KS LEV - DIY Cartridge Rebuild - Page 11- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1001
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    Anyone here uses the elbow adjuster? I find the placement weird whether it's on the left or right of the brake lever clamp. Placement is worse as I ride with levers nearly horizontal.

    I might end up with a shifter style remote...

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  2. #1002
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    I used it for a couple years without issue but now I run the KS Southpaw which eliminates use of the noodle. I'd recommend a Southpaw, especially the newest version. I've converted all my bikes over to it. They are very reasonably priced considering some of the ridiculous prices the newer aftermarket remotes are being priced!

  3. #1003
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    Quote Originally Posted by Oh My Sack! View Post
    Are you using a good spanner wrench on the fitting? I agree, it can be tough to get the threads to bite and you have to be cautious of cross threading but I use a Park Tool #2 Spanner that locks into the fitting well and allows even pressure to be applied to prevent cross thread. One thing I do is actually rotate the thread in the wrong direction (anti-clockwise) for a half turn until it indexes level and usually immediately engages correctly upon turning clockwise.
    Thanks for the reply, I figured out why it wouldn't thread. For some reason, I was thinking the bottom out bumper went inside of the cartridge, so that was preventing the cap from threading. Guess that'll teach me to follow directions better lol... Post is working great now!

  4. #1004
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    I second what Oh My Sack said. I also have had a few that were difficult and definitely had to keep the actuator depressed while threading it. Make sure to do a dry run with no oil to be sure the threads arenít already damaged.

    I also seem to recall one or two LEVs where I ran into this and ultimately had to reuse the old o-ring rather than the new one. The specs SHOULD be identical and I canít explain this but if you swapped the o-ring, you may want to try with the old o-ring once if youíre still struggling.

    Good luck and let me know how it goes.

    Chris

  5. #1005
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    Hi,
    can somebody tell me something about the last KS LEV SI. I have a problem to open the cartridge. At the bottom of the inner tube there is a small hole where I think is a kind of safety pin. At the moment I can not open this pin and also not open the lock cap at the bottom of the tube. Please see the photo below what I mean. Does anybody knows how to open The lock cap at the LEV Si.
    The safety pin is only at the LEV Si therefore please let me know if somebody knows for what it is.KS LEV - DIY Cartridge Rebuild-safety-pin-lev-si.jpg
    An allen key will not fit. It looks like a small round pin which is only insert to protect. There is no thread.

  6. #1006
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    It's exactly for that, not allowing to service it at home

  7. #1007
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    It also helps prevent that cap from unthreading which happens sometimes. I came across this on a LEV integra as well. If itís under warranty, send it in. If itís past warranty and your only other option is to buy a replacement cartridge anyway, there is a way to open it if you feel like trying.

    Youíll need to get a small drill and drill through that pin. Once itís gone, youíll be able to open the end cap. The hole you create will be beyond the o-ring so it wonít interfere with the seal. Obviously this voids warranty so I would only recommend this if youíre past warranty and youíve got nothing to lose.

    It looks like the damper shaft has already been removed in that photo. Did it unthread somehow or snap? If it snapped, youíll need to buy a new cartridge anyway.

    Good luck and let us know what happens.

    Chris

  8. #1008
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    At this photo, I pushed the damper shaft complete inside so that a lot of oil moves out. I will try to drill out the pin with a left drilling bit ( a very small one). Or maybe I try first to cut a 2mm thread inside and screw a small 2mmbold inside to pull out this pin.
    Are you sure that this is a pin and not a screw.
    Never mind when both solutions will not work than I cut of the pin with a small drill.

    But I think only the first 1mm. That means only the length of the pin where it goes through the black tube. Please let me know if I think right.

    I will work on it in CW 43. So I try to send some photos how I open it and what solution is the best.

    CU
    Soul

  9. #1009
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    When I encountered this, it looked more like a precise indent made by a machine rather than a pin or screw but Iíd probably still do the same drill technique. And yes, you only need to drill through the black part to release the cap. Good luck.

    Chris

  10. #1010
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    That little treat of a locking device was KS' answer to THIS thread! You can thank Chris!

    Joking aside, after so many rebuilds under my belt, and still probably far fewer than cakelly4, yhe <$60 to buy a new entire cartridge is, IMO, the best and easiest way to go. It's still DYI, you can have an extra on hand to eliminate down time because you know you can't ride without a dropper once you have, and you won't ruin anymore perfectly good t-shirts due to missed oil stains when you overexert your effort installing the damper assy! You'll see what I mean if you move forward with the rebuild.

  11. #1011
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    Haha. Agreed on all points. A replacement cartridge is WAY easier...BUT...if youíre tossing this one anyway...may as well try the rebuild.

    Chris

  12. #1012
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    Quote Originally Posted by Oh My Sack! View Post
    <$60 to buy a new entire cartridge is, IMO, the best and easiest way to go.
    I do not think that I can buy a new cartridge for the new LEV SI in Germany for less than 60$. Therefore I will try to made a service by myself. And if you did it one time it takes you maybe only 20 min. of time. At the moment I send it back to my seller because the dropper is still in warranty. If they decide that I destroy it then I will open the cartridge by myself.
    Yesterday I order a 1mm screw tap. I think I can pull out the pin very easily with that tool.

  13. #1013
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    Thanks Chris, I serviced my KS Lev 150TI a couple of days ago using these instructions.
    Like a new one now, full travel again, no sponginess and not moving when I lift the bike up by the seat.

  14. #1014
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    No problem. Iím glad this thread is still helping people out! Thanks for the update.

    Chris

  15. #1015
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    Anyone figure out how to make the ks lev adjustable travel like the oneup?
    I read the modification Peter V made which was a perfectly sized bushing to limit travel but when I emailed him, he said I would need to mill one out on a lathe. That's beyond my capabilities. I was wondering if anyone did something different.
    It would be cool to limit a 175mm dropper to 172.5mm.

  16. #1016
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    If you have a spare DU bushing, you could possibly remove the inner core, which is essentially an aluminum split ring with a tan slick coating. Fasten that around the stanchion between the copper guides and the normal DU bushing and it should prevent full extension.

    Iíve definitely never tested this but Iíve accidentally removed that inner ring from a few DU bushings. Seems like maybe that would work. Could also find some thin plastic pipe that is just bigger than the stanchion and cut a spacer to size. These are just thoughts. No idea how they would work.

    Chris

  17. #1017
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    Or maybe a new saddle with lower profile rails? Just another thought.

    Chris

  18. #1018
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    Thanks.
    I can experiment. I need to shorten my 175mm down 11mm.
    A while back someone did something crude but effective for his wife. He tied a string from the saddle to the seat clamp which limits how much travel the dropper can extend. Pretty clever.
    I think I can do that in a pinch.

  19. #1019
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    Quote Originally Posted by jacksonlui View Post
    Thanks.
    I can experiment. I need to shorten my 175mm down 11mm.
    A while back someone did something crude but effective for his wife. He tied a string from the saddle to the seat clamp which limits how much travel the dropper can extend. Pretty clever.
    I think I can do that in a pinch.
    You can do a nice job with zip ties. I did it for my 12-year-old.


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  20. #1020
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    Quote Originally Posted by Laterilus View Post
    Update:

    My IFP quad rings finally blew out this past weekend on my KS Dropzone. This is still relevant to LEV owners as both posts share the same IFP design and same size quad rings. In addition, the piston shaft quad ring is also the same. The air mixed with the oil internally but did not escape the cartridge so I determined that the internal seal head o-rings are still good.

    Luckily for me I was just leaving the woods and heading to my car when it happened. I felt a sorta "pop", then I sank down.

    Not a huge deal if it happened way back in the woods, but it is pretty cold right now and I prefer not removing my gloves while riding. For those curious, if this does happen to you, you can extend the post back to full height and use the Rockshox silver collar thing. Tighten it down really good on the bottom of the stanchion shaft. It will hold the saddle up and now you just have a normal seat post to get you out of the woods.

    All in all, I was pleased. 122 hours of use in total. I live in the midwest so I see very cold and very warm temperatures. We may not get the coldest or the hottest, but I bet the midwest sees the biggest flux in temperature. These IFP quad seals were used in 100F weather this past summer and all the way down to -1F this winter. I've already had 20 rides in sub freezing temps this winter and I actively used my dropper post (activating it. Not just keeping it at full extension) for all of those rides. I'm definitely a believer now in the quad ring design for these parts. If I was on my Reverb still, the o-rings would have gone bad well before the 122 hours I got out of the Kindshock.

    I could have simply done a re-grease and refresh on the oil, but again, I'm a firm believer that when this happens, it is time to change the o-rings or quad rings or it will probably happen again soon. It is tough to see wear on the quad rings compared to new ones, but you can see it if you look closely enough. No way for me to take a picture unless I had a high quality camera. Much more telling is the oil color. The Rockshox 2.5wt oil is pink when new. The color of my oil yellowish/tanish colored. In addition, there was a black "fog" floating around. O-ring scuz. Make no mistake, these o-rings do go bad over time. Best to just replace them.

    Speaking of which, I went to theoringstore.com to order up some more since I was pretty low on my quad rings. Right NOW is the time to buy! I guess this store has an overstock of quad rings. They are only $0.12 each! Typically the quads are $1 to $1.50 each. I bought 20 of each quad I needed including the quads that are used in my fork and rear shock. Might as well. I should never need any more than I have at this point. It is super cheap right now to get all you'll need for a very long time.
    so what are the correct size rings for inner and outer of ifp? Are the ones listed on 1st page of this thread correct ones still?
    Thanks

  21. #1021
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    Yes. Theyíre correct.

    Chris

  22. #1022
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    Anyone worried about tackling this job, just dive right in. I just did my KS Lev Integra and it was super easy. The only "special tool" I used was a set of axle vice adapters from Park Tools. A 7/8 open end wrench fit the actuator assembly perfectly. I would say it took me ~30 mins taking my time and I had this thread open on my ipad in front of me for reference. I refilled my post w/ 10wt fork oil because that's what I had and everything seems to be working well.

    Thanks!

    ac

  23. #1023
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    Hi all, been meaning to do my Lev DX for some time and took the plunge today. Followed the KS service video so far with no issues but have now got stuck. Ive taken the actuator assembly off, and the top collar, but I cant seem to free the shaft from the housing like they do in the KS video. I freed the DU busing carrier using the screwdriver method, but thats as far as I get. I can pull the shaft up and down (with some difficulty) but i cant pull it out... any tips?

  24. #1024
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    That is odd for sure. Without seeing your post, itís hard to know whatís going on there. I will say that a firm tug is usually necessary to remove the cartridge from the outer tube, but thatís usually because the DU bushing is firmly seated and some force is required to bump it out. If youíve already released the DU bushing, that seems odd. It also should slide in and out without much effort.

    Is this a DX integra or is it external cable routing? If external, is the Kevlar cable all jammed up in there? Could the post be clamped too firmly in the vice? Just spitballing here.

    Let us know what you find.

    Chris

  25. #1025
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    Its the external one. From what i can see, the cable is straight and in the chanel.

    In the end i hand held the stanching, and tapped the outer tube with a rubber mallet around the outside untill it let go. Still unsure why it was so stiff. There was a bit of accumulated mu in there, but nothing excessive. There do appear to be some rust coloured marks on the stanchion just above the guide bushings

  26. #1026
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    KS LEV - DIY Cartridge Rebuild-img_20181115_102134.jpg

    This is what the post looks like. The bushing collar was quite difficult to remove. It moves freely on most of the shaft, but hangs up where its marked.

  27. #1027
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    Your Roller Bearing is toast. Replace it while it's apart. Check the anodizing where the rust is located after cleaning it off. If you can feel even the slightest imperfection in the finish, trash it. The only thing that can rust in that system are the tiny springs that suspend the rollers themselves and that will muck up the rollers and introduce abrasive elements onto the stanchion. You can help prevent this in the future by greasing appropriately on reassembly but every so often, I'll unthread the top collar with the seat extended and pack some Slick Honey on top of the DU Bush/Collar then reattach the threaded collar good and hand tight, then cycle it a bunch. This will make that area around the collar dust seal more hydrophobic and prevent moisture from entering into the rollers.

    As I have stated previously, my new mantra, especially when I see things going afoul as in your post, is just replace the cartridge and start from scratch. You'll end up with a black one if you like. My first LEV was the DX and I used it for years with only 2 rebuilds. I loaned it to my bike shop owner friend that needed it for an emergency while a Command Post was getting rebuilt and taking weeks. I never got it back as it was my back up post. I got paid for it, though. I still wish I had it in inventory. It's really a great post and with a new cartridge, bearing, and DU bush, you'll be good for years to come.

  28. #1028
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    Thanks for the help, Oh my sack. I guessed as much. Its my back up post also, so no mad rush, but i'll order up some parts and get it sorted. The only thing thats led to it being replaced (with a OneUp Components dropper) is the external cable routing, both my bike frames have simple internal routing for a dropper which I prefer.

  29. #1029
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    While youíre at it, itís also a good time to replace your dust wiper. Otherwise, Oh My Sack has it covered.

    Chris

  30. #1030
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    Quote Originally Posted by cakelly4 View Post
    Or maybe a new saddle with lower profile rails? Just another thought.

    Chris
    I just swapped seats from a thinly padded & low pro rails type seat to an Alibaba copy cat version of the same seat and there is an honest 10mm difference in height between the two from rails to seating surface.

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  31. #1031
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    So my cartridge went a few months back and I bought a new one. Now 3 months down the road the new one is sinking. What gives ?!??!

    Regardless I crashed the other dAy. Now Iím getting a ton of clockwise/counter clockwise play and when the post is extended I can actually pull up on it maybe get a few mm and a clunk. Any ideas what it could be other then the cartridge? Never had this much movement In it. Other then that post work perfect


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  32. #1032
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    The 3 guide bushings could be damaged from excessive lateral forces from your crash. They're only a few bucks and an easy replacement.

    As for your cartridge failure, I'd ask whether or not you find yourself picking up your bike by the seat? Most all of us do. My contention is that with a hydraulic damper, you CANNOT do this when the seat is in its collapsed orientation. If you do, you an create a strong vacuum on the oil just like what we used to have to do when bleeding SRAM brakes with DOT fluid. Whenbyou put the oil under a vacuum it draws the gasses into the solution which creates an air pocket inthe sealed system allowing the post to sink. I never move my bike that way unless the post is fully extended. I have pretty much eliminated the sinking issue by doing so.

  33. #1033
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    I figured guide bushings. I usually just replace them and the du bushing every time I service Iíve just never had them fail. I never pick my bike up by the post but I did have it at the bike shop to do a caliper service and I didnít pull the dropper in hopes there would be no issues. Itís been looser ever since and now a more noticeable issue after a crash.

    You can hear the guide bushings knocking. Should I tare it down before it gets worse?


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  34. #1034
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    Ok and weirdest thing. I just checked the dropper and itís tight again. Also no lifting issue when itís fully extended. The last time I rode it was about 23 out to start but warmed to 34. Still a little sloppy when itís all the way down but that doesnít bother me. Does the cold really effect it that much?


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  35. #1035
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    Cold weather definitely does a number on them. I suspect the seals shrink and allow a bit of air to slip past the seals. Thereís a possibility that your cartridge will start having problems again soon but hopefully you lucked out.

    Chris

  36. #1036
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    Hi,

    do you guys tried the PTFE guide bushings instead the bronze ones?
    KS Lower Guide Bushing PTFE P26003 ‚Äď 11Motors
    Could they be better than bronze?

    EDIT
    Now I see that in newer posts there are different bronze guides - shorter so now there are PTFE bushing + shorter bronze one. I'm curious is there any advantages of thi solution? Could it be retrofitted to the older posts?

  37. #1037
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    My wife has a post that started out that way and ultimately failed because the plastic deformed and got jammed in there. I swapped them out with the original longer copper guide bushings and have had no issues since. IMO, the mixed bushing is really dumb.

    Chris

  38. #1038
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    Quote Originally Posted by RTM View Post
    my post's actuator rod/end cap are not extending as far as they should. when I release the lever, the rod/cap extends about 1/2 as far as it should. if I had to guess, there's something wrong with the spring in the lower right corner of this pic.



    I can't figure out how to disassmeble that piece though. are the steps outlined somewhere? any idea where I could get a replacement spring?
    Can same body tell me how I can insert the push the black jacket with the seals QR113 and QR114 back over the metal bar. In my case I could not replaced it back onto the metal bar. I pushed it so hard on it that I have destroyed the inner X-Ring QR-113. After doing that I have mounted everything together and at the moment everything feels good. I have also ordered some new seals to replace them in the next time if I get any trouble regarding the QR-113 seal.
    So the next time when I replaced the seal I must push the black jacket together with the new seal (QR-113) back nto the metal bar. Therefore it woul be nice to gets some suggestions or some tip.
    Many thanks
    Soulslide

  39. #1039
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    Quote Originally Posted by Soulslide2 View Post
    Can same body tell me how I can insert the push the black jacket with the seals QR113 and QR114 back over the metal bar. In my case I could not replaced it back onto the metal bar. I pushed it so hard on it that I have destroyed the inner X-Ring QR-113. After doing that I have mounted everything together and at the moment everything feels good. I have also ordered some new seals to replace them in the next time if I get any trouble regarding the QR-113 seal.
    So the next time when I replaced the seal I must push the black jacket together with the new seal (QR-113) back nto the metal bar. Therefore it woul be nice to gets some suggestions or some tip.
    Many thanks
    Soulslide
    a few options; push the black piece onto a socket, same diameter as the gold rod. then push the socket out using the gold rod. keep the socket and rod flush and it should be an easy transition.

    I have never used that method personally. I've done this several times and simply oil up the seal and the rod, and use a fine-point pick to 'help' the edge of the seal over the edges of the rod as I'm pushing it on. finesse is key. based on your description above you'll get a chance to try this again very soon.
    Last edited by RTM; 12-19-2018 at 12:51 PM. Reason: typo

  40. #1040
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    A craftsman 10 mm socket works very well for this and I highly recommend it. Far less of a headache that way.

    As for the spring, a 4 mm (I think) Allen key can be placed in the end of the damper to remove that but you may need to VERY CAREFULLY use soft jaws to hold the rest of the soft silver metal still while you remove that cap. It may be just gummed up rather than the spring being worn.

    Good luck

    Chris

  41. #1041
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    My lev integra was yrouble free for 2 years, up until last spring. It would extend fully but when i sit on it it would sink about half inch. I used this guide to rebuild it an all was ok for next 3 months. Than same thing happened in july so i rebuilt it again. It lasted til september. Since then, i have to rebuild it about once a month, same issue. Is this the sign of ifp seals going wrong? I just did rebuild and replaced both ifp seals but just wandering if this is the issue. Also when the post develops the issue, the actuator at the bottom is covered with small amount of oil, like if it was leaking a bit. Any idea?
    Thanks

  42. #1042
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    Been there with a couple I have rebuilt. A ways back in this thread I described my theory, in short, I believe the anodizing on the shaft is compromised by the urethane seal and the new seal will still allow oil to bypass. The OEM seal on the offending posts was a much harder composition. Not as soft and pliable as the new seals obtained from O ring store and the damage is done after a long successful life.

    Waste no more time on it and just replace the cartridge and be done with it.

  43. #1043
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    i am just going to see if the new ifp seals fix the problem. i have always done the rebuild without swapping the them.
    it just seems weird that my 7 years old dropzone never had any problem in 5 years of intense abuse and still running strong on my wife's bike. lev gave up on me in 2 years.

  44. #1044
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    Like Sack said, there are definitely some posts out there that donít ďtakeĒ well after rebuilds. Some do this after the first failure and rebuild. Others like my most recent cartridge did great for several services, then reached a point where it would fail after 3 rides. I also agree that wear and tear contributes. Iíve even seen a few posts that failed immediately after purchase and wouldnít ďtakeĒ to rebuilds. Two of these had a small pinhole in the stanchion in one of the slots where the copper guide bushing resides. Oil could be seen slowly leaking from those.

    If you have all the seals, a full seal swap may be worth a shot. If it fails quickly after that, get a new cartridge. Or if youíre just over it, go straight to the new cartridge since theyíre not too expensive if you only have to swap every 2 years. (Or just get a BikeYoke Revive and pull a little lever every time it gets spongey to reset it).

    Chris

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    Why take all the internal parts out if not replacing seals?

    Quote Originally Posted by cakelly4 View Post
    Good question regarding the seals. So far, the posts that I've fixed have done just great after this rebuild with no replacement of internal seals. Aside from mine, the other two I fixed began to have the problem shortly after purchase and so my theory is that there are some bad cartridges out there that already have a small amount of air in them. Alternatively, there could be a slow leaking seal and maybe my repaired ones will fail again sometime down the road. Another theory that I've read in some of the other threads is that by lifting your bike by the seat (with the post in the partially down position) you are potentially creating negative pressure in the system and sucking air into the oil chamber. This is also why I'm interested in receiving feedback from others who try this. Will be interesting to see if the rebuild effectively fixes the problem long-term, short-term, or not at all for some people.

    Here are the other sites that I previously mentioned:

    http://forums.mtbr.com/29er-componen...ag-873785.html

    http://forums.mtbr.com/all-mountain/...st-778632.html

    So I just decided to edit this post because I found this quote from a thread I started on a local forum:

    Mischief Bruise Quoted:
    "My LEV developed 1" of sag last year during a cold weekend where the highs reached the mid-20's during the day. I called KS and spoke to Ron Easton about it, and he said that colder temps could cause some of the seals to shrink, letting air and oil mix, which was causing that sag. At the time, he said that KS was in the process of re-sourcing those seals from a different manufacturer, so I might recommend getting a new kit from KS when doing this repair."

    That thread is located here: Repair Your KS LEV

    Hope this info helps

    -Chris
    I am getting about a year out of these KS Lev cartridges before the sag starts. The first time is was serviced and returned in about week by KS. But a year later the sag was back. At that point I found this post but decided to purchase a new one (80.00) and that has been good also for about a year and is starting to sag.

    I live in CA and rarely ride in temps below 45 degrees, there is a chance that I have lifted the bike by the seat after failing to make a section and getting back on but this case is rare.

    Anyway now I have two of these oil cartridges and decided to try this service on the one that is already disassembled. I removed cap using the spanner and sure enough a little air escaped and some of the oil seemed a little dirty.

    So it does seem a little air is causing the sag. But at this point why go through trouble of taking all seals out/off if they are difficult to put back on?

    I am going to fill it up with new oil and screw the inner rod back in and see if that fixes it, like replacing and bleeding breaks.

    I will post back with how it goes.

  46. #1046
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    You can easily get away with bleeding the post and often get many months or longer without replacing seals. Sometimes air just slips past the IFP, not because of bad seals, but because of the nature of the IFP and itís ability to tilt slightly and burp air past it.

    While you donít have to take all the parts out, you do need to be sure to reset the position of the IFP before reassembling it. If itís in the wrong position to start with, the post wonít perform well.

    The LEV is fully dismantled in my thread so that the parts can be seen. Itís also good to inspect those parts occasionally.

    Chris

  47. #1047
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    Thanks for this. I was able to rebuild my gold cartridge and the thing is likely better than new now.

    A few tips / noticings I had.

    Whoever came up with using a aa battery to fit the oring in the black delrin spacer - this worked like a charm! I had to remove the label but it was perfect.

    Any metal to oring surface and threads, I coated in slick honey, made everything go together really smooth.

    I destroyed the 113 x-ring in the black delrin spacer trying to re-use it. It was petrified, not pliable at all. Purchased some new and they went in really easy, with some slick honey, it slipped right over the battery and internal shaft. I would say, save yourself the trouble of re-using the 113 and 114 on the delrin spacer, just spend the $9 on some new ones.

    This post is also very helpful.

    KS LEV rebuild and travel adjustment | Peter Verdone Designs

    I used the redline 2.5 weight shock fluid, gives this post some good speed, well worth the $15

  48. #1048
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    Iím glad it helped you. Iíve been using a 10 mm Craftsman socket as a bullet tool which also works great. I also place a small amount of Slick Honey on every seal when I replace them. All good tips.

    Thanks,
    Chris

  49. #1049
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    I've got a KS Lev ti that I am rebuilding for a friend. It was in a hot car and popped up then wouldn't stay up. So I have pulled the cartridge apart and put in new quad seals in the IFP and tried to bleed the cartridge twice and both times I can hold the cartridge on the bench and push it down with my body weight 2-3" if I push slow. If I try to push it down quickly the cartridge feels very firm.

    Should there be another seal I should be looking at replacing? I can not hear any air leaking out of the system.

  50. #1050
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    Not sure whatís going on there but I would start over. Make sure the IFP is positioned in the proper spot before adding the oil. That step is very important.

    Chris

  51. #1051
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    Try replacing all seals in the post, including really small ones in actuator valve.
    I don't think this relates to IFP placement, and it's not so important, as I can say after rebuilding Integras ~10 times.

  52. #1052
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    It was the valve oring B90007. I replaced that and now everything works fine.

    Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

  53. #1053
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    Another tip:

    I spent forever trying to get the internal floating piston ( IFP ) on.
    I used the 10mm socket trick, again, no success
    My 10mm was every so slightly smaller than the rod
    If you wrap a few layers of Teflon Tape / Plumbers tape around the socket it works a treat.
    You could use teflon around anything of similar diameter.

    Thanks again for this thread

    KS LEV - DIY Cartridge Rebuild-mtb.jpg

  54. #1054
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    I did my KS Lev today and used a Duracell AA battery. Worked like a charm. I started with the sockets too but none of them were exactly 14mm like the IPF tube. The ones I had ranged from 14.2mm to 14.4 and would barely fit into the plastic part of the IFP, or not at all. The AA battery was spot on 13.99mm in diameter.

    I was lurking around here when Chris started this thread, but had to wait for 4 years for my Lev to finally give in so I could try this procedure. So glad this thread is still here. However, Chris, if you are reading this I have 1 question/suggestion:

    When reassembling the post you recommend to position the IFP 3mm from the end of the IFP tube, before filling the cartridge with oil. But after taking some measurements I established that when the cartridge is fully assembled the IFP tube sits exactly 3mm inside the bottom cartridge cap. So in your procedure you are essentially placing the IFP in the "bottomed out" position. I think it would be safer to push the IFP further along the tube for assembly. Otherwise, unless the inner push rod is positioned perfectly when screwing the cap in you may not get full seat post travel. Or if later during use a small amount of oil migrates into the air chamber, again it will immediately result in reduced post travel. So I sacrificed a fraction of the air chamber volume and increased the oil chamber volume by pushing the IFP another 10mm along the tube. This creates a buffer that will ensure the IFP never bottoms out when the post is fully extended. It's safe to reduce the air chamber volume slightly like this because when the post is fully compressed the IFP is only half way up the tube anyway. After measuring the dimensions of all the parts and calculating the oil and air chamber volumes I determined that the IFP is displaced 0.43mm for every 1mm the inner rod/piston moves up the tube.

  55. #1055
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    Haha. Wow. Thatís a lot of detail there. Iíll try that the next time I work on one and see how it does. That makes total sense.

    Thanks for the tip.

    Chris

  56. #1056
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    Chris

    Are you aware of anyone in BC or Alberta that is servicing LEV's? I'd like to send this off to someone other than LEV (as they apparently don't service the old models any longer)... and pay someone to do the rebuild for me.

    Appreciate your input.

    Andrew Drouin
    andrewdrouin@gmail.com

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