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  1. #401
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    Quote Originally Posted by skywalker991 View Post
    you misunderstood my point.
    I dont think l did, l chose to ignore the first world problems, and focus on the main mis-information, and price is very important to a lot of people
    always mad and usually drunk......

  2. #402
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    Quote Originally Posted by cmg71 View Post
    I dont think l did, l chose to ignore the first world problems, and focus on the main mis-information, and price is very important to a lot of people
    If you ignoring the first world problems why did you get a dropper post in the first place

    My point was that Oneup comes with absolutely nothing in the box except malfunctioning post :-) This wasn't a biggie for me but something to keep in mind. For example, Fox Transfer comes with outer and inner etc. that's ~£20 easy these days where profit margins on little things are extorionate. There was no mis-information in my post. You just read what you wanted to read :-)

  3. #403
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    Quote Originally Posted by skywalker991 View Post
    If you ignoring the first world problems why did you get a dropper post in the first place

    My point was that Oneup comes with absolutely nothing in the box except malfunctioning post :-) This wasn't a biggie for me but something to keep in mind. For example, Fox Transfer comes with outer and inner etc. that's ~£20 easy these days where profit margins on little things are extorionate. There was no mis-information in my post. You just read what you wanted to read :-)
    Fox transfer comes with nothing in the box. The inner and outer come in the box with the Fox remote.

  4. #404
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    Quote Originally Posted by skywalker991 View Post
    The post is going back where it came from. I love the low stack but Oneup needs to get back to the drawing board; bad design, bad quality control and bad execution. Even at half price it's money wasted if it doesn't work properly.
    I'm very sorry you had this experience. We stand behind the product and would like to get you a replacement. We recently caught and fixed an issue with the broach that causes the problem you describe but the number of affected posts was tiny. The fact that you got two is uncanny. Please e-mail us at info@oneupcomponents.com so you can get you taken care of. If you'd still like to send the post back for a refund I understand.

    Quote Originally Posted by phuchmileif View Post
    This is starting to sound like my experience with the X-fusion Manic.

    Published reviews are 100% positive. Everyone claims the post is a simplified, dead reliable game-changer at the $200 price point.

    And you know what? It ****ing sucked.
    Just to be clear you're describing the Manic not OneUp correct?

    Quote Originally Posted by *OneSpeed* View Post
    ^ these guys know how to rant! Kudos!

    Some valid complaints above. I've experienced a couple myself. The shim thing is effin ridiculous. (for the record I don't need a shim, I use a 170 at full length with room to spare). It should come free with every post, period. It also should not have been made available until the shims were available. Big mistake IMO.
    I agree the shim is ridiculous. We vastly under estimated the shim popularity and have sold out multiple times. The shims are available with every lever and will be back in stock on there own shortly.

    Quote Originally Posted by skywalker991 View Post
    As a customer I don't really care whether it's 1st, 2nd or 5th gen. I want a reliable product that does what it supposed to. Droppers been around for a while and it's not a rocket science. Btw, when do you know which gen. is the "finished" one? are you prepared to buy each gen. and find out the hard way. I am not. I'm not paid to test their stuff or have time to do so. Oneup should have focused on designing and testing this dropper rather than sweet talkin$ reviewers. It will take a lot of convincing before I pick another Oneup product. my 3c.
    I agree here as well. I assure you your experience is not typical. I hope you'll let us prove that to you in the future.

    Jon. Owner @ OneUp

  5. #405
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    The prices in the link l gave include post/remote/cable/shim.......
    actually, everything you need, ok instructions are shitty but with half a brain anyone can work it out

    Im sorry you lucked out with your post, l didnt and am pretty stoked with it. (if you need a shim, l'll send you mine)

    Quote Originally Posted by skywalker991 View Post
    If you ignoring the first world problems why did you get a dropper post in the first place

    My point was that Oneup comes with absolutely nothing in the box except malfunctioning post :-) This wasn't a biggie for me but something to keep in mind. For example, Fox Transfer comes with outer and inner etc. that's ~£20 easy these days where profit margins on little things are extorionate. There was no mis-information in my post. You just read what you wanted to read :-)
    always mad and usually drunk......

  6. #406
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    Quote Originally Posted by OneUp View Post
    Just to be clear you're describing the Manic not OneUp correct?

    Jon. Owner @ OneUp
    Yes, I was venting on the Manic. And then on the dropper market in general- like I said, just disappointed to hear that it seems like a not-insignificant amount of people are having problems.

    To your credit: I have seen no dropper threads, period, where everyone is having a flawless experience. Even with $400-500 posts. And I much appreciate manufacturers that come to these forums to hear people out and try and make sure that everyone is taken care of.

    As negative as I may sound- I actually have one of your posts on order. I considered pursuing another option, but that was part of my rant...there's nothing else out there, especially in the $200-300 pricerange, that it making me say 'okay, THAT'S the one!'

    I was trying to get the OneUp on my Commencal before a bike park trip next week, but it looks like I'm going to have to stick with the Manic (which already has an RMA ticket open, LOL) for a few more rides until your post comes back into stock at Jenson.

  7. #407
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    Quote Originally Posted by phuchmileif View Post
    Yes, I was venting on the Manic. And then on the dropper market in general- like I said, just disappointed to hear that it seems like a not-insignificant amount of people are having problems.

    To your credit: I have seen no dropper threads, period, where everyone is having a flawless experience. Even with $400-500 posts. And I much appreciate manufacturers that come to these forums to hear people out and try and make sure that everyone is taken care of.

    As negative as I may sound- I actually have one of your posts on order. I considered pursuing another option, but that was part of my rant...there's nothing else out there, especially in the $200-300 pricerange, that it making me say 'okay, THAT'S the one!'

    I was trying to get the OneUp on my Commencal before a bike park trip next week, but it looks like I'm going to have to stick with the Manic (which already has an RMA ticket open, LOL) for a few more rides until your post comes back into stock at Jenson.
    There's always Gravity Dropper if you want a relaible dropper.
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  8. #408
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    after about 4 months of use, my dropper started to have a grindy or crunchy noise when moving the dropper down? i keep it fairly clean and wipe off the stanchion after every ride.
    2017 yeti sb6c turq x01 eagle

  9. #409
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    Quote Originally Posted by useport80 View Post
    after about 4 months of use, my dropper started to have a grindy or crunchy noise when moving the dropper down? i keep it fairly clean and wipe off the stanchion after every ride.
    Mine developed a similar feeling. Unscrew the collar/dust wiper, raise the bushing, wipe it down with a clean rag, apply a thin layer of Slick Honey, actuate, re-apply another thin coat if necessary, then put it back together.

    This completely solved my gritty feeling and slow return. It now pops up like it did when new.
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  10. #410
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    Quote Originally Posted by useport80 View Post
    after about 4 months of use, my dropper started to have a grindy or crunchy noise when moving the dropper down? i keep it fairly clean and wipe off the stanchion after every ride.
    Same here :-( Been perfect for 4½ months but the last cuple rides it has been binding a bit at the top and today all of a sudden major grinding noises, not returning fully, hard to push down etc. Why is it so hard to get a decent dropper that just works!?

    Edit: Will have to try the fix described above, but it sounds really bad so my expectations are quite low... Wish me luck ;-)

  11. #411
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    Quote Originally Posted by *OneSpeed* View Post
    Mine developed a similar feeling. Unscrew the collar/dust wiper, raise the bushing, wipe it down with a clean rag, apply a thin layer of Slick Honey, actuate, re-apply another thin coat if necessary, then put it back together.

    This completely solved my gritty feeling and slow return. It now pops up like it did when new.

    If I were you I would NOT do that. I used to have Giant dropper post and did exactly that. The dropper wasn't smooth to start from but not grindy per se but started to grind properly after a short period of time....Took it to Giant service and they told me off for this (they said it's not good for seals + it attracts dirt) Oneup may be different in this regard but it would be good to confirm with Oneup first. Either way, it shouldn't grind in the first place.

  12. #412
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    Quote Originally Posted by OneUp View Post
    I'm very sorry you had this experience. We stand behind the product and would like to get you a replacement. We recently caught and fixed an issue with the broach that causes the problem you describe but the number of affected posts was tiny. The fact that you got two is uncanny. Please e-mail us at info@oneupcomponents.com so you can get you taken care of. If you'd still like to send the post back for a refund I understand.

    Jon. Owner @ OneUp
    Thanks for chipping in. 2 shots are usualy enough for me :-) Especially, when turnaround for each is 1 month due to supply issues. Plus if I install & uninstall another dropper again anytime soon I'm going to cry ;-) So I'm going through a refund route. Anyways, I've purchased BikeYoke 160mm instead, took it for a test ride yesterday and it's everything I wanted really...low stack, buttery smooth operation of a dropper and lever. Hopefully it's as reliable as Fox Transfer. Good luck with your venture.
    Last edited by skywalker991; 09-27-2018 at 05:41 AM.

  13. #413
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    Quote Originally Posted by skywalker991 View Post
    If I were you I would NOT do that. I used to have Giant dropper post and did exactly that. The dropper wasn't smooth to start from but not grindy per se but started to grind properly after a short period of time....Took it to Giant service and they told me off for this (they said it's not good for seals + it attracts dirt) Oneup may be different in this regard but it would be good to confirm with Oneup first. Either way, it shouldn't grind in the first place.
    Eeerrrh... I just did that :-/ Nah, just kidding it's all good ;-)

    OneUps own service guide tells you how to service it. I just did it to test if it would make a difference, before spending time trying to service it properly. It didn't really do anything but that was expected. I'll give it a proper service in the weekend and if that does not help I'll probably have to ask OneUp for a new cartridge or a refund as I'm a bit dissapointed as for now. 4 month of not very much use does not bode well for longevity... ;-(

  14. #414
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    Hello everyone! So one up send me a new actuator assembly! That's surprisingly good, so I have installed it immediately. Very good customer support!
    About dropper: I also have zero play in this dropper, this is a bit mind blowing because all of my other dropper posts do have a side play. Remote lever is extremely smooth, I have my left thumb broken a bit, and that is an only remote tell which makes no pain to my hand. So nice!
    Anyway dropper itself have a bit of drag, I put Sram butter underneath the collar, but bontrager dropper works more smoothly. And actuator itself a bit strange design, it pulls the cable with housing to dropper, this creates movements of cables in my internal routing bicycle frame, well, nothing serious, but just a strange design.

    Отправлено с моего SM-A520F через Tapatalk

  15. #415
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cocabonga View Post
    About dropper: I also have zero play in this dropper
    Two of my oneup droppers had the usual side to side play...just like Giant, Fox Transfer. My new Bikeyoke has almost zero. Saying that I don't notice how this impacts my riding in the slightest. Smooth operation up/down certainly does.

  16. #416
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cocabonga View Post
    Hello everyone! So one up send me a new actuator assembly! That's surprisingly good, so I have installed it immediately. Very good customer support!
    About dropper: I also have zero play in this dropper, this is a bit mind blowing because all of my other dropper posts do have a side play. Remote lever is extremely smooth, I have my left thumb broken a bit, and that is an only remote tell which makes no pain to my hand. So nice!
    Anyway dropper itself have a bit of drag, I put Sram butter underneath the collar, but bontrager dropper works more smoothly. And actuator itself a bit strange design, it pulls the cable with housing to dropper, this creates movements of cables in my internal routing bicycle frame, well, nothing serious, but just a strange design.

    Отправлено с моего SM-A520F через Tapatalk
    The cable housing moves enough that I lubed where it enters the frame. This is the only negative so far on this post.

  17. #417
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    I cleaned my post stantion last night with a rag that had some alcohol on it and then all of the sudden the post was sticking in the last 20mm or so. No more thunk to the top. Good thing it was an easy fix: (some info from OneUp here too as they quickly got back to me)

    Add a little waterproof grease (ie. Slickoleum, Slick Honey, Wet Seal, Silicon Shine), below the main bushing under the seal head and cycle the post. Depress the post a little, unscrew the post collar, extend the post and grease the bushing. You can even remove the bushing (there is a slice in it) and clean it/grease it. OneUp that found due to our tight tolerances it takes sometime for the post to bed in. I did reduce my torque from 6nm to 4nm during my testing...but that had no effect and my seatpost sticks out 2-3 inches from the seat collar anyways. Its now at 4.5nm but again it had no issue at 6 so this wasn't my issue. The final thing (critical for me, as after greasing it wasn't perfect yet), I left my bike upside down over night. Woke up this morning and BAM, the post is flawless and even smoother now (my own greasing was helpful for this). Also ensure your PSI is between 250-300...I bumped mine up to close to 300 and its perfect, I like the little extra speed and louder thunk (doesn't hurt my nuts either).

    It was nice that I could do all of this without needing a single tool either. Pretty cool.

  18. #418
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    I'm about to give up on this thing. Installed it, worked great, then I took it for a 3 mile ride and now it refuses to return. If it's slammed to the collar it will pop up about 20 mm, anywhere else in it's travel and it just sits there. I have tried replacing the cable, remote and upping the pressure (to 300psi). Also, nowhere on OneUp's website do they have a phone # or general info email where you can contact them. I really want to like this post, but I may have to look elsewhere.

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  19. #419
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    Quote Originally Posted by jskinner10 View Post
    I'm about to give up on this thing. Installed it, worked great, then I took it for a 3 mile ride and now it refuses to return. If it's slammed to the collar it will pop up about 20 mm, anywhere else in it's travel and it just sits there. I have tried replacing the cable, remote and upping the pressure (to 300psi). Also, nowhere on OneUp's website do they have a phone # or general info email where you can contact them. I really want to like this post, but I may have to look elsewhere.

    Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
    Let me help you out. Email super easy to find, scroll to the bottom and there is a "Contact us" link with several options. info@oneupcomponents.com will work just fine. I got responses back in less than 24hrs.

    But lets see if we can get your post fixed up. Its good to try things one at a time to truly see what the issue is methodically.

    1- First off, try the barrel adjustment. Tighten the cable a bunch and see if the cable tension was potentially off or it slipped out of the remote a bit. My dropper was slowly dropping as I rode yesterday, I had my cable too tight. Adjusted the barrel to loosen it and it was back to perfect. (using WT LA remote).

    2- reduce the torque down to 3mm just to see if that makes a significant change. I thought that was my issue but it wasn't and my post works fine with 6nm on carbon bike.

    3- Manually pull your post out enough, like 70% (not the whole way). Then unscrew the top collar of the dropper (not your seatpost collar which is bolted on). Then hit the remote and the post should pop out and the white bushing will come with it too. It should come out even more aggressively now since it isn't sealed or fighting the bushing. Worse case, pull the lever and pull the seat up.

    Video showing how to remove the collar for shim:

    4- Remove the bushing (there is a slice in it). Clean it and lube with slick honey above and below it. Try to get some in the collar seals as well by putting a touch on the stantion and running the collar up and down.

    5- Reassemble it back together and only put 3nm of torque (make sure this is true).

    6- Leave the bike upside down overnight.

    My post was sticking towards the top of the travel (tho the post sticks out of seattube about 3in...sounds like yours is slammed). I did all of this in about 15 minutes and in the morning my post was even better than normal. Something tells me your seat post collar is over-torqued tho and you didn't list your settings. The fact that slamming it (putting more of the post beneath the collar) further exacerbates the issue is a clue to this imo. Good luck!

  20. #420
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    Quote Originally Posted by cytoe View Post
    The cable housing moves enough that I lubed where it enters the frame. This is the only negative so far on this post.
    So you have to ensure that your entire run of cable housing can move? I've got internal routing with covers at both ends that lock down onto the housing to keep it from rattling around. also the entry into the seat tube is tight and the cable catches on the frame's chipped paint.

    Can you keep a little extra slack in the housing at the bottom of the post to account for movement?

    I wonder if this was why my first attempt at actuating it didn't work, I pushed on my lever so hard and nothing happened. I wonder if the housing wasn't budging at all and therefore not doing anything?

    EDIT: I think i got it, Just the last section from the down tube to the seat tube has some movement in it, and I greased up the grommet on the seat tube. Initially, I was setting it up without the grommet and the housing was catching on sharp edges of the inlet slot on the seat tube.

    EDIT: I experienced an issue with how far the post was in the bike. I could feel it bottom out in the seat tube where my linkage is, but was hoping the actuator wasn't affected and went through. The post kept sinking in travel and not staying down. Raising it up a few mm stopped that. So just because the main post part goes in all the way, keep in mind there still might be some pressure on the actuator depending on your frame.
    Last edited by ashwinearl; 10-06-2018 at 01:48 PM.

  21. #421
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    Is there a correct orientation for the green end piece at the bottom of the post? I see how you put the cable end through the window and insert the cable end into the bottom of the post. But this removable green piece can be oriented two ways. It can go right on or you can rotate it so you can't see the cable end.





    I am assuming now that it is like the last picture. Because so far I tried it like the 2nd picture and the cable end keeps coming out. But I also just learned that the entire housing needs to move to actuate and I think my housing is locked pretty tight with the covers of the internal cable routing.

  22. #422
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    My housing is ultra tight because of my port covers and some ultralight foam tubing literally stuffed into the large cable port above my BB on the downtube. The thing works great. I can't imagine the cable housing is moving back and fort to actuate? OneUp says iirc that you want to ensure the cable/housing is snug when inserting the post. So I pulled on it slightly from the bars while slowly inserting the post in.

  23. #423
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    I packed a healthy dose of grease under/around the seal and bushing. I also backed off on the seat post clamp to about 4nm. These two things seem to have solved the issue. Hopefully this is the end of issues with this post because when it works, it's pretty fantastic.
    Quote Originally Posted by svinyard View Post
    Let me help you out. Email super easy to find, scroll to the bottom and there is a "Contact us" link with several options. info@oneupcomponents.com will work just fine. I got responses back in less than 24hrs.

    But lets see if we can get your post fixed up. Its good to try things one at a time to truly see what the issue is methodically.

    1- First off, try the barrel adjustment. Tighten the cable a bunch and see if the cable tension was potentially off or it slipped out of the remote a bit. My dropper was slowly dropping as I rode yesterday, I had my cable too tight. Adjusted the barrel to loosen it and it was back to perfect. (using WT LA remote).

    2- reduce the torque down to 3mm just to see if that makes a significant change. I thought that was my issue but it wasn't and my post works fine with 6nm on carbon bike.

    3- Manually pull your post out enough, like 70% (not the whole way). Then unscrew the top collar of the dropper (not your seatpost collar which is bolted on). Then hit the remote and the post should pop out and the white bushing will come with it too. It should come out even more aggressively now since it isn't sealed or fighting the bushing. Worse case, pull the lever and pull the seat up.

    Video showing how to remove the collar for shim:

    4- Remove the bushing (there is a slice in it). Clean it and lube with slick honey above and below it. Try to get some in the collar seals as well by putting a touch on the stantion and running the collar up and down.

    5- Reassemble it back together and only put 3nm of torque (make sure this is true).

    6- Leave the bike upside down overnight.

    My post was sticking towards the top of the travel (tho the post sticks out of seattube about 3in...sounds like yours is slammed). I did all of this in about 15 minutes and in the morning my post was even better than normal. Something tells me your seat post collar is over-torqued tho and you didn't list your settings. The fact that slamming it (putting more of the post beneath the collar) further exacerbates the issue is a clue to this imo. Good luck!
    Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

  24. #424
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    oddly enough, when i first got my post, it was 2.5nm on the seat collar and everything worked fine. today, 2-3 months later, i find that even 2nm is too much. it sticks, and goes up 85-90%, then i just have to pull it up. as of right now, i've fastened it to 1.5nm and it seems to shoot back up normally again. not sure wtf happened.
    2017 yeti sb6c turq x01 eagle

  25. #425
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    Quote Originally Posted by useport80 View Post
    oddly enough, when i first got my post, it was 2.5nm on the seat collar and everything worked fine. today, 2-3 months later, i find that even 2nm is too much. it sticks, and goes up 85-90%, then i just have to pull it up. as of right now, i've fastened it to 1.5nm and it seems to shoot back up normally again. not sure wtf happened.
    That's not right imo. Far to little torque. Do the above procedure and leave the bike upside down and see if it fixes it. I had the exact same issue and it fixed it better then the ultra low torque.
    Last edited by svinyard; 10-05-2018 at 11:22 PM.

  26. #426
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    Quote Originally Posted by jskinner10 View Post
    I packed a healthy dose of grease under/around the seal and bushing. I also backed off on the seat post clamp to about 4nm. These two things seem to have solved the issue. Hopefully this is the end of issues with this post because when it works, it's pretty fantastic.

    Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
    Glad it worked out for you. Don't hesitate to leave the bike upside down overnight. That was the final game changer for me. Not sure exactly why but it made the difference and the fork was better than new (still is). Cheers!

  27. #427
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    Quote Originally Posted by svinyard View Post
    That's not right imo. Far to little torque. Do the above procedure and leave the bike upside down and see if it fixes it. I had the exact same issue and it fixed it better then the ultra low torque.
    when you say leave it upside down, are you hanging it upside down by the tires? or are you simply putting it on the resting on the handlebars and saddle?
    2017 yeti sb6c turq x01 eagle

  28. #428
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    Quote Originally Posted by useport80 View Post
    when you say leave it upside down, are you hanging it upside down by the tires? or are you simply putting it on the resting on the handlebars and saddle?
    Handlebars and saddle. I'm sure hanging it by the tires too

  29. #429
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    Same 20mm stuck problem to me today. That dropper is total faulty. Now tried to grease and the upsidd down method but don’t trust so much in it. I think I’ll ask for refund and go for another one.

  30. #430
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    delete
    Last edited by Chicane32; 3 Weeks Ago at 06:57 PM.

  31. #431
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    I got a OneUp dropper 6 months ago and have been VERY happy with it until a few days ago.
    When pushing the lever, dropper post does not return to its full extension. The air pressure is set at 275psi. (Verified with two different shock pumps) The seat collar is tightened to the recommended spec by my bike manufacture. I have followed the service instructions provided on the oneup website step by step and applied a fresh coat of slick honey to the specified components. The cable is tensioned properly.

    Let me know if anyone has any ideas what is wrong. I just sent out a warranty request, so I'll see what OneUp also has to say.

  32. #432
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    Geez dude... Did you even read any of the thread above?

  33. #433
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    Quote Originally Posted by svinyard View Post
    Geez dude... Did you even read any of the thread above?
    I started reading from the beginning, so I got tired before I got to your posts [2 weeks ago]. So the key is to keep the bike upside down? Is this a long term fix?

  34. #434
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    Quote Originally Posted by RBoardman View Post
    I started reading from the beginning, so I got tired before I got to your posts [2 weeks ago]. So the key is to keep the bike upside down? Is this a long term fix?
    Its hard to say exactly what the deal is, but mine has been exceptional except for that one day I cleaned the stantion with alcohol and didn't let it dry before I cycled it. The tolerances in the bushing are very tight (a good thing).

    I wouldn't say the fix is only about an upside down bike, tho that seemed to be a critical and easy part of my fix. I removed the bushing, cleaned it and regreased it. I put a decent amount of slick honey also below the bushing area and above near the seal. My torque is right at 5nm today and working well. I'd do the whole thing (its fast) and then turn it upside down for the night.

    Why I turned it upside down, at least initially, was that when I cycled the fork accidentally with the collar and bushing loose...I saw a white looking grease on the stantion. That made me think perhaps that grease was critical in the upper portion.

    Who knows, but the process has worked for some people. Kind of a quick shotgun approach.

    FWIW, I could tell my issue was where the bushing and the collar and seal come together. I knew this because my 170mm post sticks out of my seat tube like 3-4in (I'm 6-4) and when the collar/bushing were loose...the post cycled aggressively and quickly. When I put the bushing and collar back on...it wouldn't cycle all the way...stopping about 20mm from finishing despite 300psi. So I greased the heck out of the bushing (after I removed and cleaned it), collar and seal and flipped the bike for a night. Back to being amazing for the last month or so iirc. Good luck dude

  35. #435
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    Is there some kind of semibath oil in there too that gets into the top of the post when you turn it upside down? Is this is similar to a suspension fork with semi bath between the outer legs and stanchions. Turning the fork upside down helps get the semi bath to the upper seals.

    I am just wondering what is it about turning this post upside down that works.

    You mentioned seeing a white grease under the bushing? It would have to be thin enough to move to make turning it upside down effective.



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  36. #436
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    Quote Originally Posted by ashwinearl View Post
    Is there some kind of semibath oil in there too that gets into the top of the post when you turn it upside down? Is this is similar to a suspension fork with semi bath between the outer legs and stanchions. Turning the fork upside down helps get the semi bath to the upper seals.

    I am just wondering what is it about turning this post upside down that works.

    You mentioned seeing a white grease under the bushing? It would have to be thin enough to move to make turning it upside down effective.



    Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
    Not sure man. It wasn't necessarily under the bushing but came from down further into the post and only showed up after I cycled it. It wasn't a liquid by any means but simply jogged my mind to try out what I do for Forks. I can't explain why turning it upside down worked exactly, but it def helped my bike. Perhaps it was the slick honey that slowly bled overnight upwards into the seals or something. Regardless, it doesn't hurt. Maybe after greasing it, it just took a night to bed in a bit or something to that effect and having my bike upside down had zero effect.

  37. #437
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    Lubed up the shaft and flipped this bad girl on her back for the night. wait, am I on the right forums....

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    What kind of lube? I have Fox 20 wt semi bath oil and slikoleum. As well as more traditional grease, bike lube.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ashwinearl View Post
    What kind of lube? I have Fox 20 wt semi bath oil and slikoleum. As well as more traditional grease, bike lube.

    Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
    Slick Honey is what I use. I think that may be the same/similar as Slikoleum.


    Any improvement RB? Sounds like you lubed the shaft...fwiw I put a fair amount of slick honey below the bushing (after cleaning it), below the collar and above the collar. It wasn't as minimal as just a shaft lube. Hoping that worked out for you.

  40. #440
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    Quote Originally Posted by svinyard View Post
    Slick Honey is what I use. I think that may be the same/similar as Slikoleum.


    Any improvement RB? Sounds like you lubed the shaft...fwiw I put a fair amount of slick honey below the bushing (after cleaning it), below the collar and above the collar. It wasn't as minimal as just a shaft lube. Hoping that worked out for you.
    I lubed everything and it is back to extending 98-100% of its travel. It still doesn’t feel like new, but there was definitely some merit into turning it upside down.

    OneUp responded and said that shouldn’t happen regardless, and that they would send me a new post. So shout out to them for the great customer service.

  41. #441
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    Quote Originally Posted by RBoardman View Post
    I lubed everything and it is back to extending 98-100% of its travel. It still doesn’t feel like new, but there was definitely some merit into turning it upside down.

    OneUp responded and said that shouldn’t happen regardless, and that they would send me a new post. So shout out to them for the great customer service.
    You might hit it again with honey, upside down again...and then up the PSI to 300 just for the moment. Loosen your seatpost collar a bit down to maybe 4nm temporarily. It should come back to top with gusto and a thwack sound.

  42. #442
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    Ok, after a little ways into my ride the seat post went back exactly the way it was before of not returning to its full length.

    Oh well, new one on its way.

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    I just installed mine, and maybe already having problems with it. Only one ride so far but I noticed it was getting pushed down about an inch just from my weight on it. I needed to have it all the way down in the frame for my correct saddle height, so I guessed it was maybe getting pushed/triggered slightly. I installed the shim to shorten it, it's maybe better, not sure yet. Apart from that it's still finicky. If I push it down just a bit (which would never happen with regular use), it wants to come up by itself slowly. If I push it down a normal amount, it says there and comes up as it should when the lever is pushed.

    We'll see...

  44. #444
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    I had this issue at first too. My carbon frame has internal webbing in the seat tube that limits the max insertion of a seatpost. It is only on one side and I thought the actuator and cable housing would go through while the outside if the post would hit the webbing.

    First time I installed it, the seat wouldn't hold my weight. I raised it by few mm and it stopped doing that.

    This style of post is sensitive to the actuator being pushed in which is what happens when you pull on the cabke. The housing pushes the actuator into the bottom of the post. This is different than the cable itself pulling on something like other posts.

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  45. #445
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    Quote Originally Posted by nemesis256 View Post
    I just installed mine, and maybe already having problems with it. Only one ride so far but I noticed it was getting pushed down about an inch just from my weight on it. I needed to have it all the way down in the frame for my correct saddle height, so I guessed it was maybe getting pushed/triggered slightly. I installed the shim to shorten it, it's maybe better, not sure yet. Apart from that it's still finicky. If I push it down just a bit (which would never happen with regular use), it wants to come up by itself slowly. If I push it down a normal amount, it says there and comes up as it should when the lever is pushed.

    We'll see...
    try loosening the cable tension on your remote. I can make my post do this (slowly recess a bit over time) by adding too much tension on my Wolftooth light action remove. A half turn on the barrel adjuster and it all goes away.

  46. #446
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    Quote Originally Posted by ashwinearl View Post
    I had this issue at first too. My carbon frame has internal webbing in the seat tube that limits the max insertion of a seatpost. It is only on one side and I thought the actuator and cable housing would go through while the outside if the post would hit the webbing.

    First time I installed it, the seat wouldn't hold my weight. I raised it by few mm and it stopped doing that.

    This style of post is sensitive to the actuator being pushed in which is what happens when you pull on the cabke. The housing pushes the actuator into the bottom of the post. This is different than the cable itself pulling on something like other posts.

    Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
    If you pull on the housing when installing (keeping a light tension on the housing as you insert the post), you shouldn't have this problem and should be able to get full insertion....theoretically at least .

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    Quote Originally Posted by svinyard View Post
    try loosening the cable tension on your remote. I can make my post do this (slowly recess a bit over time) by adding too much tension on my Wolftooth light action remove. A half turn on the barrel adjuster and it all goes away.
    Just did that and I think it fixed it, thanks!

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    Quote Originally Posted by albeant View Post
    Just FYI, the bottom of the actuator (along with the housing) is actually pulled up on actuation, while the cable end stays static. That was the cause of my install problem, as the housing needs to be able to move up and down freely in the seat tube.
    The original KS internal posts worked this way. Eventually they bind on something, depending on your frame. It’s a stupid design that KS fixed. The whole purpose of a cable housing is to protect the cable and provide a low friction environment for it to move. I’d get a Bike yoke or a KS over the one up for this reason.

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    Quote Originally Posted by OneUp View Post
    Sorry for the delay in getting on here. Couldn't comment before the official release and PB comment section goes mental

    Yes, The cartridge is a user replaceable, sealed gas/hydraulic unit. warranty on the unit is 2 years. Replacement cost after warranty is $80.

    Cheers,
    Jon @ OneUp
    I bought a 150mm version and I was wondering can the 170 cartridge be installed to transform my 150 version to 170 travel?

  50. #450
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    so it's designed for the cable housing to move in and out of the frame when the lever is actuated? I have mine installed properly and everything works great, except that the cable housing can be seen moving when it's actuated. I've since upgraded my cable housing to Shimano SP41 and I felt that it made the actuation smoother than the Jagwire that was installed. But the cable housing still moves up and down when pressed.

  51. #451
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    Quote Originally Posted by maximo View Post
    I bought a 150mm version and I was wondering can the 170 cartridge be installed to transform my 150 version to 170 travel?
    The 170 and 150 posts are different so just changing the cartridge won't lengthen the post.

    Cheers,
    Jon @ OneUp

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