most people I know (sram matchmaker). So am I able to return this? Itís too bad, itís a clean design but I think the whole lever needs to be moved further inboard. I canít imagi anyone would run it in the furthest out position since the furthest in already has the lever sitting over the grip.
    If you need to run it further inboard, youíd likely be better off with a 22.2mm clamp. Hit us up at [email protected]. Iím sure we can work something out.

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    Question on remote. I want to get the 120mm post as I need the low stack height. Problem is bike has shock/fork lockout mounted on the lower left bar where the oneup remote mounts (orbea oiz tr). Right now remote lever is a perpendicular to ground lever that fits right next to grip. Is there another remote lever with cable clamp that works with oneup that will fit with shock lockout?

    I guess the shorter question...is there a 2x compatible lever for the oneup?
    Last edited by Mark16q; 07-15-2019 at 07:37 AM.
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  113. #113
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    Quote Originally Posted by OneUp View Post
    If you need to run it further inboard, youíd likely be better off with a 22.2mm clamp. Hit us up at [email protected]. Iím sure we can work something out.
    Iím not really looking to go that route it kind of defeats the purpose of a clean direct mount. Iíll email about my options for a return if possible (it has not been used and no markings). Build quality is good and I like that there is no play in the lever and the cable is covered from view (makes it look cleaner) but Iím really surprised how far in the lever is. I would think the length should end up the same position as the shifter lever on the other side (or at least error shorter so your thumb doesnít hit) but unfortunately that isnít the case. The oneup remote in the furthest in position still has the lever overlapping the grip whereas the right side shift has about a 1/8-1/4 gap between. This causing two issues, one your thumb hits and two you have to swing your thumb around the bottom and then up in order to press the lever. All in all itís not what I would expect, build quality is good but ergonomics is far off.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails OneUp Dropper V2-a1f14457-8c79-4c01-8670-5384da27fc5e.jpg  

    OneUp Dropper V2-4eb8783d-200b-462d-ac7f-6bbfc5d2d259.jpg  

    OneUp Dropper V2-96c132b2-2fe0-423f-8043-7526027865b1.jpg  

    OneUp Dropper V2-c054525c-00ce-4d57-9110-0b04b7687328.jpg  


  114. #114
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jesse Hill View Post
    Iím not really looking to go that route it kind of defeats the purpose of a clean direct mount. Iíll email about my options for a return if possible (it has not been used and no markings). Build quality is good and I like that there is no play in the lever and the cable is covered from view (makes it look cleaner) but Iím really surprised how far in the lever is. I would think the length should end up the same position as the shifter lever on the other side (or at least error shorter so your thumb doesnít hit) but unfortunately that isnít the case. The oneup remote in the furthest in position still has the lever overlapping the grip whereas the right side shift has about a 1/8-1/4 gap between. This causing two issues, one your thumb hits and two you have to swing your thumb around the bottom and then up in order to press the lever. All in all itís not what I would expect, build quality is good but ergonomics is far off.
    Why not just swap the matchmaker pieces from left and right? Your dropper and shifter levers will move further inboard without affecting the brake position.
    OneUp Dropper V2-2019-07-15_1133.jpg

  115. #115
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    Quote Originally Posted by lankycrank View Post
    Why not just swap the matchmaker pieces from left and right? Your dropper and shifter levers will move further inboard without affecting the brake position.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    I donít think the shift one matches up to the one up body also I have no issue on my right side so Iíd have to go buy another right side matchmaker. A lot of hassle to make it work when I could just use the wolftooth I already have or add the LA lever for 20.00. I was interested in the lower thumb position of the oneup and longer leverage but seems the geometry is off (IMO). Like I said Iím surprised theyíd have it that far outboard even in the furthest in position, if anyone used the furthest out position the lever would be halfway into their grip.

  116. #116
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jesse Hill View Post
    I donít think the shift one matches up to the one up body also I have no issue on my right side so Iíd have to go buy another right side matchmaker. A lot of hassle to make it work when I could just use the wolftooth I already have or add the LA lever for 20.00. I was interested in the lower thumb position of the oneup and longer leverage but seems the geometry is off (IMO). Like I said Iím surprised theyíd have it that far outboard even in the furthest in position, if anyone used the furthest out position the lever would be halfway into their grip.
    Hello Jesse,

    Our position is very similar to the Reverb - See below. I has also going to suggest picking up a RH MMX adapter. They are compatible directly with the OneUp lever (One of our team riders does this for his Reverb 1X).

    OneUp Dropper V2-reverb.png

  117. #117
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    Quote Originally Posted by OneUp View Post
    Hello Jesse,

    Our position is very similar to the Reverb - See below. I has also going to suggest picking up a RH MMX adapter. They are compatible directly with the OneUp lever (One of our team riders does this for his Reverb 1X).

    Click image for larger version. 

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    coming off a reverb I'dOneUp Dropper V2-ad9570bc-da3b-4ce8-81a4-412e81687582.jpgOneUp Dropper V2-b51c3ac0-6f23-49a5-9c99-a21966fdf2e0.jpgOneUp Dropper V2-d0bc0787-ff6f-4598-a7be-444e9fee7d18.jpg have to disagree with that finding. Ruler is a little crooked but not that far off and hand position is/was same, lever was never removed so lever position is 100% consistent. Like I said nothing wrong with the build quality but the ergonomics are a no go for me. its maybe like the length of the lever on the reverb got copied but the oneup being straighter (straight line = longer distance) didn't get taken into account.

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    this is what mine looks like.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails OneUp Dropper V2-20190716_193500.jpg  

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  119. #119
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    How the heck do you remove a saddle from this post without having to fully remove the 2 bolts holding the rail clamps together? Never seen a seatpost that is so difficult to simply remove the saddle from it (unless I'm doing it wrong)?

  120. #120
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    Quote Originally Posted by mnpikey View Post
    How the heck do you remove a saddle from this post without having to fully remove the 2 bolts holding the rail clamps together? Never seen a seatpost that is so difficult to simply remove the saddle from it (unless I'm doing it wrong)?
    The drop rail system does make it a little trickier but it is simple once you know how. The nice thing is that your saddle will be at the same angle because you never loosen the front bolt.

    Remove
    - Fully remove the rear bolt
    - Tilt the saddle nose down
    - Remove the lower clamp
    - Remove the saddle from the upper clamp
    - Remove the Upper clamp

    Install
    - front bolt and nut should still be attached to the post
    - Slide the upper clamp onto front nut
    - Install seat to the upper clamp
    - Slide the lower clamp under the seat rails
    - Install the rear bolt

    Jon @ OneUp

  121. #121
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jesse Hill View Post
    Like I said nothing wrong with the build quality but the ergonomics are a no go for me.
    Of course you can return it if you like but I'd recommend asking your LBS for a RH MMX adapter. There is likely to be one lying around.

    Jon

  122. #122
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    Quote Originally Posted by OneUp View Post
    Of course you can return it if you like but I'd recommend asking your LBS for a RH MMX adapter. There is likely to be one lying around.
    Here is the RH MMX for $19 but I'm sure it could be had for a beer at your LBS.

    https://www.worldwidecyclery.com/pro...ixir-mag-x0-xx

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    Quote Originally Posted by OneUp View Post
    Here is the RH MMX for $19 but I'm sure it could be had for a beer at your LBS.

    https://www.worldwidecyclery.com/pro...ixir-mag-x0-xx
    what does this do? shift the lever over to the right?

  124. #124
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    Quote Originally Posted by lardo5150 View Post
    what does this do? shift the lever over to the right?
    It just mounts the remote further inboard compared to the left hand version.


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    Looking for more reviews on this dropper.
    Besides the Reverb, ths is the only dropper that I can slam and still adjust to the right height.

    So if anyone has the v2 installed, would love your opinion on it after you have put it through the ringer

  126. #126
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    Curious how the operation of this post feels compared to the V1. The V1 is basically grindy feeling throughout it's travel (with the upper bushing and collar unscrewed it feels this same) compared to a Bikeyoke and a KSLev I have tried that just feel smooth and a PNW components that is smoother (but not Bikeyoke level smooth)

    Is the V2 smoother in operation than the V1?

  127. #127
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    Quote Originally Posted by cassieno View Post
    Curious how the operation of this post feels compared to the V1. The V1 is basically grindy feeling throughout it's travel (with the upper bushing and collar unscrewed it feels this same) compared to a Bikeyoke and a KSLev I have tried that just feel smooth and a PNW components that is smoother (but not Bikeyoke level smooth)

    Is the V2 smoother in operation than the V1?
    I had v1 (returned due to stiction) and now have v2 180mm. I've used v2 with both the regular and LA Wolftooth levers. I will say after applying a generous amount of slick honey under the collar and installing the different actuator (v2.1), my operation has been smooth for the last several weeks. I will say, the actuation using the v2.1 actuator is much better compared to the one that comes with it. Reason being, the one that comes with it from the factory would stick or be hard to actuate the first time after no use, but I don't have that problem with the v2.1 actuator. Lastly, I know you didn't ask, but the LA lever over the regular Wolftooth lever is much smoother/gentle on the thumb. It has a higher leverage ratio than the regular.

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    Thus far I've been 95% happy with my OneUp V2 Dropper.... Its light, actuates easily, and returns predictably... my one complaint is that after ~3 rides mine is already developing side-to-side play :S ...luckily, not enough to notice while riding though.

  129. #129
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    I just did a little write up about the OneUp V2 seatpost. It looks to be a pretty good product. I hope it's useful.

    OneUp 210 | Peter Verdone Designs


  130. #130
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    Quote Originally Posted by pvd View Post
    I just did a little write up about the OneUp V2 seatpost. It looks to be a pretty good product. I hope it's useful.

    OneUp 210 | Peter Verdone Designs

    Great write up! Thanks.

  131. #131
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    Quote Originally Posted by kkaufmann View Post
    I had v1 (returned due to stiction) and now have v2 180mm. I've used v2 with both the regular and LA Wolftooth levers. I will say after applying a generous amount of slick honey under the collar and installing the different actuator (v2.1), my operation has been smooth for the last several weeks. I will say, the actuation using the v2.1 actuator is much better compared to the one that comes with it. Reason being, the one that comes with it from the factory would stick or be hard to actuate the first time after no use, but I don't have that problem with the v2.1 actuator. Lastly, I know you didn't ask, but the LA lever over the regular Wolftooth lever is much smoother/gentle on the thumb. It has a higher leverage ratio than the regular.
    Is the v2.1 actuator just for Santa Cruz or is there a benefit for any bike?
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  132. #132
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    Just installed a One Up V2 210mm post, it replaced a One Up V1 170mm post, swap was supper simple, just loosen the cable at the lever, swap posts, and reinstall.

    I'm using a short Wolf Tooth lever, works fine, plenty of leverage.

    Post fully inserts into a Guerrilla Gravity Size 3 frame.

    In comparison to my V1 post, the V2 post feels tighter (bushing, overlap?), the actuation mechanism is lower profile and seems to hold the housing and cable more securely. Clamping mechanism is unchanged.

    Excellent function, low price, shortest insert.

    Edit: @ Svinyard: I tried to PM, but your inbox is full

    "I had occassional stiction with V1, but only on my Revved Shred, it never happens on my Fezzari, and I don't remember it happening on my aluminum Smash.

    I found the V1 to be very sensitive to seat post clamp pressure and at times it would get sticky when the weather was hot and dry; I live in the desert, so yeah, that sucks.

    Adding more PSI and keeping the seat post clamp loose were helpful.

    The V2 is much more powerful on the return and it did not seem to have any stiction when I clamped down the seat post clamp.

    It's still early, maybe ask again in September

    That said, for $200, damn you get a super long post that doesn't wiggle and it holds the seat tight, hard to beat that even with the occasional stiction; every post I've owned has had issues with return."
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  133. #133
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    Just installed a One Up V2 210mm post, it replaced a One Up V1 170mm post, swap was supper simple, just loosen the cable at the lever, swap posts, and reinstall.

    I'm using a short Wolf Tooth lever, works fine, plenty of leverage.

    Post fully inserts into a Guerrilla Gravity Size 3 frame.

    In comparison to my V1 post, the V2 post feels tighter (bushing, overlap?), the actuation mechanism is lower profile and seems to hold the housing and cable more securely. Clamping mechanism is unchanged.

    Excellent function, low price, shortest insert.

    Edit: @ Svinyard: I tried to PM, but your inbox is full

    "I had occassional stiction with V1, but only on my Revved Shred, it never happens on my Fezzari, and I don't remember it happening on my aluminum Smash.

    I found the V1 to be very sensitive to seat post clamp pressure and at times it would get sticky when the weather was hot and dry; I live in the desert, so yeah, that sucks.

    Adding more PSI and keeping the seat post clamp loose were helpful.

    The V2 is much more powerful on the return and it did not seem to have any stiction when I clamped down the seat post clamp.

    It's still early, maybe ask again in September

    That said, for $200, damn you get a super long post that doesn't wiggle and it holds the seat tight, hard to beat that even with the occasional stiction; every post I've owned has had issues with return."
    Any play (wiggle) in the seat?

  134. #134
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    Just installed a One Up V2 210mm post, it replaced a One Up V1 170mm post, swap was supper simple, just loosen the cable at the lever, swap posts, and reinstall.

    I'm using a short Wolf Tooth lever, works fine, plenty of leverage.

    Post fully inserts into a Guerrilla Gravity Size 3 frame.

    In comparison to my V1 post, the V2 post feels tighter (bushing, overlap?), the actuation mechanism is lower profile and seems to hold the housing and cable more securely. Clamping mechanism is unchanged.

    Excellent function, low price, shortest insert.

    Edit: @ Svinyard: I tried to PM, but your inbox is full

    "I had occassional stiction with V1, but only on my Revved Shred, it never happens on my Fezzari, and I don't remember it happening on my aluminum Smash.

    I found the V1 to be very sensitive to seat post clamp pressure and at times it would get sticky when the weather was hot and dry; I live in the desert, so yeah, that sucks.

    Adding more PSI and keeping the seat post clamp loose were helpful.

    The V2 is much more powerful on the return and it did not seem to have any stiction when I clamped down the seat post clamp.

    It's still early, maybe ask again in September

    That said, for $200, damn you get a super long post that doesn't wiggle and it holds the seat tight, hard to beat that even with the occasional stiction; every post I've owned has had issues with return."
    thanks man, sounds like a winner! I just ordered up a 210mm (I'm 6-4) to replace my 170mm. I have a few bikes in the family and can put the 170mm V1 to use with shorter people (shimming is sure nice about now for that). Stoked to get the big drop!

  135. #135
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    Quote Originally Posted by pvd View Post
    I just did a little write up about the OneUp V2 seatpost. It looks to be a pretty good product. I hope it's useful.

    OneUp 210 | Peter Verdone Designs
    Great write-up. Definitely some tidbits we'll consider for the future.

    Regarding the oversized pin kits, they should be available in all stores in a week or so. There is some play by design (like all droppers). With so many different frames, clamps and ride heights it's not possible to ship play-free without running the risk of binding. The kit is meant to remove additional play that might develop over time or, for the more mechanically inclined, to tune the play out for a specific application.

    "If itís a cartridge similar to the KS LEV, then thereís a lot of room for internal adjustments. If itís truly factory sealed cartridge, then it may require replacement when that time comes." - The cartridge can be opened with relatively standard tools (for a suspension shop). We chose to not recommend service as we do not have service centers worldwide. Instead, we sell the cartridge with very little markup. Disassembly is not recommended and would be completed at ones own risk but it is certainly possible.

    "This post uses a 3mm rod and I had some 3mm titanium stock on hand" - This is my favourite line.

    In retrospect we were light of instructions for the V1 and are looking to improve that.

    Thanks PVD and everyone on this forum for your support and feedback.

    Jon @ OneUp

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    Does the v2 post have "play"? Does the seat wiggle?

  137. #137
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    Also want to ask about these oversized pins to remove play. What are these and where do you get them I don't see them on the site

  138. #138
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    I found this thread last night and headed to Jensonís today to buy it. I was sold with the 210mm drop in such a short overall package. It indeed fits my Intense ACV in XL no problem. While I donít posses the creative writing skills of some here (or a supply of precious metal stock in metric sizing haha), hereís my take.

    Good:

    -210mm drop
    -Doesnít wiggle or move or creak or make any noise
    -Doesnít feel flimsy at all
    -Really decent MSRP


    Bad:

    -The mating of the lever and the housing is way too tight and will take considerable time to wear in. I had to loosen the hex bolt holding the lever to the housing and hit it with red loctite with no torque on it. I may pull the lever off the housing it and dremel it a bit to smooth it out, but without doing one of those things, it wouldnít release the lever enough to lock the post out.
    -itís leaving an oil ring near the top of the post when depressed and released again. The other reviews mentioned it needed extra grease, but mine will be collecting dirt there. Iím hoping that residual grease goes away after some use.

    Second picture is the lever stuck open. I was trying to show the finish wearing off as it works itself in but couldnít really get it.

    Overall, Iím happy.

    OneUp Dropper V2-885a69ef-d00c-4707-b0fe-ebf30c63ae33.jpg

    OneUp Dropper V2-42befc6f-a72c-4add-b47b-c4885e61d37e.jpg

  139. #139
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    Could someone please confirm that the dropper v2 210mm will fit a nomad 4 XL frame ?

  140. #140
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    Quote Originally Posted by lardo5150 View Post
    Also want to ask about these oversized pins to remove play. What are these and where do you get them I don't see them on the site
    They should be in stock in a few days.

    https://www.oneupcomponents.com/coll...ized-pin-kit-1

    OneUp Dropper V2-sp1c0061-oneup-dropper-v2-oversized-pin-kit.jpg

    All dropper posts require key way clearance. With so many different frames, clamps and ride heights it's not possible to ship play-free without running the risk of binding. The kit is meant to remove additional play that might develop over time or, for the more mechanically inclined, to tune the play out for a specific bike.

    Start with the 3 pins marked with 2 lines. If play still exists move to the 3 pins marked with 4 lines.

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    Hey Oneup, if the post were to develop sag, is there a release valve or do you have to do maintenance on the post?

  142. #142
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    Quote Originally Posted by lardo5150 View Post
    Hey Oneup, if the post were to develop sag, is there a release valve or do you have to do maintenance on the post?
    Replacement cartridges are $60 (less than a reverb service) and covered by warranty for two years.

  143. #143
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    Quote Originally Posted by tirrorex View Post
    Could someone please confirm that the dropper v2 210mm will fit a nomad 4 XL frame ?
    I have a 210 in a large and it barely fits at full drop, my dad has it in an XL and fits with no issue and room to drop lower.

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    Does anyone have problems with there's not returning all the way? Just installed mine today and seems like it won't return the last inch.

  145. #145
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    Just got my 210mm in and just confirming that it does not go all the way into my Large 2019 Patrol. The insert length is 297mm, which is almost exactly where the bend in the seat-tube is, and that leaves about 50mm of post sticking out. However, it fits perfectly to my leg length unshimmed. If I had went 180mm, I would have an extra 30mm of post sticking out but with the option to slam it all the way into the frame if needed.

    More just a PSA if anyone wants to put one on their Patrol.
    We don't ride to add days to our life, we ride to add life to the days we have left here.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jesse Hill View Post
    I have a 210 in a large and it barely fits at full drop, my dad has it in an XL and fits with no issue and room to drop lower.
    Awesome thanks mate

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    Quote Originally Posted by Douglas25 View Post
    Does anyone have problems with there's not returning all the way? Just installed mine today and seems like it won't return the last inch.
    What is your collars torque? Maybe its not the post but the seat post collar is too tight. I'd try it at 5nm...maybe 4nm if you have too. Keep us posted.

    Of course you can unscrew the post's collar and dump some slick honey under that collar too.

  148. #148
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thustlewhumber View Post
    Just got my 210mm in and just confirming that it does not go all the way into my Large 2019 Patrol. The insert length is 297mm, which is almost exactly where the bend in the seat-tube is, and that leaves about 50mm of post sticking out. However, it fits perfectly to my leg length unshimmed. If I had went 180mm, I would have an extra 30mm of post sticking out but with the option to slam it all the way into the frame if needed.

    More just a PSA if anyone wants to put one on their Patrol.
    Just a follow up: Rode the bike last night on a variety of trails. Hit a jump line and the jumps are perfect, as the seat doesnt hit me in the air anymore. Climbs are also great - did 2100ft up in about 2 miles, and the ability to set the angle of the seat down even further is a huge win (and comfortable). The descent back down also kept the seat out of the way. Huge thumbs up from me.
    We don't ride to add days to our life, we ride to add life to the days we have left here.

  149. #149
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thustlewhumber View Post
    Just a follow up: Rode the bike last night on a variety of trails. Hit a jump line and the jumps are perfect, as the seat doesnt hit me in the air anymore. Climbs are also great - did 2100ft up in about 2 miles, and the ability to set the angle of the seat down even further is a huge win (and comfortable). The descent back down also kept the seat out of the way. Huge thumbs up from me.
    Isnít it awesome being tall and finally able to get the seat out of the way! Been wanting this ever since the reverb 125, then lev 150 wasnít enough and then reverb 170 was getting closer and now finally 210 (200 would probably be fine as well) and I can finally have the seat the same as my DH bike. Rode some steeper loose terrain today that Iíd normally probably not ride and while still intimidating rolling into it once on the decent it is so much better. Now I just have to realize steep terrain wonít be so bad anymore, have to break old habits/fears.

  150. #150
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    Quote Originally Posted by Douglas25 View Post
    Does anyone have problems with there's not returning all the way? Just installed mine today and seems like it won't return the last inch.
    Any update to this Douglas. Did you get it figured out? Was it a grease issue or something else? Looking forward to my 210 this week and the new design

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    Got the v2 210mm w/ 2.1 actuator installed. No big rides yet but its definitely nice. I still have a v1 170mm that I'm putting on the wife's bike I think. The IGUS bushing, after bedded in, is a nice improvement on the v1 so far.

    v2 is noticeably improved in a few areas. It comes up quickly at 275psi (same PSI as my v1) and doesn't show any signs of slowing near the top despite my post being clamped only 1in from the post's collar. I do have it clamped at around 3.5nm/4nm or so. I'm ok with that pressure so far. One thing I noticed is that the post doesn't require much, if any unwieghting to actuate it. I also had to lean on my v1 a fair amount to just push it down with my hand, this goes down more easily with less force. The cable pull actuation is easier to do than my v1 that used the housing. Its noticeably easier actuate at the lever. Not earth shattering but nice and feels good. Barrel adjustment removes any unwanted play.

    I really like that the post drops easily with my weight alone (no bounce required) and is easier to mash the lever...yet still comes up fast with a nice thwack. Even when its just down an inch or so it comes back aggressively which is a good sign.

    Install was really easy once I got the original v1 off. The 2.1 actuator install was simple too, tho using a 15mm socket on the actuator's head alone was a bit odd at first (there is no socket interface on the 2.1 actuator). It was fine tho and worked at 5nm. As someone else suggested, I did add a bit of grease to the actuator. Once installed, it made a little creaking noise when actuated but after using it for 15mins or so it was unnoticeable after breaking in. No clunking or clicking etc, just a smooth actuation. I put a little slick honey under the collar just incase it was dry from sitting.

    The length is SUPER nice lol. I'm 6-4 and can see why you normal sized guys enjoy the 170mm/180mm posts. It gets everything out of the way. Easy to hop on the bike as well whilst being on the hill. For me it doesn't drop TOO much either; I can pedal a bit still with it entirely dropped without feeling like my knees are popping loose.

    Nevertheless, a great purchase so far. Its real nice and not "just for the money" either. The updates close the gap for me between some of the other $$$ models like BikeYoke assuming everything stays tip-top. The extra length is undeniably awesome and a hot setup for us taller guys/gals.

  152. #152
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    I finally installed my 210mm OneUp dropper using the 2.1 actuator. I haven't ridden it yet but when I cycle it up and down with my hand, there is some noise in the dropper body, almost like something is loose or moving inside, and you feel a bump as you cycle through the first third of the travel. Anyone know what that is, and if it's normal? And, if not, how to fix it?

    I should note that I took apart the post to grease it up and install the 2.1 actuator, so maybe I screwed something up, but it wasn't particularly complicated, and I didn't see anything that could come loose.

  153. #153
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    Quote Originally Posted by LowLow View Post
    I should note that I took apart the post to grease it up and install the 2.1 actuator, so maybe I screwed something up, but it wasn't particularly complicated, and I didn't see anything that could come loose.
    Hit us up at [email protected] we'll figure it out and get you sorted.

    Jon @ OneUp

  154. #154
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    Deleted, I read your post wrong and it sounds like there is something internal perhaps that is a bit loose.

    When I cycle mine in my hand, it doesn't do any of that. These are the things needed for proper assembly tho. Maybe you forgot one?

    1- Remove the existing 2.0 actuator
    2- Swap the rubber bumper from the 2.0 to 2.1 (maybe this was forgotten?)
    3- Slide on the 2.1 and put the bolts in the right way (I did mine backwards for a second)
    4- Torque down the 2.1 actuator using a 15mm socket head placed over the head of the actuator (no real socket interface). Tighten to 5nm.

  155. #155
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    Question for you Oneup, have you had any reports of the v2 dropper overall diameter being a few mm too narrow? The one I have is around 30.84 at the base for a 30.9. I've noticed a very slight knock/shimmy of my whole post if I grab the base shaft (not part that extends) and pivot it inside the seattube. I've torqued my clamp to 5.5nm and applied carbon paste. My frame is the 18' Pivot Mach 5.5.

    Thoughts or solutions?

  156. #156
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    Quote Originally Posted by kkaufmann View Post
    Question for you Oneup, have you had any reports of the v2 dropper overall diameter being a few mm too narrow? The one I have is around 30.84 at the base for a 30.9. I've noticed a very slight knock/shimmy of my whole post if I grab the base shaft (not part that extends) and pivot it inside the seattube. I've torqued my clamp to 5.5nm and applied carbon paste. My frame is the 18' Pivot Mach 5.5.

    Thoughts or solutions?
    I'm not sure what you're experiencing. Are you saying that you can spin the post lower in the frame after it's tight? 30.84mm is well within tolerance for a 30.9mm post.

    Please give me some more info to troubleshoot.

    Thanks,
    Jon

  157. #157
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    I was having wrist issues because the matchmaker mounted lever was protruding too far to the left. I ordered the right side SRAM mmx adaptor and switched the lever over and it fixed the issue. Lever was moved over about half an inch. Just the right amount.

  158. #158
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    I have just installed the 180mm v2 with the 2.1 actuator on a Medium Bronson v3.

    Its only sticking out by about 2.5cm (could probably go down as low as 2cm).

    It has replaced a 150mm v1 which I left sticking out by about 5.5cm (could have probably had it lower - I think from memory down to 3.5cm, but wanted extra seat height for full leg extension for climbing and also to ensure better reliability given actuator problems with the SC Bronson v3 frame).

    Overall very happy with the v2 and the 2.1 actuator - looking forward to the first test ride tomorrow morning.


    a couple of questions for OneUp however:


    1. Does the actuator need to be fully tightened in to the body of the dropper? The way that the cable is routed through the Bronson frame is to the right of centre (while sitting on the bike) so having the actuator facing that direction is helpful to its reliability - fully tightening would actually make it face leftwards leadeing to an akward angle for the cable.


    2. Is it possible to obtain the alluminium "screw" that is used by the barrel adjuster - it is very soft and mine has snapped due to cable tension. I would prefer not to spend a lot of money on a new remote when only one small cheap part of it has broken.

    Many thanks

  159. #159
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    Hey Jon so I have had the 210 version 2 post for a bit now and itís been working out nicely. I didnít get along with your guys lever, maybe if I had the right side matchmaker but by then I already had the wolftooth standard lever and the LA lever was only 20.00 vs the oneup and then a matchmaker. Anyhow now that Iíve had some time on it after lubricating the version 2.1 actuator and installing the LA wolftooth lever it has been working out great.

    Now Iím just working dialing in the drop I want. 210 fits my frame but Iím starting to think itís a little lower than I want, Iím thinking itís subconsciously making me squat down lower leading to my quads fatigue on longer runs. Iíll probably test at 200 in the next few rides and then 190 but I thought Iíd see if you guys have any info like a database of what height riders prefer what drop. I know itís all personal preference just seeing if there is an avg. you guys have found. Iíd be a 6ft rider with 34Ē inseam. Itís definitely better and more confident inspiring than the 170 reverb I had but now just trying to dial in that perfect amount.

  160. #160
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jesse Hill View Post
    Now Iím just working dialing in the drop I want. 210 fits my frame but Iím starting to think itís a little lower than I want, Iím thinking itís subconsciously making me squat down lower leading to my quads fatigue on longer runs. Iíll probably test at 200 in the next few rides and then 190 but I thought Iíd see if you guys have any info like a database of what height riders prefer what drop. I know itís all personal preference just seeing if there is an avg. you guys have found. Iíd be a 6ft rider with 34Ē inseam. Itís definitely better and more confident inspiring than the 170 reverb I had but now just trying to dial in that perfect amount.
    I am also 6'0" with a 34" in seam. I ran 210mm for a while but decided to drop it to 200mm (that's where I'm happiest). I'm afraid we don't have much of a database. My gut is 6'1"+ is 210mm, 5'8"+ is 180mm, 5'3"+ 150mm, 120mm only is you are dealing with a tough frame.

    Cheers,
    Jon @ OneUp

  161. #161
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    Hi Jon, are you able to get back to me on the two questions above? Thanks

  162. #162
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    Sorry, missed these questions:

    Quote Originally Posted by Grim View Post
    1. Does the actuator need to be fully tightened in to the body of the dropper? The way that the cable is routed through the Bronson frame is to the right of centre (while sitting on the bike) so having the actuator facing that direction is helpful to its reliability - fully tightening would actually make it face leftwards leadeing to an akward angle for the cable.
    Yes it does need to be fully tightened. If not, the dropping motion could rotate the actuator eventually causing it to disconnect.


    Quote Originally Posted by Grim View Post
    2. Is it possible to obtain the alluminium "screw" that is used by the barrel adjuster - it is very soft and mine has snapped due to cable tension. I would prefer not to spend a lot of money on a new remote when only one small cheap part of it has broken.
    Where are you located? Hit us up at [email protected] for warranty of the barrel adjuster. Alternatively is it a standard part that is available at any LBS.

    I hope that helps,
    Jon

  163. #163
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    New V2 is working well, but one weird thing that I saw someone else mention here. The first time I use the trigger, it's really hard to pull. After that it's easy. Like something is hanging up on the actuator but then smooths out. Is there a way to avoid this, afraid the cable is going to slip based on how hard I have to push the release the first time. This is true whether I'm on or off the bike seat unweighted.

    Thanks,

    Mark
    Last edited by Mark16q; 08-25-2019 at 06:59 AM.
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  164. #164
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark16q View Post
    New V2 is working well, but one weird that that I saw someone else mention here. The first time I use the trigger, it's really hard to pull. After that it's easy. Like something is hanging up on the actuator but then smooths out. Is there a way to avoid this, afraid the cable is going to slip based on how hard I have to push the release the first time. This is true whether I'm on or off the bike seat unweighted.

    Thanks,

    Mark
    So I had the exact same situation and even had the cable slip multiple times. Iíve since completely greased the version 2.1 actuator and went to the wolftooth LA lever and itís gotten a ton better. First actuation is still a bit detenty but it is a ton better and over the course of a whole ride its been good.
    Last edited by Jesse Hill; 08-25-2019 at 01:57 PM.

  165. #165
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    Hi Jon,
    I have a question - is the dropper remote body V2 match with Sram trigger clamp? On pictures it looks very similiar to yours handelbar clamps.

    Thanks

  166. #166
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jesse Hill View Post
    So I had the exact same situation and even had the cable slip multiple times. Iíve since completely greased the version 2.1 actuator and went to the wolftooth LA lever and itís gotten a ton better. First actuation is still a bit detenty but it is a tone better and over the course of a whole ride its been good.
    Actually did slip first time out and figured it was me not tightening enough. I didnít check the box for the free v2 actuator and now regretting that. Is there a way to still get that no cost?
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  167. #167
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    Quote Originally Posted by mati_luk View Post
    Hi Jon,
    I have a question - is the dropper remote body V2 match with Sram trigger clamp? On pictures it looks very similiar to yours handelbar clamps.
    Yes, The remote body works natively with the SRAM MMX adapter

    Quote Originally Posted by Mark16q View Post
    New V2 is working well, but one weird thing that I saw someone else mention here. The first time I use the trigger, it's really hard to pull. After that it's easy. Like something is hanging up on the actuator but then smooths out. Is there a way to avoid this, afraid the cable is going to slip based on how hard I have to push the release the first time. This is true whether I'm on or off the bike seat unweighted.
    This is normal and will improve with use.

    When the new post sits for a while (overnight for example) the oring inside the valve that is inside the cartridge conforms to the valve making is slightly more difficult to actuate the first time. Subsequent actuations are easy because the oring doesn't have time to conform. It should not be hard enough to slip the cable though. The cable bolt can be made very tight. It also has nothing to do with the remote or the post actuator.

    I hope that helps,
    Jon @ OneUp

  168. #168
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    Quote Originally Posted by OneUp View Post
    Yes, The remote body works natively with the SRAM MMX adapter



    This is normal and will improve with use.

    When the new post sits for a while (overnight for example) the oring inside the valve that is inside the cartridge conforms to the valve making is slightly more difficult to actuate the first time. Subsequent actuations are easy because the oring doesn't have time to conform. It should not be hard enough to slip the cable though. The cable bolt can be made very tight. It also has nothing to do with the remote or the post actuator.

    I hope that helps,
    Jon @ OneUp
    Post worked great today and I found that keeping all the tension out of the cable helped with the first pull. Any slack at all made for rough pull. No creaking, returned with authority and did what it was supposed to do. Really impressive piece, especially considering cost. Thinking Iíll be selling my revive rather than trying to figure out how to lower stack height.
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  169. #169
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    210mm V2 dropper: is anyone else having rattling problems? Any high speed rooty sections or chattery rocks yield an extremely annoying rattling sound like someone put a handful of plastic marbles in my frame.

    There is also WAY more play in this dropper than my other two OneUp 170mm V1 droppers. The saddle knocks back and forth and that is what is causing the sound.

    Is anyone else experiencing this with the 210mm post? I have to say, if something is not extremely loose in there and it cannot be fixed, that will be a deal breaker for this thing. I'll dig deeper into it tomorrow. Kind of annoying though with only two rides on it. It did the same thing on the first ride too.
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  170. #170
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    Quote Originally Posted by *OneSpeed* View Post
    210mm V2 dropper: is anyone else having rattling problems? Any high speed rooty sections or chattery rocks yield an extremely annoying rattling sound like someone put a handful of plastic marbles in my frame.

    There is also WAY more play in this dropper than my other two OneUp 170mm V1 droppers. The saddle knocks back and forth and that is what is causing the sound.

    Is anyone else experiencing this with the 210mm post? I have to say, if something is not extremely loose in there and it cannot be fixed, that will be a deal breaker for this thing. I'll dig deeper into it tomorrow. Kind of annoying though with only two rides on it. It did the same thing on the first ride too.
    Yeah, when the post is extended it rattles pretty good. Don't notice when it's dropped. It has noticeable fore aft play which seems a bit concerning.

  171. #171
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeremy3220 View Post
    Yeah, when the post is extended it rattles pretty good. Don't notice when it's dropped. It has noticeable fore aft play which seems a bit concerning.
    That's not good.

    Mine definitely rattles when it's part way down too, not just when it's all the way up.
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  172. #172
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    Quote Originally Posted by *OneSpeed* View Post
    210mm V2 dropper: is anyone else having rattling problems? Any high speed rooty sections or chattery rocks yield an extremely annoying rattling sound like someone put a handful of plastic marbles in my frame.

    There is also WAY more play in this dropper than my other two OneUp 170mm V1 droppers. The saddle knocks back and forth and that is what is causing the sound.

    Is anyone else experiencing this with the 210mm post? I have to say, if something is not extremely loose in there and it cannot be fixed, that will be a deal breaker for this thing. I'll dig deeper into it tomorrow. Kind of annoying though with only two rides on it. It did the same thing on the first ride too.
    We're really sorry to hear that you are experiencing some rattling with your post. This is not a common issue, but we've seen it a few times and have traced it back to a missed assembly operation.

    The tight clearances between the upper tube and the cartridge, required for assembly, can occasionally result in a knock between the inside of the upper tube and the outside of the cartridge. We have a simple fix for you to add in the missed step and silence the rattle that you are experiencing. The attached process details the steps that you can take. It's a one beer job and should take no more than 15 minutes.

    Apologies again for the inconvenience.

    Reference - https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/05...exploded-A.pdf

    1 - Remove the post from your bike and put it in a mid travel position.
    2 - Remove your Seat, Clamps (1-4), and Valve Cover (5).
    3 - Unscrew Cartridge Lockring (6) using a pair of needle-nose pliers.
    4 - Unscrew Actuator (16) using either a 17mm wrench (V2) or a 14mm wrench (V2.1)
    5 - Slide Cartridge (14) out of Upper Tube (7) while it is still attached to Actuator (16)
    6 - Apply two wraps of electrical tape to the main body of Cartridge (14) 40mm from the end.
    OneUp Dropper V2-image.jpg
    7 - Reinstall Cartridge (14) into Upper Tube (7) - It should now be a snug fit.
    8 - Screw Actuator (16) back into Lower Tube (12)
    9 - Activate Actuator (16) to fully extend the post
    10 - Reinstall Cartridge Lockring (6) using a pair of needle-nose pliers.
    11 - Reinstall Valve Cover (5).
    12 - Reinstall your Post, Seat and Clamps (1-4).

    Jon @ OneUp

  173. #173
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    Hi Jon,

    Is the above rattle fix applicable if the post rattles in the fully up position or dropped? Mine rattles if the post is fully up and unweighted.

    I'm also having an issue with the post not returning properly, though need to try adding more air. It's also making a squeaking noise when lowering the post the last inch or so, any ideas?

    V2 180mm with the V2.1 actuator if that makes any difference.

    Thanks

  174. #174
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    Quote Originally Posted by OneUp View Post
    We're really sorry to hear that you are experiencing some rattling with your post. This is not a common issue, but we've seen it a few times and have traced it back to a missed assembly operation.

    The tight clearances between the upper tube and the cartridge, required for assembly, can occasionally result in a knock between the inside of the upper tube and the outside of the cartridge. We have a simple fix for you to add in the missed step and silence the rattle that you are experiencing. The attached process details the steps that you can take. It's a one beer job and should take no more than 15 minutes.

    Apologies again for the inconvenience.

    Reference - https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/05...exploded-A.pdf

    1 - Remove the post from your bike and put it in a mid travel position.
    2 - Remove your Seat, Clamps (1-4), and Valve Cover (5).
    3 - Unscrew Cartridge Lockring (6) using a pair of needle-nose pliers.
    4 - Unscrew Actuator (16) using either a 17mm wrench (V2) or a 14mm wrench (V2.1)
    5 - Slide Cartridge (14) out of Upper Tube (7) while it is still attached to Actuator (16)
    6 - Apply two wraps of electrical tape to the main body of Cartridge (14) 40mm from the end.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    7 - Reinstall Cartridge (14) into Upper Tube (7) - It should now be a snug fit.
    8 - Screw Actuator (16) back into Lower Tube (12)
    9 - Activate Actuator (16) to fully extend the post
    10 - Reinstall Cartridge Lockring (6) using a pair of needle-nose pliers.
    11 - Reinstall Valve Cover (5).
    12 - Reinstall your Post, Seat and Clamps (1-4).

    Jon @ OneUp

    "have traced it back to a missed assembly operation"

    "Apply two wraps of electrical tape to the main body of Cartridge (14) 40mm from the end"

    Does this mean post's have "electrical tape" factory installed?

  175. #175
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    Quote Originally Posted by fathomer View Post
    Is the above rattle fix applicable if the post rattles in the fully up position or dropped? Mine rattles if the post is fully up and unweighted.

    I'm also having an issue with the post not returning properly, though need to try adding more air. It's also making a squeaking noise when lowering the post the last inch or so, any ideas?
    Yes, this fix will quiet the rattle completely. Please check the air and make sure the seat collar is not too tight. If that doesn't correct the issue, email us at [email protected]

    Quote Originally Posted by keen View Post
    Does this mean post's have "electrical tape" factory installed?
    Yes that is correct. The gap is so small <0.25mm that a plastic tape (electrical tape) is used as a bumper between the upper tube and the cartridge.

    Jon @ OneUp

  176. #176
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    Quote Originally Posted by OneUp View Post
    Yes, this fix will quiet the rattle completely. Please check the air and make sure the seat collar is not too tight. If that doesn't correct the issue, email us at [email protected]

    Jon @ OneUp
    Thanks Jon, upping the pressure to nearly 300psi (it was well below 200) seems to have sorted the return. I won't know for certain till I get a ride in next weekend.

    Still have a funny squeak type noise in the last inch or so of drop. If it doesn't go in the next couple if rides I'll drop you a mail.

  177. #177
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    I've also noticed the ratteling noise just after a couple of rides.
    Heres a video of it:

    https://youtu.be/VVDsZgPwebA

    I only notice it, when pedaling out of the saddle with the post extended all the way.

    Will this be fixed with the electrical tape?
    I've also noticed, that the seatcollar (Number 8, mid cap assembly) come loose from time to time.

  178. #178
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    Quote Originally Posted by HOBA View Post
    I've also noticed the ratteling noise just after a couple of rides.
    Heres a video of it:

    https://youtu.be/VVDsZgPwebA

    It only noticed it, when pedaling out of the saddle with extended post.

    Will this be fixed with the electrical tape?
    Yes, that video clearly shows the problem. I haven't worked on mine yet, I'll report back on how effective the fix is.

    I've also noticed, that the seatcollar come loose from time to time.
    The seatpost collar on the frame? That is an unrelated issue. Hit it with some grease and torque it to 4nm.
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  179. #179
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    Quote Originally Posted by *OneSpeed* View Post
    The seatpost collar on the frame? That is an unrelated issue.
    No sorry, I meant the ĄNumber 8, mid cap assemblyď.

  180. #180
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    Quote Originally Posted by HOBA View Post
    I've also noticed the ratteling noise just after a couple of rides.
    I only notice it, when pedaling out of the saddle with the post extended all the way.

    Will this be fixed with the electrical tape?
    Yup that is the knock that is eliminated with the process above.

    Quote Originally Posted by HOBA View Post
    I've also noticed, that the seatcollar (Number 8, mid cap assembly) come loose from time to time.
    You'll need to use a strap wrench to tighten the collar. Alternatively you can clamp the collar in a bike stand and use both hands on the lower to get it nice and tight.

    If you still have it loosening contact [email protected] and ask for TRAVEL SHIMS KIT - V2 (Part number SP1C0051). The kit contains an oversized oring that replaces oring 8d in the following exploded view. It would be free of charge if you are continuing to have loosening issues.

    https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/05...exploded-A.pdf

    https://can.oneupcomponents.com/coll...l-shims-kit-v2

    I hope that helps,
    Jon @ OneUp

  181. #181
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    V2 Problem

    Jon,

    Super cool you are here on the forum answering people's questions. Amazing for a company to be so forthcoming!

    I got a 180mm V2 about two weeks ago. I have only managed to get on 2 rides. Today, during the second ride, I noticed that my dropper post started to act like a suspension seat post. It bounces about 5mm when hitting some bumps while climbing and in fully extended position. When I drop it just slightly, or completely, the bounce goes away. Also, when the bounce occurs, it always goes back to full extension, I don't have to actuate the lever to get it to return to full extension. To me it seems I may have received a defective cartridge. I live in the Middle East, and I got my post mail order from a German shop. Before I sent it back to them for warranty and possibly to loose my post for several weeks, or longer, I thought I would check out MTBR to see if there was anyone else with this problem.

    Any thoughts?

    By the way, other than the bounce, I love how it has functioned. Much better than the BrandX it replaced! Oh and I have it on my 2017 Santa Cruz Chameleon with a WT remote.

    Here are two pics:
    Before the ride:
    OneUp Dropper V2-img_7797.jpg


    After the ride:
    OneUp Dropper V2-img_1227.jpg

  182. #182
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    Quote Originally Posted by stinkydogfart View Post
    Jon,

    Super cool you are here on the forum answering people's questions. Amazing for a company to be so forthcoming!

    I got a 180mm V2 about two weeks ago. I have only managed to get on 2 rides. Today, during the second ride, I noticed that my dropper post started to act like a suspension seat post. It bounces about 5mm when hitting some bumps while climbing and in fully extended position. When I drop it just slightly, or completely, the bounce goes away. Also, when the bounce occurs, it always goes back to full extension, I don't have to actuate the lever to get it to return to full extension. To me it seems I may have received a defective cartridge. I live in the Middle East, and I got my post mail order from a German shop. Before I sent it back to them for warranty and possibly to loose my post for several weeks, or longer, I thought I would check out MTBR to see if there was anyone else with this problem.

    Any thoughts?

    By the way, other than the bounce, I love how it has functioned. Much better than the BrandX it replaced! Oh and I have it on my 2017 Santa Cruz Chameleon with a WT remote.

    Here are two pics:
    Before the ride:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    After the ride:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Just a quick thought or two:

    1- Check the cable tension at the remote. Maybe de-tension it just a bit.
    2- What is your PSI? Mine is at 275psi and is def ideal. Comes up fast for sure even when my shorts get in the way and requires no "un-weighting" to drop it.

  183. #183
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    Quote Originally Posted by OneUp View Post
    We're really sorry to hear that you are experiencing some rattling with your post. This is not a common issue, but we've seen it a few times and have traced it back to a missed assembly operation.

    The tight clearances between the upper tube and the cartridge, required for assembly, can occasionally result in a knock between the inside of the upper tube and the outside of the cartridge. We have a simple fix for you to add in the missed step and silence the rattle that you are experiencing. The attached process details the steps that you can take. It's a one beer job and should take no more than 15 minutes.

    Apologies again for the inconvenience.

    Reference - https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/05...exploded-A.pdf

    1 - Remove the post from your bike and put it in a mid travel position.
    2 - Remove your Seat, Clamps (1-4), and Valve Cover (5).
    3 - Unscrew Cartridge Lockring (6) using a pair of needle-nose pliers.
    4 - Unscrew Actuator (16) using either a 17mm wrench (V2) or a 14mm wrench (V2.1)
    5 - Slide Cartridge (14) out of Upper Tube (7) while it is still attached to Actuator (16)
    6 - Apply two wraps of electrical tape to the main body of Cartridge (14) 40mm from the end.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    7 - Reinstall Cartridge (14) into Upper Tube (7) - It should now be a snug fit.
    8 - Screw Actuator (16) back into Lower Tube (12)
    9 - Activate Actuator (16) to fully extend the post
    10 - Reinstall Cartridge Lockring (6) using a pair of needle-nose pliers.
    11 - Reinstall Valve Cover (5).
    12 - Reinstall your Post, Seat and Clamps (1-4).

    Jon @ OneUp
    Thanks for the fast and thorough reply. I followed the procedure and installed the tape. It is OK when the dropper is all the way up, but unfortunately when it's half way, or in any position other than all the way up, there is a ton of play. It rattles back and forth and makes a ton of noise.

    I'm having a hard time uploading the video but I'd be happy to e-mail it to you.

    Is there something else I can check or adjust? Is this a known issue?
    Rigid SS 29er
    SS 29+
    Fat Lefty
    SS cyclocross
    Full Sus 29er (Yuck)

    Stop asking how much it weighs and just go ride it.

  184. #184
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    Quote Originally Posted by svinyard View Post
    Just a quick thought or two:

    1- Check the cable tension at the remote. Maybe de-tension it just a bit.
    2- What is your PSI? Mine is at 275psi and is def ideal. Comes up fast for sure even when my shorts get in the way and requires no "un-weighting" to drop it.
    Thanks for the suggestions!

    With the Wolf Tooth Remote I have to run it loose to get the proper rotational position that is comfortable for my thumb. So plenty of slack there. As far as pressure, I have it set at 260 psi. It actuates smooth and fast. Quick to drop, like you say never having to unweight it before dropping. It pops up fast and smooth with a definite light clunk as it reaches full extension. All in all it is a really nice and smooth dropper no issues besides this annoying bounce. I am going to try to put the 10mm travel reducer pins in and see if it does it there, it doesnít do it when I drop the post 10 mm..

  185. #185
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    Quote Originally Posted by stinkydogfart View Post
    Super cool you are here on the forum answering people's questions. Amazing for a company to be so forthcoming!
    No problem. Our post is super easy to work on. People just need the information to understand the system. This is a great place to build that knowledge base.

    Quote Originally Posted by stinkydogfart View Post
    I noticed that my dropper post started to act like a suspension seat post. It bounces about 5mm when hitting some bumps while climbing and in fully extended position. When I drop it just slightly, or completely, the bounce goes away. Also, when the bounce occurs, it always goes back to full extension, I don't have to actuate the lever to get it to return to full extension.
    This is a very weird issue as it only has a few of the symptoms for any given issue:

    Option 1 - The cartridge is faulty and has air on the oil side. We have not seen this issue on V1 or V2 but it would cause a bounce. The problem is that that bounce would be anywhere in the travel, not just the top.

    Option 2 - The top nut under the seat clamp is loose. This would cause free movement of the upper post at any point in the mid stroke but not when fully up. Also the movement would not be a bounce it would be free play.

    Option 3 - The cartridge valve is not fully closed so the post is sinking. This would require that you press the lever to return the post to full height.

    As you can see it doesn't match any of these troubleshooting options. Please try the shimming idea that you suggested. If that doesn't work we'll get you a cartridge replacement to rule the cartridge out. Just copy this conversation into an [email protected] email.

    Jon

  186. #186
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    Ok, I did some more investigation. I installed all 6 reducer shims, and corrected my seat height accordingly. There is still bounce. I also noticed that with the shims and once I removed them, there is some sag, movement, when I first put weight on the post.

    I also tried to tighten the top nut near the air valve. It just rotates the whole cartridge assembly in the seat post. I can't get it to tighten or loosen.

    I followed these, but I'm stuck with the whole cartridge rotating:

    1 - Remove the post from your bike and put it in a mid travel position.

    2 - Remove your Seat, Clamps (1-4), and Valve Cover (5).
    3 - Unscrew Cartridge Lockring (6) using a pair of needle-nose pliers.
    4 - Unscrew Actuator (16) using either a 17mm wrench (V2) or a 14mm wrench (V2.1)
    5 - Slide Cartridge (14) out of Upper Tube (7) while it is still attached to Actuator (16)
    6 - Apply two wraps of electrical tape to the main body of Cartridge (14) 40mm from the end.

    7 - Reinstall Cartridge (14) into Upper Tube (7) - It should now be a snug fit.
    8 - Screw Actuator (16) back into Lower Tube (12)
    9 - Activate Actuator (16) to fully extend the post
    10 - Reinstall Cartridge Lockring (6) using a pair of needle-nose pliers.
    11 - Reinstall Valve Cover (5).
    12 - Reinstall your Post, Seat and Clamps (1-4).

    I don't see how you can stop the rotation to tighten or loosen this nut. In my mind, if you use a spanner socket on the bottom 4 pin cap, you would risk loosening that cap to the internals of the cartridge if the top nut didn't immediately come loose. The lower shaft that comes out of the cartridge is free to rotate, so if you hold it, the body of the cartridge still rotates with the top nut.

    Anybody have any ideas for me to try? OneUp has been super cool over email, but I thought I would also put an update here.

  187. #187
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    Quote Originally Posted by OneUp View Post
    This is a great place to build that knowledge base.

    Jon
    I have a question that you might be able to help with.

    I bought the 150mm v1 for a build on a size L commencal supreme sx frame. The issue im going to have is the clearance in the seatube for a cable is extremely tight, as in you have to force it past the main high pivot then down around the bottom bracket bearing and back up through the seattube. I am highly doubtful that there will be enough play for the housing to freely move and actuate the dropper.

    Will the V2 with the 2.1 actuator help with this? Also is the 150 v2 much shorter than the v1?

    Thanks in advance,
    Marcus
    greener pastures

  188. #188
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    Quote Originally Posted by ATXZJ View Post
    I have a question that you might be able to help with.

    I bought the 150mm v1 for a build on a size L commencal supreme sx frame. The issue im going to have is the clearance in the seatube for a cable is extremely tight, as in you have to force it past the main high pivot then down around the bottom bracket bearing and back up through the seattube. I am highly doubtful that there will be enough play for the housing to freely move and actuate the dropper.

    Will the V2 with the 2.1 actuator help with this? Also is the 150 v2 much shorter than the v1?

    Thanks in advance,
    Marcus
    The v1 total length is 442mm for the 150mm. The v2 design is def more compact with the 150mm coming in at 420mm. All measurements quoted include the actuator length. I've had both V1 and now V2...the 2.1 actuator on the V2 (check the box when you buy) will help out for sure with this in my opinion. Its just a simple cable pull now.

  189. #189
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    Quote Originally Posted by svinyard View Post
    The v1 total length is 442mm for the 150mm. The v2 design is def more compact with the 150mm coming in at 420mm. All measurements quoted include the actuator length. I've had both V1 and now V2...the 2.1 actuator on the V2 (check the box when you buy) will help out for sure with this in my opinion. Its just a simple cable pull now.
    Thanks for the quick response! Yeah, that's probably the way I'm gonna have to go to make this work.
    greener pastures

  190. #190
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    For anyone else considering doing the same, I've just put a OneUP dropper 150mm v2 post on my small sized 2019 YT Jeffsy carbon. Enough tube to have it slammed. Working fine with the e*Thirteen lever from the post its replacing. Reused the same inner and outer cable. Took a couple of goes tightening and loosing of cable tension at the lever to get the ferrule at the post end to bed in. Had to be careful not too tighten the seat post clamp too much.

    it goes down low, it goes all the way up, it goes anywhere in-between. what an improvement on the e****Thirteen! 😄

  191. #191
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    I can't figure out what the point of the 2.1 actuator is. It isn't shorter. It doesn't move the extended part over since both sides protrude as much as the center piece of the 2.0. It does move the cable over, but not by much.

  192. #192
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    Quote Originally Posted by ATXZJ View Post
    I am highly doubtful that there will be enough play for the housing to freely move and actuate the dropper.

    Thanks in advance,
    Marcus
    The housing doesn't move when the lever is pushed.

  193. #193
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    Quote Originally Posted by Schulze View Post
    The housing doesn't move when the lever is pushed.
    The housing does move when you push the lever with a v1 or v2 2.0 actuator. Its just the housing near the 2.0 actuator, not the whole thing. I have a v1 and v2 in hand and on bike. Grab your v1 (when its out of the bike) and try to actuate it with your hand. You have to push the green tip of the actuator into the post about 4mm and pop...the post will extend. The cable does nothing but help pull the housing into the actuator tip pushing it 4mm into the post to initiate extension. So...for SC bikes where it was to tight for this to work...the v2 2.1 actuator was required. The 2.1 actuator uses the cable head to pull down on a small lever inside the 2.1 actuator, thus extending the post. I'm sure I'm not using the ideal verbiage but you get the gist.

    The 2.1 actuator is a welcome improvement imo having had both v1 and v2. Good design and still keeps the post ultra short (which is awesome). Great dropper.

  194. #194
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    Quote Originally Posted by Schulze View Post
    I can't figure out what the point of the 2.1 actuator is. It isn't shorter. It doesn't move the extended part over since both sides protrude as much as the center piece of the 2.0. It does move the cable over, but not by much.
    The 2.0 relies on the housing to be able to move as the housing is what actuated the post. This doesnít work in frames the have no room to leave the cable housing loose in the seat tube or frames that have the housing run though tight tubes (SC lower link bikes are used as the example). The 2.1 actuator the housing is fixed and never moves, now you no longer need to leave slack in the seat tube so you have effectively more room to lower the post (doesnít need to leave clearance for loose housing) and doesnít rely on the housing being able to move in the frame.

  195. #195
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    Did the tape trick and it worked. Also changed the actuator to a V2.1 and initial impression is that the remote feels smoother.

    2018 Ibis Ripmo
    2016 Transition TransAM 275

  196. #196
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    Sounds to me like the 2.1 actuator should come stock.

  197. #197
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    Quote Originally Posted by majorjake View Post
    Sounds to me like the 2.1 actuator should come stock.
    The V2.1 will be a running change. All 200mm now have 2.1s and the rest will follow over the coming months. The V2.0 is just as smooth provided you have the 4mm of housing slack inside the frame (this is a tiny amount that almost all bikes have). The SC low slung shocks have incredibly tight tube-in-tube routing so we needed to make something available immediately at launch.

    I hope that helps,
    Jon

  198. #198
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    On the Ripmo I suspect the difference between the actuators is related to the design of the entry port for the housing. There is a sharp edge and no rubber grommets on the seattube entry port. When pulling on the housing it slides against the sharp edge giving friction. Combine that with me having a L frame and a 180mm post almost totally slammed... not a lot room for the housing to move freely. With bigger and smoother entry ports it would likely work the same with both actuators.

  199. #199
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jesse Hill View Post
    The 2.0 relies on the housing to be able to move as the housing is what actuated the post. This doesnít work in frames the have no room to leave the cable housing loose in the seat tube or frames that have the housing run though tight tubes (SC lower link bikes are used as the example). The 2.1 actuator the housing is fixed and never moves, now you no longer need to leave slack in the seat tube so you have effectively more room to lower the post (doesnít need to leave clearance for loose housing) and doesnít rely on the housing being able to move in the frame.
    I see that now, thanks. I didn't look at them too closely, just swapped them and installed.

  200. #200
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    Just to be clear. Oneup is changing all the droppers to the v2.1? If not, why wouldn't you want to get the v2.1 that only pulls the cable and not the housing? What would be the benefit from the housing moving?

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