Suggest an inexpensive but decent rear hub, 135mm x 32h, cassette, rim- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Suggest an inexpensive but decent rear hub, 135mm x 32h, cassette, rim

    Thinking I want to go ahead and find a decent rear hub in the truly proper size for my commute/cross bike, to lace into the 700C alexrims cross wheel I have. It is currently a 130mm, with what I believe is a generic or maybe wheel masters hub (black) 32 holes, rim brake, and I will put a 7 speed cassette in there to be shifted by my Deore XTii. Right now I have the 130mm hub in the 136mm dropouts, just clamped in, but have decided I am not comfortable with that for the long term. I could use a spacer and re-dish, but am thinking why not just get a hub that is not too expensive, and possibly spokes if I have to and learn to re-lace a wheel and do it right. I am going to put a lot of miles on this bike so it is worth a little extra effort. not going to buy a more expensive wheel as this set hits it right between durable enough, and light enough for my commute-cross purposes. Cheap replacement wheels look heavier than this one, and are all drilled for schrader. Not a big deal, but still.

    So, Hubs.

    Wheelmasters makes one, and I also found a shimano Deore M590 and a Deore T610, though I cannot figure out what the difference is between the two.

    There are also Shimano FH-M470 that looks to have come off an old Fisher MTB, a Weinman 7,8 or 9 speed LX cassette, and others similar on fleabay.

    Suggestions? Sure it would be nice to throw down and buy a Chris King, but that is not going to happen.

  2. #2
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    Just found a Shimano FH-M430 black one that was removed from a new wheel and looks good too. 32h, 135 spacing. i guess I am inclined to go with one of the new ones (including this one) rather than get something that might need to be serviced, unless one of the old ones is the shizzle.

  3. #3
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    ^ you should probably repack any new cup&cone hub that you get. They're almost never set up properly, unless you really really trust the source.

    And it depends how cheap you're looking for, but the newish SLX hub (FH-M665 or 675) is pretty cheap and uses shimano's high-poe freehub. It's centerlock, but that won't make a difference if you're using v's.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by newfangled View Post
    ^ you should probably repack any new cup&cone hub that you get. They're almost never set up properly, unless you really really trust the source.

    And it depends how cheap you're looking for, but the newish SLX hub (FH-M665 or 675) is pretty cheap and uses shimano's high-poe freehub. It's centerlock, but that won't make a difference if you're using v's.

    I spoke to a nice guy at Bikesmiths to see if I could find a decent enough wheel for decent money that he had. no go. the 135mm thing is the killer, and to get 135mm in in a stock wheel, I would have to basically get a big wide commuter wheel. With the cheap m-series bottom of the barrel shimano type hub. We discussed hubs and the various levels and I decided I would go at least Deore which has better seals or look at the LX/SLX options per his suggestion as long as I am doing it. Glad to see you agree.

    question, so what does centerlock mean? I am using V's (may try out my old canti's for fun some day I guess) so I guess it does not matter. But just curious.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by newfangled View Post
    And it depends how cheap you're looking for, but the newish SLX hub (FH-M665 or 675) is pretty cheap and uses shimano's high-poe freehub.
    There is a T610 on Amazon that is not too much. Have you heard of those?
    Amazon.com : Shimano Deore T610 32h Rear Hub Black : Bike Hubs : Sports & Outdoors

  6. #6
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    ^^^ and never mind. I figured out what center lock is.

  7. #7
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    Yeah, centerlock is only important if you're running discs.

    I think SLX would probably have slightly better seals than the Deore, but the main selling point is the higher engagement freehub. I've got it on one bike, and it is nice, but it also hasn't changed my world (I was worried that I would love it so much, and would have to rebuild my other bike with one too). It's only $10 more than the Deore, but for a commuter you probably don't need/won't notice it.

    (but I'm not an expert)

  8. #8
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    Just curious, what do you notice, practically, on the bike you are speaking of, from the higher engagement free hub?

    I was chatting with the bike shop guy and he said the SLX might be a tiny bit lighter, and a bit stiffer, but not too big a deal. And I have to save up to replace my mountain bike, so I guess 10 bucks is 10 bucks. I am trying to be disciplined in saving for that project, i.e., if I save 5 bucks in gas due to bike commuting, try to save that in the bike fund if my family can afford it rather than spend it on a beer or a latte, or any other transient pleasure.

    Thanks for the assist again on my project!

  9. #9
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    There's just less delay in pedaling. Backpedal a bit, and then pedal forward, and it catches almost instantly: apparently 10deg, instead of the standard 20(?), but still not as quick as some of the fancier hubs or trials hubs. It is useful on the trails, and it's kindof cool, but it's not earth-shattering.

  10. #10
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    My M675 SLX hub (centerlock) sucks. The freehub unit has high POE but it is so bad. I go through a freehub approx every 4000 miles. They are $20-25 each on a $45 hub. I have issues with the pawls shattering. Even brand new the last 2 freehubs made horrific snapping and popping noises when transitioning from pedal-coast-pedal. Not only do I not recommend them, but I wouldn't give the wheel for free to a friend. It is that bad.

    I was stranded once offroad on the slope of a mountain with no reception and way out. The pawls shattered climbing an 18% grade and the freehub totally locked up. I had to remove the chain and coast down the mountain. Luckily a kind mountain biker gave me a life home in his SAG-esque vehicle.

    Oh, and good luck getting Shimano to warranty to the piece.

  11. #11
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    ^ I knew there were lots of issues when the hub first came out, but it seemed like complaints had tapered off after the first bad batch? I haven't had any issues with mine (but I've only been using it since april), but in the back of my head there's always been the worry about that.

  12. #12
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    I am thinking I am going with just the Deore FH-M590. The difference between that one and the FH-T610 appears to be only that the 590 is an 8/9 speed and the 610 is a 9/10 speed. As I am using a 7 speed cassette, and a spacer to make it fit properly on the hub, the 590 is the correct one. Other than that, based on the technical diagrams, they are identical.

  13. #13
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    Both the FH-T610 and FH-M590 should be able to handle 8, 9, or 10 sprocket cassettes, and 7-speed with the appropriate spacer.

    I built a wheel with an FH-M590 hub in January 2014. I replaced the QR axle with a solid Wheels MFG ChroMoly axle. I use a solid axle to avoid bearing clearance changes when the axles are tightened. The bearing clearance was carefully adjusted. I packed the hub with Redline CV-2 Synthetic Moly grease. I ride with 4 panniers, and carry very heavy loads, sometimes riding off road. I rode this hub through the remainder of the 2014 Minnesota winter with salt and sand on the road. The seals seemed to work well and the grease did not appear to be contaminated. No problems with the freehub.

    However, I just rebuilt the hub and discovered a pitted cone. This makes me question the quality of the cones in the FH-M590.

    Also, the spoke holes in the axle flanges are way oversized measuring 2.64 mm. I needed to use 0.50 mm thick brass spoke head washers on the non-drive side. The J-bends of the spokes seemed tight against the hub flange on the drive side so I didn't use spoke washers on that side.

    I was considering a quicker engaging hub, but if reliability is the trade off I'll just stick with a slower engaging freehub.

    Scott Novak

  14. #14
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    I never knew what a good hub was until I went mountain biking one night with a group. My then wife was out of town, so I "borrowed" the rear wheel from her bike and threw it on mine just to see. I think I had some Mavic Crossmax on there, and she had a Mavic rim with a Chris King hub. The difference is night and day when it comes to engagement. I could not believe how quick it was, almost too quick if that is possible. It would engage instantly from a coast. The next bike I bought came with a set of Hope Pro II's which were just as quick but far noisier when coasting. I grew to love that sound honestly. A bell? Who needs a bell when you can make your presence known just by not pedaling.
    The pedals turn, not just the left one, but the right one too.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by TenSpeed View Post
    I never knew what a good hub was until I went mountain biking one night with a group. My then wife was out of town, so I "borrowed" the rear wheel from her bike and threw it on mine just to see. I think I had some Mavic Crossmax on there, and she had a Mavic rim with a Chris King hub. The difference is night and day when it comes to engagement. I could not believe how quick it was, almost too quick if that is possible. It would engage instantly from a coast. The next bike I bought came with a set of Hope Pro II's which were just as quick but far noisier when coasting. I grew to love that sound honestly. A bell? Who needs a bell when you can make your presence known just by not pedaling.
    Now that I know this for myself, I could not agree more. It's amazing the difference a hub makes and that Bee sound just makes you go faster. I've not tried the King's, but the Hopes are mighty nice.
    I don't know why,... it's just MUSS easier to pedal than the other ones.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scott Novak View Post
    However, I just rebuilt the hub and discovered a pitted cone. This makes me question the quality of the cones in the FH-M590.

    I was considering a quicker engaging hub, but if reliability is the trade off I'll just stick with a slower engaging freehub.

    Scott Novak
    I've been using Shimano hubs for years, both the Deore series and the XT series. I always believed them to be a bargain for the price and durability was never an issue, though they can be weighty. I also exposed them to the MN winter like yourself. Now, however, both my main rides have hubs with cartridge bearings and I think it's a definite improvement.
    I don't know why,... it's just MUSS easier to pedal than the other ones.

  17. #17
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    I bought an FH-T610 and already had an FH-M590 hub. They are nearly identical.

    The OLD (Over Locknut Dimension) on both hubs is 135 mm. The spacing between the flanges is identical within my measuring capabilities. Likewise the flange thickness is identical. The spoke hole circle diameter is identical. They even use the same oversized 2.64 mm diameter spoke holes. The seals have the same part number as do the cones and spacers. The freehub bodies show different part numbers on the assembly diagrams, but physically they have the same dimensions and are interchangeable. The washers under the freehub bodies are the same thickness. Both freehub bodies have 16 POE (Points Of Engagement) with 22.5 between clicks. Both hubs will accept an 8, 9, or 10 Speed cassette.

    The only difference that I can see is that the body between the flanges is ever so slightly different shaped.

    Does anyone know of any other differences between these freehubs?

    The freehub bodies on all of the following freehubs should be interchangeable. Also, they should be able to accept a 32 POE Freehub used on newer FH-M529 and FH-M615 hubs if we can figure out what part number to order.

    FH-M529
    FH-M590
    FH-M595
    FH-M615
    FH-T610
    FH-T660

    High POE Shimano Freehub Upgrade?
    http://forums.mtbr.com/wheels-tires/...de-944374.html

    Scott Novak

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