Need some advice on dropper posts please- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Need some advice on dropper posts please

    Hi all, first time poster here. I知 just getting into mountain biking after a 25 year hiatus and so much has changed. I just got a sort of new old stock 2014 Ellsworth Absolute Truth carbon bike and I知 well pleased with it. Now I壇 like to get a dropper post for it. I talked with a knowledgeable guy at PNW Components and he took a look at pics and specs of my bike and determined that I would need an externally routed post and recommended their Cascade post. That seemed like a good choice to me but then I was reading about the electronic Magura post and the cleaner setup appeals to me so now I知 torn between the two. Does anyone have experience with both and can you recommend one over the other? Thanks very much

    Craig

  2. #2
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    Almost = Didn't

  3. #3
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    If you want an electronic post, get the SRAM AXS post, not Magura.

    That said, externally routed remote post are fine too.
    Do the math.

  4. #4
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    If you are running an external routed post is it going internally through the top tube? Can you fit another cable through the opening?

    If so you could also drill a little hole in the seat tube to use an stealth dropper. You are second hand owner anyways so no warranty worries and the bike is 6 yrs old. Start with the smallest drill bit possible and keep going up in size.

    Here is a cheap and reliable external dropper that I have used:
    https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/.../rp-prod159176

    I wouldn't put the Vyron or AXS on that bike.

  5. #5
    fuggansonofahowa
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    Drilling holes in a carbon frame is like fingernails on a chalkboard to me. I'd go full-external before potentially weakening a previously stressed plastic frame. There is a reason for a manufacturer's warranty regarding this kind of action. It's not advised for structural integrity or longevity. The longevity part has been partially used up already.

    It'll come down to budget. You can do external cable much cheaper than wireless. I would say external cabled droppers are less maintenance, but I'd be lying. For the love of covid, it's a dropper post! Expect heartaches, an empty wallet and bloody knuckles with whatever post you choose. But honestly, they are getting better (referring to reliability and not price, btw). If you really want wireless and can poop Benjis, get the Sram AXS. Personally, I'd put the money toward a new ride should you get hooked again. I had a 10 year hiatus and I'm back.......in debt......but my poses are stellar.

  6. #6
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    Cervelo actually endorsed drilling holes in their frames way back when to make holes for Di2. It can be done and done correctly or incorrectly. On closer inspection though I think it would be hard to drill straight into that small triangle. It is pretty blocked off

    If I could drill though drilling a hole would be my second option because no way am I putting an $800 dollar dropper on a bike worth less than that.

    Buy the dropper I linked. It will be neither expensive ($100), nor cause heartache. I have had 3 different Brand X droppers and all performed flawlessly.

    Are you sure you can fit another cable in the internal routing hole in the front?

  7. #7
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    Thanks for all the advice. I just ordered the PNW Cascade and I値l just run the cable externally if theY won稚 go through the top tube

  8. #8
    fuggansonofahowa
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    YRD: I'm not trying to bash your idea of drilling your frame. It just gives me the willies, especially with used carbon. To me, it doesn't seem worth the risk for a dropper. I don't see the advantage either, since it's not a clean internal routing. There will still be exposed cable and the maintenance will be wonky. IMO, many more negatives to positives and not exactly the clean look the OP is wanting to achieve.

    Anyway, external is a good choice. At one time, there was no other option, and it didn't look THAT bad if routed correctly. Easy off-and-on, and cable replacement was a breeze.

    I hope you regain your passion, Velorider. Eventually you'll be all in for a new, modern bike soon if the bug sticks. I'd suggest you sell one of your children to the human traffickers. It helps alleviate the sticker shock of modern day tech, but worth it. This is not your old school mountain biking of the 1990's. Cheers, gents.

  9. #9
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    Didn't take it as bashing. Just putting out options. If it was a brand new bike then I wouldn't mention such an extreme fix, but it is an older out of warranty frame.

    Also I think if the OP can't fit the cable in the front hole he should dremel it out a bit as that should be reinforced anyways from Ellsworth drilling the initial hole. Otherwise it looks like he is going to have to ziptie the cable to the frame. No one wants that.

  10. #10
    since 4/10/2009
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    Quote Originally Posted by yourrealdad View Post
    Otherwise it looks like he is going to have to ziptie the cable to the frame. No one wants that.
    Hardly the only alternative.

    https://jagwire.com/products/small-p...tick-on-guides

    There are similar products all over the place if you look.

  11. #11
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    Have you had good luck with those? Mine always came unstuck

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by yourrealdad View Post
    Have you had good luck with those? Mine always came unstuck
    I've never used them, but the really good 3m tape held on my water bottle cages for years. It could easily hold that on.

  13. #13
    since 4/10/2009
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    Quote Originally Posted by yourrealdad View Post
    Have you had good luck with those? Mine always came unstuck
    it's all about prep work for the spot where you want to stick them. they'll hold plenty well enough if you do it right.

    also, get the ones with good adhesive. Not the cheap crap with the no-name adhesive you can find everywhere.

  14. #14
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    Just to update - I got the PNW Cascade dropper and when I started to install, I realized there was room and another guide opening in the top tube of my frame to route the housing. Installation was a snap and it looks clean and works great! Question - I usually let my bike mounted in my Park work stand by the seat post. Anybody know if that will negatively affect the dropper?

  15. #15
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    If it's extended fully, no issues hanging it by the seat. Don't have it partially extended or fully compressed then hang it.

  16. #16
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    Update to my ~2 week old Cascade PacNW, signifcantly more rotational play than both my transfer and my bikeyoke revives (both several years old). Not super impressed by this, but it was pretty cheap too. If it doesn't get a lot worse I'll be ok, but this is still fat-biking season, no big hucks/jumps.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

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  17. #17
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    Is this a dead giveaway that I should have ordered a 170 instead of the 150 AXS dropper to maximize drop? For reference, this is a medium SB130 frame

    Need some advice on dropper posts please-dropper-travel.jpg

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by zzzogas413 View Post
    Is this a dead giveaway that I should have ordered a 170 instead of the 150 AXS dropper to maximize drop? For reference, this is a medium SB130 frame
    Not necessarily. You need the extra room inside the frame too.

    Check out our dropper length calculator and it will let you know what length Reverb you could fit. (AXS has the same dimensions as Reverb B1).

    https://can.oneupcomponents.com/page...st-selector-v2

  19. #19
    Trail Ninja
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    Cool calculator. Simple and elegant.

    I did all the math myself to find out what I'd need to fit a 210mm dropper for my inseam. It's 720mm from BB to saddle rail clamp, running 152 cranks and relatively thick pedals to get it that high. To get clearance from clamp to collar, the seat tube needs to be about 380mm itself. The entire seat tube needs to be straight too. Potential issue is where the cable exits--if the cable exits the seat tube itself through a drilling, it'd need to be quite low to account for the actuator and the bend in cable. Makes sense since 150mm droppers are almost slammed for me on bikes with 175mm cranks and 420mm seat tube.

    Sad to see that my urge to upsize to L for a bit of extra reach puts me at 460mm seat tube lengths. I manage to barely fit on a 125mm dropper with a 165mm crank in this case. Long travel dropper compatibility is a very compelling reason to upgrade--love how much leg susp travel is unlocked with a really slammed seat.
    "The challenge is not in developing new ideas, but in escaping old ideas."

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by zzzogas413 View Post
    Is this a dead giveaway that I should have ordered a 170 instead of the 150 AXS dropper to maximize drop? For reference, this is a medium SB130 frame
    No, the point isn't to be able to run the seat flush with the bottom of the seat tube. That is NOT the point of a dropper post. The point is to give you a more favorable position for descending, cornering, and even sometimes some uphill stuff. Besides the fact that some frames have seat tubes that end well below where you'd want to run post at, the longer the post, the more problematic they become, the more play you will have, the heavier it will be to be properly reinforced, the quicker you'll be wearing it with all that leverage, etc. If you want, and can fit, more drop, it can be a good thing, but IMO it's diminishing returns when you start getting around 170 and more.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

    You're turning black metallic.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jayem View Post
    No, the point isn't to be able to run the seat flush with the bottom of the seat tube. That is NOT the point of a dropper post. The point is to give you a more favorable position for descending, cornering, and even sometimes some uphill stuff. Besides the fact that some frames have seat tubes that end well below where you'd want to run post at, the longer the post, the more problematic they become, the more play you will have, the heavier it will be to be properly reinforced, the quicker you'll be wearing it with all that leverage, etc. If you want, and can fit, more drop, it can be a good thing, but IMO it's diminishing returns when you start getting around 170 and more.
    Thanks. I guess I should have prefaced saying that I've already determined that my frame can take a 170 no problem so I'm going to have it swapped.

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