BikeYoke REVIVE - Info, Tipps, Tricks, Troubleshooting - Page 2- Mtbr.com
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  1. #201
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    Quote Originally Posted by onzadog View Post
    There's a 160. It fits in the same space as most other 150 from other manufacturers
    That's one of the great things about the Revive, when I got my 160, it was replacing a 125 because it would squeeze in where most 150s couldn't quite fit. There are finally other options for tight fitments but the Revive is still the overall best post on the market in my opinion.

  2. #202
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    Quote Originally Posted by Velodonata View Post
    That's one of the great things about the Revive, when I got my 160, it was replacing a 125 because it would squeeze in where most 150s couldn't quite fit. There are finally other options for tight fitments but the Revive is still the overall best post on the market in my opinion.
    But if I am needing a post that is slammed, and has a max height of 150mm, then the 160mm revive would not work for me right?

  3. #203
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    Not correct. Once you can fit the seatpost in the frame in such way, that the saddle is just in the right height for you, you can choose post with max. available travel, i.e. also 160mm. Travel itself primary doesn't mean anything in this context. Check the 1st post in this thread https://forums.mtbr.com/components/b...g-1087156.html for overall seatpost dimensions.

  4. #204
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    Quote Originally Posted by PeterG View Post
    Not correct. Once you can fit the seatpost in the frame in such way, that the saddle is just in the right height for you, you can choose post with max. available travel, i.e. also 160mm. Travel itself primary doesn't mean anything in this context. Check the 1st post in this thread https://forums.mtbr.com/components/b...g-1087156.html for overall seatpost dimensions.
    Sorry maybe I am confused, but this was what I was thinking....
    I currently have a 170mm reverb. It is slammed.
    I found that if I lower the 170mm to 150, it is perfect. So if I were to by another reverb at 150, slam it, it would be perfect.

    So if I went with a revive, that is 160, slammed it, wouldn't it be 10m higher than a 150m reverb? Thus, the 160 revive being to big?

  5. #205
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    I recommend you again to check BY 160mm seatpost dimensions on the first page of this thread and compare them with Reverb 170mm if it fits frame OK and suits you. I would not like to bear your responsibility on my shoulders.

  6. #206
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    Quote Originally Posted by PeterG View Post
    Surely . You took best of the best from various levers asking manufacturer to include them in one product. Don't forget for final competitive lever price, which limits the manufacturer possibilities. The most likely that's the reason, why no lever has all required features, IMHO.


    Quote Originally Posted by ka81ua View Post
    I use I-Spec B with 2 holes in your remote to move it left-right. I have to disassemble remote from brake's lever to put it reeeealy left (or right). It's much better to have a "sliding" possibility to move remote left-right without taking it apart from brakes. Yes, you have a "hole" in adapter to "slide" remote but it's way too small (something about 7-10 mm). If you could make it all together in one, I mean holes in remote and hole in adapter, in ONE sliding adjuster - that would be perfect.


    Actually just right now, I want so much to rotate a little bit a lever of your remote verticaly. Remote is connected to Saint's lever, Saint's lever is positioned idealy for me (we all understand that braking comfort is the most important), but remote is a liiiitle not as I would it like to be positioned. I guess those 8-10 degrees would save me. )) It's not necessary to do it like Brand X, look at Crankbrothers - the have same possibility but in very different way. Like an idea^ you made an assembling adjuster (screw) to make lever longer (Triggy X), so possibily you could make ''rotationg' adjuster at same place... I mean, the tip of lever is rotating, not the whole lever.
    Anyway, if you'll implement these adjusting (in any way, it's not necessary to do it same way as Brand X) - that would be great!


    Oh, c'mon, it's not dropper internals (hard to understand and servicing for lot of users) - it's a remote, nobody will complain about any difficulty and I don't think there would be some additional questions. Anyway, PNW done it very simply and their solution is just perfect. And, by the way, thousands of riders are thankfully using same idea on their shifter from Sram (X0, XX1) where you can "rotate" lever of shifter. It's a very desirable feature for lot of people.



    I meant with your any future remotes! I know that today's version is compatible (I use it with Saints M820 )) )
    I hope you will not forget in future about I-Spec B, like others done. And, of course, there always will be adapters for ANY new standarts on any brakes. )


    Seriously, X gramms? )) Wolf Tooth make remotes with bearings and literaly NONE complain about weight, so trust me, if you will make yours with bearing - people will thank you till the end of their lives. )


    I trully believe that if you would implement all these features (same way as other brands, your personal way, any way ) ) in new remote - that would be something unbelievable and you won't have any problems with customers (with questions or anything else).


    Once again, thank you very much for perfect product!!
    I agree. A wolf tooth like remote would be highly appreciated. Those few extra grams are well worth it. All my buddies including me are now running a wolf tooth remote with the bikeyoke dropper.

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  7. #207
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    Quote Originally Posted by lardo5150 View Post
    , slammed it,
    I suppose you mean - you insert dropper post in the seat-tube of frame fully, just to the dropper collar?
    OK

  8. #208
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    All droppers are 150 mm travel, except Revive which is 160 mm :
    OK

  9. #209
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    Quote Originally Posted by ka81ua View Post
    I suppose you mean - you insert dropper post in the seat-tube of frame fully, just to the dropper collar?
    Correct, post was fully inserted.

  10. #210
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    I have a Revive 185 with Triggy Remote that came on my Ibis Ripmo (purchased May 2019). I hang the bike on a hook in my garage by the front wheel with the post fully dropped when not in use. When I go to ride, the first time I push the remote, it is extremely hard to push. After it is engaged once it seems to operate normally. Iíve greased the lever and reset the post but the issue persists. Any idea what the issue might be and how to fix it?

  11. #211
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    Quote Originally Posted by lardo5150 View Post
    Correct, post was fully inserted.
    Most important for you is - Collar to Rail.
    So, as you see, even 160 mm Revive will be lower then 150 mm Reverb!
    OK

  12. #212
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    I have a 185 Revive with Triggy Remote that came on my Ibis Ripmo (purchased March 2019). Each time I ride, the first time I push the remote it is extremely hard to push. After that it seems to function normally. Any idea what the cause/solution may be? (When not in use, the bike hangs by the front wheel in my garage with the post all the way down).


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  13. #213
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    Quote Originally Posted by MTBTruckee View Post
    I have a Revive 185 with Triggy Remote that came on my Ibis Ripmo (purchased May 2019). I hang the bike on a hook in my garage by the front wheel with the post fully dropped when not in use. When I go to ride, the first time I push the remote, it is extremely hard to push. After it is engaged once it seems to operate normally. Iíve greased the lever and reset the post but the issue persists. Any idea what the issue might be and how to fix it?
    Have a look at https://forums.mtbr.com/components/b...l#post13477733

  14. #214
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    Pretty sure itís not temperature related as itís summer time here right now.


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  15. #215
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    Quote Originally Posted by MTBTruckee View Post
    Pretty sure itís not temperature related as itís summer time here right now.
    So, I had this issue when I stored and transported my bike with the post fully extended/up. It went from a cool house into the hot temps and direct sun light outside. When I'd get to the trailhead the lever would be 'stuck' initially.

    Since then, I've begun to store and transport with it partially compressed (not at full extension, nor at full-drop). I have had zero issues since. The link above is what helped me solve my issue.
    '18 Guerilla Gravity Smash 140/150 29"
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  16. #216
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    Thanks! Iíll give that a shot.


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  17. #217
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  18. #218
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    Love my 185. 15 months into ownership. I just started having a weird problem though.

    Lately, at various times (wheelies and tight climbing switchbacks primarily) my saddle would rotate. I figured the whole post was rotating in the frame so I would loosen the collar, readjust, then retorque the collar. I added carbon paste after this happened several times.

    I started paying attention to the markings on the post and determined that the lower part of the post wasn't rotating at all. Just the upper stanchion that goes up and down.

    What do I do about this? Thanks for a great product btw.

  19. #219
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    I doubt the stanchion is rotating relative to the slider as there as 6 brass keys to stop this.

    It's more likely that the bond between the stanchion and the saddle clamp has broken loose. I'd try a little dab of paint on the join to confirm this, then drop Sacki an email at Bikeyoke and I'm sure he'd sort you out.

  20. #220
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    I may get a new frame, I have a 160mm Revive, but the new frame has a smaller seat tube diameter. To swap from a 31.6 down to a 30.9, is this all I need:

    30.9mm Lower Seatpost Tube, Bushing, and Wiper (Fits 160mm Travel)
    Mfg #:37, 38, 39 -30.9/160

    From Universalcycles.com


    Thanks for any help. Didn't really find this info on the bike yoke website.

  21. #221
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    I did a search but did not see it.

    Can you control the speed of return? Or is that just managed with the amount of air you put into it?

  22. #222
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    Quote Originally Posted by onzadog View Post
    I doubt the stanchion is rotating relative to the slider as there as 6 brass keys to stop this.

    It's more likely that the bond between the stanchion and the saddle clamp has broken loose. I'd try a little dab of paint on the join to confirm this, then drop Sacki an email at Bikeyoke and I'm sure he'd sort you out.
    Sacki is sending me a new post, no paint necessary. Really feeling validated on choosing and recommending this product. Big to BikeYoke.

  23. #223
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    I am coming from a Reverb.
    i setup my Revive tonight.
    Where the cable meets the remote (arrow in picture), is this supposed to be secure?
    The cable slides in, and I tightened that nut thing, but if I wanted to I could still pull the cable out.
    is this by design? What is the little turn nut/bolt on the end of the remote used for then?

    BikeYoke REVIVE - Info, Tipps, Tricks, Troubleshooting-bike-yoke-remote.jpg

  24. #224
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    Quote Originally Posted by lardo5150 View Post
    I am coming from a Reverb.
    i setup my Revive tonight.
    Where the cable meets the remote (arrow in picture), is this supposed to be secure?
    The cable slides in, and I tightened that nut thing, but if I wanted to I could still pull the cable out.
    is this by design? What is the little turn nut/bolt on the end of the remote used for then?

    Click image for larger version. 

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    You installed the cable backwards? I'm nearly certain that is it. The cable installs just like a shift cable or brake cable, except at the end you install the clamp and cut off the excess.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

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  25. #225
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    No, installed it exactly like from the manual.
    There is a femural on each end.
    The part i cut and added the locking cable end is at the dropper end.
    The built in lock end is at the remote end.Full disclosure that pic is not my remote, was just using it as a picture.
    Also, le tme clarify, when I say "cable comes out", I mean housing. Sorry.

    Should the housing be secured to the remote, or will it be able to slide out?
    The cable is secure, sorry for the confusion.

    Again, wondering if the twister turn knob on the end of the remote, is supposed to secure the femural on the housing.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails BikeYoke REVIVE - Info, Tipps, Tricks, Troubleshooting-cable-housing.jpg  


  26. #226
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    Quote Originally Posted by lardo5150 View Post
    I am coming from a Reverb.
    i setup my Revive tonight.
    Where the cable meets the remote (arrow in picture), is this supposed to be secure?
    The cable slides in, and I tightened that nut thing, but if I wanted to I could still pull the cable out.
    is this by design? What is the little turn nut/bolt on the end of the remote used for then?

    Click image for larger version. 

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    That is cable adjusting barrel, like on derailleur shifter.

  27. #227
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    I got ya.
    Sorry I am dumb.

    So, the cable housing, it just sits in there right? Nothing secures it to the barrel, correct?

    I have the barrel tightened all the way right now, i am assuming if I start to unscrew it, it will pull in the cable tighter?

  28. #228
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    Quote Originally Posted by lardo5150 View Post
    I got ya.
    Sorry I am dumb.

    So, the cable housing, it just sits in there right? Nothing secures it to the barrel, correct?

    I have the barrel tightened all the way right now, i am assuming if I start to unscrew it, it will pull in the cable tighter?
    It sounds like you are just pulling against the quick release (at the post) when you are tugging on the cable housing. The entire mech is spring loaded, so you are pulling against the spring. There should be no play (unsprung) movement, but itís normal to be able to pull on the cable housing, if you couldnít, then youíd never be able to remove the quick release at the post.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

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  29. #229
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    I broke my reset lever yesterday, ironically while trying to demonstrate it to some friends.

    Any tips for how to remove the broken stub from the hex hole? I'm assuming drill it out carefully with a Dremel tool?

    Edit: I drilled into it carefully with a 3/32 bit. After I got about 1mm in, the friction between the stub and the bit was enough for me to pull out the stub with the bit. I lubed the rest of the reset assembly and tested it. It moves fine with a 4mm wrench but the amount of force on the lever is pretty high (I have a spare lever), so I decided to leave the lever off. I carry a multi-tool, and have only had to reset the post once or twice, so it's not like I need to reset the post constantly.

  30. #230
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    Hope

    BikeYoke REVIVE - Info, Tipps, Tricks, Troubleshooting-img_20190818_184944366.jpg

    Today the seat head snapped off the post. I stabbed myself in the bag pretty bad (still hurts) and happened about 2/3 of the way in on a big ride...day 2 of 2.

    Imo the amount of aluminum attaching the seat head to the post is seriously inadequate. This post was basically new and certainly looking forward to time and effort to warranty a $460 post.
    It is no measure of health to be well adjusted to a profoundly sick society.

  31. #231
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andeh View Post
    I broke my reset lever yesterday, ironically while trying to demonstrate it to some friends.

    Any tips for how to remove the broken stub from the hex hole? I'm assuming drill it out carefully with a Dremel tool?

    Edit: I drilled into it carefully with a 3/32 bit. After I got about 1mm in, the friction between the stub and the bit was enough for me to pull out the stub with the bit. I lubed the rest of the reset assembly and tested it. It moves fine with a 4mm wrench but the amount of force on the lever is pretty high (I have a spare lever), so I decided to leave the lever off. I carry a multi-tool, and have only had to reset the post once or twice, so it's not like I need to reset the post constantly.
    Tip - epoxide.
    OK

  32. #232
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    Quote Originally Posted by WHALENARD View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Today the seat head snapped off the post. I stabbed myself in the bag pretty bad (still hurts) and happened about 2/3 of the way in on a big ride...day 2 of 2.

    Imo the amount of aluminum attaching the seat head to the post is seriously inadequate. This post was basically new and certainly looking forward to time and effort to warranty a $460 post.
    Ouch. I hope you're ok.

  33. #233
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    Quote Originally Posted by jon_ssss View Post
    Ouch. I hope you're ok.
    Thanks. A little sore today but am sure I'll be fine.
    Bummed as I loved this post. It was great right up until it wasn't
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  34. #234
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    Quote Originally Posted by sacki View Post
    [FONT=Verdana]
    NOTE:
    Do not use WD40, Brunox, Fork Juice or similar (penetrating) oils on your REVIVE or on any other your suspension parts in general. Those products will just wash out your grease over time!
    Also do not use any other oil inside your lower tube. Proper grease is the way to go.
    Hi, would the finish line stanchion lube (fluoride) fall in the above category?

    Cheers

  35. #235
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    anybody?

  36. #236
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    I do not know this lubricant, but I would assume that it falls into this category, yes.
    BikeYoke staff member - www.bikeyoke.com

  37. #237
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    About @jon_ssss's issue.
    It is not the first time we see this happening, yet it is very rare.
    Iīll provide some numbers here:
    In over 30.000 produced units of droppers, we have had just a bit over 1% (something below 1.2% to be more precise) reported warranty cases.
    Those include everything from hydraulic issues, mechanical issues, and structural issues.
    This is a very good value for a suspension product
    Structural issues, where posts have actually failed or broken are about 1/10 of those warranty cases.
    While some of our customers, us included, and also 100% of our sponsored riders (>100 posts are out ther with sponsored, professional riders, who bascially ride every day) have never had a single structural failure, there are for example three customers, who already broke two posts in a row. Then, some of the failures had a severe crash involved (e.g bent saddle rails) before the post gave up a few days later. Other customers, had the saddle installed out of the allowed range (too far too the back) and some of them had the saddle clamp oriented the wrong way.
    So in some of the cases, we do have explanations for such a failure.
    On some of the cases, however, we could not find anything extraordinary about. At least we did not get any feedback from the customer to get a lead.
    Every warranty cases goes over my table, and so I am always keen to finding out, which circumstances the failure happend around.
    We are super sorry to see or hear about any single problem with our posts, and of course a structural failure is that, what we donīt want to see at all.
    On test benches, we never had a single case, where a head snapped off, as seen in the picture. Yet, it can apparently happen in real life.
    We are currently still investigating this structural behaviour and trying to find a solution to avoid such failures in the future.
    Just wanted to leave those words here, as I felt I shoud give a statement.

    I have also already reached out to Jon_ssss, a few days ago, but did not hear back from him so far. His case is even more remarkable, because he said, that hos post is bascially new, so I am really curious about this one.
    BikeYoke staff member - www.bikeyoke.com

  38. #238
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    Quote Originally Posted by sacki View Post
    About @jon_ssss's issue...
    ...I have also already reached out to Jon_ssss, a few days ago, but did not hear back from him so far. His case is even more remarkable, because he said, that hos post is bascially new, so I am really curious about this one.
    I think you may have reached out to the wrong individual. It was WHALENARD who had the broken post head issue. Jon_ssss only commented on it



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  39. #239
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    Oh, I did actually reach out to WHALENARD (so, to the right person).
    I just mistakenly took the wrong name here from the comment with the picture.
    BikeYoke staff member - www.bikeyoke.com

  40. #240
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    Quote Originally Posted by sacki View Post
    Oh, I did actually reach out to WHALENARD (so, to the right person).
    I just mistakenly took the wrong name here from the comment with the picture.
    Sacki, thanks for reaching out to me. That's GREAT costumer service and truely appreciate it. Super busy this time of year but should have time to get the warranty process started this afternoon.
    Thanks
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  41. #241
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    Quote Originally Posted by sacki View Post
    I do not know this lubricant, but I would assume that it falls into this category, yes.
    Thanks, I have 2 Revives btw, don't think I can ever use another post!

    Looking at the youtube video I read: "IMPORTANT NOTE:
    Releasing air (unlike shown in the video)", but I don't actually see air getting released on the video, am I missing it?

  42. #242
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    I guess I need to update the description. We have cut the air release part already out of the video.
    BikeYoke staff member - www.bikeyoke.com

  43. #243
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    With the Bike Yoke, and looking at how far the saddle can go back or go forward, where it says MAX on the rails, which clamp are we comparing this to, the top or bottom clamp?

    So using my actual seat and post, am I at the max or can it be moved more?

    BikeYoke REVIVE - Info, Tipps, Tricks, Troubleshooting-20190906_122528.jpg

  44. #244
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    Regarding the suggested circlip pliers, Knipex 49 41 A11 and 48 41 J21, since they're pretty expensive for occasional use (around 50 euros each here in Europe), I bought the 48 21 J21 and 49 21 A11 instead, which cost less than half as much and lack the "overstretching limiter" feature, they should be ok for once or twice per year use on my Revive seatposts.

  45. #245
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    Hi! How can I upgrade to the microvalve? I watched the video on full rebuild and it mentioned replacing inner tube (part 22). Is this the case? Or is it only the valve needing to be replaced? Is the microvalve included in the o-ring kit?

  46. #246
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    Whatís a fair price to sell a revive to a good friend? Doesnít fit my new bike, works on buddies bike. I donít want to even charge but he insists. A search found no used revives for sale, not surprising as they work great. Any ideas?
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  47. #247
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark16q View Post
    Whatís a fair price to sell a revive to a good friend? Doesnít fit my new bike, works on buddies bike. I donít want to even charge but he insists. A search found no used revives for sale, not surprising as they work great. Any ideas?
    How old is it? I might pay $250 for one, from a friend, with a known history, low hours, and if it were exactly the right fitment. Otherwise I wouldn't pay more than $0.50 on the dollar, if that, for any used dropper. If it's not a bargain, there are too many potential issues to not have a warranty, even with a premium post like a Revive. Since you weren't looking to make anything anyway, I would say $150 to a friend if it's nice.

  48. #248
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark16q View Post
    Whatís a fair price to sell a revive to a good friend? Doesnít fit my new bike, works on buddies bike. I donít want to even charge but he insists.
    $50 and he buys dinner and drinks.

  49. #249
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nat View Post
    $50 and he buys dinner and drinks.
    I'd say something like this. Revive's an are expensive high end piece. If a friend gave me one I'd buy him a nice bottle of Scotch or some really high end cigars or a nice headlamp or something. Something he would enjoy that he wouldn't typically buy for himself, that's how it works.
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  50. #250
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    Quote Originally Posted by WHALENARD View Post
    I'd say something like this. Revive's an are expensive high end piece. If a friend gave me one I'd buy him a nice bottle of Scotch or some really high end cigars or a nice headlamp or something. Something he would enjoy that he wouldn't typically buy for himself, that's how it works.
    Yep. With close friends it's more like gift-giving than buying/selling.

  51. #251
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nat View Post
    Yep. With close friends it's more like gift-giving than buying/selling.
    Thanks all for the input.

    I agree but he's insistent. It's in really good shape and well taken care of. Not the issue, he just doesn't like taking stuff for nothing. He was a dropper holdout and this finally got him to do it. Big surprise, first ride and he's giddy with how much more fun descending is.

    If he really pushes, a bottle of wine or dinner. No doubt in my mind he'd give it to me if it were the other way around.

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  52. #252
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    BikeYoke REVIVE - Info, Tipps, Tricks, Troubleshooting-img_20191006_055342.jpg

    I had been investigating the Revive dropper of my friend as it was leaking air.

    At first I though it was just an inflating issue as he didnt have a 2 stage shock pump. I was able to get the dropper working properly after inflation but after reinstalling his saddle, the leak happened again.

    I opened up the dropper (lowers maintenance) and I was almost going to suggest to my friend we get the o-ring kit (hence my query a few posts beforehand for the microvalve upgrade) UNTIL I noticed these cracks.

    I think air is leaking from these cracks...

  53. #253
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    Before I go spending more time (and a little money) on housing and new cable...
    Can you get a good "feather" feel on this for when you just want to drop it a few mm. I'm coming off a couple Fall Line (R) , last one being a 150mm R. I bought the 185mm to throw on my Ripley, but I can't get that buttery smooth feathering I had on the 9Point8. I just replaced the lever with a PNW loam lever, but it still has a grabby initial stroke. I really miss the light feel on the Fall Line R that allowed me to easily drop the post just a few mm for the options on our pedally trails.

    I don't want to waste my time replacing housing and cable if it won't help. Thx

    EDIT: I worded this bad. I am referring to the smooth pull on the trigger, NOT the dropper itself. The 9point8 has equal resistance throughout the trigger pull and you can PARITALLY disengage the "brake" ie feather it. The Revive has an ON-OFF type feel. You pull the trigger and it hits a bit of resistance that eventually gives. You can't semi-disengage the brake to make micro adjustments.
    Last edited by GatorXman; 10-09-2019 at 05:18 AM.

  54. #254
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    With the wolf tooth lever my revive had the lightest action of any post I've ever felt. I wouldn't necessarily equate that with ease of nailing those micro repositions for me though.
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    Quote Originally Posted by GatorXman View Post
    Before I go spending more time (and a little money) on housing and new cable...
    Can you get a good "feather" feel on this for when you just want to drop it a few mm. I'm coming off a couple Fall Line (R) , last one being a 150mm R. I bought the 185mm to throw on my Ripley, but I can't get that buttery smooth feathering I had on the 9Point8. I just replaced the lever with a PNW loam lever, but it still has a grabby initial stroke. I really miss the light feel on the Fall Line R that allowed me to easily drop the post just a few mm for the options on our pedally trails.

    I don't want to waste my time replacing housing and cable if it won't help. Thx
    I will say this, the "buttery smooth" feeling on the Revive is as good or better than anything else on the market. I'm running a backup Transfer on one of my fatbikes right now and it feels like a brick on peanut butter compared to the velvety action of my Revives. I don't think it's possible to get as accurate as a few mm on a dropper post, moving along, bouncing, etc., but IME, it allows you to do this better than anything else. The regular Bikeyoke remote is plenty good. A wolftooth is a wash IME (have one too), the longer throw/reduced force wolftooth will obviously be a little easier yet, but one of the best features about these posts is how buttery/smooth they are stock. The action is very very good.
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  56. #256
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    Quote Originally Posted by WHALENARD View Post
    With the wolf tooth lever my revive had the lightest action of any post I've ever felt. I wouldn't necessarily equate that with ease of nailing those micro repositions for me though.
    Quote Originally Posted by Jayem View Post
    I will say this, the "buttery smooth" feeling on the Revive is as good or better than anything else on the market. I'm running a backup Transfer on one of my fatbikes right now and it feels like a brick on peanut butter compared to the velvety action of my Revives. I don't think it's possible to get as accurate as a few mm on a dropper post, moving along, bouncing, etc., but IME, it allows you to do this better than anything else. The regular Bikeyoke remote is plenty good. A wolftooth is a wash IME (have one too), the longer throw/reduced force wolftooth will obviously be a little easier yet, but one of the best features about these posts is how buttery/smooth they are stock. The action is very very good.
    I edited my original post...

    I worded this bad. I am referring to the smooth pull on the trigger, NOT the dropper itself. Both droppers drop and raise smoothly. However, the 9point8 has equal resistance throughout the trigger pull and you can PARITALLY disengage the "brake" ie feather it. This is super handy when trying to just drop it a few mm. The Revive has an ON-OFF type feel. You pull the trigger and it hits a bit of resistance that eventually gives and the "brake" fully disengages. You can't semi-disengage the brake to make micro adjustments.

  57. #257
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    Quote Originally Posted by GatorXman View Post
    I edited my original post...

    I worded this bad. I am referring to the smooth pull on the trigger, NOT the dropper itself. Both droppers drop and raise smoothly. However, the 9point8 has equal resistance throughout the trigger pull and you can PARITALLY disengage the "brake" ie feather it. This is super handy when trying to just drop it a few mm. The Revive has an ON-OFF type feel. You pull the trigger and it hits a bit of resistance that eventually gives and the "brake" fully disengages. You can't semi-disengage the brake to make micro adjustments.
    I get what you're saying and is what I eluded to in my post. I'd disagree on "on/off" but does seem to have a narrower window compared to posts that use cartridges. Ultimately I think it's a matter of conditioning and taste. For example I don't like the actual brake mechanism style posts like 9point8 at all, they feel very unrefined comparatively. With that if I had been using one for years others may feel strange compared to it .
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  58. #258
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    Quote Originally Posted by WHALENARD View Post
    I get what you're saying and is what I eluded to in my post. I'd disagree on "on/off" but does seem to have a narrower window compared to posts that use cartridges. Ultimately I think it's a matter of conditioning and taste. For example I don't like the actual brake mechanism style posts like 9point8 at all, they feel very unrefined comparatively. With that if I had been using one for years others may feel strange compared to it .
    The 9point8 uses a unique mechanism that works entirely different from any other post(Race Face licenses the mechanism for the Turbine post) and has a different feel for this reason. The Revive will never feel like the 9point8, which could be a problem if you were very used to the 9point8 although I feel like the Revive is a superior post in general.

  59. #259
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    Hmmm ... I went from Race Face Turbine to Revive and found it very plush and sensitive enough to small height adjustments. Worth to mention I use X-Fusion Hilo remote joystick type lever (because of 2x drivetrain, hence 3 levers on the left side). I also think the sensitivity of height adjustment can be related to cable preload tension too (barrel adjustment).

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    If micro adjustments are the objective, the best technique I've found is to put one foot at the bottom of the pedal stroke, stand on that leg, and then actuate your dropper. By varying the bend of my knee slightly from that position, I can consistently get pretty tiny increments of seat position. Much more predictable than pushing the lever and trying to "squat" with both knees to a particular seat height.
    With just a little practice, its easy to nail that ~25mm down position for seated riding through tech sections, for example.

  61. #261
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    Bikeyoke travel reduction

    For anyone interested I have reduced the travel on my 160mm bikeyoke by 20mm. It now tops out at 140mm and allows me to use the bikeyoke in my new frame (which had less insertion depth than previous). A friend of mine fabricated a spacer and it was a relatively straightforward procedure to fit. Itís an interference fit so doesnít move on the shaft and works perfectly. If anyone is interested in more details drop me a PM. Cheers
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails BikeYoke REVIVE - Info, Tipps, Tricks, Troubleshooting-c3a845da-c74d-4e51-b67e-b596c3e5a25b.jpg  


  62. #262
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    Quote Originally Posted by richwales View Post
    For anyone interested I have reduced the travel on my 160mm bikeyoke by 20mm. It now tops out at 140mm and allows me to use the bikeyoke in my new frame (which had less insertion depth than previous). A friend of mine fabricated a spacer and it was a relatively straightforward procedure to fit. Itís an interference fit so doesnít move on the shaft and works perfectly. If anyone is interested in more details drop me a PM. Cheers
    Good job wish I had the guts to do this. Hopefully bikeyoke will give an official kit to accomplish this and shorten the stack height when needed. At least the buddy I gave my bikeyoke to is loving it.
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  63. #263
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    What is everyone finding as a good replacement for the triggy lever? I recently got a Paul Components lever because I usually love their stuff, but honestly I donít like it that much. Itís too long of a throw. I know the Wolftooth levers are pretty popular, but is that the LA or regular version? My only complaint with the triggy is that it just felt cheap, so I wanted to replace it.
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  64. #264
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    Quote Originally Posted by blaklabl View Post
    What is everyone finding as a good replacement for the triggy lever? I recently got a Paul Components lever because I usually love their stuff, but honestly I donít like it that much. Itís too long of a throw. I know the Wolftooth levers are pretty popular, but is that the LA or regular version? My only complaint with the triggy is that it just felt cheap, so I wanted to replace it.
    No complaints with triggy from me.

    I used the Wolf Tooth aftermarket for a long time and loved it, but that was on my GD post.

    When i bought Revive I thought Iíd have a test period using Triggy and could go back to WT if warranted. But never thought about t.

    In fact, I find the Triggy to be a lot easier to adjust (position), and to thread cable. I havenít used WT in a while now, but given that I stuck with triggy, the lever action must be similar, or it made me forget?


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  65. #265
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    Anybody have time on the Divine and compare it to the Revive?

  66. #266
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    Quote Originally Posted by blaklabl View Post
    What is everyone finding as a good replacement for the triggy lever? I recently got a Paul Components lever because I usually love their stuff, but honestly I donít like it that much. Itís too long of a throw. I know the Wolftooth levers are pretty popular, but is that the LA or regular version? My only complaint with the triggy is that it just felt cheap, so I wanted to replace it.
    The standard Wolf Tooth lever works great with my Revive, I already had one when I got my Revive so I left it on the bike. I ended up using the Triggy on another bike with my old Thomson post, it works fine too but I prefer the feel of the WT lever. It feels smoother and more solid, definitely not "cheap".

  67. #267
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    Got some saddle time with the loam lever, and after engaging the dropper a few times, everything smoothed out and i can micro adjust much easier than with the stock lever. Super smooth action like you guys described. I think the cable must have been hanging or something from being rolled so tight in the package, because the throw and action of the lever got better and better as the ride progressed.

  68. #268
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    How do you guys clean the lower tube? Especially the grooves, they have some gunk stuck inside that I can't seem to get rid of...
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  69. #269
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    I imagine it's no different than cleaning fork stanchions: use some mild degreaser and run lint-free shop towels through them a few times. I've never had to use the degreaser myself. Usually a couple passes with towels gets it spotless.

  70. #270
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    Yes but the grooves are too hard to access with a rag, there is no pressure in them so the gunk doesn't budge.
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  71. #271
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    You can use isopropyl alcohol and a tooth brush, or a small bottle brush.

  72. #272
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aglo View Post
    You can use isopropyl alcohol and a tooth brush, or a small bottle brush.
    Exactly what I ended up doing. I also used a cotton swap as the channels near the dust wiper were really dirty and needed a good rubbing the toothbrush couldnít provide.

    Conclusion: PrepM attracts too much dirt, I got some SRAM Butter in the mean time and itís 100x better.
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  73. #273
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    Hey bikeyoke, are you goin to have adapter for the new shimano brakes ispec EV?

  74. #274
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skarhead View Post
    Hey bikeyoke, are you goin to have adapter for the new shimano brakes ispec EV?
    X2!
    I'm going to replace my brake lever and it would be nice not having to install the sleek light weight and good looking handlebar clamp .

  75. #275
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    So you use grease for the install and not carbon assembly paste? Even in a carbon frame?
    First carbon frame, first Revive.

  76. #276
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    For the years I use exclusively sticky grease (PrepM), very very thin layer, on all posts even in carbon frames, the same for the Revive.

  77. #277
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    Got the wrong service kit, would it be ok to replace the wiper with the metal spring with the one without?

    Also, would it be ok to use a smear of generic teflon grease on the stanchion and wiper? (not for the service)

  78. #278
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    Quote Originally Posted by ImaginaryFriend View Post
    So you use grease for the install and not carbon assembly paste? Even in a carbon frame?
    First carbon frame, first Revive.
    This depends on whether or not the post slips or rotates too easily in your frame at the suggested binder torque.
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  79. #279
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    Should I release air in the post before flying with my bike?

    Thanks
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  80. #280
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    Yeah, We are making it already and should have it ready to ship before end of the year.
    Actually, we had planned it for a long time, but did many adjustments over several prototype stages.
    Took much longer than expected for such a little piece.
    BikeYoke staff member - www.bikeyoke.com

  81. #281
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    Yes, please use grease!
    Carbon Paste can rub off the anodization of your post and also cause the post to get stuck inside your frame in the worst case.
    We always suggest to use a layer of thick grease on your post, as it will help to prevent corrosion and also helps keep water away from getting in your frame through the seattube.
    Carbon past is only an emergency solution, if you canīt get your post secured properly with grease.
    BikeYoke staff member - www.bikeyoke.com

  82. #282
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    The wiper will not properly fit, if used in the wrong lower tube.
    Are you located in the US? If so, you may want to get in touch with the guys from Dirtlabs. They may sell you a wiper only or exchange the wiper, if you pay for the shipping.
    Good Guys!

    Regarding the grease: What do you want to use it for, if not for the service?
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  83. #283
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    BTW: Iīve updated the explosion view drawing on the first page.
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  84. #284
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    sacki, could you please explain in a brief the difference between Divine and Revive? Divine has user adjustable travel that's a big advantage for many customers and lower pricing. Why one should choose Revive? )

  85. #285
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    Quote Originally Posted by sacki View Post
    The wiper will not properly fit, if used in the wrong lower tube.
    Are you located in the US? If so, you may want to get in touch with the guys from Dirtlabs. They may sell you a wiper only or exchange the wiper, if you pay for the shipping.
    Good Guys!

    Regarding the grease: What do you want to use it for, if not for the service?
    Hi, I'm located in Europe.

    Regarding the grease, I want to use it regularly to keep the wiper from getting dry (I ride in dry dusty conditions) and also to help keep dirt and water (from post ride clean up) away.

  86. #286
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    OK, Differences between DIVINE and REVIVE:

    First of all, it is really hard to even tell for me, which post I prefer over the other.

    Both posts are super easy to service, to take apart and put back together.
    The lower tube service follows the exact same steps as the REVIVE and also requires the same spare parts kit.
    If you want to completely strip down the post, then DIVINE is even simpler to take apart and rebuild due to less parts on the internals.

    DIVINE is slightly lighter than REVIVE.

    DIVINE has an auto reset function, which means, you do not have to reset the post manually anymore. It will automatically do by itself.

    DIVINE is slightly cheaper than REVIVE.

    DIVINE features the same materials and build/finish quality as REVIVE.

    DIVIVE is travel-adjustable.

    Now one might think, why you would ever choose REVIVE over DIVINE.

    There are simply the superb actuation and dropping forces, which are significantly lower on the REVIVE. The REVIVE has a smoothness, which is unrivaled by other hydraulic droppers on the market.
    This does not mean, that the DIVINE is hard to drop or to engage. The DIVINE is still at least same, if not better than most other droppers on the market. You will basically only notice a difference, if youīve felt a REVIVE before.
    And for those enthusiasts, who are looking for the smoothest dropper possible, the REVIVE is the best choice.

    I am visiting our dealers once in a while and there is one nice story, that reminds me, that REVIVE can be a changer for some people:
    I was at a dealer, to whom a customer just returned a rental bike (EVIL Offering). The customer had the bike for about 10 days for a vacation trip to Italy. I was in the corner listening them talk stuff about bike and suspension, ride feeling, ... (customer did not know, who I was). Then the customer mentioned something, which really surprised me. He literally mentioned, that we was really impressed by the dropper post and how easy it was to use, and that he had never had used a post like this before. I am not exaggerating. No need to mention, that this almost left me blushing and of course it made me really really proud about the REVIVE.
    Of course, ourselves, we do know, that the REVIVE is smooth and good. Yet, hearing is from a customer, who did not even know about this post or brand before (it was just a dropper to him), and who recognized, that it did something differently than other posts, showed me, that REVIVE IS different than other posts, and that people notice.
    I am not saying, that it is necessary to have super light drop, yet it definitely cna make a difference for some customers.

    For everyone, who doesnīt care if the post requires 8kg or 12g to drop (values just exemplary without real life reference) and who believes, that his ass is heavy enough anyway (like me), then the DIVINE might be the better option.

    The REVIVE is simply state of the art and industry leading in terms of friction and smoothness, that is, why the REVIVE will stay our top of the line model.
    BikeYoke staff member - www.bikeyoke.com

  87. #287
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    Quote Originally Posted by gcann View Post
    Hi, I'm located in Europe.

    Regarding the grease, I want to use it regularly to keep the wiper from getting dry (I ride in dry dusty conditions) and also to help keep dirt and water (from post ride clean up) away.
    I would use normal grease (one of the suggested or another suespension grease) or a bit of Fox WT20 Gold on your finger tips. Fox WT 20 Gold is avery sticky oil, which is excellent to keep things lubricated and helps to keep water and dirt away from the insides. However, you should make sure to wipe off and re-apply the grease regularly, if you lube it externally.

    If you send me an e-mail to [email protected] then I can help you out with a wiper exchange.
    BikeYoke staff member - www.bikeyoke.com

  88. #288
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    Quote Originally Posted by sacki View Post
    The REVIVE is simply state of the art and industry leading in terms of friction and smoothness, that is, why the REVIVE will stay our top of the line model.
    Thank you for the comprehensive answer. Do you plan to update Revive with travel adjustment in the future?

  89. #289
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    No plans for that. The REVIVE has much less clearence between piston and inne tube than REVIVE, so a clip-on solution is not suitable here. It would require a more complicated strip of the internals and it would require a disassembly of pistion and shaft.
    BikeYoke staff member - www.bikeyoke.com

  90. #290
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    Quote Originally Posted by sacki View Post
    I would use normal grease (one of the suggested or another suespension grease) or a bit of Fox WT20 Gold on your finger tips. Fox WT 20 Gold is avery sticky oil, which is excellent to keep things lubricated and helps to keep water and dirt away from the insides. However, you should make sure to wipe off and re-apply the grease regularly, if you lube it externally.

    If you send me an e-mail to [email protected] then I can help you out with a wiper exchange.
    Thanks!

  91. #291
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    I love the the Triggy. Best stock lever I have tried (of 5 brands).

  92. #292
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    Quote Originally Posted by richwales View Post
    For anyone interested I have reduced the travel on my 160mm bikeyoke by 20mm. It now tops out at 140mm and allows me to use the bikeyoke in my new frame (which had less insertion depth than previous). A friend of mine fabricated a spacer and it was a relatively straightforward procedure to fit. Itís an interference fit so doesnít move on the shaft and works perfectly. If anyone is interested in more details drop me a PM. Cheers
    Appreciate if you can elaborate more on this spacer for Revive travel reduction.
    Dimensions/material/how to assemble and etc.

  93. #293
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    Hi -

    I need to order a service kit for my revive but I am unsure where the Serial Number is located to order the correct one.

    Any help is appreciated.

    Thanks.

  94. #294
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    You don't need to know the serial number. You just need to check, whether your wiper has a small metal spring, or not.
    The difference is explained on our website in the article description:
    https://www.bikeyoke.de/en/revive-service-kit.html
    BikeYoke staff member - www.bikeyoke.com

  95. #295
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    Serviced one of my posts with the rebuild kit two nights ago...went smooth. And by smooth, I mean it's smooooooooooooth.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

    You're turning black metallic.

  96. #296
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    Quote Originally Posted by sacki View Post
    Just a quick not on the comment above.
    You donīt have to take the reset lever apart to access the valve.
    Only if youīve lost your air adapter, you CAN disassemble the reset axle to access the valve without the air adapter and the shock pump directly.
    I tried to make it as clear as possible in the manual, and I am sorry, if it is confusing. Here is a copy of the mentioned manual page, where I highlighted the bold "OR" with yellow marker:


    Glad to hear, the post works fine, again.
    I have a Ripmo, and never saw the air adapter when I had the bike assembled at my LBS. I want to remove the reset assembly and check the pressure. I got the 2mm in and removed the set screw that holds the pin that functions to push down on the valve. I have the set screw and the pin out of the assembly. HOW IN THE HELL do I get the actually rod out? The 4mm side just spins, and the other side is round. I'm nervous to try to force it out of there too hard. I tried gently pushing...and it won't push out in either direction.

    How do you get it out so there's room to put a shock pump on the top???

    I guess I should add that the reason is...the lever won't return completely, and today my post wouldn't stay up as a result. I don't know if it's pressure, needs a new cable, or what. I've had the bike since April, and from the day I got the post it has leaked a substantial amount of oil/grease. I was told that was normal for Bike Yoke, so I haven't worried about it. I will likely send it off for a full service, but I was hoping to at least be able to ride the next few days. I will check the cable as well, and I guess from my reading...it could be the white foam insert. If the pressure and cable don't solve it, then I guess the next step is the LBS for a lower service, and see if replacing the foam and other things will remedy the issue.

    Oh...and naturally, I was just bragging about the post this morning before the ride, when some other rider's Reverbs wouldn't work in the cold. Then bam...mine started acting up. I should have known better!

  97. #297
    Nat
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    On mine, that barrel marked by the 4mm just pushed out from the 2mm end. If I recall correctly itís held in place by a couple of o-rings. You removed the 1.5mm set screw you said?

  98. #298
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nat View Post
    On mine, that barrel marked by the 4mm just pushed out from the 2mm end. If I recall correctly itís held in place by a couple of o-rings. You removed the 1.5mm set screw you said?
    Thanks for the reply man! No...the set screw is what had me bumfuzzled, in fact. :-) I removed the 2mm set screw that holds the pin in place, but there was just enough accrued dirt that I couldn't even see that 1.5mm set screw. I looked closer at the drawing and then grabbed a brush and exposed that set screw, and that allowed me to remove it with no problem.

    So...it was at 150. I ran it up to 250, but who knows how much bled out when I removed the pump. I don't like that design. It's so narrow that I literally had to use needle nose pliers to screw the pump connector on, because of how far the connector sits down in there. I realize it's meant for a special adapter, but like me, I bet most people who buy complete bikes never see that special adapter tool. My fear on things like that is that for air to leak out of a closed system, it means there has to be a seal that's going bad, or some cause. OR...it was always at 150 and I just didn't know it, and it was working fine like that.

    At any rate, as it turns out...it was the dang cable anyway. It was frayed right in the lever assembly, just enough to make it stick. I couldn't see it the first time I looked at it. I think it was just wear and tear from operation.

    NOW...my only concern is whether or not the post has enough air, because it sounded like quite a bit leaked out when I took the pump off, but I've always been told that's just the air from the pump tubing. If it's not...then it may have close to zero air in it, and I'll have to take the whole damn thing apart again, and try it with a different pump that fits on there a little better. My LBS doesn't have that special tool...I asked the owner. He's going to get one ordered, but that's not helping me right now. :-)

    At any rate, we'll see what happens. It seems to be popping up nicely, and isn't sagging under my weight, so I guess it's game on unless I have issues. I just hope they don't crop up 12 miles from my car on a ride!

  99. #299
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    Quote Originally Posted by NWAtrailyguy View Post
    I've always been told that's just the air from the pump tubing.
    Ever taken the valve out of a tube? See the spring on it? That is inside virtually every kind of air chamber used with bikes. As soon as air pressure starts pushing out the opposite way and you are no longer depressing the core to keep it open, it slams shut due to the pressure. In other words, it's a one-way-valve or "check-valve". Even basically the same as an oil-line check valve.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

    You're turning black metallic.

  100. #300
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    Can anyone here explain the difference(s) between the Revive and the Divine?
    Death from Below.

  101. #301
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    Divine has internal adjustment with spacers(which it comes with), you can reduce the travel.
    it's cheaper.
    The need for the bleed lever eliminated, the post resets after every full drop so there is no lever like on the Revive.
    I think the website shows the differences quite well.
    https://www.bikeyoke.de/en/seatpost-...-185-30-9.html
    https://www.bikeyoke.de/en/seatpost-...-185-30-9.html

    Quote Originally Posted by Le Duke View Post
    Can anyone here explain the difference(s) between the Revive and the Divine?

  102. #302
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    Just a few posts above your question I do explain it:
    https://forums.mtbr.com/components/b...l#post14407415
    BikeYoke staff member - www.bikeyoke.com

  103. #303
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    ^^ legit the revive is.

    been riding my fat bike in snow lately and it has a Garnet and it's ok but a slug compared to the revive.
    "Put your seatbelt back on or get out and sit in the middle of that circle of death." - Johnny Scoot

  104. #304
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    Hey Guys, please check out this one here:
    https://forums.mtbr.com/components/b...n-1125619.html
    BikeYoke staff member - www.bikeyoke.com

  105. #305
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    Do you just want 185 data or 160 as well?

  106. #306
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    Only 185 for now. Obviously, this is the most critical post lenght.
    We can do a similar thread for the shorte lenghts, if people are intrested. Mostly I get questions about the 185.
    BikeYoke staff member - www.bikeyoke.com

  107. #307
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    Well, I've added the bike with the 185. The 160 I have only just fully inserted into a large ibis mojo hd3, so I know it wouldn't take a 185.

  108. #308
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    New question here.

    How to remove #51 spring pin 3x10 ?
    That pin holds #48 avtuator lever. I want to take it out, clean everything there and regrease.

    Can I just lightly hammer it out?

    https://forums.mtbr.com/attachments/...loded_view.jpg

    OK

  109. #309
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    Caution;  Merge;  Workers Ahead!

    So, removed it.
    As you may see - surface of 48 is slightly shabby (sorry for bad english). That makes working of dropper lever bit different, no so smooth as at the begining.
    I guess slightly sanding it will resolve the "problem"..
    I wish I had that actuator lever new right now so I could feel the diference ..



    OK

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