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    BikeYoke REVIVE - Info, Tipps, Tricks, Troubleshooting

    This thread is to be all about the BikeYoke REVIVE, and I´ll try to collect all relevant information and findings in this initial post. So it´s worth stopping by here once in a while, as I´ll try to keep the information in this post up to date constantly.
    Before asking question, please check, if you you can find the answer in the first post.

    Please note, that you should only work on your post, if you know what you are doing, and if you are an experienced mechanic. Those information may not be exhaustive.
    Any work performed by the customer is performed at its own risk.

    Alright, here we go.
    Let me know, if you want me to add, or if I missed something.


    GENERAL MAINTENANCE

    Checking air pressure:

    1. Place the post right side up and perform a proper reset. The post can remain in the frame.
    2. Fully extend the post.
    3. After the reset and extension, give it at least one minute of rest to let the oil drain off the reset valve area. Oil can then run down on the ID of the stanchion, away from the air valve and reset valve.
    4. Remove saddle clamps and air valve cap
    5. Attach air pump and air adapter.

    NOTE: Never release air without a pump attached, as releasing too quickly can cause oil to exit the post, which then has to be refilled. Always use the pump´s release mechanism and release slowly !

    6. Fill up the post to desired pressure.
    Factory setting is 250psi. Less pressure will make the post slower, more pressure will make the post quicker. Don´t got below 200psi or higher than 300psi!
    7. Remove the pump and adapter and make sure, not to cause pressure loss from inside the post when doing so. Even a little air loss could mean significant pressure loss, as the air volume inside the post is very small.
    8. Reinstall air valve cap and saddle clamps.

    NOTE: Only lightly attach pump and/or air adapter. If you tighten the adapter too firmly, the o-rings inside adapter and pump might get squeezed and cause the valve core to stay open for a split second too long. This can result in oil loss and will lead to malfunction. Be very careful when attaching the pump and adapter. Don´t tighten them too much!


    Lower tube service


    If your lower tube is dirty on the inside, or if the guiding pins and/or bushings are worn, your post should receive a lower tube service, our so called “100hr”, service“.

    Here you can find a video for the lower service:

    Read the description!

    NOTE:
    Do not release the air just for the lower tube service. This is not neccessary and you only risk losing oil. If you anyway want to release air, then please follow the guide above.
    Upper bushing usually does not need to be replaced during the first couple lower tube services. It ist much more important to properly clean and re-grease the tubes, and replacing the pins and the small foam ring, if worn.


    Recommended greases:
    R.S.P. Soft Grease
    R.S.P. Slick Kick
    Buzzy's Slick Honey
    SRAM Butter
    KS Post Paste


    NOTE:
    Do not use WD40, Brunox, Fork Juice or similar (penetrating) oils on your REVIVE or on any other your suspension parts in general. Those products will just wash out your grease over time!
    Also do not use any other oil inside your lower tube. Proper grease is the way to go.

    It is recommended to externally grease your stanchion wiper once in a while. Just apply some grease after wiping it clean and dry. Remove eccessive grease. This will help repell water and keep your rubber soft.

    There are not a lot of special tools that you need for taking your post apart, and the most “exotic” ones might be circlip pliers. Those are the ones we use:

    for big circlip for lower tube
    Knipex 48 41 J21
    https://www.knipex.de/index.php?id=1...57&artID=34787

    for small circlip for the cartridge/lower bushing
    Knipex 49 41 A11
    https://www.knipex.de/index.php?id=1...58&artID=34789


    TROUBLESHOOTING REVIVE

    I had reset my REVIVE, but it still sags play
    In rare cases, a lot of air could have gotten inside the hydraulic lockout tube, or the oil started foaming for some reason. In this case, it can require multiple resets to remove all air. Give your post a few seconds between every rest procedure and perform them not too quickly.


    My REVIVE sags a bit under heavy load
    Every hydraulically locked seatpost – no matter the brand – can be compressed slightly. This is normal. Just a few of the reasons for this behavior can be found below:


    1. Unlike one may think, oil is not completely incompressible. Oil can be slightly compressed.
    2. O-rings need space for proper installation and function inside their grooves. This means, o.rings allow minimal movement and this can add up over several o-rings.
    3. Tubes can change shape under pressure, especially, if thin-walled and under inner pressure. Bloading tubes can have more volume and allow the post to move.

    All those and more contribute to the pehomenon, that you may be able to slightly compress the post under high load. However, this movement does not feel springy, as if the post had air inside. It feels very hard and you can only notice the compression for example, if you look at the wiper and the stanchion moving in by 1-2mm.


    My remote lever does not return properly
    This may come from one of the two reasons:


    1. The bottom actuation assembly ist dirty or not greased.
      Your frame inside can collect water or mud over time from washing or riding in muddy conditions. Water can cause corrosion and/or wash away the grease from the bottom actuation unit and/or dirt. Mud can stick to the actuator and cause it to go get stuck.
      Cleaning yor post and re-greasing the actuator should help in this case.
      You should be advised to remove your post after washing the bike and let the frame dry from the inside, too. You´ll be suprised, how easily sometimes water can accumulate inside a frame
      Keeping your frame dry on the inside is not only good for the post, it´ll also prolong the life of your frame bearings and BB.
    2. Pressure is not high enough.
      Normal pressure inside the REVIVE is usually between 210-250psi (factory setting = 250 psi) Less pressure means not only, that the post returns slower, but it also, that remote is easier to push. If the pressure is too low, the resulting force on the actuator may not be high enough to push the actuator back to full extension.
      Set the pressure back to the factory setting following the air-setup instructions above.
      Using a valve key, please also check proper torque for the valve core. After installation, valve cores and seats can settle and require re-tightening.Correct torque for valve cores is 0.3-0.5 Nm.



    My post is moving very stickily and/or slowly

    Find a few possible reasons below:


    1. Pressure too low
      Set the post bakc to 250psi
    2. Seat clamp/collar is too tight
      Check your seat clamp / seat collar for proper torque. If clamps are not tightended properly, or if seattubes are not reamed properly, a seat clamp can squeeze the lower tube and cause binding of the tubes to each other. Check your seattube for proper inner diameter and your collar for proper torque. Torque only enough to allow no movement while riding normally. It is OK for the post to move, when you fall, or if it gets an impact from the side. You may know this advice from your brake levers. In case of crash, it is OK, if parts can move.
    3. Foam ring is clogged
      At the bottom of your post, you can spot several small holes. Those holes are important, as the post lower tube needs to „breathe“ during extending and lowering. On the inner side those holes are covered by a small foam ring, which allowe air flow, but keeps most dirt and contamination out of the post. If this foam ring is clogged, the air can not enter/exit the lower tube during movement and will slow down the action and might even stop it in the middle of moving. You can easily clean this foam ring, by removing the lower circlip. Siding up the lower tube will giv you acces to the foam ring and you can use a clean tissue to clean it. If it needs to be replaced, you need a REVIVE service kit and perform a “100hr service”.
    4. Contaminated lower tube
      Dirt inside the lower tube increases friction. Perform a 100hr lower tube service.
    5. Low temperatures
      REVIVE is designed to work in low temperatures, even below 0°C. However, please note, that you may need to re-adjust the pressure when riding in the cold. Your post will not have the same pressure, when going from cozy the house onto the cold winter trail. Colder tempertures will slow the post down, as pressure decreases. Set the pressure for the tempereratur you are goinf to use the post in.
      NOTE: Don´t forget to re-set the pressure for warmer temperatures!



    My remote is extremely hard to push
    This is very likely due to a big temperature difference between using the post and storing the post.
    If the post has time to heat up, while it is not being used, the temperature increase will make the oil want to expand. Since the oil is housed in a closed space, the oil can not expand, instead the pressure increases.
    Examples:
    You ride in sub-zero temps, and store the bike at +20°C in the house.
    You ride the bike in summer, then put the bike in your car, where it heats up.
    This extra pressure needs to be overcome through either the reset valve or the main valve via the remote. Once you enganged either the reset function or the remote, the pressure will equalize and post will work normally.

    The easiest was to release the extra pressure form the inner chamber is by using a 4mm hex key and engage the reset function. Never use the small REVIVE Quick-Reset-Lever to openend the stiffened-up post, as you may break the lever.

    NOTE: It can help to store the bike with not fully extended, but a half-way dropped post.


    My REVIVE or my saddle are creaking

    First make sure, that it is really the post and not the saddle, that is creaking. Make sure your upper saddle clamp is aligned properly and that your bolts are tightenend evenly with 7Nm. The bolt shafts and threads need to be clear an not touch the saddle clamp and or the post head.

    NOTE: The upper clamp can be slightly repositioned during fastening the bolts. You can slide the upper clamp back and forth slightly while tightening. If the upper clamp is positioned too much forward, the bolts can touch the upper clamp or the post head and cause creaking. Hold the upper clamp back with your fingers, while you tighten the bolts evenly.
    Especially on frames with slack seattube angles and/or saddles that are pointing nose-downward need can cause contact between bolt and post head/clamp. Proper alignment of the upper clamp can help
    .


    REVIVE, WEIGHTS
    125/30.9: 465g
    125/31.6: 486g
    125/34.9: 530g

    160/30.9: 525g
    160/31.6: 545g
    160/34.9: 590g

    185/30.9: 560g
    185/31.6: 580g
    185/34.9: 630g

    Triggy without clamp: 23g
    Splits Clamp: 13g

    Ti-saddle-clamp-bolts save about 10g compared to regular bolts.


    Links to interesting media content about droppers in general: https://www.bikerumor.com/2018/01/24...l-do-you-need/
    https://www.bikerumor.com/2018/02/0...termine-what-dropper-post-will-fit-your-bike/
    https://www.bikerumor.com/2018/02/0...ntain-your-dropper-seatpost/#comment-32220407 https://www.bikerumor.com/2018/02/14...atpost-remote/


    Dropper length comparison (market overview):
    Dropper Seatposts


    REVIVE test reviews:
    Pinkbike review
    Vital MTB shootout
    NSMB review
    Spoke Magazine review
    Velomotion shootout
    Sicklines long term review - part one
    Sicklines long term review - part two
    NSMB review
    MBR shootout
    MTBR review
    Singletracks review
    OutdoorGearLab - Dropper Shootout
    OutDoorGearLab - single review
    Vojomag – NL
    Vojomag – FR
    AMBMAG - AUS
    Rotorburn

    Additonal helpful information:


    • We are currently not planning on dropper posts with more than 185mm drop.
    • No, we are currently not planning on droppers posts for 27.2mm seat tube diameter.




    • How do I know, if my REVIVE has Microvalve or not?

      1. All REVIVE MAX have Microvalve
      2. All REVIVE 185 have Microvalve
      3. Following serial numbers have Microvalve feature:

      1705xxx, 1706xxx, 1707xxx......... and higher
      1801xxx, 1802xxx, 1803xxx......... and higher
      2705xxx, 2706xxx, 2707xxx......... and higher
      2801xxx, 2802xxx, 2803xxx......... and higher



    REVIVE explosion drawing:

    BikeYoke REVIVE - Info, Tipps, Tricks, Troubleshooting-revive_exploded_view.jpg
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails BikeYoke REVIVE - Info, Tipps, Tricks, Troubleshooting-revive-troubleshooting-end-consumer-en-.jpg  

    BikeYoke REVIVE - Info, Tipps, Tricks, Troubleshooting-revive-service-schedule-en-.jpg  

    BikeYoke REVIVE - Info, Tipps, Tricks, Troubleshooting-revive-oil-grease-specs-en-.jpg  

    BikeYoke REVIVE - Info, Tipps, Tricks, Troubleshooting-mobil-dte-10-excel-15-specification-sheet-.jpg  

    BikeYoke REVIVE - Info, Tipps, Tricks, Troubleshooting-revive-125.jpg  

    BikeYoke REVIVE - Info, Tipps, Tricks, Troubleshooting-revive-160.jpg  

    BikeYoke REVIVE - Info, Tipps, Tricks, Troubleshooting-revive-185.jpg  

    BikeYoke REVIVE - Info, Tipps, Tricks, Troubleshooting-revive-max-125.jpg  

    BikeYoke REVIVE - Info, Tipps, Tricks, Troubleshooting-revive-max-160.jpg  

    BikeYoke REVIVE - Info, Tipps, Tricks, Troubleshooting-revive-max-185.jpg  

    Last edited by sacki; 1 Week Ago at 01:13 AM.
    BikeYoke staff member - www.bikeyoke.com

  2. #2
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    Good info. Thanks for posting


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    Many thanks for compiling all of this information!

  4. #4
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    Great customer service here for real riders

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  5. #5
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    Agree thanks for starting this thread!

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    The first time I tried fitting the reset lever to my new post I split the retaining o-ring. What are the specs on the o ring so I can swing by the hardware store and grab a new one?

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    It is a 2.5x1.0 O-ring. Size is not very important, all it does is generating friction to keep the lever inside. As long as there is enough sqeeze, you can use any o-ring. You may as well use a cut rubber band or a thread and wrap it around the groove. As long as it makes the lever stay inside by squeeze, anything should be fine.
    BikeYoke staff member - www.bikeyoke.com

  8. #8
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    I used some BS607 o-rings. 2.54x1.02mm primarily as they're pretty easy to get hold of in the UK. If I'd struggled, I would have tried ptfe plumbing tape next.

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    Currently doing a lower service and my v2 service kit has an IGUS bushing that is not present in my post. Do I replace what is currently in my post with the IGUS? if so, what needs swapped? thanks.

    The video here is what my post looks like:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J_2kQv7fJbc

    The video here has the IGUS bushing:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=62Qiil7IL08

    Thanks for the help...

  10. #10
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    is it ok to clamp the post in a work stand to hold up the bike?


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    Better not
    OK

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    Quote Originally Posted by pryde1 View Post
    Currently doing a lower service and my v2 service kit has an IGUS bushing that is not present in my post. Do I replace what is currently in my post with the IGUS? if so, what needs swapped? thanks.

    The video here is what my post looks like:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J_2kQv7fJbc

    The video here has the IGUS bushing:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=62Qiil7IL08

    Thanks for the help...

    Replying to my own post as I just seen there is running change to replace the old lower bushing and metal washer with just the new gray IGUS bushing.

    Already put in back together with the old bushing/metal washer so guess I missed that one. Oh well, everything actually looked pretty good but I went ahead a replaced the 6 pins and wiper seal.

    If someone says it is crucial to put in the new IGUS bushing then I will pull it back apart but otherwise I will leave it be.

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    @ Pryde1: As long as you don´t have any noticeable play, it is fine to not replace the lower bushing or the pins and just clean and re-grease the post.

    @cjsb: Well, I always clamp my posts in my bike-stand, and never had any issues. However, I have rubber/plastic clamping jaws, which are clean and I do not use too much force to clamp.
    Also: Never use the bike-stand to forcingly keep the bike in a certain postion. Allow the bike-stand/bike to even out.
    That being said, yes you can clamp your post in a proper bike stand with proper jaws (or wrapped in old tire tubes).
    BUT you can also damage your post, if you are really not using your brain.
    BikeYoke staff member - www.bikeyoke.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by sacki View Post
    @ Pryde1: As long as you don´t have any noticeable play, it is fine to not replace the lower bushing or the pins and just clean and re-grease the post.

    @cjsb: Well, I always clamp my posts in my bike-stand, and never had any issues. However, I have rubber/plastic clamping jaws, which are clean and I do not use too much force to clamp.
    Also: Never use the bike-stand to forcingly keep the bike in a certain postion. Allow the bike-stand/bike to even out.
    That being said, yes you can clamp your post in a proper bike stand with proper jaws (or wrapped in old tire tubes).
    BUT you can also damage your post, if you are really not using your brain.
    Thanks Sacki.

    There was a few millimeters of play but swapping the pins seamed to help. It now feels like my wife's brand new revive (slight play for/aft) so I guess the pins were likely wore. Also noticed there was only 150 lbs of air in it so I went up to 250. Seams to be working like new again. I will replace the bushing next time in there.

    I have put many hard miles on this post the past 1.5 years in wet, gritty terrain and so far no real problems. the insides looked much nicer/cleaner than I expected.

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    ^^^That right there is why I really appreciate Sacki and BikeYoke. You don't automatically assume the customer is of the lowest common denominator and default to the solution that exposes you to the least amount of liability. You give real answers for the real world. Thank You.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by cjsb View Post
    is it ok to clamp the post in a work stand to hold up the bike?
    Yes in case, you meet the conditions:
    1/ Clamping jaws are soft and clean.
    2/ Both bike wheels stay on the ground.

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    WOW - JUST WOW!

    We´re nominated "Best Hardware" from Singletrack Magazine´s readers:
    https://singletrackworld.com/2018/09...018-finalists/
    Only accompanied by Rock Shox Lyrik and Shimano´s new, yet not available, XTR group.
    I can´t even express, how proud that makes us!

    It´d be very cool, of you could support us with your vote here:
    https://singletrackworld.com/reader-awards-2018-voting/
    BikeYoke staff member - www.bikeyoke.com

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    Awesome!! You deserve it!

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    Congrats! I do love mine a looot!
    Make a little nicer remote for it, something like the wolf tooth makes and it will be perfect.

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    I created a login on Singletrack world just to vote for you. I was glad the vote form allowed me to skip entries - like many on MTBR, I'm American and some of that makes no sense at all if you're not in the UK. BikeYoke Revive was an easy pick.

  21. #21
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    Thanks a lot to all that support us! It means a lot to us!
    BikeYoke staff member - www.bikeyoke.com

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    The Revive got my vote on Singletrack (along with keeper of the peak for online service).

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    I voted too.

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    Hi, I have two Revives and absolutely love them. But even the best products can't compensate for idiots.... The seat post did not extend the last 3 cm so i checked the pressure. I had just done a lower service so i knew it wasn't that. It was only 150 psi and i gave it 250. So fare so good. But then i forgot to put on that little cap on the valve. Then when i used the reset function oil was spilling out. A lot of oil. Now it does not work. So how do i refill oil? And what oil?

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    1. All relevant oil specs /type and volume) can be found in the documents above. The post will also work with other oild of similar viscosity. I am talking about actual viscosity, not WT numbers. This here is worth reading:
    Suspension fluids | Peter Verdone Designs
    https://www.peterverdone.com/wiki/in...spension_Fluid
    2. All relevant specs can also be found on our website. Just go to the arctile description of any REVIVE dropper post, then to "Maintenance" and/or "Documents".
    There are also links to videos of lower tube service and full rebuild

    However,
    You can refill the oil through the valve stem after removing the valve core.
    A small syringe will do the job to push the oil back in.
    The problem is, that you don´t know, how much oil you´ve lost, or how much oil is still inside. Now the REVIVE is not very sensitive about absolutely correct oil volume. +/- 2cc are OK. Little too much oil make the post very firm toward full drop. Little too few oil can make the post not lock out properly or cause the post to need more frequent resets.

    The other option is sending it back to our service center for a full service/rebuild
    BikeYoke staff member - www.bikeyoke.com

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    Hi, thank you for the information. After leaving the seat post for a while it seems to work ok, even though it list som oil. I will refill it anyway. From the spec i understand that i need a oil with ISO Viscosity Grade of 15 mm2/s. I will look for the exact Mobil oil that you use, but I'm afraid it is difficult to find in my town. But from reading it seems like Motorex 2,5W has the correct ISO Viscosity Grade, 15 mm2/s. I can buy that here.
    In the spec it also says 5% with something "non stick.....". I have slickoleum/slick honey. Does that mean that i should mix inn Slick Honey with a mass that is 5% of the oil i will add? Or is it 5% of the volume? I don't quite understand what this grease does that the oil doesn't do...

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    Our REVIVE will basically work with (m)any suspension oil(s). Please on´t nail me down on that, if you find an oil, that won´t do the job properly! We´ve tested dozens of them, and all worked, but in the end decided to go for the Mobil, because it simply performed best.
    The R.S.P. No Stick Slip is NOT Slick Honey. Slick Honey is a grease. R.S.P. No stick Slip is an additive, that reduces stiction. Don´t ask me, what it is and how it works. I have never really been a fan of "fancy" additives, but R.S.P. No Stick Slip actually reduces stiction in a fork and shock and also our post. You don´t need to use it. However, we´ve found out, that, especially in cold temperatures, it helps the post function on the level that it does.
    It would be 5% of the volume,but that wouldn´t even really matter, since densities are very close to each other.
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    I had an issue with mine today on the trail. I dropped it through a rocky section and the Lever felt loose then tight and the post kept dropping under weight and then popping back up when unseated and wouldn’t lock in anywhere.

    Turns out the cable ferrule cover on the post end had slowly become fouled up and crept its way up and out of the recess it slips into.

    Went back to the car and had to take off the triggy so I could slide the cable back into the frame. Then removed the post from the frame and used a knife to slice off the dags and slide it back in. There’s no way I could have fixed it trail side.

    I should have taken pics while I had it out.
    Looks like I’ll have to replace the housing at some stage as my fiddling with it seems to have put a heavy curve in it near the BB, however the actuation still seems as smooth as before.

    This was on a Santa Cruz Hightower LT

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    Anyone checked if you can lighten it up with carbon cradle and POP yokes?

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    New review published on Sicklines:

    Sicklines long term review - part two
    BikeYoke staff member - www.bikeyoke.com

  31. #31
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    One year old this month. Works perfectly. Zero issues in 175(ish) rides. Some of these were Tahoe or Downieville, hardcore 3-5 hr Expert level rides into the abyss. Congratulations Sacki. I am still wondering if there is a way to use any kind of spacer to change my 160mm to 150. I am shorter rider on a medium Canfield Brothers Riot, and the rear tire will buzz my saddle on big hits or G-outs. But its fine if I need to keep living with it. New saddle $60. Indesctructible Dropper Post, Priceless!

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    Unfortunately, we do not have spacers to limit the travel. We´d love to do so, but we haven´t found a reliable, customer DIY solution.
    BikeYoke staff member - www.bikeyoke.com

  33. #33
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    Just stumbled over this on facebook and I was super excited and pleasently surprised, because I must admit, that I haven´t heard of OutdoorGearLab before:

    OutdoorGearLab - Dropper Shootout
    OutDoorGearLab - single review

    It is even more interesting and exciting, because I believe, that is is the most independent and at the same most elaborate review of our REVIVE, that I have seen so far.
    Also, apparently they buy all their reviewed products incognito for regular retail prices, as they explain here:
    https://www.outdoorgearlab.com/about
    https://www.outdoorgearlab.com/faq

    Super stoked to see this outstanding outcome of this test!
    Even if, I am a little bit confused by the weight score, as other, shorter, but at the same time heavier posts (e.g. e13), score higher than the REVIVE.
    BikeYoke staff member - www.bikeyoke.com

  34. #34
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    My Revive failed for the first time on my ride yesterday after 1 year and 3 months of use. For the last few weeks I've been suspecting that there wasn't enough air pressure in my post anymore, as the return speed seemed lazy. In the middle of my ride, I raised my post then sat down, and the saddle dropped all the way down. I tried again, and the same thing happened. Wtf?!! My Revive didn't feel "springy" when I sat on my saddle, rather it felt like I was pushing the trigger and dropping the saddle.

    I glanced down at my 2-by trigger as I raised the saddle a couple more times, then released the trigger, and I could see that the nub on the end of the cable was not snapping down against the stop in the trigger. I thought my cable housing must be contaminated. I decided to stop and see if everything was okay with the connection on the bottom of the post. I pulled my Revive out of my seat tube, and I pulled on the housing so that the the black plastic ferrule came out of the stop, then I re-inserted the ferrule back into the stop. That solved the issue for the rest of my ride.

    According to sacki's troubleshooting section:

    My remote lever does not return properly
    This may come from one of the two reasons:

    1....
    2. Pressure is not high enough.
    Today, I decided to add some air to my Revive, but the instructions in the manual aren't very clear. According to the manual, it looks like you have to disassemble every piece in the head of the post to add air. That isn't the case. The following is what I did.

    ADDING AIR TO YOUR POST:

    1) According to sacki, before adding any air you should do a revive, then wait a couple of minutes. Taking the saddle off and cleaning the parts takes a few minutes, so do the revive before taking your saddle off. Today was the first time I've ever used the revive feature. When removing the saddle clamps, note the orientation of each half of the saddle clamp. One piece has longer rails on one end than the other, and the end with the longer rails points to the rear; and if I remember correctly, the other half has a casting between the rails that looks a bit like an arrow, which points to the rear.

    2) With the saddle clamps off, you can see the revive mechanism. If you turn the 4mm bolt clockwise, i.e. when you revive your post, it levers a thick bar against the cap on top of the air valve. And, if you turn the 4mm bolt counter clockwise, the thick bar will point straight up, giving you access to the air valve.

    3) I used a q-tip to pry the cap off the air valve, which came off easily.

    4) *Lightly* screw the air valve adapter (that came in the packaging with your trigger) onto the air valve. Then *lightly* screw your shock pump onto the air valve adapter.

    5) Inflate to desired pressure. sacki says you need a high quality two step shock pump, but I read a review of shock pumps that says all shock pumps are nearly identical, and they are designed not to release air from whatever you are pumping up when you unscrew the pump.

    6) I have a 7 year old shock pump that came with a Santa Cruz Blur LT2, and I pumped up my Revive to 210 psi.

    7) Renistall air valve cap.

    8) Turn the 4mm bolt clockwise so that the thick bar is touching the air valve cap.

    9) Reinstall the seat.

    I don't know if my post has 210 psi in it or not, but now my post is snapping back up with a sharp !bang! I had no issues with my Revive on my ride today.

    I also used grease instead of friction compound on my post, and I went "dry" everywhere else. We'll see how that goes.
    Last edited by happyriding; 11-10-2018 at 04:31 PM.

  35. #35
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    Just a quick not on the comment above.
    You don´t have to take the reset lever apart to access the valve.
    Only if you´ve lost your air adapter, you CAN disassemble the reset axle to access the valve without the air adapter and the shock pump directly.
    I tried to make it as clear as possible in the manual, and I am sorry, if it is confusing. Here is a copy of the mentioned manual page, where I highlighted the bold "OR" with yellow marker:
    BikeYoke REVIVE - Info, Tipps, Tricks, Troubleshooting-pump.png

    Glad to hear, the post works fine, again.
    BikeYoke staff member - www.bikeyoke.com

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by sacki View Post
    1. All relevant oil specs /type and volume) can be found in the documents above. The post will also work with other oild of similar viscosity. I am talking about actual viscosity, not WT numbers. This here is worth reading:
    Suspension fluids | Peter Verdone Designs
    https://www.peterverdone.com/wiki/in...spension_Fluid
    2. All relevant specs can also be found on our website. Just go to the arctile description of any REVIVE dropper post, then to "Maintenance" and/or "Documents".
    There are also links to videos of lower tube service and full rebuild

    However,
    You can refill the oil through the valve stem after removing the valve core.
    A small syringe will do the job to push the oil back in.
    The problem is, that you don´t know, how much oil you´ve lost, or how much oil is still inside. Now the REVIVE is not very sensitive about absolutely correct oil volume. +/- 2cc are OK. Little too much oil make the post very firm toward full drop. Little too few oil can make the post not lock out properly or cause the post to need more frequent resets.

    The other option is sending it back to our service center for a full service/rebuild
    ok so i had the same problem, i released the air with a shock pump with the post extended and i still lost a bunch of oil. i removed the valve core out so i could replace the oil with some RockOil SVI 10 i have kicking around. i drained out the rest of the oil so i could get an accurate 41.5 ml back in there but going thru the valve is just not practical, it's just not wide enough even with a small 10ml syrnge. where is the video you are talking about for a full service?

    thanks

  37. #37
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    The link to the video can be found here on our website in the article description of any REVIVE dropper post:
    BikeYoke REVIVE - Info, Tipps, Tricks, Troubleshooting-cartridge-rebuild.jpg
    Here is the direct link:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YP3o...ature=youtu.be
    BikeYoke staff member - www.bikeyoke.com

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by sacki View Post
    The link to the video can be found here on our website in the article description of any REVIVE dropper post:
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	cartridge rebuild.jpg 
Views:	74 
Size:	109.3 KB 
ID:	1224093
    Here is the direct link:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YP3o...ature=youtu.be
    ok great, thanks

  39. #39
    Oaktown Honkey on Strava
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    SACKI, I tried to order rebuild kit, but website is sold out (version w/ metal spring around wiper). I need to replace wiper/brass keys. Any timeframe?

  40. #40
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    Hey, Hoolie!
    I am not sure what you mean, but both spare parts kits (lower tube service kit and o-ring kits for cartridge rebuils) are available in every size/type.
    Does it really show out of stock wheny ou go to website?
    BikeYoke staff member - www.bikeyoke.com

  41. #41
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    Winter time is service time!

    GREAT NEWS FOR ALL OUR AMERICAN REVIVE OWNERS

    Our US service partner, the guys from Dirtlabs, are offering a funky special deal on two different REVIVE service packages during the cold time of the year.

    • Lower tube service, $35* - includes lower tube clean and regrease + lower bushing + pin + foam ring + wiper replacement (save $15)


    • Full service, $60* - includes Lower tube service + hydraulic cartridge rebuild with complete seal replacement (save $30)
      Add $5 on the full service and you get a Microvalve upgrade for your 1st gen REVIVE



    *offer is valid until 2019/01/31, shipping cost and taxes are not included, offer can not be combined with any other deals/offers

    If you are interested, get in touch with the guys from Dirtlabs directly via e-mail service@dirtlabs.com or by visiting their website to have your REVIVE prepared and ready for combat in the spring time.

    Here is a direct link to their service form:
    https://www.dirtlabs.com/get-service-individuals-form/

    We wish you a great weekend!
    Your BikeYoke and Dirtlabs team
    Last edited by sacki; 12-01-2018 at 01:57 PM.
    BikeYoke staff member - www.bikeyoke.com

  42. #42
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    Yes its, web order is working. Damn, I just ordered. Trying to cancel my new order, since I saw new offer on last entry of $60 service at dirtlab.

  43. #43
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    Where can one find the serial number on the post? I want to check to be sure it's the 2.0.

    This is the number on the box:

    BikeYoke REVIVE - Info, Tipps, Tricks, Troubleshooting-20181217_163922_hdr.jpg
    Last edited by CS645; 12-17-2018 at 08:41 AM.

  44. #44
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    I did two lower-leg services today. Here are my notes:

    Seatpost 1:

    This is a 160, it was about time for service, although our conditions are extremely harsh in the summer often, lots of mud and muck in the early and late season, so that might account for any accelerated wear. It got a little junky right towards the end of the season.

    There was some external corrosion on the external tube. This wasn't completely unexpected, the bike it's on doesn't have a seal at the internal routing hole, which is on the lower seat-tube. I'd imagine some moisture gets in here through the BB and this hole, although I usually try to keep a bead of silicone on it to minimize what can get in. This also goes back to the "fiber grip" carbon grease, but as I stated earlier, I haven't had good luck with trying to tighten dropper posts, they either slip or bind in the action, it's an imperfect system until the post is integrated into the frame (yuck) or incorporates some kind of collar with plastic spacers that we could stack to prevent slippage.

    Anyway, this proceeded well, everything pretty much like clockwork according to the video. Only issue I noticed internally was the long skinny rod that is pushed by the external lever had some corrosion on it.

    Seatpost 2:

    This one was admittedly overdue for service. It's a 125mm. It has "felt" smooth the entire time and possibly lulled me into a false sense of security. This is a "generation one", it has directional pins. I did not notice directional pins on the one above. This one is significantly older than the 160. I don't ride this bike "as much" as the one up top, but this one I XC race, including several 100 mile races.

    Externally though, this looked great. No corrosion issues on the outside.

    Right off the batt, I ran into problems, after removing the first C-clip, the external tube would not budge. I had to use a piece of PVC pipe with a diameter bigger than the inner tube to pound it back. Once I did manage to break it free, I liberally applied grease on both sides, it wouldn't slide off right away and I had to work it a bit. Once I did, I also noticed that the foam ring was warped, about half was on one side of the o-ring and half on the other side, rather than below it. Getting the tube off and the pins out, I noticed some corrosion on the silver metal piece that is left of the black tube and where the brass pins reside:

    BikeYoke REVIVE - Info, Tipps, Tricks, Troubleshooting-img_6001.jpg

    2nd pic is poor, sorry, but you can see the white a little better:

    BikeYoke REVIVE - Info, Tipps, Tricks, Troubleshooting-img_6002.jpg

    Interestingly, that same silver rod that is pushed by the external lever was completely perfect on this dropper, so that part was strange.

    Obviously, I should not let the post go so far and not service it, I take full responsibility for that. The other thing to think of is that just because it seems smooth does not mean everything is ok. This post appears to use some dissimilar metals that have galvanic potential. It appears the slots where the pins rest are not annodized, so that may be contributing to the corrosion issue. Rebuilt these both feel very nice. The lower service is pretty straightforward though and easy to do as far as steps. I guess I was expecting to find a lot of gummed up grease residue, which I did find some, but I wasn't expecting the internal corrosion.
    Last edited by Jayem; 12-15-2018 at 11:54 PM.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

    You're turning black metallic.

  45. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by sacki View Post
    Unfortunately, we do not have spacers to limit the travel. We´d love to do so, but we haven´t found a reliable, customer DIY solution.
    I did find this awhile back: Revive! | Peter Verdone Designs

  46. #46
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    BikeYoke staff member - www.bikeyoke.com

  47. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by sacki View Post
    My bike needs a Willy. I just noticed a layer of dried mud in the seatpost clamp that it would've stopped.

  48. #48
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    Got to look at my post in the morning. Its very slow/sticky returning. Checked the pressure today and it was down to 160psi so i pumped it back up to 250 but its still slow/sticky.
    Hopefully its just the foam ring that needs cleaning, it was warranty returned to my UK disti in August as the bushing had started to breakdown - they asked if I’d been using Muc-off (which I was) as they’d seen that happen before. Since then I haven’t used it, but am slightly apprehensive as its exactly the same symptoms as before.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    #bleedblackdieevil

  49. #49
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    Did you already try to do a lower tube service and check how the post looks inside?
    BikeYoke staff member - www.bikeyoke.com

  50. #50
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    Sorry yep - it was fine. Lower clean and degrease and it’s good as new again! Not as scary a process as I thought.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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  51. #51
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    Great to hear!
    Yeah, it is super simple and literally a 10-minute-job.

    Also interesting, as the guys from Bikerumor are the first to publish:
    https://bikerumor.com/2018/12/31/bik...nger-triggy-x/
    BikeYoke staff member - www.bikeyoke.com

  52. #52
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    Remote Set Screw?

    I just installed a post on my Stumpjumper and I was wondering does anyone know if the set screw for the remote is needed? I've emailed Bike Yoke and haven't gotten a response. I kinda think it's just an extra but the remote does have a spot for it. Lemme know, thanks

  53. #53
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    Hi Mike,

    Can you tell me, when you´ve sent the e-mail? I didn´t get one.
    I am happy to reply to your e-mail.

    Cheers
    Sacki
    BikeYoke staff member - www.bikeyoke.com

  54. #54
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    The newer remote is designed to work with either end of the cable depending on what your particular post needs.

    I once saw a friend struggle when his cable got sticky and the nipple popped out if the lever mid use and wouldn't fall back in. That issue is easily avoided by using the set screw to keep the nipple in place.

  55. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by sacki View Post
    Hi Mike,

    Can you tell me, when you´ve sent the e-mail? I didn´t get one.
    I am happy to reply to your e-mail.

    Cheers
    Sacki
    It was on the 9th sent to info@bti-usa.com
    Does the remote need that set screw for the cable? It works fine without it

  56. #56
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    Well, even though BTI is our distributor for the US, it makes them not being BikeYoke, right? I might miss replying to e-mails, but it doesn´t happen very often and I don´t remeber getting one from you. ;-)

    Maybe this will answer your question:
    https://reviews.mtbr.com/new-bikeyoke-smart-gadgets

    You can cut the nipple and use a set screw instead for clamping the cable. This allows easier installation, as trimming the housing to length is easier to do.
    BikeYoke staff member - www.bikeyoke.com

  57. #57
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    Hi Sacki

    I need a new set screw (asap) where the cable attaches to the bottom of the post. Is there a distribution channel in Canada for small parts like this?
    Could you maybe post the specs of this screw. M4 x ? x ?.


    https://www.bikeyoke.de/en/revive-cable-clamp.html

    thanks

  58. #58
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    You can get in touch with
    wheelthingnorthvancouver – all walks of life all ride a bike
    or
    https://s4-suspension.myshopify.com/
    Or you can look for a cable clamp for KS LEV Integra. They use the same exact part on their posts.
    BikeYoke staff member - www.bikeyoke.com

  59. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by coolatt View Post
    I need a new set screw (asap) where the cable attaches to the bottom of the post. Is there a distribution channel in Canada for small parts like this?
    seriously?!..
    Any Home Supply Store or how it's called there where you live.. Where screws, nuts and other stuff..
    OK

  60. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by sacki View Post
    You can get in touch with
    wheelthingnorthvancouver – all walks of life all ride a bike
    or
    https://s4-suspension.myshopify.com/
    Or you can look for a cable clamp for KS LEV Integra. They use the same exact part on their posts.
    Thank you

  61. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by ka81ua View Post
    seriously?!..
    Any Home Supply Store or how it's called there where you live.. Where screws, nuts and other stuff..
    Incorrect

  62. #62
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    I'm going to by a Revive post setup just because of this thread. Great info.

  63. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by coolatt View Post
    Incorrect
    what is incorrect?
    OK

  64. #64
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    Hi!

    I’m moving a Revive from one bike to another, and will be swapping the lower tube unit from 30.9 o 31.6. I’ve watched the video and read the comments above.

    Before I get started I want to triple check — I do NOT need to remove air from the post. CORRECT?

    TIA

  65. #65
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    Correct!
    BikeYoke staff member - www.bikeyoke.com

  66. #66
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    BikeYoke staff member - www.bikeyoke.com

  67. #67
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    https://nsmb.com/articles/bikeyoke-r...r-post/#c32030


    HOW is it possible to use other-way orientation with kit lever? I see it's possible only with your new Triggy X but not with stock..
    OK

  68. #68
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    Depends on when you bought the REVIVE. We did a running change and all posts built from middle 2018 already came with the new Triggy:
    https://www.bikeyoke.de/de/triggy.html
    Hence no more Triggy front and Triggy rear.
    If you are interested in the new paddle, let me know by PM.
    BikeYoke staff member - www.bikeyoke.com

  69. #69
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    How do you remove the upper bushing ? ... doing a lower service plus have a new wiper and upper bushing...BTW post in great shape this is my first service after over 2,200 miles

    I have a little wear on the bottom outer of the post but I think it's just how it rubs in the frame everything else pretty awesome but I'd like to replace this upper bushing while I have it apart does not seem to want to come out and I'm not going to use any Sharp tools.

    EDIT : Dug it out carefully... Then use the old one to help get the new one pressed in.

    Overall pretty straightforward everything was in decent shape the one foam washer with bit dirty.

    Hardest part for me was finding a thin 7 mm box end wrench all my good ones were too wide.

    I am a medium wrench so that was first dropper service.

    Feels really good afterwards.

    I think partly in decent shape and because I wipe it down after every ride and it pull it out every so often and clean the seat tube and post outers.
    Last edited by bvader; 5 Days Ago at 06:27 PM.

  70. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by bvader View Post
    Hardest part for me was finding a thin 7 mm box end wrench all my good ones were too wide.
    Not the first tim to be mentioned here by the way..
    OK

  71. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by bvader View Post
    How do you remove the upper bushing ?
    Is it about #38 Upper stanchion bushing?
    https://www.bikeyoke.de/en/revive-lower-tube-unit.html
    OK

  72. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by ka81ua View Post
    Is it about #38 Upper stanchion bushing?
    https://www.bikeyoke.de/en/revive-lower-tube-unit.html
    Yup Part #38 upper station bushing I got it out but made me nervous is there a preferred technique?

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