Nashbar Cross Bike Confusion Reins (rains)- Mtbr.com
Results 1 to 25 of 25
  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    202

    Nashbar Cross Bike Confusion Reins (rains)

    I finally listened to Commuterboy and ordered a Nashbar frame. I took delivery of my new frame yesterday and installed the crankset. It looks like it truly will not take something larger than a 48T even though I had heard differently. Then I grab a road wheel to try it in the rear and, guess what, too short. My MTB wheel fits like a charm though. Did Nashbar go and change the specs again without notifying us?

  2. #2
    I got nothin'
    Reputation: hydrogeek's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    739
    ???? I bought and built a Nashbar X earlier this year. I can fit a 53 tooth chainring on mine with an external bearing crankset. The rear end is spaced at 130mm for a road hub. Sounds like Nashbar has made some spec changes.
    I ride at ludicrous speed

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    202
    The crank is Shimano 10 speed external bearing and the chain rings hit the stays. I am going to taje it to a shop tomorrow to see if I can get a 50 on it.

  4. #4
    weirdo
    Reputation: rodar y rodar's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    6,223
    The reign of Spain falls mainly to Juan Carlos. Or does it fall to Hugo? ¿Porque no me callo?

    Yeah, that`s weird. I wonder if they keep buying whatever frames are on hand that would otherwise be labeled as Crosschecks or Jakes or what have you and every new batch has new specs?
    Recalculating....

  5. #5
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    202
    My rain bike plans are dissolving...

  6. #6
    weirdo
    Reputation: rodar y rodar's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    6,223
    Quote Originally Posted by Maximus_XXIV
    My rain bike plans are dissolving...
    Why? You might still be able to squeeze a 50t ring in there by playing with the BB or maybe even with a longer BB. If not, the difference from 48t to 50t isn`t all that much. And you can always respace the rear axle an extra couple mms per side if the wheel you want to use if a little too narrow.
    Recalculating....

  7. #7
    Moderator Moderator
    Reputation: mtbxplorer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    7,716
    Whoa, no reins?? How are you supposed to steer or stop the thing?

  8. #8
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    202
    I know, I missed the g...

    The 50t is already small, I did not really want to go to a 48t. With that logic, a 46t is only a little smaller than a 48t...

    I am not sure you can extend the new Shimano cranks because of the way they are made and I broke the 7700 version that I had and am not sue I still have the others I retired. The 7700s seemed to pit easily which I think contributed to breaking. I also would like a good crank. I have a muscular build and tend to push bigger gears than most.

    I will take it into the shop to see if a 50t will work.

    Do I need a new crank for a 50t or can I just replace the 53t? I have never looked into the spacing of the smaller rings.

    I will see what the

  9. #9
    I got nothin'
    Reputation: hydrogeek's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    739
    You might be able to get a 50t chainring on your crankset, but I think all of the 50t and smaller rings are made for compact cranksets. If your LBS is worth is salt then they should be able to hook you up.

    If you use a square taper or an older octalink bb for a 73mm width, you can put a spacer on the drive side to move things over.
    I ride at ludicrous speed

  10. #10
    weirdo
    Reputation: rodar y rodar's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    6,223
    Yeah, you`re right Maximus- a few teeth less, then a few more less, little by little the main idea starts to drift into compromise.

    Not the cranks themselves, I don`t think there`s anything you can do there. But doesn`t Shimano make longer spindled BBs for your model?

    As a last (pricey) resort, you could build a new rear wheel with a Capreo hub. The only stock cassette for it is 9-26, but a few aftermarket sellers on the `bent forums build and sell Capreo clusters in other configurations. Out of curiosity, whacha planning to do with such tall gears?
    Recalculating....

  11. #11
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    202
    I am a big guy with huge legs and I find it is easier to ride bigger gears than to spin. Kind of like Ulrich to Armstrong years ago.

    This bike is a commuter so that is why I was thinking a smaller ring would work out. I really do not need to carry much and until moving to San Fran I always commuted on a road bike with skinny tires and such. This is my first foray into fenders and smaller gearing.

  12. #12
    mtbr member
    Reputation: kvojr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    262
    Quote Originally Posted by Maximus_XXIV
    I finally listened to Commuterboy and ordered a Nashbar frame. I took delivery of my new frame yesterday and installed the crankset. It looks like it truly will not take something larger than a 48T even though I had heard differently. Then I grab a road wheel to try it in the rear and, guess what, too short. My MTB wheel fits like a charm though. Did Nashbar go and change the specs again without notifying us?
    Sounds like they shipped the wrong frame to me???
    1993 Barracuda A2R - 1x7 Beater
    2007 Redline Monocog 29er

  13. #13
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    363
    Can you post pics? I have a 50-39-30 crank on my Nashbar Cross frame and everything fits nicely. I have MTB rims on the back, but I had to squeeze them in. I've ridden well over 1,000 miles on my bike and I haven't had any issues.
    ↑ ↑ ↓ ↓ ← → ← → В А

  14. #14
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    202
    I am pretty sure it is the same frame as I have seen in the pictures. It seems the specs changed back to what they were shipping a year or so ago.

    I went to a local shop here and they had a 50-39-30 crank that I could use and they also though the might be able to get a Sram compact on it. Either way, I am more comfortable with this frame than I was previously.

    The 135mm rear spacing will make it much easier to find hubs. I am using the new reflective Velocity Dyad rims for both front and rear so we will see how those go. We get quite a bit of fog here so I am hoping these will help with visibility along with my 2 MS rear lights.

  15. #15
    Glorified Hybrid Owner
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Posts
    1,091
    Quote Originally Posted by Maximus_XXIV
    The crank is Shimano 10 speed external bearing and the chain rings hit the stays. I am going to taje it to a shop tomorrow to see if I can get a 50 on it.
    You can get a few spacers from a Hollowtech II mtb crank (any bb spacer should work, actually) and move the entire crank towards the drive side a bit.

    I've seen a Niner 29er run a HT-II Dura-Ace triple with a few spacers.

  16. #16
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    202
    How much can it be moved? The crank looks like it does not have too much overlap and I do not want to cause any issues where I may break it.

  17. #17
    mtbr member
    Reputation: MMcG's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Posts
    9,592
    this brings this frame back into play for me actually. Might have to make a call to Nashbar to see if their current stock are all 132.5 or 135mm rear spacing.

  18. #18
    Fat-tired Roadie
    Reputation: AndrwSwitch's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    18,453
    Quote Originally Posted by rockhound
    You can get a few spacers from a Hollowtech II mtb crank (any bb spacer should work, actually) and move the entire crank towards the drive side a bit.

    I've seen a Niner 29er run a HT-II Dura-Ace triple with a few spacers.
    I'd be pretty nervous about doing this. The spindle should be fine, but a big guy who likes to mash large gears might kill an aluminum crank arm without adequate overlap in the interface.

    Is it a double or triple crank? Triples locate the big ring slightly further out, so that might buy you the clearance. Or just use a three-piece crank.
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

  19. #19
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    8
    Just an FYI for anyone out there interested in this frame:

    Nashbar has the frame listed for $114.99 plus a 20% off code of "THANKS1" for orders over $75. Promo expires 8/31.

    Just ordered mine for a cyclo/commuter build.

  20. #20
    Bedwards Of The West
    Reputation: CommuterBoy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    5,451
    Quote Originally Posted by Maximus_XXIV
    I finally listened to Commuterboy

    Just noticed this thread.

    If they have gone back to the specs they used to have (like mine), that's a good thing in terms of wheel/hub prices. Mine is 135mm spacing in the rear, but I still always ran it with a compact double 50/36 with no clearance issues. Could have used a 53 easily.
    You have no excuse for driving to work
    (unless you don't have studded tires)
    (no excuse for that either)

  21. #21
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    202
    I tried to put a DA 7800 crank on it and the 53 hit the stay. This is a hybrid of the old one with 135mm and wider chain stays. I get my wheels this weekend. I should build it in the next few weeks.

    I put a triple FSA crank on it with a 50 big ring. I also ordered a Lynskey so i will only use this when I need a rear rack or when the chance of rain is pretty high.

  22. #22
    Bedwards Of The West
    Reputation: CommuterBoy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    5,451
    I wonder if you can fit a fatter tire than I could? That would be nice... I couldn't go bigger than 1.5 or so...
    You have no excuse for driving to work
    (unless you don't have studded tires)
    (no excuse for that either)

  23. #23
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    202
    I do not have any fat tires. I will see what it is like when I get my wheels.

  24. #24
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    8
    Got my frame today. First thing I did was grab my calipers. 135mm on the rear dropout.

    Was hoping to use road wheels, expecting 130mm. Not sure what to do at this point...

    Guess I'll call Nashbar on Monday and see what they say. The web site definitely states 130 in the specs...

  25. #25
    Fat-tired Roadie
    Reputation: AndrwSwitch's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    18,453
    135mm hubs are really common, and they're not all disc hubs. I'm not sure which lines are available, but Shimano still makes several of their MTB rear hubs available in non-disc models. (Did you want to do a disc or a non-disc build? If you want to do disc anyway, this makes it easier, not harder.)

    For a pre-made wheel, I know BWW does several of their wheels as road rims on MTB hubs. I think they're listed as "comfort" or "hybrid" or something, but the options do include nice rims and hubs.

    Anyway, as long as you haven't already ordered your wheels, this is really not a big deal.
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

Members who have read this thread: 0

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

THE SITE

ABOUT MTBR

VISIT US AT

© Copyright 2020 VerticalScope Inc. All rights reserved.