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    BikeYoke REVIVE - Info, Tipps, Tricks, Troubleshooting

    This thread is to be all about the BikeYoke REVIVE, and I´ll try to collect all relevant information and findings in this initial post. So it´s worth stopping by here once in a while, as I´ll try to keep the information in this post up to date constantly.
    Before asking question, please check, if you you can find the answer in the first post.

    Please note, that you should only work on your post, if you know what you are doing, and if you are an experienced mechanic. Those information may not be exhaustive.
    Any work performed by the customer is performed at its own risk.

    Alright, here we go.
    Let me know, if you want me to add, or if I missed something.


    GENERAL MAINTENANCE

    Checking air pressure:

    1. Place the post right side up and perform a proper reset. The post can remain in the frame.
    2. Fully extend the post.
    3. After the reset and extension, give it at least one minute of rest to let the oil drain off the reset valve area. Oil can then run down on the ID of the stanchion, away from the air valve and reset valve.
    4. Remove saddle clamps and air valve cap
    5. Attach air pump and air adapter.

    NOTE: Never release air without a pump attached, as releasing too quickly can cause oil to exit the post, which then has to be refilled. Always use the pump´s release mechanism and release slowly !

    6. Fill up the post to desired pressure.
    Factory setting is 250psi. Less pressure will make the post slower, more pressure will make the post quicker. Don´t got below 200psi or higher than 300psi!
    7. Remove the pump and adapter and make sure, not to cause pressure loss from inside the post when doing so. Even a little air loss could mean significant pressure loss, as the air volume inside the post is very small.
    8. Reinstall air valve cap and saddle clamps.

    NOTE: Only lightly attach pump and/or air adapter. If you tighten the adapter too firmly, the o-rings inside adapter and pump might get squeezed and cause the valve core to stay open for a split second too long. This can result in oil loss and will lead to malfunction. Be very careful when attaching the pump and adapter. Don´t tighten them too much!


    Lower tube service


    If your lower tube is dirty on the inside, or if the guiding pins and/or bushings are worn, your post should receive a lower tube service, our so called “100hr”, service“.

    Here you can find a video for the lower service:

    Read the description!

    NOTE:
    Do not release the air just for the lower tube service. This is not neccessary and you only risk losing oil. If you anyway want to release air, then please follow the guide above.
    Upper bushing usually does not need to be replaced during the first couple lower tube services. It ist much more important to properly clean and re-grease the tubes, and replacing the pins and the small foam ring, if worn.


    Recommended greases:
    R.S.P. Soft Grease
    R.S.P. Slick Kick
    Buzzy's Slick Honey
    SRAM Butter
    KS Post Paste


    NOTE:
    Do not use WD40, Brunox, Fork Juice or similar (penetrating) oils on your REVIVE or on any other your suspension parts in general. Those products will just wash out your grease over time!
    Also do not use any other oil inside your lower tube. Proper grease is the way to go.

    It is recommended to externally grease your stanchion wiper once in a while. Just apply some grease after wiping it clean and dry. Remove eccessive grease. This will help repell water and keep your rubber soft.

    There are not a lot of special tools that you need for taking your post apart, and the most “exotic” ones might be circlip pliers. Those are the ones we use:

    for big circlip for lower tube
    Knipex 48 41 J21
    https://www.knipex.de/index.php?id=1...57&artID=34787

    for small circlip for the cartridge/lower bushing
    Knipex 49 41 A11
    https://www.knipex.de/index.php?id=1...58&artID=34789


    TROUBLESHOOTING REVIVE

    I had reset my REVIVE, but it still sags play
    In rare cases, a lot of air could have gotten inside the hydraulic lockout tube, or the oil started foaming for some reason. In this case, it can require multiple resets to remove all air. Give your post a few seconds between every rest procedure and perform them not too quickly.


    My REVIVE sags a bit under heavy load
    Every hydraulically locked seatpost – no matter the brand – can be compressed slightly. This is normal. Just a few of the reasons for this behavior can be found below:


    1. Unlike one may think, oil is not completely incompressible. Oil can be slightly compressed.
    2. O-rings need space for proper installation and function inside their grooves. This means, o.rings allow minimal movement and this can add up over several o-rings.
    3. Tubes can change shape under pressure, especially, if thin-walled and under inner pressure. Bloading tubes can have more volume and allow the post to move.

    All those and more contribute to the pehomenon, that you may be able to slightly compress the post under high load. However, this movement does not feel springy, as if the post had air inside. It feels very hard and you can only notice the compression for example, if you look at the wiper and the stanchion moving in by 1-2mm.


    My remote lever does not return properly
    This may come from one of the two reasons:


    1. The bottom actuation assembly ist dirty or not greased.
      Your frame inside can collect water or mud over time from washing or riding in muddy conditions. Water can cause corrosion and/or wash away the grease from the bottom actuation unit and/or dirt. Mud can stick to the actuator and cause it to go get stuck.
      Cleaning yor post and re-greasing the actuator should help in this case.
      You should be advised to remove your post after washing the bike and let the frame dry from the inside, too. You´ll be suprised, how easily sometimes water can accumulate inside a frame
      Keeping your frame dry on the inside is not only good for the post, it´ll also prolong the life of your frame bearings and BB.
    2. Pressure is not high enough.
      Normal pressure inside the REVIVE is usually between 210-250psi (factory setting = 250 psi) Less pressure means not only, that the post returns slower, but it also, that remote is easier to push. If the pressure is too low, the resulting force on the actuator may not be high enough to push the actuator back to full extension.
      Set the pressure back to the factory setting following the air-setup instructions above.
      Using a valve key, please also check proper torque for the valve core. After installation, valve cores and seats can settle and require re-tightening.Correct torque for valve cores is 0.3-0.5 Nm.



    My post is moving very stickily and/or slowly

    Find a few possible reasons below:


    1. Pressure too low
      Set the post bakc to 250psi
    2. Seat clamp/collar is too tight
      Check your seat clamp / seat collar for proper torque. If clamps are not tightended properly, or if seattubes are not reamed properly, a seat clamp can squeeze the lower tube and cause binding of the tubes to each other. Check your seattube for proper inner diameter and your collar for proper torque. Torque only enough to allow no movement while riding normally. It is OK for the post to move, when you fall, or if it gets an impact from the side. You may know this advice from your brake levers. In case of crash, it is OK, if parts can move.
    3. Foam ring is clogged
      At the bottom of your post, you can spot several small holes. Those holes are important, as the post lower tube needs to „breathe“ during extending and lowering. On the inner side those holes are covered by a small foam ring, which allowe air flow, but keeps most dirt and contamination out of the post. If this foam ring is clogged, the air can not enter/exit the lower tube during movement and will slow down the action and might even stop it in the middle of moving. You can easily clean this foam ring, by removing the lower circlip. Siding up the lower tube will giv you acces to the foam ring and you can use a clean tissue to clean it. If it needs to be replaced, you need a REVIVE service kit and perform a “100hr service”.
    4. Contaminated lower tube
      Dirt inside the lower tube increases friction. Perform a 100hr lower tube service.
    5. Low temperatures
      REVIVE is designed to work in low temperatures, even below 0°C. However, please note, that you may need to re-adjust the pressure when riding in the cold. Your post will not have the same pressure, when going from cozy the house onto the cold winter trail. Colder tempertures will slow the post down, as pressure decreases. Set the pressure for the tempereratur you are goinf to use the post in.
      NOTE: Don´t forget to re-set the pressure for warmer temperatures!



    My remote (or reset function) is extremely hard to enage
    This is very likely due to a big temperature difference between using the post and storing the post.
    If the post has time to heat up, while it is not being used, the temperature increase will make the oil want to expand. Since the oil is housed in a closed space, the oil can not expand, instead the pressure increases.
    Examples:
    You ride in sub-zero temps, and store the bike at +20°C in the house.
    You ride the bike in summer, then put the bike in your car, where it heats up.
    This extra pressure needs to be overcome through either the reset valve or the main valve via the remote. Once you enganged either the reset function or the remote, the pressure will equalize and post will work normally.

    The easiest was to release the extra pressure form the inner chamber is by using a 4mm hex key and engage the reset function. Never use the small REVIVE Quick-Reset-Lever to opene the stiffened-up post, as you may break the lever. Use a 4mm L-shaped Allen key instead.

    NOTE: It can help to store the bike with not fully extended, but a half-way dropped post.


    My REVIVE or my saddle are creaking

    First make sure, that it is really the post and not the saddle, that is creaking. Make sure your upper saddle clamp is aligned properly and that your bolts are tightenend evenly with 7Nm. The bolt shafts and threads need to be clear an not touch the saddle clamp and or the post head.

    NOTE: The upper clamp can be slightly repositioned during fastening the bolts. You can slide the upper clamp back and forth slightly while tightening. If the upper clamp is positioned too much forward, the bolts can touch the upper clamp or the post head and cause creaking. Hold the upper clamp back with your fingers, while you tighten the bolts evenly.
    Especially on frames with slack seattube angles and/or saddles that are pointing nose-downward need can cause contact between bolt and post head/clamp. Proper alignment of the upper clamp can help
    .


    REVIVE, WEIGHTS
    125/30.9: 465g
    125/31.6: 486g
    125/34.9: 530g

    160/30.9: 525g
    160/31.6: 545g
    160/34.9: 590g

    185/30.9: 560g
    185/31.6: 580g
    185/34.9: 630g

    Triggy without clamp: 23g
    Splits Clamp: 13g

    Ti-saddle-clamp-bolts save about 10g compared to regular bolts.


    Links to interesting media content about droppers in general: https://www.bikerumor.com/2018/01/24...l-do-you-need/
    https://www.bikerumor.com/2018/02/0...termine-what-dropper-post-will-fit-your-bike/
    https://www.bikerumor.com/2018/02/0...ntain-your-dropper-seatpost/#comment-32220407 https://www.bikerumor.com/2018/02/14...atpost-remote/


    Dropper length comparison (market overview):
    Dropper Seatposts


    REVIVE test reviews:
    Pinkbike review
    Vital MTB shootout
    NSMB review
    Spoke Magazine review
    Velomotion shootout
    Sicklines long term review - part one
    Sicklines long term review - part two
    NSMB review
    MBR shootout
    MTBR review
    Singletracks review
    OutdoorGearLab - Dropper Shootout
    OutDoorGearLab - single review
    Vojomag – NL
    Vojomag – FR
    AMBMAG - AUS
    Rotorburn

    Additonal helpful information:


    • We are currently not planning on dropper posts with more than 185mm drop.
    • No, we are currently not planning on droppers posts for 27.2mm seat tube diameter.




    • How do I know, if my REVIVE has Microvalve or not?

      1. All REVIVE MAX have Microvalve
      2. All REVIVE 185 have Microvalve
      3. Following serial numbers have Microvalve feature:

      1705xxx, 1706xxx, 1707xxx......... and higher
      1801xxx, 1802xxx, 1803xxx......... and higher
      2705xxx, 2706xxx, 2707xxx......... and higher
      2801xxx, 2802xxx, 2803xxx......... and higher



    REVIVE explosion drawing:
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails BikeYoke REVIVE - Info, Tipps, Tricks, Troubleshooting-revive_explosion_view.jpg  

    BikeYoke REVIVE - Info, Tipps, Tricks, Troubleshooting-revive-troubleshooting-end-consumer-en-.jpg  

    BikeYoke REVIVE - Info, Tipps, Tricks, Troubleshooting-revive-service-schedule-en-.jpg  

    BikeYoke REVIVE - Info, Tipps, Tricks, Troubleshooting-revive-oil-grease-specs-en-.jpg  

    BikeYoke REVIVE - Info, Tipps, Tricks, Troubleshooting-mobil-dte-10-excel-15-specification-sheet-.jpg  

    BikeYoke REVIVE - Info, Tipps, Tricks, Troubleshooting-revive-125.jpg  

    BikeYoke REVIVE - Info, Tipps, Tricks, Troubleshooting-revive-160.jpg  

    BikeYoke REVIVE - Info, Tipps, Tricks, Troubleshooting-revive-185.jpg  

    BikeYoke REVIVE - Info, Tipps, Tricks, Troubleshooting-revive-max-125.jpg  

    BikeYoke REVIVE - Info, Tipps, Tricks, Troubleshooting-revive-max-160.jpg  

    BikeYoke REVIVE - Info, Tipps, Tricks, Troubleshooting-revive-max-185.jpg  

    BikeYoke REVIVE - Info, Tipps, Tricks, Troubleshooting-revive_exploded_view.jpg  

    Attached Files Attached Files
    Last edited by sacki; 11-01-2019 at 10:01 AM.
    BikeYoke staff member - www.bikeyoke.com

  2. #2
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    Good info. Thanks for posting


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    Many thanks for compiling all of this information!

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    Great customer service here for real riders

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  5. #5
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    Agree thanks for starting this thread!

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    The first time I tried fitting the reset lever to my new post I split the retaining o-ring. What are the specs on the o ring so I can swing by the hardware store and grab a new one?

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    It is a 2.5x1.0 O-ring. Size is not very important, all it does is generating friction to keep the lever inside. As long as there is enough sqeeze, you can use any o-ring. You may as well use a cut rubber band or a thread and wrap it around the groove. As long as it makes the lever stay inside by squeeze, anything should be fine.
    BikeYoke staff member - www.bikeyoke.com

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    I used some BS607 o-rings. 2.54x1.02mm primarily as they're pretty easy to get hold of in the UK. If I'd struggled, I would have tried ptfe plumbing tape next.

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    Currently doing a lower service and my v2 service kit has an IGUS bushing that is not present in my post. Do I replace what is currently in my post with the IGUS? if so, what needs swapped? thanks.

    The video here is what my post looks like:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J_2kQv7fJbc

    The video here has the IGUS bushing:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=62Qiil7IL08

    Thanks for the help...

  10. #10
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    is it ok to clamp the post in a work stand to hold up the bike?


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    Better not
    OK

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    Quote Originally Posted by pryde1 View Post
    Currently doing a lower service and my v2 service kit has an IGUS bushing that is not present in my post. Do I replace what is currently in my post with the IGUS? if so, what needs swapped? thanks.

    The video here is what my post looks like:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J_2kQv7fJbc

    The video here has the IGUS bushing:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=62Qiil7IL08

    Thanks for the help...

    Replying to my own post as I just seen there is running change to replace the old lower bushing and metal washer with just the new gray IGUS bushing.

    Already put in back together with the old bushing/metal washer so guess I missed that one. Oh well, everything actually looked pretty good but I went ahead a replaced the 6 pins and wiper seal.

    If someone says it is crucial to put in the new IGUS bushing then I will pull it back apart but otherwise I will leave it be.

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    @ Pryde1: As long as you don´t have any noticeable play, it is fine to not replace the lower bushing or the pins and just clean and re-grease the post.

    @cjsb: Well, I always clamp my posts in my bike-stand, and never had any issues. However, I have rubber/plastic clamping jaws, which are clean and I do not use too much force to clamp.
    Also: Never use the bike-stand to forcingly keep the bike in a certain postion. Allow the bike-stand/bike to even out.
    That being said, yes you can clamp your post in a proper bike stand with proper jaws (or wrapped in old tire tubes).
    BUT you can also damage your post, if you are really not using your brain.
    BikeYoke staff member - www.bikeyoke.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by sacki View Post
    @ Pryde1: As long as you don´t have any noticeable play, it is fine to not replace the lower bushing or the pins and just clean and re-grease the post.

    @cjsb: Well, I always clamp my posts in my bike-stand, and never had any issues. However, I have rubber/plastic clamping jaws, which are clean and I do not use too much force to clamp.
    Also: Never use the bike-stand to forcingly keep the bike in a certain postion. Allow the bike-stand/bike to even out.
    That being said, yes you can clamp your post in a proper bike stand with proper jaws (or wrapped in old tire tubes).
    BUT you can also damage your post, if you are really not using your brain.
    Thanks Sacki.

    There was a few millimeters of play but swapping the pins seamed to help. It now feels like my wife's brand new revive (slight play for/aft) so I guess the pins were likely wore. Also noticed there was only 150 lbs of air in it so I went up to 250. Seams to be working like new again. I will replace the bushing next time in there.

    I have put many hard miles on this post the past 1.5 years in wet, gritty terrain and so far no real problems. the insides looked much nicer/cleaner than I expected.

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    ^^^That right there is why I really appreciate Sacki and BikeYoke. You don't automatically assume the customer is of the lowest common denominator and default to the solution that exposes you to the least amount of liability. You give real answers for the real world. Thank You.

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    Quote Originally Posted by cjsb View Post
    is it ok to clamp the post in a work stand to hold up the bike?
    Yes in case, you meet the conditions:
    1/ Clamping jaws are soft and clean.
    2/ Both bike wheels stay on the ground.

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    WOW - JUST WOW!

    We´re nominated "Best Hardware" from Singletrack Magazine´s readers:
    https://singletrackworld.com/2018/09...018-finalists/
    Only accompanied by Rock Shox Lyrik and Shimano´s new, yet not available, XTR group.
    I can´t even express, how proud that makes us!

    It´d be very cool, of you could support us with your vote here:
    https://singletrackworld.com/reader-awards-2018-voting/
    BikeYoke staff member - www.bikeyoke.com

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    Awesome!! You deserve it!

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    Congrats! I do love mine a looot!
    Make a little nicer remote for it, something like the wolf tooth makes and it will be perfect.

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    I created a login on Singletrack world just to vote for you. I was glad the vote form allowed me to skip entries - like many on MTBR, I'm American and some of that makes no sense at all if you're not in the UK. BikeYoke Revive was an easy pick.

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    Thanks a lot to all that support us! It means a lot to us!
    BikeYoke staff member - www.bikeyoke.com

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    The Revive got my vote on Singletrack (along with keeper of the peak for online service).

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    I voted too.

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    Hi, I have two Revives and absolutely love them. But even the best products can't compensate for idiots.... The seat post did not extend the last 3 cm so i checked the pressure. I had just done a lower service so i knew it wasn't that. It was only 150 psi and i gave it 250. So fare so good. But then i forgot to put on that little cap on the valve. Then when i used the reset function oil was spilling out. A lot of oil. Now it does not work. So how do i refill oil? And what oil?

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    1. All relevant oil specs /type and volume) can be found in the documents above. The post will also work with other oild of similar viscosity. I am talking about actual viscosity, not WT numbers. This here is worth reading:
    Suspension fluids | Peter Verdone Designs
    https://www.peterverdone.com/wiki/in...spension_Fluid
    2. All relevant specs can also be found on our website. Just go to the arctile description of any REVIVE dropper post, then to "Maintenance" and/or "Documents".
    There are also links to videos of lower tube service and full rebuild

    However,
    You can refill the oil through the valve stem after removing the valve core.
    A small syringe will do the job to push the oil back in.
    The problem is, that you don´t know, how much oil you´ve lost, or how much oil is still inside. Now the REVIVE is not very sensitive about absolutely correct oil volume. +/- 2cc are OK. Little too much oil make the post very firm toward full drop. Little too few oil can make the post not lock out properly or cause the post to need more frequent resets.

    The other option is sending it back to our service center for a full service/rebuild
    BikeYoke staff member - www.bikeyoke.com

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    Hi, thank you for the information. After leaving the seat post for a while it seems to work ok, even though it list som oil. I will refill it anyway. From the spec i understand that i need a oil with ISO Viscosity Grade of 15 mm2/s. I will look for the exact Mobil oil that you use, but I'm afraid it is difficult to find in my town. But from reading it seems like Motorex 2,5W has the correct ISO Viscosity Grade, 15 mm2/s. I can buy that here.
    In the spec it also says 5% with something "non stick.....". I have slickoleum/slick honey. Does that mean that i should mix inn Slick Honey with a mass that is 5% of the oil i will add? Or is it 5% of the volume? I don't quite understand what this grease does that the oil doesn't do...

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    Our REVIVE will basically work with (m)any suspension oil(s). Please on´t nail me down on that, if you find an oil, that won´t do the job properly! We´ve tested dozens of them, and all worked, but in the end decided to go for the Mobil, because it simply performed best.
    The R.S.P. No Stick Slip is NOT Slick Honey. Slick Honey is a grease. R.S.P. No stick Slip is an additive, that reduces stiction. Don´t ask me, what it is and how it works. I have never really been a fan of "fancy" additives, but R.S.P. No Stick Slip actually reduces stiction in a fork and shock and also our post. You don´t need to use it. However, we´ve found out, that, especially in cold temperatures, it helps the post function on the level that it does.
    It would be 5% of the volume,but that wouldn´t even really matter, since densities are very close to each other.
    BikeYoke staff member - www.bikeyoke.com

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    I had an issue with mine today on the trail. I dropped it through a rocky section and the Lever felt loose then tight and the post kept dropping under weight and then popping back up when unseated and wouldn’t lock in anywhere.

    Turns out the cable ferrule cover on the post end had slowly become fouled up and crept its way up and out of the recess it slips into.

    Went back to the car and had to take off the triggy so I could slide the cable back into the frame. Then removed the post from the frame and used a knife to slice off the dags and slide it back in. There’s no way I could have fixed it trail side.

    I should have taken pics while I had it out.
    Looks like I’ll have to replace the housing at some stage as my fiddling with it seems to have put a heavy curve in it near the BB, however the actuation still seems as smooth as before.

    This was on a Santa Cruz Hightower LT

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    Anyone checked if you can lighten it up with carbon cradle and POP yokes?

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    New review published on Sicklines:

    Sicklines long term review - part two
    BikeYoke staff member - www.bikeyoke.com

  31. #31
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    One year old this month. Works perfectly. Zero issues in 175(ish) rides. Some of these were Tahoe or Downieville, hardcore 3-5 hr Expert level rides into the abyss. Congratulations Sacki. I am still wondering if there is a way to use any kind of spacer to change my 160mm to 150. I am shorter rider on a medium Canfield Brothers Riot, and the rear tire will buzz my saddle on big hits or G-outs. But its fine if I need to keep living with it. New saddle $60. Indesctructible Dropper Post, Priceless!

  32. #32
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    Unfortunately, we do not have spacers to limit the travel. We´d love to do so, but we haven´t found a reliable, customer DIY solution.
    BikeYoke staff member - www.bikeyoke.com

  33. #33
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    Just stumbled over this on facebook and I was super excited and pleasently surprised, because I must admit, that I haven´t heard of OutdoorGearLab before:

    OutdoorGearLab - Dropper Shootout
    OutDoorGearLab - single review

    It is even more interesting and exciting, because I believe, that is is the most independent and at the same most elaborate review of our REVIVE, that I have seen so far.
    Also, apparently they buy all their reviewed products incognito for regular retail prices, as they explain here:
    https://www.outdoorgearlab.com/about
    https://www.outdoorgearlab.com/faq

    Super stoked to see this outstanding outcome of this test!
    Even if, I am a little bit confused by the weight score, as other, shorter, but at the same time heavier posts (e.g. e13), score higher than the REVIVE.
    BikeYoke staff member - www.bikeyoke.com

  34. #34
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    My Revive failed for the first time on my ride yesterday after 1 year and 3 months of use. For the last few weeks I've been suspecting that there wasn't enough air pressure in my post anymore, as the return speed seemed lazy. In the middle of my ride, I raised my post then sat down, and the saddle dropped all the way down. I tried again, and the same thing happened. Wtf?!! My Revive didn't feel "springy" when I sat on my saddle, rather it felt like I was pushing the trigger and dropping the saddle.

    I glanced down at my 2-by trigger as I raised the saddle a couple more times, then released the trigger, and I could see that the nub on the end of the cable was not snapping down against the stop in the trigger. I thought my cable housing must be contaminated. I decided to stop and see if everything was okay with the connection on the bottom of the post. I pulled my Revive out of my seat tube, and I pulled on the housing so that the the black plastic ferrule came out of the stop, then I re-inserted the ferrule back into the stop. That solved the issue for the rest of my ride.

    According to sacki's troubleshooting section:

    My remote lever does not return properly
    This may come from one of the two reasons:

    1....
    2. Pressure is not high enough.
    Today, I decided to add some air to my Revive, but the instructions in the manual aren't very clear. According to the manual, it looks like you have to disassemble every piece in the head of the post to add air. That isn't the case. The following is what I did.

    ADDING AIR TO YOUR POST:

    1) According to sacki, before adding any air you should do a revive, then wait a couple of minutes. Taking the saddle off and cleaning the parts takes a few minutes, so do the revive before taking your saddle off. Today was the first time I've ever used the revive feature. When removing the saddle clamps, note the orientation of each half of the saddle clamp. One piece has longer rails on one end than the other, and the end with the longer rails points to the rear; and if I remember correctly, the other half has a casting between the rails that looks a bit like an arrow, which points to the rear.

    2) With the saddle clamps off, you can see the revive mechanism. If you turn the 4mm bolt clockwise, i.e. when you revive your post, it levers a thick bar against the cap on top of the air valve. And, if you turn the 4mm bolt counter clockwise, the thick bar will point straight up, giving you access to the air valve.

    3) I used a q-tip to pry the cap off the air valve, which came off easily.

    4) *Lightly* screw the air valve adapter (that came in the packaging with your trigger) onto the air valve. Then *lightly* screw your shock pump onto the air valve adapter.

    5) Inflate to desired pressure. sacki says you need a high quality two step shock pump, but I read a review of shock pumps that says all shock pumps are nearly identical, and they are designed not to release air from whatever you are pumping up when you unscrew the pump.

    6) I have a 7 year old shock pump that came with a Santa Cruz Blur LT2, and I pumped up my Revive to 210 psi.

    7) Renistall air valve cap.

    8) Turn the 4mm bolt clockwise so that the thick bar is touching the air valve cap.

    9) Reinstall the seat.

    I don't know if my post has 210 psi in it or not, but now my post is snapping back up with a sharp !bang! I had no issues with my Revive on my ride today.

    I also used grease instead of friction compound on my post, and I went "dry" everywhere else. We'll see how that goes.
    Last edited by happyriding; 11-10-2018 at 04:31 PM.

  35. #35
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    Just a quick not on the comment above.
    You don´t have to take the reset lever apart to access the valve.
    Only if you´ve lost your air adapter, you CAN disassemble the reset axle to access the valve without the air adapter and the shock pump directly.
    I tried to make it as clear as possible in the manual, and I am sorry, if it is confusing. Here is a copy of the mentioned manual page, where I highlighted the bold "OR" with yellow marker:
    BikeYoke REVIVE - Info, Tipps, Tricks, Troubleshooting-pump.png

    Glad to hear, the post works fine, again.
    BikeYoke staff member - www.bikeyoke.com

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by sacki View Post
    1. All relevant oil specs /type and volume) can be found in the documents above. The post will also work with other oild of similar viscosity. I am talking about actual viscosity, not WT numbers. This here is worth reading:
    Suspension fluids | Peter Verdone Designs
    https://www.peterverdone.com/wiki/in...spension_Fluid
    2. All relevant specs can also be found on our website. Just go to the arctile description of any REVIVE dropper post, then to "Maintenance" and/or "Documents".
    There are also links to videos of lower tube service and full rebuild

    However,
    You can refill the oil through the valve stem after removing the valve core.
    A small syringe will do the job to push the oil back in.
    The problem is, that you don´t know, how much oil you´ve lost, or how much oil is still inside. Now the REVIVE is not very sensitive about absolutely correct oil volume. +/- 2cc are OK. Little too much oil make the post very firm toward full drop. Little too few oil can make the post not lock out properly or cause the post to need more frequent resets.

    The other option is sending it back to our service center for a full service/rebuild
    ok so i had the same problem, i released the air with a shock pump with the post extended and i still lost a bunch of oil. i removed the valve core out so i could replace the oil with some RockOil SVI 10 i have kicking around. i drained out the rest of the oil so i could get an accurate 41.5 ml back in there but going thru the valve is just not practical, it's just not wide enough even with a small 10ml syrnge. where is the video you are talking about for a full service?

    thanks

  37. #37
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    The link to the video can be found here on our website in the article description of any REVIVE dropper post:
    BikeYoke REVIVE - Info, Tipps, Tricks, Troubleshooting-cartridge-rebuild.jpg
    Here is the direct link:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YP3o...ature=youtu.be
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  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by sacki View Post
    The link to the video can be found here on our website in the article description of any REVIVE dropper post:
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	cartridge rebuild.jpg 
Views:	183 
Size:	109.3 KB 
ID:	1224093
    Here is the direct link:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YP3o...ature=youtu.be
    ok great, thanks

  39. #39
    Hoolie Ghoulie on Strava.
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    SACKI, I tried to order rebuild kit, but website is sold out (version w/ metal spring around wiper). I need to replace wiper/brass keys. Any timeframe?

  40. #40
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    Hey, Hoolie!
    I am not sure what you mean, but both spare parts kits (lower tube service kit and o-ring kits for cartridge rebuils) are available in every size/type.
    Does it really show out of stock wheny ou go to website?
    BikeYoke staff member - www.bikeyoke.com

  41. #41
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    Winter time is service time!

    GREAT NEWS FOR ALL OUR AMERICAN REVIVE OWNERS

    Our US service partner, the guys from Dirtlabs, are offering a funky special deal on two different REVIVE service packages during the cold time of the year.

    • Lower tube service, $35* - includes lower tube clean and regrease + lower bushing + pin + foam ring + wiper replacement (save $15)


    • Full service, $60* - includes Lower tube service + hydraulic cartridge rebuild with complete seal replacement (save $30)
      Add $5 on the full service and you get a Microvalve upgrade for your 1st gen REVIVE



    *offer is valid until 2019/01/31, shipping cost and taxes are not included, offer can not be combined with any other deals/offers

    If you are interested, get in touch with the guys from Dirtlabs directly via e-mail [email protected] or by visiting their website to have your REVIVE prepared and ready for combat in the spring time.

    Here is a direct link to their service form:
    https://www.dirtlabs.com/get-service-individuals-form/

    We wish you a great weekend!
    Your BikeYoke and Dirtlabs team
    Last edited by sacki; 12-01-2018 at 01:57 PM.
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  42. #42
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    Yes its, web order is working. Damn, I just ordered. Trying to cancel my new order, since I saw new offer on last entry of $60 service at dirtlab.

  43. #43
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    Where can one find the serial number on the post? I want to check to be sure it's the 2.0.

    This is the number on the box:

    BikeYoke REVIVE - Info, Tipps, Tricks, Troubleshooting-20181217_163922_hdr.jpg
    Last edited by CS645; 12-17-2018 at 08:41 AM.

  44. #44
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    I did two lower-leg services today. Here are my notes:

    Seatpost 1:

    This is a 160, it was about time for service, although our conditions are extremely harsh in the summer often, lots of mud and muck in the early and late season, so that might account for any accelerated wear. It got a little junky right towards the end of the season.

    There was some external corrosion on the external tube. This wasn't completely unexpected, the bike it's on doesn't have a seal at the internal routing hole, which is on the lower seat-tube. I'd imagine some moisture gets in here through the BB and this hole, although I usually try to keep a bead of silicone on it to minimize what can get in. This also goes back to the "fiber grip" carbon grease, but as I stated earlier, I haven't had good luck with trying to tighten dropper posts, they either slip or bind in the action, it's an imperfect system until the post is integrated into the frame (yuck) or incorporates some kind of collar with plastic spacers that we could stack to prevent slippage.

    Anyway, this proceeded well, everything pretty much like clockwork according to the video. Only issue I noticed internally was the long skinny rod that is pushed by the external lever had some corrosion on it.

    Seatpost 2:

    This one was admittedly overdue for service. It's a 125mm. It has "felt" smooth the entire time and possibly lulled me into a false sense of security. This is a "generation one", it has directional pins. I did not notice directional pins on the one above. This one is significantly older than the 160. I don't ride this bike "as much" as the one up top, but this one I XC race, including several 100 mile races.

    Externally though, this looked great. No corrosion issues on the outside.

    Right off the batt, I ran into problems, after removing the first C-clip, the external tube would not budge. I had to use a piece of PVC pipe with a diameter bigger than the inner tube to pound it back. Once I did manage to break it free, I liberally applied grease on both sides, it wouldn't slide off right away and I had to work it a bit. Once I did, I also noticed that the foam ring was warped, about half was on one side of the o-ring and half on the other side, rather than below it. Getting the tube off and the pins out, I noticed some corrosion on the silver metal piece that is left of the black tube and where the brass pins reside:

    BikeYoke REVIVE - Info, Tipps, Tricks, Troubleshooting-img_6001.jpg

    2nd pic is poor, sorry, but you can see the white a little better:

    BikeYoke REVIVE - Info, Tipps, Tricks, Troubleshooting-img_6002.jpg

    Interestingly, that same silver rod that is pushed by the external lever was completely perfect on this dropper, so that part was strange.

    Obviously, I should not let the post go so far and not service it, I take full responsibility for that. The other thing to think of is that just because it seems smooth does not mean everything is ok. This post appears to use some dissimilar metals that have galvanic potential. It appears the slots where the pins rest are not annodized, so that may be contributing to the corrosion issue. Rebuilt these both feel very nice. The lower service is pretty straightforward though and easy to do as far as steps. I guess I was expecting to find a lot of gummed up grease residue, which I did find some, but I wasn't expecting the internal corrosion.
    Last edited by Jayem; 12-15-2018 at 11:54 PM.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

    You're turning black metallic.

  45. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by sacki View Post
    Unfortunately, we do not have spacers to limit the travel. We´d love to do so, but we haven´t found a reliable, customer DIY solution.
    I did find this awhile back: Revive! | Peter Verdone Designs

  46. #46
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    BikeYoke staff member - www.bikeyoke.com

  47. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by sacki View Post
    My bike needs a Willy. I just noticed a layer of dried mud in the seatpost clamp that it would've stopped.

  48. #48
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    Got to look at my post in the morning. Its very slow/sticky returning. Checked the pressure today and it was down to 160psi so i pumped it back up to 250 but its still slow/sticky.
    Hopefully its just the foam ring that needs cleaning, it was warranty returned to my UK disti in August as the bushing had started to breakdown - they asked if I’d been using Muc-off (which I was) as they’d seen that happen before. Since then I haven’t used it, but am slightly apprehensive as its exactly the same symptoms as before.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    #bleedblackdieevil

  49. #49
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    Did you already try to do a lower tube service and check how the post looks inside?
    BikeYoke staff member - www.bikeyoke.com

  50. #50
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    Sorry yep - it was fine. Lower clean and degrease and it’s good as new again! Not as scary a process as I thought.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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  51. #51
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    Great to hear!
    Yeah, it is super simple and literally a 10-minute-job.

    Also interesting, as the guys from Bikerumor are the first to publish:
    https://bikerumor.com/2018/12/31/bik...nger-triggy-x/
    BikeYoke staff member - www.bikeyoke.com

  52. #52
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    Remote Set Screw?

    I just installed a post on my Stumpjumper and I was wondering does anyone know if the set screw for the remote is needed? I've emailed Bike Yoke and haven't gotten a response. I kinda think it's just an extra but the remote does have a spot for it. Lemme know, thanks

  53. #53
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    Hi Mike,

    Can you tell me, when you´ve sent the e-mail? I didn´t get one.
    I am happy to reply to your e-mail.

    Cheers
    Sacki
    BikeYoke staff member - www.bikeyoke.com

  54. #54
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    The newer remote is designed to work with either end of the cable depending on what your particular post needs.

    I once saw a friend struggle when his cable got sticky and the nipple popped out if the lever mid use and wouldn't fall back in. That issue is easily avoided by using the set screw to keep the nipple in place.

  55. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by sacki View Post
    Hi Mike,

    Can you tell me, when you´ve sent the e-mail? I didn´t get one.
    I am happy to reply to your e-mail.

    Cheers
    Sacki
    It was on the 9th sent to [email protected]
    Does the remote need that set screw for the cable? It works fine without it

  56. #56
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    Well, even though BTI is our distributor for the US, it makes them not being BikeYoke, right? I might miss replying to e-mails, but it doesn´t happen very often and I don´t remeber getting one from you. ;-)

    Maybe this will answer your question:
    https://reviews.mtbr.com/new-bikeyoke-smart-gadgets

    You can cut the nipple and use a set screw instead for clamping the cable. This allows easier installation, as trimming the housing to length is easier to do.
    BikeYoke staff member - www.bikeyoke.com

  57. #57
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    Hi Sacki

    I need a new set screw (asap) where the cable attaches to the bottom of the post. Is there a distribution channel in Canada for small parts like this?
    Could you maybe post the specs of this screw. M4 x ? x ?.


    https://www.bikeyoke.de/en/revive-cable-clamp.html

    thanks

  58. #58
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    You can get in touch with
    wheelthingnorthvancouver – all walks of life all ride a bike
    or
    https://s4-suspension.myshopify.com/
    Or you can look for a cable clamp for KS LEV Integra. They use the same exact part on their posts.
    BikeYoke staff member - www.bikeyoke.com

  59. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by coolatt View Post
    I need a new set screw (asap) where the cable attaches to the bottom of the post. Is there a distribution channel in Canada for small parts like this?
    seriously?!..
    Any Home Supply Store or how it's called there where you live.. Where screws, nuts and other stuff..
    OK

  60. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by sacki View Post
    You can get in touch with
    wheelthingnorthvancouver – all walks of life all ride a bike
    or
    https://s4-suspension.myshopify.com/
    Or you can look for a cable clamp for KS LEV Integra. They use the same exact part on their posts.
    Thank you

  61. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by ka81ua View Post
    seriously?!..
    Any Home Supply Store or how it's called there where you live.. Where screws, nuts and other stuff..
    Incorrect

  62. #62
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    I'm going to by a Revive post setup just because of this thread. Great info.

  63. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by coolatt View Post
    Incorrect
    what is incorrect?
    OK

  64. #64
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    Hi!

    I’m moving a Revive from one bike to another, and will be swapping the lower tube unit from 30.9 o 31.6. I’ve watched the video and read the comments above.

    Before I get started I want to triple check — I do NOT need to remove air from the post. CORRECT?

    TIA

  65. #65
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    Correct!
    BikeYoke staff member - www.bikeyoke.com

  66. #66
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    BikeYoke staff member - www.bikeyoke.com

  67. #67
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    https://nsmb.com/articles/bikeyoke-r...r-post/#c32030


    HOW is it possible to use other-way orientation with kit lever? I see it's possible only with your new Triggy X but not with stock..
    OK

  68. #68
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    Depends on when you bought the REVIVE. We did a running change and all posts built from middle 2018 already came with the new Triggy:
    https://www.bikeyoke.de/de/triggy.html
    Hence no more Triggy front and Triggy rear.
    If you are interested in the new paddle, let me know by PM.
    BikeYoke staff member - www.bikeyoke.com

  69. #69
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    How do you remove the upper bushing ? ... doing a lower service plus have a new wiper and upper bushing...BTW post in great shape this is my first service after over 2,200 miles

    I have a little wear on the bottom outer of the post but I think it's just how it rubs in the frame everything else pretty awesome but I'd like to replace this upper bushing while I have it apart does not seem to want to come out and I'm not going to use any Sharp tools.

    EDIT : Dug it out carefully... Then use the old one to help get the new one pressed in.

    Overall pretty straightforward everything was in decent shape the one foam washer with bit dirty.

    Hardest part for me was finding a thin 7 mm box end wrench all my good ones were too wide.

    I am a medium wrench so that was first dropper service.

    Feels really good afterwards.

    I think partly in decent shape and because I wipe it down after every ride and it pull it out every so often and clean the seat tube and post outers.
    Last edited by bvader; 02-17-2019 at 06:27 PM.

  70. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by bvader View Post
    Hardest part for me was finding a thin 7 mm box end wrench all my good ones were too wide.
    Not the first tim to be mentioned here by the way..
    OK

  71. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by bvader View Post
    How do you remove the upper bushing ?
    Is it about #38 Upper stanchion bushing?
    https://www.bikeyoke.de/en/revive-lower-tube-unit.html
    OK

  72. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by ka81ua View Post
    Is it about #38 Upper stanchion bushing?
    https://www.bikeyoke.de/en/revive-lower-tube-unit.html
    Yup Part #38 upper station bushing I got it out but made me nervous is there a preferred technique?

  73. #73
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    Sorry if this has been answered before. I just skimmed the thread. How do I rotate the cable foot? My a frame has a kink high up in the seat post. I found if rotate the post I can get it down further however the saddle rails are reversed

  74. #74
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    By hand, you just need to hold the lower part of the seatpost and rotate the actuator to the desired position.

  75. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aglo View Post
    By hand, you just need to hold the lower part of the seatpost and rotate the actuator to the desired position.
    Ok thanks. I tried that and it did move a little with some effort. This is a great feature to have on this post. For reference I’m fitting a 125 mm Revive on a Trek Fuel EX size 17.5

  76. #76
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    I initially set up my revive with a modified X9 front shifter I had been using with a previous post. I recently swapped over to the included bikeyoke trigger shifter.

    I suppose the X9 shifter has more leverage built in to it's throw, but the triggy feels way too stiff. Is this by design? I've never used any other trigger type shifter other that this one and X9. Are most seatpost shifters fairly stiff?

  77. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by ka81ua View Post
    what is incorrect?
    That screw is not available at any store, at least not around me. I located a wholesaler that would sell me a bulk amount of a possible match but I never did get the actual thread pitch from saki so I can't even be sure wholesaler one is correct, that's why I asked for the specs.

    In the end a lbs ordered me the KS Lev barrel and screw.

  78. #78
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    It's about #7 set screw M4x0.7x5
    Right?
    OK

  79. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by coolatt View Post
    That screw is not available at any store, at least not around me. I located a wholesaler that would sell me a bulk amount of a possible match but I never did get the actual thread pitch from saki so I can't even be sure wholesaler one is correct, that's why I asked for the specs.

    In the end a lbs ordered me the KS Lev barrel and screw.
    I am sorry, I must have missed this question about the thread pitch. Did you ask me by mail or here in the forums?
    The thread is a regular M4. M4 has a pitch of 0.7mm.
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  80. #80
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    What size (and thickness) wrenches are needed for the lower service?
    It is no measure of health to be well adjusted to a profoundly sick society.

  81. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by sacki View Post
    Depends on when you bought the REVIVE. We did a running change and all posts built from middle 2018 already came with the new Triggy:
    https://www.bikeyoke.de/de/triggy.html
    Hence no more Triggy front and Triggy rear.
    If you are interested in the new paddle, let me know by PM.
    Dear Sacki, thank you very much!!! Realy, thank you!
    Just got your new paddle from post.

    Great support from you.
    OK

  82. #82
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    Quote Originally Posted by WHALENARD View Post
    What size (and thickness) wrenches are needed for the lower service?
    Found it, 7mm & 13mm. This was in the written text portion of the video. I'm technologically challenged and my only source to the net is my crappy phone but the text portion is very informative. Sacki, maybe you could amend the video/txt to state that you don't need to release the air for a lower service? It seems oil escaping is problematic reading here and elsewhere.

    I plan to do the lower service this weekend though my post doesn't have many miles and works well. Curious to what I find as

    1- I never got the post to return with the authority I want despite using max psi. My friends post's return much faster.

    2- on the 3rd ride or so the stanchtion ended up scored and felt gummy. It was a wet ride (nothing crazy) and clearly debris was able to enter the top seal. This was pretty disappointling.

    I started lubing the stanchtion with tenacious oil or buzzy's every preride and this helped it's function.
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  83. #83
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    Quote Originally Posted by sacki View Post
    I am sorry, I must have missed this question about the thread pitch. Did you ask me by mail or here in the forums?
    The thread is a regular M4. M4 has a pitch of 0.7mm.
    No worries, you suggested the LEV barrel and set-screw in your reply, which is what I did.

    cheers

  84. #84
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    Hi guys.
    Just installed my revive 185mm, but im having a bit trouble with the remote handle not returning. The result is that i have to manually pull back the handle to lock the height. Either the wire has too much friction or the spring that resets the valve is too weak. I got a kink in the wire during installation, could that be it? I have previously had a fox transfer in the same frame, so the routing radius isnt too small.

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  85. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by mykle View Post
    Hi guys.
    Just installed my revive 185mm, but im having a bit trouble with the remote handle not returning. The result is that i have to manually pull back the handle to lock the height. Either the wire has too much friction or the spring that resets the valve is too weak. I got a kink in the wire during installation, could that be it? I have previously had a fox transfer in the same frame, so the routing radius isnt too small.

    Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
    I've used a transfer and the bikeyoke interchangeably (cable routing). It sounds like you have a significant cable kink/frayed cable, etc. Something got messed up IMO, rip out the cables and start over IMO. It's just as straightforward as any other dropper and operates similar to any other cable on a bike.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

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  86. #86
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    I've got an early Revive (without reset lever) that I finally performed a service on. The post was acting fine before the service, maybe a little slow, and I figured it was time.

    The service went well, but I did not replace anything, even though I probably should have put in a new foam ring. The post worked great for a few weeks.

    Now I'm having trouble pushing the post down the last inch or so. And I get a slow return that stops before reaching the top. I have to let go of the lever and push it again to get the final topout clunk that let's you know it's fully extended.

    It does not appear to be cable related. Any thoughts?

  87. #87
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    Probably not cable related but it sounds very much like a clogged foam ring.
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  88. #88
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jayem View Post
    I've used a transfer and the bikeyoke interchangeably (cable routing). It sounds like you have a significant cable kink/frayed cable, etc. Something got messed up IMO, rip out the cables and start over IMO. It's just as straightforward as any other dropper and operates similar to any other cable on a bike.
    The issue was that i had used some winter oil in the cable to reduce the chance of corrosion. This oil ended up being a poor choice, as it got veeeery sticky after a couple of weeks. Changed the cable and all is good!

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    Sacki:

    I have a couple Revive posts and have performed regular service on them and they both work great but one of them has a definite creak (sounds like an old barn door) when pedaling while seated, or just sitting on the bike for that matter.

    I know it is internal somehow as I have ensured all clamp bolts are torqued correct, clamps and saddle rails are clean, etc.

    When I do a lower service and clean/re-grease, the creak completely goes away for 1-2 rides then always returns. I have replaced all pins, IGUS bushing, etc with the service kits with no luck in getting rid of the noise. All internal parts look great with no wear. this post is on my "backup" bike which doesn't see that many miles.

    It is definitely the one post as I swapped in my other one (older revive with many more miles) and it is quiet as a mouse on the same bike.

    Any suggestions? Thanks.

  90. #90
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    Quote Originally Posted by mykle View Post
    The issue was that i had used some winter oil in the cable to reduce the chance of corrosion. This oil ended up being a poor choice, as it got veeeery sticky after a couple of weeks. Changed the cable and all is good!

    Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
    Good to hear!
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

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  91. #91
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    Sacki,

    Need your advise/help. My Bikeyoke Revive lever does not return fully. But only when I press the lever to allow the seat to go up. At the top (and almost at the top) when I release the lever the lever stays there (and hence the seat can be pushed down, so not good when on the trails). I thus need to use the back of my thumb to push the lever back out. It feels like there is no tension in the cable to pull the lever back out.

    However, when I press the lever to push the seat down, there is sufficient tension in the cable to cause the lever to return fully without any issues.

    Any ideas? I need to regrease the actuator and/or add air/psi?

    FYI, I live in Malaysia which has a hot tropical climate i.e. no seasons at all with hardly any temperature changes.

    Thanks in advance.

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    Quote Originally Posted by horriefic View Post
    Sacki,

    Need your advise/help. My Bikeyoke Revive lever does not return fully. But only when I press the lever to allow the seat to go up. At the top (and almost at the top) when I release the lever the lever stays there (and hence the seat can be pushed down, so not good when on the trails). I thus need to use the back of my thumb to push the lever back out. It feels like there is no tension in the cable to pull the lever back out.

    However, when I press the lever to push the seat down, there is sufficient tension in the cable to cause the lever to return fully without any issues.

    Any ideas? I need to regrease the actuator and/or add air/psi?

    FYI, I live in Malaysia which has a hot tropical climate i.e. no seasons at all with hardly any temperature changes.

    Thanks in advance.
    I've met a bug like you've just described. Problem was in the lever itself, the o-ring inside have been jammed. You could disassemble the lever and check. It's a minute job.

  93. #93
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    Thanks for the reply @accordnick.

    My lever is the Triggy lever. I don’t see any o-ring, not can it be diassembled.

  94. #94
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    It sounds like big friction in the cable. Can be dirty, rusty (?) or even broken. Try to check, clean it or replace.

  95. #95
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    That seems friction in the cable has mentioned, it could be dirt, or maybe the hose is kinked.

  96. #96
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    Quote Originally Posted by horriefic View Post
    Thanks for the reply @accordnick.

    My lever is the Triggy lever. I don’t see any o-ring, not can it be diassembled.
    Mine too. ) It can be easily disassembled. One bolt at the lever axle, 5mm Allen key. O-ring is between the lever and a base. Not visible from outside.

    Check the cable before, it also may be a cause.

  97. #97
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    Sacki,

    Your original post in this thread (from over a year ago) states "We are currently not planning on dropper posts with more than 185mm drop". Is this still correct? Like a lot tall riders I'm hoping that Bikeyoke are reconsidering this position.

    The 9point8 has reliability concerns, and the OneUp might not work on certain bikes. For me, and I'm sure for a number of other riders, a 200mm+ Revive would be the "no brainer" answer in this travel category.

    Thanks for any information you can provide.

  98. #98
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    220mm would be great

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  99. #99
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    OK

  100. #100
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    For the 30.9 and 31.6 diameters, we are currently not planning on any longer lenghts than 185. The reason is, that longer lenghts will come with several problems to solve, which we could not find a solution for, yet:

    1. Structurally (strength-wise), longer lenghts get much more critical.
    However, I think this is a manageable problem. Yet, for longevity, it would require longer bushing overlap, and compared to a 185mm, a 220 this would not just add twice the longer travel to the total lenght, which would be an additional of 2x (220-185) = 70mm. No, it would also require a bit more bushign overlap.
    485mm (current 185)
    + 70mm (for the extra 35mm travel)
    + 10~15mm (for the extra bushing overlap)
    --------------------------------------------------
    makes an estimated total length of 565~570 for a 220mm REVIVE.

    2. Structurally (stiffness-wise), longer lengths will cause more bend of the upper tube, which will make the upper tube be more prone to touch and scratch the inside of the lower tube. The reason is, that the load on the upper tube will cause the tube to bend not only on the exposed part, but also between the bushings inside the lower tube. There is only a very very little tiny gap between those two tubes and from #1 we know, that we will also need to increase the bushing overlap to increase strength. #1 and #2 are counter-productive.

    Especially #2 is a tough one, as there is is bascially no room the keep tubes clear at all times in series production, considering all insertion lengths, seat tubes angles and frame designs. I am really curious, how other 200mm+ droppers are holding up over time against my concerns.

    34.9 posts are a totally different story, and I am sure, we will see many more frame makers using this size in the future. That´s what I already predicted, before we came out with the REVIVE Max one and a half year ago. Major companies, that have not been doing 34.9 frames in the past approached us regarding cooperation.
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    Thank you very much for posting all this info, sacki! My Revive is due to arrive very soon and I am very excited to try it out.

  102. #102
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    Quote Originally Posted by BmoreKen View Post
    Hi!

    I’m moving a Revive from one bike to another, and will be swapping the lower tube unit from 30.9 o 31.6. I’ve watched the video and read the comments above.

    Before I get started I want to triple check — I do NOT need to remove air from the post. CORRECT?

    TIA
    Lower tube unit swap was easy. Hardest part was finding a thin wrench, ordered on Amazon. Thanks!

  103. #103
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    Quote Originally Posted by BmoreKen View Post
    Hi!

    I’m moving a Revive from one bike to another, and will be swapping the lower tube unit from 30.9 o 31.6. I’ve watched the video and read the comments above.

    Before I get started I want to triple check — I do NOT need to remove air from the post. CORRECT?

    TIA
    I'm looking at a new frame and will need to do the same but in reverse (31.6 -> 30.9). Is it just the tube I need to change? Or are there other parts required?

  104. #104
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    Just the tube with the pre-installed wiper and bushing.
    BikeYoke staff member - www.bikeyoke.com

  105. #105
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    My new Ibis Ripley 4 came with a bikeyoke dropper. It's awesome so far. I've been learning about it so I am prepared. I didn't get the air tool with the bike (brand new). Where can I get one? Should I have gotten one with the bike? Thanks!

    Quote Originally Posted by sacki View Post
    Just a quick not on the comment above.
    You don´t have to take the reset lever apart to access the valve.
    Only if you´ve lost your air adapter, you CAN disassemble the reset axle to access the valve without the air adapter and the shock pump directly.
    I tried to make it as clear as possible in the manual, and I am sorry, if it is confusing. Here is a copy of the mentioned manual page, where I highlighted the bold "OR" with yellow marker:
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	pump.PNG 
Views:	937 
Size:	111.0 KB 
ID:	1223632

    Glad to hear, the post works fine, again.

  106. #106
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    We do deliver our post to all of our OEM customer with the air adapter. I am not sure, if they give it away with the complete bike, though. We do not dictate this.
    It´d be a waste to throw it away, tho, as it is a really expensive piece of CNC work.
    Maybe you can check with your IBIS dealer?
    If you can´t get it, you can buy it directly in our webshop under seatpost spares.
    BikeYoke staff member - www.bikeyoke.com

  107. #107
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    Thank you sacki. I will check in with the shop where I bought the bike. And, I don't plan on throwing away the post, that's for sure. That's the opposite of my core approach for anything.

  108. #108
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    Lol! Nono, I was referring to the air adapter!
    I meant it'd would be a shame, if they threw away the air adapter, instead of giving it with the complete bike. Maybe they give it to their dealers, or they just forgot to put it in the bike package.
    If you threw away the post just because of a missing air tool, that´d be really disturbing. ;-)
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  109. #109
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    Girthy....stoked....installing now
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  110. #110
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    Quote Originally Posted by sacki View Post
    Lol! Nono, I was referring to the air adapter!
    I meant it'd would be a shame, if they threw away the air adapter, instead of giving it with the complete bike. Maybe they give it to their dealers, or they just forgot to put it in the bike package.
    If you threw away the post just because of a missing air tool, that´d be really disturbing. ;-)
    Haha. Got it. I like the dropper!

  111. #111
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    Blown away. Ease of installation, smoothness, quality, holy crap. So happy to have an actual 34.9mm post in the frame designed for it, looks so much better and action is at least 150% better than the POS Trans-X dropper that came on it with a shin down to 30.9. No wiggle at the head, no flex I can feel, wow just wow. So glad I spent the extra $100 and got this one.

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  112. #112
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    Sacki - are there instructions somewhere for doing a lower service on the Divine? Not seeing on the website. Mine is a bit sticky going down so figure just needs a clean and lube. Thanks!

  113. #113
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    I´ve already sent you PM. We are preparing a video for the DIVINE SL lower tube service right now, but I´ve sent you a link to a quick 'n' dirty made video for the meantime.

    Cheers
    Sacki
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  114. #114
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    I just got a 185mm Revive and attempting to do the install. The housing that came with the seatpost is way too short for my Santa Cruz Hightower LT XXL. When my bars are at 90deg and housing runs through frame, it does not extend beyond the end of the seat tube. The housing included is 5ft in length. My bike probably needs at least 6ft length. What is the recommended housing alternative? I assume this needs 5mm housing so something like Shimano SP51 shift housing would work?

  115. #115
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    Quote Originally Posted by sacki View Post
    I´ve already sent you PM. We are preparing a video for the DIVINE SL lower tube service right now, but I´ve sent you a link to a quick 'n' dirty made video for the meantime.

    Cheers
    Sacki
    Got it, thanks Sacki! Looks super simple.

  116. #116
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    Update

    Quote Originally Posted by climbanymtn View Post
    I just got a 185mm Revive and attempting to do the install. The housing that came with the seatpost is way too short for my Santa Cruz Hightower LT XXL. When my bars are at 90deg and housing runs through frame, it does not extend beyond the end of the seat tube. The housing included is 5ft in length. My bike probably needs at least 6ft length. What is the recommended housing alternative? I assume this needs 5mm housing so something like Shimano SP51 shift housing would work?
    Just an update, I was able to successfully install the seatpost without needing to replace the housing. Turns out that with the seatpost installed in the seat tube, I had plenty of extra housing length remaining due to the depth of insertion. I am still curious what the housing spec is though as I will probably replace with Shimano housing at some point during a maintenance interval.

  117. #117
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    I installed mine with Shimano OT-SP41 housing and Shimano Optislick Shifter Cable, but most probably you will be fine with any combination of a housing and a 1.2mm shifter steel cable.

  118. #118
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    I broke the end of the little revive key inside the thingy. Any tips n how to remove?






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  119. #119
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    Quote Originally Posted by BmoreKen View Post
    I broke the end of the little revive key inside the thingy. Any tips n how to remove?






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    You can see about 1mm nubbin is gone





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  120. #120
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    Dental picks wiggling it back and forth. Or I’d try to epoxy glue the broke end on and pull it out.

    Lastly I’d try drilling a small hole in the middle of the nub and then thread a screw in to it.

    Thanks for sharing this issue. Love my revive but I’ll be using a normal Allen from now on.


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  121. #121
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    That same part broke on mine, you should be able to just lean the bike over on it's side and it should fall out. Maybe give the side of the seat a few whacks. If not, you can drill it out with a 1/16 drill bit and just thread machine screw into it lightly to pull it out.

  122. #122
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    How often do people have to use the revive feature on theirs? I'm finding that I have to do that to mine every few riding hours, maybe 2-3.

  123. #123
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    Been on mine close to 6 months and only had to use it once so far

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  124. #124
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    Quote Originally Posted by minimusprime View Post
    How often do people have to use the revive feature on theirs? I'm finding that I have to do that to mine every few riding hours, maybe 2-3.
    It is only necessary if I turn my bicycle upside down for any length of time or transport it on it's side in a vehicle. I have the older versions without the membrane that supposedly prevents this. Otherwise, it stays and doesn't sag while riding. If it's actually sagging while riding, you definitely have a problem.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

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  125. #125
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    Quote Originally Posted by minimusprime View Post
    How often do people have to use the revive feature on theirs? I'm finding that I have to do that to mine every few riding hours, maybe 2-3.
    I've been using the seatpost for over a year, and I've never had to revive it, even if I put my bike upside down (with the post fully extended, of course).

  126. #126
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    Hello guys,
    I purchased a used Revive on Pinkbike and got to installing it last night. It works well but there is a hiccup which I'm not sure if it's normal. The problem I'm having is that the post does not drop if I sit too far back on the saddle. Basically if there is some backwards force on the post, it won't drop. Therefore I need to slide my ass slightly forward such that the downwards pressure is directly over the extension shaft. I find this slightly annoying and was wondering if it's normal or how it can be fixed. I purchased this post mainly to be able to rebuild it myself but hopefully it's not my next step!

    Thanks!
    Beware the hucking bear!

  127. #127
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    Moving down the line of the post rather than vertically down is best practice for all dropper posts.

  128. #128
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    Yeah sure it puts less stress but I don't remember ever seeing one that doesn't move at all when you are simply seated on the saddle...

  129. #129
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    It's possible that the bushing and/or the lower bushing to be worn out, try to wiggle the seatpost and check for excessive play.
    Or it could be just in need of a lower service, thing that you should have done the moment you got it just to check it's condition .

  130. #130
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    It doesn't wiggle at all and I didn't have time and/or parts for a rebuild right now. I didn't expect that to be honest and couldn't detect it before having it all installed. Is this a common "problem"?

  131. #131
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    You don't need new parts if it doesn't have play, just disassemble the lower and do a service, probably just need new grease.
    You have links for the vids on how to do a lower service in the first post of this thread, don't know if sacky already updated the vid, but you don't even need to remove the air on the new procedure.

  132. #132
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    Thanks Aglo! I understand from your answers that it’s not uncommon. I have a trip this weekend but I’ll take the time to overhaul it when I get back.

  133. #133
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    Actually, you're the first I recall having the seatpost not budging at full extension .
    But I may be vitamin B12 deficient, so don't take my word for it. I suggested doing a lower service because last year doing 4 to 5 rides per week during the summer I noticed some stiction at full extension if I hadn't lowered the seatpost for some time during a ride, doing a lower service resolved the small amount of stiction I had.
    You could also clean/wash the stanchion and apply a very small dab of r.s.p. Slick Kick or Slick Honey with your finger and see if it helps.
    But I think you doing a lower service is the best option because you don't know when the previous owner did it and it may just be in need of one.

  134. #134
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    Does anyone know if the Revive is compatible with the new XTR dropper lever? I'd like to clean-up my bars a bit. I can't tell if the lever can accept a cable head, and if it has enough cable pull.
    Thanks!

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    Hi there i was reading one of the earlier posts from you about revive 125/160 and no spacers to limit travel. Is this still true? Is the 125 the max insertion then 160 is the travel? I could of sworn i saw spacers that could convert 160 to 125. Thanks.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Spiltover06 View Post
    Hi there i was reading one of the earlier posts from you about revive 125/160 and no spacers to limit travel. Is this still true? Is the 125 the max insertion then 160 is the travel? I could of sworn i saw spacers that could convert 160 to 125. Thanks.
    Someone with their whole portfolio on the internet said they could limit the posts travel to any length they wanted but Sacki advised very much against it.

  137. #137
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    Ok thanks can you explain what the 125 and 160 numbers actually mean?

  138. #138
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spiltover06 View Post
    ... Is the 125 the max insertion then 160 is the travel?... Thanks.
    Sorry, but I really do not understand what you are saying.
    About the spacers: We do not have spacers to reduce the travel.
    I know there are customers, who did their own spacers it, and I have not yet heard about any issues. It is just that we don't offer spacers and this is why, you should know, what you are doing, as your warranty will be void, if you mess around with modifications.
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  139. #139
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    Ok I think I found my error. The bike states 125/160 which depends on bike size.
    RE:
    BIKEYOKE REVIVE 125/160MM
    My interpretation was the post is adjustable 160 to 125 mm.
    Thanks for the response.

  140. #140
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    I have run into a compatibility issue with the 185mm Revive on a Santa Cruz Hightower LT in XXL size. When adjusting the saddle to the desired angle, there is absolutely no way to avoid the rear clamp bolt from rubbing against the saddle clamp. I read Sacki's install notes on this thread about pushing the clamp backward while tightening the bolts evenly, but that did not overcome the issue in my case. Perhaps due to my height (6'5" and 36" inseam) I need to have the post pretty high for pedaling, thus requiring a steeper seat angle than the post was designed for.

    In comparing the Revive to a Fox Transfer on my other Santa Cruz bike and the Reverb I was replacing on my HTLT, it appears the Revive design does not account for slack bikes and the taller rider/frame combo, as these other posts have plenty of clearance between the rear saddle bolt and the seatpost/saddle clamp area.

    I am disappointed as I really wanted to use the Revive due to the self-bleed feature. I'm hoping Sacki sees this and has another solution.

  141. #141
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    Quote Originally Posted by climbanymtn View Post
    I have run into a compatibility issue with the 185mm Revive on a Santa Cruz Hightower LT in XXL size. When adjusting the saddle to the desired angle, there is absolutely no way to avoid the rear clamp bolt from rubbing against the saddle clamp. I read Sacki's install notes on this thread about pushing the clamp backward while tightening the bolts evenly, but that did not overcome the issue in my case. Perhaps due to my height (6'5" and 36" inseam) I need to have the post pretty high for pedaling, thus requiring a steeper seat angle than the post was designed for.

    In comparing the Revive to a Fox Transfer on my other Santa Cruz bike and the Reverb I was replacing on my HTLT, it appears the Revive design does not account for slack bikes and the taller rider/frame combo, as these other posts have plenty of clearance between the rear saddle bolt and the seatpost/saddle clamp area.

    I am disappointed as I really wanted to use the Revive due to the self-bleed feature. I'm hoping Sacki sees this and has another solution.
    Posting a photo might help us understand this better


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  142. #142
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    I've removed the saddle, but this is where the contact is occurring (red marks on exploded view). I did one ride with the post and had no idea the bolt was in contact with the clamp, but I heard a lot of creaking. Upon close inspection, I saw there was a divot etched into the lower clamp from where the bolt had been rubbing. I then tried to reposition the bolt and clamp per Sacki's notes to see if could get the bolt to not rub against the clamp, but I couldn't get it to work.
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  143. #143
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    so what's a problem?
    Remove some amoun of clamp with rasp and live on.
    OK

  144. #144
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    Hi Sacki,

    I'm a very satisfied BikeYoke Revive owner (160/31.6) of 9 months. My LBS has performed the 100 hour service on schedule.

    I'm currently experiencing some rotational play in the inner tube, where the saddle swivels a couple of degrees even though there is no sag or compression. Reviving has no effect.

    I was wondering if you can tell from this description whether another 100 hour service would eliminate the rotation or if it requires something more extensive. (I don't see this issue covered in the troubleshooting table so I'm guessing it's not very common.) My hope is to purchase whatever replacement components I need before I take the post to my mechanic in order to minimize turnaround time.

    Please let me know if you need any more info. Thanks!

  145. #145
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    If I’m getting a little greasy residue at the top of my post does it mean my Revive is due for a service?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Nat View Post
    If I’m getting a little greasy residue at the top of my post does it mean my Revive is due for a service?
    I sure hope not, because I have had mine for 2 weeks and I have to wipe the residue off under the seat before every ride!!
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  147. #147
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    Quote Originally Posted by timmyt43 View Post
    Hi Sacki,

    I'm a very satisfied BikeYoke Revive owner (160/31.6) of 9 months. My LBS has performed the 100 hour service on schedule.

    I'm currently experiencing some rotational play in the inner tube, where the saddle swivels a couple of degrees even though there is no sag or compression. Reviving has no effect.

    I was wondering if you can tell from this description whether another 100 hour service would eliminate the rotation or if it requires something more extensive. (I don't see this issue covered in the troubleshooting table so I'm guessing it's not very common.) My hope is to purchase whatever replacement components I need before I take the post to my mechanic in order to minimize turnaround time.

    Please let me know if you need any more info. Thanks!
    As with ALL dropper posts, it will develop a little play, the bushings are brass and are intended to wear. How much? Maybe Sacki will give a description, to me, it's more of a feel thing. The first thing to do would be to use new bushings. Bikeyoke also makes some slightly oversized bushings in the case of the rails wearing down a bit.
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  148. #148
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    Quote Originally Posted by euro-trash View Post
    Does anyone know if the Revive is compatible with the new XTR dropper lever? I'd like to clean-up my bars a bit. I can't tell if the lever can accept a cable head, and if it has enough cable pull.
    Thanks!
    It does work with the REVIVE, but you might have to be careful with cable tension and air pressure. We´ve had a magazine testing a post with this remote and the maximum speed was slightly smaller than with the original remote.
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  149. #149
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    Quote Originally Posted by PissedOffCil View Post
    It doesn't wiggle at all and I didn't have time and/or parts for a rebuild right now. I didn't expect that to be honest and couldn't detect it before having it all installed. Is this a common "problem"?
    Not a "common" problem and I suggest to have a lower tube service performend.
    HOWEVER: Even though the post should drop with the force not going in-line with the seattube, you should not just sit plain on the back of your saddle and push down. Always push in-line with the seattube and push as centered on the saddle, as you can. It does not require any additional time, neither is it unconfortable. It is just that you need to get used to it. Your post will thank you with less wear. This applies to any dropper post of any make.
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  150. #150
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    Quote Originally Posted by timmyt43 View Post
    Hi Sacki,

    I'm a very satisfied BikeYoke Revive owner (160/31.6) of 9 months. My LBS has performed the 100 hour service on schedule.

    I'm currently experiencing some rotational play in the inner tube, where the saddle swivels a couple of degrees even though there is no sag or compression. Reviving has no effect.

    I was wondering if you can tell from this description whether another 100 hour service would eliminate the rotation or if it requires something more extensive. (I don't see this issue covered in the troubleshooting table so I'm guessing it's not very common.) My hope is to purchase whatever replacement components I need before I take the post to my mechanic in order to minimize turnaround time.

    Please let me know if you need any more info. Thanks!
    If the post has rotational play, it may be time to replace the pins, which guide the upper tube.
    Another option is: Exchanging the pins in their seats. Means, keeping the original pins but randomly putting them in a different slot. This can also reduce rotational play.
    P.S.: We do not use different pin sizes. We have a different way of reducing play.
    BikeYoke staff member - www.bikeyoke.com

  151. #151
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    Quote Originally Posted by blaklabl View Post
    I sure hope not, because I have had mine for 2 weeks and I have to wipe the residue off under the seat before every ride!!
    It is very likely just excess grease from assembly, whihc exits through the wiper. It should go away after a few more rides. In case the post should not work as expected anymore, then please get in touch with me/us though e-mail.
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  152. #152
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    Quote Originally Posted by sacki View Post
    P.S.: We do not use different pin sizes. We have a different way of reducing play.
    ... who did lower tube service himself, couldn't unnoticed that.

  153. #153
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    Quote Originally Posted by sacki View Post
    It is very likely just excess grease from assembly, whihc exits through the wiper. It should go away after a few more rides. In case the post should not work as expected anymore, then please get in touch with me/us though e-mail.
    My post is upwards of a year old and I didn’t notice any grease accumulation until just recently. It still functions as well as it has since day one though. What do you think? Is the wiper worn out maybe?

  154. #154
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    Could be. It is hard to say without having the post in my hands. However, if it is only grease. I would not worry.
    This can come from a fresh service or from production when a little too much grease was used.
    If you didn´t do a service recently and the post just starts "greasing" now, then it might be due to a worn wiper or worn bushings. A front/back wiggling post does not seal as well on the wiper area, as a tighter one), as the stanchion can move relatively to the wiper.
    The wipers usually seal very well from outside to inside, but they allow a little lubrication toget out to keep the stanchion lubed.
    Warm weather also lets grease "melt" and liquifies it so it can exit through the wiper more easily.
    You can check with a lower tube service, if the wiper allowed too much dirt to get in the post. If there is no extrardinary amount of dirt in the post, then the wiper still seems to work properly and keep dirt outside.
    BikeYoke staff member - www.bikeyoke.com

  155. #155
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    Thank you very much sacki.

  156. #156
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    Quote Originally Posted by sacki View Post
    It is very likely just excess grease from assembly, whihc exits through the wiper. It should go away after a few more rides. In case the post should not work as expected anymore, then please get in touch with me/us though e-mail.
    No worries! Best, most solid, smoothest post I have ever used. I love it. Thanks for making it in 34.9
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  157. #157
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    I'm going to do a lower service on my revive - I purchased a v2 service kit (my dust wiper has the spring)...but also in the kit is a grey bushing of some sort, it's like a cup to some extent where it's flat on one side with a smaller (like the size of your pinkie finger) hole in it and then the other side is wide open and deep maybe 1/4" deep.

    Where does this go as I don't see it in the exploded diagrams on bikeyoke.de. Its a Revive 160.

  158. #158
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    Quote Originally Posted by jbsmith View Post
    I'm going to do a lower service on my revive - I purchased a v2 service kit (my dust wiper has the spring)...but also in the kit is a grey bushing of some sort, it's like a cup to some extent where it's flat on one side with a smaller (like the size of your pinkie finger) hole in it and then the other side is wide open and deep maybe 1/4" deep.

    Where does this go as I don't see it in the exploded diagrams on bikeyoke.de. Its a Revive 160.

    Found it #57 on the diagram...just looks different in the diagram than in real life.

  159. #159
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    Seems like my remote doesnt work properly if i have the seatpost clamped in a specific position. It wont return, so i cant put any weight on the seat if i have pushed the remote. If i just move the seatpost a centimeter it works fine.


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  160. #160
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    Being an idiot I allowed alot of oil out of the post by not putting the aircap back onto the valve and then actuating the revive function.

    I have seen that to refill it indeed to let all the air out (slowly, using a shock pump) and put some oil back in.

    Can I mix another type of oil with the one that's in there from the factory? Can I use reverb hydraulic fluid? (It's all I've got)

    If not, what could I use? I've seen hydraulic oil on sale but only in 5ltr format and I obviously don't need that much. Where could get hold of a few ml? Motorbike garages?

    Thanks

  161. #161
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    Installed one today and everything works great. Except the 4mm lever they include broke off in the post the first time I tried to use it. I think a steel allen wrench is a safer bet.

  162. #162
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    The little 4mm lever is soft metal rotating against a stiff spring. I started to bend my lever too, but realized it in time, and figured out my problem was it wasn't inserted all the way. There's a rubber ring which retains the lever, and I had to give it a hard wack to get it to seat. After that it's been strong enough.

  163. #163
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    You can basically use any suspension oil, but it may result in different speeds and or ease in reset function. It is also normally OK to mix different suspension oils, if you just want to fill up lost oil.
    BikeYoke staff member - www.bikeyoke.com

  164. #164
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    nsd20463 is right. We have seen quite a couple of reset lever shear of at the tip, on the o-ring groove. This happens, if you don´t insert the key all the way, which you should.
    We have only seen less than a handful of levers shear off at the root of the hex key, because the material is pretty strong, actually. It might have happened when customers engaged the reset function, while the post was in temperature-lock mode (too much pressure inside the inner chamber due to temperature difference). In this case you should use a 4mm L-key to engage the reset function for once.
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  165. #165
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    probably know the answer to this, but throwing it out. Any way to reduce the total height of the Revive? I have a 31.6 125mm post and just bought a new bike. it's about 5mm too high for me with post bottomed out. The seat is already a low rail seat and hoping there is a solution better than tying a string around it to keep it from fully extending.
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  166. #166
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    Just bought a new set of XTR m9120 brakes, which uses the new iSpec EV clamp. Is there a solution at the moment to attach a Triggy to it?

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    maybe they will make something in near future https://problemsolversbike.com/produ...smatch_-_30797
    OK

  168. #168
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    Quote Originally Posted by Verbl Kint View Post
    Just bought a new set of XTR m9120 brakes, which uses the new iSpec EV clamp. Is there a solution at the moment to attach a Triggy to it?

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    Not that I'm aware of, BikeYoke may be working on one. I have the WolfTooth iSpec EV adapter for my Wolftooth lever I am using with my Revive, it might be adaptable with the wider adjustment range of EV, but then it may be more trouble and risk than it's worth, too.

  169. #169
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark16q View Post
    probably know the answer to this, but throwing it out. Any way to reduce the total height of the Revive? I have a 31.6 125mm post and just bought a new bike. it's about 5mm too high for me with post bottomed out. The seat is already a low rail seat and hoping there is a solution better than tying a string around it to keep it from fully extending.
    In theory, yes, if you are handy and don't mind taking it apart. Peter Verdone mentions it in this post on his blog. I originally bought mine for a very tight fitment that never ended up happening and it fits great on the bike it ended up on, but I had that in mind as a backup plan if I needed a few mm.

  170. #170
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    Thank you Velodonata,

    I haven't cracked mine open yet, so not sure exactly of where he's referring to on putting the spacer and exactly how it would stay in place when the post is dropped. Might make more sense once in there. It would be great if bikeyoke sold spacing shims like oneup does. hint hint....


    Quote Originally Posted by Velodonata View Post
    In theory, yes, if you are handy and don't mind taking it apart. Peter Verdone mentions it in this post on his blog. I originally bought mine for a very tight fitment that never ended up happening and it fits great on the bike it ended up on, but I had that in mind as a backup plan if I needed a few mm.
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  171. #171
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark16q View Post
    Thank you Velodonata,

    I haven't cracked mine open yet, so not sure exactly of where he's referring to on putting the spacer and exactly how it would stay in place when the post is dropped. Might make more sense once in there. It would be great if bikeyoke sold spacing shims like oneup does. hint hint....
    I haven't needed to get inside mine yet either. From looking at the service and promotional videos, it would simply be a simple spacer tube of the correct dimensions, over one of the internal tubes to shorten range of motion. It actually appears to be a very simple mod, other than having to take it all the way down to put it in there. But for a tricky fit, I would totally do it, the post is worth the extra time and effort.

  172. #172
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    My beloved Revive finally started doing what all droppers do: misbehave.

    Early in a 4 hour ride yesterday, the return speed began to slow. I stopped and did a "revive", hoping that would resolve the issue. But the behavior persisted and worsened. Within an hour, the remote wouldn't do anything: wouldn't allow the post to drop if extended, and wouldn't extend the post if dropped. The symptoms suggested that the cable tension on the remote may be at fault, so I tightened it up a bit w/ the barrel adjuster to see if that helped, but it did nothing. When I got back to my van, I inspected the remote, cable, actuation linkage at bottom of post, etc. Summary:

    1) when extended, the post isn't soft; its firm at full extension.
    2) "revive" bolt still works to drop or raise the post, no problem.
    3) actuation mechanism is clean and greased and appears to be moving freely/normally; however, moving it has no consequence (won't allow the upper to drop or extend).
    4) problem has nothing to do with the remote, or cable tension, or clamp torque because I am reproducing the problem with the post removed from frame and directly/manually moving the actuation linkage.

    Basically, the post is "stuck up" if I do a revive/reset and allow the post to extend. Or it is "stuck down" if I do a revive/reset and push the stanchion down into the lower tube.

    I'm currently travelling without proper tools, so can't check the foam ring because I can't remove the circlip. But the bottom of my post is very clean; it literally looks new, and shows no sign of grease or dirt or even moisture. The three vent holes are clean and exposed. So I'm a little skeptical that a simple cleaning of the foam ring will resolve this severe problem.

    Suggestions?

  173. #173
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    Quote Originally Posted by InertiaMan View Post
    My beloved Revive finally started doing what all droppers do: misbehave.
    Curious, how old and how long since last service?
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

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  174. #174
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    Where are you traveling? State/town?

  175. #175
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    I noticed my revive didnt want to extend fully once in a while and checked the pressure. Its 5 months old and only had 150 psi now. Pumped it back up to 250 psi and it works great again... but for how long? Anyone else experience leaks so soon?

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  176. #176
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    Quote Originally Posted by mykle View Post
    I noticed my revive didnt want to extend fully once in a while and checked the pressure. Its 5 months old and only had 150 psi now. Pumped it back up to 250 psi and it works great again... but for how long? Anyone else experience leaks so soon?

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    No. I notice that my 160 returns slower than my 125, both reading 200psi. I've always meant to add a few PSI to the 160, but it has always worked and is super smooth, so I never get around to it. I ride these hard and they've withstood several seasons. This last winter, I rebuilt both (service) and they are doing excellent. No hesitation taking them on nasty muddy wet 40-50 mile rides or the 100 miler I'll do this month. I know this doesn't help you, but these have held pressure for years just fine. I do not believe there is any widespread issue with holding air.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

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  177. #177
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jayem View Post
    Curious, how old and how long since last service?
    I have about a year of riding on it. Added a service kit to recent order from bike-components.de but haven't done it yet. FWIW, I don't see how the periodic service of the main wiper and keys would have any affect on my issue. The problem I'm facing is with the hydraulics/inner tube, not with the "outer" mechanical interface between stanchion and lower tube.

  178. #178
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    Quote Originally Posted by hoolie View Post
    Where are you traveling? State/town?
    Central Oregon.

  179. #179
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    I sent my post in for service at Dirtlabs after a quick conversation with them confirmed this isn't a problem I can easily solve on the road. If I was at home w/ normal set of tools, I'd be happy to undertake a full disassembly and rebuild with new seals, but the seal kit seems pretty much unavailable in the USA.

    My problem appears to be a stuck-down lockout valve. The actuator rod is moving fine against the cam at the bottom of post, but the valve isn't opening. Which raises the obvious question of how the lockout valve could be closed and still allow the rod to move?? Conceptually I suppose it could also be stuck open and completely plugged?? Don't know how that would occur, but it would explain the still-moving actuator rod.

  180. #180
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    Quote Originally Posted by Velodonata View Post
    I haven't needed to get inside mine yet either. From looking at the service and promotional videos, it would simply be a simple spacer tube of the correct dimensions, over one of the internal tubes to shorten range of motion. It actually appears to be a very simple mod, other than having to take it all the way down to put it in there. But for a tricky fit, I would totally do it, the post is worth the extra time and effort.
    Turns out post is a bit too tall on my new orbea, but finding a 10.75 od 8.05 Id washer is no simple task . It’s a small id for a 10mm washer. Any sources known? Tia mark
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  181. #181
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark16q View Post
    Turns out post is a bit too tall on my new orbea, but finding a 10.75 od 8.05 Id washer is no simple task . It’s a small id for a 10mm washer. Any sources known? Tia mark
    How much do you need to drop it? I would rather use a tube than washers. There is usually a lot of scrap cuts of tubing available on eBay in various metals for cheap, I would probably go with aluminum or Ti. Just search for 10mm OD, it's a relatively common size and in 1mm wall that makes for pretty close to what you need. You may need to fine tune the size, assuming you don't have a lathe just chucking the tube into a drill and using a Dremel or even some sandpaper wrapped on a stick you could open up the ID a bit if needed. I don't think the OD would be critical as long as it wasn't too big, but I haven't had my Revive apart yet to get a feel for the best approach. You could always put slightly bigger OD washers at the ends if it seems like it needs the support.

  182. #182
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    Actually was looking for spacers or tubing don’t know why I said washers. But good points about slightly smaller od being ok. Was hoping for nylon but think al or ti would be fine too. Hate to open it up without spacer in hand but think it'll take some finessing once apart.
    Quote Originally Posted by Velodonata View Post
    How much do you need to drop it? I would rather use a tube than washers. There is usually a lot of scrap cuts of tubing available on eBay in various metals for cheap, I would probably go with aluminum or Ti. Just search for 10mm OD, it's a relatively common size and in 1mm wall that makes for pretty close to what you need. You may need to fine tune the size, assuming you don't have a lathe just chucking the tube into a drill and using a Dremel or even some sandpaper wrapped on a stick you could open up the ID a bit if needed. I don't think the OD would be critical as long as it wasn't too big, but I haven't had my Revive apart yet to get a feel for the best approach. You could always put slightly bigger OD washers at the ends if it seems like it needs the support.
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  183. #183
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark16q View Post
    Actually was looking for spacers or tubing don’t know why I said washers. But good points about slightly smaller od being ok. Was hoping for nylon but think al or ti would be fine too. Hate to open it up without spacer in hand but think it'll take some finessing once apart.
    I thought about nylon or delrin too, but I'm not sure it would hold up. Using it for washers on the ends might be nice to isolate the metal spacer from thumping on the internals at top-out. Or a slight inside bevel and an O-ring at each end.

  184. #184
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    I have Revive 160 for two weeks and i notice there is some rotational play (im not sure if there was some play before). Not between upper and lower tube, but between upper tube and saddle clamp. I mark it on picture here: https://imgur.com/a/czKZMAq
    Is it normal?

  185. #185
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    That is not normal and this should not come loose. The head is threaded, and glued with not reversible glue into the stanchion. However, impacts or crashed can break this bond.
    If no crash or hard impact or load was invloved, this should not come loose.
    Please get in touch with me by e-mail, so we cna get this sorted.

    Some notes on this:
    We do recommend to tighten the seatpost only to the extent, that it can rotate inside the seattube under high loads. Just as you do with brake levers and shift levers on your handlebars. This helps avoid overloads and allows the post to rotate in critical situations.

    One thing you should never do with a dropper post (of any make), but probably all of us have done it before:
    Once in a while your post may rotate inside the seattube (during wheelie or after hitting the saddle with your leg in a DH section). NEVER reposition your saddle to straight forward postion by tapping it on the side step by step. This is doing your post not any good.
    Always release the seattube collar, readjust and then retighten the collar.
    BikeYoke staff member - www.bikeyoke.com

  186. #186
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    @sarlej: You´ve also just sent me an e-mail about your problem, but you mentioned this:

    "... but the play is small and it's hard to record because i moves, bike moves, camera moves and you don't see anything unusual on video."

    I was thinking, that you really meant, that the head was loose and it can be turned left and right by pushing the saddle.
    Now you were talking about little play, that you can not really see or demonstrate on video.
    To be really honest, we´ve never had a single case, where there was "play" between upper tube and head. This is a threaded connection. So there can not really be "play".
    Either the head is loose and you can bascially unscrew it further, but there can not be "play", where it wiggles left and right.
    Or there is play between lower tube and upper tube, which is usually caused by worn pins. Most of the time, however, this play is absolutely normal (no post has zero play). Some posts are a little bit more tight, with very little rotatnional play and some are a little bit more loose.

    I just write here, so everyone can follow up on this, that we really have to speak the same language, to know, what exactly the issue is. I am just confused about the term "rotational play" in this area.
    BikeYoke staff member - www.bikeyoke.com

  187. #187
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    OK, Here we go again:
    The play, Sarlej was referring to, was just the rotational play, which every post has (more or less) has - and also needs - to move smoothly.
    Here is a quick video of the play, he was referring to:
    https://peertube.video/videos/watch/...b-ed211dafdea9
    This play in the video is actually pretty small, and is nothing to worry about. The play may increase slightly over time, and can be reduced again by exchanging the pins (when worn). Sometimes it can already help to just switch the pin positions. Means: installing the existing pins in other slots during a lower tube service.
    To be fair, this is his first dropper post, hence his question.
    BikeYoke staff member - www.bikeyoke.com

  188. #188
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    Caution;  Merge;  Workers Ahead!

    Hey, BikeYoke, make dream comes true! ) You are an innovative and creative company (I mean realy, not like others who has only marketing BS), so I know you CAN! ))


    Dropper lever:
    1. lever must change its length (yes, you already has it in Triggy X)
    2. lever must has a movement left-right (you have two holes but it's better to not disassemble lever from clamp/brake lever but just to unscrew a bolt a little bit and move the lever)
    3. lever must rotate up/down (like TansX/Brand-X - https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/.../rp-prod176215 - see last photo 10 degrees)
    4. lever must has and adjuster to push it futher (like PNW Loam - https://www.pnwcomponents.com/collec...12731382825037 - https://youtu.be/psx3Br8OQf0?t=282 4:41 )
    5. lever must has all compatibilities (not only new I-Spec EV but also I-Spec B and ALL others for any brake manufacturers)
    6. bearing (like in WolfTooth or ZTTO)


    I don't meant to take their ideas, but anyhow - a dropper lever with all such-kind possibilities.

    In some video you said that you decided to make your own dropper cause you couldn't find any that would be perfect, in each you found some bugs or troubles or ... So, you created great Rvive! Now, create great lever!
    )))
    OK

  189. #189
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    Quote Originally Posted by sacki View Post
    Once in a while your post may rotate inside the seattube (during wheelie or after hitting the saddle with your leg in a DH section). NEVER reposition your saddle to straight forward postion by tapping it on the side step by step. This is doing your post not any good.
    Sure, but what do you think the chances are of a rider not doing that in a race when they crash and it rotates?
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

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  190. #190
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    TLDR: Like my BY 160, but need slightly less travel w/o having to buy a new post/brand to get the right fit.

    So, I've been enjoying my BikeYoke 160 for about a year now. Used the Revive switch a few times to remove a little squish off the top. I regularly flip my bike up side down to do maint, so I expect it to some extent, that is why I chose a BY Revive.

    My biggest issue is, 160mm is ~10mm too much travel for my use-case. I'd like to get this fitment sorted so I have less soreness related to the issue.

    My options are:
    1-Spacers in current post (probably makes the most sense, easiest, cheapish?).
    2-A shorter post (which would likely be a 150 from a diff manuf, one that I can utilize limiting spacers on, which I'd rather not do due to cost, and I like my BY...).
    3-Cut the frame/seatpost ~10mm (I actually measured it, and I could cut 8-12mm and still use my current clamp, but I'd really rather not have to cut my frame, and on top of that, unsure weather I can even insert the post another 10mm w/o hitting things inside the lowers of the seattube itself, this would basically be a 'free' mod however).

    I've seen some of the talk about spacers, and not being officially supported, and not being warrantied, etc. Thats OK I guess, I bought this post with intent to do my own maint/repairs as needed. But, what I'm wondering is, if anyone has a simple and easy to buy 'kit' yet? Not looking to tear down my post and have to custom machine some part and hope it fits right and doesn't cause further wear on internals.

    I'd really like to have an option from BY at this point. By looking through this thread, they know its of interest to many of their customers..and almost a requirement for an 'in between' option for 125 to 160mm.. 125 is just too short, 140-150mm would prob be perfect for me/my bike.

    One other thing I'd like considered is an 'offset' mount option, so I can set-back the saddle slightly more. Esp. for these 'steep sta' frames that are becoming so popular. My saddle is setback as far as I'm comfortable going (beyond the max limit) currently..

    If anyone has suggestion on where I can get a ready to install 'spacer' setup, I'd welcome it. Also, any pics of the end result, or before-after? I'm assuming it has something to do with?: http://www.peterverdone.com/wp-conte...2/PVD_0642.jpg as hinted at by Revive! | Peter Verdone Designs
    '18 Guerilla Gravity Smash 140/150 29"
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  191. #191
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    @ka81ua: Thanks for your kind words and your trust in our expertise. We´ll see, what we can do in te future. Yet, let me go into detail about some of those points below:

    2. lever must has a movement left-right (you have two holes but it's better to not disassemble lever from clamp/brake lever but just to unscrew a bolt a little bit and move the lever)
    ->When using our I-Spec adapters, you can already move them slightly left and right on the adapter themselves without taking off the remote.


    3. lever must rotate up/down (like TansX/Brand-X - https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/.../rp-prod176215 - see last photo 10 degrees)
    -> This is something I don´t think is really neccessary. It would require a complex joint, that would make the remote heavy and bulky. Also it would make the remote itself incompatible with I-Spec and Matchmaker adapters.

    4. lever must has and adjuster to push it futher (like PNW Loam - https://www.pnwcomponents.com/collec...12731382825037 - https://youtu.be/psx3Br8OQf0?t=282 4:41 )
    -> Good idea, which we've already been thinking about and tested of in the past (we´ve used a design similar to a limiter screw on snap ring pliers). Not sure, if we´ll really use it series production, though, as some customers are already overwhelmed wit a barrel adjuster. You know, we have to keep things as simple as possible, so every customer understands, how to install a post. More adjustability also means more issues and questions, which are not a problem of the product itself, but a matter of handling. It is really astonishing, how many questions we need to answer, which we didn´t think if we would ever need to answer. If we can avoid simple questions, we´d like to do so.

    5. lever must has all compatibilities (not only new I-Spec EV but also I-Spec B and ALL others for any brake manufacturers).
    -> We already have Matchmaker (SRAM, TRP, Trickstuff), Mixmaster (Formula), Shiftmixer (Magura), Hope Shiftermount, Shimano I-Spec B, I-Spec II compatibility. Besides the new Shimano I-Spec EV (which we are already working on), I am not sure, which other compatibility one could ask for.

    6. bearing (like in WolfTooth or ZTTO)
    that is a nice feature, but it will also increase the size and weight of the remote. Oue Triggy remote takes a few rides to bed-in, but once it has, it will move basically friction free and without play.
    We have tested other remotes with bearings, and some of them had significant play. It is simply, because the braings are so small and the leverage can make the tiniest play noticeable.
    BikeYoke staff member - www.bikeyoke.com

  192. #192
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    Looking forward to the i-spec EV adapter

    Sent using Tapatalk

  193. #193
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    I'm in the exact same situation...need about 10mm more drop and post would be perfect. Really hesitant to cut my frame thought it could handle it.

    So I just ordered some aluminum tubing off ebay in various sizes close to what was called for in the post by Peter Verdone. Not sure I have the guts to do the project but figured I'd at least get my hands on the raw stock if I get inspired.

    Would love it if Sacki/Bikeyoke would chime in here on the prospects of the height reduction kit or at least advice on how to do this without damaging anything.

    I love the post and don't want to use another brand if possible.

    Quote Originally Posted by rotax7 View Post
    TLDR: Like my BY 160, but need slightly less travel w/o having to buy a new post/brand to get the right fit.

    So, I've been enjoying my BikeYoke 160 for about a year now. Used the Revive switch a few times to remove a little squish off the top. I regularly flip my bike up side down to do maint, so I expect it to some extent, that is why I chose a BY Revive.

    My biggest issue is, 160mm is ~10mm too much travel for my use-case. I'd like to get this fitment sorted so I have less soreness related to the issue.

    My options are:
    1-Spacers in current post (probably makes the most sense, easiest, cheapish?).
    2-A shorter post (which would likely be a 150 from a diff manuf, one that I can utilize limiting spacers on, which I'd rather not do due to cost, and I like my BY...).
    3-Cut the frame/seatpost ~10mm (I actually measured it, and I could cut 8-12mm and still use my current clamp, but I'd really rather not have to cut my frame, and on top of that, unsure weather I can even insert the post another 10mm w/o hitting things inside the lowers of the seattube itself, this would basically be a 'free' mod however).

    I've seen some of the talk about spacers, and not being officially supported, and not being warrantied, etc. Thats OK I guess, I bought this post with intent to do my own maint/repairs as needed. But, what I'm wondering is, if anyone has a simple and easy to buy 'kit' yet? Not looking to tear down my post and have to custom machine some part and hope it fits right and doesn't cause further wear on internals.

    I'd really like to have an option from BY at this point. By looking through this thread, they know its of interest to many of their customers..and almost a requirement for an 'in between' option for 125 to 160mm.. 125 is just too short, 140-150mm would prob be perfect for me/my bike.

    One other thing I'd like considered is an 'offset' mount option, so I can set-back the saddle slightly more. Esp. for these 'steep sta' frames that are becoming so popular. My saddle is setback as far as I'm comfortable going (beyond the max limit) currently..

    If anyone has suggestion on where I can get a ready to install 'spacer' setup, I'd welcome it. Also, any pics of the end result, or before-after? I'm assuming it has something to do with?: http://www.peterverdone.com/wp-conte...2/PVD_0642.jpg as hinted at by Revive! | Peter Verdone Designs
    ‘19 orbea oiz tr
    '16 Scott Genius 700 Premium traded in
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    Seven Alta
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  194. #194
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    Quote Originally Posted by sacki View Post
    2. lever must has a movement left-right (you have two holes but it's better to not disassemble lever from clamp/brake lever but just to unscrew a bolt a little bit and move the lever)
    ->When using our I-Spec adapters, you can already move them slightly left and right on the adapter themselves without taking off the remote.
    I use I-Spec B with 2 holes in your remote to move it left-right. I have to disassemble remote from brake's lever to put it reeeealy left (or right). It's much better to have a "sliding" possibility to move remote left-right without taking it apart from brakes. Yes, you have a "hole" in adapter to "slide" remote but it's way too small (something about 7-10 mm). If you could make it all together in one, I mean holes in remote and hole in adapter, in ONE sliding adjuster - that would be perfect.

    Quote Originally Posted by sacki View Post
    3. lever must rotate up/down (like TansX/Brand-X - https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/.../rp-prod176215 - see last photo 10 degrees)
    -> This is something I don´t think is really neccessary. It would require a complex joint, that would make the remote heavy and bulky. Also it would make the remote itself incompatible with I-Spec and Matchmaker adapters.
    Actually just right now, I want so much to rotate a little bit a lever of your remote verticaly. Remote is connected to Saint's lever, Saint's lever is positioned idealy for me (we all understand that braking comfort is the most important), but remote is a liiiitle not as I would it like to be positioned. I guess those 8-10 degrees would save me. )) It's not necessary to do it like Brand X, look at Crankbrothers - the have same possibility but in very different way. Like an idea^ you made an assembling adjuster (screw) to make lever longer (Triggy X), so possibily you could make ''rotationg' adjuster at same place... I mean, the tip of lever is rotating, not the whole lever.
    Anyway, if you'll implement these adjusting (in any way, it's not necessary to do it same way as Brand X) - that would be great!

    Quote Originally Posted by sacki View Post
    4. lever must has and adjuster to push it futher (like PNW Loam - https://www.pnwcomponents.com/collec...12731382825037 - https://youtu.be/psx3Br8OQf0?t=282 4:41 )
    -> Good idea, which we've already been thinking about and tested of in the past (we´ve used a design similar to a limiter screw on snap ring pliers). Not sure, if we´ll really use it series production, though, as some customers are already overwhelmed wit a barrel adjuster. You know, we have to keep things as simple as possible, so every customer understands, how to install a post. More adjustability also means more issues and questions, which are not a problem of the product itself, but a matter of handling. It is really astonishing, how many questions we need to answer, which we didn´t think if we would ever need to answer. If we can avoid simple questions, we´d like to do so.
    Oh, c'mon, it's not dropper internals (hard to understand and servicing for lot of users) - it's a remote, nobody will complain about any difficulty and I don't think there would be some additional questions. Anyway, PNW done it very simply and their solution is just perfect. And, by the way, thousands of riders are thankfully using same idea on their shifter from Sram (X0, XX1) where you can "rotate" lever of shifter. It's a very desirable feature for lot of people.


    Quote Originally Posted by sacki View Post
    5. lever must has all compatibilities (not only new I-Spec EV but also I-Spec B and ALL others for any brake manufacturers).
    -> We already have Matchmaker (SRAM, TRP, Trickstuff), Mixmaster (Formula), Shiftmixer (Magura), Hope Shiftermount, Shimano I-Spec B, I-Spec II compatibility. Besides the new Shimano I-Spec EV (which we are already working on), I am not sure, which other compatibility one could ask for.
    .
    I meant with your any future remotes! I know that today's version is compatible (I use it with Saints M820 )) )
    I hope you will not forget in future about I-Spec B, like others done. And, of course, there always will be adapters for ANY new standarts on any brakes. )

    Quote Originally Posted by sacki View Post
    6. bearing (like in WolfTooth or ZTTO)
    that is a nice feature, but it will also increase the size and weight of the remote. Oue Triggy remote takes a few rides to bed-in, but once it has, it will move basically friction free and without play.
    We have tested other remotes with bearings, and some of them had significant play. It is simply, because the braings are so small and the leverage can make the tiniest play noticeable.
    Seriously, X gramms? )) Wolf Tooth make remotes with bearings and literaly NONE complain about weight, so trust me, if you will make yours with bearing - people will thank you till the end of their lives. )


    I trully believe that if you would implement all these features (same way as other brands, your personal way, any way ) ) in new remote - that would be something unbelievable and you won't have any problems with customers (with questions or anything else).


    Once again, thank you very much for perfect product!!
    OK

  195. #195
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    Quote Originally Posted by ka81ua View Post
    I use I-Spec B with 2 holes in your remote to move it left-right. I have to disassemble remote from brake's lever to put it reeeealy left (or right). It's much better to have a "sliding" possibility to move remote left-right without taking it apart from brakes. Yes, you have a "hole" in adapter to "slide" remote but it's way too small (something about 7-10 mm). If you could make it all together in one, I mean holes in remote and hole in adapter, in ONE sliding adjuster - that would be perfect.

    Actually just right now, I want so much to rotate a little bit a lever of your remote verticaly. Remote is connected to Saint's lever, Saint's lever is positioned idealy for me (we all understand that braking comfort is the most important), but remote is a liiiitle not as I would it like to be positioned. I guess those 8-10 degrees would save me. ))...
    Sometimes is better to use clamp rather than matchmaker, which allows you to do both required adjustments easily.

  196. #196
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    Quote Originally Posted by PeterG View Post
    Sometimes is better to use clamp rather than matchmaker, which allows you to do both required adjustments easily.
    Sometimes (rather often) using clamp will make even worse for getting best lever position.
    We can continue such-kind conversation forever, the fact is - few different adjusting options (which already EXIST in other different dropper remotes as I mentioned) would be very appreciated!
    OK

  197. #197
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    Surely . You took best of the best from various levers asking manufacturer to include them in one product. Don't forget for final competitive lever price, which limits the manufacturer possibilities. The most likely that's the reason, why no lever has all required features, IMHO.

  198. #198
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    IF any of my propositiones will be added to next Triggy Xx - profit! )
    OK

  199. #199
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    Looking for a 150mm. My current reverb is a 170, slammed. A 150mm slammed would be perfect. Does bike yoke really not do a 150?

  200. #200
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    There's a 160. It fits in the same space as most other 150 from other manufacturers

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